Thank you!! This fixed my knockoff lightning otf not closing properly. I shaved off the corner of the bottom of the blade and now it retracts to perfection!!
Had a similar problem with a knockoff microtech OTF mine didn’t lock up in both open and closed positions so I took mine apart and realign the slide/ switch actuator with the lock springs and oiled the the lock springs along with the blade and switch actuator Once oiled up I assembled the OTF and tested it and found that it fixed the problem from what I found is that as long as the switch actuator is aligned properly to the lock spring plates it should work well after being oiled up with rem oil. Hope this info helps others.
I fixed my issue with my blade not locking open after employment by doing the following. For my issue it was not the spring instead it was a worn edge at the bottom of the blades tang. All I did using a old coarse sharpening stone (file would work as well) was to re-flatten the small area where the locking mechanism would rest upon. Better then new as I had just gotten this OTF and after a dozen or so operations it started to fail, poor quality control I guess or it was a Friday night end of shift production,lol..Now I am happy and have a good but cheap semi reliable $30 OTF. Was going to return it but, decided to keep and try to repair and learn something, glad I did..
LeRoi Price - 10+Hrs later and still performing well with not one misfire. Working on my sharpening skills now. Also plan on adding a DIY epoxy resin inlay with a blue turquoise look on both sides of the handle, may end up looking like a middle of the road OTF when I'm done, or not Lol.
I bought a Cheapy Mini OTF and love it, I am having the problem you seem to of had, (Not opening fully when launched) and will be trying to the same. Also just ordered another OTF (Clone of a different model) to use as a "beater work knife" :D
Cowboy Spade - It's a easy quick fix once I figured out it was not a spring issue. Just have to file slightly to give more of a flat area for the locking mechanism to catch the back end of the tang.
Barnson Sorry I took so long. I also posted to your question on the other video. The gates are scratching on the tang, not the cutting edge. They are pushed against the flat tang by weak springs. Now you pose an interesting question---will these latches wear out from this constant friction? It sure is possible. But it is likely? I would say, guessing, not likely, because the compression springs a weak. With a poorly lubricated knife or a well lubricated knife I feel something else would go first. But I don't know what. So aside from breaking a vulnerable spring, the latches could be the weak points. Scratching would cause wear. Thanks
I had a curiosity as to why there OTF's malfunction (since so many of these cheap knives do) and did an investigation as to the reason. It could be numerous causes since the mechanism requires numerous parts. But my research was for malfunctions sort of in the acute phase since I had about 60 knives that were new. These were "returns" to the distributor. I haven't looked at any old knives of this sort. But you are correct. The spring latches, sometimes called gates, can wear out. If memory serves I did find at least one knife to malfunction due to the spring latch itself. But that was due to the spring breaking or somehow falling out. It is a fascinating mechanism, for several reasons. I made a video on investigating a broken knife. I should repeat a video on all the things that could go wrong, what the symptoms are, and potential fixes if there are any. For me, that would be a fun video to do.
i really need help i have a nato military otf i cant remember what one but i think the spring has messed up on it because when ever i use the switch it doesnt fling open the actual blade its self is stuck in the case it breaks my heart that its broken because my uncle gave me it to add to my knife collection if anyone knows how i could fix this please tell me how
I guess it's about time I did a video on the nato auto. I'll get to it. It is in Book Two BTW. I would like for you to send it to me (and I could make a RUclips video out of fixing it) but there are weird knife laws concerning autos in the mail in some states.
Check out the video: "Some "dirty knife talk" and Switchblade quirks in the DA-OTF and bit on DUAL ACTION automatic knife". That problem, in that particular situation, was the tiny catch spring. But there could be other but more rare causes. I have considered using a piece of a ball point pen spring to replace the tiny spring but I never had tried that. I might do a video on trying that. I do not recommend working on knives. It could be dangerous. I will try to do more video on these OTF problems.
I have an issue with mine where it won’t open completely. It shoots out but it’s like it doesn’t catch, I have to pull it out manually for it to catch. It closes just fine, but won’t open properly.
Do not work on knives, it is dangerous! Could be binding but that is less likely unless the knife is old or damaged. If it is locked in the open position more common is the front catch is not releasing the blade. If the top thumb button slides freely then the ramp on the actuator (slide carriage) is not flipping the front catch lateral away from the blade causing not to not disengage from it's hold on the blade. This happens but is a rather rare problem. Are you sure the main (actuating) spring is not broken? I got a more recent video on some auto problems that might help. You could email or post some pictures. I'll work it ....because....the truth is, I like this stuff. Good luck with that and be safe.
Ever get this issue figured out? It would be nice to have a fully functional version and compare the actions....It almost seems like theres a weak return spring or something is binding or causing friction on the return....Great channel mate, just found it today
Yeah, good point. The spring force is too weak to lock up the knife. So the first thought goes to "too weak spring" naturally. So I did a "work around" where I shortened the distance. Less force needed. Momentum is a issue. I did what I could with what I had. But you know if you open most new model knives they are full of oil, and grease. Like the "dual action" types. These double action OTF are dry. I never tried oil. But think about it. The spring could too weak due in part to friction. But the parts are loose. I think loose to avoid friction. I plan to get back to these. I've got about 25 of them and want to do a study of why they malfunction, strong and weak points. Perhaps sanding and buffing the parts would reduce friction.
LeRoi Price All seem like great starting points to come up with a solution. I have never seen an OTF opened up until this video. This might be completely wrong but I wonder if sanding or cutting down one the wings of the tang would throw the blade off of center and cause more issues on deployment. It seems like its right before the point of getting enough force to engage the lock... What is the function of the pin at the bottom of the tang? Alignment? Stopping overtravel? Maybe a tweak or lube of that pin location could give it just enough
You know the more I study these things it seems like what I did should not have worked. But it did. You are right, I think, it all comes down to the spring being too weak. If we were to sand and buff the sides of the tang to provide for less friction there could make it loose and have blade wiggle. By moving the side notch back where the spring-catch catches and moving the end notch forward, where the spring touches, it makes the blade need less travel distance to reach it's lock-up point, it needs to travel less distance. This compensates for the spring weakness. With a well made Mirotech knife the friction issues are less and they likely use a strong enough spring. These Chinese knives seem to have manufacturing issues. Sometimes a little tweaking can fix this stuff. I'm just glade to get a complex but cheap knife to have fun with. And if they break it is a challenge to see why. Keep them well oiled and that might help them from malfunction.
Stuck? It must be the actuator. Sounds like it won't unlock the blade. I'll try to get another video together to address some of these issues. That is an uncommon problem. If the actuator is chewed up the fix won't be easy.
Please help me! Im having the most common otf "problem" loose blade ( as in freely moving in and out ) and loose button ( as in sliding up and down without resisting ) so the usual fix is pulling the blade so the springs lock it in again. But that doesnt work! I have no idea what to do!
Let us know, does the blade lock-up when you pull it out? If it does lock then your spring could be too weak. First try a little oil. If not I would think the spring is broken or one of the hooks on the end of the spring is broken. The video's show the most common malfunctions.
@@leroiprice1586 if i pull the blade it does get stuck when the button is all the way up but the button will slide down on its own anyways because thats loose too. And if i were to put oil in, where? Will i have to open up the knife too?
@@ShiningEevee Well Cap, sure sounds like either a broken spring or a broken blade hook that attaches the spring to the blade. (Actually the blade hooks attach the spring to the slide carriage "actuator" and the blade both). There will be constant spring force biasing the button, always, but force increases as you slide it and pull more and more on the spring. The springs typically break right at their ends....so......they might be therefore reattached without having to find a new spring. So get a professional to look at it ...as I don't advise working on knives due to the danger.
You can buy a Chinese knock-off for probably less for the whole knife than what the springs cost. The China knives copy-cat the Microtech very closely but I doubt all the parts are exchangeable. The spring should fit. There are places that sell spring stock, and you would have to cut it and shape hooks on both ends. If you have a genuine Microtech they have a good warranty.
Don't put grease in the blade guide.It gums up the back blade catch.My Microtech combat troodon wasn't retracting due to the back blade catch sticking.A drop of light oil on that spring and catch stopped the blade from jumping back out.
i have a Chinese microtec knockoff with a different issue. when i try to open the knife it does not come out all the way and click unless i pull it ut. do i need a new spring?
For legal reasons I can offer no advice, sorry. But somebody else once told somebody else: To try this, and be carefull, don't put an eye out. This stuff is dangerous! So I don't recommend it. Find a safe area. With the blade unlocked (in the "travel" position) have the blade as far inside as it will go without being locked. Flick the knife so the blade flies forward. If it locks , easily, try some oil? You see what I did on the video. Mail it to me so I can fix it, or break it? I love to play with this stuff. But I can't mail it back if you live in like ....California! Bring it to the next Blade Show and I'll bring my Dremel and screw drivers. You see how I investigated the problems with this OTF and how I fixed them. Sounds like your knife is doing the same thing about not locking. Take a look at what I was explaining on the function,... and safety. I always store the knives in the travel position to keep the spring strong. (If you really want I will do a video on a malfunction of not locking open, it's just that I've been so busy lately)
hey I was studying the otf mechanism in the past time but im stil not sure about one thing. are the little doors that hold the blade in place scratching lightly on the blade when its comming out? if not what prevents them from doing so thx for answering
Any field has it's jargon. Even knife collecting. OTF stands for Out The Front. Any knife that has the blade come out of the front could be called an OTF. This may by where the blade is slid out manually, but often means the blade is shot out by a spring. The most common knife mechanism is where the blade is on a pivot and is rotated out of the bottom. There is another mechanism where the blade is rotated out sideways. Like the Schrade Viper. The OTF mechanism is not a very practical mechanism for a utility knife when it uses a spring. That's because the parts are complicated, as the video shows. But a button can be used to eject and retract the blade. That is called a "double action" mechanism. And so the knife is called a DAOTF for short. If the blade only flies to open that is a single action. Then the blade must be retracted manually. And it's not called a SAOTF. It's just called a single action. What a "One touch ferda" is I don't know. Where did you hear that?
These have 6 screws. I think they took a common 1/16 allen. (Allen can come in metric also, so look out for that.) Many knives use TORX, but these I think didn't. What I do is buy a kit of many exchangeable tips that fit into a handle. I just keep trying different tips until I find one that works. These kits are on ebay and Harbor Freight, etc. But caution, these Chinese knives can have some "screwy" screws. I guess they are cheaply made and the sockets are loose-fit and strip out sometimes. Then you have to drill out the screw to get the knife apart. That can ruin a knife. Some better knives have "Locktight" so you need a soldering iron to loosen them. These switchblades didn't use thread-locker. So...don't take apart knives, because it can be dangerous, and you can ruin your knife, ......and all that. But good luck Mathew.
For sure. The thing I love about these Chinese knock-offs is they are cheap and expendable. So if they work, fine. If not, I enjoy looking inside to find out what went wrong.
@@johndavis8684 OK, you say it doesn't lock open but it unlocks by simply pushing in cardboard. Does it "weakly" lock open, so weak that if you push the tip of the blade forward into cardboard the lock slips loose?
@@johndavis8684 OK, here is what I would do but for liability reasons I do not recommend that anyone else does. It could be dangerous and cause blindness and injury! So if when it locks weakly in the open position just to confirm things I would carefully (wear a thick glove and eye protection) gently pull the blade out toward the front to see if that causes it to lock up stronger. And then, while having a forward traction on the blade, I'd shake the knife and see if that affected the lock's weak hold. (A loose latch could fall into place rather that being pushed into place by a spring) It sounds like the tiny spring behind the latch (I call a "flap valve" and some call it a "gate") is either broken, slipped out of place, or is too weak to pivot the latch into the notch in the blade. Otherwise the notch-latch geometry may be improper and the latch can't fully pivot into the notch to get a good lock up. (You can see how I tweaked the geometry in the video'.) And also as my video shows the propulsion "kick" spring may be too weak to fly the blade strong enough forward to get past the latch so that it will pivot fully into the notch. I covered most of this stuff in my videos. I might need to do another one. These OTF's are fun little machines but they are complex and the Chinese make them in different factories. Some factories don't seem to do as well as others. I would offer to try and fix it for you but there are weird state laws on mailing switchblades that I would rather avoid. BTW I don't recall seeing one with a weak lock. Some would lock intermittently, but not then slip out of lock. Which leads to think there is a geometry problem or two problems, not just one. Possibly the broken spring and a lock that slips. Good luck with that. When, not soon, I get a chance, I'll come out with a more comprehensive video, especially for you and guys who have an interest. I'd like to do that. If you are a knife collector, look at the bright side. You have a unique knife. I love to collect broken knives, as well as the functional ones. It's all fun!
Well Ma'am, I apologise, sincerely. I was just shooten the bull with some of the automatic enthusiasts. But I am a friend to, and promote, women knifemakers. Please refer to my video "Gail Lunn, knife maker" , "Sghembo by Maserin", "Joyce Laituri Spyderco", "Sante fe Stone works" and others. Thanks.
I have an issue with mine where it won’t open completely. It shoots out but it’s like it doesn’t catch, I have to pull it out manually for it to catch. It closes just fine, but won’t open properly.
Well first off try some oil. The fact that it does catch when you pull it out suggests that the lock is working properly. Does it make a difference if the knife is pointed up or pointed down when you push the button forward? Weak springs work better with the help of gravity. You, very carefully, might try to flick your wrist slightly as you push the button. If this extra inertia allows the blade to lock up in the open position it would seen that the main spring is too weak. But the blade flies rearward and locks up? Make sure the knife is clean. Dirt and lint can slow the blade flight. be careful and good luck.
LeRoi Price how do u clean the blade to where it opens all the way? also if it’s a weak spring is there anyway i can fix that? any response would be appreciated
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you!! This fixed my knockoff lightning otf not closing properly. I shaved off the corner of the bottom of the blade and now it retracts to perfection!!
Good to hear it!
Helped me figure out what was wrong with mine, gift from my brother so I'm glad I figured it out
Had a similar problem with a knockoff microtech OTF mine didn’t lock up in both open and closed positions so I took mine apart and realign the slide/ switch actuator with the lock springs and oiled the the lock springs along with the blade and switch actuator Once oiled up I assembled the OTF and tested it and found that it fixed the problem from what I found is that as long as the switch actuator is aligned properly to the lock spring plates it should work well after being oiled up with rem oil. Hope this info helps others.
Thank you man. Helped me figure out how to fix mine.
I fixed my issue with my blade not locking open after employment by doing the following. For my issue it was not the spring instead it was a worn edge at the bottom of the blades tang. All I did using a old coarse sharpening stone (file would work as well) was to re-flatten the small area where the locking mechanism would rest upon. Better then new as I had just gotten this OTF and after a dozen or so operations it started to fail, poor quality control I guess or it was a Friday night end of shift production,lol..Now I am happy and have a good but cheap semi reliable $30 OTF. Was going to return it but, decided to keep and try to repair and learn something, glad I did..
Cool! That is what I like to do as well. It is practical sometimes, but fun and interesting most times, and you always learn something.
LeRoi Price - 10+Hrs later and still performing well with not one misfire. Working on my sharpening skills now. Also plan on adding a DIY epoxy resin inlay with a blue turquoise look on both sides of the handle, may end up looking like a middle of the road OTF when I'm done, or not Lol.
I bought a Cheapy Mini OTF and love it, I am having the problem you seem to of had, (Not opening fully when launched) and will be trying to the same. Also just ordered another OTF (Clone of a different model) to use as a "beater work knife" :D
Cowboy Spade - It's a easy quick fix once I figured out it was not a spring issue. Just have to file slightly to give more of a flat area for the locking mechanism to catch the back end of the tang.
appreciate the help :D Will be doing it today, but gave me a reason to order a new knife lol
Barnson Sorry I took so long. I also posted to your question on the other video. The gates are scratching on the tang, not the cutting edge. They are pushed against the flat tang by weak springs. Now you pose an interesting question---will these latches wear out from this constant friction? It sure is possible. But it is likely? I would say, guessing, not likely, because the compression springs a weak. With a poorly lubricated knife or a well lubricated knife I feel something else would go first. But I don't know what. So aside from breaking a vulnerable spring, the latches could be the weak points. Scratching would cause wear. Thanks
I had a curiosity as to why there OTF's malfunction (since so many of these cheap knives do) and did an investigation as to the reason. It could be numerous causes since the mechanism requires numerous parts. But my research was for malfunctions sort of in the acute phase since I had about 60 knives that were new. These were "returns" to the distributor. I haven't looked at any old knives of this sort. But you are correct. The spring latches, sometimes called gates, can wear out. If memory serves I did find at least one knife to malfunction due to the spring latch itself. But that was due to the spring breaking or somehow falling out. It is a fascinating mechanism, for several reasons. I made a video on investigating a broken knife. I should repeat a video on all the things that could go wrong, what the symptoms are, and potential fixes if there are any. For me, that would be a fun video to do.
i really need help i have a nato military otf i cant remember what one but i think the spring has messed up on it because when ever i use the switch it doesnt fling open the actual blade its self is stuck in the case it breaks my heart that its broken because my uncle gave me it to add to my knife collection if anyone knows how i could fix this please tell me how
I guess it's about time I did a video on the nato auto. I'll get to it. It is in Book Two BTW. I would like for you to send it to me (and I could make a RUclips video out of fixing it) but there are weird knife laws concerning autos in the mail in some states.
Big help thank you 🙏 I was able to fix my knife 🔪
Great!
I have the opposite problem we’re when I take the blade out it doesn’t catch what should i do
Check out the video: "Some "dirty knife talk" and Switchblade quirks in the DA-OTF and bit on DUAL ACTION automatic knife". That problem, in that particular situation, was the tiny catch spring. But there could be other but more rare causes. I have considered using a piece of a ball point pen spring to replace the tiny spring but I never had tried that. I might do a video on trying that. I do not recommend working on knives. It could be dangerous. I will try to do more video on these OTF problems.
I have an issue with mine where it won’t open completely. It shoots out but it’s like it doesn’t catch, I have to pull it out manually for it to catch. It closes just fine, but won’t open properly.
I have this same problem. Did you ever find a solution?
@@dannycwalters nope.. I end up giving it to a friend and he kept it.
@@ThatBaggedWK2 sorry to hear that. I have tried reaching out to the manufacturer and get nowhere with them. Left to figure it out this way.
Question. I have one that is locking out when deployed. Seems like it is binding on something. Any idea what it could be prior to taking it apart?
Do not work on knives, it is dangerous!
Could be binding but that is less likely unless the knife is old or damaged. If it is locked in the open position more common is the front catch is not releasing the blade. If the top thumb button slides freely then the ramp on the actuator (slide carriage) is not flipping the front catch lateral away from the blade causing not to not disengage from it's hold on the blade. This happens but is a rather rare problem. Are you sure the main (actuating) spring is not broken? I got a more recent video on some auto problems that might help. You could email or post some pictures. I'll work it ....because....the truth is, I like this stuff. Good luck with that and be safe.
@@leroiprice1586 would love to email. Would share?
*be willing to share
Ever get this issue figured out? It would be nice to have a fully functional version and compare the actions....It almost seems like theres a weak return spring or something is binding or causing friction on the return....Great channel mate, just found it today
Yeah, good point. The spring force is too weak to lock up the knife. So the first thought goes to "too weak spring" naturally. So I did a "work around" where I shortened the distance. Less force needed. Momentum is a issue. I did what I could with what I had. But you know if you open most new model knives they are full of oil, and grease. Like the "dual action" types. These double action OTF are dry. I never tried oil. But think about it. The spring could too weak due in part to friction. But the parts are loose. I think loose to avoid friction. I plan to get back to these. I've got about 25 of them and want to do a study of why they malfunction, strong and weak points. Perhaps sanding and buffing the parts would reduce friction.
LeRoi Price All seem like great starting points to come up with a solution. I have never seen an OTF opened up until this video. This might be completely wrong but I wonder if sanding or cutting down one the wings of the tang would throw the blade off of center and cause more issues on deployment. It seems like its right before the point of getting enough force to engage the lock... What is the function of the pin at the bottom of the tang? Alignment? Stopping overtravel? Maybe a tweak or lube of that pin location could give it just enough
Very interesting video either way
You know the more I study these things it seems like what I did should not have worked. But it did. You are right, I think, it all comes down to the spring being too weak. If we were to sand and buff the sides of the tang to provide for less friction there could make it loose and have blade wiggle. By moving the side notch back where the spring-catch catches and moving the end notch forward, where the spring touches, it makes the blade need less travel distance to reach it's lock-up point, it needs to travel less distance. This compensates for the spring weakness. With a well made Mirotech knife the friction issues are less and they likely use a strong enough spring. These Chinese knives seem to have manufacturing issues. Sometimes a little tweaking can fix this stuff. I'm just glade to get a complex but cheap knife to have fun with. And if they break it is a challenge to see why. Keep them well oiled and that might help them from malfunction.
LeRoi Price Right on. I feel the same way. I just like tinkering with things to see how they work
And ladies thank you very much! Lol Have a great day and thanks for the info!
The sear is worn .
I have the exact knife but my blade is stuck out I can’t get it to go in at all
Stuck? It must be the actuator. Sounds like it won't unlock the blade. I'll try to get another video together to address some of these issues. That is an uncommon problem. If the actuator is chewed up the fix won't be easy.
Please help me! Im having the most common otf "problem" loose blade ( as in freely moving in and out ) and loose button ( as in sliding up and down without resisting ) so the usual fix is pulling the blade so the springs lock it in again. But that doesnt work! I have no idea what to do!
Let us know, does the blade lock-up when you pull it out? If it does lock then your spring could be too weak. First try a little oil. If not I would think the spring is broken or one of the hooks on the end of the spring is broken. The video's show the most common malfunctions.
@@leroiprice1586 if i pull the blade it does get stuck when the button is all the way up but the button will slide down on its own anyways because thats loose too. And if i were to put oil in, where? Will i have to open up the knife too?
@@ShiningEevee Well Cap, sure sounds like either a broken spring or a broken blade hook that attaches the spring to the blade. (Actually the blade hooks attach the spring to the slide carriage "actuator" and the blade both). There will be constant spring force biasing the button, always, but force increases as you slide it and pull more and more on the spring. The springs typically break right at their ends....so......they might be therefore reattached without having to find a new spring. So get a professional to look at it ...as I don't advise working on knives due to the danger.
Any idea where to buy replacement springs for microtech OTF knives?
You can buy a Chinese knock-off for probably less for the whole knife than what the springs cost. The China knives copy-cat the Microtech very closely but I doubt all the parts are exchangeable. The spring should fit. There are places that sell spring stock, and you would have to cut it and shape hooks on both ends. If you have a genuine Microtech they have a good warranty.
E bay has them. Chinese ones come in 5 pack for a little over 5 bucks. I just found them
Don't put grease in the blade guide.It gums up the back blade catch.My Microtech combat troodon wasn't retracting due to the back blade catch sticking.A drop of light oil on that spring and catch stopped the blade from jumping back out.
I’ve seen a lot of videos about this problem but my blade is stuck all the way inside
Likely a broken spring or one of the blade hooks attached to the spring.
i have a Chinese microtec knockoff with a different issue. when i try to open the knife it does not come out all the way and click unless i pull it ut. do i need a new spring?
For legal reasons I can offer no advice, sorry. But somebody else once told somebody else: To try this, and be carefull, don't put an eye out. This stuff is dangerous! So I don't recommend it. Find a safe area. With the blade unlocked (in the "travel" position) have the blade as far inside as it will go without being locked. Flick the knife so the blade flies forward. If it locks , easily, try some oil? You see what I did on the video. Mail it to me so I can fix it, or break it? I love to play with this stuff. But I can't mail it back if you live in like ....California! Bring it to the next Blade Show and I'll bring my Dremel and screw drivers.
You see how I investigated the problems with this OTF and how I fixed them. Sounds like your knife is doing the same thing about not locking. Take a look at what I was explaining on the function,... and safety. I always store the knives in the travel position to keep the spring strong. (If you really want I will do a video on a malfunction of not locking open, it's just that I've been so busy lately)
@@leroiprice1586 thank you for your reply. That video will be very helpful. I may be able to try something.
hey I was studying the otf mechanism in the past time but im stil not sure about one thing. are the little doors that hold the blade in place scratching lightly on the blade when its comming out? if not what prevents them from doing so thx for answering
Thanks so much 🙏 saved me $150
The Lil 4 metal tabs w little springs maybe your issue..type of locking system..
OTF? One touch ferda? What does it mean? Thanks for your answers 🙋🏻♂️
Any field has it's jargon. Even knife collecting. OTF stands for Out The Front. Any knife that has the blade come out of the front could be called an OTF. This may by where the blade is slid out manually, but often means the blade is shot out by a spring. The most common knife mechanism is where the blade is on a pivot and is rotated out of the bottom. There is another mechanism where the blade is rotated out sideways. Like the Schrade Viper. The OTF mechanism is not a very practical mechanism for a utility knife when it uses a spring. That's because the parts are complicated, as the video shows. But a button can be used to eject and retract the blade. That is called a "double action" mechanism. And so the knife is called a DAOTF for short. If the blade only flies to open that is a single action. Then the blade must be retracted manually. And it's not called a SAOTF. It's just called a single action. What a "One touch ferda" is I don't know. Where did you hear that?
LeRoi Price Thanks again!
Very helpful, thank you.
Mines locks when both open and closed. But when I deploy and retract fast, the blade while retracting comes off track. What could the problem be?
Where Did you find the tool to open the knife?
These have 6 screws. I think they took a common 1/16 allen. (Allen can come in metric also, so look out for that.) Many knives use TORX, but these I think didn't. What I do is buy a kit of many exchangeable tips that fit into a handle. I just keep trying different tips until I find one that works. These kits are on ebay and Harbor Freight, etc. But caution, these Chinese knives can have some "screwy" screws. I guess they are cheaply made and the sockets are loose-fit and strip out sometimes. Then you have to drill out the screw to get the knife apart. That can ruin a knife. Some better knives have "Locktight" so you need a soldering iron to loosen them. These switchblades didn't use thread-locker. So...don't take apart knives, because it can be dangerous, and you can ruin your knife, ......and all that. But good luck Mathew.
Looks to me you might have a bad product to start with. Thanks
For sure. The thing I love about these Chinese knock-offs is they are cheap and expendable. So if they work, fine. If not, I enjoy looking inside to find out what went wrong.
LeRoi Price I bought mine from a veteran owned company and it had the exact problem, pretty upsetting considering the price I paid😵
My otf won't lock open how do I fix that?
Be careful. Spring loaded knives can be dangerous! Do you mean the blade flies out but doesn't lock? Or doesn't fly out at all?
@@leroiprice1586 it flies beautifully just doesn't lock open it unlocks by simply pushing in cardboard
@@johndavis8684 OK, you say it doesn't lock open but it unlocks by simply pushing in cardboard. Does it "weakly" lock open, so weak that if you push the tip of the blade forward into cardboard the lock slips loose?
@@leroiprice1586 yes it's weekly locked open. Also thanks for taking time to help. Means alot
@@johndavis8684 OK, here is what I would do but for liability reasons I do not recommend that anyone else does. It could be dangerous and cause blindness and injury! So if when it locks weakly in the open position just to confirm things I would carefully (wear a thick glove and eye protection) gently pull the blade out toward the front to see if that causes it to lock up stronger. And then, while having a forward traction on the blade, I'd shake the knife and see if that affected the lock's weak hold. (A loose latch could fall into place rather that being pushed into place by a spring) It sounds like the tiny spring behind the latch (I call a "flap valve" and some call it a "gate") is either broken, slipped out of place, or is too weak to pivot the latch into the notch in the blade. Otherwise the notch-latch geometry may be improper and the latch can't fully pivot into the notch to get a good lock up. (You can see how I tweaked the geometry in the video'.) And also as my video shows the propulsion "kick" spring may be too weak to fly the blade strong enough forward to get past the latch so that it will pivot fully into the notch. I covered most of this stuff in my videos. I might need to do another one.
These OTF's are fun little machines but they are complex and the Chinese make them in different factories. Some factories don't seem to do as well as others. I would offer to try and fix it for you but there are weird state laws on mailing switchblades that I would rather avoid. BTW I don't recall seeing one with a weak lock. Some would lock intermittently, but not then slip out of lock. Which leads to think there is a geometry problem or two problems, not just one. Possibly the broken spring and a lock that slips.
Good luck with that. When, not soon, I get a chance, I'll come out with a more comprehensive video, especially for you and guys who have an interest. I'd like to do that. If you are a knife collector, look at the bright side. You have a unique knife. I love to collect broken knives, as well as the functional ones. It's all fun!
This is what my knife does now after my dumb ass squirted gun grease in it. Lol
Gentlemen? Lol
Well Ma'am, I apologise, sincerely. I was just shooten the bull with some of the automatic enthusiasts. But I am a friend to, and promote, women knifemakers. Please refer to my video "Gail Lunn, knife maker" , "Sghembo by Maserin", "Joyce Laituri Spyderco", "Sante fe Stone works" and others. Thanks.
Totally unnecessary. Just hit the restart button.
I have an issue with mine where it won’t open completely. It shoots out but it’s like it doesn’t catch, I have to pull it out manually for it to catch. It closes just fine, but won’t open properly.
Well first off try some oil. The fact that it does catch when you pull it out suggests that the lock is working properly. Does it make a difference if the knife is pointed up or pointed down when you push the button forward? Weak springs work better with the help of gravity. You, very carefully, might try to flick your wrist slightly as you push the button. If this extra inertia allows the blade to lock up in the open position it would seen that the main spring is too weak. But the blade flies rearward and locks up? Make sure the knife is clean. Dirt and lint can slow the blade flight. be careful and good luck.
LeRoi Price how do u clean the blade to where it opens all the way? also if it’s a weak spring is there anyway i can fix that? any response would be appreciated