Great job! I bought my pajero few weeks ago with the same paint job as yours, and i finded out there are some covered in thick paint holes in floor :,) several sheet metal workers refused to help me, even though I wanted to pay them extra (in my country cars on frame are uncommon), I was resigned, but I pulled myself together and decided to learn welding, I live in an apartment building in a big city, so it will be difficult. Your video helps me a lot, for example by telling me how to get rid of plastic, great job my friend i hope my dreams with overland car will come true soon. Big regards from Warsaw Poland!
Hi, amazing that my videos are helping people in Poland! Yes very time consuming doing welding on old cars but if you can put the hard work in it's very rewarding! Always clean the metal back, get a good earth, mess with welder settings to get the correct current and take your time. Don't weld too much in one place or the metal can warp. Good luck with your restoration and thanks for watching!
@@Steven_R_Taylor Thank you very much for your advice! I will definitely listen to you. Every day I discover new rust, but I believe that nothing is impossible :,)
Thanks for sharing this video with the world. I'm considering an older Pajero, and this gives me a pretty good idea what to expect and how much work it is to fix it. You've done a really good job there. You should be proud of yourself and you'll be able to enjoy that Pajero for a lot longer now :)
@@AddictedtoProjects Hi. Thanks! Yes it was alot of work for sure. I have another few videos to come. I steel sealed all underneath and added some colour coat and clear coat so stay tuned! Buy the pajero! Thanks for watching.
Amazing job! I would advise you to apply a welding primer before using mig/mag to weld, this will prevent too much HAZ which makes the material around not as brittle. Try to not polish the welds as much as you did. Pajero gets eaten up by rust so maintaining strong welds om rust affected parts and mandatory.
Thanks for the tip! Yeh I agree on grinding the welds but sometimes it's hard to resist going for that seamless look (not that anyone is going to see it)
Hi, thankyou! I think that's part and parcel of owning a pajero is having to have it welded at some stage. They are made by a company called Centerline, which I believe are American. 15" diameter and 33" Cooper STT tyres. Thanks for watching
@@komorayesse6949 Hi. They're 33 x 12.5 x 15 cooper discoverer stt pro. Wheels are centerline (American) 10j not sure on offset but they sit out alot on my pajero. Thanks for watching!
@@Steven_R_Taylor Its 95 2.8. The front end sits afew mm lower than the backend. I have always been curious about this but I am still keen on putting 33s. Got rust on the underbelly beneath the second row seats. This brought me here btw
@@komorayesse6949 Yes they do like to rust at this age now. I have another video coming where I clean and rust treat the underside. You can adjust the torsion bars on the front suspension to raise it fairly easily. I have done this but also have heavier springs from a nissan patrol in the rear.
The problem I see that there are gaping holes in chassis and panels. This would also mean remaining metal will of be compromised at this stage i.e. thinner. After repair this is still a danger to be on the road. If it was a one of the kind /classis OK, but it is not. So should have been junked and sold for parts and taken off the road
Hi, you are correct in your statement about the remaining metal being thinner, but that is just how aging vehicles goes. I check this car regularly, it has passed two more yearly safety inspections with no issues. I have checked the entire chassis over and it is still solid, in fact there is still factory paint on the front half in places. It is true it is not a one off classic but I have owned this for many years and there are no other ones I have seen in my local area. Scrapping it for parts is abit dramatic at this stage. Thanks for watching.
Great job! I bought my pajero few weeks ago with the same paint job as yours, and i finded out there are some covered in thick paint holes in floor :,) several sheet metal workers refused to help me, even though I wanted to pay them extra (in my country cars on frame are uncommon), I was resigned, but I pulled myself together and decided to learn welding, I live in an apartment building in a big city, so it will be difficult. Your video helps me a lot, for example by telling me how to get rid of plastic, great job my friend i hope my dreams with overland car will come true soon. Big regards from Warsaw Poland!
Hi, amazing that my videos are helping people in Poland! Yes very time consuming doing welding on old cars but if you can put the hard work in it's very rewarding! Always clean the metal back, get a good earth, mess with welder settings to get the correct current and take your time. Don't weld too much in one place or the metal can warp. Good luck with your restoration and thanks for watching!
@@Steven_R_Taylor Thank you very much for your advice! I will definitely listen to you. Every day I discover new rust, but I believe that nothing is impossible :,)
Thanks for sharing this video with the world. I'm considering an older Pajero, and this gives me a pretty good idea what to expect and how much work it is to fix it. You've done a really good job there. You should be proud of yourself and you'll be able to enjoy that Pajero for a lot longer now :)
@@AddictedtoProjects Hi. Thanks! Yes it was alot of work for sure. I have another few videos to come. I steel sealed all underneath and added some colour coat and clear coat so stay tuned! Buy the pajero! Thanks for watching.
Amazing work Steven. I have restored one car in my lifetime: never again. Requires a lot of dedication, as you demonstrated. Thanks
Amazing job! I would advise you to apply a welding primer before using mig/mag to weld, this will prevent too much HAZ which makes the material around not as brittle. Try to not polish the welds as much as you did. Pajero gets eaten up by rust so maintaining strong welds om rust affected parts and mandatory.
Thanks for the tip! Yeh I agree on grinding the welds but sometimes it's hard to resist going for that seamless look (not that anyone is going to see it)
Awesome video! I have to the same to my Pajero! It has 124k KM on it but sadly bits of sills has rotted.
Thanks! Yeh this was a labour of love. Probably wouldn't have bothered if it was any other vehicle.
Awesome video! I have to do the same things on my Pajero as well soon. May I ask what wheels do you have? They look great!
Hi, thankyou! I think that's part and parcel of owning a pajero is having to have it welded at some stage. They are made by a company called Centerline, which I believe are American. 15" diameter and 33" Cooper STT tyres. Thanks for watching
Nice vid. How long does it take in real?
Hi, took me around 35-40 hours. That includes the work on brake calipers and drop links.
@@Steven_R_Taylor Thanks! Best regards from Germany.
@@GrumpyAlf Thanks for watching!
Good work buddy...... I wish I had a lift when I was doing mine. Lying on the ground is not nice. 👍
Thanks! Yes lying on the floor is bad enough never mind welding while doing it!
What thickness sheet metal did you use to patch the inside wheel arches 1.2mm with 0.6wire ?
@@T4yyib11 Hi, yeh 1mm or 1.2 with 0.8mm wire. Just the way my welder was set up. Thanks for watching!
Hi, what are the specs of your tyres and rims. They look very solid on your Pajero
@@komorayesse6949 Hi. They're 33 x 12.5 x 15 cooper discoverer stt pro. Wheels are centerline (American) 10j not sure on offset but they sit out alot on my pajero. Thanks for watching!
@@Steven_R_Taylor thanks, planning on similar specs on mine. watching from Kenya
@@komorayesse6949 wow! Is yours 2.8 or 2.5. The 2.8 can take 33s with minimal modification because they have a factory 40mm body lift.
@@Steven_R_Taylor Its 95 2.8. The front end sits afew mm lower than the backend. I have always been curious about this but I am still keen on putting 33s. Got rust on the underbelly beneath the second row seats. This brought me here btw
@@komorayesse6949 Yes they do like to rust at this age now. I have another video coming where I clean and rust treat the underside. You can adjust the torsion bars on the front suspension to raise it fairly easily. I have done this but also have heavier springs from a nissan patrol in the rear.
The problem I see that there are gaping holes in chassis and panels. This would also mean remaining metal will of be compromised at this stage i.e. thinner. After repair this is still a danger to be on the road. If it was a one of the kind /classis OK, but it is not. So should have been junked and sold for parts and taken off the road
Hi, you are correct in your statement about the remaining metal being thinner, but that is just how aging vehicles goes. I check this car regularly, it has passed two more yearly safety inspections with no issues. I have checked the entire chassis over and it is still solid, in fact there is still factory paint on the front half in places. It is true it is not a one off classic but I have owned this for many years and there are no other ones I have seen in my local area. Scrapping it for parts is abit dramatic at this stage. Thanks for watching.
@@vikingdrummer9140 Yeh that comment was a little dramatic. Vosa wouldn't do anything, car is 100% legal and MOTd