Very good diagnostics and repair for the no start problem. When pushing on the gas pedal it even sounded like a plugged cat. It was replaced and so the Sentra is on it's way. That broken intake boot started the whole problem which overheated the cat, followed by melted wires. I'll bet this car ran bad for a long time due to a lack of routine maintenance. Very good one Ivan.
This was a true problem avalanche starting with one problem snowball that got rolling……Not only did you find the bad harness, you found the real cause. Well done.
words cant express how helpful this was. I purchased a 2008 Sentra crank no start for my grandson and thought i would throw a few . sensors at it and go. watched this video first and it was exactly what fixed the car. Very happy grandson thanks you!!! never would have found it
6:33 probably best to de-pin the connectors and use a few layers of heat shrink. then again, it's a pile of pewpie, so "tape it up! tape it up! tape it up! Ooo-Ooo-Oohh! lol sing that to "KISS, lick it up" 🙃
Outstanding work Ivan! I appreciate the preparation before you even leave the shop. I do similar work in the marine field: EFI, joystick piloting (thrust vectoring), autopilot, radar, etc. The excitement of laying your eyes on the the problem after diagnosing is addictive. The guys in the shop usually know I found something significant because I cant help but laugh out loud. Your videos help me refine my diagnostic methods at the marina. One method in this video I want to use is measuring current at different points to find the short. Thank you for the hard work you do in making these videos!
I knew there had to be something else - over 20 min video to fix the melted loom? Great overall diagnostic, Ivan! Seems this car escaped maintenance until it failed - easily repairable issues finally plugged the Cat, which cooked the wiring and started the puzzle - quite a domino effect 🙂 The parts cannon only added cost and complexity / trust issues to the problem - they should have called you before they did all that, but back then, they were not yet out of parts to replace 🙂
One of my observations is your approach to the problem; you were actually right about the fault in the first paragraph (part 1), where most others would go along with the 'parts cannon', which meant a 3 week (if I remember) wait... One critical element is that it is an extremely rare event that 3 sensors 'fail' together, and had that in mind all along... ...so, as you did, look for a fault which was common cause to all of those sensors failing, using a wiring diagram. With the assistance of an oscilloscope, comparing with waveforms issued by the manufacturer, it turned in to a quick diagnosis. Just unfortunate that the original OEM sensors (probably quite ok) were disposed of...
I have to disagree with your "most others" comment, any tech with at least one brain cell would see all those fault codes and start looking for what is common between all those sensors. Replacing sensors instead of diagnosing the fault is what got them in to trouble. Unplug the easiest sensor and check at least for 5v reference and ground would have been next for me. Then you discover a missing 5v reference and start looking for why. Using a test light and amp clamp was clever, I like that and now it is another tool in my arsenal. This is why I like to watch these videos, at 63 years old I am still willing to learn.
@@Stambo59 Yeah, I see. Best put as 'some' others.. An earlier comment was to use the ohm-meter across sensors, comparing with OEM replacements, but the oscilloscope gave the most diagnostic detail...
@@jamesatkinson6480 the scope will certainly show that the sensor is not working but a simple volt meter would be much faster to show the missing 5v. Sometimes getting back to basics is the best way for me, but I learned my craft when the average tech did not have access to scopes and scanners.
I started this video thinking I would ask someone in the comments how to do generic OBD on my new PROS...only to watch you do it right here. thanks again Ivan!. so far a good tool. And yes, a great video. I learn every time.
I remember a few years ago, Eric with South Main Auto made a video entitled, "Test don't Guess." I really don't understand why people just don't take the time it took you to simply diagnose the problem. If I was the owner of that car and I saw this video of the car sitting at the shop for 3 weeks I would NOT use that shop again. I would have never thought that a plugged catalytic convertor would have caused the melting wires. Renault has owned Nissan for years and I just figured the problem as Scotty Kilmer says. Great video!
Very few people want to do any critical thinking. This particular automotive shop obviously did not want to do it. They just wanted to guess and just replace parts not diagnose. Hence, people like Ivan exist. Where would the rest of the world be without people like Ivan? Thanks Ivan. Hopefully you inspire a few of us to start using our brains!
It’s admirable that you include your own mistakes like forgetting to plug in the MAF and that intake tube. You certainly didn’t have to, so it lends to your integrity and credibility. You’re just a good dude, Ivan.
Great diagnosis. Almost bought a nearly new Sentra back in 2017. It was at a main dealer and priced pretty low. It drove great but we could not agree on a price. Glad I didn't. Instead bought a 2016 Elantra. Bought it for less than $11,000, my son now owns and is still going strong with over 100,000 miles.
Job well done on a very erratic Nissan. Your accurate assessment on the cause of said wires melting was right on target. The sound of the exhaust while accelerating was a new experience in the realm of space travel. Nice bit of detective work in narrowing down the list of suspects. The cam and crank relationship is a compulsory part of the prognosis bringing the computer into direct involvement in fault finding. Ignoring an overheated cat 😻 is certainly fraught with problems that seem unpredictable in the beginning.
Clogged cat? Explains the wires melted. Cool! Gonna be expensive! Nice your diag about cat was correct! Great repair! Friends had a EGR issue do similar damage to plastic intake.
This is what happens due to poor maintenance, torn intake boot probably set this series of events in motion, leaned out the fuel mix, clogged the cat, then exhaust leak melted wires. This owner gets the Darwin Award. I hope this taught him/her a lesson, but probably not. Hefty bill, aftermarket sensors are never a good idea. I learned THAT one the hard way, my wallet is still in recovery mode from the parts cannon. Nice fix Ivan, love your logical approach, already had a plan set before you even saw the car.👍
Good find. Nissan has forever had cam/crank sensor and sensor harness issues. The oe sensor fails, heats up the wires and usually shorts out just like this. They offer a cam/crank sensor kit that comes with both sensors, and abt 8" or so of new harnes with connector to be replaced.
We are SO FORTUNATE to have your tutelage. It's as good as any classroom, maybe BETTER as it is real; an investigation of an actual unknown cause. Add in you really contort to yield excellent videos in sometimes incredibly difficult settings. Yeah, you generate RUclips appreciation and certainly you gain future business.... but you DESERVE IT ALL. Provide what's needed and receive rewards. THE BASELINE, BOTTOMLINE FOR ALL TROUBLESHOOTERS IS YOU CAN'T VIOLATE THE LAWS OF PHYSICS!
Well that was different! The fault really was practically at the end of the line lol. Fixed in the end and I am sure everyone involved learnt something new, including us; the viewers.
Great job there; shows the power of radiant heat; that exhaust manifold had to be cherry red when the damage was done; the manifold should have an exterior baffle to block the radiant heat from over heating nearby parts; sometimes mechanics will leave it off; "she'll run just fine without it" :) If missing; easy part from a salvage yard; Enjoy your videos
Thanks, well done, you tracked it down in a logical procedure, but there were multiple other problems, which you also diagnosed. Must be difficult doing an outside call, you have to be self sufficient. The shop owner might have put the battery on charge for you, before you came. Hope you put in a suitable invoice, do not sell your skills short.
excellent diagnosis, repair and master explanation all very well detailed as an elite technician 💪 Your videos are very interesting and those cases too, we learn a lot from you in each video. Blessings and greetings from the Dominican Republic ❤🤝 In a video of yours on your channel you showed a cylinder pressure sensor that you build and sell and I saw it as very interesting. I even told you in that video that I would like the two sensors that sell the complete kit of each 1 and how much would the price be with shipping to the Dominican Republic! thank you 😎
Wow, engine couldn't poop lol. Getting new cat fixed its woes!! At least you got your diagnosis correctly!! Great job Ivan. That engine sounds terrible!! 🔥
1. Intake tube has leak. 2. Leak gets big enough that computer control of mixture is lost and the engine light comes on. 3. Continued driving with misfire and/or lean condition damages CAT. 4. CAT melts down and restricts exhaust. 5. Restricted exhaust overheats the exhaust manifold and melts wires. 6. Car won't start. 7. Customer reports that car ran perfectly and now suddenly won't start. All of this could be avoided by finding out why the engine light came on in the very beginning. Maybe that engine light is no big deal. Maybe it is.
All these comments of "poor maintenance this" and " poor maintenance that". With inflation through the roof, price of gas and its effect on everything, most peoples electric bill is as high (or higher) than their monthly rent. People are now forced, if it will start and run, to drive their cars it until just wont go anymore, maintenance is an afterthought. Great video of sticking with it till it is fixed, though Ivan!
From what I remember about wiring near hot areas is the harness is not supposed to be twisted, the individual wires get a fiberglass insulation and then the harness gets a heat shield. This should work for the lifetime of the vehicle.
I like the use of a low wattage bulb and I do know they don't heat up like a stop bulb or fog/head lamp bulb, but keep it off the carpet it could cause some melting of the fiber of the rug. Better safe than sorry, not that this car was premo in any way. As Jose Silveira said in a sense of poor maintenance cascaded to cause the other ills of the car in time. The old adage pay me now or pay me more later. The mindset of some people. Great job I love the diagnostic procedure perfect.
Reminds me of a ford ranger I had a couple months ago with a 2.5l 4 cylinder. Valve cover oil leak had completely eaten the insulation off the wires going to the cam sensor.
On the road I don't know what wiring repair stock you take with you. To keep the two critical harnesses away from the heat you could make them longer and reroute, but this would require harness making supplies. With limited supplies the only suggestion I would have is to use another larger piece of plastic high temp convoluted tubing to cover your repair. It does provide some further protection, but its main purpose is to provide an indication of high heat. So in a way it is sacrificial. If someone other than yourself is looking at the vehicle you can ask if they see any melting of the outer convoluted tubing. If so you know it is getting hot again .
The old 5 Why analysis, to get to the actual root cause of all those other failures. Great video as always, love these parts cannon fails videos. Also love bashing Dorman, I hate their stuff, always issues.
You'd have loved the completely melted fuel injector wiring harness in a Chrysler T&C I had to deal with. The harness had fallen down and touched the exhaust manifold snd completely melted all the wires together. I wound up cutting out about four inches of the harness and splice all the wires back together. Had to melt them apart to where I had lots of bare copper wires which I cut out the melted section and spliced the wires one at a time until all were fixed. Yeah the harness was still long enough. The car ran great again after that. This manifested itself as a random misfire then after a particularly cold night it became a really really bad multi cylinder misfire.
I have a 2004 Nissan maxima that hasn” been cranking with no start since December last year. Total of 3 mechanics took a look at it and can’t find any issues. Fuel, spark and air looked good. I’m running on my last leg with it. Narrowed it down to being wire related but no luck solving.
I would have been subject to that heat resistant wire loom from the get go. I'm out of cars for a while now, but I haven't seen it installed factory. I could be wrong. I use it at my work with DPF system wiring. Great job as usual.
a good visual inspection at first sign of a possible short, should have caught the meted loom to (transmission was it?) if it got hot enough to melt that which was further away from the metallic flex.... then the wires inside the metallic are likely chooched. OK, I have an unfair advantage at my age and past experience with electrical, electronics and more. but still 😒 although I've missed plenty of things over the years.
You might look into "self amalgamating tape" for this type of repair subject to high temperature. It's non sticky tape that bonds to itself and forms a continuous wrap of silicone rubber in a few minutes. You'd need to get a thin version of it.
Great work very well done ‘ luv your channel ‘ I am a car technician so I know what it’s like doing your job ‘ had a Honda with a shorted 5v reference turned out to be a gearbox speed sensor had shorted because of gearbox bearing had failed and worn into sensor also had no coms with pcm , tcm ‘ keep up the excellent work
cloth type of heat sleeve instead of metal would be better. Had a dodge Caravan last week needed a crank sensor but no OEM available from dealer or suppliers so chose a NTK and seems ok so far and fixed problem. I will say at least they are proud enough they had a NTK logo sticker on sensor most don't even admit who made it once box is gone.
Pardon me for being cynical, but I don't think I'd sink too much more money in a 14 year old Sentra with a CVT, just saying....... In a more serious tone, that was excellent work, Ivan!
What a great video Ivan! Excellent class to me on how to attack a short circuit, I learn a lot Ivan! I like the way you used the current clamp! I need to learn more about that! I bought the DVOM that you use but it does not read me frequency! Maybe I don't have to connect the negative test lead! I've had a lot of short to ground problems in that car usually when the corrugated tubes are damaged due to heat and wires touch sharp edges of the engines but not in the area where you find it! that was awesome! Thanks for sharing brother!
Nice Save,Wonder how many Nissan's ended up in a scrap yard because of this wiring problem, This shows sometimes the problem is literally at the end of the rope, Great Content 👍🇺🇸.
Easiest solution should be either , asbesto wire sleeve or a fiber one , they are better heat deterrent than metal. Metal actually gets to be inside a convection oven .
I would extend all wires and reroute around away from exhaust manifold...its hard to see where it terminates...also could attach wire to heat shield to chassis to act as a heat sink
Nothing like a good basket case fix, I’m betting the torn intake snorkel started the slippery slope to melted wires. I see a lot of those torn but usually accompanied by lean codes.
Is Rainman Ray out of action, or now having more time on his hands for videos??? Maybe Ray can hire himself out to do videos for other automotive channels that want to go on vacation!
Wow! What a project this is turning out to be. The list of repairs needed just keeps growing. It seems that the owner of this car literally ran it straight in to the ground! And you know they would say something like "it ran fine before I brought it to you". SMH.
Nicely cooked wiring, Gas mark 9.5 😀 Pity they didn't use a wire insulation with a much higher melting point near a hot hot engine. Lucky that the crappy non oem sensor finally worked, its still causing problems though.
I once missed a power steering leak in a Nissan because of something similar. The foil protective insulation was zip tied on either side of the pressure hose and held all the leaked fluid in. Obviously the insulation was ineffective at keeping enough heat away.
I guessed exhaust leak in part one causing excessive heat on the wiring...first time this year i was right. Was it bull💩 luck....maybe. Ivan, your knowledge is truly impressive and ya, that car runs like crap. Poor maintenance and/or poor quality.
I like to use fiberglass high temp tape it can handle some serious heat I used it when I worked in kitchen equipment repair would use on electric heating element connections and rubbed wires it doesn’t stick real well but I would wrap it then wrap with electrical tape after it heats it kind of molds to wire
i was thinking blocked cat or some sort of regen got exhaust super-hot poor design and routing of cables this npr got expensive for customer or did shop take hit now time to add the cat ouch thanks for the videos ivan
Hi Ivan could you spent a short time as to how you make your harnesses for testing or buy them also could you have remove the ckp sensor pins remove the plug pull the shield then upon finding the short shrink tube the individual wires etc. very interested in your simple test light procedures it would be could use some thought on how you make your test probes pin size etc. may be a great video with soppy source linkes thank you young man
Great video Ivan! I do have to point out that this was a pretty straight forward diagnosis as far as the no start is concerned. You already had a feeling it was going to be a 5 volt reference issue from the codes and looking at a wiring diagram. The fact that in 2022 some shops cannot diagnose a simple short amazes me. This same issue could have happened on a 30 year old vehicle. No matter how old you are vehicles have had electronics for the majority of everyone's career at this point.
im no expert by any stretch but what i understand is a shorted 5v is most probably from one stretch of wire that results in multiple wires reading zero volts because the voltage is shared, amp clamp will pinpoint were current is getting drawn thts were the shot is
You ever think, damn im a good mechanic? You should. You are helpful to other mechanics thought processes
He's like a Car God to me😅😅..he must repair the issue no matter how bad it looks..pure genius
Very good diagnostics and repair for the no start problem. When pushing on the gas pedal it even sounded like a plugged cat. It was replaced and so the Sentra is on it's way. That broken intake boot started the whole problem which overheated the cat, followed by melted wires. I'll bet this car ran bad for a long time due to a lack of routine maintenance.
Very good one Ivan.
I can't believe that it even ran with the torn intake at all!
That's where the PCM comes in with "substituted data or compensation" to try to keep the engine running.
@@mikechiodetti4482 amazing! Are you a Nissan engineer by any chance?
@@scientist100 all ecm’s can do this actually, at least to a point…
Wild. Cat was clogged so they floored it till she had a melt down. Classic
Yup lol
It must be a PITA to work with one hand while trying to film. Thanks Ivan we appreciate what you do.
Cooked cat with all the trimmings 😅🤣😂
This was a true problem avalanche starting with one problem snowball that got rolling……Not only did you find the bad harness, you found the real cause. Well done.
words cant express how helpful this was. I purchased a 2008 Sentra crank no start for my grandson and thought i would throw a few . sensors at it and go. watched this video first and it was exactly what fixed the car. Very happy grandson thanks you!!! never would have found it
@@wadebarnett2927 nice work! 😊👍
Wow, multiple issues to deal with. Verrry patient diagnosis comes through in end. Another nice job Ivan.
No way I could do all that diagnostic stuff..it makes my brain hurt just watching Ivan sort this all out ..another great job Ivan.Thanks
6:33 probably best to de-pin the connectors and use a few layers of heat shrink. then again, it's a pile of pewpie, so "tape it up! tape it up! tape it up! Ooo-Ooo-Oohh! lol
sing that to "KISS, lick it up" 🙃
Outstanding work Ivan! I appreciate the preparation before you even leave the shop. I do similar work in the marine field: EFI, joystick piloting (thrust vectoring), autopilot, radar, etc. The excitement of laying your eyes on the the problem after diagnosing is addictive. The guys in the shop usually know I found something significant because I cant help but laugh out loud.
Your videos help me refine my diagnostic methods at the marina. One method in this video I want to use is measuring current at different points to find the short.
Thank you for the hard work you do in making these videos!
Another problem car Ivanated! Thank you for the many lessons you teach.
It all makes sense now, well done! 👍😀
Very interesting chain of events with a bunch of variables - plus the parts cannon factor. Nice job Ivan!
I knew there had to be something else - over 20 min video to fix the melted loom? Great overall diagnostic, Ivan! Seems this car escaped maintenance until it failed - easily repairable issues finally plugged the Cat, which cooked the wiring and started the puzzle - quite a domino effect 🙂
The parts cannon only added cost and complexity / trust issues to the problem - they should have called you before they did all that, but back then, they were not yet out of parts to replace 🙂
This was a great one in the sense that the fault was actually a symptom of the actual fault. Nicely done!
One of my observations is your approach to the problem; you were actually right about the fault in the first paragraph (part 1), where most others would go along with the 'parts cannon', which meant a 3 week (if I remember) wait... One critical element is that it is an extremely rare event that 3 sensors 'fail' together, and had that in mind all along... ...so, as you did, look for a fault which was common cause to all of those sensors failing, using a wiring diagram. With the assistance of an oscilloscope, comparing with waveforms issued by the manufacturer, it turned in to a quick diagnosis. Just unfortunate that the original OEM sensors (probably quite ok) were disposed of...
I have to disagree with your "most others" comment, any tech with at least one brain cell would see all those fault codes and start looking for what is common between all those sensors.
Replacing sensors instead of diagnosing the fault is what got them in to trouble.
Unplug the easiest sensor and check at least for 5v reference and ground would have been next for me.
Then you discover a missing 5v reference and start looking for why.
Using a test light and amp clamp was clever, I like that and now it is another tool in my arsenal.
This is why I like to watch these videos, at 63 years old I am still willing to learn.
@@Stambo59 Yeah, I see. Best put as 'some' others.. An earlier comment was to use the ohm-meter across sensors, comparing with OEM replacements, but the oscilloscope gave the most diagnostic detail...
@@jamesatkinson6480 the scope will certainly show that the sensor is not working but a simple volt meter would be much faster to show the missing 5v.
Sometimes getting back to basics is the best way for me, but I learned my craft when the average tech did not have access to scopes and scanners.
Obviously, the customer never mentioned the car running poorly for awhile. They just noticed something wrong when it finally threw in the towel. 😂
Spot on Ivan. Plugged cat cause exhaust leak right at the wiring harness.
thank you very much for taking the time.
I like the advice about OEM electrical parts... Buy the best you can afford and cry once.
Nice diagnostic and detective work there.
Automotive constipation. Well stated! Your last few sentences told the complete story.
I started this video thinking I would ask someone in the comments how to do generic OBD on my new PROS...only to watch you do it right here. thanks again Ivan!. so far a good tool. And yes, a great video. I learn every time.
I remember a few years ago, Eric with South Main Auto made a video entitled, "Test don't Guess." I really don't understand why people just don't take the time it took you to simply diagnose the problem. If I was the owner of that car and I saw this video of the car sitting at the shop for 3 weeks I would NOT use that shop again. I would have never thought that a plugged catalytic convertor would have caused the melting wires. Renault has owned Nissan for years and I just figured the problem as Scotty Kilmer says. Great video!
Very few people want to do any critical thinking. This particular automotive shop obviously did not want to do it. They just wanted to guess and just replace parts not diagnose. Hence, people like Ivan exist. Where would the rest of the world be without people like Ivan? Thanks Ivan. Hopefully you inspire a few of us to start using our brains!
Right on Spot..
Fun case Study..
And thorough Diag..
🤞🏻
IVAN, thanks for taking us on this diagnoses journey AWESOME approach and logic thinking. cheeeeers
Always a pleasure watching you work! 😊
Coming to Los Angeles anytime sooooon ???
If you do, I’ll be the camera man while you do your magic
It’s admirable that you include your own mistakes like forgetting to plug in the MAF and that intake tube. You certainly didn’t have to, so it lends to your integrity and credibility. You’re just a good dude, Ivan.
Hah got a bit rushed there at the end... Didn't expect an avalanche of problems 😂
Great diagnosis. Almost bought a nearly new Sentra back in 2017. It was at a main dealer and priced pretty low. It drove great but we could not agree on a price. Glad I didn't. Instead bought a 2016 Elantra. Bought it for less than $11,000, my son now owns and is still going strong with over 100,000 miles.
Excellent diagnosis and secondary symptom diagnosis. It's a mystery that they didn't know the cat was plugged, unless everything happened at once.
Job well done on a very erratic Nissan. Your accurate assessment on the cause of said wires melting was right on target. The sound of the exhaust while accelerating was a new experience in the realm of space travel. Nice bit of detective work in narrowing down the list of suspects. The cam and crank relationship is a compulsory part of the prognosis bringing the computer into direct involvement in fault finding. Ignoring an overheated cat 😻 is certainly fraught with problems that seem unpredictable in the beginning.
Clogged cat? Explains the wires melted. Cool! Gonna be expensive! Nice your diag about cat was correct! Great repair! Friends had a EGR issue do similar damage to plastic intake.
This is what happens due to poor maintenance, torn intake boot probably set this series of events in motion, leaned out the fuel mix, clogged the cat, then exhaust leak melted wires. This owner gets the Darwin Award. I hope this taught him/her a lesson, but probably not. Hefty bill, aftermarket sensors are never a good idea. I learned THAT one the hard way, my wallet is still in recovery mode from the parts cannon. Nice fix Ivan, love your logical approach, already had a plan set before you even saw the car.👍
It’s interesting after a little investigative diagnostics it will tell you a story on the car. I’ve had a few of those . Good job on the fix.
Thanks Ivan for the step by step of working through an electrical issue. Very informative. Thanks for sharing !!
good diag and fix, there, @20:11 I see the air bag light blinking. there is a way to reset that with just the key to the car.
Awesome as usual!...I really enjoy your videos Ivan...please don't stop!👍👍😎
Good find. Nissan has forever had cam/crank sensor and sensor harness issues. The oe sensor fails, heats up the wires and usually shorts out just like this. They offer a cam/crank sensor kit that comes with both sensors, and abt 8" or so of new harnes with connector to be replaced.
We are SO FORTUNATE to have your tutelage. It's as good as any classroom, maybe BETTER as it is real; an investigation of an actual unknown cause. Add in you really contort to yield excellent videos in sometimes incredibly difficult settings. Yeah, you generate RUclips appreciation and certainly you gain future business.... but you DESERVE IT ALL. Provide what's needed and receive rewards.
THE BASELINE, BOTTOMLINE FOR ALL TROUBLESHOOTERS IS YOU CAN'T VIOLATE THE LAWS OF PHYSICS!
great your videos! listening to the sound of the exhaust I think it is restricted and that is why the ckp and vss harnesses overheated
Well that was different! The fault really was practically at the end of the line lol. Fixed in the end and I am sure everyone involved learnt something new, including us; the viewers.
Thank you for telling us; great information.
Great Job Ivan! Hell of a find!
0:01 Love this channel. Right...back to the video ;) Big love from Australia.
Great job there; shows the power of radiant heat; that exhaust manifold had to be cherry red when the damage was done; the manifold should have an exterior baffle to block the radiant heat from over heating nearby parts; sometimes mechanics will leave it off; "she'll run just fine without it" :) If missing; easy part from a salvage yard; Enjoy your videos
Absolutely fascinating video good job there buddy.
Thanks, well done, you tracked it down in a logical procedure, but there were multiple other problems, which you also diagnosed.
Must be difficult doing an outside call, you have to be self sufficient.
The shop owner might have put the battery on charge for you, before you came. Hope you put in a suitable invoice, do not sell your skills short.
excellent diagnosis, repair and master explanation all very well detailed as an elite technician 💪 Your videos are very interesting and those cases too, we learn a lot from you in each video. Blessings and greetings from the Dominican Republic ❤🤝 In a video of yours on your channel you showed a cylinder pressure sensor that you build and sell and I saw it as very interesting. I even told you in that video that I would like the two sensors that sell the complete kit of each 1 and how much would the price be with shipping to the Dominican Republic! thank you 😎
Thanks for the video, great work solving that one.
Wow, engine couldn't poop lol. Getting new cat fixed its woes!! At least you got your diagnosis correctly!! Great job Ivan. That engine sounds terrible!! 🔥
1. Intake tube has leak. 2. Leak gets big enough that computer control of mixture is lost and the engine light comes on. 3. Continued driving with misfire and/or lean condition damages CAT. 4. CAT melts down and restricts exhaust. 5. Restricted exhaust overheats the exhaust manifold and melts wires. 6. Car won't start. 7. Customer reports that car ran perfectly and now suddenly won't start.
All of this could be avoided by finding out why the engine light came on in the very beginning. Maybe that engine light is no big deal. Maybe it is.
Yup that's about right :)
Great job Ivan, you got this!!!
Just when I thought I was "done"...nope lol!
Bravo Ivan!!!
All these comments of "poor maintenance this" and " poor maintenance that". With inflation through the roof, price of gas and its effect on everything, most peoples electric bill is as high (or higher) than their monthly rent. People are now forced, if it will start and run, to drive their cars it until just wont go anymore, maintenance is an afterthought. Great video of sticking with it till it is fixed, though Ivan!
Preventative maintenance is A LOT CHEAPER than breaking your car and then having to walk lmao
Nothing like well made poorly maintained vehicles that nobody cares about until they won't start to hone your diagnostic skills. Good stuff Ivan.
You definitely forgot to make that happy cry, whuhuu
From what I remember about wiring near hot areas is the harness is not supposed to be twisted, the individual wires get a fiberglass insulation and then the harness gets a heat shield. This should work for the lifetime of the vehicle.
twisted pairs are often done for impedance and noise shielding.
I like the use of a low wattage bulb and I do know they don't heat up like a stop bulb or fog/head lamp bulb, but keep it off the carpet it could cause some melting of the fiber of the rug. Better safe than sorry, not that this car was premo in any way. As Jose Silveira said in a sense of poor maintenance cascaded to cause the other ills of the car in time. The old adage pay me now or pay me more later. The mindset of some people. Great job I love the diagnostic procedure perfect.
It all came full circle in the end. Crazy!
Reminds me of a ford ranger I had a couple months ago with a 2.5l 4 cylinder. Valve cover oil leak had completely eaten the insulation off the wires going to the cam sensor.
Great diagnostic my friend.
On the road I don't know what wiring repair stock you take with you. To keep the two critical harnesses away from the heat you could make them longer and reroute, but this would require harness making supplies. With limited supplies the only suggestion I would have is to use another larger piece of plastic high temp convoluted tubing to cover your repair. It does provide some further protection, but its main purpose is to provide an indication of high heat. So in a way it is sacrificial. If someone other than yourself is looking at the vehicle you can ask if they see any melting of the outer convoluted tubing. If so you know it is getting hot again .
The old 5 Why analysis, to get to the actual root cause of all those other failures. Great video as always, love these parts cannon fails videos. Also love bashing Dorman, I hate their stuff, always issues.
You'd have loved the completely melted fuel injector wiring harness in a Chrysler T&C I had to deal with. The harness had fallen down and touched the exhaust manifold snd completely melted all the wires together. I wound up cutting out about four inches of the harness and splice all the wires back together. Had to melt them apart to where I had lots of bare copper wires which I cut out the melted section and spliced the wires one at a time until all were fixed. Yeah the harness was still long enough. The car ran great again after that.
This manifested itself as a random misfire then after a particularly cold night it became a really really bad multi cylinder misfire.
I have a 2004 Nissan maxima that hasn” been cranking with no start since December last year. Total of 3 mechanics took a look at it and can’t find any issues. Fuel, spark and air looked good. I’m running on my last leg with it. Narrowed it down to being wire related but no luck solving.
tech ivan=oem parts only 100% job done
I would have been subject to that heat resistant wire loom from the get go. I'm out of cars for a while now, but I haven't seen it installed factory. I could be wrong. I use it at my work with DPF system wiring. Great job as usual.
a good visual inspection at first sign of a possible short, should have caught the meted loom to (transmission was it?) if it got hot enough to melt that which was further away from the metallic flex.... then the wires inside the metallic are likely chooched.
OK, I have an unfair advantage at my age and past experience with electrical, electronics and more. but still 😒 although I've missed plenty of things over the years.
You might look into "self amalgamating tape" for this type of repair subject to high temperature.
It's non sticky tape that bonds to itself and forms a continuous wrap of silicone rubber in a few minutes. You'd need to get a thin version of it.
🤣😂 " Honey, there goes Ivan passing by again in his custom exhaust Sentra"
Great work very well done ‘ luv your channel ‘ I am a car technician so I know what it’s like doing your job ‘ had a Honda with a shorted 5v reference turned out to be a gearbox speed sensor had shorted because of gearbox bearing had failed and worn into sensor also had no coms with pcm , tcm ‘ keep up the excellent work
some people like to drive around with the money lite on and the domino effect goes down the line. like taking out the CAT!
Well done.
I like the process of using the amp clamp as apposed to piercing probes. Could you have de-pinned the connectors and used shrink tubing on the wires?
cloth type of heat sleeve instead of metal would be better. Had a dodge Caravan last week needed a crank sensor but no OEM available from dealer or suppliers so chose a NTK and seems ok so far and fixed problem. I will say at least they are proud enough they had a NTK logo sticker on sensor most don't even admit who made it once box is gone.
Enter high temperature wire sheathing has options that are not metal conduit. Fiberglass or silicon probably insulate from heat better than metal.
Pardon me for being cynical, but I don't think I'd sink too much more money in a 14 year old Sentra with a CVT, just saying.......
In a more serious tone, that was excellent work, Ivan!
In my area we have trans shops that "aquire" a large number of cars because people could not pay the final repair bill.
Another brilliant video
"Stay away from the parts cannon"???! Why? We wouldn't have any PHAD diagnostics to enjoy! 😆😉
What a great video Ivan! Excellent class to me on how to attack a short circuit, I learn a lot Ivan! I like the way you used the current clamp! I need to learn more about that! I bought the DVOM that you use but it does not read me frequency! Maybe I don't have to connect the negative test lead! I've had a lot of short to ground problems in that car usually when the corrugated tubes are damaged due to heat and wires touch sharp edges of the engines but not in the area where you find it! that was awesome! Thanks for sharing brother!
Thank you!
Great job . Always remember you can't polish a turd.
Nice Save,Wonder how many Nissan's ended up in a scrap yard because of this wiring problem, This shows sometimes the problem is literally at the end of the rope, Great Content 👍🇺🇸.
most common car at the bone yard they all need transmisions
@@juanrodriguez-ry6yt I have heard that, Any manual transmissions in those years, I like selecting my own Gears.
Easiest solution should be either , asbesto wire sleeve or a fiber one , they are better heat deterrent than metal. Metal actually gets to be inside a convection oven .
Yeah, my thoughts too. That metal sheath is a heat magnet.
Original setup was doing fine until the exhaust got too hot due to the cat being blocked.
Great job!! thank you for the awsome content!!
Aaaah. I see why you ended pt 1 where you did. Lots more to the story. Thanks for the great videos.
I would extend all wires and reroute around away from exhaust manifold...its hard to see where it terminates...also could attach wire to heat shield to chassis to act as a heat sink
Nothing like a good basket case fix, I’m betting the torn intake snorkel started the slippery slope to melted wires. I see a lot of those torn but usually accompanied by lean codes.
Again great job 👍
Ivan. You can purchase cables that go up to 700 deg C that are used in ovens.
You need to work harder because RAINMAN RAY is out of action.
Is Rainman Ray out of action, or now having more time on his hands for videos??? Maybe Ray can hire himself out to do videos for other automotive channels that want to go on vacation!
The suspense when you were cutting the shild was killing me.
Wow! What a project this is turning out to be. The list of repairs needed just keeps growing. It seems that the owner of this car literally ran it straight in to the ground! And you know they would say something like "it ran fine before I brought it to you". SMH.
Awesome video as always 👍
Nicely cooked wiring, Gas mark 9.5 😀
Pity they didn't use a wire insulation with a much higher melting point near a hot hot engine.
Lucky that the crappy non oem sensor finally worked, its still causing problems though.
I once missed a power steering leak in a Nissan because of something similar. The foil protective insulation was zip tied on either side of the pressure hose and held all the leaked fluid in. Obviously the insulation was ineffective at keeping enough heat away.
I guessed exhaust leak in part one causing excessive heat on the wiring...first time this year i was right. Was it bull💩 luck....maybe. Ivan, your knowledge is truly impressive and ya, that car runs like crap. Poor maintenance and/or poor quality.
I like to use fiberglass high temp tape it can handle some serious heat I used it when I worked in kitchen equipment repair would use on electric heating element connections and rubbed wires it doesn’t stick real well but I would wrap it then wrap with electrical tape after it heats it kind of molds to wire
i was thinking blocked cat or some sort of regen got exhaust super-hot poor design and routing of cables this npr got expensive for customer or did shop take hit now time to add the cat ouch thanks for the videos ivan
Yep seen this before on basically the same year Nissan Sentra.
Hi Ivan could you spent a short time as to how you make your harnesses for testing or buy them also could you have remove the ckp sensor pins remove the plug pull the shield then upon finding the short shrink tube the individual wires etc. very interested in your simple test light procedures it would be could use some thought on how you make your test probes pin size etc. may be a great video with soppy source linkes thank you young man
Great video Ivan! I do have to point out that this was a pretty straight forward diagnosis as far as the no start is concerned. You already had a feeling it was going to be a 5 volt reference issue from the codes and looking at a wiring diagram. The fact that in 2022 some shops cannot diagnose a simple short amazes me. This same issue could have happened on a 30 year old vehicle. No matter how old you are vehicles have had electronics for the majority of everyone's career at this point.
Wasn't really a "simple short" ;)
Some shops still cannot figure out if a battery is good or bad; and those have been around for a while.
you would have hoped for a code related to fuel trims prior to the meltdown
Great video Ivan, can you explain the basic theory of using the amp clamp to locate the short?
im no expert by any stretch but what i understand is a shorted 5v is most probably from one stretch of wire that results in multiple wires reading zero volts because the voltage is shared, amp clamp will pinpoint were current is getting drawn thts were the shot is