I have never replied to any Utube channel before. But I do watch alot of videos while my chair. I can only think that was a case of the sleepy thumb. Sorry about that. No disrespect intended. Keep up the food work.
Nice work! Advice on improving efficiency, have a couple of template boards or jigs. For this, just a thin sheet of plywood that your boards are screwed into would work. This way you set up between cuts and throw the whole batch on at once. Once that run is done, pull off the whole batch and throw on the next. No down time with unscrewing and screwing. This can of course be incorporated into your cut files for consistency and efficiency
some people have the gift of being able to explain clearly and succinctly - they keep it moving without the viewer getting bored. dude, you are that guy! these are so much fun to watch and very efficient. thank you for having a RUclips channel!
Great job!!. I'd recomend making the cut out with a 1/8" router bit instead of 1/4". I use most of the time 1/8" bits to cut out pieces and this allow me to keep the CNC and the router (a DeWalt 2 1/4 HP) working with the less possible effort.
Hi Andy, for your thinner boards could you have cut them a bit longer and then put 2 boards top to tail with the main board next to the handle on the other one just to squeeze them a bit closer together
Looks awesome thank you for sharing your awesome project with us today, Stay safe and healthy from Henrico County Virginia, I just purchased my own Master CNC recently.
Great walk-through of your process, Andy. I'm on a smaller CNC, so it's nice to see what I can look forward to for laying out multiple parts when I move up to something larger. I make something similar and did a bunch of them in silver maple and a few in walnut based on what I had on-hand. Walnut outsells silver maple about 10 to 1 for me.
I've had great luck cleaning up the sides of my pieces from the cnc with the ridgid oscillating edge sander. Works great removing tabs and marks from bit step downs while keeping the edge square and corners sharp. Great video!
Great insights into your process. Interesting comment about the collet slipping. Garrett over at IDC Woodcraft just mentioned that in a video. He suggested blowing out the collet at each bit change.
Here it is! www.woodworkingshop.com/product/FS32999/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA1-6sBhAoEiwArqlGPmFtd7EYWO365wiFZza2QmUrqbIwQ_Q7i4H9rJdDHgGyYUM2W-Du4xoCqKQQAvD_BwE
I cut parts for the artist's easel I manufacture that require a 1/16" round over on both sides. I mill both sides with Amana Tool - 56142 Solid Carbide Pt. Cutting Roundover 1/16 Radius x 9/64 Dia x 7/32 x 1 before milling the profile with the end mill. It requires a precision fixture to hold the parts and precise installation of the bits. However, it saves a lot of hand work.
Hi Andy just found your channel and what you are doing is exactly what I hope to do in the UK. From a commercial point of view I would interested to know how you would price a job like and what sort of profit you would aim to make . Planning a night in tonight to binge what all your videos. Great job 👍
Nice to see a breakdown of production time like that, not many others will do that. I can see that you have some challenges connected to using a "hobby" cnc for production purposes. The reason I'm calling the shapeoko a "hobby" cnc is that the machine is to "weak" to get a decent speed when cutting. My shopbot PRS Alpha 4'x8' currently cuts with a ,25 compression bit at 120ipm, and I seem to recall in one of your videos that you were specifying a cutting speed 20ipm. From your screen it seemed like the cutting toolpaths was taking 29min and with my machine it'll take 5min. In a production environment that is a big difference... but that point also touches on stuff you talked about in one of your other videos about running a full time cnc workshop vs. a part time "sideshow" And you'll probably have to sell a whole lot more of your products justifying having a Shopbot in the basement I'm not sure if these tips will help but here they are... (After reviewing the video a couple of times it seems like youre already doing some of this, but I'll keep them in the comment for others to see.) :-) 1. Share cut lines. Offset the parts with the width of your bit + a fraction but make sure to keep the tabs between the parts lined up or the parts will break loose and get damaged. It'll keep your bits sharper for a longer time, they don't have to do all the full width cutting you're doing now. 2. If possible step away from fusion360 toolpaths, in my opinion they do a whole lot of stuff they don't need to since they're intended for metal milling. 3. Make sure your toolpaths penetrate your spoilboard, you'll easily sand away the tabs in the sanding process and if you're not doing a roundover on the bottom it'll take away the whole step of routing off the bottom "edge". If you're doing a roundover it might be possible to remove the tabs in the same process depending on your roundover radius... (I'm sorry this comment escalated into a small article...)
Thank you for your comment. You're right, the Shapeoko is not a production machine, but that doesn't mean it can't be used in small-scale production. I'm running a .25 compression bit at .125doc and 100-120ipm. I would say that is excellent for a $3,000 machine in my basement. I've never run anything as slow as 20ipm. The other issue I run into is the CNC can cut them faster than I can finish them (sanding, routing, applying finish). So I need to focus on making that process more efficient. Making the CNC cut them faster would not increase my overall efficiency at this point.
@@AndyBirdBuilds compression bits really shine when cutting full depth in one pass to take advantage of pulling the fibers towards the middle of the board. You can save a little money running downcut bits (it also helps hold the workpiece in place) or upcuts if your clamping is good and you need the chip evacuation. I often use 1/8 compression bits on 3/4 material cutting full depth without tabs. The compressed sawdust left in the cut holds the workpiece great.
Interesting. I know that compression bits really shine with full depth cuts, but I don't think thats possible with the Shapeoko. I use them in this tray scenario because it leaves a clean top and bottom. What CNC are you doing this on? With the 3/4'' cuts, what material is this on? Thanks for sharing!
@@AndyBirdBuilds I'm running an older shopbot prsalpha. I think the shapeoko could handle it with the 1/8 cutter. I'm using the 1/4 shank 1/8 cutter compression bit from spetool on Amazon. I'm cutting around 80ipm. It's a low load and doesn't take as much clamping compared to running a 1/4 cutter. I ramp in the cut and see minor burning at end where the bit stops to exit. I hope this helps! Thanks for your videos. I hope to start documenting more of my work and your videos are great inspiration.
@@InspiredCraftsman Thanks so much for the information. What is your spindle speed? This would be awesome if it works on the Shapeoko. Thanks for watching my videos!
Nice!!! Working on getting going full time. Be interested in how to find buyers for production runs. Still looking on where to find requests. Great explanation on breaking down the amount of time required.
Hey Andy. Great channel. I can’t find a video on this issue I’m having. I’m making a bowl that’s 1” deep and I want to put a design on the bottom with a v bit but it will take hours because the router will come up an inch to my zero height each time. If it was not a bowl the cut would only take a few minutes. Is there a way to keep my v bit from doing this? Any help would be appreciated.
@@AndyBirdBuilds so after I cut out the bowl. Stop the cut and zero out the v bIt to the bottom of my bowl then start the cut over? I can’t do that if I’m cutting multiple bowls at one time can I? The bit won’t clear one bowl to get to another bowl will it? Thanks
hey! I'm just thinking, Could you not have maybe sardined the tray contour? at the very least you could save a few inches for the thicker boards and squeeze a few more trays out of them, but I was thinking it could let you double up on those boards you thought only had a single part in
Great video, lots of great info, but... Do yourself a favour and flip them over to do the round over on the CNC. Make a female jig tight enough to hold the parts upside down without slipping. A vacuum bed would be a good option too. All extra cost and effort to implement, but worth their weight in gold to get rid of manual work. A tool changer is a great investment also, but not sure what options you have with your machine, probably not enough Z height maybe. Keep it up champ, great channel.
I guess i did watch this video. I don’t remember it. LOL. How much do you sell your trays for? I would assume these trays in a big bulk order may get a discounted price. But if you were to sell them at a show… what would be your price?
What would you sell an individual board like this for? I'm debating about buying a CNC and doing smaller projects like this would be the main schtick of it for me. I know that markets vary, but I'm curious as to what you sell these for. Thanks!
Great video and product that you put together. However, you might want to check into using the accelerator on a surface which can potentially come in contact with food, and thus be ingested. Most accelerators are based on amines, which are nasty little chemicals (think ammonia). I highly recommend that you check the SDS for the Starbond accelerator proprietary ingredient "Acute Potential Health Effects" .
Thanks, this is definitely something to consider when using any product. Its also a giant rabbit hole and one question leads to the next. A tiny dot of Cured CA glue recessed into wood with accelerator sanded flat underneath several coats of a food safe finish doesn't seem like a problem to me. If the surface was going to be used to cut on, that would be a different conversation.
Hello, was wondering which router you changed to. i have the dewalt shown in previous videos and on setting 1 it runs at 16,000 RPM which sometimes it too fast for certain jobs.
I've ran all three. Dewalt, Makita, and Carbide 3d's router which is essentially the Makita. Makita has a larger rpm range. I believe it can go as low as 12,000rpm
@@AndyBirdBuilds can we ask for a cost and sale price breakdown? if you dont want to thats fine. if you get more orders like this will you ever get a 4x8 machine like an avid cnc?
@@AndrewPetzold Yes, I'd like to see even an approximate profit margin breakdown. You spent almost a full work week of time and you're selling wholesale, so I'm really curious as to what your actual net is per board.
Andy - your collet loosened due to friction and heat. the tiny threads on the shaft are susceptible to expanding and contracting, thus having your collet loosen on you, slow down your feed rate and raise your cut depth.....or use a brand new bit. cheers bud.
Cool job! Couple of questions...and I did note your XYZ orientation point in the lower left corner. 1. Why does the thickness have to be exact (but assuming to be within a small variance)? Thickness isn't integral to the design. So why couldn't you just do your cutouts either x" deep, or x" deep from the top of the piece? 2. Boards that weren't 5 1/2" wide are assumed to be within a small variance though. There looked like a lot of room between the 2 trays for each board. Couldn't you cut down that gap for the remaining boards and still get 2 from each? Just curious on the process. 😉
Thanks, Kathy! The thickness is important because of the machining, I want to be removing the same amount each time. My RPM, Depth of Cut, and Inches Per Minute are all set up to cut a certain amount each time. If one piece is, 1/4'' thicker than an another, the machine will have to work that much harder and possibly leaving a less than desirable result. I tried this to squeeze as much as possible out of each board. There is roughly 3/8'' between them the trays from each board. I'm using a 1/4'' bit so I needed to allow room for it to cut without cutting into the next.
So my comment is on your board. I have been thinking about upgrading my machine to t-track, but I see you still end up screwing the boards down. I want to end up doing as little damage ro bed without sacrificing speed.
Really cool video, I am from the UK and am trying to do something similar here. I was wondering how do you calculate speeds and feed and depth of pass?
Thank you for watching! I bought mine from @klingsporwoodworkingshop online. There are some you can buy on Amazon but I've never used them and am not sure about the quality.
I have the shapeoko3 but still can't drag myself more than two seconds away from the emergency stop button, which is time consuming and boring to watch. Just as I start to feel more confident and push the machine a little harder, something messes up and puts me firmly back in my place, like missed steps from the CNC (belt slippage, dust, blunt bit, flex, too fast etc). e.g I thought I'd challenge myself a little so I took a knackered old small oak table that had been brutally painted and went to work. Inlayed with two different wood types on the top. I was chuffed with my results. Now I just had to face off the underside of the table. The one inch facing off bit went for a swim in my nearly finished piece, leaving me with little options for repair because of the way the table was joined (metal). Luckily I was hovering over the stop button as per usual, just a couple of seconds more and the bit was going to pick a fight with the metal threaded hold down inserts on the waste board and probably break the machine, possibly even cause a fire. I got back on the horse after some analysis of what happened (missed steps in Z axis) but still have to respect that it isn't a race horse! Still love it, although consistency is hard to achieve with a machine with fairly loose tolerances. I seem to remember you started on the shapeoko 3? I see you have the pro now. I have upgraded Z axis now but the other belts still hold me to account.
I did start with the 3. I've noticed a huge difference between the 3 and the Pro. It's good that you upgraded the z axis. That was the 3's weakest point. I have my fair share of oops but it's mostly due to operator error. I've never really had a problem with missing steps though
I'm always hesitant to share this information because there are so many factors affecting it and every job setup is so different. But here is a good place to start. wiki.shapeoko.com/index.php/materials
@@AndyBirdBuilds that seems to be pretty common. I have only had my shapeoko pro for two weeks and it seems like there is no correct answer. Just rough guidelines. Some people are very conservative with speeds and others are running so fast it blows me away. I'm starting in the middle with scrap mdf and pine just to see how everything works. Thanks for sharing the information!
@@fo22estgump57 I went through that phase on my shapeoko pro. Finding feeds and speeds is annoyingly difficult, and in hindsight justly so, due to bit choice, material differences, cutting depth, etc. Anyway I set my router at a static 15000rpm using a cheap laser tachometer from Amazon, then I start a given bit/material/cut combo at 50 IPM. If it's cutting well I overdrive the program in Carbide Motion in 10% increments while watching the quality. With a few tests you can calculate your optimal feed rate and use that in the future. Eventually I grew a list of feeds that work for my projects.
This is a great idea. Is it your original design? I think anything made of walnut is beautiful. There is a lot more handwork involved even with a CNC. I have thought about buying one for a few ideas I have, but I'm afraid the setup with the computer may be beyond my abilities though, lol. Great video on what goes into making a product to sell. Best of luck Andy!!! PS- Is this a full time job or just a side /hobby of yours?
It is my original design. I have a video that goes into what it takes to get started with CNC. It will give a good idea of what to expect. And yes this is my full time job. ruclips.net/video/Ujt3h8TlMxE/видео.html
Great video - it's nice to see someone doing production work, most videos are one-offs and those are hard to scale up. One question about the bowl bit. What speed are you running (IPM) for that large of stepover and depth of cut - I'm running the same bit but only half that depth and it struggles in walnut at about 90 IPM? Thanks for the info!
I love these. Great video about the process. I’m jumping on Etsy to find an SVG like this. Do you have file that you’d be willing to sell? Thanks for sharing the total time as well.
Great video and very efficient process. Would you be willing to share how you figure a price/tray? For example is it wood cost + Time X desired hour rate + some profit margin or start at what price the market will bear and work backwards from there? I am trying to generate some income from hobby to supplement retirement but custom one offs require to mush time to be profitable at cost ppl are willing to pay it seems.
Thanks. There are a lot of ways to come up with a price but for wholesale I try to aim for 60% of retail. I think the formula you shared is better for larger items, its really hard to use on smaller items, like the CNC makes. Recently I started using the 6x method. This is where you take the cost of materials and multiply it by 6. I then take that number and compare it to the market research I've done and adjust accordingly. At the end of the day, a product is only worth what someone is willing to pay. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the support! I'm using the Shapeoko Pro XXL. There is a wide range of CNCs on the market. It really depends on your goals, your budget, and the space you have.
Unfortunately, I don't. I bought mine from @klingsporwoodworkingshop online. There are some you can buy on Amazon but I've never used them and am not sure about the quality.
At 1:24 He said, "This are a little thicker than 4 quarter. A little over one inch". I have never heard anyone using 4 quart inch. Well, it's one quarter, half, 3 quarter...
Hardwood board sizes are described much differently than standard lumber from home improvement stores. Third coast craftsman has a video on buying hardwood that covers the entire buying process.
Did you say that your lumber supplier doesn't let you choose your boards? That's F'd up. I would NEVER go back to a place like that. All my suppliers in Denver let me choose so that I can make the best choice for my projects.
Cool idea - I just hate seeing CNC'ers do extra unnecessary work (like 12:12). Why not set this up as a 2-sided job, do a roundover toolpath for the edges, and THEN cut out with a 1/8" compression bit to avoid tabs? 🤔
This could work too. I think it would be a wash when it comes to time and effort for a couple reasons. The first being work holding, a vacuum bed would be the solution. The second is tool changes, and an automatic tool changer would be the answer here. Nothing a cool 20k couldn't solve.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I made 24 Trays in one day. Check it out here ruclips.net/video/TmJDloNk7rQ/видео.html
Where do you sell these trays?
@@raymondvatter5576 ⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹9⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹99⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹⁹9⁹99⁹⁹9⁹9⁹⁹9⁹⁹
@@scottcutting3474 that tells me nothing
I have never replied to any Utube channel before. But I do watch alot of videos while my chair. I can only think that was a case of the sleepy thumb. Sorry about that. No disrespect intended. Keep up the food work.
Good work,
Nice work! Advice on improving efficiency, have a couple of template boards or jigs. For this, just a thin sheet of plywood that your boards are screwed into would work. This way you set up between cuts and throw the whole batch on at once. Once that run is done, pull off the whole batch and throw on the next. No down time with unscrewing and screwing. This can of course be incorporated into your cut files for consistency and efficiency
some people have the gift of being able to explain clearly and succinctly - they keep it moving without the viewer getting bored. dude, you are that guy! these are so much fun to watch and very efficient. thank you for having a RUclips channel!
Thanks so much!
Nice to see someone break down the production time. I’m always curious to know. Thanks!
For sure, thought it would be helpful
@@AndyBirdBuilds do you have the financials broken down, just out of curiosity : )
Great job!!. I'd recomend making the cut out with a 1/8" router bit instead of 1/4". I use most of the time 1/8" bits to cut out pieces and this allow me to keep the CNC and the router (a DeWalt 2 1/4 HP) working with the less possible effort.
Hi Andy, for your thinner boards could you have cut them a bit longer and then put 2 boards top to tail with the main board next to the handle on the other one just to squeeze them a bit closer together
Love the idea of the CNC working away while you’re doing other stuff. Nice work, thanks for sharing!
Its great when you get things dialed in
Looks awesome thank you for sharing your awesome project with us today, Stay safe and healthy from Henrico County Virginia, I just purchased my own Master CNC recently.
Congrats on your new cnc!
Great walk-through of your process, Andy. I'm on a smaller CNC, so it's nice to see what I can look forward to for laying out multiple parts when I move up to something larger. I make something similar and did a bunch of them in silver maple and a few in walnut based on what I had on-hand. Walnut outsells silver maple about 10 to 1 for me.
Happy to share. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for sharing Andy 👍🏻
For sure!
I've had great luck cleaning up the sides of my pieces from the cnc with the ridgid oscillating edge sander. Works great removing tabs and marks from bit step downs while keeping the edge square and corners sharp. Great video!
Thanks for watching! I agree that sander is amazing. I have it and go back and forth which method I like most
Great insights into your process. Interesting comment about the collet slipping. Garrett over at IDC Woodcraft just mentioned that in a video. He suggested blowing out the collet at each bit change.
I just saw that! It really is a good tip, its sneaks up on you really fast!
@@AndyBirdBuilds Yes it does. I've had it happen on my router table. Except I started cutting shallower not deeper. Much easier to recover from.
Great to see your process, really helpful, I just bought a shapeoko 4xxx today, I cant wait to start my journey
Wonderful! Thats exciting!
Need that sanding wheel!
Do you think you could use that CNC router for stone?
those are so awesome ill be making those to sell at the market
I’m super curious about the floppy sanding head you used in the drill press? I need one of those!!! LOL
Here it is! www.woodworkingshop.com/product/FS32999/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA1-6sBhAoEiwArqlGPmFtd7EYWO365wiFZza2QmUrqbIwQ_Q7i4H9rJdDHgGyYUM2W-Du4xoCqKQQAvD_BwE
Got a link for that star sander on your drill press?
I cut parts for the artist's easel I manufacture that require a 1/16" round over on both sides. I mill both sides with Amana Tool - 56142 Solid Carbide Pt. Cutting Roundover 1/16 Radius x 9/64 Dia x 7/32 x 1 before milling the profile with the end mill. It requires a precision fixture to hold the parts and precise installation of the bits. However, it saves a lot of hand work.
Good job! Thank you!
Superb brother. 👌👌👌
Thank you!👊
Would love to get the file for these to try and make some.
Good job man!
Thank you! Cheers!
Do you have a link to that sanding star on your drill press?
www.woodworkingshop.com/product/DY93167/?dfw_tracker=111965-1790&gclid=CjwKCAjw4KyJBhAbEiwAaAQbE2TOBIDiR9nvTuWhynNuyWOc7NQhAsBqQpHWVHVnzvC2ut8WxBdmhxoCk5YQAvD_BwE
Nicw work and nice piece of CNC equipment you have there.
Thanks so much!
What was that thing sticking out of your drill press to sand with. Been looking for something like that and I have no idea. how to find one.
amzn.to/3ttGEuQ
Nice work. I'm a little behind with production equipment but I'm struggling to get there.
For sure! It's taken me 3 years to get to this point. Keep at it, you'll get there.
Hi Andy just found your channel and what you are doing is exactly what I hope to do in the UK. From a commercial point of view I would interested to know how you would price a job like and what sort of profit you would aim to make . Planning a night in tonight to binge what all your videos. Great job 👍
Nice to see a breakdown of production time like that, not many others will do that.
I can see that you have some challenges connected to using a "hobby" cnc for production purposes.
The reason I'm calling the shapeoko a "hobby" cnc is that the machine is to "weak" to get a decent speed when cutting.
My shopbot PRS Alpha 4'x8' currently cuts with a ,25 compression bit at 120ipm,
and I seem to recall in one of your videos that you were specifying a cutting speed 20ipm.
From your screen it seemed like the cutting toolpaths was taking 29min and with my machine it'll take 5min.
In a production environment that is a big difference... but that point also touches on stuff you talked about in one of your other videos about running a full time cnc workshop vs. a part time "sideshow"
And you'll probably have to sell a whole lot more of your products justifying having a Shopbot in the basement
I'm not sure if these tips will help but here they are...
(After reviewing the video a couple of times it seems like youre already doing some of this,
but I'll keep them in the comment for others to see.) :-)
1. Share cut lines. Offset the parts with the width of your bit + a fraction but make sure to keep the tabs between the parts lined up or the parts will break loose and get damaged. It'll keep your bits sharper for a longer time, they don't have to do all the full width cutting you're doing now.
2. If possible step away from fusion360 toolpaths, in my opinion they do a
whole lot of stuff they don't need to since they're intended for metal milling.
3. Make sure your toolpaths penetrate your spoilboard, you'll easily sand away the tabs in the sanding process and if you're not doing a roundover on the bottom it'll take away the whole step of routing off the bottom "edge". If you're doing a roundover it might be possible to remove the tabs in the same process depending on your roundover radius...
(I'm sorry this comment escalated into a small article...)
Thank you for your comment. You're right, the Shapeoko is not a production machine, but that doesn't mean it can't be used in small-scale production.
I'm running a .25 compression bit at .125doc and 100-120ipm. I would say that is excellent for a $3,000 machine in my basement. I've never run anything as slow as 20ipm.
The other issue I run into is the CNC can cut them faster than I can finish them (sanding, routing, applying finish). So I need to focus on making that process more efficient. Making the CNC cut them faster would not increase my overall efficiency at this point.
@@AndyBirdBuilds compression bits really shine when cutting full depth in one pass to take advantage of pulling the fibers towards the middle of the board. You can save a little money running downcut bits (it also helps hold the workpiece in place) or upcuts if your clamping is good and you need the chip evacuation. I often use 1/8 compression bits on 3/4 material cutting full depth without tabs. The compressed sawdust left in the cut holds the workpiece great.
Interesting. I know that compression bits really shine with full depth cuts, but I don't think thats possible with the Shapeoko. I use them in this tray scenario because it leaves a clean top and bottom. What CNC are you doing this on? With the 3/4'' cuts, what material is this on? Thanks for sharing!
@@AndyBirdBuilds I'm running an older shopbot prsalpha. I think the shapeoko could handle it with the 1/8 cutter. I'm using the 1/4 shank 1/8 cutter compression bit from spetool on Amazon. I'm cutting around 80ipm. It's a low load and doesn't take as much clamping compared to running a 1/4 cutter. I ramp in the cut and see minor burning at end where the bit stops to exit. I hope this helps! Thanks for your videos. I hope to start documenting more of my work and your videos are great inspiration.
@@InspiredCraftsman Thanks so much for the information. What is your spindle speed? This would be awesome if it works on the Shapeoko. Thanks for watching my videos!
Great breakdown of the process. Keep the videos coming!
You got it!
Nice!!! Working on getting going full time. Be interested in how to find buyers for production runs. Still looking on where to find requests. Great explanation on breaking down the amount of time required.
Awesome! This was a wholesale order from another business.
What can I make from old wood?
Hey Andy. Great channel. I can’t find a video on this issue I’m having. I’m making a bowl that’s 1” deep and I want to put a design on the bottom with a v bit but it will take hours because the router will come up an inch to my zero height each time. If it was not a bowl the cut would only take a few minutes. Is there a way to keep my v bit from doing this? Any help would be appreciated.
Hey, thanks! Setting your z-height to the floor of your tray should fix this
@@AndyBirdBuilds so after I cut out the bowl. Stop the cut and zero out the v bIt to the bottom of my bowl then start the cut over? I can’t do that if I’m cutting multiple bowls at one time can I? The bit won’t clear one bowl to get to another bowl will it? Thanks
but howmuch did you sell the cheese trays for?
great video amigo, thank you
Glad you liked it!
hey! I'm just thinking, Could you not have maybe sardined the tray contour? at the very least you could save a few inches for the thicker boards and squeeze a few more trays out of them, but I was thinking it could let you double up on those boards you thought only had a single part in
Yeah I tried. The geometry of the tray wouldn't allow it
Does the lumber yard not allow you to pick your own boards?
Not at the wholesale lumber yard near me. They offer a really good price and the quality is good, but you don't get to pick out your pieces there.
Hi Andy, thanks for the very informative video. It is a beautiful, original project, but I’m just curious as to what this type of tray is used for?
Great video, lots of great info, but... Do yourself a favour and flip them over to do the round over on the CNC. Make a female jig tight enough to hold the parts upside down without slipping. A vacuum bed would be a good option too. All extra cost and effort to implement, but worth their weight in gold to get rid of manual work. A tool changer is a great investment also, but not sure what options you have with your machine, probably not enough Z height maybe. Keep it up champ, great channel.
I guess i did watch this video. I don’t remember it. LOL. How much do you sell your trays for? I would assume these trays in a big bulk order may get a discounted price. But if you were to sell them at a show… what would be your price?
Thanks for watching! I sold these for $14/each wholesale. $25 - $30 at shows. But it really depends on the demographic your selling to
What would you sell an individual board like this for? I'm debating about buying a CNC and doing smaller projects like this would be the main schtick of it for me. I know that markets vary, but I'm curious as to what you sell these for. Thanks!
They are beautiful. Do you sell the coding for that?
What is the size of the tray?
Approximately 16"x3"x.875"
Would love to get into this. Seems very overwhelming though.
Great video and product that you put together. However, you might want to check into using the accelerator on a surface which can potentially come in contact with food, and thus be ingested. Most accelerators are based on amines, which are nasty little chemicals (think ammonia). I highly recommend that you check the SDS for the Starbond accelerator proprietary ingredient "Acute Potential Health Effects" .
Thanks, this is definitely something to consider when using any product. Its also a giant rabbit hole and one question leads to the next. A tiny dot of Cured CA glue recessed into wood with accelerator sanded flat underneath several coats of a food safe finish doesn't seem like a problem to me. If the surface was going to be used to cut on, that would be a different conversation.
Hello, was wondering which router you changed to. i have the dewalt shown in previous videos and on setting 1 it runs at 16,000 RPM which sometimes it too fast for certain jobs.
I've ran all three. Dewalt, Makita, and Carbide 3d's router which is essentially the Makita. Makita has a larger rpm range. I believe it can go as low as 12,000rpm
Thanks for the info, really enjoy your videos
Where does an order like that come from?
Its a wholesale order from another business
@@AndyBirdBuilds can we ask for a cost and sale price breakdown? if you dont want to thats fine. if you get more orders like this will you ever get a 4x8 machine like an avid cnc?
@@AndrewPetzold Yes, I'd like to see even an approximate profit margin breakdown. You spent almost a full work week of time and you're selling wholesale, so I'm really curious as to what your actual net is per board.
How does the sanding star paper hold up over the course of the build?
I went through 2 of them on this 100 trays
Do you have any financial breakdowns? I'd love to see the ROI on this 100 board order.
Andy - your collet loosened due to friction and heat. the tiny threads on the shaft are susceptible to expanding and contracting, thus having your collet loosen on you, slow down your feed rate and raise your cut depth.....or use a brand new bit. cheers bud.
Nice work Brother! Not to be a smart ass but the sanding star is called a mop sander.
Everyone is asking for one in the comments. Lol
Cool job!
Couple of questions...and I did note your XYZ orientation point in the lower left corner.
1. Why does the thickness have to be exact (but assuming to be within a small variance)? Thickness isn't integral to the design. So why couldn't you just do your cutouts either x" deep, or x" deep from the top of the piece?
2. Boards that weren't 5 1/2" wide are assumed to be within a small variance though. There looked like a lot of room between the 2 trays for each board. Couldn't you cut down that gap for the remaining boards and still get 2 from each?
Just curious on the process. 😉
Thanks, Kathy!
The thickness is important because of the machining, I want to be removing the same amount each time. My RPM, Depth of Cut, and Inches Per Minute are all set up to cut a certain amount each time. If one piece is, 1/4'' thicker than an another, the machine will have to work that much harder and possibly leaving a less than desirable result.
I tried this to squeeze as much as possible out of each board. There is roughly 3/8'' between them the trays from each board. I'm using a 1/4'' bit so I needed to allow room for it to cut without cutting into the next.
@@AndyBirdBuilds thanks for the explanation. I'm learning more about CNC's every day! 😉
Adny can you share with us how you got your order for the trays
Jeff
These went to another business for resale.
Hi! I own a shapeoko Pro, and I’m a novice on this cnc and software. How can I make the bridges on the toolpath so the piece stays on the stock?
Hello! By bridges do you mean tabs? If so, in carbide create, its in where you create the toolpath. Look for the tabs button
@@AndyBirdBuilds hi! Thank you so much. I’ve been using ArtCam and the name for that is “bridges”. Thanks again!
Thanx interesting channel. What is the CNC router name?
Thanks for stopping by! shop.carbide3d.com/andybirdbuilds
@@AndyBirdBuilds thanx
Beautiful boards!
Glad you like them!
what type of restaurant ordered the the serving trays. thx
Another business purchased them, not a restaurant. Because of my agreement with the business I can't say who. Sorry, wish I could
So my comment is on your board. I have been thinking about upgrading my machine to t-track, but I see you still end up screwing the boards down. I want to end up doing as little damage ro bed without sacrificing speed.
Really cool video, I am from the UK and am trying to do something similar here. I was wondering how do you calculate speeds and feed and depth of pass?
Thanks! I find this helpful wiki.shapeoko.com/index.php/materials
What is your price per board? Could you do a breakdown of cost and profit, is this more of a hobby or business.
Because if the nature of my contract I'm not allowed to disclose that information. That's why this video is focused solely on the process.
Can u say who bought the trays and what type of food goes on the trays. They appear too small for a serving tray.
Could be used for fish or similarly shaped things.
This was a wholesale order from a business. Its for cheese and crackers.
What was that sanding thing called that you had in your drill press?
This is what I was using www.woodworkingshop.com/product/dy93166/
@@AndyBirdBuilds Thank you. I make trays on my CNC as well and this sanding star will help me a lot. Thanks for all the great video's!
nice one, how did you design the trays?
I designed them myself using Fusion 360
Nice job!!!! great video,,, Carbide create I take you are using??
Yes, for this particular setup
Is CA glue foodsafe?
Great question and as far as I know it’s not safe. But maybe this product is different?
Where did you purchase sanding disk from ?
Great videos mahalo
Thank you for watching! I bought mine from @klingsporwoodworkingshop online. There are some you can buy on Amazon but I've never used them and am not sure about the quality.
I have the shapeoko3 but still can't drag myself more than two seconds away from the emergency stop button, which is time consuming and boring to watch. Just as I start to feel more confident and push the machine a little harder, something messes up and puts me firmly back in my place, like missed steps from the CNC (belt slippage, dust, blunt bit, flex, too fast etc).
e.g I thought I'd challenge myself a little so I took a knackered old small oak table that had been brutally painted and went to work. Inlayed with two different wood types on the top. I was chuffed with my results. Now I just had to face off the underside of the table. The one inch facing off bit went for a swim in my nearly finished piece, leaving me with little options for repair because of the way the table was joined (metal).
Luckily I was hovering over the stop button as per usual, just a couple of seconds more and the bit was going to pick a fight with the metal threaded hold down inserts on the waste board and probably break the machine, possibly even cause a fire.
I got back on the horse after some analysis of what happened (missed steps in Z axis) but still have to respect that it isn't a race horse! Still love it, although consistency is hard to achieve with a machine with fairly loose tolerances.
I seem to remember you started on the shapeoko 3? I see you have the pro now. I have upgraded Z axis now but the other belts still hold me to account.
I did start with the 3. I've noticed a huge difference between the 3 and the Pro. It's good that you upgraded the z axis. That was the 3's weakest point. I have my fair share of oops but it's mostly due to operator error. I've never really had a problem with missing steps though
@@AndyBirdBuilds I think I had too much tension on the Z axis belt, that along with the original Z axis not being manufactured completely true.
Could you share your feeds and speeds? I would like to cut some walnut but I'm just getting started with mdf and pine for test cuts.
I'm always hesitant to share this information because there are so many factors affecting it and every job setup is so different. But here is a good place to start. wiki.shapeoko.com/index.php/materials
@@AndyBirdBuilds that seems to be pretty common. I have only had my shapeoko pro for two weeks and it seems like there is no correct answer. Just rough guidelines. Some people are very conservative with speeds and others are running so fast it blows me away. I'm starting in the middle with scrap mdf and pine just to see how everything works.
Thanks for sharing the information!
@@fo22estgump57 I went through that phase on my shapeoko pro. Finding feeds and speeds is annoyingly difficult, and in hindsight justly so, due to bit choice, material differences, cutting depth, etc. Anyway I set my router at a static 15000rpm using a cheap laser tachometer from Amazon, then I start a given bit/material/cut combo at 50 IPM. If it's cutting well I overdrive the program in Carbide Motion in 10% increments while watching the quality. With a few tests you can calculate your optimal feed rate and use that in the future. Eventually I grew a list of feeds that work for my projects.
How long does it take to cut those 100 on the CNC?
From rough lumber to final product, about 3 work days. I have a video coming out this friday about this
you use fusion 360 for your layout?
No. I used Carbide Create
So 36 hrs what was your profit?
This is a great idea. Is it your original design? I think anything made of walnut is beautiful. There is a lot more handwork involved even with a CNC. I have thought about buying one for a few ideas I have, but I'm afraid the setup with the computer may be beyond my abilities though, lol. Great video on what goes into making a product to sell. Best of luck Andy!!! PS- Is this a full time job or just a side /hobby of yours?
It is my original design. I have a video that goes into what it takes to get started with CNC. It will give a good idea of what to expect. And yes this is my full time job. ruclips.net/video/Ujt3h8TlMxE/видео.html
Nice! So where do you sell and how much?
Curious what brand of CNC do you have ?
@carbide3d Shapeoko
So Andy how do you like your shapeoko Pro cnc and what router do you use
Jeff Peters
Love my Shapeoko Pro. I use the Carbide 3d router that came with it
Great video - it's nice to see someone doing production work, most videos are one-offs and those are hard to scale up. One question about the bowl bit. What speed are you running (IPM) for that large of stepover and depth of cut - I'm running the same bit but only half that depth and it struggles in walnut at about 90 IPM? Thanks for the info!
I'm running my bowl bit at 100 IPM with no issues. For the tighter stepover I'm running it at 120ipm. 12-15,000 RPM
@@AndyBirdBuilds Thanks for the info - I'll have to run some more tests. It's always nerve racking kicking up the speed on cuts!
@@AndyBirdBuilds hey Andy, I have been running my bowl bit at 18000 rpm. Is that to fast for a bit this large?
Hi man! Been following you for a while now.
Can you tell me what software you are using for making the 3d and the gcode
I use Carbide Create or Fusion 360
Is starbond food safe?
Its not, but after applying a couple coats of finish it doesn't contact food.
So what do you charge for something like this??
I love these. Great video about the process. I’m jumping on Etsy to find an SVG like this. Do you have file that you’d be willing to sell? Thanks for sharing the total time as well.
Happy you enjoyed the process. Unfortunately this isn't a design I'm allowed to sell.
You could make a video on how to search for wholesale customers.
I think thats a great idea
Great video and very efficient process. Would you be willing to share how you figure a price/tray? For example is it wood cost + Time X desired hour rate + some profit margin or start at what price the market will bear and work backwards from there? I am trying to generate some income from hobby to supplement retirement but custom one offs require to mush time to be profitable at cost ppl are willing to pay it seems.
Thanks. There are a lot of ways to come up with a price but for wholesale I try to aim for 60% of retail. I think the formula you shared is better for larger items, its really hard to use on smaller items, like the CNC makes. Recently I started using the 6x method. This is where you take the cost of materials and multiply it by 6. I then take that number and compare it to the market research I've done and adjust accordingly. At the end of the day, a product is only worth what someone is willing to pay. Hope this helps.
@@AndyBirdBuilds Thx. I definitely appreciate the insight.
Great stuff, can I ask which CNC router you’re using? Or if you had any recommendations for a CNC? There’s such a huge range on the market.
Thanks for the support! I'm using the Shapeoko Pro XXL. There is a wide range of CNCs on the market. It really depends on your goals, your budget, and the space you have.
hey dude, great video. do you have an affiliate link for that sanding star thing you had on your drill press?
Unfortunately, I don't. I bought mine from @klingsporwoodworkingshop online. There are some you can buy on Amazon but I've never used them and am not sure about the quality.
So I’m guessing this was an Etsy re-sale shop order?
If you had cut the boards a little longer you could have flipped them end for end and got t trays wide out of narrower stock.
Good idea, but my CNC bed isn't big enough for this to work.
Would you sell the file?
No, this is an exclusive product for my customer
At 1:24 He said, "This are a little thicker than 4 quarter. A little over one inch". I have never heard anyone using 4 quart inch. Well, it's one quarter, half, 3 quarter...
It's very common in the woodworking and lumber industries.
Hardwood board sizes are described much differently than standard lumber from home improvement stores. Third coast craftsman has a video on buying hardwood that covers the entire buying process.
Do you sell your products? Where? I would love to buy a cheese board
This was an order for another business, I don't sell them retail. I do sell some products myself during the holidays on my website. Andybirdbuilds.com
Did you say that your lumber supplier doesn't let you choose your boards? That's F'd up. I would NEVER go back to a place like that. All my suppliers in Denver let me choose so that I can make the best choice for my projects.
Cool idea - I just hate seeing CNC'ers do extra unnecessary work (like 12:12). Why not set this up as a 2-sided job, do a roundover toolpath for the edges, and THEN cut out with a 1/8" compression bit to avoid tabs? 🤔
This could work too. I think it would be a wash when it comes to time and effort for a couple reasons. The first being work holding, a vacuum bed would be the solution. The second is tool changes, and an automatic tool changer would be the answer here. Nothing a cool 20k couldn't solve.
@@AndyBirdBuilds ha.
I said "see what I'm making here ? , yeah he says , a lot of dust ...
You minimize waste but you have basic woodworking mistake.