How to Replace the Cam and Crank Shaft Oil Seals 2.2L Toyota Camry 1997-2001
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- Опубликовано: 9 май 2018
- This video provides helpful tips in removing and installing the cam and crankshaft oil seals on the front of a 2.2L Toyota Camry. Other videos on this engine include front end tear down, Timing set up and belt replacement, water pump replacement and front end reassembly.
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There is a tool called a shaft type seal puller. It works like a charm and much easier and quicker to remove the cam and crank seals. Got mine for about $20 at O'Reilly's (part number 58430) after getting frustrated with trying to get a drill bit started in the cam seal. If I never use it again it was worth the expense! Pulled cam and crank seals out with no problem.
You've got the patience of a saint my man. Thanks for the video!
Doing this in a few days. I hsve done many Toyota seals, and just use a slim screwdriver with a small hook hammered into the end to pop the seals loose. Going in use the washer and bolt trick, or just get them started and use a 3/8 extension to seat.
Thank you for sharing. This will save me thousands doing it myself. 😊
Very good video. I've watched many, even though I've done this job once before, I've not replaced seals. Only water pump, both pulleys, idle, tensioner and oil pump seal, the large o ring on it. I'm planning on doing all again soon. Yours is the ONLY one I've seen using the plastic pipe. I had this idea already and have the pipe too. It's nice to see it will work out as I was HOPING it would. It's nice to see people that can CREATE a tool to serve a purpose. WELL DONE. Oh, THANKS for sharing.
You're very welcome and good luck on your job!
TRUST ME IF YOU HAVE A 2001 CAMRY AND YOU REPLACE ALL THE ENGINE SEALS IN THE CAR , IT IS ABSOLUTELY WORTH IT, YOU BASICALLY HAVE A CAR THAT WILL LAST FOREVER AND BE CONSTANTLY RELIABLE, I REPLACE ALL SEALS AND TRANSMISSION SEALS ON MY CAMRY AND IT COMPLETELY STOP LEAKING, I BABY THAT CAR AND IT JUST JEEPS GOING AND GOING, I CAN LITERALLY JUMP ON MY 2001 CAMRY AND DRIVE TO ANY PART OF THE UNITED STATES OF I WANTED TOO. THIS CARS ARE TANKS AND ABSOLUTELY BULLETPROOF RELIABILITY,
We have a Camry as well and won't part with it for anything newer. You are so absolutely correct.
The screw trick to remove the seals worked like a charm (1999 Celica GT). I did not have the PVC piping, but used the spark plug seals from the valve cover (extra since I repaced them with the valve cover gasket).....cut off the rubber and use it with the old seal and washers to drive in the new seal (use the sprocket bolt). I did the same thing, using old seal with a couple of rolls electrical tape and sprocket washer (big) to do the crankshaft. So if you are short the PVC there is a quick and dirty ghetto way.
Good tip. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome. Just getting ready to run to get pullers and looking at the expensive Toyota seal installer tool. I think I even have the pvc parts. ;) Now I am going to sit back and watch your other videos before I start.
Thank you for the video! I was able to complete this process myself thanks to videos like this. However be careful using the screw as it's easy to damage the cam shaft. Be sure to remove all remnants of the old seal. My seal looked like it was original and was quite difficult to remove it also left residue that had to be cleaned out.AlsoThanks for the PVC tip. I went to Home Depot and purchased a PVC adapter that was the same diameter as the seal which worked perfectly using the bolt from the tensioner. The part cost me like 2 bucks. You can buy the $40 special tool or complete the process for almost nothing. The tool would be helpful if you have the time and the money to spare.
Good tips. Thanks for watching and sharing the details.
thanks for video i used a heat gun to make it a bit easier to remove seals
Nice tutorial. Thanks 😊
Nice idea with the PVC pipes!
Nice video !👍👍
Good video thanks
Thanks so much for this! Man, I'm about to replace the seal on my Girls 2006 Toyota Matrix. Do you know if the procedure is the same? I think it is, but I'm not a professional and it's kinda hard for me to find tutorials on the matrix. Thanks!
Super brother your video 👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿
I can't wait to do this (note my sarcasm). Good video, very clever idea with PVC pipe
Brilliant!
Great tips very helpful 👍
Bad. Using the torque wrench as the breaker.
thanks man
How do you know if you get the timing correct on these engines? Did you rotate the engine to Top Dead Center so both cam and crank sprockets would be aligned when you put the sprockets back on? This is the main thing I am worrying about before attempting this.
Yes, align the cam and crank sprockets with their timing marks, rotate the engine by hand a couple of times to make sure they stay on mark and you should be fine.
What do you mean by flat spot on the camshaft? The rubber strap snapped off trying to use that method. Apparently the bolt is torqued on really good. Also tried a 1/2 impact wrench with a universal joint, it didn't seem to have enough break away torque at that angle.
There is place on the camshaft that was machined flat. A crescent (or other wrench) will fit on that nicely to hold the shaft while the cam sprocket bolt is removed.
Great video. Do you have the OEM part number to the crank seal? Thanks!
Thanks. I don't have OEM number. I used a Fel Pro gasket and NAPA looked it up for me.
Excellent!!!! friend do you have the measures of both retainers?? i need to buy them.
You must be talking about the pieces of PVC I used to seat the new seals. They are both 2" in diameter. Cam 1:18 crank 4:15
The PVC is an excellent idea. Please let us know the type of grease to put on the seals.
I used automotive bearing grease
Dialectric all the way. Aka silicone
Can we use an impact to remove the 14 mm? So we don't have to remove the valve cover.
Maybe, but you will still have to torque to spec the 14mm bolt after. The valve cover gasket gets pretty hard and can leak on these older cars. So good idea to replace it also.
@@oby-1607 yes good idea 💡👏👍👌😀
And put some gasket maker on the edges.
I do notice that the upper looks more out then the bottom same has mine. No more leaks?
No leaks in the six months before the car was totaled out.
@@TheOriginalMechanic dang, and they sure are good cars once you fix the leaks 😄🤣😂
@@luimobilefixes5279 Yeah they are. I came close to weeping when I saw the car after it rear ended a pickup.
Camshaft seal? Take off the backing plate behind the camshast sprocket. Loosen but do not remove the two 10mm bolts on the cap above the seal. The old seal with slide out easily. Put in the new seal, then tighten the bolts to 14-foot-pounds. You do not need to drill holes or find a way to drive the seal in a tight space. Or go shopping for a piece of PVC pipe and the right bolt.
Crankshaft seal? You probably can get it out of there without resort to drilling, but there is lots of room down there to drill or do whatever you want. You also will have to remove the timing belt sprocket from the crankshaft snout. He doesn't show you how to do it. This is not a thorough video, and if you are not skilled, you can even damage the engine trying to do what he is showing you. Watch more than one video before you move ahead with this job, if you do not alreay know how to do this job.
It was pointed out that this just one part of a complete series of videos. I made them this way to allow the user to get what they need without searching through a 30 minute video. Loosening the bearing cap seems to be a nice tip. Thanks for sharing.
@@TheOriginalMechanic Probably, it is more than a tip. It is the right way to do it. I came upon it by necessity as result of watching numerous videos and a trip to self-service wrecking yard. The self-service wrecking yard is a great place. A place to buy parts. A research center. A museum and memory lane. And a place to get away from bourgeoise society and get with some people who are real for half a day. But every time I go there I realize, every vehicle begins with a dream and ends up as scrap.
I once ran a small car donation program for a charity and also tried to start a charity to promote college attendance. Doing this, I realized also that a vehicle it is not an asset, it is a liability, although a necessary one unless you live in New York or acouple of other large cities. It is always depreciating in value and it can get you into problems with the law too, civil and even criminal.
Another thing I noticed is that often the vehicle I was pulling parts from had less mileage than one I was driving myself and the interior was totally trashed. Sometimes I would think, what was going on? Were these people on drugs? And then I would realize, yes, they were on drugs. I don't do any mechanical maintenance on my vehicle except what has to be done and I don't fix the interiors except maybe to get another seat and I get crazy high mileage out of my cars. I have no idea what people do to their vehicles sometimes. A lot of it may have do with how people drive. I drive pretty assertively and I don't blow engines and transmission all the time.
@@anonymike8280 You are so right. Cars are the ultimate money pits. Early on in my driving years I learned to dread the call from the mechanic and the inevitable high estimate. So I learned to do most repairs myself. For years I have purchased older, cheaper vehicles and therefore avoided car payments. They are also cheaper to insure and depreciate more slowly. I would always have two cars so I could work on one while using the other for dull necessities like work. I like to think this car "philosophy" is one factor in allowing me more free time now to make videos and pursue my own interests. Thanks for the thoughtful and thought provoking commentary .
@@TheOriginalMechanic And I forgot to mention, if you want your vehicle to be street legal, there are ongoing costs that have be paid whether you drive it or not. Not to mention, if you don't drive it, things like seals can deteriorate. This was the case with my vehicle, which was owned for years by an elderly driver who did not maintain it very well. A low mileage 4cyl Camry is a great buy but it had oil leaks both front and back with the man's son, who did the selling, did not disclose to me. He was a very genial man, but I would say faked being in a hurry due to his family oblibations. So I would say, I paid about $600 too much for a 2001 Camry Solara.
Even if you store your vehicle, cost can still go on unless you put it legally under non-operation. In some jurisdictions, it is against local regulations to store a non-registered vehicle even in your garage. And some of these money-hungry jurisdictions will even cite you and also impound your vehicle and require you to pay all sorts of fees to get it back rather than just giving you time to do something with the vehicle.
Even if you drive a classic, the increase in value may not exceed the expenses you will incur, notably the collision insurance, but also increased fuel costs compared to a contemporary vehicle. Also, if you want to maintain the value of a classic which is also your daily driver, there may be other expenses you will incur.
But happy motoring. It's still a lot of fun!
@@anonymike8280 You are incorrect. The bearing cap is to stay torqued during removal and installation of the camshaft seal. I have worked for Toyota Motor Corporation for 20 years and that is the CORRECT way to do it. Toyota technical information service system will tell you the same. Although the following way will work its not fool proof.. Thanx for the video you took time to make!
Hello. I just did this and when I installed the seal, a small amount of the outer edge got squished and protruded out on the top. It looks like the same thing happened to you as shown at 2:43 (upper edge). Did you notice any leakage after your install? I'm trying to decide if I should leave it or get another seal. Thanks for the great videos.
It never leaked, although my daughter totaled this car 6 months later. I honestly never noticed that issue during the install.
@@TheOriginalMechanic Thanks for sharing your experience.
Is this the same for a 1995 Camry same engine?
Yes, exact same engine (if it's a 4 cylinder). This process applies to most engines in general.
My god man! Perfect way to scar the surfaces guaranteeing oil leaks for life.
Drill lightly on the center of the seal with a small bit. Penetrate only deep enough to allow a screw to catch. Just take some care man!
whats the pvc pipe for?
Along with the bolt and a large washer, it helps to install the new seal.
what size pcv how long and wide
I used 2 inch PVC about 2/12" inches long
@@TheOriginalMechanic thanks for the reply,i ended up trying it that way n fuck my seal up,maybe uswe the wrong size,i ended up buying a kit from amazon
@@TheOriginalMechanic 2 and a half inches?
@@nikovandh 2 inch diameter. 2 1/2 inches long
@@TheOriginalMechanic Thanks! The seal seating majiggies you put together are awesome. I think this will be the way I do it since I was reading you can pop springs out from the seals with hammering.
My car is a 99 Lexus ES300. I may just buy my cam/crank seals and see which PVC fit it right at a hardware store. Was the PVC pipe for your camshaft seal tool also 2 1/2 inches long?
I’m being charged 260. I’m so annoyed
that wasn't a bad price.
You missed so many steps. Dumb people need all steps
Yes, he forgot to show you how to open the engine bay hood