Thanks for the memories. That lift has 1980's GM code system. The words "Flash code 12" triggered flashbacks to when a bent paperclip was my goto scanner 😆.
Went through the same diagnosing for the same problem on the same machine. All the same thought process and testing… bad ecu was the culprit. Thanks for the memories lol.
Back when I worked on construction equipment, all of it was old and worn out with things disconnected and jumpers around circuits. This was back before easy to access info found on the net. Giant PITA. Shuts off after 10 min, first I would check for a strong spark, a bad coil could short out and do this.
the round oil filled can coils didn't tend to do that, now the epoxy exposed metal core ones would break down from bad wires/cap/rotor. tossup between lack of spark and fuel injection spray... looks like ancient TBI injection setup, those injector coils loved to go low resistance and overheat/cook the ecm driver, I made the mistake of putting a used ECM in one and not checking the injector, needless to say a week later it was in the same boat (whoopsie)
It needs some serious maintenance due to lack of years of maintenance. Lots of obvious items are neglected which indicates owner doesn't keep up on repairs etc. Wiring and ignition issues.
I've seen a plastic bag in a fuel tank cause these periodic issues; when the engine runs, the pump sucks the bag around the pickup; when it cuts off, the bag falls off the intake, and it will crank again, Conventional fuel filters can also do this. I had to skim through this video, so I assume this is not one of those sky lifts with two new 12 volt batteries that some bright light connected the wrong way, so that the one battery you charged up is essentially neutralized by the recharging of the system after 10 minutes and the low voltage cuts off the system.
Hopefully the ignition coil wasn't weakened being disconnected while cranking. Also with the weather seal not mating correctly could cause moisture and corrosion to find its way into the ECM. Have to wonder if the tie wrap was really there to compensate for another issue within the module harness connection. And tighten that alt belt!
Corrosion in outdoor terminals will eventually give you problems...Clean ALL connections with Deoxit and then put dielectric grease to encapsulate the pins/connections...I have fixed countless problems this way...
liquid cooled/heated throttle body assembly, on propane in winter would likely ice up bad. looks to me the ECM coolant temp sensor is actually the one on top of TBI @ 15:13 while I suppose it could be air temp, I don't think anything that age had them. BAH I had the sensors flip flopped, I seen the lower one, but though oil pressure earlier in video, after seeing closer view it was clearly temp sensor body
I can't understand almost every car you are solving problems on has corroded terminals. It almost every time tells me "lack of maintainance". My cars never have corroded terminals, always clean and protected with Petroleum Jelly. For capacity checks i use a simple capacity tester which give me the CCA and voltage and health of the battery.
Seriously, how do you corrode the terminals, besides driving it through a large large puddle all of the time. Never mind, I drive my jeep through puddles that spray the water higher than the jeep. Are these people spraying salt water all over their wires just to see Ivan come work on their things?
@@snoopdogie187 Corrosion occurs due to electrolysis, the air around us has damp in it. and the terminal and clamp ere made out of different alloys metal.
That is one mad system, i would strip the plugs going into the computer and see if there was any nastys. Also do the plugs stay in fully, a couple of cable ties round the computer to keep them from jiggling about. Oh and i would run away fast, i mean really fast :-D
The fueling throttle body dose have problems in this thing.Should of be cleaning it out and checking fuel source coming in and make sure all the sensors works?Should getting this thing working again.
At this stage, would have 3 sticks of dynamite on hand, and politely told Bob to take cover. Would not apologise for my actions and would put it down to normal practice in extreme circumstances. A man's got to do, what a man's got to do. No codes and then what ? Try the fuel tank for gas ? Crusties on board, perhaps? Faulty coil ? The list is endless. Have a coffee break and clear the head. I'm under pressure and not even near the machine.
Reminds me of reading DTCs on my 86 Crown Vic with EEC IV. Have to use an analog voltmeter and count needle swings. My wife's 89 Probe with MECS II is more advanced -- just have to count flashes of the MIL. People with OBD II don't know how good they have it.
I can offer an explanation of the 10 minute limit of continuous operation. The appliance is a sky lift, and with gasoline operation (in Australia, something outlawed for use in enclosed spaces, due to CO emissions). It most likely has a time limit set on the ECM, for adequate dispersion of toxic gases (mainly carbon monoxide) with only a short time of operation (much less than 10 minutes) necessary to ascend/descend...
Yeah, it looks like a regular nissan car engine (I'm sure it is, why would that make a special engine for this) with more electronic controls on it. I would assume it should be at least 30+ psi, more than double where it is.
Wow, I am only new to your Chanel, I like the content, but did you put in the 10 adds or was that google because you left it on automatic for mid roll adds. If they are all like this I will reconsider my subscription.
Yeah other people have mentioned the ecu dry joints, why would a manufacturer fit an ecu above and on top of an engine just doesn’t seem like a smart place to put it to me. Don’t know if it has a crank position sensor I have known them to fail when they get hot and not set a code...
I would re check for spark and fuel supply while its not running, maybe a squirt inn air intake, i have know an ignition coil to get hot and pack up...F
Don’t ya just love them jobs that seem to want you to stick around a while Ivan? That blinking check engine light reminds me a lot of them gm cars back in the nineties. Even has a throttle body injector.
Is that ECM getting hot? That fuel pressure seemed a little low, but for a Throttle Body Injection system that could be normal. I would monitor the ign coil on both sides with the scope and does the distributor have a pick up coil or a hall effect sensor? This looks like a GM OBD1 system. I would also monitor the injector pulse with the scope. It's a 10 min problem, could be a thermal problem in the ECM. Or a bad solder joint. (Heat and/or vibration) If your losing power to the ign coil or the fuel injector, could be a power problem to one or both of them. A power relay, bad fuse, wiring or a loose terminal somewhere? Tighten that alternator belt also.
If this engine has a ceramic resistor connected to the coil, then that might be the issue. May have to change out both the coil and the resistor (if it has one).
I remember counting the flashes, that's some old-school stuff, try disconnecting the battery and doing an ECM memory clear by grounding 203, if that doesn't work go to lunch and don't go back 😀
Hey Ivan, My guess...possibly a bad computer Gnd....gets worse as engine warms up, and rough crank ups might be all related? Other possibles: Faulty MAP sensor, or it's connections..(could cause rich, or lean, or all over the shop) Ignition system related...(could cause rough run, and da black smoking) saw one good spark, but you had to get a lot closer to the coil with your test light to get a spark after that? Faulty Throttle Actuator....or loose throttle plate...Perhaps the last screw finally came detached from the throttle shaft and the butterfly has shut off the intake completely?...No more rattles now, but might explain the erratic throttle behaviour prior to a complete shut down🤣 Hard one when almost all symptoms match the possibilities....can't wait for Part2..lol🤣👍🇦🇺
Man. Those things are a nightmare of wires and safety’s. I’d check for high temp or low oil pressure. See if it has a time out timer?? May be a safety issue of idling for a long period? Trial lawyers love those things...
Could be an environmental thing that if left running with no attention or command that it shuts down and must be restarted if you don’t move it. If you extend the lift up will it stall or time out then??
Nope I'm disappointed with the Fluke. Small display, only one digit on the volts, defaults to AC volts and amps, banana jacks on the bottom...Craftsman is much more user-friendly!
If it goes out in 10 minutes I believe it has something to do with an electronic component because of the heating, I would see the coil and injector next.
I was thinking temp sensor faulty. 10 mins enough time to heat engine up and that fan coming on and interrupting fuel pump operation may be a programmed safety to stop you overheating and ruining the engine.
So, it shuts off after 10 minutes of running? Next step is: restart immediately. Could be crank/no-start, or it starts and runs. If running, does it run for a short while, or 10 minutes, or longer? And read all of the info about this thing, on camera. How are we supposed to diag with just the info you've given us, so far?
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Thank you for the extra info. I believe, you also said it just quits like it has been turned off. So it must be control. Check for an error code. If there's none, then it must be a heat-related bad contact in the computer, its connectors, its powers/grounds, or maybe in the ignition circuitry. (assuming that it would throw a code if it would be commanded to shut off due to overheating, low oil, hydraulics problem, etc.)
I'd guess that front sensor is a coolant sensor, but single wire for dash gauge, not ECM, it would be elsewhere and either two or three wire(probably two wire) since that engine has separate gauge sensor. trying to recall back to the age range of that dinosaur engine design
Spray all pins and check also check relays. Why only 15PSI with an injector that can't be right. OBD1 is very minimal doesn't show but 30-40 codes if that on this machine maybe 20. You may have low voltage again, oil pressure, bad coil after heats up and short internal, go back to basics when stopped.
This is nearly the same as my '88 Nissan Pulsar NX (videos on my channel) It's ECM was Pre-OBD1. Engine warm, it had a dashpot, you turned it to "DIAG" and it had 2 LED, green =1 and red= 10. These codes are in a Haynes '88 Nissan Sentra manual, and also here-------> www.apexautoaz.com/nissan-obd-i-codes-.html
I drove a 92 Pathfinder with something similar. I've never had to use it because the only problems it had were so simple to solve, even over 300,000 miles on it. One issue was the speedometer cable broke, so we never really knew the miles, but it was up there.
Indoors, out of the wind and weather? SWEET!!
@mchlross3 My bad. I forgot that one. LOL
Thanks for the memories. That lift has 1980's GM code system. The words "Flash code 12" triggered flashbacks to when a bent paperclip was my goto scanner 😆.
Went through the same diagnosing for the same problem on the same machine. All the same thought process and testing… bad ecu was the culprit. Thanks for the memories lol.
Back when I worked on construction equipment, all of it was old and worn out with things disconnected and jumpers around circuits. This was back before easy to access info found on the net. Giant PITA. Shuts off after 10 min, first I would check for a strong spark, a bad coil could short out and do this.
the round oil filled can coils didn't tend to do that, now the epoxy exposed metal core ones would break down from bad wires/cap/rotor. tossup between lack of spark and fuel injection spray... looks like ancient TBI injection setup, those injector coils loved to go low resistance and overheat/cook the ecm driver, I made the mistake of putting a used ECM in one and not checking the injector, needless to say a week later it was in the same boat (whoopsie)
that ecu is A PRIME candidate for dry solder joints
It needs some serious maintenance due to lack of years of maintenance. Lots of obvious items are neglected which indicates owner doesn't keep up on repairs etc. Wiring and ignition issues.
You forgot to say "New battery from NAPA, not a sponsor." Oops, sorry wrong channel.
I've seen a plastic bag in a fuel tank cause these periodic issues; when the engine runs, the pump sucks the bag around the pickup; when it cuts off, the bag falls off the intake, and it will crank again, Conventional fuel filters can also do this. I had to skim through this video, so I assume this is not one of those sky lifts with two new 12 volt batteries that some bright light connected the wrong way, so that the one battery you charged up is essentially neutralized by the recharging of the system after 10 minutes and the low voltage cuts off the system.
Hopefully the ignition coil wasn't weakened being disconnected while cranking. Also with the weather seal not mating correctly could cause moisture and corrosion to find its way into the ECM. Have to wonder if the tie wrap was really there to compensate for another issue within the module harness connection. And tighten that alt belt!
Wow, Ivan. Nissan scissor lift??? Dang. Man i gotta wait for the conclusion!!! Lol. Great diagnosis! Many thumbs up!
Corrosion in outdoor terminals will eventually give you problems...Clean ALL connections with Deoxit and then put dielectric grease to encapsulate the pins/connections...I have fixed countless problems this way...
liquid cooled/heated throttle body assembly, on propane in winter would likely ice up bad. looks to me the ECM coolant temp sensor is actually the one on top of TBI @ 15:13
while I suppose it could be air temp, I don't think anything that age had them. BAH I had the sensors flip flopped, I seen the lower one, but though oil pressure earlier in video, after seeing closer view it was clearly temp sensor body
When I used to work on aerial equipment we called those scissor lifts SKYJUNK
I can't understand almost every car you are solving problems on has corroded terminals. It almost every time tells me "lack of maintainance".
My cars never have corroded terminals, always clean and protected with Petroleum Jelly. For capacity checks i use a simple capacity tester which give me the CCA and voltage and health of the battery.
Yes me too.
Seriously, how do you corrode the terminals, besides driving it through a large large puddle all of the time. Never mind, I drive my jeep through puddles that spray the water higher than the jeep. Are these people spraying salt water all over their wires just to see Ivan come work on their things?
@@snoopdogie187 Corrosion occurs due to electrolysis, the air around us has damp in it. and the terminal and clamp ere made out of different alloys metal.
Ivan performs magic using science and logic!
Как здорово, что можно отыскать документацию на все, что ты ремонтируешь! Работа, превращается в удовольствие...
Zenith, the quality goes in before the name goes on.
That is one mad system, i would strip the plugs going into the computer and see if there was any nastys.
Also do the plugs stay in fully, a couple of cable ties round the computer to keep them from jiggling about.
Oh and i would run away fast, i mean really fast :-D
Very nice video, thank you. Find the missing wire for the temp. sensor.
I think that's just the sender for the water temp gauge.
For the fuel pump, I'd check those taped up repairs on the control box cable, where the scissors had cut it.
I'd look for the shutdown timer.
Thanks for sharing, I always learn something from your videos.
Throw a set of spark plugs at it. Is the exhaust leak messing with the O2 sensor?
Another day, another scissor lift with vague symptoms... this should be fun.
Go get em young man!!!!!! Wooiooohiooooo!!!!!!!
When are you going to titen the alt belt
Never fix the visual problems first....lol
I did after the squealing got annoying haha
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics thank you you a dr in my book joe
23:00 Ivan, that is the original coolant sensor on a Nissan A-series engine. please share the displacement, I am really curious.
The fueling throttle body dose have problems in this thing.Should of be cleaning it out and checking fuel source coming in and make sure all the sensors works?Should getting this thing working again.
Ivan I will wait for bonus footage LOL 😀
Take a close look at the pins and socket? might be something jammed in there, keeping it from full contact.
you can use silicone spray on those weatherpack seals. works wonders.
At this stage, would have 3 sticks of dynamite on hand, and politely told Bob to take cover. Would not apologise for my actions and would put it down to normal practice in extreme circumstances. A man's got to do, what a man's got to do. No codes and then what ? Try the fuel tank for gas ? Crusties on board, perhaps? Faulty coil ? The list is endless. Have a coffee break and clear the head. I'm under pressure and not even near the machine.
Those 4X4 lifts get treated like crap, stuck in deep mud, sitting in water all day, thats why you (rent) them not buy them
If you plan on any trips through Ohio in the future, lmk. I've got a funky misfire that might be fun to diagnose for a video. Thanks Ivan!
Where in Ohio John? I visit Columbus on occasion :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Cincinnati. I'll most likely get my act together and put the scope on it before then but just in case lmk.
Reminds me of reading DTCs on my 86 Crown Vic with EEC IV. Have to use an analog voltmeter and count needle swings. My wife's 89 Probe with MECS II is more advanced -- just have to count flashes of the MIL. People with OBD II don't know how good they have it.
I can offer an explanation of the 10 minute limit of continuous operation. The appliance is a sky lift, and with gasoline operation (in Australia, something outlawed for use in enclosed spaces, due to CO emissions). It most likely has a time limit set on the ECM, for adequate dispersion of toxic gases (mainly carbon monoxide) with only a short time of operation (much less than 10 minutes) necessary to ascend/descend...
Had same problem with a jeep , firewall connection was bad.
sounds like ignition or fuel misfire, bad grounds or ecm issue maybe
those are standard GM OBD1 codes. 14 is coolant temp sensor and as you say 33 is MAF/MAP.
Got a question
Runs like its missing and oddly eill rev up. But not sure.
15 lbs at fuel pump sounds low.
Yeah, it looks like a regular nissan car engine (I'm sure it is, why would that make a special engine for this) with more electronic controls on it. I would assume it should be at least 30+ psi, more than double where it is.
@Josh Smith at 23:26 he says it's a fuel injected engine
It's throttle body with one injector, kind of like GM TBI, so 15psi is plenty :)
Need an Identifix for construction equipment!
Interesting thought Mike!
Wow, I am only new to your Chanel, I like the content, but did you put in the 10 adds or was that google because you left it on automatic for mid roll adds. If they are all like this I will reconsider my subscription.
Welcome to the channel James! I always manually cut back the ads that Google puts in there...so every 8 to 10 minutes is the norm. Enjoy the show :)
Yeah other people have mentioned the ecu dry joints, why would a manufacturer fit an ecu above and on top of an engine just doesn’t seem like a smart place to put it to me.
Don’t know if it has a crank position sensor I have known them to fail when they get hot and not set a code...
My guess is when you installed the new battery you jiggled some wire to the fuel pump
Same battery that was in it when we bought it who knows how many years ago. What is it about construction companies?
Hell if you ain't becoming the master of the MEWP.
I would re check for spark and fuel supply while its not running, maybe a squirt inn air intake, i have know an ignition coil to get hot and pack up...F
That fuel filter was on the suction side of the electric fuel pump right? thats a BAD idea.
should always be on the other side.
Don’t ya just love them jobs that seem to want you to stick around a while Ivan? That blinking check engine light reminds me a lot of them gm cars back in the nineties. Even has a throttle body injector.
May be a highly sulphates, battery a lot of surface voltage only quarter.of batt capacity.
One thing Ivan's job will never be, routine and boring.
Did you check the oil an cooler levels?
Is that ECM getting hot? That fuel pressure seemed a little low, but for a Throttle Body Injection system that could be normal.
I would monitor the ign coil on both sides with the scope and does the distributor have a pick up coil or a hall effect sensor? This looks like a GM OBD1 system.
I would also monitor the injector pulse with the scope. It's a 10 min problem, could be a thermal problem in the ECM. Or a bad solder joint. (Heat and/or vibration)
If your losing power to the ign coil or the fuel injector, could be a power problem to one or both of them. A power relay, bad fuse, wiring or a loose terminal somewhere? Tighten that alternator belt also.
This is what I was thinking, " CAPTAIN SHE'S JUST GETTING TOO HOT & SHUTTING OFF SIR ".
Excellent thoughts!
If this engine has a ceramic resistor connected to the coil, then that might be the issue. May have to change out both the coil and the resistor (if it has one).
Bad swich or bad ground
I remember counting the flashes, that's some old-school stuff, try disconnecting the battery and doing an ECM memory clear by grounding 203, if that doesn't work go to lunch and don't go back 😀
"Go to lunch and don't go back"? Ivan is Russian, not a Yank.
@@rafflesnh xD
@@rafflesnh LOL... oh snap!
Hey Ivan,
My guess...possibly a bad computer Gnd....gets worse as engine warms up, and rough crank ups might be all related?
Other possibles:
Faulty MAP sensor, or it's connections..(could cause rich, or lean, or all over the shop)
Ignition system related...(could cause rough run, and da black smoking) saw one good spark, but you had to get a lot closer to the coil with your test light to get a spark after that?
Faulty Throttle Actuator....or loose throttle plate...Perhaps the last screw finally came detached from the throttle shaft and the butterfly has shut off the intake completely?...No more rattles now, but might explain the erratic throttle behaviour prior to a complete shut down🤣
Hard one when almost all symptoms match the possibilities....can't wait for Part2..lol🤣👍🇦🇺
I have been seeing your videos but today I have subscribe great videos keep them coming
Thank you! Enjoy the show!
I'm saying maybe a ground issue, maybe a circuit board issue. Something that fails with heat, resistance goes up when heat goes up.
Dead cell, ECU won't come on with low volt so engine won't run. Tale Tell sign is the low volt and the fan comes on. Its a default on Nissans I think.
quick shut down sounds like ignition
Is the low oil sensor possibly causing the shutoff ?
Man.
Those things are a nightmare of wires and safety’s.
I’d check for high temp or low oil pressure. See if it has a time out timer?? May be a safety issue of idling for a long period? Trial lawyers love those things...
Could be an environmental thing that if left running with no attention or command that it shuts down and must be restarted if you don’t move it. If you extend the lift up will it stall or time out then??
Ivan, what engine is that? looks like A-series. Do you know?
Do you not use your new Fluke amp meter anymore?
Nope I'm disappointed with the Fluke. Small display, only one digit on the volts, defaults to AC volts and amps, banana jacks on the bottom...Craftsman is much more user-friendly!
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics thank you. I was considering buying one. Lol
A thermoswitch on the coolant sensor ?
Did you ever switch back to gasoline or are you still in propane mode?
Out of fuel ?
So no low volt
If it goes out in 10 minutes I believe it has something to do with an electronic component because of the heating, I would see the coil and injector next.
I was thinking temp sensor faulty. 10 mins enough time to heat engine up and that fan coming on and interrupting fuel pump operation may be a programmed safety to stop you overheating and ruining the engine.
Well maybe not programmed, just a changeover relay could do the job when it hits overheat temperatures?
Sounds like a 2 stroke motor cycle.
Go back and checkout throttle body after that 10 min stall?
I would give it a service & see how it runs then.
So, it shuts off after 10 minutes of running? Next step is: restart immediately. Could be crank/no-start, or it starts and runs. If running, does it run for a short while, or 10 minutes, or longer? And read all of the info about this thing, on camera.
How are we supposed to diag with just the info you've given us, so far?
It's unpredicatable after the 10-minute good run...
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Thank you for the extra info. I believe, you also said it just quits like it has been turned off. So it must be control. Check for an error code. If there's none, then it must be a heat-related bad contact in the computer, its connectors, its powers/grounds, or maybe in the ignition circuitry. (assuming that it would throw a code if it would be commanded to shut off due to overheating, low oil, hydraulics problem, etc.)
That thing runs like an engine in a Bugs Bunny cartoon...😃
Welcome to good old fashioned OBD 1... counting flashes...
Another cliffhanger, soooo cruel
$1.99 for part two. Never gonna live that down LOL
@@InsideOfMyOwnMind LMAO, people were pissed about that one, That's what started the riots LOL
Do you still recommend the TrekPow?
Yup it's my main work jump pack at the moment; no complaints :)
I'd guess that front sensor is a coolant sensor, but single wire for dash gauge, not ECM, it would be elsewhere and either two or three wire(probably two wire) since that engine has separate gauge sensor. trying to recall back to the age range of that dinosaur engine design
fuel injector shorted windings
I agree but that would make hot starts labored and they're not...
amp clamp unavailable at link?
There’s a real reason they’re nicknamed “SkyJunk” in the Australian EWP rental market
MAP sensor over voltage. Edit: Ah, you found it at 32:50. I commented when I "diagnosed" it as the video is playing. Lol
Looks like you're getting a rep as a scissor lift whisperer. With this flakiness I'm going with the dry solder joint(s) in the ECU comment.
Check oil pressure sensor
Spray all pins and check also check relays. Why only 15PSI with an injector that can't be right. OBD1 is very minimal doesn't show but 30-40 codes if that on this machine maybe 20. You may have low voltage again, oil pressure, bad coil after heats up and short internal, go back to basics when stopped.
I haven't seen anything made by zenith in 30 years!
Ivan never met a scissor lift he didn't love. ;)
with no trouble codes stored after engine died.. I'm going with the coil. (et al)
What would I do next? Find the nearest cliff to throw it over! Lol.
You would have to fix it first to drive it to the cliff haha
It was clearly code 12, code 14 and code 33.
Couldn't you just hook up a little Honda generator instead?
That Alternator Belt should of been addressed early on.
What comes first... The chicken or the egg? 😜
battery drained I guess?!
When the fuel pump primes I heard a relay click .. when not, I didn’t ...
check the coil
Heh heh heh!!!
You always get a bad feeling when there's a dozen zip ties holding it together....
This is nearly the same as my '88 Nissan Pulsar NX (videos on my channel)
It's ECM was Pre-OBD1. Engine warm, it had a dashpot, you turned it to "DIAG"
and it had 2 LED, green =1 and red= 10. These codes are in a Haynes '88 Nissan Sentra
manual, and also here-------> www.apexautoaz.com/nissan-obd-i-codes-.html
I drove a 92 Pathfinder with something similar. I've never had to use it because the only problems it had were so simple to solve, even over 300,000 miles on it. One issue was the speedometer cable broke, so we never really knew the miles, but it was up there.
Let me reconnect the ignition coil 🤦♂️
Ivan, you should call Zak Bagans.