People like you who take the time to make a comprehensive video covering everything you can think of that might help someone out are the best. Great, GREAT video! 🤘
Wonderful video. Thank you. 2 little suggestions. When working towards the final edge, cover the work surface with a sharpy marker. Makes it really easy to see your progress. And if your going to the trouble to use a strop, first work the edge with a fine oil stone or diamond stone. You won't be getting all those metal filings in your strop then.
Great video. I know it is a very debatable topic, but I prefer convex profiles in my axes. A lot harder to make originally buy way easier to maintain (with a round ax sharpening stone) and more durable than straight 25-degree sharpening profiles. The problem with these profiles you just made IMHO is that they are great for softwood but if you use the ax for hardwood chopping/splitting (oak, for example) the ax will more rapidly get nicked & dull. Therefore, more work all the time (reprofiling/resharpening) than with an ax with a convex profile. However, maybe not all kinds of axes are "perfect" for convex profiling. I have found Scandinavian axes (Hansford-Brucks, Fiskars, etc..) the best for it. But very clear video & instruction nonetheless. Thanks for sharing. Subscribed.
Thank you that makes such perfect sense I always started at the edge like you said the edges the consequence starting further up 12 to 13 mm it's amazing how simple something could be thank you
Thank you for this video. After watching it I was able to help a friend restore and sharpen his grandfather's axe. So much in fact that I cut myself on it while putting it in the vice to cut the end of the handle. Great video.
This is verry useful, been searching for how to flat grind a carving axe for my spooncarving projects and never thought about filing. I learned how to flat file in school, so this will work for sure. Thanks for sharing, think I finally found my solution
This is definitely a good way to grind a carving axe! Many of the best makers use flat grinds, but the ones I have are 30-35 degrees. Steep and sharp seems to be the way to go for carving!
Thank you for this video. Your "rookie mistakes" outlined basically everything I've been doing! (ha-ha) I'm looking forward to putting your technique into practice for my next project.
Wow. Absolutely the best video on sharpening I’ve ever seen. I’ve got a dozen books on the subject and...probably enough useless ‘sharpening’ gadgets to fill a good sized box. The learning curve can be expensive and that’s a shame because it doesn’t have to be. A good file, some timeless knowledge about bevel and burr and you are set! I add some sandpaper to the mix just to satisfy my OCD of taking everything to ‘11’, but, pardon my pun but anything after the file and strop is just splitting hairs. I really enjoyed this. Once you learn the technique presented here you get past the frustration and sharpening your tools becomes a very, very soothing and zen-like activity. I don’t know any other way of saying it. Another thing that should be stressed always is that a sharp tool is a safer tool. This goes from your axe right down to your pocket knife. Sharp is efficient and does the task with less effort. Thanks again. I you have a second, I’d really really like to know more about the fire hardened handle. Why and how? It’s beautiful...that might be a secondary ‘why’, but I’d like to know more.
Lane,, that was so awesome, thanks for sharing your knowledge... sharpening my axes is not my forte, quite intimidating.....but now, i think I can handle with confidence ....I love how your bring Sun Valley-ski tools into the axe world, makes perfect sense though.... reminds me of ski days back in the valley working a ski tuner.... I wish I would have held on to my tuning tool box before leaving Idaho! Cheers bud.
Bushcraft Sisyphus also, what is your best suggestion for cleaning premium files that are clogged...., besides the obvious. ? Any tricks or solutions? Thx
I just use a brass wire brush. Clogging doesn't seem to be a problem with good files, while with cheap files they wear down so fast cleaning them out doesn't help lol
1:20 I have 2 Nicholson Axe files that used to belong to my dad and not used much, also a Nicholson woodcraft rasp file. All 3 are made in Canada back in the day and work very great.
Lane... where do I even begin?... 1. Thank you for the file reccomendation. If any one reading this is interested in the superchrome file. Get it, it eats through anything and I mean ANYTHING. With ease and control to boot. HOWEVER you may want to consider a smooth file for finish work transitioning into finer abrasives. Best file I’ve ever used hands down. 2.YAASSSS!!! what a fantastic file tutorial.. I really enjoyed that. 3.That axe is breathtaking... jesus haha. The grinds you put on it are so SO nice Lane. BRAVO 👏👏👏 4. Trophy time 😉🏆🏆🏆 If you noticed he wasn’t using a file card, there’s good reason for that. The hardchrome file he’s using doesn’t pin hardly at. A light tap will release any metal that’s built up. Cheers 😁
Bushcraft Sisyphus life’s a garden, dig it. I’m really interested to hear what you have to say about it. I know I’ve been shoving them down everyone’s throats but for good reason lol. I feel very pationate about them. “I want to kill that wood!” 😂 Best quote of 2018. I meant to add that the superchrome ski file was a really clever solution to the lack of decent files in the US. I’ll have to check out the stella files.
Thank you for this!!!! My father just passed me down about two dozen VINTAGE ass files (From himself and my grandfather)...I have recently gotten into small wood working and sharpening and filing...I would LOVE to send you some..These are all old Craftsman (Before Lowe's, bought them) Nicholson (Before Crescent bought them) and other's (possibly an SK, etc) I would LOVE to trade some of these for an old Axe head (Or axe w/ handle) that needs some TLC (I recently restored an old Channellock brand Electrician's hammer, made a handle, removed the rust, dings and polished the head, etc) - Shoot me a message if you're interested! Great video thank you!
Spell check is a wonderful thing eh Buddy, only problem is you need to check it all the time, but who really gives a rats arse what you think. @@anthonygonzales6029
Awesome. A nice even filed edge on an axe, is so satisfying. I have never heard or saw a fire hardened axe handle. I would love to see how that is done. Nice video.
Enjoyed your technique, I use a 4 inch flap disc grinder with 60 or 40 grit to rough in the edge. The courser grit disc's don't seem to heat up the work but I'm still careful to not grind to the edge and to keep checking my temp as I go. When I get the angle about where I want it and have removed the bulk of the metal I'll switch over to a file and finish with that for better precision. This method shortens the time it takes and also extends my file life.
Tip: change filing directions fairly often. The new grooves reflect differently, and you can judge whether you are taking metal off where you want it. Once you establish your 12mm edge, when I change directions, I try to make a path 6 mm in. As you get close and closer to flat, the path widens fast. When you get the flat near the edge, move your light so that the edge bright, but the filed area is dark. As you close in on the edge, the edge goes dark.
Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge on this subject! There is SO much noise out there on sharpening axes and much of it contradicts itself. There are many of us who are comparatively new to the subject and I would say that we ALL need to watch this video and forget any other "instruction". I appreciate your passion for the work! I am about to sharpen my axes this way. I also have a vintage hatchet that needs to be brought back to life. Do you suggest the same approach or would the suggested angle be different? Thanks again. Subscribed and liked!
If your files start to dull give them a vinegar bath over night the slight acidity in it will sharpen it and loosen anything that the file card wouldn't remove
@@horacerumpole6912 I disagree with your statement. I have just cleaned my old files in vinegar and it has given new life to the cutting ability. But if you still disagree please say why using certified knowledge, all the best Mike T.
@@theenglishman9596 Certified-by whom? Look, you ruined your files- go to Practical Machinist forum, All metalshaping forum, or just google ‘soaking files in vinegar’ and find out you have been mis-led! Want to sharpen files properly? boggstool.com/
You wanna get the striations from filing at 90 degrees to the edge. If they are parallel or at an angle it’s far more likely that pieces of the edge will break off.
always one of lifes satisfying little pleasures when a file bites nice and firmly into the piece of metal you are using it on.. conversly its horrible when the file just slides uselessly over the metal with barely any effect.. regards p
I watched this but basically just did the pushl method when I did it by myself. Just felt more natural, I did it on a bench in a vice but if you were to hold the axe at camp and sharpen it without a vice or a workbench that's the way you're gonna do it.
Good informative video, thanks. At the point where you stopped was the axe ready to use? You mentioned you could get crazy sharp with stones, but if you were in a hurry, or say out in the woods with just a file for some reason would the axe be ready enough or do I still need to stone it before use? 'm not worried about beauty at this point but rather performance and not damaging the blade.
It tends to vary a lot more as the angles get narrower because the thickness of the cheeks further back makes more of a difference. Good rule of thumb? File the angle at the sharpest you physically can, because the file will eventually be dragging right into the eye up around the handle. Putting a hard plastic layer down will save your markings if you are worried about that further up the axe, but usually the max you can go ends up in the high teens. Usually lol
After filing I would remove the roughness of the file gouges with a oilstone and then finish with a leather strop coated in a stainless steel polishing powder.
Thanks for a great video! I wish I could say “done, I’m good,” but still have questions. I suppose like many crafts there are multiple techniques. Things I watched that raised questions rather than answers: 1. Never saw you flip the axe over. It appeared you filed one side for the whole 25 min. Must have missed the flip? 2. You appeared to file from left to right the whole time. No need to do any right to left? 3. When it comes to technique there’s no arguing with your edge filing toward (into) the edge. As a rookie I get frustrated watching videos because some very respected sources file away from the edge. I watched a knife sharpening video that talked about it. They sharpened two knives using ‘away’ on one and ‘toward’ on the other. No apparent difference in result. I guess my frustration watching axe videos is everyone seems to just plow into their techniques without addressing it as if something as seemingly monumental as direction doesn’t matter. I just don’t know … does it?
I am sharpening a Damascus axe that is used for splitting, clearing brush Yada Yada Yada. It has a long curved blade that is really looking good so far.😅 Do I do both sides? Also, I want to thank you from the bottom of my heart, if no one has told you laatley, you are an AWESOME TEACHER😊 Make it Amazing, Groovy ☮️ Granny
I have a colossal sword, it came very thick and dull like a brand new axe or machete. I had to use a second cut file to sharpen it. Now I can cut things cleanly ☝️ It is 28 pounds blade heavy, 6 inch wide blade, 64 inch long.
I like your style and sense of humor and technique and way of explaining things. sub'd. cheers! BTW where can I order/who makes the keychain bevel gauge u have on your key ring? thanks!
Hi, I have just one hand axe that needs a sharpen so I only get one go at this I suppose. After you have done your first file to the pen mark, I assume you change the angle and just "flat" file that area that you have already been filing to get it flat right? You don't want to extend the new shiny area beyond the pen mark at 13mm right? Also do you remove all the burr with the strop, often I found when sharpening other things that I just push the burr from one side to the other and it never seems to go away. Is it ok to leave a burr ? Thanks
Nice video! But a flat grind is not always the best for axes because it prevents them from biting deep. If you look up the FSS axe sharpening video you will see that the old timers sharpened their axes way back into the base. The 25 degree bevel on the edge is great, but then it is a good idea to transition it into the body, to get rid of the speed bump, as Liam Hoffman puts it.
I learnt a few things from this video, thank you. To give you something in return. That is a long file and the usage marks show that you only use the first 1/3. Try using the whole file and you will be more efficient and flip the file over from time to time to cut the other way.
Loved the video thanks for the info! On a completely different note I’m thinking about “painting” a new handle. I have seen them done this way in several videos and at the beginning of this video. Is there a certain paint to use? What’s the best way to do it?
If you want a solid color that lasts forever and gives great grip, linseed oil paint is my favorite. Pain in the ass to use! But the outcome is great. If you want brighter colors, stripes, and stuff like that, rustoleum enamal is hard to beat for convenience and costs. You can use a surface wax if you don't like the grip once it dries. Hopefully that helps!
Great information, in definatly getting my hands on Sun valley ski tools 10 inch file. I am very curious as well to the song in the beginning and whom the artist is I would like to hear the whole song. Thanks
hi, sorry got another question after I posted.....would you reduce the 13mm marking for a smaller hand axe? Eg I have a hand axe and the blade is 5 inches from the back to the front. From what is left of the original bevel it looks like it was cut around the 6-8mm mark....? Any advice. I loved your video by the way you are a very good teacher. Thanks
Recommendations on where to purchase the Sun Valley Ski Tools files? I went to their site and you have to be a wholesaler to purchase directly from them.
How do you determine that you are at 25°? I know the question is elementary and there are many tools to use to determine angle, but what I'm asking is, let's say I have an angle jig that I can set my file on and it angles the file at 25 degrees but where is a good place to judge the angle from?: directly in front of the edge facing edgepoll with the edge facing you or is the angle determined from a different location? Also, when you say 'flatten' do you mean like perfectly horizontal flat or is there any slight angle to it?(I know the definition of flat lol but I am just wanting to make absolutely sure)
The 12-13mm mark will ensure you have a 25 degree angle as long as you are evenly filing and not just one end or the other. When you reach the mark, you knock down the high spots that you missed and once it is all flat, your angle will equal 25 degrees because you flat filed 12-13mm in from the edge.
People like you who take the time to make a comprehensive video covering everything you can think of that might help someone out are the best. Great, GREAT video! 🤘
Wonderful video. Thank you. 2 little suggestions. When working towards the final edge, cover the work surface with a sharpy marker. Makes it really easy to see your progress. And if your going to the trouble to use a strop, first work the edge with a fine oil stone or diamond stone. You won't be getting all those metal filings in your strop then.
Probably one of the best how-to videos on RUclips. Period. Thank you.
I'm glad you enjoyed it, sir!
Great video. I know it is a very debatable topic, but I prefer convex profiles in my axes. A lot harder to make originally buy way easier to maintain (with a round ax sharpening stone) and more durable than straight 25-degree sharpening profiles. The problem with these profiles you just made IMHO is that they are great for softwood but if you use the ax for hardwood chopping/splitting (oak, for example) the ax will more rapidly get nicked & dull. Therefore, more work all the time (reprofiling/resharpening) than with an ax with a convex profile. However, maybe not all kinds of axes are "perfect" for convex profiling. I have found Scandinavian axes (Hansford-Brucks, Fiskars, etc..) the best for it. But very clear video & instruction nonetheless. Thanks for sharing. Subscribed.
Well done! It’s always a pleasure to observe someone care about quality. I appreciate your effort.
Thank you, sir! We just loaded up some new videos with more techniques.
As a beginner this video and your comments really upped my axe sharpening game, thank you so much!
Thank you that makes such perfect sense I always started at the edge like you said the edges the consequence starting further up 12 to 13 mm it's amazing how simple something could be thank you
I really love the way you explain it in detail, thank you for sharing!
That's pretty cool. I also learned something new about these deep-bladed axes of the Northwest. Nice video - thanks for making and sharing that.
Big Puget Sounds! Very specialized axes.
This video is simply outstanding! Great share. Thank you!
yeah
Thanks for this video. I had no idea what I was doing and learned a lot.
Man, This is seriously some great information! Very good insight. Thank you
Thank you for this video. After watching it I was able to help a friend restore and sharpen his grandfather's axe. So much in fact that I cut myself on it while putting it in the vice to cut the end of the handle. Great video.
Ouch! Of course, that means you did a good job ;) Next time you'll know!
Yeah, I made that mistake. Then AFTER I did it, I watched a video where the guy warned viewers not to sharpen the blade until the new handle was hung.
8
This is verry useful, been searching for how to flat grind a carving axe for my spooncarving projects and never thought about filing. I learned how to flat file in school, so this will work for sure. Thanks for sharing, think I finally found my solution
This is definitely a good way to grind a carving axe! Many of the best makers use flat grinds, but the ones I have are 30-35 degrees. Steep and sharp seems to be the way to go for carving!
@@BushcraftSisyphus thanks for the tip😊
Dude! You made my year! The 12-13mm distance is key. Thanks sooò much. Be looking into those files pronto! 🤗🤗😉😇👊👊👌👏
Thank you so much! i feel better about what I am doing now. Great instruction.
Great video, for me this has produced the best results. Thank you.
I love the video! Great work! Very instructional!
Thank you for this video. Your "rookie mistakes" outlined basically everything I've been doing! (ha-ha) I'm looking forward to putting your technique into practice for my next project.
Don't start at the edge! Thanks for watching.
Wow. Absolutely the best video on sharpening I’ve ever seen. I’ve got a dozen books on the subject and...probably enough useless ‘sharpening’ gadgets to fill a good sized box. The learning curve can be expensive and that’s a shame because it doesn’t have to be. A good file, some timeless knowledge about bevel and burr and you are set! I add some sandpaper to the mix just to satisfy my OCD of taking everything to ‘11’, but, pardon my pun but anything after the file and strop is just splitting hairs. I really enjoyed this. Once you learn the technique presented here you get past the frustration and sharpening your tools becomes a very, very soothing and zen-like activity. I don’t know any other way of saying it. Another thing that should be stressed always is that a sharp tool is a safer tool. This goes from your axe right down to your pocket knife. Sharp is efficient and does the task with less effort.
Thanks again. I you have a second, I’d really really like to know more about the fire hardened handle. Why and how? It’s beautiful...that might be a secondary ‘why’, but I’d like to know more.
Thank you, sir! Yes, the key is zen 😌
Thank you for this terrific tutorial. Very informative
Very nice, I like the back and forth in your descriptions. 👍✌🥃
Lane,, that was so awesome, thanks for sharing your knowledge... sharpening my axes is not my forte, quite intimidating.....but now, i think I can handle with confidence ....I love how your bring Sun Valley-ski tools into the axe world, makes perfect sense though.... reminds me of ski days back in the valley working a ski tuner.... I wish I would have held on to my tuning tool box before leaving Idaho! Cheers bud.
You got to get one Willy!
Bushcraft Sisyphus also, what is your best suggestion for cleaning premium files that are clogged...., besides the obvious. ? Any tricks or solutions? Thx
I just use a brass wire brush. Clogging doesn't seem to be a problem with good files, while with cheap files they wear down so fast cleaning them out doesn't help lol
Thanks for the insight.... very useful!!
Thanks great vid - very clear and simple
thanks for the instruction, I will give this a go.
1:20 I have 2 Nicholson Axe files that used to belong to my dad and not used much, also a Nicholson woodcraft rasp file. All 3 are made in Canada back in the day and work very great.
That was sooo useful. Thanks
Cool, thanks for a great tutorial 🇳🇴🤘🏼
I was looking for a grind to put on a small 1.25lb hatchet I bought for bushcrafting. I think I’m going to give this one a try
great information thank you I'd like to get a Lamacca axe as well
Great presentation and explanation...Thank you sir.
Great video. Thanks!
Thank you!
Just bought some new axes, great to know how to take care of them properly. Thanks for this great vid!! I won’t be taking them to the grinder lol!!
Good tips going to get my axe out again soon to make it a as new edge thanks man
Lane... where do I even begin?...
1. Thank you for the file reccomendation. If any one reading this is interested in the superchrome file. Get it, it eats through anything and I mean ANYTHING. With ease and control to boot. HOWEVER you may want to consider a smooth file for finish work transitioning into finer abrasives. Best file I’ve ever used hands down.
2.YAASSSS!!! what a fantastic file tutorial.. I really enjoyed that.
3.That axe is breathtaking... jesus haha. The grinds you put on it are so SO nice Lane. BRAVO 👏👏👏
4. Trophy time 😉🏆🏆🏆
If you noticed he wasn’t using a file card, there’s good reason for that. The hardchrome file he’s using doesn’t pin hardly at. A light tap will release any metal that’s built up. Cheers 😁
Keep on keeping on, Seth! The Basque Axe is coming up in Axe Arena pretty soon. Stay tuned!
Bushcraft Sisyphus life’s a garden, dig it. I’m really interested to hear what you have to say about it. I know I’ve been shoving them down everyone’s throats but for good reason lol. I feel very pationate about them. “I want to kill that wood!” 😂 Best quote of 2018. I meant to add that the superchrome ski file was a really clever solution to the lack of decent files in the US. I’ll have to check out the stella files.
Thank you for this!!!! My father just passed me down about two dozen VINTAGE ass files (From himself and my grandfather)...I have recently gotten into small wood working and sharpening and filing...I would LOVE to send you some..These are all old Craftsman (Before Lowe's, bought them) Nicholson (Before Crescent bought them) and other's (possibly an SK, etc) I would LOVE to trade some of these for an old Axe head (Or axe w/ handle) that needs some TLC (I recently restored an old Channellock brand Electrician's hammer, made a handle, removed the rust, dings and polished the head, etc) - Shoot me a message if you're interested! Great video thank you!
Ass files??? Wow sounds bad
Very good video easy to follow with a result , thanks. Subscribed
The Bob Ross of ax fileing... pretty little bevel here... pretty little bevel there.
Excellent Video! Great Info!! Well taught & well demoed !! Liked !! Subbed !!
I learnt something new today Thanks .
Now you just need to learn the past tense spelling of learn.....
Spell check is a wonderful thing eh Buddy, only problem is you need to check it all the time, but who really gives a rats arse what you think.
@@anthonygonzales6029
I like...Thanx for sharing
Well done, sir.
Excellent.
Thank you so much. Now I have a plan.
It's very meditative! Enjoy :D
Awesome. A nice even filed edge on an axe, is so satisfying.
I have never heard or saw a fire hardened axe handle. I would love to see how that is done.
Nice video.
Enjoyed your technique, I use a 4 inch flap disc grinder with 60 or 40 grit to rough in the edge. The courser grit disc's don't seem to heat up the work but I'm still careful to not grind to the edge and to keep checking my temp as I go. When I get the angle about where I want it and have removed the bulk of the metal I'll switch over to a file and finish with that for better precision. This method shortens the time it takes and also extends my file life.
A flap disc can be used for a more polished finish.
AKTrapper you can do that if you go slow, just don't let the metal get hot. That will ruin the tempering.
I do the same
Good advice.
Tip: change filing directions fairly often. The new grooves reflect differently, and you can judge whether you are taking metal off where you want it. Once you establish your 12mm edge, when I change directions, I try to make a path 6 mm in. As you get close and closer to flat, the path widens fast.
When you get the flat near the edge, move your light so that the edge bright, but the filed area is dark. As you close in on the edge, the edge goes dark.
Spoken like a man who knows what the hell he's talking about. Thank you sir 🎩👌
Good tips! I was just starting to run into this too.
Not just a hat Rack Sir thanks
Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge on this subject! There is SO much noise out there on sharpening axes and much of it contradicts itself. There are many of us who are comparatively new to the subject and I would say that we ALL need to watch this video and forget any other "instruction". I appreciate your passion for the work! I am about to sharpen my axes this way. I also have a vintage hatchet that needs to be brought back to life. Do you suggest the same approach or would the suggested angle be different? Thanks again. Subscribed and liked!
Qqnnrr N q qb qqq qq. Kitty kitty q kitty f CC q
Great video, thank you :)
I just viewed your fire hardening/finishing video.👍
If your files start to dull give them a vinegar bath over night the slight acidity in it will sharpen it and loosen anything that the file card wouldn't remove
This is the WORST thing you can do to a file-ruins them!
Send them off to be resharpened by experts!
@@horacerumpole6912 or just resharpen with another file. Lol "send them off to experts" seems q little over the top
It only seems that way to you because you obviously know nothing about maintaining quality files-
@@horacerumpole6912 I disagree with your statement. I have just cleaned my old files in vinegar and it has given new life to the cutting ability. But if you still disagree please say why using certified knowledge, all the best Mike T.
@@theenglishman9596 Certified-by whom? Look, you ruined your files- go to Practical Machinist forum, All metalshaping forum, or just google ‘soaking files in vinegar’ and find out you have been mis-led!
Want to sharpen files properly?
boggstool.com/
"OCD check… if you don’t care, don’t get into the habit of caring" Great sharpening & psych tips 😀
Thanks for Sharing
Thank you sir now I know how too start. Thank you
I must buy this file
You wanna get the striations from filing at 90 degrees to the edge. If they are parallel or at an angle it’s far more likely that pieces of the edge will break off.
That is amazing
Great video! Thanks for the lesson!
Hey man thank u so much wooow my axe is getting deadly
Good tips and takeaways Sis. What's the process for that fire hardened handle. DAMN! beautiful.
always one of lifes satisfying little pleasures when a file bites nice and firmly into the piece of metal you are using it on.. conversly its horrible when the file just slides uselessly over the metal with barely any effect.. regards p
Great video, Lane!
Can you post a link to the places you purchase the files?
I watched this but basically just did the pushl method when I did it by myself.
Just felt more natural, I did it on a bench in a vice but if you were to hold the axe at camp and sharpen it without a vice or a workbench that's the way you're gonna do it.
Good informative video, thanks. At the point where you stopped was the axe ready to use? You mentioned you could get crazy sharp with stones, but if you were in a hurry, or say out in the woods with just a file for some reason would the axe be ready enough or do I still need to stone it before use? 'm not worried about beauty at this point but rather performance and not damaging the blade.
Great video! Really informative and simply to follow. What's the bevel depth that you typically see for axe-heads with an 18-20 deg angle?
It tends to vary a lot more as the angles get narrower because the thickness of the cheeks further back makes more of a difference. Good rule of thumb? File the angle at the sharpest you physically can, because the file will eventually be dragging right into the eye up around the handle. Putting a hard plastic layer down will save your markings if you are worried about that further up the axe, but usually the max you can go ends up in the high teens. Usually lol
After filing I would remove the roughness of the file gouges with a oilstone and then finish with a leather strop coated in a stainless steel polishing powder.
I've never sharpened an axe before. Great video for a first lesson! I am curious how often you need to do a sharpening like this?
well done
Thanks for a great video! I wish I could say “done, I’m good,” but still have questions. I suppose like many crafts there are multiple techniques.
Things I watched that raised questions rather than answers:
1. Never saw you flip the axe over. It appeared you filed one side for the whole 25 min. Must have missed the flip?
2. You appeared to file from left to right the whole time. No need to do any right to left?
3. When it comes to technique there’s no arguing with your edge filing toward (into) the edge. As a rookie I get frustrated watching videos because some very respected sources file away from the edge. I watched a knife sharpening video that talked about it. They sharpened two knives using ‘away’ on one and ‘toward’ on the other. No apparent difference in result. I guess my frustration watching axe videos is everyone seems to just plow into their techniques without addressing it as if something as seemingly monumental as direction doesn’t matter. I just don’t know … does it?
The old debate... Gig vs Jig: which is correct?
Lol
Great video 👍. I learned a lot.
@Libby Laksmi lol 🤪🔫
I am sharpening a Damascus axe that is used for splitting, clearing brush Yada Yada Yada.
It has a long curved blade that is really looking good so far.😅 Do I do both sides?
Also, I want to thank you from the bottom of my heart, if no one has told you laatley, you are an AWESOME TEACHER😊
Make it Amazing,
Groovy ☮️ Granny
Nice video do you have a link or list of files used as well as that angle gauge you used?
Thanks Lou
I have a colossal sword, it came very thick and dull like a brand new axe or machete. I had to use a second cut file to sharpen it. Now I can cut things cleanly ☝️ It is 28 pounds blade heavy, 6 inch wide blade, 64 inch long.
I like your style and sense of humor and technique and way of explaining things. sub'd. cheers! BTW where can I order/who makes the keychain bevel gauge u have on your key ring? thanks!
I like ur video ty for the help
Thank you, sir! 🎩👌
Around 17:00 mark; that’s all what she said 😂 but seriously great video! Thanks dude!
Great video, wondering what that song in the into is though.
Nice video. I bought the SVST 10 inch file. Could you send me info on the handle you purchased on Amazon.
Hi, I have just one hand axe that needs a sharpen so I only get one go at this I suppose. After you have done your first file to the pen mark, I assume you change the angle and just "flat" file that area that you have already been filing to get it flat right? You don't want to extend the new shiny area beyond the pen mark at 13mm right? Also do you remove all the burr with the strop, often I found when sharpening other things that I just push the burr from one side to the other and it never seems to go away. Is it ok to leave a burr ? Thanks
Nice video! But a flat grind is not always the best for axes because it prevents them from biting deep. If you look up the FSS axe sharpening video you will see that the old timers sharpened their axes way back into the base. The 25 degree bevel on the edge is great, but then it is a good idea to transition it into the body, to get rid of the speed bump, as Liam Hoffman puts it.
Yes there are better grinds! But this is a nice one to start with while learning to file 👍
I use my hips quite a bit for grinding. Lol
I have pulaski with an asymmetric axe side. The right face of the blade (when chopping) is flatter than the left side.
Pretty common on axes that had a lot of use. Not ideal but they still work.
I learnt a few things from this video, thank you. To give you something in return. That is a long file and the usage marks show that you only use the first 1/3. Try using the whole file and you will be more efficient and flip the file over from time to time to cut the other way.
Working on it!
Loved the video thanks for the info! On a completely different note I’m thinking about “painting” a new handle. I have seen them done this way in several videos and at the beginning of this video. Is there a certain paint to use? What’s the best way to do it?
If you want a solid color that lasts forever and gives great grip, linseed oil paint is my favorite. Pain in the ass to use! But the outcome is great. If you want brighter colors, stripes, and stuff like that, rustoleum enamal is hard to beat for convenience and costs. You can use a surface wax if you don't like the grip once it dries. Hopefully that helps!
Yes it does. Thank you!!
Cub scouts and flannel shirt posers paint their handles.
I really enjoyed your video will this method work on a small hatchet too.
It will work on any axe
Great video. 25 25!
What's that gauge you use near the end of the video called? The one measuring your edge angle?
Great information, in definatly getting my hands on Sun valley ski tools 10 inch file.
I am very curious as well to the song in the beginning and whom the artist is I would like to hear the whole song.
Thanks
hi, sorry got another question after I posted.....would you reduce the 13mm marking for a smaller hand axe? Eg I have a hand axe and the blade is 5 inches from the back to the front. From what is left of the original bevel it looks like it was cut around the 6-8mm mark....? Any advice. I loved your video by the way you are a very good teacher. Thanks
Recommendations on where to purchase the Sun Valley Ski Tools files? I went to their site and you have to be a wholesaler to purchase directly from them.
Thanks for sharing your skill.
I'm restoring an axe head and after removing the rust there is blacksomething on edge. any ideas what it could be?
Hey, just bought a forest axe & what kind of file handle is best? + those two files are best for beginners.
What do you recommend for using to remove the gouges and rough edge's?
what is the file fineness that should be used and do you need a fine one at the end to finish the blade?
Thank you. What are the gloves you are using? Thanks again
Check out the Tuatahi axe filing jig.
I would kill for a Tuatahi jig! But can't seem to come up with $300 at the same time lol
How do you determine that you are at 25°? I know the question is elementary and there are many tools to use to determine angle, but what I'm asking is, let's say I have an angle jig that I can set my file on and it angles the file at 25 degrees but where is a good place to judge the angle from?: directly in front of the edge facing edgepoll with the edge facing you or is the angle determined from a different location? Also, when you say 'flatten' do you mean like perfectly horizontal flat or is there any slight angle to it?(I know the definition of flat lol but I am just wanting to make absolutely sure)
The 12-13mm mark will ensure you have a 25 degree angle as long as you are evenly filing and not just one end or the other. When you reach the mark, you knock down the high spots that you missed and once it is all flat, your angle will equal 25 degrees because you flat filed 12-13mm in from the edge.
@@adventuremanintheclouds8968 got it. Thank you.