@@defenderofmen11 My experience has been that the Mid-drive motor set ups are more tolerant of hard use. I'm a large rider and ride in very hilly terrain and I have burned up multiple Hub-drive motors. Now that I'm using Mid Drives and using the gears on the bike properly, I haven't had any issues with my motor or drive line. However, like all mechanical things, there is wear over time and I realize I will need to replace parts. I carry spare chain parts on my rides so I can repair a broken chain. In addition, I had a spare rear cassette for when the time comes that I need to replace it. I have owned my current eBike for over 3 years and have over 4000 miles on the original chain and rear cassette. I'll probably replace both sometime this year, but they are still operating well. Stay safe and carry a tool kit with you.
Thanks. You would be surprised to find out how many riders I've seen, both experienced and new riders, that leave the chain in the highest gear, (Small Cog), and never use the gears. Really bad for the entire drive system and really heats up the motor. Having ridden pedal only bikes for many years, I'm pretty used to down shifting, especially when coming to a stop or on hills. Have you had any issues with your eBike drivetrain?
@@GreyBeardEBiking No drivetrain issues whatsoever, but I do what you advocate. I have experience from motorcycle riding and bicycle riding in my youth. I also drove a stick shift car. Glad I still remember!
@@itsaboutsuccess Ah yes ... the manual transmission. My jeep is/was a stick shift and I learned on my dad's stick shift Datsun truck. Unfortunately my jeep, My Weekend Mobile, gave up the ghost 2 weeks ago after 310,000 miles. I'm gunna miss her.
@@GreyBeardEBiking Who was to guess that stick shift experience would have future benefits? Seperately, your jeep traveled around the earth more than twelve times... impressive!
@@itsaboutsuccess Yup, she was a very durable machine that shared many adventures together. Already miss her. Like you, I'm really glad I got the experience of a manual transmission. And you're correct, the experience has helped me in other areas.
Cut to the chase and get a Rohloff Speedhub, you won't believe how well a mid-drive and an IGH work together. You won't want to ever go back. I replace my chain every 6 months (approx 3K miles) and flip the Rohloff gear to a new side. Less than $20 and about 30 minutes on the side of the trail anywhere I may be.
Yup, the Rohloff speed hub is a great piece of gear however, I was trying to point out the simple things that can be done with stock gear that will help to extend the life of the eBike drive train. Did you do the install yourself?
@@GreyBeardEBiking Yes and a Rohloff cut my yearly maintenance to the drive train to less than $50 a year. Try replacing the entire gear cluster and see what it costs. Mid-drives can and do tear drive trains to shreds when riders start to ride more aggressively or start loading the bike with gear. The only way to save low-end stock components is to ride soft and easy... which doesn't last long when you start getting experience on your ebike.
If you go to Idaho, you gotta experience the Hiawatha biking trail. one of the most fun and unique in all the land. When the Grey Beard bike King is leaving Cali. you know things are heading south, which is why your're heading north.
Thanks. Yeah, I've been reading about the Hiawatha Trail, and it sounds like a terrific ride and the pictures are beautiful. I love the weather and riding in SoCal but it's so darn expensive for this old, retired engineer turned Grey Beard eBike rider. Plus, Northern Idaho has some beautiful country. Also, in my working days I've lived all over the US, New Zealand, South America, and in Antarctica, so I think I can get used to the weather. If I do end up in Idaho, I should be able to produce some great eBike videos. Have you ever experienced riding in the Pacific Northwest?
Just befor i got my mid drive I built a Shimano IGH into my wheel. My homey was asking "wai not just have the bikeshop stitch it together?" Because I would have to give them $30. And I wouldn't have the chance to learn to do something new. I did have them calculate and cut my new spokes because if I calculated wrong I would be paying for the next set, if they calculate wrong they replace them. The tool to thread them is $200. So that will be for next year.
Thanks for the comment. Sounds like you took on a pretty tough challenge, but you overcame the challenge, learned something, and saved some dough. Congrats.
Thanks for your great question. Generally, it's better to not cycle your motor on an off as it uses a little more battery life. Also, even if your motor is turn off, it's still better to shift to a lower gear as these put much less strain on you drive line, "Chain, gears, pedals, ETC."
@@GreyBeardEBiking I ride a vintage K2 MTB hardtail with a Bafang BBS02 mid drive kit. It is awesome. I am constantly reminding myself to always put it in first gear when I am stopping or even just yielding. Just today I was cruising in PAS 5 and gear 5, when I came to an intersection. I forgot to downshift when I slowed down, and when I started pedaling again I could hear my gears bark at me. learning everyday...
@@banyanstudio That's great. keep me updated on how your setup lasts. I live in Southern California, but I will be moving to North Idaho this summer. (CDA). Maybe We will see each other on the trail sometime.
Just orderd my first e bike which is a mid drive so this will be really useful. Ordered a Specialised turbo levo as i wanted comfort, durability and wanted a nice powerful motor as its 565 watts with 90nm of torque. But wanting to find how to get the most out of it i can.
Thanks for the comment. The Specialized Turbo Levo is a great eBike. You will love it. As far as getting the most out of you eBike, I always recommend following the manufacturers recommendations for maintenance and repair. I don't try to "soup-it-up" with aftermarket speed upgrades. It seems when folks try to do things to the motor or battery outside of the manufacture's recommendations they end up with problems. What type of riding do you do and what part of the country do you ride?
I wouldn't trust myself trying to add anything aftermarket on it 😂 probably change out the grips, pedals, and add a better chain, but keep it mostly stock that way. Be mostly road and some gravel/dirt paths. It's definitely overbiked for my commute to work, which it's 12 miles one way, so I want something comfy but with some oomph on the motor. It's the alloy model I've got as also got £500 off but eventually I may upgrade to higher model down the line but definitely can't wait
@@SubaruWRC1996 Sounds like we think alike with regard to aftermarket accessories. I prefer for my everyday riding to keep everything factory. For me it has worked well and my eBikes tend to las a long while. All this being said, if we were riding some extreme terrain and really challenging the eBike then I would consider some specialty parts. But for now, I'll stay stock. Let me know when you upgrade and how it goes for you. Thanks.
@GreyBeardEBiking will do. Got some new pedals and ordred some floating disc rotors. Will look at changing the break levers and break calipers too and I think I'll change the grips too. Also thought about getting the e bike specific cassette and chain from kmc too
@@SubaruWRC1996 Sorry it took so long to get back to you. Life got in the way. Sounds like you are adding some great accessories. Let me know how they work out. Thanks again.
@@GreyBeardEBiking yes ! Do it! Although your biking opportunities will be less if at all in winter. I toured Idaho 4 times looking for homes with land. Great deals and would have loved to move. But for now I need to stay closer to aging parents. Moved from NorCal to Northern Nevada for now instead. Lots of trails to ride here and Lake Tahoe not to far. Got in a nice ride on a great bike path yesterday from Squaw Valley to Tahoe City. 114 mile trail call the the Tahoe-Pyramid Trail I’m looking at completing next spring. Have friends all over Idaho. Mostly around Boise. I was looking around Coure d’lane very hard. Be sure to checkout McCall, Idaho. Was also top of my list. Great growing small town. I’m was rated as one of the top towns to retire. I might get ti move there in a few more years. Looking for cooler summers. But they do get quite a bit more snow that CDL. Best of luck with your decision. It sure is beautiful up there.
@@joebidendidthat5121 That's an awesome ride. I'm still on my Biktrix Juggernaut Ultra 1000 mid drive. It has been a very reliable ride for me. Had it since Jan 2021. Many great adventures on it.
Thanks for the comment. You have a good eye. Yes, for some of these shots I lowered the seat to make it easier to stop and start for the video. I now have a dropper seat post.
@@johnnylong2049 Thanks. I'm a heavy rider so any burnouts for me a when I'm standing over the top tube. I just installed a new rear tire that's pretty grabby so the eBike might take off on me. Keep on having fun on the eBike my friend.
All of this is old hat old news to all experienced ‘analog’ / non-ebike riders. It’s all the same thing 1. Never shift under load 2. Always downshift before stopping 3. Keep rpm’s high particularly uphill 4. Practice practice practice
Yup, you are exactly right. The problem I see most is from inexperienced eBike riders who never shift or use the gears. Mostly they put it into high gear and go, never realizing the stress and strain they are putting on their drive chains. Thanks for the comments.
There is no such thing as a legal mid-drive more powerful than one human leg. E-bikes are NOT harder on chains, cassettes and such. We generate more than 100nm's of torque with our arms in bike shops everyday. Persons experiencing unusual chain wear and such are indeed shifting wrong. ALL bicycles, "e" or not, should be ridden 60-90rpm. This is why you often see a seated rider passing one standing in races. You should be pressing no harder than as if you are walking on the same surface (some exceptionally fit riders are even efficient at 110rpm). Yes, you can go a lite gaster pressing g harder, but your return on energy is greatly diminished because it is absorbed by your frame and drive line components (it is hard on them too). Shift accordingly and indeed, use all of your gears. BTW, this is why internally geared hubs are better for e-bikes. You can shift coasting or stopped so you are always in the ideal gear to start. That really helps with the reliability of your bike. Torque sensing eliminates the need for a shift sensor. All bikes, "e" or not, should never be shifted under load. It has nothing to do with the motor.
Thanks for your comment. I agree with on the issue of shifting under load. That should not be done on a regular pedal bike or an eBike. However, most quality mid-drive eBikes have a power cut off switch that cuts the power to the motor during shifting. I don't agree on other items you brought up. eBike motors, rear hub or mid-drive perform best when the motor is run at a higher RPM and lower gear, (larger rear cog). To be legal in most states, for the street, eBikes must have power shut off switches when they reach 28 MPH. As far as a rear hub motor being better than a mid-drive motor ... it depends on many factors. Larger riders generally do much better with a mid-drive because the motor can work through the rear cassette like a transmission on a car. Whereas the rear hub spins the entire wheel and does not just use the rear cassette. Of course, using a lower gear and pedaling when starting from a dead stop will help both types of motor. Also, the mid-drive motors are generally able to generate more torque. And because the mid-drive motor delivers higher torque the mid-drive motors tend to be harder on the entire drive chain, including the chain. Thanks again for your comments.
@@GreyBeardEBiking you completely misread my comment. I will only sell or convert with mid-drives. We only disagree on the need for cut-offs on a torque sensing motor (factory bikes will almost always have them. Vanpowers and Reid being notable exceptions) and on drive train wear from mid-drives. That is a myth. Like I said, no legal e-bike motor exerts as much torque as ONE human leg (it also divers the power more linearly). Only improper shifting will cause unusual chain wear on a mid-drive.
@@MHH3180 Thanks for the return comment. We pretty much agree ... the major cause of chain and cassette damage is due to "Power Shifting". However, Chain and cassette wear is higher on mid-drives because the power from the motor is through the drive line, as opposed to the rear hub drive which does not use the drive line to power the wheel. In any case I think we are on the same page. Of course this is all based on street legal eBikes. When on the off-road the power of some of these eBikes is really up there.
@@GreyBeardEBiking actually, no. Ridden at comparable speeds, you still put more power through a chain pedaling than through any motor. The motor spins more freely when you add more leg power. Now, if a hub drive is run off throttle, then yes, it is going to give no chain wear. Also, I guess, if you start in high boost and don't help with your legs much, you could get more wesr. My cystomers though are getting the same chain wesr as before I converted their bikes to torque sensing mid,drives. This may be because they are experienced cyclists (the reason they have good biked to convert).
@@MHH3180 Thanks for your comment. I agree with most of what you are saying however, in my experience, in general, most eBike riders use the throttle with little or no pedal effort much of the time. So, in this case, as you mentioned, the mid-drive motor is harder on the drive line. Just to be safe I always carry a chain braker tool and spare chain links in my on bike tool bag.
![Lethal Company Music Video 🎵 "Follow The Orders" [VERSION A]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QeooZB4Z7RA/mqdefault.jpg)
Have you had problems with worn out or broken drive trains?
This was the best and easiest to understand video on this subject that I have seen. Thank you!
Thanks for your comment. I love to hear feedback and especially when it makes sense for you. Thanks again.
Some pretty darn good tips here. Must see for e-bikers.
This has been the best, most down to earth video I’ve seen for the topic. Thank you!
Thanks for the great comment. Do you ride a mid-drive or hub-drive eBike?
@@GreyBeardEBiking a mid hub. I heard it was easy to mess up the motor or cassette and wanted to avoid it.
@@defenderofmen11 My experience has been that the Mid-drive motor set ups are more tolerant of hard use. I'm a large rider and ride in very hilly terrain and I have burned up multiple Hub-drive motors. Now that I'm using Mid Drives and using the gears on the bike properly, I haven't had any issues with my motor or drive line. However, like all mechanical things, there is wear over time and I realize I will need to replace parts. I carry spare chain parts on my rides so I can repair a broken chain. In addition, I had a spare rear cassette for when the time comes that I need to replace it. I have owned my current eBike for over 3 years and have over 4000 miles on the original chain and rear cassette. I'll probably replace both sometime this year, but they are still operating well. Stay safe and carry a tool kit with you.
Excellent guidance for those new to mid-drives as well as a sound reminder to us with experience. Thanks!
Thanks. You would be surprised to find out how many riders I've seen, both experienced and new riders, that leave the chain in the highest gear, (Small Cog), and never use the gears. Really bad for the entire drive system and really heats up the motor. Having ridden pedal only bikes for many years, I'm pretty used to down shifting, especially when coming to a stop or on hills. Have you had any issues with your eBike drivetrain?
@@GreyBeardEBiking No drivetrain issues whatsoever, but I do what you advocate. I have experience from motorcycle riding and bicycle riding in my youth. I also drove a stick shift car. Glad I still remember!
@@itsaboutsuccess Ah yes ... the manual transmission. My jeep is/was a stick shift and I learned on my dad's stick shift Datsun truck. Unfortunately my jeep, My Weekend Mobile, gave up the ghost 2 weeks ago after 310,000 miles. I'm gunna miss her.
@@GreyBeardEBiking Who was to guess that stick shift experience would have future benefits? Seperately, your jeep traveled around the earth more than twelve times... impressive!
@@itsaboutsuccess Yup, she was a very durable machine that shared many adventures together. Already miss her. Like you, I'm really glad I got the experience of a manual transmission. And you're correct, the experience has helped me in other areas.
Cut to the chase and get a Rohloff Speedhub, you won't believe how well a mid-drive and an IGH work together. You won't want to ever go back. I replace my chain every 6 months (approx 3K miles) and flip the Rohloff gear to a new side. Less than $20 and about 30 minutes on the side of the trail anywhere I may be.
Yup, the Rohloff speed hub is a great piece of gear however, I was trying to point out the simple things that can be done with stock gear that will help to extend the life of the eBike drive train. Did you do the install yourself?
@@GreyBeardEBiking Yes and a Rohloff cut my yearly maintenance to the drive train to less than $50 a year. Try replacing the entire gear cluster and see what it costs. Mid-drives can and do tear drive trains to shreds when riders start to ride more aggressively or start loading the bike with gear. The only way to save low-end stock components is to ride soft and easy... which doesn't last long when you start getting experience on your ebike.
If you go to Idaho, you gotta experience the Hiawatha biking trail. one of the most fun and unique in all the land. When the Grey Beard bike King is leaving Cali. you know things are heading south, which is why your're heading north.
Thanks. Yeah, I've been reading about the Hiawatha Trail, and it sounds like a terrific ride and the pictures are beautiful. I love the weather and riding in SoCal but it's so darn expensive for this old, retired engineer turned Grey Beard eBike rider. Plus, Northern Idaho has some beautiful country. Also, in my working days I've lived all over the US, New Zealand, South America, and in Antarctica, so I think I can get used to the weather. If I do end up in Idaho, I should be able to produce some great eBike videos. Have you ever experienced riding in the Pacific Northwest?
@@GreyBeardEBiking Negative, but the Hiawatha trail is part of my bucket list. Best of luck on whatever you decide.
@@pedrofernandez8729 I'm definitely going to make a video of the trial.
I have a Lectric XPremium mid drive. I weigh 260 and it has held up fine. It has a shift sensor which cuts power while shifting
Just befor i got my mid drive I built a Shimano IGH into my wheel. My homey was asking "wai not just have the bikeshop stitch it together?"
Because I would have to give them $30. And I wouldn't have the chance to learn to do something new.
I did have them calculate and cut my new spokes because if I calculated wrong I would be paying for the next set, if they calculate wrong they replace them. The tool to thread them is $200. So that will be for next year.
Thanks for the comment. Sounds like you took on a pretty tough challenge, but you overcame the challenge, learned something, and saved some dough. Congrats.
Is it okay to start on the higher gears if I only start the motor once I've gotten up to speed by pedaling?
Thanks for your great question. Generally, it's better to not cycle your motor on an off as it uses a little more battery life. Also, even if your motor is turn off, it's still better to shift to a lower gear as these put much less strain on you drive line, "Chain, gears, pedals, ETC."
great tips
some good tips !
Thanks for the comment. Stay safe out there.
Excellent easy to understand common sense tips
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Awesome tips. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for the nice comment. Do you ride a mid drive or hub drive?
@@GreyBeardEBiking I ride a vintage K2 MTB hardtail with a Bafang BBS02 mid drive kit. It is awesome. I am constantly reminding myself to always put it in first gear when I am stopping or even just yielding. Just today I was cruising in PAS 5 and gear 5, when I came to an intersection. I forgot to downshift when I slowed down, and when I started pedaling again I could hear my gears bark at me. learning everyday...
@@banyanstudio That's awesome. How long have you been riding your rig and where do you ride?
@@GreyBeardEBiking I've only been riding with the new motor since January. Just about o hit 100 miles on my odometer. I ride near Seattle WA.
@@banyanstudio That's great. keep me updated on how your setup lasts. I live in Southern California, but I will be moving to North Idaho this summer. (CDA). Maybe We will see each other on the trail sometime.
You are back. good. Or you can shift electronically which I have come to really like.
Glad to be back. No sure about the electronic shifting, but as long as I'm riding, I'm happy. Have you ever done any riding in cold climates?
Just orderd my first e bike which is a mid drive so this will be really useful. Ordered a Specialised turbo levo as i wanted comfort, durability and wanted a nice powerful motor as its 565 watts with 90nm of torque. But wanting to find how to get the most out of it i can.
Thanks for the comment. The Specialized Turbo Levo is a great eBike. You will love it. As far as getting the most out of you eBike, I always recommend following the manufacturers recommendations for maintenance and repair. I don't try to "soup-it-up" with aftermarket speed upgrades. It seems when folks try to do things to the motor or battery outside of the manufacture's recommendations they end up with problems. What type of riding do you do and what part of the country do you ride?
I wouldn't trust myself trying to add anything aftermarket on it 😂 probably change out the grips, pedals, and add a better chain, but keep it mostly stock that way. Be mostly road and some gravel/dirt paths. It's definitely overbiked for my commute to work, which it's 12 miles one way, so I want something comfy but with some oomph on the motor. It's the alloy model I've got as also got £500 off but eventually I may upgrade to higher model down the line but definitely can't wait
@@SubaruWRC1996 Sounds like we think alike with regard to aftermarket accessories. I prefer for my everyday riding to keep everything factory. For me it has worked well and my eBikes tend to las a long while. All this being said, if we were riding some extreme terrain and really challenging the eBike then I would consider some specialty parts. But for now, I'll stay stock. Let me know when you upgrade and how it goes for you. Thanks.
@GreyBeardEBiking will do. Got some new pedals and ordred some floating disc rotors. Will look at changing the break levers and break calipers too and I think I'll change the grips too. Also thought about getting the e bike specific cassette and chain from kmc too
@@SubaruWRC1996 Sorry it took so long to get back to you. Life got in the way. Sounds like you are adding some great accessories. Let me know how they work out. Thanks again.
Nice to see you back! Was worried about you. What have you been up too!
Thanks, been traveling a bit. Might be moving from SoCal to Northern Idaho. Any advice for me.
@@GreyBeardEBiking yes ! Do it! Although your biking opportunities will be less if at all in winter. I toured Idaho 4 times looking for homes with land. Great deals and would have loved to move. But for now I need to stay closer to aging parents. Moved from NorCal to Northern Nevada for now instead. Lots of trails to ride here and Lake Tahoe not to far. Got in a nice ride on a great bike path yesterday from Squaw Valley to Tahoe City. 114 mile trail call the the Tahoe-Pyramid Trail I’m looking at completing next spring. Have friends all over Idaho. Mostly around Boise. I was looking around Coure d’lane very hard. Be sure to checkout McCall, Idaho. Was also top of my list. Great growing small town. I’m was rated as one of the top towns to retire. I might get ti move there in a few more years. Looking for cooler summers. But they do get quite a bit more snow that CDL. Best of luck with your decision. It sure is beautiful up there.
@@GreyBeardEBiking I’m riding a Eunorau Defender S. Dual hub motors, full suspension, running dual batteries also when needed. Love the bike so far.
@@joebidendidthat5121 That's an awesome ride. I'm still on my Biktrix Juggernaut Ultra 1000 mid drive. It has been a very reliable ride for me. Had it since Jan 2021. Many great adventures on it.
To my old cycling eyes your seat seems to be way too low.
Thanks for the comment. You have a good eye. Yes, for some of these shots I lowered the seat to make it easier to stop and start for the video. I now have a dropper seat post.
So no burn outs?
Hmmmmmm ... no burn outs? Well, burn outs are fun once-in-a-while but not great for trying to make your drive line last longer. 😀
@@GreyBeardEBiking I agree hahah. Great and very informative content for mid drive functionality.
@@johnnylong2049 Thanks. I'm a heavy rider so any burnouts for me a when I'm standing over the top tube. I just installed a new rear tire that's pretty grabby so the eBike might take off on me. Keep on having fun on the eBike my friend.
All of this is old hat old news to all experienced ‘analog’ / non-ebike riders. It’s all the same thing
1. Never shift under load
2. Always downshift before stopping
3. Keep rpm’s high particularly uphill
4. Practice practice practice
Yup, you are exactly right. The problem I see most is from inexperienced eBike riders who never shift or use the gears. Mostly they put it into high gear and go, never realizing the stress and strain they are putting on their drive chains. Thanks for the comments.
There is no such thing as a legal mid-drive more powerful than one human leg. E-bikes are NOT harder on chains, cassettes and such. We generate more than 100nm's of torque with our arms in bike shops everyday.
Persons experiencing unusual chain wear and such are indeed shifting wrong. ALL bicycles, "e" or not, should be ridden 60-90rpm. This is why you often see a seated rider passing one standing in races. You should be pressing no harder than as if you are walking on the same surface (some exceptionally fit riders are even efficient at 110rpm). Yes, you can go a lite gaster pressing g harder, but your return on energy is greatly diminished because it is absorbed by your frame and drive line components (it is hard on them too). Shift accordingly and indeed, use all of your gears. BTW, this is why internally geared hubs are better for e-bikes. You can shift coasting or stopped so you are always in the ideal gear to start. That really helps with the reliability of your bike.
Torque sensing eliminates the need for a shift sensor. All bikes, "e" or not, should never be shifted under load. It has nothing to do with the motor.
Thanks for your comment. I agree with on the issue of shifting under load. That should not be done on a regular pedal bike or an eBike. However, most quality mid-drive eBikes have a power cut off switch that cuts the power to the motor during shifting. I don't agree on other items you brought up. eBike motors, rear hub or mid-drive perform best when the motor is run at a higher RPM and lower gear, (larger rear cog). To be legal in most states, for the street, eBikes must have power shut off switches when they reach 28 MPH. As far as a rear hub motor being better than a mid-drive motor ... it depends on many factors. Larger riders generally do much better with a mid-drive because the motor can work through the rear cassette like a transmission on a car. Whereas the rear hub spins the entire wheel and does not just use the rear cassette. Of course, using a lower gear and pedaling when starting from a dead stop will help both types of motor. Also, the mid-drive motors are generally able to generate more torque. And because the mid-drive motor delivers higher torque the mid-drive motors tend to be harder on the entire drive chain, including the chain. Thanks again for your comments.
@@GreyBeardEBiking you completely misread my comment. I will only sell or convert with mid-drives. We only disagree on the need for cut-offs on a torque sensing motor (factory bikes will almost always have them. Vanpowers and Reid being notable exceptions) and on drive train wear from mid-drives. That is a myth. Like I said, no legal e-bike motor exerts as much torque as ONE human leg (it also divers the power more linearly). Only improper shifting will cause unusual chain wear on a mid-drive.
@@MHH3180 Thanks for the return comment. We pretty much agree ... the major cause of chain and cassette damage is due to "Power Shifting". However, Chain and cassette wear is higher on mid-drives because the power from the motor is through the drive line, as opposed to the rear hub drive which does not use the drive line to power the wheel. In any case I think we are on the same page. Of course this is all based on street legal eBikes. When on the off-road the power of some of these eBikes is really up there.
@@GreyBeardEBiking actually, no. Ridden at comparable speeds, you still put more power through a chain pedaling than through any motor. The motor spins more freely when you add more leg power. Now, if a hub drive is run off throttle, then yes, it is going to give no chain wear. Also, I guess, if you start in high boost and don't help with your legs much, you could get more wesr. My cystomers though are getting the same chain wesr as before I converted their bikes to torque sensing mid,drives. This may be because they are experienced cyclists (the reason they have good biked to convert).
@@MHH3180 Thanks for your comment. I agree with most of what you are saying however, in my experience, in general, most eBike riders use the throttle with little or no pedal effort much of the time. So, in this case, as you mentioned, the mid-drive motor is harder on the drive line. Just to be safe I always carry a chain braker tool and spare chain links in my on bike tool bag.