You have just finished fixing the most inaccurate piece of crap from the most inaccurate piece of crap ever, good job, I will try to do the same, thanks again mate!
The miter fence droops to the right because of the weight. The miter bar is ok. You might have to figure out a way to attach a counterweight, or a clamp to keep the miter gauge from tilting towards the blade. Excellent modification on the table. Can you show us the under side of those roller/brackets for the sliding table? Or a link in the description. Thanks. Mabuza.
Yes you are right. The easiest way to add a counter weight is to use a longer fence that sticks out the side as a counter balance. However I dont want to lose the space in the workshop. I live with the fence issue currently as it has proven easy to overcome but one day ill get annoyed and fix it.
@@chris_thornborrow what about some lead or thin steel on the outside edge or on top or back side of what you have already without lengthening it. I’m sure it wouldn’t take much to be a counter weight, I think flat lead on top and back would do it and you could add an extra layer or two if needed. That way you don’t have to add length to the outside.
Don't disturb you the gap between the slyding table ande the saw table AND the long, long construct for sliding out left in front when you work? That 90° fence must not slide more forward than the middle of the sawblade, or not?
Rather than making such a pointless construction for a saw carriage to cut a larger area, I'd rather cut it into parts with a Bosch 190 hand saw and then adjust it to a table saw. In the same way, I prepare massive slats outside the sawmill, and I make the final dimensions at the sawmill. Such a construction would bother me a lot in the space and I would probably injure myself on it. On the MLT100, I only made a new saw ruler from an ALU profile and improved the clearance of the ruler in the groove. I just modified the cart to have less clearance and flatness with the table, I don't use it much. I have had this saw for many years and it cuts without any problems, it just needs occasional maintenance and lubrication of the gears. I use bike chain spray, it's like dry teflon and doesn't stick to sawdust.
Theres always more than one way to do stuff. As it happems I am using this extension again today thoigh the MLT100 is not my main saw, for the problem I have it seems the best solution.
May I know if you have had issues with lifting mechanism? Other RUclipsr pointed out the lifting mechanism had failed because of the use of aluminium part against steel rod with fine threads
I’m turned off because they couldn’t get the two slide tracks the same size and don’t seem to have fixed it, that to me is far from quality, Is it really that difficult to build a portable saw that is as they should be with well fitting pieces. I do like the Makita but the slide slots keep turning me off. I’d like a cheap second hand one and just use the saw mechanism in a home made table.
Every seems to upgrade this saw themselves surely makita should take note and do it themselves so u buy a saw and have to make it better yourself dosent make sense to me
The only good thing with this model is the motor. It has a powerful motor comparing to other similar size table saws. The sliding miter is no use, better to remove it and use a sled which will give you more accurate cut. Blade alignment is extremely difficult and most of the time you can not make it fully parallel to the fence. Adjusting the fence is another headache. My advise is to give up and buy a another brand
Voornaamr v in fact the answer would be yes! It s a powerful saw with great height capacity and the widest ripping capacity on a job site saw all it need is some tinkering and some thinking to solve some of 5e expected problems with a saw of this proce
:-) if you want a saw that works out of the box, I completely agree - dont get this one. If you want the most for your money and are prepared to tinker, fix and invent, then this saw is a real 'fixer-up' opportunity.
You have just finished fixing the most inaccurate piece of crap from the most inaccurate piece of crap ever, good job, I will try to do the same, thanks again mate!
Yeah its a bit like polishing a turd but well if you bought a turd - may as well polish it.
The miter fence droops to the right because of the weight. The miter bar is ok. You might have to figure out a way to attach a counterweight, or a clamp to keep the miter gauge from tilting towards the blade. Excellent modification on the table. Can you show us the under side of those roller/brackets for the sliding table? Or a link in the description. Thanks.
Mabuza.
Yes you are right. The easiest way to add a counter weight is to use a longer fence that sticks out the side as a counter balance. However I dont want to lose the space in the workshop. I live with the fence issue currently as it has proven easy to overcome but one day ill get annoyed and fix it.
@@chris_thornborrow
I understand. As long as you're aware that it's just the weight of the fence that causes it to lean that way.
@@chris_thornborrow what about some lead or thin steel on the outside edge or on top or back side of what you have already without lengthening it. I’m sure it wouldn’t take much to be a counter weight, I think flat lead on top and back would do it and you could add an extra layer or two if needed. That way you don’t have to add length to the outside.
Don't disturb you the gap between the slyding table ande the saw table AND the long, long construct for sliding out left in front when you work?
That 90° fence must not slide more forward than the middle of the sawblade, or not?
Rather than making such a pointless construction for a saw carriage to cut a larger area, I'd rather cut it into parts with a Bosch 190 hand saw and then adjust it to a table saw. In the same way, I prepare massive slats outside the sawmill, and I make the final dimensions at the sawmill. Such a construction would bother me a lot in the space and I would probably injure myself on it. On the MLT100, I only made a new saw ruler from an ALU profile and improved the clearance of the ruler in the groove. I just modified the cart to have less clearance and flatness with the table, I don't use it much. I have had this saw for many years and it cuts without any problems, it just needs occasional maintenance and lubrication of the gears. I use bike chain spray, it's like dry teflon and doesn't stick to sawdust.
Theres always more than one way to do stuff. As it happems I am using this extension again today thoigh the MLT100 is not my main saw, for the problem I have it seems the best solution.
May I know if you have had issues with lifting mechanism? Other RUclipsr pointed out the lifting mechanism had failed because of the use of aluminium part against steel rod with fine threads
No issues for me...
Why do you need that long rail continuing after the blade? What's the point in that to keep sliding - it should be already cut after the blade
Nice improvise you've done there.
I’m turned off because they couldn’t get the two slide tracks the same size and don’t seem to have fixed it, that to me is far from quality,
Is it really that difficult to build a portable saw that is as they should be with well fitting pieces.
I do like the Makita but the slide slots keep turning me off.
I’d like a cheap second hand one and just use the saw mechanism in a home made table.
Every seems to upgrade this saw themselves surely makita should take note and do it themselves so u buy a saw and have to make it better yourself dosent make sense to me
Chris - does the cost of the extrusion, when added to the cost of the saw still outweigh buying a typically more expensive saw?
Joli travail !
Quelles sont les dimensions de la petite table sur laquelle esst posée la Makita MLT100 ?
Hi , you can find them under 'v-slot gantry plate' on aliexpress, bang good or any openbuilds supplier in europe.
The only good thing with this model is the motor. It has a powerful motor comparing to other similar size table saws. The sliding miter is no use, better to remove it and use a sled which will give you more accurate cut. Blade alignment is extremely difficult and most of the time you can not make it fully parallel to the fence. Adjusting the fence is another headache. My advise is to give up and buy a another brand
Its become a second saw for me, stands outside and I use it for firewood etc.
Una belleza tu inventó muy útil
where is part 1?
Hi what bar did you use for the mire sled
schould you buy a makita mtl 100 ?? no no no no no no
Voornaamr v in fact the answer would be yes! It s a powerful saw with great height capacity and the widest ripping capacity on a job site saw all it need is some tinkering and some thinking to solve some of 5e expected problems with a saw of this proce
:-) if you want a saw that works out of the box, I completely agree - dont get this one. If you want the most for your money and are prepared to tinker, fix and invent, then this saw is a real 'fixer-up' opportunity.
@@robohjhonson3711 Exactly!
You need to weed mate