I made my first 3d fish last week . It came out very good and took about 1hour for rough cut with a 6mm flute and 1 1/2 for final finish cut with a 3.175 ball nose. Looking into a downcut bit for the first rough cut
Great Video!!! Would be nice to see another video on other bits, like ball nose finishing bits. The sizes and how they work. How they cut and when to use them. Cheers Kully
Well I think it would help a lot of Shapeoko owners that have the bit setter and bit runner. I know from experience that if you don't understand it fully bad things happen. Jeff
A question on the compression bit with the 1/4" change. If my CNC is using the Makita for its spindle, would it be able to handle that 1/4" plunge? Thanks.
I have a project that needs a triangle cut out of the center with sharp corners so I am thinking of using my 10degree engraving bit to clean up the last bit of the pocket. Any other suggestions? I cant find any videos on using engraving bits on the CNC for wood and super fine detail. My tapered ball nose wound work here…has to reach .505 down before cutting a .180 deep clearing. Hmmmm
What would one use if you’re cutting a channel/slot/key way in which a clean top surface is desired, but also a clean bottom surface? Again, a channel that doesn’t go all the way through the work piece. The depth of the slot is .35 inches. Thanks.
Can you use a downcut bit for the first pass and then go to an upcut bit for the final pass through the part as a way to get get a clean top and bottom surface, or will the chips being ejected on the last pass with the upcut cause issues with the top edge of the part?
Does SpeTool have specs for the spiral change? I don't see any info on this on their up/down bits. If there isn't a spec given can you just use a micrometer to measure the bit on where the change occurs? I would assume it would be visually obvious on where this is on the bit. If we're still on track here, Is that value then used for the routers plunge rate?
Is it possible to reverse the rotation direction to turn an up cut bit to a down cut bit? Also, can you do the first top pass with a down cut but and then do the bottom pass with an up cut bit?
Reversing might not work well because the tip of the bit would still be designed for a clockwise spin. The side of a bit definitely does a lot of the cutting as it moves horizontally, but you might be left with an uneven face. Could be worth a try, but I’d rather use a compression bit than set up two toolpaths and do an extra bit change.
Great video, bro. Very informative. Just wondering: Do you use a spoil board on your machines? It seems that you are obliged to replace the machine bed slats - on a regular basis, otherwise.
@@ryanlangan1060 I arranged mine in a similar way, and I have never needed to replace anything, even after 12 years of use, due to the use of sacrificial materials. That's what I mean, by spoil board.
Andy - Shapeoko owner for 3 yrs now. Both my 1/4" upcut and downcut bits are discolored and I assume are getting dull. Time to replace them. I like your video on "Best bit to use" and I have a question. You show the Max Depth as .52000" for both bits. Bits&Bits shows the max cut length of 1". Why are your depths so conservative?
Hola perdón por escribir en español, es mi primer cnc y tengo problemas, tengo una madera de Zalam de 25 mm y en mi cnc hago un círculo vacío de 12 mm de profundidad, el primer intento fue con una broca de 4 hilos up de 1/4 de grosor, la segunda prueba fue con una broca de compresión de 1/4 pero solo perforó 4 mm por pasada y para hacer el cambio de filo por lo menos tenía que haberlo hecho con 6 mm según tu experiencia, PERO el problema son las caras que deja después del corte, no son lisas, tersas, son peludas y eso me va a costar tiempo de lijado, el Spindel que tengo es de 300 w y de 12,000 revoluciones no sé si le falte velocidad o si llevo muy rápido el avance de la broca, son tantas cosas que por esta razón decidí escribirte y preguntar que debo hacer 🙏🏻🙏🏻 Saludos desde Cancún México Fernando Pérez
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Thank you! I'm a newbie CNC owner and the bits were really confusing.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Excellent descriptions. I've been using a router for 35 years and bits have come so far!
Great demo. I have a number of compression bits, and wasn't aware of the short flute until watching this... just ordered two. Thanks!
I think your video is very appreciated. The up and down bit is the best tool than the signs guy must know about
I made my first 3d fish last week . It came out very good and took about 1hour for rough cut with a 6mm flute and 1 1/2 for final finish cut with a 3.175 ball nose. Looking into a downcut bit for the first rough cut
Thank You that was extremely helpful for me being a new bee to CNC . Bought the Shapeokoe PRO XXL.
Great to hear!
Great Video!!! Would be nice to see another video on other bits, like ball nose finishing bits. The sizes and how they work. How they cut and when to use them.
Cheers
Kully
Noted!
Thank you for sharing this info, helps to shorten the learning curve.
For sure! Glad to help
That was excellent. Educational and articulated exceptionally well. I appreciate it!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.
Great video bro. Still fine tuning how I do things after a year.
Thanks man! I'm always learning something new in this world of CNC
Great video... I was looking for exactly this information earlier this week!
Perfect!
Super helpful video! I appreciate the effort you put in to both explaining and showing.
Glad it was helpful!
Andy have you ever done a video on doing tool changes using the bit setter and bit runner..that might show the different screens in carbide motion 542
I haven't. I've been thinking about doing a video on the Bitrsetter but haven't because its specific to the Shapeoko
Well I think it would help a lot of Shapeoko owners that have the bit setter and bit runner. I know from experience that if you don't understand it fully bad things happen. Jeff
@@resorter66 Good point
Very interesting about the spiral change point - Unfortunately many of the router bit manufactures dont seem to specify this piece of information!
Drill bit for initial hole then then probably an end mill to widen it then similar bit you see here if its milled from a solid piece
That was great. Very informative and explained perfectly. Thank you!
Great to hear!
Great video, espeacially for newbies like me
Great to hear! Welcome to the channel
A question on the compression bit with the 1/4" change. If my CNC is using the Makita for its spindle, would it be able to handle that 1/4" plunge? Thanks.
There are a lot of other factors to consider for success, but if it comes down to the just the plunge of the Makita yes it can do it.
@@AndyBirdBuilds Yes, certainly other factors. Thanks for the reply. Still learning on what I can do with the CNC. Thanks again. Love your videos.
Learned a lot about these bits and look forward to learning about other bits like V Bits. Thanks! 👍
Glad to hear it!
I use single flute straight flute bits for almost everything. Cuts are clean and smooth top and bottom.
Thanks! I recently read this somewhere and was intrigued. I'm going to give it a try. Any tips?
@@AndyBirdBuilds: Did you try it?
I have a project that needs a triangle cut out of the center with sharp corners so I am thinking of using my 10degree engraving bit to clean up the last bit of the pocket. Any other suggestions? I cant find any videos on using engraving bits on the CNC for wood and super fine detail. My tapered ball nose wound work here…has to reach .505 down before cutting a .180 deep clearing. Hmmmm
Its really hard to say without knowing more details. But the smaller the radius the bit has, the tighter the corners you can get
Great video, and super informative! Glad I watched.
Great! Thanks for watching!
Do you have any bit recommended for cutting/ drilling 1/4-1/2” width holes
Very good information Andy!
Glad it was helpful!
What would one use if you’re cutting a channel/slot/key way in which a clean top surface is desired, but also a clean bottom surface?
Again, a channel that doesn’t go all the way through the work piece. The depth of the slot is .35 inches.
Thanks.
I would use a downcut bit
@@AndyBirdBuilds thank you! And many thanks for taking the time to reply too - I shall give that a try. 👍🏽
Very informative buddy. Thanks for putting it together and breaking it down to my level (kindergarten) 😂🤙🏼
Glad it was helpful!
But what kind of bit is the best for clean sides after cutting ?
Can you use a downcut bit for the first pass and then go to an upcut bit for the final pass through the part as a way to get get a clean top and bottom surface, or will the chips being ejected on the last pass with the upcut cause issues with the top edge of the part?
In theory this would work but it wouldn't be worth the headache to setup the tool paths
@@AndyBirdBuilds Thanks for the reply! Getting my CNC in April!
Can you do these deep cuts on hardwoods with the compression bits
That would depend on your machine, spindle, and workholding
Shapeoko XXL, their spindle, work holding is
Oops optional
Sounds like a bit i need ?question did you or do you recommend plunge ramp in with that bit and the others.
It really depends on the material. For more woods it isn't necessary
@@AndyBirdBuilds what about hard maple and walnut
Does SpeTool have specs for the spiral change? I don't see any info on this on their up/down bits. If there isn't a spec given can you just use a micrometer to measure the bit on where the change occurs? I would assume it would be visually obvious on where this is on the bit. If we're still on track here, Is that value then used for the routers plunge rate?
Yes that would work
The plunge rate is the speed the bit moves vertically into the material, which is different from the depth of the initial pass.
Where do you purchase your compression or down cut bits
Bitsandbits.com Use code ANDYBIRD to save a couple bucks!
I didn’t see a reply lol
cleared up a lot of misconceptions I had
Glad it was helpful!
Is it possible to reverse the rotation direction to turn an up cut bit to a down cut bit?
Also, can you do the first top pass with a down cut but and then do the bottom pass with an up cut bit?
Yes, if you want to reverse your spindle or router, of course. If you want to do the second, of course you can too. Just takes more time.
Reversing might not work well because the tip of the bit would still be designed for a clockwise spin. The side of a bit definitely does a lot of the cutting as it moves horizontally, but you might be left with an uneven face. Could be worth a try, but I’d rather use a compression bit than set up two toolpaths and do an extra bit change.
Great video, bro.
Very informative.
Just wondering: Do you use a spoil board on your machines?
It seems that you are obliged to replace the machine bed slats - on a regular basis, otherwise.
It clearly shows a spoil board in the video. He just divides it up into slats so he has access to the T-slots.
@@ryanlangan1060
I arranged mine in a similar way, and I have never needed to replace anything, even after 12 years of use, due to the use of sacrificial materials.
That's what I mean, by spoil board.
I us to use when have PVC with Vinyl and vinyl over laminate
Great info here Andy
Great to hear, Alan!
Andy - Shapeoko owner for 3 yrs now. Both my 1/4" upcut and downcut bits are discolored and I assume are getting dull. Time to replace them. I like your video on "Best bit to use" and I have a question. You show the Max Depth as .52000" for both bits. Bits&Bits shows the max cut length of 1". Why are your depths so conservative?
I’m pretty sure that is the depth of cut for that toolpath. If he’s cutting .5” MDF, then he’d be cutting .020” deeper to ensure a cutout.
Great Video !!
Welcome to the channel, glad you liked it!
Great explanation! Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Very helpful
Hola perdón por escribir en español, es mi primer cnc y tengo problemas, tengo una madera de Zalam de 25 mm y en mi cnc hago un círculo vacío de 12 mm de profundidad, el primer intento fue con una broca de 4 hilos up de 1/4 de grosor, la segunda prueba fue con una broca de compresión de 1/4 pero solo perforó 4 mm por pasada y para hacer el cambio de filo por lo menos tenía que haberlo hecho con 6 mm según tu experiencia, PERO el problema son las caras que deja después del corte, no son lisas, tersas, son peludas y eso me va a costar tiempo de lijado, el Spindel que tengo es de 300 w y de 12,000 revoluciones no sé si le falte velocidad o si llevo muy rápido el avance de la broca, son tantas cosas que por esta razón decidí escribirte y preguntar que debo hacer 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Saludos desde Cancún México
Fernando Pérez
Is that the Shapeoko 4?
Shapeoko Pro
Great video very helpful.
Amazing.
Thanks for watching!
i subscriber to your channel i like your videos take care
Glad to hear, thanks for the support!
Thank you very much
You are welcome
Thanks!
For sure!
My Shapeoko Pro can handle a 0.25 inch cut, as long as I screw my stock down.
Mine too
I am a metal worker, never know this was a thing with wood routers.
Nice! Thanks for watching
It's also used for machining composites and maybe other stuff.
3:51 you and me both brother
Glad I'm not the only one!