Just asking because I am about to tackle this issue. Wouldn't it be easier if you smash the lip on its self to make the tube smaller and try to grab it with pliers and or needle nose vise grips? Thanks...
Correct. Typically this is lightly tapped into the hole until the shoulder seats in the block. I have used a little RTV in the past around the seat if I think it may leak. It's important to have the tube bolted to the block to avoid breakage.
@@Pablo453 up in canada we get broken dipstick tubes all the time. Especially on salt trucks and snow plows. They just rot out and seize to the block. The different metal materials bond when corrosion starts
As long as you get it done its a win
Just asking because I am about to tackle this issue. Wouldn't it be easier if you smash the lip on its self to make the tube smaller and try to grab it with pliers and or needle nose vise grips? Thanks...
That sounds like a good idea as long as it isn't as stuck as this one was.
i ended up removing the oil pan and tapping it out
Best method is a course thread bolt. One that will cut into the tube. Then slide hammer it out. Works eveytime. Takes 5 min.
Dang! Wish I would've thought of that.
I'm gonna have to try that first next time.
Not every time 😂. I just did an '83 s10
@@Boycott_Wendys 5 min
@@barryporter7449 that's what she said
Awesome! No o ring on new tube , correct? Thanks
Correct.
Typically this is lightly tapped into the hole until the shoulder seats in the block.
I have used a little RTV in the past around the seat if I think it may leak.
It's important to have the tube bolted to the block to avoid breakage.
@@Pablo453 up in canada we get broken dipstick tubes all the time. Especially on salt trucks and snow plows. They just rot out and seize to the block. The different metal materials bond when corrosion starts
Spade bit lol. That is a concrete bit.
Yup, I had a brain fart there.