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Came here after watching Epic Gardening's video. I was very frustrated that he said adding rocks was "bad" and offered zero convincing explanation other than to just trust his word. Your video where you actually demonstrate the principles in action is 1000000x informative and I went from being on the fence about this to being fully understood. Great video! Thank you so much!
the idea of using crocks etc as a drainage layer comes from a time when only terracotta pots (or similar) with just one drainage hole (or none) were available and garden soil was usually the media. Modern pots and (REPUTABLE) commercial potting mixes have largely overcome those short comings.
Lol, im considering doing the same. I have some wood crates that i added some pea pebbles, mostly cuz i didn't want the bottom to sit on water and accelerate the inevitable root rot.
Im so glad the internet has people like you who are giving factual, researched information, even if it means that it may prove even themselves wrong. I truly appreciate learning from you. Please keep you the great work.
Nice video! Here are 2 important extra factors: #1 Soils have massively different rates of capillary action, and therefore different perched water table (PWT) height, and therefore different rates which the wet bottom of the pot will dry out. Peat evaporates water out of a pot more than twice as fast as bark. It has much better capillary action and so the water balances much better and faster than bark. So PWT's happen temporarily in all soils, but are only really a problem for bark-based mixes. #2: The classic advise about drainage at the bottom of the pot was for single-hole pots that get restricted after repeat waterings & bring the soil fines down to clog that small hole; so just a few thin pot shards are useful and not a whole layer of Hydroton; and it's only really useful in single-hole pots. This single-hole restriction in older pots can turn a whole pot into a PWT, and this was not accounted for in your tests. So the old advice still does have merit, if done right. Thanks for the videos!
Maybe because I am older; really, really old I am having a hard time with this. I have been studying it for several months and I have been adding a drainage layer for several decades. You presented the facts well. But here are more facts to ponder. Please read this whole reply... and since I am so old you should read it slowly, of course. I use LECA in the bottom of my pots. Go ahead, call the firing squad. My potting soil is extremely well drained, even my most moisture retentive mix is fast draining. Someone else mentioned the air within the drainage layer of gravel, LECA, Hydroton, etc. I agree with that and I think air is ultra magical like unicorns. I have saucers under my pots only to protect furniture; I pour off any excess water. I don't believe the perched water is going to create trouble for my plant that lives in well draining soil. I rather think it will be beneficial! The soil out of the reach of roots is dead to the plant. The plant's roots bring AIR to it's area and keeps the soil alive and breathing. A pot that is too big makes BIG trouble. Are you still awake? So I think the unemployed or DEAD soil WILL hold water, but not the employed soil. My drainage layer isn't deep; 2" at best. The water perched just above it is necessary IMHO to provide moisture for the plant. I use a soil probe and it dries out within a few days. I have never seen rotting roots amongst my happy houseplants. Maybe there are a lot of variables to this whole topic. IF your soil is poorly drained, it's trouble whether you have a perched water table or not. IF your pot is too large, it's trouble whether you have a perched water table or not. IF you have a saucer full of water, it's trouble whether you have a perched water table or not. Etc., etc., etc. Many facets. So maybe the PWT is not the problem unless it is coupled with a real problem. I think you should make this a series, Part 1, Part 2 ….. Part 47, until us old people who are too lazy to do our own experiments understand. It would be interesting to see you incorporate a soil probe. This could be your life's work. Quit your day job, this is big stuff.
😂 I agree there is a lot to ponder. How quickly does terracotta wick the water away from the soil? Does air circulating beneath the soil due to added gravel have any effect on drying time? I plan to run another long-term experiment, just to see which dries out faster. I think in the end, what matters the most, is what type of soil you're using. If you are using gravel or any bulky mix at the bottom of your pot that elevates the soil, you need to take the PWT into account and use a coarse soil that reduces the height of the PWT.
You are quite right that the pot should not be too large for the plant - roots should reach the edges and bottom of the pot fairly soon after being repotted. If the roots do not grow into the soil and dry it out, anoxic conditions can encourage harmful microbes to proliferate and rot the plant's roots. However, adding a layer of drainage material to a pot doesn't reduce the water held in the soil above it, nor is it necessary to aerate the soil, since as you said, the plant's roots will do that. Also, the drainage layer takes up space that the plant could be using to grow in. That said, while the drainage layer isn't really beneficial, the perched water table it creates won't do any harm either if an open, airy, well drained soil is used and the frequency of watering is appropriate - I agree that your plants probably appreciate the extra moisture, since they have less soil from which to absorb water. I just don't see why you'd go to the expense and bother of using a special medium in the bottom of your pots when it doesn't really achieve anything. But regardless, it sounds like you know how to grow plants well, do whatever you like!
@David Paul oh contraire mes ami. Whilst i can concur with much of what you say, i must vehemently disagree with the idea of all the media being the same size. A good friable 'garden' soil with a 'fine tilth' ie it will crumble in your hand with gentle manipulation, as it is comprised of various sized mineral particles (sand, silt & clay) with OM (acting as the gentle bond of particles) is what modern REPUTABLE commercial potting mix mfrs are trying to emulate. That is, with a good ratio of media and APS (Air pore space) and WPS (Water pore space). The aim being 50% media, 25% APC & 25% WPS (after draining to field capacity). As with the aforementioned good friable garden soil, the APS & WPS should be both internal (absorbed, within the OM)) & external (adsorbed, ie water clinging to the surface on the media) or filling the void between media particles. The more varied the media, the greater the surface area, allowing some moisture to be retained longer and thus available to plant (whilst not being saturated) at the same time, air is available. On the subject of Bonzai..... they dry out VERY quickly often requiring watering multiple times a day (unless in a humid environment) and that is more due to 'evapotranspiration' (air taking moisture from the soil) rather than 'transpiration' (air removing moisture from the leaf stoma which in turn facilitates uptake of water and nutrients from the 'soil'). Mind you, what you NEED to see some of the Bonzai in the rural towns/villages of say China & Vietnam. They are often quite large & in pots up to 500mm or more. cheers :)
the perch water table remains the same - yes if it's out of reach from the roots - great - you remove your PWT by secondary draining of the saucer therefore removing the captured water .....
I’ve watched this video sooo many times. I recommend it to everyone when putting rocks at the bottom of pots is a topic of conversation. The research you did and how you explained it, is so perfectly put together! 💚
Betsy, I think your explanation and demonstration of this is the clearest, most convincing one I've seen! Thanks for that, I will be changing my repotting habits in the future!
This is an excellent way of explaining the perched water table! Thank you for simplifying the chemistry/physics involved in this and making it so approachable.
You did such a great job illustrating what I have been trying to explain to people for ages. Thank you. I'm just going to link this video to kingdom come.
it's clearly wrong though...1 pot has more peat moss than the other. Since peat moss absorbs 10 x times it's weight in water the pot with more peat moss is clearly going to absorb more water. The reason why this test is wrong is because she's giving the same amount of water to both pots despite there being a different amount of peat moss. This video is wrong and spreading false information
@@GrowingDownUnder I think you missed something. She used the same soil medium against each other. One she used the hydroton pebbles in the bottom (same soil, just hydroton ad the bottom of one).
@@sapphirestrm that's precisely the problem...but she did not use the exact same amount of soil medium in both pots now did she? clearly not...there's your problem right there. Now you can't just give them both the same amount of water even though 1 has less soil medium in it. Because the result obviously will be it absorbs less water because it has less medium and now this so called study is flawed and inaccurate. I also want to see this study done with drainage holes in the bottom
@@GrowingDownUnder it actually doesnt matter how much water you add, even if you add less in the pot which holds less media you end up with the same situation, once the media is saturated, it is saturated and water drains down (if you want the physics : the surface tension of water between the particles of the media is not stronger anymore than gravity), if you look well, there is more water draining behind the less filled pot but the saturated zone in the media remains the same anyway. Pouring water in accordance to the quantity of medium inside the pot only leads to less water drained outside the pot, not to less water in the media, it's a basic law of physics, been proven times and times again to the point that no horticulture schools ever teach "drainage layers in pots" anymore, and accordingly it's never used in commercial growing either, when you buy any potted plant, you never find drainage layers in the pot. The only way a drainage layer would be any efficient is if the draining material had a higher capilarity capacity than the media itself, ie putting wicking material under a less water retentive media...
I realize this video is over 5 years old, but its usefulness and validity are eternal. Thank you for taking the time to explain and demonstrate the hydrologic physics at play! Personally, I put a thin layer of gravel at the bottom to help keep most of the soil from falling/washing out and to prevent the clay particles from clogging the drainage holes over time. 🤷♂️ Whether im accomplishing my goal or not will probably remain a mystery, unless I stumble across the answer or end up experimenting myself. Good luck with all your endeavors! 🤘🖖✌️
To solve root rot problems, i transplant my hoyas on pots with ventilation holes around them...so there are drainage holes (bottom of the pot) and ventilation holes (around the pot)...then i put charcoal at bottom of the pot, next layer is chopped coconut husk then my hoya from the nursery pot....then i fill up the sides with either charcoal or chopped coconut husk...so when i water the plant, the water goes out of the drainage holes and ventilation holes and the ventilation holes allow the air to circulate and dry the media...i live in the Philippines by the way where most hoya enthusiasts grow their hoyas outdoors, exposed to the sun and the rain...when it gets too hot, i water my hoyas 2x a day and i have no problem with root rot since my pots and media are well draining and when it rains a lot, then the water just gets out of the pot easily...i had experienced root rots before and i found a way to solve this problem...i just want to mimic how hoyas thrive in nature, in the trees where they spread their vines.....remember: good drainage, good air circulation, exposure to light or the sun, and also fertilization
I was gifted a spotted begonia that's growing like crazy, and found one of your videos on caring for it. I've watched two of your videos now, and just want to let you know I love you. You're just a gosh darn stinkin' delight, you fabulous goober, you.
I recently moved my small blood orange tree into a larger pot and thought I’d put a thin layer of pebbles at the bottom to help with drainage. Turns out after watching this video that wasn’t the best idea 😂. That said it’s a much bigger pot and the trees roots will be nowhere near the saturated zone so I’m not too concerned. This was a fascinating video, very well presented and explained. So thank you!
I'm currently starting to do a lot of research on how to become a successful (!) plantaholic and I was about to do that exact thing (putting hydroton under the soil). I'm so, so thankful I found your channel and this particular video. Not only did you stop me from making that mistake but you explained and visualized it SO PERFECTLY I understand the plant universe a little more now!! Thank you!!
I watched this video when you released it a year ago and is made SO MICH SENSE TO ME. But I have had the hardest time explaining it to other people. Being able to simply send this link is so helpful!!! I’m a visual learner so this was huge to me.
I never listed to people when they said this because in my mind I’m like “rocks make sense though? It works for me?” They way you explained it finally made me stop being stubborn. I’ll stop adding the rocks now... 😩 I’m going to miss doing it though. It was fun to do! Maybe I’ll put a spatial crystal at the top as a substitute...
Interesting, didn't know this. :) I've always just used large objects like shards from broken clay pots over the drainage hole to stop large particles in the soil from clogging it, or reducing the amount of water that is able to escape. I've had that happen sometimes when I've not done this. :)
I've killed a lot of indoor plants over the years. I thought it was simply from over-watering. Now I see it was because I always put rocks in the bottom! I'll take the 'Goober' title, you're well above that Betty. Thanks for the explanation. I won't forget it.
Fantastic video and great demonstrations of this perched water table phenomenon! I never new the reason why, but I had tried that trick of hydroton in the bottom of the pot and almost always got bad results. Now I know the reason!
I put some of my pots ON rocks if I'm worried about drainage. It provides extra humidity if they so require. But never IN pot soil. I always use nursery pots with LOTS of drainage.
I've always put rocks in my pots, now but it seems I've been living below the gubber zone with that idea. Just rounded up about a dozen plants for re potting and cuttings, and thought I'd challenge the age old idea of rocks in the bottom. Your demonstrations are fantastic as well as your explanation. Yes, there are other opinions to explore, but this is a sound explanation of some basic facts. Thanks for the refreshing mental refreshing.
This makes ABSOLUTE sense.... for pots that have drain holes...If your pot doesn't have any drain holes the saturated zone will be higher, and adding a layer at the bottom to create a false drain basin will keep that small saturated zone, and depending on how you create it will give you more time in between requiring watering thanks to capillary action moving moisture up from the drainage basin into the saturated zone as it de-saturates. MIND if the pot isn't deep enough to support your false drainage basin, a saturated zone, and a satisfactory unsaturated zone, you're going to have unhappy plants unless you water less and more frequently.
I'm a notorious indoor plant killer so wanted to try anew with some research. Your video was the first one that explained to me in a way that I truly understand. Thank you!
Thank you! Google brought me to you and this helped me so much! I was repotting a large rosemary plant using a cactus/sand/charcoal/lava rock/perlite and orchid mix. Thank you again! You’re doing God’s work. Wink!
Using the sponge to explain this was genius. I have been doing it right all along I guess by instinct. I have never used anything at the bottom of a pot. I cover the hole with either a coffee filter or a small amount of long stem sphagnum moss. I have always tipped my pots to get rid of excess water. In plants that are succulent, I will also place the pot firmly pressed down on top of a fluffy old wash cloth so that the cloth wicks out the water that has stopped at the bottom of the pot. The potting mix IS important. I use the same light airy mix for all my plants and I use a water meter to keep myself from over-watering. Succulents get less watering, tropical ones get more frequent watering. The water meter has really saved me: I tend to be heavy handed with the water, and it goes into the perched water level, which no finger test can reach. Thanks so much for this explanation. i enjoyed it.
Great video. You've shown the process brilliantly. I've used the tilting pot method but now I've got a better idea of what's happening behind the plastic. 👍
I don't know how I have missed this video all of this time, but found it today! AWESOME. thank you so much for taking the time to make it. really valuable info.
So the point is it just moves the saturated zone up which increases the danger of root rot. Very good point. But I think another aspect would just be to mix such materials at limited amounts with soil for a bottom layer instead.
You are a goober genius! Your video just made me realize why there is a plastic plug and string always stuck into the bottom of my nursery pots. Keep it up. Love the videos and your humor. I tip my glass to you 🍷🤗
Experimenting is the best way to not only know something but understand it. I also though about putting a bed of rocks to help my azaleas but at the end I didn't. I read a couple times that it was actually detrimental so weary of it I never tried. Interestingly, since I was more consumed in learning about growing basil I never learned about pwt, so I'm glad you touched the subject
I actually use gravel at the bottom on porpoise because, yes, moving the pot I get out more water and somehow I have a feeling that gravel makes the whole surface of the pots bottom more accessible to the air, so it drains more to the middle than from top to bottom.
I'm going to try doing an experiment to see which dries faster/better. It'll take a while though. But it would be nice to do a follow-up on that in a month or so.
I deconstructed a cactus potting today, poor thing just wasn't happy. My early attempt at mixing my own cacti potting mix,too much gravel in the bottom(yes a testament to the saturated zone) A wee bit too much sand. The rest was commercial mix. I put the cactus in a smaller terracotta pot, will see what the coming weeks bring.🌵
I got to say that this is the most educational video I've ever run across when it comes to plants. I have always been wondering why my plant roots are rotting despite following the "top dry 2-inch"-rule and then water 'till water deeply so water drains out of the drainage hole. So now, I finally understand that I have been potting my plants' roots too deep in pot - I've lost 4 Monstera Variegata cuttings because of this. Thank you very much!
The best example works if people have ever tried air drying a clothing product. You lay it out on a line or whatever surface that isn't necessarily flat... So when you leave it out and check on it periodically... You'll notice the crazy amount of moisture/water that's sitting at the bottom of the item maybe an inch or so. And the rest is really only damp or even dry.
Thanks for sharing this and removing your other video. I had always put pebbles in bottom of pots until a plant friend ( Pattymac knits) showed me the error of my ways. I have since repotted my plants to remove the rocks. Who knew? Thanks for this 😊👍❤.
I should probably get the rocks out of my poinsettia’s pot. Someone threw the plant out and its soil looked terrible and weird so I saved it, repotted it, and trimmed it back and it has been giving me lots of new growth 😊 The leaves have turned slightly yellow so the rocks at the bottom might be why
You don't know how many Aloe Vera plants I've killed thinking the same thing.... After two plants I actually added MORE rocks to the bottom assuming I didn't give it ENOUGH to properly drain. Thanks for the information!! So many sources online encourage you to add rocks to the bottom of the pot to help with drainage, you've inspired me to do some more research on this! Thanks!
Oh my! I'm glad this has been helpful. The most important thing is choosing a nice coarse soil for an Aloe vera, like a succulent mix that's real grainy.
I actually do this fo my outdoor plants and when thought doing it on my indoor plants too and I put some pots on trays with clay pebbles too for humidity. Actually found this video as I thought maybe my method was wrong. But thank you for assuring me I was right with my thinking.
Thank you for this! I've slowly been learning about the importance of using correct pot sizes for different kinds and sizes of plants and this added another layer of understanding. There's a lot to consider when choosing pots!
Wow I’ve learnt heaps from this! You and Danielle Tells are still my favourite plant youtubers. I did read some of the comments in your last video, the knowledge people have about this topic is amazing. So helpful! We all learn along the way from each other 😘
I am really glad that people were willing to add their constructive criticism (nobody left a negative comment) and it gave me something to really munch on for a few days. This was fun!
I’m SO glad to have found this video (and you!) I was starting to go crazy with constantly saying no to the number of people who tell me to just put some gravel at the bottom of my succulent and cacti pots instead of drilling drainage holes. I even went to a houseplant ‘workshop’ in my community where the instructor believed it was a great idea! 🤦🏽♀️ Her other advice led me to believe she wasn’t that experienced with desert plants but either way, the idea is definitely pervasive and I’ve killed a few Ivy’s by trying it out for myself! I’ve never seen good results from it, but didn’t have a well thought out way to explain why, and now whenever someone tries to convince me of this I’m going to show them this video! Thank you!!!
he he..... not all cacti are desert dwellers although those that are benefit from rocks ALL the way down as many of them are genuine 'lithophytes' (not the taller columnar ones tho, although they do like soil with ULTRA good drainage). When i say rocks, i mean things like various pumice and other volcanic rocks. These are often quite porous allowing moisture and certain bacteria to slowly act on the rock to SLOWLY make minerals available.
Very informative! I have a question... Regarding "unsaturated zone" where plant roots should grow and get nourishment, >how can you keep that zone moist longer and suited for vegetable plants? >do you have guides or tips about keeping you plant roots to stay healthy, hydrated and free from root rot under that zone? >what is an ideal time frame to keep that zone well moist? Thank you.
I'm offended that you deliberately spilled wine on the table, that is alcohol abuse!😜 Interesting video, never gave it much thought, but I've always been one to tilt my pots and give them a little shake to drain them.
the idea of using crocks etc as a drainage layer comes from a time when only terracotta pots (or similar) with just one drainage hole (or none) were available and garden soil was usually the media. Modern pots and (REPUTABLE) commercial potting mixes have largely overcome those short comings.
As a fellow Goober, I really enjoyed your video about this! I never knew why I tilted my pots at 45 degrees when draining the excess water, but just always have. Now, I know why thanks to you! Makes so much sense! Keep being awesome 🍀🌷🌿🌱
Boy, I started going down that rabbit hole for about an hour and then was like "I don't even have bonsai what am I doing?" 😂 I decided not to mention it in my video since it isn't my area of expertise and I didn't want to honk off any bonsai enthusiasts! Thanks for watching and commenting.
this is the most helpful video i've watched in regards to water levels within the plant pot and how that affects what size of pot you should use etc. Thank you so much for breaking it down so thoroughly!!
Thank you soooooooooooo much for an in depth video on this subject. I love when people do more in depth explanations as to why we do certain things and not just follow like sheep. It must makes sense and I wanna thank you for making complete sense with this subject,🙏 but on the other hand....now I have to go and repot a few of my plants which are in very tall pots that has large pumice rocks at the bottom. Lol haha
I usually put one layer of rocks down just to get the dirt off the drainage holes and I’ve always had pretty good luck with it! Only one layer though, I literally find rocks and fit them into place together. Lol. I’m here from Jenna Marbles btw! 💜
I haven't heard about people having issues with that, I think it's a fine idea. I don't do it since I keep all my pots on saucers so dirt doesn't get everywhere. Thank you so much for checking out my channel! 💚
Hi Betsy: WOW!!! After I saw your last video, all I could think about was that a swampy atmosphere would be created. We all know that that is not their natural atmosphere. They have a tiny layer of soil that they live in. Fast draining is the answer. A mix of 3-1-1-1/4 always works for me. The water runs out immediately. Your back wall looks amazing.
This video reminded me of a project that my best friend & I did together in 4-H Club...many years ago. I hadn't thought of that in years & I thank you for bringing a sweet memory of another time and place back to me. The facts in this video should cause lots of your followers to reconsider their usual planting/watering practices. Thanks for sharing! 🌾💜
I was about to buy more lava rocks for the bottom of my pots. Great visual explanation of the saturated/unsaturated zone at 7:00! This was super helpful, thanks!
Hmm... A lot to learn and realization in this video. Now I know the things I wondering all the time is call perch water table. Thank you! I used to put a few plants with a lot of gravel or leca at the bottom of the pot and I realize the plant did not grow well as I expected. On the other hand, I also realize if I just put a single gravel/leca thick layer at the bottom of the soil it does help to drain the excess water better. And sometime after I water my plant and I will leave them sitting on the edge of the kerb in an angled position to drain out the excess water and it really helps XD
Ahaa! solved my mystery (09:00). Every time I butom water a plant, I let it sit to drain before returning to its place. But there's always suddenly a LOT more water to drain when I put the pot on an angle - water flows out at 45°, when there was only a few drips standing upright!
Oh after watching this video, I immediately went to repot and check on my diffenbachia --which are apparently very hardy but mine kept giving yellow leaves. I had originally potted in a pot with no drainage thinking (from what the internet told me) that putting rocks at the bottom would imitate a draining system. Upon checking it out right now, I found that my plant had compacted its roots to avoid the saturated zone - making it unhappy. All good, I've repotted it into a proper drainage pot with holes now! Ah. Hopefully I'll see a happy diffenbachia.
So my thing is is that I've never just put plain rocks at the bottom of the bottom... I've always assumed you were supposed to mix soils with gravel at the bottom, a little less gravel with soil, and then soil. Always have done a 3 step up but never just plain rocks at the bottom. I don't have a huge variety of plants so I don't really very my soul techniques. But going forward as I branch out this is awesome info to keep in mind. But I have always had luck with my method!
like MickieM, i am also somewhat older, however i vividly remember an experiment in 'soil management' when i studied horticulture in the late '80s. We taped up bottom of pots (several different grades of media and various sized pots) and filled pots with water and recorded the volume of water used. Next, removed tape, to allow pots to drain to 'field capacity' and recorded the volume of drainage. Thus we now knew the volume of water in various media and pots to reach field capacity. Next pots tilted to 45º and volume recorded. Admittedly the tilted volume did not account for ALL the PWT, but it was nonetheless quite astounding. The finer the mix, the greater the PWT volume and obviously the coarser mix the PWT volume was less. But the coarser mix also had a much reduced field capacity and thus would dry out faster requiring more frequent watering, which would be fine for such plants such as many Australian natives. But the finer mix remained saturated much longer (fine for the likes of lettuce) thus much less air and therefore more likely to create anaerobic conditions 'sour soil'. Watering to allow drainage to allow field capacity to be achieved also allows air (much needed by roots), to be drawn into the root zone, by watering or rain, not least because that is how atmospheric nitrogen is made available to plants. NOW TO THE POINT..... these trials were repeated with the above conditions but with various 'drainage' (sarcasm) layers and the PWTs were almost identical to previous results. Now for my concern which is the use of UNEMPTIED saucers under pots which allows water in the saucer to be wicked up, back into the pot media 'helping' (more sarcasm) to maintain the saturated PWT longer. However, if chocs are used to elevate pot above saucer, it could be useful to maintain humidity, beneficial to plants such as potted orchids or other epiphytes. BTW..... great little vid Betsy :)
Hi again Betsy! You just saved me some money. I went looking for Hydrotone, but couldn't find it. I was going to buy it online. Not cheap. I bought a Brazil and it started to die back. I kept testing it and it was moist, but lower in the pot. I would not water it and finally had to do something. I took it out of the soil and into water. The soil was very dry on top. The roots were very immature and not very long. It is now doing great again. Thank you for the great videos. Gerry 😎
I was going on how much more liquid came out of the clear plastic pot with the Hydrotone. Who knew. Glad we know now. I will start to test the soil closer to the middle of the pot, not the bottom. 😎
Loved this vid and subscribed. You're not a goober. Plausible-sounding myths abound in every hobby; it often takes research and careful critical thinking to identify them. Thanks for spreading some truth.
Wow! That was incredibly helpful. You make it interresting and you illustrate it very well! I never too much thought about pot size, but I now see why it is important, thank you.
Good Video on Topic Thanks. Many Growers are using Capillary Mats with Vertical Overhang at Table Edges This will draw water out of Shallow Trays etc. The Vertical Overhang length, will simulate a deeper container of similar Depth. Also sitting a pot on Paper Towel for a moment, after Drainage will help also. This is the main Reason for very Coarse Mixes in Shallow Pots in Bonsai. Sidenote: Even Electronics Engineers are Goobers sometimes :-)
So guilty for this. I fear my Pachira Aquatica has root rot, so even though it's winter I want to save it before it's too late. I already propagated a little, but I wanna save my pretty trees too. I now know what NOT to do anymore when I repot my other plants in spring. Thank you for that. Now i'll be looking into a video for a good soil mix for my pachira. I'm already afraid what comes out of the pot 😫
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Came here after watching Epic Gardening's video. I was very frustrated that he said adding rocks was "bad" and offered zero convincing explanation other than to just trust his word. Your video where you actually demonstrate the principles in action is 1000000x informative and I went from being on the fence about this to being fully understood. Great video! Thank you so much!
the idea of using crocks etc as a drainage layer comes from a time when only terracotta pots (or similar) with just one drainage hole (or none) were available and garden soil was usually the media. Modern pots and (REPUTABLE) commercial potting mixes have largely overcome those short comings.
Same. Thanks for such a great explanation!
Lol this happened to so many people. That man literally just slammed it out there and told us plebs to accept it.
Excuse me while I remove all the clay aggregate I just added to all of my plant pots 😅 thank you for uploading this video
😂 Right? I had to do the same.
Lol, im considering doing the same. I have some wood crates that i added some pea pebbles, mostly cuz i didn't want the bottom to sit on water and accelerate the inevitable root rot.
Im so glad the internet has people like you who are giving factual, researched information, even if it means that it may prove even themselves wrong. I truly appreciate learning from you. Please keep you the great work.
Thank you so much, that is so kind.
Nice video! Here are 2 important extra factors: #1 Soils have massively different rates of capillary action, and therefore different perched water table (PWT) height, and therefore different rates which the wet bottom of the pot will dry out. Peat evaporates water out of a pot more than twice as fast as bark. It has much better capillary action and so the water balances much better and faster than bark. So PWT's happen temporarily in all soils, but are only really a problem for bark-based mixes.
#2: The classic advise about drainage at the bottom of the pot was for single-hole pots that get restricted after repeat waterings & bring the soil fines down to clog that small hole; so just a few thin pot shards are useful and not a whole layer of Hydroton; and it's only really useful in single-hole pots. This single-hole restriction in older pots can turn a whole pot into a PWT, and this was not accounted for in your tests. So the old advice still does have merit, if done right. Thanks for the videos!
jenna marbles just shouted you out in her new plant tour video! ☺️
What? What? I just ran around my apartment in a circle. I haven't seen her most recent video yet. OH MY GOD SHE'S A HOYA HOARDER! I'M SO HAPPY.
Maybe because I am older; really, really old I am having a hard time with this. I have been studying it for several months and I have been adding a drainage layer for several decades. You presented the facts well. But here are more facts to ponder. Please read this whole reply... and since I am so old you should read it slowly, of course. I use LECA in the bottom of my pots. Go ahead, call the firing squad. My potting soil is extremely well drained, even my most moisture retentive mix is fast draining. Someone else mentioned the air within the drainage layer of gravel, LECA, Hydroton, etc. I agree with that and I think air is ultra magical like unicorns. I have saucers under my pots only to protect furniture; I pour off any excess water. I don't believe the perched water is going to create trouble for my plant that lives in well draining soil. I rather think it will be beneficial! The soil out of the reach of roots is dead to the plant. The plant's roots bring AIR to it's area and keeps the soil alive and breathing. A pot that is too big makes BIG trouble. Are you still awake? So I think the unemployed or DEAD soil WILL hold water, but not the employed soil. My drainage layer isn't deep; 2" at best. The water perched just above it is necessary IMHO to provide moisture for the plant. I use a soil probe and it dries out within a few days. I have never seen rotting roots amongst my happy houseplants. Maybe there are a lot of variables to this whole topic. IF your soil is poorly drained, it's trouble whether you have a perched water table or not. IF your pot is too large, it's trouble whether you have a perched water table or not. IF you have a saucer full of water, it's trouble whether you have a perched water table or not. Etc., etc., etc. Many facets. So maybe the PWT is not the problem unless it is coupled with a real problem. I think you should make this a series, Part 1, Part 2 ….. Part 47, until us old people who are too lazy to do our own experiments understand. It would be interesting to see you incorporate a soil probe. This could be your life's work. Quit your day job, this is big stuff.
😂 I agree there is a lot to ponder. How quickly does terracotta wick the water away from the soil? Does air circulating beneath the soil due to added gravel have any effect on drying time?
I plan to run another long-term experiment, just to see which dries out faster.
I think in the end, what matters the most, is what type of soil you're using. If you are using gravel or any bulky mix at the bottom of your pot that elevates the soil, you need to take the PWT into account and use a coarse soil that reduces the height of the PWT.
You are quite right that the pot should not be too large for the plant - roots should reach the edges and bottom of the pot fairly soon after being repotted. If the roots do not grow into the soil and dry it out, anoxic conditions can encourage harmful microbes to proliferate and rot the plant's roots. However, adding a layer of drainage material to a pot doesn't reduce the water held in the soil above it, nor is it necessary to aerate the soil, since as you said, the plant's roots will do that. Also, the drainage layer takes up space that the plant could be using to grow in. That said, while the drainage layer isn't really beneficial, the perched water table it creates won't do any harm either if an open, airy, well drained soil is used and the frequency of watering is appropriate - I agree that your plants probably appreciate the extra moisture, since they have less soil from which to absorb water. I just don't see why you'd go to the expense and bother of using a special medium in the bottom of your pots when it doesn't really achieve anything. But regardless, it sounds like you know how to grow plants well, do whatever you like!
Best. RUclips Comment. Ever.
@David Paul oh contraire mes ami. Whilst i can concur with much of what you say, i must vehemently disagree with the idea of all the media being the same size. A good friable 'garden' soil with a 'fine tilth' ie it will crumble in your hand with gentle manipulation, as it is comprised of various sized mineral particles (sand, silt & clay) with OM (acting as the gentle bond of particles) is what modern REPUTABLE commercial potting mix mfrs are trying to emulate. That is, with a good ratio of media and APS (Air pore space) and WPS (Water pore space). The aim being 50% media, 25% APC & 25% WPS (after draining to field capacity). As with the aforementioned good friable garden soil, the APS & WPS should be both internal (absorbed, within the OM)) & external (adsorbed, ie water clinging to the surface on the media) or filling the void between media particles. The more varied the media, the greater the surface area, allowing some moisture to be retained longer and thus available to plant (whilst not being saturated) at the same time, air is available. On the subject of Bonzai..... they dry out VERY quickly often requiring watering multiple times a day (unless in a humid environment) and that is more due to 'evapotranspiration' (air taking moisture from the soil) rather than 'transpiration' (air removing moisture from the leaf stoma which in turn facilitates uptake of water and nutrients from the 'soil'). Mind you, what you NEED to see some of the Bonzai in the rural towns/villages of say China & Vietnam. They are often quite large & in pots up to 500mm or more. cheers :)
the perch water table remains the same - yes if it's out of reach from the roots - great - you remove your PWT by secondary draining of the saucer therefore removing the captured water .....
I’ve watched this video sooo many times. I recommend it to everyone when putting rocks at the bottom of pots is a topic of conversation. The research you did and how you explained it, is so perfectly put together! 💚
Betsy, I think your explanation and demonstration of this is the clearest, most convincing one I've seen! Thanks for that, I will be changing my repotting habits in the future!
Thank you Sylvie!
This is an excellent way of explaining the perched water table! Thank you for simplifying the chemistry/physics involved in this and making it so approachable.
You did such a great job illustrating what I have been trying to explain to people for ages. Thank you. I'm just going to link this video to kingdom come.
Wow thank you so much!
it's clearly wrong though...1 pot has more peat moss than the other. Since peat moss absorbs 10 x times it's weight in water the pot with more peat moss is clearly going to absorb more water. The reason why this test is wrong is because she's giving the same amount of water to both pots despite there being a different amount of peat moss. This video is wrong and spreading false information
@@GrowingDownUnder I think you missed something. She used the same soil medium against each other. One she used the hydroton pebbles in the bottom (same soil, just hydroton ad the bottom of one).
@@sapphirestrm that's precisely the problem...but she did not use the exact same amount of soil medium in both pots now did she? clearly not...there's your problem right there. Now you can't just give them both the same amount of water even though 1 has less soil medium in it. Because the result obviously will be it absorbs less water because it has less medium and now this so called study is flawed and inaccurate. I also want to see this study done with drainage holes in the bottom
@@GrowingDownUnder it actually doesnt matter how much water you add, even if you add less in the pot which holds less media you end up with the same situation, once the media is saturated, it is saturated and water drains down (if you want the physics : the surface tension of water between the particles of the media is not stronger anymore than gravity), if you look well, there is more water draining behind the less filled pot but the saturated zone in the media remains the same anyway.
Pouring water in accordance to the quantity of medium inside the pot only leads to less water drained outside the pot, not to less water in the media, it's a basic law of physics, been proven times and times again to the point that no horticulture schools ever teach "drainage layers in pots" anymore, and accordingly it's never used in commercial growing either, when you buy any potted plant, you never find drainage layers in the pot.
The only way a drainage layer would be any efficient is if the draining material had a higher capilarity capacity than the media itself, ie putting wicking material under a less water retentive media...
I realize this video is over 5 years old, but its usefulness and validity are eternal. Thank you for taking the time to explain and demonstrate the hydrologic physics at play! Personally, I put a thin layer of gravel at the bottom to help keep most of the soil from falling/washing out and to prevent the clay particles from clogging the drainage holes over time. 🤷♂️ Whether im accomplishing my goal or not will probably remain a mystery, unless I stumble across the answer or end up experimenting myself. Good luck with all your endeavors! 🤘🖖✌️
To solve root rot problems, i transplant my hoyas on pots with ventilation holes around them...so there are drainage holes (bottom of the pot) and ventilation holes (around the pot)...then i put charcoal at bottom of the pot, next layer is chopped coconut husk then my hoya from the nursery pot....then i fill up the sides with either charcoal or chopped coconut husk...so when i water the plant, the water goes out of the drainage holes and ventilation holes and the ventilation holes allow the air to circulate and dry the media...i live in the Philippines by the way where most hoya enthusiasts grow their hoyas outdoors, exposed to the sun and the rain...when it gets too hot, i water my hoyas 2x a day and i have no problem with root rot since my pots and media are well draining and when it rains a lot, then the water just gets out of the pot easily...i had experienced root rots before and i found a way to solve this problem...i just want to mimic how hoyas thrive in nature, in the trees where they spread their vines.....remember: good drainage, good air circulation, exposure to light or the sun, and also fertilization
I was gifted a spotted begonia that's growing like crazy, and found one of your videos on caring for it. I've watched two of your videos now, and just want to let you know I love you. You're just a gosh darn stinkin' delight, you fabulous goober, you.
I recently moved my small blood orange tree into a larger pot and thought I’d put a thin layer of pebbles at the bottom to help with drainage. Turns out after watching this video that wasn’t the best idea 😂. That said it’s a much bigger pot and the trees roots will be nowhere near the saturated zone so I’m not too concerned. This was a fascinating video, very well presented and explained. So thank you!
So helpful! This video reminds me of Good Eats on Food Network. Love the way you deliver the info
Thank you Sylvia, what a big compliment. 💚
That IS high praise! Alton Brown is amazing!
I was just looking through plant videos to mong out too.... Turns out I got some education! So much wise.... A thousand thank yous! 😆
I'm currently starting to do a lot of research on how to become a successful (!) plantaholic and I was about to do that exact thing (putting hydroton under the soil). I'm so, so thankful I found your channel and this particular video. Not only did you stop me from making that mistake but you explained and visualized it SO PERFECTLY I understand the plant universe a little more now!! Thank you!!
I watched this video when you released it a year ago and is made SO MICH SENSE TO ME. But I have had the hardest time explaining it to other people. Being able to simply send this link is so helpful!!! I’m a visual learner so this was huge to me.
I never listed to people when they said this because in my mind I’m like “rocks make sense though? It works for me?” They way you explained it finally made me stop being stubborn. I’ll stop adding the rocks now... 😩 I’m going to miss doing it though. It was fun to do! Maybe I’ll put a spatial crystal at the top as a substitute...
Interesting, didn't know this. :)
I've always just used large objects like shards from broken clay pots over the drainage hole to stop large particles in the soil from clogging it, or reducing the amount of water that is able to escape. I've had that happen sometimes when I've not done this. :)
Oh man! I just did this with two 24" deep planters for a kumquat and hardy kiwi! Ugh. Thank you for the explanation. The sponge really did it for me,
I've killed a lot of indoor plants over the years. I thought it was simply from over-watering. Now I see it was because I always put rocks in the bottom!
I'll take the 'Goober' title, you're well above that Betty. Thanks for the explanation. I won't forget it.
Fantastic video and great demonstrations of this perched water table phenomenon! I never new the reason why, but I had tried that trick of hydroton in the bottom of the pot and almost always got bad results. Now I know the reason!
Thanks for watching, Doug! I'm glad you found this useful.
I put some of my pots ON rocks if I'm worried about drainage. It provides extra humidity if they so require. But never IN pot soil. I always use nursery pots with LOTS of drainage.
Betsy begonia is my favorite mad scientist: )
I've always put rocks in my pots, now but it seems I've been living below the gubber zone with that idea. Just rounded up about a dozen plants for re potting and cuttings, and thought I'd challenge the age old idea of rocks in the bottom. Your demonstrations are fantastic as well as your explanation. Yes, there are other opinions to explore, but this is a sound explanation of some basic facts. Thanks for the refreshing mental refreshing.
This makes ABSOLUTE sense.... for pots that have drain holes...If your pot doesn't have any drain holes the saturated zone will be higher, and adding a layer at the bottom to create a false drain basin will keep that small saturated zone, and depending on how you create it will give you more time in between requiring watering thanks to capillary action moving moisture up from the drainage basin into the saturated zone as it de-saturates. MIND if the pot isn't deep enough to support your false drainage basin, a saturated zone, and a satisfactory unsaturated zone, you're going to have unhappy plants unless you water less and more frequently.
I'm a notorious indoor plant killer so wanted to try anew with some research. Your video was the first one that explained to me in a way that I truly understand. Thank you!
Thank you! Google brought me to you and this helped me so much! I was repotting a large rosemary plant using a cactus/sand/charcoal/lava rock/perlite and orchid mix. Thank you again! You’re doing God’s work. Wink!
Very helpful!! Thank you. Maybe I've figured out what I've been doing wrong. Gravel and rocks at the bottom of my pots.
Very informative! I've learned about 5 new plant related things from you in less than a week lol love it!
Using the sponge to explain this was genius.
I have been doing it right all along I guess by instinct. I have never used anything at the bottom of a pot. I cover the hole with either a coffee filter or a small amount of long stem sphagnum moss. I have always tipped my pots to get rid of excess water. In plants that are succulent, I will also place the pot firmly pressed down on top of a fluffy old wash cloth so that the cloth wicks out the water that has stopped at the bottom of the pot.
The potting mix IS important. I use the same light airy mix for all my plants and I use a water meter to keep myself from over-watering. Succulents get less watering, tropical ones get more frequent watering.
The water meter has really saved me: I tend to be heavy handed with the water, and it goes into the perched water level, which no finger test can reach.
Thanks so much for this explanation. i enjoyed it.
Great video. You've shown the process brilliantly. I've used the tilting pot method but now I've got a better idea of what's happening behind the plastic. 👍
Thank you. I knew not to put rocks, gravel, etc in the bottom of the pot, but not why. This has explained it really well.
I don't know how I have missed this video all of this time, but found it today! AWESOME. thank you so much for taking the time to make it. really valuable info.
So the point is it just moves the saturated zone up which increases the danger of root rot. Very good point. But I think another aspect would just be to mix such materials at limited amounts with soil for a bottom layer instead.
Not sure I'm clear on what you mean, sorry.
You are a goober genius! Your video just made me realize why there is a plastic plug and string always stuck into the bottom of my nursery pots. Keep it up. Love the videos and your humor. I tip my glass to you 🍷🤗
Experimenting is the best way to not only know something but understand it. I also though about putting a bed of rocks to help my azaleas but at the end I didn't. I read a couple times that it was actually detrimental so weary of it I never tried. Interestingly, since I was more consumed in learning about growing basil I never learned about pwt, so I'm glad you touched the subject
I actually use gravel at the bottom on porpoise because, yes, moving the pot I get out more water and somehow I have a feeling that gravel makes the whole surface of the pots bottom more accessible to the air, so it drains more to the middle than from top to bottom.
I'm going to try doing an experiment to see which dries faster/better. It'll take a while though. But it would be nice to do a follow-up on that in a month or so.
I deconstructed a cactus potting today, poor thing just wasn't happy. My early attempt at mixing my own cacti potting mix,too much gravel in the bottom(yes a testament to the saturated zone) A wee bit too much sand. The rest was commercial mix. I put the cactus in a smaller terracotta pot, will see what the coming weeks bring.🌵
I got to say that this is the most educational video I've ever run across when it comes to plants. I have always been wondering why my plant roots are rotting despite following the "top dry 2-inch"-rule and then water 'till water deeply so water drains out of the drainage hole. So now, I finally understand that I have been potting my plants' roots too deep in pot - I've lost 4 Monstera Variegata cuttings because of this. Thank you very much!
I'm really glad that you found this helpful!
Smartest goober I've ever heard 😶....🤣 You explained this so perfect! 👌
Thank you, that's very kind.
The best example works if people have ever tried air drying a clothing product. You lay it out on a line or whatever surface that isn't necessarily flat... So when you leave it out and check on it periodically... You'll notice the crazy amount of moisture/water that's sitting at the bottom of the item maybe an inch or so. And the rest is really only damp or even dry.
Thanks for sharing this and removing your other video. I had always put pebbles in bottom of pots until a plant friend ( Pattymac knits) showed me the error of my ways. I have since repotted my plants to remove the rocks. Who knew? Thanks for this 😊👍❤.
Thanks for watching. I'm glad I learned the truth and got to spend days playing in dirt in my kitchen. 😂
@@betsybegonia 😆😆 Playing with dirt ? Where do I sign up for that?
I should probably get the rocks out of my poinsettia’s pot. Someone threw the plant out and its soil looked terrible and weird so I saved it, repotted it, and trimmed it back and it has been giving me lots of new growth 😊 The leaves have turned slightly yellow so the rocks at the bottom might be why
@@lunasapphirewolf Yep, it could be causing overwatering! I hope you can fix it. 🙂
Why Have I never come here?! I am happy to find myself in a knowledgeable corner of the plant world.
This has been one of the most informative videos ive ever seen on plants. Thank you!
Wow, that's awesome to hear. Thanks a lot for watching, Jessica!
You don't know how many Aloe Vera plants I've killed thinking the same thing.... After two plants I actually added MORE rocks to the bottom assuming I didn't give it ENOUGH to properly drain. Thanks for the information!! So many sources online encourage you to add rocks to the bottom of the pot to help with drainage, you've inspired me to do some more research on this! Thanks!
Oh my! I'm glad this has been helpful. The most important thing is choosing a nice coarse soil for an Aloe vera, like a succulent mix that's real grainy.
I actually do this fo my outdoor plants and when thought doing it on my indoor plants too and I put some pots on trays with clay pebbles too for humidity. Actually found this video as I thought maybe my method was wrong. But thank you for assuring me I was right with my thinking.
Thank you for this! I've slowly been learning about the importance of using correct pot sizes for different kinds and sizes of plants and this added another layer of understanding. There's a lot to consider when choosing pots!
I'm really glad this helped! That's wonderful to hear.
Wow I’ve learnt heaps from this! You and Danielle Tells are still my favourite plant youtubers. I did read some of the comments in your last video, the knowledge people have about this topic is amazing. So helpful! We all learn along the way from each other 😘
I am really glad that people were willing to add their constructive criticism (nobody left a negative comment) and it gave me something to really munch on for a few days. This was fun!
I’m SO glad to have found this video (and you!) I was starting to go crazy with constantly saying no to the number of people who tell me to just put some gravel at the bottom of my succulent and cacti pots instead of drilling drainage holes. I even went to a houseplant ‘workshop’ in my community where the instructor believed it was a great idea! 🤦🏽♀️ Her other advice led me to believe she wasn’t that experienced with desert plants but either way, the idea is definitely pervasive and I’ve killed a few Ivy’s by trying it out for myself! I’ve never seen good results from it, but didn’t have a well thought out way to explain why, and now whenever someone tries to convince me of this I’m going to show them this video! Thank you!!!
Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful. 😁
he he..... not all cacti are desert dwellers although those that are benefit from rocks ALL the way down as many of them are genuine 'lithophytes' (not the taller columnar ones tho, although they do like soil with ULTRA good drainage). When i say rocks, i mean things like various pumice and other volcanic rocks. These are often quite porous allowing moisture and certain bacteria to slowly act on the rock to SLOWLY make minerals available.
This is gold...so very well explained, thanks so much!
Very informative! I have a question...
Regarding "unsaturated zone" where plant roots should grow and get nourishment,
>how can you keep that zone moist longer and suited for vegetable plants?
>do you have guides or tips about keeping you plant roots to stay healthy, hydrated and free from root rot under that zone?
>what is an ideal time frame to keep that zone well moist?
Thank you.
I'm offended that you deliberately spilled wine on the table, that is alcohol abuse!😜 Interesting video, never gave it much thought, but I've always been one to tilt my pots and give them a little shake to drain them.
This is France, we've got plenty! 😂
No wine was harmed making this video?
the idea of using crocks etc as a drainage layer comes from a time when only terracotta pots (or similar) with just one drainage hole (or none) were available and garden soil was usually the media. Modern pots and (REPUTABLE) commercial potting mixes have largely overcome those short comings.
As a fellow Goober, I really enjoyed your video about this! I never knew why I tilted my pots at 45 degrees when draining the excess water, but just always have. Now, I know why thanks to you! Makes so much sense! Keep being awesome 🍀🌷🌿🌱
Thank you so much for your very kind comment. Goobers gotta stick together.
I watched this a year or more ago, tried to tell others and now I'm back because I knew the take home message but didn't remember the why 😅
Great explanation, there are a lot of folks in the bonsai world that have a hard time letting go of the ‘drainage layer’. Thanks 🙏
Boy, I started going down that rabbit hole for about an hour and then was like "I don't even have bonsai what am I doing?" 😂 I decided not to mention it in my video since it isn't my area of expertise and I didn't want to honk off any bonsai enthusiasts! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Betsy Begonia 😂 it’s super relevant with the shallow pots we use. I will share this video next time it comes up!
@@grobonsai Thank you!
this is the most helpful video i've watched in regards to water levels within the plant pot and how that affects what size of pot you should use etc. Thank you so much for breaking it down so thoroughly!!
Thank you for watching, I'm really glad you enjoyed this.
Thank you soooooooooooo much for an in depth video on this subject. I love when people do more in depth explanations as to why we do certain things and not just follow like sheep. It must makes sense and I wanna thank you for making complete sense with this subject,🙏 but on the other hand....now I have to go and repot a few of my plants which are in very tall pots that has large pumice rocks at the bottom. Lol haha
Really interesting and informative. Instinctively I did some things right, I always tilt the pots when draining them after watering.
I usually put one layer of rocks down just to get the dirt off the drainage holes and I’ve always had pretty good luck with it! Only one layer though, I literally find rocks and fit them into place together. Lol. I’m here from Jenna Marbles btw! 💜
I haven't heard about people having issues with that, I think it's a fine idea. I don't do it since I keep all my pots on saucers so dirt doesn't get everywhere. Thank you so much for checking out my channel! 💚
Hi Betsy: WOW!!! After I saw your last video, all I could think about was that a swampy atmosphere would be created. We all know that that is not their natural atmosphere. They have a tiny layer of soil that they live in. Fast draining is the answer. A mix of 3-1-1-1/4 always works for me. The water runs out immediately. Your back wall looks amazing.
Yep, absolutely. Thanks for watching, Loreta!
This video reminded me of a project that my best friend & I did together in 4-H Club...many years ago. I hadn't thought of that in years & I thank you for bringing a sweet memory of another time and place back to me. The facts in this video should cause lots of your followers to reconsider their usual planting/watering practices. Thanks for sharing! 🌾💜
Oh, it's nice to have given you a madeleine moment. 🙂 Thanks a lot for watching, Margie. I hope you have a wonderful day.
Brilliant! Brilliant! Brilliant! I always have tipped my pots, I didn't know why I did it, now I know, the plants were telling me to do it! (Smiles)
Smarty pants!
Wowww this video is so dope! Very easy to follow and informative. The cutaways to the experiments were particularly 👌 Keep up the good work!!
Thanks so much, I'm glad you enjoyed it!
I was about to buy more lava rocks for the bottom of my pots. Great visual explanation of the saturated/unsaturated zone at 7:00! This was super helpful, thanks!
Hmm... A lot to learn and realization in this video. Now I know the things I wondering all the time is call perch water table. Thank you! I used to put a few plants with a lot of gravel or leca at the bottom of the pot and I realize the plant did not grow well as I expected. On the other hand, I also realize if I just put a single gravel/leca thick layer at the bottom of the soil it does help to drain the excess water better. And sometime after I water my plant and I will leave them sitting on the edge of the kerb in an angled position to drain out the excess water and it really helps XD
Ahaa! solved my mystery (09:00).
Every time I butom water a plant, I let it sit to drain before returning to its place. But there's always suddenly a LOT more water to drain when I put the pot on an angle - water flows out at 45°, when there was only a few drips standing upright!
Thank you for this super informative video. wont be adding rocks in the future 😣 at least mine only has a thin layer of rocks... I hope they survive
Super cool experiment. Thoughtfully explained.
Thank you Debra. 🙂
Oh after watching this video, I immediately went to repot and check on my diffenbachia --which are apparently very hardy but mine kept giving yellow leaves. I had originally potted in a pot with no drainage thinking (from what the internet told me) that putting rocks at the bottom would imitate a draining system. Upon checking it out right now, I found that my plant had compacted its roots to avoid the saturated zone - making it unhappy. All good, I've repotted it into a proper drainage pot with holes now! Ah. Hopefully I'll see a happy diffenbachia.
Hey that's fantastic! Glad to hear you got it solved fast.
As a fellow plant lady named Betsy, I must say well done! Thanks for the homework, love your videos.
Omg I have so rarely met other Betsys! 😱
Fascinating thank you for showing the experiment.
So my thing is is that I've never just put plain rocks at the bottom of the bottom... I've always assumed you were supposed to mix soils with gravel at the bottom, a little less gravel with soil, and then soil. Always have done a 3 step up but never just plain rocks at the bottom. I don't have a huge variety of plants so I don't really very my soul techniques. But going forward as I branch out this is awesome info to keep in mind. But I have always had luck with my method!
I will NEVER do this again...Have lost indoor plants every year to root rot and had no idea why. My future plants thank you!
Perfect video.. before I added Lecca to the bottom of my potting soil😅
like MickieM, i am also somewhat older, however i vividly remember an experiment in 'soil management' when i studied horticulture in the late '80s. We taped up bottom of pots (several different grades of media and various sized pots) and filled pots with water and recorded the volume of water used. Next, removed tape, to allow pots to drain to 'field capacity' and recorded the volume of drainage. Thus we now knew the volume of water in various media and pots to reach field capacity. Next pots tilted to 45º and volume recorded. Admittedly the tilted volume did not account for ALL the PWT, but it was nonetheless quite astounding. The finer the mix, the greater the PWT volume and obviously the coarser mix the PWT volume was less. But the coarser mix also had a much reduced field capacity and thus would dry out faster requiring more frequent watering, which would be fine for such plants such as many Australian natives. But the finer mix remained saturated much longer (fine for the likes of lettuce) thus much less air and therefore more likely to create anaerobic conditions 'sour soil'. Watering to allow drainage to allow field capacity to be achieved also allows air (much needed by roots), to be drawn into the root zone, by watering or rain, not least because that is how atmospheric nitrogen is made available to plants. NOW TO THE POINT..... these trials were repeated with the above conditions but with various 'drainage' (sarcasm) layers and the PWTs were almost identical to previous results. Now for my concern which is the use of UNEMPTIED saucers under pots which allows water in the saucer to be wicked up, back into the pot media 'helping' (more sarcasm) to maintain the saturated PWT longer. However, if chocs are used to elevate pot above saucer, it could be useful to maintain humidity, beneficial to plants such as potted orchids or other epiphytes. BTW..... great little vid Betsy :)
Wow!.... This was extremely helpful to a plant newbie like myself.... Thank you. ♥️
That's wonderful to hear! Thank you for watching. 💚
wow mind blown! thanks for this invaluable lesson!
🤓🤓🤓 this was a great video about PWT! I must have missed the video from Danielle too. Checking it out now. You're great!
Thank you for watching! I have to catch up on your unboxings. You have a quickly growing collection over there.
I’ve added a small layer of rocks at the bottom of every succulent I’ve ever potted and never once had any issues.
Hi again Betsy!
You just saved me some money. I went looking for Hydrotone, but couldn't find it. I was going to buy it online. Not cheap.
I bought a Brazil and it started to die back. I kept testing it and it was moist, but lower in the pot. I would not water it and finally had to do something. I took it out of the soil and into water. The soil was very dry on top. The roots were very immature and not very long. It is now doing great again.
Thank you for the great videos.
Gerry
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I'm so glad I didn't make you waste money. 🙈 Thank you so much for watching! I'm glad your plant is doing better, that's great!
I was going on how much more liquid came out of the clear plastic pot with the Hydrotone. Who knew. Glad we know now. I will start to test the soil closer to the middle of the pot, not the bottom.
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You are wonderful at explaining complicated concepts. This nitwit thanks you! 😜
Hahaha that's really nice, thank you! 💚
I started tipping my pots!!
Excellent precise, concise, and scientific explanation and presentation. bravo!!!
Great way to explain it. I did miss the clay pot tip though. I've found it to be the best way to avoid root rot. 🍀
This just blew my mind. Thanks for the thorough explanation!
So informative!!! Thank you for doing it🙏
Loved this vid and subscribed. You're not a goober. Plausible-sounding myths abound in every hobby; it often takes research and careful critical thinking to identify them. Thanks for spreading some truth.
Thank you so much. 🙂
Wow! That was incredibly helpful. You make it interresting and you illustrate it very well! I never too much thought about pot size, but I now see why it is important, thank you.
Thanks so much, I'm really happy to know that you found this helpful and interesting.
I hope you’re right @BetsyBegonia 😉 I just repotted a whole bunch of my babies based on this video.
😅 If your plants die, blame the physicists, not the messenger!
Good Video on Topic Thanks. Many Growers are using Capillary Mats with Vertical Overhang at Table Edges This will draw water out of Shallow Trays etc. The Vertical Overhang length, will simulate a deeper container of similar Depth. Also sitting a pot on Paper Towel for a moment, after Drainage will help also. This is the main Reason for very Coarse Mixes in Shallow Pots in Bonsai.
Sidenote: Even Electronics Engineers are Goobers sometimes :-)
Saw 'perched water table' immediately thought of Al Tapla on the gardenweb forums. He's my fav guy for explaining soil science for container plants.
You just changed my plant game !
Thanks, I was looking for an easy to follow vid about this to show my mother.
So guilty for this. I fear my Pachira Aquatica has root rot, so even though it's winter I want to save it before it's too late. I already propagated a little, but I wanna save my pretty trees too. I now know what NOT to do anymore when I repot my other plants in spring. Thank you for that. Now i'll be looking into a video for a good soil mix for my pachira. I'm already afraid what comes out of the pot 😫
wow, i have been in the hoya hobby for so long and I had no idea. I learned something new today, thank you! :D
Omg! Your my plants saviour! I was always told to put rocks in!
Yay! I was too busy to get into it the other day, so I’m happy to see it got straightened out. I love the amount of detail and science you give us.
Thanks a lot for watching and giving me a chance to fix my errors, April! 😁