Thank you so much for this valuable info and insight. I have dabbled in woodworking for much of my life, and at 70, I want to get good at it. You will be a most valuable source of information as I proceed.
Did the workshop with Rob this last July 27-31st , is more of a boot camp than a workshop at 12+ hours /day for a solid week but you only get of of life what you put in and if you think hand tool woodworking is in your veins this is an incredible opportunity. The new facility I understand has AC, the week I took the class it was in the 90's every day making it hard to persevere but enjoyed every minute of it and learned more in that time than I did in the previous 55 years of woodworking. Rob has endless energy he even went bicycle riding every evening after 12+ hours of class.
As anyone who has taken one of Rob's classes can report; you will learn more in a day then in any other class or video or book that I know of. In a week you will come away with skills it would otherwise most likely be impossible to acquire anywhere else. The student that practices these lessons will find that there will soon come a time when there is nothing he or she cannot make or cannot fix. Pretty cool stuff.
What type of steel is better to make the blades of the brushes, 01, A2, PM-V11? and with respect to the other brands of wood brushes, what is your favorite? Thank you.
Wood brushes? Can you elaborate on what you are asking? What uses for the brushes? As for steel choice for blades/chisels I'd call it user's choice. I'm not an expert woodworker but I kinda know metals and sharpening, as a knife user/enthusiast, Chef. I have a few of the newer "super steel" knives. There is always a trade-off with the newer metals/steel. If you are using water stones and you don't want to invest in a different sharpening set-up then stick with the A2 - 01steel. If you have a set of diamond stones then the PM-V11blades will give you more time between sharpening. The great thing about Rob's method of sharpening (and the stones that he uses) is that it only takes a minute or two to sharpen the blades and get back to work. I have a few Veritas planes and those lil retention screws in the side of the planes to align the blades makes frequent sharpening very easy, they align the blade perfectly after removing. I also use diamond steel sharpening plates but I don't own the PM-V11 blades. I also have Wood River, Lie-Nielsen, and vintage Stanley planes and The only advantage I notice is in the new thicker blades and improved chip breakers. In fact, I'm thinking of selling off most of my vintage collection to stick with the newer planes. I hope that isn't confusing and that it helps. John aka pinkie
Hello, I'm using google translator, I want to ask you which brand you like best between veritas and lie nielsen. I also want to ask you which brand of sharpening stones you consider to be the best. Finally I ask you to tell me that steel is better in the blades of the brushes, thank you.
The scrubs really excel at true rough lumber, if you are buying your material already milled then you can get by with whatever you have. I can't speak for Rob's classes. Fore plane will be longer and the blade/chip breaker different/wider. Can you change the geometry of the blade? Yes, but you still have a wider blade and a longer/heavier plane which will tire the user quicker and you won't feel all the "hills & valleys" as easily as a shorter dedicated scrub plane. If I chose to go your route then I'd have a second blade for a smoother plane. The new scrub planes are pretty wonderful with that thicker/heavier blade, that is only 1 1/2 inches thick for this kind of punishing work. I own the Veritas version though the Lie-Nielsen is at the same level of quality.
Half the price is a very big exaggeration. As of April 2016 - The Wood River #7 is $259. The Veritas #7 is $299. While the Wood River planes represent a very good value, the fit and finish do not compare with Veritas or LN. And Wood River has a rep of poorly made pieces that inexplicably make it through QC.
9 Months late, but whatever. The #7 is the exception. Take a look at the price of the WR #4 or #5. That's where he's getting the "half the price." As far as the QC, if one slips through QC that isn't up to snuff, easy fix...take it back and get another.
Frank Haus And what do you do when you take it back and the replacements have the same issue? When I took back a block plane, the Woodcraft employee opened all 4 block planes he had left in stock and they all had the same problem. Your easy fix wasn't so easy in my case.
I guess "ask for a refund" is too simple of an answer? I just bought my first WR, a #4. In less than 10 minutes of tuning, and I'm a lousy plane tuner, I was getting transparent shavings. Not bad for half the price of the LN I almost bought in it's stead.
If you want to see the actual projects he makes from start to finish, they are available as part of the online workshop on RobCosman.com. Current project is a "Standing Desk"
Hi Nicholas, if you are referring to the class, a small candle box from scratch will be the project starting in 2020. Right now it is just learning dovetails, mortise/tenon, dimensioning rough lumber and learning free hand sharpening
I do not agree with the 6 inch rule trick at all .Think about it everyone it absolutely makes no sense at all..Taken to the ultimate conclusion you would have 2 bevels at an angle instead of 1 bevel at a 90 deg plane .
The simple reality is that the ruler trick works! It's simple, works every time, and dramatically reduces time spent on sharpening to about 30 seconds.
Хобби
Thank you so much for this valuable info and insight. I have dabbled in woodworking for much of my life, and at 70, I want to get good at it. You will be a most valuable source of information as I proceed.
As I predicted a year ago, you have been a valuable source. Thank you again!
Did the workshop with Rob this last July 27-31st , is more of a boot camp than a workshop at 12+ hours /day for a solid week but you only get of of life what you put in and if you think hand tool woodworking is in your veins this is an incredible opportunity. The new facility I understand has AC, the week I took the class it was in the 90's every day making it hard to persevere but enjoyed every minute of it and learned more in that time than I did in the previous 55 years of woodworking. Rob has endless energy he even went bicycle riding every evening after 12+ hours of class.
M
thangs for all information that give us
As anyone who has taken one of Rob's classes can report; you will learn more in a day then in any other class or video or book that I know of. In a week you will come away with skills it would otherwise most likely be impossible to acquire anywhere else.
The student that practices these lessons will find that there will soon come a time when there is nothing he or she cannot make or cannot fix. Pretty cool stuff.
Thanks Laurence!
what hone oil do you use .
What type of steel is better to make the blades of the brushes, 01, A2, PM-V11? and with respect to the other brands of wood brushes, what is your favorite? Thank you.
Wood brushes? Can you elaborate on what you are asking? What uses for the brushes?
As for steel choice for blades/chisels I'd call it user's choice. I'm not an expert woodworker but I kinda know metals and sharpening, as a knife user/enthusiast, Chef. I have a few of the newer "super steel" knives. There is always a trade-off with the newer metals/steel. If you are using water stones and you don't want to invest in a different sharpening set-up then stick with the A2 - 01steel. If you have a set of diamond stones then the PM-V11blades will give you more time between sharpening.
The great thing about Rob's method of sharpening (and the stones that he uses) is that it only takes a minute or two to sharpen the blades and get back to work. I have a few Veritas planes and those lil retention screws in the side of the planes to align the blades makes frequent sharpening very easy, they align the blade perfectly after removing. I also use diamond steel sharpening plates but I don't own the PM-V11 blades. I also have Wood River, Lie-Nielsen, and vintage Stanley planes and The only advantage I notice is in the new thicker blades and improved chip breakers. In fact, I'm thinking of selling off most of my vintage collection to stick with the newer planes.
I hope that isn't confusing and that it helps.
John aka pinkie
Hello, I'm using google translator, I want to ask you which brand you like best between veritas and lie nielsen.
I also want to ask you which brand of sharpening stones you consider to be the best.
Finally I ask you to tell me that steel is better in the blades of the brushes, thank you.
For sharpening stones he's using shapton glass stones and a trend diamond stone.
Where can I find the steel rule?
What do you think about the modern wooden planes
what do you mean by edgal
How much are you hands on classes and where do you hold them?
Thank you. Hope I get to join your class this year. I’ve learned a lot just from your RUclips videos and would love the chance to learn personally.
Could a fore plane be substituted for the scrub plane?
The scrubs really excel at true rough lumber, if you are buying your material already milled then you can get by with whatever you have. I can't speak for Rob's classes.
Fore plane will be longer and the blade/chip breaker different/wider. Can you change the geometry of the blade? Yes, but you still have a wider blade and a longer/heavier plane which will tire the user quicker and you won't feel all the "hills & valleys" as easily as a shorter dedicated scrub plane. If I chose to go your route then I'd have a second blade for a smoother plane. The new scrub planes are pretty wonderful with that thicker/heavier blade, that is only 1 1/2 inches thick for this kind of punishing work. I own the Veritas version though the Lie-Nielsen is at the same level of quality.
Has anybody ever said you look like Raymond Bourque the retired captaining Boston Bruins ?
Half the price is a very big exaggeration. As of April 2016 - The Wood River #7 is $259. The Veritas #7 is $299.
While the Wood River planes represent a very good value, the fit and finish do not compare with Veritas or LN. And Wood River has a rep of poorly made pieces that inexplicably make it through QC.
9 Months late, but whatever. The #7 is the exception. Take a look at the price of the WR #4 or #5. That's where he's getting the "half the price." As far as the QC, if one slips through QC that isn't up to snuff, easy fix...take it back and get another.
Frank Haus And what do you do when you take it back and the replacements have the same issue? When I took back a block plane, the Woodcraft employee opened all 4 block planes he had left in stock and they all had the same problem.
Your easy fix wasn't so easy in my case.
I guess "ask for a refund" is too simple of an answer? I just bought my first WR, a #4. In less than 10 minutes of tuning, and I'm a lousy plane tuner, I was getting transparent shavings. Not bad for half the price of the LN I almost bought in it's stead.
Theball Player i
what do you actually make?
Nicholas Schrader free content for people like you. Enjoy graciously.
If you want to see the actual projects he makes from start to finish, they are available as part of the online workshop on RobCosman.com. Current project is a "Standing Desk"
Hi Nicholas, if you are referring to the class, a small candle box from scratch will be the project starting in 2020. Right now it is just learning dovetails, mortise/tenon, dimensioning rough lumber and learning free hand sharpening
he is a product endorser
Nicholas Schrader new to my channel? Have a quick browse before commenting so ignorantly.
Hey, Rob. Ty for yuor work. But seems you are sad...
a you tubr nothing more
An idiot and nothing more.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking To borrow from Sir Winston, of Nicolas Schrader "There's a Lot less there than meets the eye. "
I do not agree with the 6 inch rule trick at all .Think about it everyone it absolutely makes no sense at all..Taken to the ultimate conclusion you would have 2 bevels at an angle instead of 1 bevel at a 90 deg plane .
He is not alone. One angle on a flat blade, no micro bevels and no back bevels. Physics 101. Just enjoy working the wood.
The simple reality is that the ruler trick works! It's simple, works every time, and dramatically reduces time spent on sharpening to about 30 seconds.