Beautiful job. One tip. You can preserve wood using antifreeze, ethylene glycol. It's excellent for preventing mold and insect damage. It does require a topcoat to seal it in.
As an amateur with woodworker, i typically feel overpowered with the entire arrangement ruclips.net/user/postUgkxrYREG3-7f1Aqk9ams3ZESRNzGnfdUtyQ . Be that as it may, this arrangements drove me through with much clarity and effortlessness woodplans. Works i now work like a genius. That is great!
Hi Keith Several years ago I made a pair of gates similar to these but I jointed it with mortise and tenons. In filled with shiplap boards, after about 18 months I noticed the joints coming apart, actually it was splitting and the panels buckling. The panels had swollen more than I’d thought and it was just pushing the uprights apart. I ended up taking the panels out, strengthening the joints and then over laying the gates with feather edge boards. Problem solved. Beware because those panels are so dry they might expand more than you think, fingers crossed they don’t. Great job 👍
Quick tips for anyone installing posts into ground from my experience - always use postsavers: they are attached by heating up the tar inside which protects the lower ground level parts from rotting. Post Crete is best choice for keeping it strong
I've been a builder for many years and have seen quite a fair bit of sheds. The plans in ryan's package ruclips.net/user/postUgkxB7IXYxLzb_Ichhe45zM3Im5xfEiSp9vB have some of the nicest looking sheds i've seen in a while.
Beautiful work...love it! Craftsmanship is underrated in this fast paced modern world. The most dangerous thing in this world is not A.I. it is men that have little or no practical skills.
That is a beautiful gate. Excellent construction. Do yourself a favor and build about 4' of fence on each side of those gate posts to help support them. Again... beautiful gate.
Your timing on this video is perfect for me, my next commission job is for a side entrance gate - I may nick the design and show them as the open top section looks great and a makes it look less 'woody'. Fantastic video too, thanks for sharing.
Lots of people think building a gate is pretty simple, but as you’ve shown you better understand structure and how wood behaves or your gate will soon become scrap. Nice work.
Nice work and so good to see someone getting the bracing correct!!. All I would say re treated timber from 40+ years experience treat every cut hole drill etc. Yes maybe time consuming but think of the timber, before any cuts or holes being in a bubble every time you brake that seal treat it and keeping doing it as it only needs one unprotected joint to allow the rot to get in and hope you also treated the shiplap all faces, as you did for the ends? before fixing. Sorry for long comment but hope it helps all and again good job.
I absolutely love the clear oil based treatments. Seem to protect the timber much longer than fence paint does. I use the brand Barrettine. Can’t fault the stuff. By the way those gates look great
Old engine oil for ever lasting, my father in law had a old 6 wheel long base transit that he yearly brushed engine oil to the arches seals under the body that would be prone to attack from the elements. He never had rust whatsoever. Its now owned by someone else and very sort after. Sorry for side tracking from wood but any old oil is the best treatment.
As a bespoke joiner I would recommend that anything exterior needs to have mortice and tenon joints and woulnt recommend that fizzy glue I would be using cascamite as I find it is a better glue but a great go at it
I make quite a few large double gates and I would always do a horn about and inch and a half on each style both top and bottom and I would also do a traditional stub tennon for the rails
Very nice build, well made. I've quit using polyurethane glue for it's short open time and the cleaning I have do after. Construction adhesive is strong enough if not stronger than poly glue, great for outdoor use and with long open time of use.
I built a gate sort of like this, but somewhat larger, about 25 years ago from Douglas fir. I put my frame together with steel truss plates on both sides, pounded in with a 16 pound sledge. I was very surprised at how rigid the frame was, including torsional twist, or lack thereof. It didn't sag a bit in the five years I lived there, but can't say how it held up over time.
Great project and nicely presented! There are two generic challenges for these kinds of projects: (1) Getting the right material and (2) having the proper tools ...
Your concrete not being a continuous pour to above grade will allow for water to sit between the first concrete pour and the second allowing water to sit on the wood posts below grade keeping them wet eventually rotting them off.
Are the 6x6 gate posts strong enough to support the gates? Heavy gates might flex the posts. Plus mother nature will rot the timber posts at the ground line in 5 to 10 years time. I'd put in mass concrete pillars to hang gates that size off.
@@RagnBoneBrown Gates look lovely, great job. I love the style of latch and hinges you fitted, they suit the gates perfectly. Good idea to fit the castor wheels. Fair play to the house owners for redoing the post foundation, some people wouldn't bother as it is hard work to clean off first concrete and dig a proper square (and big enough) post hole. So high praise for fixing it.
when doing half laps I find using a oscillating multitool tool is the fastest way to clean up the half laps. Then going on with chisel afterwards finish up. It's a much faster process.
Really good job there mate. I did a poundland version on a smaller scale a few years ago, and to echo the comments of others in here it was the posts that let me down in the end, though of course if that should ever happen to your project you can always detach the gates and redo the posts, so hardly fatal to the excellent gates you've built.
Used to use router for half laps like that. And, to show my age, I used tenons and mortices and pegs. All without mask - silly me - leading to splitting headache if timber was resin heavy pine - might as well have just used straight glue to sniff!
From years of experience gates that large need footings 1:1 deep. Otherwise they will start to pitch down in the centre. Especially in moist ground like in the uk. That said the bottom halves should be treated with pitch otherwise they will rot regardless of time we type
Hi Keith. I like the depth stop cut achieved using the mitre saw. That's a great fool proof method using spacers to position the gate middle rail. Oak shop made dominoes, brilliant. Those gates look really substantial and heavy to lift, rather you than me Keith lol. Tony
Looking good so far mate. Would've gone for a 175 rather than 150 post on a gate that size but you can always get a wheel on the gate to take some of the load. Been there with the black hands from that bloody glue! Soon learn.😁👍
Yeah, it's unfortunate that the posts can't be tied in to anything nearby as there are no walls or anything, but agree bigger posts would have been better!
Nice! I've made my gates last year, during first lockdown, I've also used some gravelboards, but as an infill on metal frame! Can't wait to see the final result on this one! Greetings from Mildenhall in Suffolk!
The gates look great, a real sturdy set. I had the same problem with shiplap recently, only wanted a few pieces to put on the shed. 1st world problems aye!
Very nice. There is something I dont understand: the way you fit that wood at 8:56, doesnt allow the wood to work while its always ´alive´. Why dont you get any problems with tension in this case?
Only thing I would have done differently is used eased edge timber for a smoother finish as you went to all that effort. However, perhaps you wanted the more rugged look. Great work.
Beautiful gate. I’m curious to see how you are going to set the posts. I know I would not want them touching any dirt in the ground so as to prevent any wood rot in years to come. Personally I would use steel posts for the strength and durability, but that’s just me.
Great work, Keith. Thanks for the tips about bracing. I wonder if you could expand on this in a future video for newbies like me? - Actually, forget that, just watched it again and think I get it now.👍🏼😬
I lost it at the bum censor. Was not expecting that 😂 Ah, yes "Don't ask me how I know"... my personal favorite slang for "I've absolutely made this mistake before" LOL. Gate looks good so far!
Love the gate design but im skeptical on the PU glue, and on gluing the infill panel in, please let us know how they fair up to seasonal changes because maybe I over engineer my gates haha
There seem to be two different approaches - either fix in one place in the centre and let it expand and contract naturally or glue and nail each in two places. I've done both, and whatever I do there's always someone pointing out I've done it wrong 🤣 anyway I copied Gid Joiner's method this time because he has far more experience than me at gates and exterior timber, so he knows better than me and if you watch his gate builds, he glues them in
@@RagnBoneBrown ahh, well I didn't say it was wrong, id just like a 6 months later video. The last gate I made like this design, I made my infill panel one piece and left it floating in a rebate. If your method works ok, I may try it myself next time, i hope it is ok! Love the channel by the way, been with you since 30k subs!
@@RagnBoneBrown last gates I did with infills I didn't glue the t&g boards. Just 18g pins. I set them in a groove at the ends instead of butting. What happened? The t&g boards expanded in winter and pushed the vertical stiles apart, opening the domino joins! I can't have left enough room between each t&g board.
In the next video, we’ll talk about how a 6 by 6 post won’t support a gate this heavy as the concrete base will move as the ground swells or cracks depending on the season!
I had a large gate at my last house supported by a 4x4x1/8" steel post sunk into the ground 4' w/ ~300 lbs of concrete in the hole. That gate never budged an inch. I would've used a wooden post if I could brace it to the next post over (there was only a single post available for the gate - post was against the side of the house). If you can, set two posts and tie them together with a steel cable with turnbuckle from the top of the gate post to the bottom of the next post over. If the post sags any, tighten up the turnbuckle to pull it back over.
Agreed, and if the found doesn’t move the posts will undoubtedly bend over time. They need bracing inline with the gates or a spring loaded support wheel at the bottom of each gate to relieve some of the load off the posts.
Beautiful job. One tip. You can preserve wood using antifreeze, ethylene glycol. It's excellent for preventing mold and insect damage. It does require a topcoat to seal it in.
As an amateur with woodworker, i typically feel overpowered with the entire arrangement ruclips.net/user/postUgkxrYREG3-7f1Aqk9ams3ZESRNzGnfdUtyQ . Be that as it may, this arrangements drove me through with much clarity and effortlessness woodplans. Works i now work like a genius. That is great!
Hi Keith
Several years ago I made a pair of gates similar to these but I jointed it with mortise and tenons. In filled with shiplap boards, after about 18 months I noticed the joints coming apart, actually it was splitting and the panels buckling. The panels had swollen more than I’d thought and it was just pushing the uprights apart. I ended up taking the panels out, strengthening the joints and then over laying the gates with feather edge boards. Problem solved. Beware because those panels are so dry they might expand more than you think, fingers crossed they don’t. Great job 👍
Blimey these are a proper set of gates.Great job so far.Looking forward to part 2.
Quick tips for anyone installing posts into ground from my experience - always use postsavers: they are attached by heating up the tar inside which protects the lower ground level parts from rotting. Post Crete is best choice for keeping it strong
This is one of those videos that you'd have no idea was so interesting until you watched. Good work sir!
Proper job. A small chamfer often aides in hiding small imperfections in the joinery or timber on outdoor projects.
I love watching your process and hearing your thought process for problem-solving.
I've been a builder for many years and have seen quite a fair bit of sheds. The plans in ryan's package ruclips.net/user/postUgkxB7IXYxLzb_Ichhe45zM3Im5xfEiSp9vB have some of the nicest looking sheds i've seen in a while.
Beautiful work...love it! Craftsmanship is underrated in this fast paced modern world. The most dangerous thing in this world is not A.I. it is men that have little or no practical skills.
They look pretty good so far. I'm looking forward to the next part.
That is a beautiful gate. Excellent construction. Do yourself a favor and build about 4' of fence on each side of those gate posts to help support them. Again... beautiful gate.
Your timing on this video is perfect for me, my next commission job is for a side entrance gate - I may nick the design and show them as the open top section looks great and a makes it look less 'woody'. Fantastic video too, thanks for sharing.
Cheers Alistair
Lots of people think building a gate is pretty simple, but as you’ve shown you better understand structure and how wood behaves or your gate will soon become scrap. Nice work.
Oh these will be scrap very soon!!
Thank you for showing the drawing to understand how to angle the supporting diagonal
Nice work and so good to see someone getting the bracing correct!!. All I would say re treated timber from 40+ years experience treat every cut hole drill etc. Yes maybe time consuming but think of the timber, before any cuts or holes being in a bubble every time you brake that seal treat it and keeping doing it as it only needs one unprotected joint to allow the rot to get in and hope you also treated the shiplap all faces, as you did for the ends? before fixing. Sorry for long comment but hope it helps all and again good job.
Yeah I showed treating them in the video
Ryan is a great chippy. Love his work and will be copying it for 2 large gates this summer 👍
I absolutely love the clear oil based treatments. Seem to protect the timber much longer than fence paint does. I use the brand Barrettine. Can’t fault the stuff. By the way those gates look great
Old engine oil for ever lasting, my father in law had a old 6 wheel long base transit that he yearly brushed engine oil to the arches seals under the body that would be prone to attack from the elements. He never had rust whatsoever. Its now owned by someone else and very sort after. Sorry for side tracking from wood but any old oil is the best treatment.
Dominos are such a time saver, one day I'll give in and buy the machine. I was close recently after cutting 24 mortise & tenon joints for a project.
As a bespoke joiner I would recommend that anything exterior needs to have mortice and tenon joints and woulnt recommend that fizzy glue I would be using cascamite as I find it is a better glue but a great go at it
Nice gates mate always amazes me how much mess half laps make with bits on floor. That was a right result with the treatment tub
Only just catching up with this; great job on the gates Keith, and glad the squares came in handy - square enough is all I've ever aspired to... 😆👍
Cheers Peter, me too 🤣
I make quite a few large double gates and I would always do a horn about and inch and a half on each style both top and bottom and I would also do a traditional stub tennon for the rails
Nice looking set of gates. Look forward to seeing them installed.
Very nice build, well made. I've quit using polyurethane glue for it's short open time and the cleaning I have do after. Construction adhesive is strong enough if not stronger than poly glue, great for outdoor use and with long open time of use.
Great, simple but very informative video. Thanks for making and posting it
I built a gate sort of like this, but somewhat larger, about 25 years ago from Douglas fir. I put my frame together with steel truss plates on both sides, pounded in with a 16 pound sledge. I was very surprised at how rigid the frame was, including torsional twist, or lack thereof. It didn't sag a bit in the five years I lived there, but can't say how it held up over time.
Great project and nicely presented!
There are two generic challenges for these kinds of projects: (1) Getting the right material and (2) having the proper tools ...
The important third (or first) is the skill to do it, nicely demonstrated here.
Looks awesome. Great tip, making those notch holders for gate so you can work on it upside down. Well done. Cant wait to see the rest.
You're a skilled man, great work!!! Gates are beauts
those are some really industrial gates! The hinges are going to have to be extra heavy duty! They'll last a lifetime! fantastic work.
Nice set of gates, should be good for a lot of years.
3:38 I use a small Handle ax and electric planer to get the cuts out when building pergolas 🤷🏿♂️
Brilliantly made, cheers from California.
Ear projection when vanishing, love it
looking forward to seeing the next video , it will undoubtedly become a solid gate , grtzz from Belgium !
Love the Design and wonderful video . So beautiful
Your concrete not being a continuous pour to above grade will allow for water to sit between the first concrete pour and the second allowing water to sit on the wood posts below grade keeping them wet eventually rotting them off.
Great looking gates, mate. Looking forward to part 2. All the best.
Those gates look super strong Keith. Great job and great video mate
Great job! Nice looking gates, and well explained. Thanks for sharing!
woow huge work! Looks already nice. Looking forward to seeing part 2
Doin a great job Keith, should look great when finished Stay Safe Mate !!!.
really wish I had seen this 6 months ago! Would have avoided me making a few schoolboy errors! Nice work
Good looking gates & nice work, but wow they do look heavy!
Are the 6x6 gate posts strong enough to support the gates? Heavy gates might flex the posts. Plus mother nature will rot the timber posts at the ground line in 5 to 10 years time. I'd put in mass concrete pillars to hang gates that size off.
ruclips.net/video/YKDvPc6rhz4/видео.html
@@RagnBoneBrown
Gates look lovely, great job. I love the style of latch and hinges you fitted, they suit the gates perfectly. Good idea to fit the castor wheels. Fair play to the house owners for redoing the post foundation, some people wouldn't bother as it is hard work to clean off first concrete and dig a proper square (and big enough) post hole. So high praise for fixing it.
when doing half laps I find using a oscillating multitool tool is the fastest way to clean up the half laps. Then going on with chisel afterwards finish up. It's a much faster process.
Gates look good with you on the glue same with the expanding foam all ways end up with black hands 👍
Really good job there mate. I did a poundland version on a smaller scale a few years ago, and to echo the comments of others in here it was the posts that let me down in the end, though of course if that should ever happen to your project you can always detach the gates and redo the posts, so hardly fatal to the excellent gates you've built.
Great work Keith 👍built to last. Look forward to seeing them finished 🙂👍
Used to use router for half laps like that. And, to show my age, I used tenons and mortices and pegs. All without mask - silly me - leading to splitting headache if timber was resin heavy pine - might as well have just used straight glue to sniff!
Large gates! This is gate installation heaven.
From years of experience gates that large need footings 1:1 deep. Otherwise they will start to pitch down in the centre. Especially in moist ground like in the uk.
That said the bottom halves should be treated with pitch otherwise they will rot regardless of time we type
nice work.......artist work...greetings from croatia
Great. Look forward to seeing them installed 👍
Loving the design on these heave duty gates!👌🏽
Looking forward to part two.
Awesome job, mate 👍🏽
Great looking gates. I think you have inspired me to build a small garden gate for my front garden.
Great 👌
Great looking set of gates them Keith. Well done!
Good looking gates! I’m surprised you didn’t dowel the corners? Would look very smart and help with the twist.
Hi Keith. I like the depth stop cut achieved using the mitre saw. That's a great fool proof method using spacers to position the gate
middle rail. Oak shop made dominoes, brilliant. Those gates look really substantial and heavy to lift, rather you than me Keith lol. Tony
Looking good so far mate. Would've gone for a 175 rather than 150 post on a gate that size but you can always get a wheel on the gate to take some of the load. Been there with the black hands from that bloody glue! Soon learn.😁👍
Yeah, it's unfortunate that the posts can't be tied in to anything nearby as there are no walls or anything, but agree bigger posts would have been better!
just built a gate. damn it. need to redo it. I do however have two connected 6x6 posts holding them. so there is that.
Keith, FYI, Sadolin Supadec is available in a several colours and is ideal for exterior joinery and especially suitable for rough sawn timber.
Nice! I've made my gates last year, during first lockdown, I've also used some gravelboards, but as an infill on metal frame! Can't wait to see the final result on this one! Greetings from Mildenhall in Suffolk!
Great work!!!! Very talented
really nice design Keith, looks sharp
This is beautiful work. Well done
Those look massive.
The gates look great, a real sturdy set. I had the same problem with shiplap recently, only wanted a few pieces to put on the shed. 1st world problems aye!
Cheers James
Very nice. There is something I dont understand: the way you fit that wood at 8:56, doesnt allow the wood to work while its always ´alive´. Why dont you get any problems with tension in this case?
Beautiful work bud
Absolutely beautiful job
Looking forward for the second part
Nice job. I'll give it a 10years top till you need to repeat. How about some 6x6 steel posts?
Nice, nice work, well done!
Quality work. Great job!
Look amazing. I have only ever built something 1/4 of the size.
Excellent work!
Now that's a solid gate
They look Great
Looks good Keith
Nice job Keith they look like good strong gates 👌
The door looks great 👏
Really great job
Amazing. Great job!
Only thing I would have done differently is used eased edge timber for a smoother finish as you went to all that effort. However, perhaps you wanted the more rugged look. Great work.
Nice looking gates
I like your little van!
It's on it's last legs unfortunately
Beautiful gate. I’m curious to see how you are going to set the posts. I know I would not want them touching any dirt in the ground so as to prevent any wood rot in years to come. Personally I would use steel posts for the strength and durability, but that’s just me.
Great work, Keith. Thanks for the tips about bracing. I wonder if you could expand on this in a future video for newbies like me? - Actually, forget that, just watched it again and think I get it now.👍🏼😬
Cheers Mandy 😀
Thank you for sharing your expertise
A couple of months,😂. I just needed to get started,😂. Too funny man.
Great video love the gates
I lost it at the bum censor. Was not expecting that 😂 Ah, yes "Don't ask me how I know"... my personal favorite slang for "I've absolutely made this mistake before" LOL. Gate looks good so far!
Great work! Can't wait for the next video!
Cracking build, the gates are looking great so far, shame about the lack of pressure treated wood.
Love the gate design but im skeptical on the PU glue, and on gluing the infill panel in, please let us know how they fair up to seasonal changes because maybe I over engineer my gates haha
I was questioning gluing in the ship lap too its not going to like it when it wants to move.
There seem to be two different approaches - either fix in one place in the centre and let it expand and contract naturally or glue and nail each in two places. I've done both, and whatever I do there's always someone pointing out I've done it wrong 🤣 anyway I copied Gid Joiner's method this time because he has far more experience than me at gates and exterior timber, so he knows better than me and if you watch his gate builds, he glues them in
@@RagnBoneBrown ahh, well I didn't say it was wrong, id just like a 6 months later video. The last gate I made like this design, I made my infill panel one piece and left it floating in a rebate. If your method works ok, I may try it myself next time, i hope it is ok! Love the channel by the way, been with you since 30k subs!
@@RagnBoneBrown last gates I did with infills I didn't glue the t&g boards. Just 18g pins. I set them in a groove at the ends instead of butting. What happened? The t&g boards expanded in winter and pushed the vertical stiles apart, opening the domino joins! I can't have left enough room between each t&g board.
Great vid but why the half lap joints. The appropriate joint here would be a mortice and tenon and in particular a wedged haunched double M+T.
Lovely job 👏
In the next video, we’ll talk about how a 6 by 6 post won’t support a gate this heavy as the concrete base will move as the ground swells or cracks depending on the season!
Sprung castors
I had the same problem with my timber gate, single span...spring casters did jobs 10 years later still going
I had a large gate at my last house supported by a 4x4x1/8" steel post sunk into the ground 4' w/ ~300 lbs of concrete in the hole. That gate never budged an inch. I would've used a wooden post if I could brace it to the next post over (there was only a single post available for the gate - post was against the side of the house).
If you can, set two posts and tie them together with a steel cable with turnbuckle from the top of the gate post to the bottom of the next post over. If the post sags any, tighten up the turnbuckle to pull it back over.
It is a common mistake. Isn't the poest the weekest point then the soil. All of the work like this needs a good soil compaction.
Agreed, and if the found doesn’t move the posts will undoubtedly bend over time. They need bracing inline with the gates or a spring loaded support wheel at the bottom of each gate to relieve some of the load off the posts.