Thank you for making the video I am about to replace the rad' on the 1995/96 A6 as it is leaking. Bought the car for £50 19 yrs ago. It'd start and not start show all the dash lights then they'd go out. 7 months later. Found the bottom arm contact solder joint on the PCB of the eng' cont' relay was cracked allowing the arm to move away from the top arm contact by an inth, nearly a pico.
ahh Im doing the same job on my 92 s4. the OE west german rad finally had a crack on the upper plastic nipple. replacing with $300 chinese aluminum unit from ebay. side tabs and upper nubs line up with OE rad mounts, down to the MM. still had to drill holes along the upper and lower rails for mounting the fans and condenser. once the weather stops dumping rain down on me, Ill get out to finish it up. love the cars youve got! cheers
I've long wondered about those all aluminum units. I love the idea of doing away with the plastic end tanks and hose connectors. I figured there would be some customization needed such as drilling a few hole but that isn't too bad as long as it fits properly in the car and lines up with hoses etc.
@@SCARSORGofficial I have a DO88 hose kit as I believe one of your cars has, hoses all lined up and secured perfectly. The slight variance from OE was the length and thickness of the upper and lower mounting rails, maybe an mm or two thicker and few mm longer than the stock radiator. Instead of securing the fans with OE clip nuts (wouldnt slot down on the thicker rail) and bolts, I had some extra BMW ZNS3 (zinc flake coating) bolts and lock nuts to replace all of the tarnished OE hardware across the front end. Glad I went this route, feels well worth the time it took to measure, line out and drill the holes (first time really using a metric tape measure was phenomenal - remembering a centerline of 145mm or offsetting a pair of holes by 15mm vs 19/32" is a breeze..), used Locite Marine Anti Seize on new hardware as needed, and put it back together. Time will tell how long this lasts, the OE plastic giving a 31 year run was impressive and set the bar high. Will probably repair the cracked nipple on that one and put it on the shelf for another rainy day.
I did my radiator replacement last year on my S6 Avant. I went with a Nissen radiator from FCP Euro, and so far, no issues. I would recommend that when you replace the radiator, you check the power steering rubber lines in and around that area. My clamps had loosened causing a slow power steering leak by swinging out the radiator... I ended up replacing some of the power steering lines that go to the cooler. EDIT: My red 94 sedan still has the original radiator as well... I did a good flush on that one when I first purchased it back around 2017.
I've done several Nissens units in the past. Each is now over 5 years old... one coming up on a decade and both are doing just fine. Good call on the power steering lines as well.
@@SCARSORGofficialI'm replacing my radiator on my S6 now as well as all the efi billet parts and new lines. I have a question about the sensor in the lower corner of the radiator. Do you know of the part number or where I can get a replacement? I've tried searching the forums but could only find info on the temp sensor on the back of the engine that I've already changed. Thank you
@@urs6onfuturas975 That's the radiator fan switch. Likely PN: 191 959 481 C Confirm the number of pins in yours before ordering... 3 pin? www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/191959481C.htm?pn=191-959-481-C-INT
Ive just installed my new radiator to my c4 also. I have leaking from both trans cooler round connectors. Wouldnt these have been tightened in the factory during production.? Did you tighten yours befor the install. Is has 3 holes for tightening but any idea where i get that tool? Thanks , great video
You're referring to the two trans cooler lines on the passenger side of the radiator, yes? Mine are simply allen head bolts from what I recall. I had to use a long-ish pry-bar to help push the lower connection in place so it could be bolted in squarely. I did also wind up replacing the small o-ring gasket on them prior to reinstallation. I just used a green o-ring from an A/C o-ring kit and have no issues with leaking.
@@Dino_Dad. Ahhhh... now I understand. That's a bummer to have them leaking there! Can you wrap a rubber glove around it and get on it with some channel-locks to see if you can tighten it a bit?
Thank you for making the video I am about to replace the rad' on the 1995/96 A6 as it is leaking.
Bought the car for £50 19 yrs ago. It'd start and not start show all the dash lights then they'd go out. 7 months later. Found the bottom arm contact solder joint on the PCB of the eng' cont' relay was cracked allowing the arm to move away from the top arm contact by an inth, nearly a pico.
ahh Im doing the same job on my 92 s4. the OE west german rad finally had a crack on the upper plastic nipple. replacing with $300 chinese aluminum unit from ebay. side tabs and upper nubs line up with OE rad mounts, down to the MM. still had to drill holes along the upper and lower rails for mounting the fans and condenser. once the weather stops dumping rain down on me, Ill get out to finish it up. love the cars youve got! cheers
I've long wondered about those all aluminum units. I love the idea of doing away with the plastic end tanks and hose connectors. I figured there would be some customization needed such as drilling a few hole but that isn't too bad as long as it fits properly in the car and lines up with hoses etc.
@@SCARSORGofficial I have a DO88 hose kit as I believe one of your cars has, hoses all lined up and secured perfectly.
The slight variance from OE was the length and thickness of the upper and lower mounting rails, maybe an mm or two thicker and few mm longer than the stock radiator. Instead of securing the fans with OE clip nuts (wouldnt slot down on the thicker rail) and bolts, I had some extra BMW ZNS3 (zinc flake coating) bolts and lock nuts to replace all of the tarnished OE hardware across the front end.
Glad I went this route, feels well worth the time it took to measure, line out and drill the holes (first time really using a metric tape measure was phenomenal - remembering a centerline of 145mm or offsetting a pair of holes by 15mm vs 19/32" is a breeze..), used Locite Marine Anti Seize on new hardware as needed, and put it back together.
Time will tell how long this lasts, the OE plastic giving a 31 year run was impressive and set the bar high. Will probably repair the cracked nipple on that one and put it on the shelf for another rainy day.
I did my radiator replacement last year on my S6 Avant. I went with a Nissen radiator from FCP Euro, and so far, no issues. I would recommend that when you replace the radiator, you check the power steering rubber lines in and around that area. My clamps had loosened causing a slow power steering leak by swinging out the radiator... I ended up replacing some of the power steering lines that go to the cooler. EDIT: My red 94 sedan still has the original radiator as well... I did a good flush on that one when I first purchased it back around 2017.
I've done several Nissens units in the past. Each is now over 5 years old... one coming up on a decade and both are doing just fine. Good call on the power steering lines as well.
@@SCARSORGofficialI'm replacing my radiator on my S6 now as well as all the efi billet parts and new lines. I have a question about the sensor in the lower corner of the radiator. Do you know of the part number or where I can get a replacement? I've tried searching the forums but could only find info on the temp sensor on the back of the engine that I've already changed. Thank you
@@urs6onfuturas975 That's the radiator fan switch. Likely PN: 191 959 481 C
Confirm the number of pins in yours before ordering... 3 pin? www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/191959481C.htm?pn=191-959-481-C-INT
@@SCARSORGofficial you're a life saver man, that's it! And yes it's 3 prong. Thank you for the help.
Ive just installed my new radiator to my c4 also. I have leaking from both trans cooler round connectors. Wouldnt these have been tightened in the factory during production.? Did you tighten yours befor the install. Is has 3 holes for tightening but any idea where i get that tool? Thanks , great video
You're referring to the two trans cooler lines on the passenger side of the radiator, yes? Mine are simply allen head bolts from what I recall. I had to use a long-ish pry-bar to help push the lower connection in place so it could be bolted in squarely. I did also wind up replacing the small o-ring gasket on them prior to reinstallation. I just used a green o-ring from an A/C o-ring kit and have no issues with leaking.
@SCARSORGofficial yes I have the same set up but I mean the round parts that com with the new radiator . The part that the trans lines go into.
@@Dino_Dad. Ahhhh... now I understand. That's a bummer to have them leaking there! Can you wrap a rubber glove around it and get on it with some channel-locks to see if you can tighten it a bit?
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