I got that printer 2 month ago and first tried the calibration routine. It takes forever and it is really anoying. So I started to do it like you. Calibration takes now around 1 minute. The bed warped on mine as well btw.
Good to hear that it also works for you. Aluminum beds do warp, they always do. if it's real bad, you can buy a new bed or maybe it's even a warranty issue for you. But if it still works, don't bother about it ;-)
5 years old, but still actual and useful since this model is still on the market and I just bought one. Thank you for the tips. :) Just two questions, though. 1: Does the heatbed have to be heated up when doing the z-level offset calibration for all corners? just wondering if printbed warping could be an issue or if it is so minimal that it does not matter. 2: How thick is the paper you used? the manual said to use two papers, you just used one.
Hi, When doing the corner to corner leveling, the print bed does not have to be heated, because the leveling is done on the metal edges, and not on the bed. I prefer doing the hand level method, and then the bed needs to be heated because then the sizes are a bit different from a cool bed. For leveling, I use 100gr/m2 paper or a business card. When using a business card, please make sure to have a stiffer feeling.
I just got this thing brand new for 400 Euros :) Love it, but the calibration is a disaster. This tutorial is the best thing since sliced cheese. Thank you!
Hoi kleine opmerking over de hand calibratie. Het is wel verstandig om de print kop eerst op te verwarmen zodat er lekkend filament uit komt en je de kop goed schoon maakt. En inderdaad als je buildtak gebruikt geef ik ik de Z offset 5 tikjes hoger. (zelf gebruik ik een visitekaartje)
As explained here: ruclips.net/video/mPkaL9PC56Y/видео.html The printbed is BuilTak These are sheets of print bed material that can be mounted on the aluminum bed, and that work great for both PLA and ABS.
I see that the BuildTak that you use seems to perfectly fit the print size of your DaVinci. Can you tell me where I can purchase a BuildTak product like that? I've gone to their website and haven't found a bed with the size needed to fit the DaVinci bed space.
Thanks Brian. Very helpful. I installed the E3Dv6 conversion. From my home axes point, I need a z offset of over 9mm which it won’t do. Can I set my home axes point lower or what do I do to fix this? Thank you!
Hi Brian, I love your videos! I tried to calibrate my XYZ da vinci Pro and it failed, then I went to the Z offset and it gave me a 1.45 message what do I do next? Other videos tell you on the little screen what knob underneath to turn but mine doesn't. Can you help me?
I can't check the messages anymore as I don't have the Da Vinci Pro anymore (I build a new printer in the same cabinet) but I never used auto calibration. I always calibrate my printers by hand with some paper. Works best.
Hi Brian, I have the issue that with manual calibration that the bed and the nozzle are cold. When the bed is heating up, it is not level anymore. Either the three adjustment studs are not at the same temperature or they have different heat expansion coefficients. I did not find a way to do manual calibration with a hot bed and hot nozzle. I even tried to insert code in Simplify3D to move the head to Z0; release the motors and wait. Somehow this did not work. The head moved to the correct position but did not wait. I could not find a list of which gcodes the Davinci will listen to when on USB or WiFi, or which codes have been implemented (like the correct code for waiting). Also to make the auto levelling OK you have to clean the contact points (Nozzle and bed) DILIGENTLY. I use Acetone, Ethanol and WD40 and copper brush, in that order. Also A problem was that at point 4 (left back) the Bowden cable and/or the cable harness was between the head and the frame, causing the head to move up slightly, throwing off the measurement completely. I prevent this manually and it is now OK. To make sure that the auto levelling is successful, I repeat the procedure and the second time it must say "Perfect level" again without any adjustments. After auto calibration I adjust the offset (with tape installed) with 2 pieces of paper. Then I am close to a perfect first layer. After that I do 1 -3 test prints optimise the Z-Offset. Please comment on this.
Hi Hendrik, I am glad this works for you. The 'auto' calibration never worked very well for me and that's why I did the calibration as explained in the video. That said, I made a completely different printer now in the frame of the Da Vinci printer, with real auto bed leveling, so I don't have to worry about that ever again. So, at this moment I don't have a Da Vinci anymore. I have a homemade printer that looks like a Da Vinci, but it isn't.
Yes and no, to be honest. No, I didn't have any problems with cold leveling but... Yes, I use thicker paper then I use when I level a bed of a printer that can be leveled while it's hot. The thickness of the paper is enough to correct for the expansion of the nozzle (there is no noticeable expansion in the thickness of the bed). So, as long as you have the same hight for each corner and the center of the bed, then the only thing you have to make sure is the size of the gap between the nozzle and the bed. I used Simplify3D for the Da Vinci Pro printer and that slicer has perfect first layer settings that are being recognized by the printer.
Sidney Tsou , check to see if your front tensioners are stuck giving the belt to much slack, if they are just push on the wheels forward making the belt tight and the sensor will reach the 2 front pads when calibrating.
Hello, and thx for vid :-) When i try auto calib, the check pin by nozzle cant reach the metal plate on the bed in front right side? will a hard reset fix this? i can print by manual use yours ide, but auto would be nice :-)
For a long time, the software demanded you to do an update before you could use the software. Then, when they had messed up the software pretty badly, they rolled back to old firmware, and they never changed that anymore.
I'm using a Da Vinci Pro at work, but we cannot get the printer to get past Calibration. It touches all four points and then reports fail. I have cleaned the nozzle and points. I have manually set the bed as suggested and then calibration gives the 'unlevel bed' response. I then adjust as requested, it re-calibrates and then I get 'Calibration Fail' again! I tried your manual levelling method and then tried to test print. Nothing happened! Please help.
Hi It's more then a year now since I have used it, as I don't have a Da Vinci Pro anymore, but you can skip the Da Vinci calibration and just calibrate by hand the manual way. Then ignore the message that the bed is 'unlevel' and just print with it. That's how I did it back then.
In time I can't tell. Some of my printers I never lubricate, some of them once a month. This is depending on the amount of dirt that they can pickup on the rods and also on the quality of the sliders. I have some IGUS sliders that are self lubricating, if I would lubricate them, I would ruin them. Just watch the noise they make. If it's to much noise, then lubrication is needed.
Homing the axis is needed when the printer doesn't know the positions of the axis. The home point is the starting point from where the machine counts the steps made by the motors. When you start the Z offset mode, the first thing the printer does is homing the Z axis. After that, everything the printer does is done by calculated steps, so homing the axis again is not needed.
My Da Vinci 1.1 plus powers off during auto bed calibration. The bed gets to about 72c and then the printer shuts off. The hot end seams fine, it gets to 212c.
Hoi Ben, Ik heb de gewone Da Vinci Pro 1.0 dus de versie zonder scanner. Een 3D scanner staat wel op mijn verlanglijstje, maar of en wanneer die er komt.....
I've done this several times on my Da Vinci Pro and it's like my printer forgets the offset is there...it just crashes my nozzle into the plate when i start to print
hey, mij lukt het maar niet om het perfect te krijgen met behulp van het papier....... ik ben nu al 2 dagen aan het klooien maar ik krijg hem maar niet goed..
Dat is balen. Grote kans dat je een ander probleem hebt dan. Het kan zijn dat je aluminium plaat niet meer helemaal recht is. Dit merk je bijvoorbeeld doordat je de hoeken wel kunt levelen, maar dat je filament dan in het midden gewoon loslaat, of dat in het midden je kop over de plaat gaat. Het vervangen van het print bed is dan eigenlijk de enige werkende optie.
manual way then. My e3dhot end really struggles to print pla if i switch back to stock i have no issues and i manually calibrate that. using a steel nozzle also.
Are you sure you tightened the nozzle to the heatbreak??? This is a very important step and can cause this kind of problems. Quick way to find out (but certainly NOT a solution) is to use a drop of vegetable oil in the hot end. Just a very tiny drop (stick the filament in for 1cm and then in the hot end). Make sure when you do this, you don't get that filament trough the PCB !!! only in the hot end. If the problem is solved, you have not tightened the nozzle to the heatbreak good enough.
Ik neem aan dat je doelt op de laser functie van de machine omdat je het hebt over een Da Vinci Pro AIO, maar deze video gaat over de gewone versie van de Da Vinci Pro. Ik heb nooit een AIO gehad, dus ik weet niet hoe het graveren gaat.
@@kittyvisser5672 de normale pro, zoals ik die gebruik in deze video heeft geen mogelijkheid een optionele accessoire te plaatsen. Dit kan alleen bij andere modellen. Ik kan u daar helaas niet mee helpen want die versie heb ik nooit gehad.
After 3 weeks of ownership of the Da Vinci Pro (3 in 1) the bed warped (I guess from the heat) so it never gets level. I added blue tape to compensate where it has warped and use a sheet of glass to ensure level Z axis and level prints, but what a piece of junk! ...and don't get me started about the how bad the laser scanner is, total waste of $100.00, this printer is good for kids, senior citizens and retards.
Hi, I can understand your frustration but I can also tell you that this happens with every printer in the world sometimes. It's a thing that can happen and it's very frustrating if it happens, but I know XYZPrinting doesn't make a point of it and replaces the bed free of charge. It's just bad luck when it happens. I had it on one of my Da Vinci Pro's, I had it on a home made HyperCube and it happened on a Prusa clone I have here. Replace the bed and you'll be very happy. Good luck and regards, Brian.
another fantastic video again, thanks Brian
Thank you.
I have been trying to calibrate my da Vinci 1.0 Pro for over a month now and your video taught me so much about this printer. Thank you!
Glad you have bennefit of it.
thanks Brian it really worked on mine and hope your channel is soon promoted to a higher rank
Thanks Deon,
I hope so too... Would be great if that happens ;-)
I'm glad that you left it ... man I needed a refresher course ...
Lol, I am not going to move them... All video's can now be found on my website. 3d-printcreator.com/category/printer/da-vinci-pro/
I got that printer 2 month ago and first tried the calibration routine. It takes forever and it is really anoying. So I started to do it like you. Calibration takes now around 1 minute.
The bed warped on mine as well btw.
Good to hear that it also works for you.
Aluminum beds do warp, they always do. if it's real bad, you can buy a new bed or maybe it's even a warranty issue for you.
But if it still works, don't bother about it ;-)
I hate leveling my davinci pro, haven't been able to use it in awhile because I can't level it, but it is a little better then my old davinci
Brian Thank you, This was the Most siple and effective Ways I have seen so far and has helped me
Well, great to hear that. My pleasure.
Thank you Brian, this really helps!!!
5 years old, but still actual and useful since this model is still on the market and I just bought one. Thank you for the tips. :) Just two questions, though.
1: Does the heatbed have to be heated up when doing the z-level offset calibration for all corners? just wondering if printbed warping could be an issue or if it is so minimal that it does not matter.
2: How thick is the paper you used? the manual said to use two papers, you just used one.
Hi,
When doing the corner to corner leveling, the print bed does not have to be heated, because the leveling is done on the metal edges, and not on the bed.
I prefer doing the hand level method, and then the bed needs to be heated because then the sizes are a bit different from a cool bed.
For leveling, I use 100gr/m2 paper or a business card. When using a business card, please make sure to have a stiffer feeling.
Very nice video Brian. Your way is so much better than the software way.
That's very good information, thanks for your help!
Waiting for that E3d change.. might do it to mine too
Next week, there will be the video about that E3Dv6 change.
I just got this thing brand new for 400 Euros :) Love it, but the calibration is a disaster. This tutorial is the best thing since sliced cheese. Thank you!
Yummy, I love sliced cheese.
Thanks for the compliment and loads of fun with your printer.
Thats what i had been waiting for :D
Thanks Brian
I hope it was worth waiting :-)
Thanks for your nice words.
Good leveling video. Thanks for posting!
Thanks :-)
Hoi kleine opmerking over de hand calibratie. Het is wel verstandig om de print kop eerst op te verwarmen zodat er lekkend filament uit komt en je de kop goed schoon maakt. En inderdaad als je buildtak gebruikt geef ik ik de Z offset 5 tikjes hoger. (zelf gebruik ik een visitekaartje)
Met een warme printkop en een warm bed is inderdaad het beste, maar ik heb gemerkt dat het ook gewoon koud kan, gaat perfect.
Ben ik met je eens.
Thanks Brian, I still love your video's!
Ohhh, Thank you !!!
:-)
Love this you saved me sooooo much time buddy!!!Thank you!!!
Love to hear that. Good luck with your printer. :-)
Thanks for the video. It really helped. Can you tell me what type of padding are you using on the printbed?
As explained here: ruclips.net/video/mPkaL9PC56Y/видео.html
The printbed is BuilTak
These are sheets of print bed material that can be mounted on the aluminum bed, and that work great for both PLA and ABS.
@@3dPrintCreator @3d-PrintCreator Thanks a lot! What other types of padding do you reccomend?
I see that the BuildTak that you use seems to perfectly fit the print size of your DaVinci. Can you tell me where I can purchase a BuildTak product like that? I've gone to their website and haven't found a bed with the size needed to fit the DaVinci bed space.
I bought it at a shop in the Netherlands, but they are out of business
Thanks Brian. Very helpful. I installed the E3Dv6 conversion. From my home axes point, I need a z offset of over 9mm which it won’t do. Can I set my home axes point lower or what do I do to fix this? Thank you!
I have set mine to -8.5mm and the rest I have done with the thumbscrews under the bed.
Eindelijk werkt het nu, dank je wel man!
Leuk om te horen, dank je.
Awesome video, thanks!
Much easier and better, thx mate!!
Your Welcome
Thank you worked great!!
Hi Brian, I love your videos! I tried to calibrate my XYZ da vinci Pro and it failed, then I went to the Z offset and it gave me a 1.45 message what do I do next? Other videos tell you on the little screen what knob underneath to turn but mine doesn't. Can you help me?
I can't check the messages anymore as I don't have the Da Vinci Pro anymore (I build a new printer in the same cabinet) but I never used auto calibration. I always calibrate my printers by hand with some paper. Works best.
Hi Brian, I have the issue that with manual calibration that the bed and the nozzle are cold. When the bed is heating up, it is not level anymore. Either the three adjustment studs are not at the same temperature or they have different heat expansion coefficients. I did not find a way to do manual calibration with a hot bed and hot nozzle. I even tried to insert code in Simplify3D to move the head to Z0; release the motors and wait. Somehow this did not work. The head moved to the correct position but did not wait. I could not find a list of which gcodes the Davinci will listen to when on USB or WiFi, or which codes have been implemented (like the correct code for waiting).
Also to make the auto levelling OK you have to clean the contact points (Nozzle and bed) DILIGENTLY. I use Acetone, Ethanol and WD40 and copper brush, in that order. Also A problem was that at point 4 (left back) the Bowden cable and/or the cable harness was between the head and the frame, causing the head to move up slightly, throwing off the measurement completely. I prevent this manually and it is now OK.
To make sure that the auto levelling is successful, I repeat the procedure and the second time it must say "Perfect level" again without any adjustments.
After auto calibration I adjust the offset (with tape installed) with 2 pieces of paper. Then I am close to a perfect first layer. After that I do 1 -3 test prints optimise the Z-Offset.
Please comment on this.
Hi Hendrik,
I am glad this works for you. The 'auto' calibration never worked very well for me and that's why I did the calibration as explained in the video. That said, I made a completely different printer now in the frame of the Da Vinci printer, with real auto bed leveling, so I don't have to worry about that ever again.
So, at this moment I don't have a Da Vinci anymore. I have a homemade printer that looks like a Da Vinci, but it isn't.
I assume that you did not have problems with manual leveling "cold" like I do?@@3dPrintCreator
Yes and no, to be honest.
No, I didn't have any problems with cold leveling but... Yes, I use thicker paper then I use when I level a bed of a printer that can be leveled while it's hot. The thickness of the paper is enough to correct for the expansion of the nozzle (there is no noticeable expansion in the thickness of the bed).
So, as long as you have the same hight for each corner and the center of the bed, then the only thing you have to make sure is the size of the gap between the nozzle and the bed. I used Simplify3D for the Da Vinci Pro printer and that slicer has perfect first layer settings that are being recognized by the printer.
my new da Vinci pro 1.0 never touch the front metal piece when calibration and fail all the time, wondering if you know what's going on. Thanks,
Can it be the bed is hanging a little on the front? Sometimes this happens and then the front of the bed is simply to low for the sensor to touch.
Sidney Tsou , check to see if your front tensioners are stuck giving the belt to much slack, if they are just push on the wheels forward making the belt tight and the sensor will reach the 2 front pads when calibrating.
great video mate. good work
Hello, and thx for vid :-) When i try auto calib, the check pin by nozzle cant reach the metal plate on the bed in front right side? will a hard reset fix this? i can print by manual use yours ide, but auto would be nice :-)
Hey Brian,
How do you have version 1.3.2 when the websites latest is 1.2.2?
Where do you get your firmware?
For a long time, the software demanded you to do an update before you could use the software. Then, when they had messed up the software pretty badly, they rolled back to old firmware, and they never changed that anymore.
I'm using a Da Vinci Pro at work, but we cannot get the printer to get past Calibration. It touches all four points and then reports fail. I have cleaned the nozzle and points. I have manually set the bed as suggested and then calibration gives the 'unlevel bed' response. I then adjust as requested, it re-calibrates and then I get 'Calibration Fail' again! I tried your manual levelling method and then tried to test print. Nothing happened! Please help.
Hi
It's more then a year now since I have used it, as I don't have a Da Vinci Pro anymore, but you can skip the Da Vinci calibration and just calibrate by hand the manual way. Then ignore the message that the bed is 'unlevel' and just print with it.
That's how I did it back then.
Is your bed warped or is it just the camera I noticed it looks very warped in the first part of auto calibration when you are turning the front knob
It's pretty much warped, but still I am able to make nice prints on it.
In the future I am planning to put glass on the bed.
Brian
Can u show how take off the left part of printer
box ??
I will show this in next weeks video.
thanks
How often do the rails need greasing (Lubrication) if any? Thanks!
In time I can't tell. Some of my printers I never lubricate, some of them once a month. This is depending on the amount of dirt that they can pickup on the rods and also on the quality of the sliders. I have some IGUS sliders that are self lubricating, if I would lubricate them, I would ruin them.
Just watch the noise they make. If it's to much noise, then lubrication is needed.
After the "Z Offset" adjustment is made, should you not push the "Home Axes" setting to let the machine know the print height at a future print?
Homing the axis is needed when the printer doesn't know the positions of the axis. The home point is the starting point from where the machine counts the steps made by the motors.
When you start the Z offset mode, the first thing the printer does is homing the Z axis. After that, everything the printer does is done by calculated steps, so homing the axis again is not needed.
Good to know, i'm sure it was on an xyz video that mentioned it. Thought it was a tedious way of doing things!
My Da Vinci 1.1 plus powers off during auto bed calibration. The bed gets to about 72c and then the printer shuts off. The hot end seams fine, it gets to 212c.
Looks like a thermal runaway protection kicking in. There must be some error in the thermistor (maybe loose) or on the board.
everytime i try to calibrate it fails and ive done everything to try and fix it but it still doesn't work.
Use manual calibration and you will be very happy.
Wanneer gebruikt je scanner da vinci printer???😀
Hoi Ben,
Ik heb de gewone Da Vinci Pro 1.0 dus de versie zonder scanner.
Een 3D scanner staat wel op mijn verlanglijstje, maar of en wanneer die er komt.....
Bedankt voor reacties.
I've done this several times on my Da Vinci Pro and it's like my printer forgets the offset is there...it just crashes my nozzle into the plate when i start to print
Oooh, that's really bad.
Don't know why this is happening. I didn't have the same problem with my Da Vinci Printers.
Have you figured a way to successfully calibrate this issue? Im having the same situation with my printer.
hey, mij lukt het maar niet om het perfect te krijgen met behulp van het papier....... ik ben nu al 2 dagen aan het klooien maar ik krijg hem maar niet goed..
Dat is balen. Grote kans dat je een ander probleem hebt dan. Het kan zijn dat je aluminium plaat niet meer helemaal recht is. Dit merk je bijvoorbeeld doordat je de hoeken wel kunt levelen, maar dat je filament dan in het midden gewoon loslaat, of dat in het midden je kop over de plaat gaat.
Het vervangen van het print bed is dan eigenlijk de enige werkende optie.
how do you level the bed with e3dhot end? no probe
You should have watched the whole video :-)
ruclips.net/video/mPkaL9PC56Y/видео.htmlm19s
manual way then. My e3dhot end really struggles to print pla if i switch back to stock i have no issues and i manually calibrate that. using a steel nozzle also.
Are you sure you tightened the nozzle to the heatbreak??? This is a very important step and can cause this kind of problems.
Quick way to find out (but certainly NOT a solution) is to use a drop of vegetable oil in the hot end. Just a very tiny drop (stick the filament in for 1cm and then in the hot end).
Make sure when you do this, you don't get that filament trough the PCB !!! only in the hot end. If the problem is solved, you have not tightened the nozzle to the heatbreak good enough.
3d Print Creator definitely. I'm going to try putting the brass nozzle back on later and see how that goes.
hoi hoe stel je de hoogte van graveren in
Ik neem aan dat je doelt op de laser functie van de machine omdat je het hebt over een Da Vinci Pro AIO, maar deze video gaat over de gewone versie van de Da Vinci Pro.
Ik heb nooit een AIO gehad, dus ik weet niet hoe het graveren gaat.
Ok is zo ver ik weet een normale pro(DAVINCI PRO v1.0) en ja het gaat om de z as te verstellen als de engraver is geplaatst
@@kittyvisser5672 de normale pro, zoals ik die gebruik in deze video heeft geen mogelijkheid een optionele accessoire te plaatsen. Dit kan alleen bij andere modellen. Ik kan u daar helaas niet mee helpen want die versie heb ik nooit gehad.
show !!!
Sorry, you are 2 years late.
I don't have the printer anymore, there is nothing to be shown.
After 3 weeks of ownership of the Da Vinci Pro (3 in 1) the bed warped (I guess from the heat) so it never gets level. I added blue tape to compensate where it has warped and use a sheet of glass to ensure level Z axis and level prints, but what a piece of junk! ...and don't get me started about the how bad the laser scanner is, total waste of $100.00, this printer is good for kids, senior citizens and retards.
Hi,
I can understand your frustration but I can also tell you that this happens with every printer in the world sometimes.
It's a thing that can happen and it's very frustrating if it happens, but I know XYZPrinting doesn't make a point of it and replaces the bed free of charge. It's just bad luck when it happens. I had it on one of my Da Vinci Pro's, I had it on a home made HyperCube and it happened on a Prusa clone I have here.
Replace the bed and you'll be very happy.
Good luck and regards,
Brian.
Becomes Clickbait?
Guess you haven't watched it if you say this.
all other reactions are thank you's...