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A terrible Blower Door score till we figured out the problem!
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- Опубликовано: 17 авг 2024
- Zip System 2.0 - • Zip System 2.0
Smoke Pen we used: amzn.to/2Se6Ilu
In this video my Builder buddy Doug Cameron is solving a Building Science mystery. He built this new house using his Zip System 2.0 method which should yield a VERY air tight house, but his blower door score is not what he expected. In this video you'll see what we did to find the problem and what was the source of the extreme leakiness. Thanks for watching The Build Show!
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I like that you guys took the time to present a situation where things didn't go according to plan. Too much of YT is "look how perfect and smart I am, isn't everything easy" when, in fact, life is imperfect.
Air sealing and blower door tests are under appreciated building techniques.
Love the DIY blower door diagnostic idea. Blower door test equipment is expensive to purchase and maintain. An auditor can come in, provide before and after data, while the homeowner can take their time in sealing the envelope using the diagnostic method shown in your video. Hats off to you Matt. As an HVAC contractor, I wish more builders followed your path! You probably don't deal with many older homes at this point, but I'm sure you've had plenty of past experience, learning where many "good enough" methods went terribly wrong. As another commenter mentioned, getting existing homeowners to understand the importance of blower door testing is an uphill battle for sure.
Casements, awnings anything that sucks tight is the way to go if you want an airtight house. Single hung, double hung, sliders those things are impossible to seal. I used to test windows and there are two factors to consider when looking for high performance windows. Whether or not there's mechanical advantage that compresses the seal and quality control from the factory.
Yes, bulb seals, compression seals are best for sure( xasements, awnings, etc. Like you said) . He mentioned 'sliders' and we all know they leak badly.
Another great video.
When we as an industry talk about air sealing I think there needs to all least be a mention of proper ventilation in the conversation. I know you're a proponent of ERVs as am I. As a great educator I hope you can mention ventilation along with air sealing so we're not building zip lock bags for homes.
I currently see more focus of builders and code enforcement and even designers on tight homes and less concern for or knowledge of ventilation.
Thanks for the great videos!
Matt your videos and the way you build up other builders in them is so wonderful. I wish we had that same attitude here. Not to belly ache but I just had a large project yanked out from under me for simply a cheaper product. This was a really good buffer in this rutt I've gotten in. Thanks again for all your help.
I built my own house in 2008. It has 5600 square feet of floor area.
My ACH50 was 1.6 which is quite close to the result they got on this house. No Zip sheathing, no spray foam, no expensive windows.
I tried to seal the penetrations as much as I could before the insulation was installed with spray foam and caulk. Cellulose was blown into the stud bays and the attic. I used the airtight drywall approach. Vinyl windows (Survivor brand, now defunct- they are nothing special, just a decent vinyl window), Andersen sliding doors (2), Masonite hinged doors (2). Nothing special was done on my house that anyone with a little bit of construction experience could not do themselves.
I'm really pleased with the results.
So you achieved 1.6 ACH50 without expensive windows, no zip sheathing and no spray foam. Just sealed the penetrations with spray foam.
I built my 2 story shop the same way and achieved 1.8 ACH...not that it makes much difference since I have a 10' x 12' garage door that I open all the time. I caulked all the stud bay joints properly (yes it took forever) before insulating with Rockwool. I also used blown in cellulose for the ceiling. You're right it's not that difficult if you just think about things a little bit.
People tend to get caught up in the hype over all these expensive products and forget that the main reason they exist is to make the manufacturers money. It's possible to build without them and achieve similar results.
JPB in VA - What do you define as the "airtight drywall approach"?
@@wjthehomebuilder It should be self explanatory...air inside the home doesn't leak out passed the drywall.
@@OU81TWO Thanks! It wasn't! Can you explain how? Are you just caulking the sheetrock to the bottom plates?
Great video. The first project we did trying to meet passive house air tightness we found that the windows were the leakiest part of the home. Better windows is super important. Keep up the great work!
Thanks Kyle!
The audio quality of this video suggests the house is well built. When you're inside, you are really inside.
You often learn more from your failures than your successes.
It is nice to see a company willing to spending the time and resulting money, to do a build this tight. I have worked for far to many companies that are just not willing to push the envelope in the envelope tech.
I wouldn't own a house that tight. The reliance on hvac to provide air quality in homes full of slow-release chemicals (formaldehyde etc) seems penny wise pound foolish
@@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb Just leave your windows open.
@@ericspda Defeats the purpose? lol
@@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb It has operable doors and windows. It's nice to be able to close your house down and know that it's actually sealed. I agree that some of the passivhaus projects with fixed windows are too reliant on HVAC, but doesn't look like that's the case here.
F raming
I was almost positive on that Zip 2.0 video there was a claim of a 0.7 blower door score, so I went back an watched it again, BUT I was relieved to discover that on the Zip 2.0 video, Doug was referring to some other houses, and experience in the past! (that house wasn't even ready for a blower door). Relieved! Thought I discovered an inconsistency! Great videos..
@ Mat Risinger. I saw you were in my country (Switzerland) visiting some of our companies. If your interested in not using spray foam insulation for attics or walls in general you can have a look at www.isofloc.com. This innovative system allows you to blow in insulation, be it a wood fiber material or even just newspapers (isofloc LM). We did several building with this and it is really great! Actually you build everything up, you can use OSB or plywood or whatever you like to use to close the attic or walls and all you have to do is to have one small opening where they can blow in the material! It gets pushed in really good and insulates everything perfectly. Maybe Doug finds this also interesting.
I moved here to what was supposed to be my retirement home in 2016. Home was built in 2006. Having lots of HVAC issues, mainly infiltration and poor duct design. Master bedroom is constantly 5 degrees colder than the living area. Master bath with 3 exterior walls runs 10 degrees colder. Thanks to this video I now have some ideas on where to start. I need to look into getting a test like this done.
Taking a shower at 55-60 degrees is NOT fun!
Good info, I have a professor for wood design who says buildings only last 20-40yrs. I think his mentality is whats caused so many problems for our generation and younger(im30). I have issues with poor craftsmanship. I make furniture and that's how I want to make houses. Quality and efficient building systems are what I'm looking for. Like diamond piers or they're foundation frame system.
Contour crafting is what I'm working on a feasibility plan for.
I'd love to hear any thoughts about it. (3D printing buildings out of a type of concrete mixture)
Been in the window industry for 15 years 6 years of which is manufacturing. When in manufacturing I got involved in testing windows and doors for air and water infiltration. We would test the windows and doors with what would be an equivalent of a 50 mph wind. AAMA standards would dictate that a window that uses a non compression gasket so we are talking about double hungs and sliders had to meet a minimum of .3 cfm per square foot of window of air infiltration. Compression gasket windows like non sliding doors and casement windows were at .1 cfm per square foot. This certification was in lab conditions which means in the field it was allowed to test at 1.5x the lab minimum. In testing our Double Hung windows were typically in the .15 cfm/sqft while the sliders were the poor performers due to the large tanks required for water infiltration. Often sliders only just made it close to the bare minimum at .27cfm/sqft. Casements and tilt and turns are what you should be looking for as our units frequently tested at .06cfm/sqft. The multi point locks help to create a tight seal and outswinging casements will press tighter on the gaskets when the house is depressurised. The houses you build have huge windows and those square feet add up so these test reports are important to look at.
That Doug - Shawn stare down at 3:28 is intense. Doug must have really disliked his blower door results 😂
I'd really like to see what he was talking about with sealing an attic without spray foam. I thought you said that he used blown-in insulation after he seals the entire thing but not sure what that would look like in between the roof joists etc?
James Calbert me too
As he says at 7:36 "seal everything from the outside." Spray foam does two things. It air seals but it also insulates. Normally what you're doing on the outside is water sealing only. Matt is also pointing out the insulation part of that with fiberglass. The fact that its blow-in instead of batt is a bit incidental except that they use fiber sheets to hold up the fiberglass. I could speculate the continuous sheet provides a better seal than batts do. Then again if people tapped their batt flaps they'd probably work to. Blow in is better from a speed and consistency standpoint.
@@Furiends sorry, can't picture what you're saying either. When Doug refers to a "sealed envelope, known as a conditioned attic" he discusses sealing the outside but Matt then adds about using blown-in insulation for the interior. When I think of that my experience has only been with mounds of fluffy pink stuff in an unsealed, unconditioned attic.
@@jamescalbert4958 He is talking about air sealing the exterior of the roof as he did the walls. Typically, roofs are waterproofed, but not airsealed. Spray-foam is what most builders accomplish the airsealing and insulation. He airsealed with caulk and liquid flashing on the exterior, and insulated with blown in fiberglass.
@@gracilism Yea, I heard the part about Doug sealing the outside and watched the vid that Matt did where he sealed AND insulated the outside of a house (which I REALLY dig) I just don't know what the "blown in insulation" would look like if he's planning on using the attic. Perhaps he doesn't intend on using the attic and it's just like any other attic with blown in insulation and I'm reading too much into it. Wouldn't be the first time! 😒 😄
Such smart professionals! Thanks for bringing them to us and opening our minds, Matt.
ON THE BUILD SHOW!!! Great video! I am doing ZIP system, Doug gave me some good advice, I am excited to see what my blower door will be.
Definitely some sort of hard feelings between Doug and Shawn.
There is a Performance standard in window and doors. This tests the water and air penetration so go with the highest PG available.
I like how you troubleshooted the test to find out what the issues where. When you achieve the .6 exchange, do you then use heat air exchangers to get clean air in the home?
That clipstone product is now being sold at menards. No more ordering in bulk. Thanks for showing that demo Matt.
How does applying house wrap (like Vycor self adherent film) compare verses applying sealant over nails and seams?
I’d have to believe that rolling out a peel and stick is more labor efficient than muddling seams and nail holes. Another plus is the increase in moisture resistance.
Gunga Dinn I’d love to see follow up on this this comment.
Probably materials
I think that is the big debate: material & labor cost vs energy savings return.
Colin Spradlin And the time it takes to get that return. Ideally within the mortgage term seems right. Or possibly in the time you plan to live there.
Most STPE fluid-applied WBR membranes are two part (joint & seams first using a denser caulking/sausage application, followed by a thinner viscosity rolled or sprayed membrane). This method eliminates step 2 by utilizing the pre-adhered WRB on the ZIP panel in lieu of more the STPE. Trust me, while still not cheap, it’s less expensive this way.
Great info! Thanks fellas!!!
The cfm rating is very important also. Even more so sometimes. Picture windows are best sealing. Single hung, next . double hung last. Numbers of dual Mylar fin seals with felt or nylon fur on each sash is also paramount. I'm sure you know this, though.
warranty. Buddy put this type of sheeting on his house he said and this was just with the tapes his energy bill was more the cut in 1/2 his hvac system didn't work as hard anymore.
I made the suggestion to calk all the nail holes becuse even though you try you will still drive a screw too deep its bound to happen so a liquid tape is better in my book becuse it seals everything no water is getting into the panels.
Does this house have exhaust fans? If so, how do you stop airflow when the fans aren’t on? I have a building with three bathroom exhaust fans and a kitchen fan. Wouldn’t they leak more than any door or window?
Jorel, these help.
www.tamtech.com/cape-backdraft-dampers
Unlike a mechanical damper, I don't think they provide much resistance when in the "open" position.
Presumably the attic has rigid board insulation in the rafter bays as well (with an air pocket for the soffits)? What happens when the roof deck leaks?
With mine and the way it was done, you'll have a wet wall. I had a tree branch crash onto the roof punching a hole clean through the deck (looked like a hail strike). The rigid board ferried the water to the outside wall where the installers stopped at and water dripped onto the wall plates and soaked part of the ceiling as well as the interior drywall and outside sheathing. In addition to that, it happened right above the kitchen window. With both the window and storm window, it looked like I had a little aquarium going.
I hope you'll share more about the roof/ceiling assembly. Is he using rigid board above the deck? Per 2015 IRC R806.5.5 I don't know how you get away without either rigid board or spray foam and still meet code. If he's just using batts, wouldn't that put the dew point in the batts and be a potential for mold and moisture build-up?
I agree. More detail of the roof assembly is required because it would appear vapor would migrate to the underside of the roof deck and condense. Maybe this is a detail that can only be used in this particular climate?
Joe Lstiburek is simply too difficult to understand. I'm glad you explain his theories Thanks for translating Mr. Lstiburek's research.
With the labor and cost of an air tight house are the savings with the a/c or heat there.
How do you do the blower door before drywall? Doesn’t it leak through the roof? Or do you drywall and insulate the ceilings first then do the test?
Maybe I missed something, but if the bottom of the window is not sealed, as you suggest, would that not leak air?
This is awesome stuff. What are the added cost compared to minimum code?
Looks like Doug and Sean were about to Go at it.
Doug rocks.
Great video as always.
I like the idea of building tight as long as I get enough air movement to keep the air quality in the house up without having to install a ventilator for the house. Central air with air exchange would address this, but you don't always want to run a system in moderate weather.
Those ideas don't mix. Either it is air tight and you add ventilation. Or you don't care and even then you should probably open a few windows at least once a day to get fresh air in.
A thought that just occurred to me is; what is the area of the windows relative to sq ft of the home? My thought was, if one had less windows in the home, the ACH results should improve if all else stayed the same.
How do we know how many Btus a furnace should be for a home without using a load calculation?
Are more expensive windows better? Or other brands? How might one determine that the windows might be super leaky?
Depends on what you consider better. You can get high performance windows that look plain, but are expensive. You can get beautiful windows that perform OK, but are expensive. You can get both, but they cost as much as your house (bit hyperbolic, but you can spend as much as you want on windows). You're not getting high performance windows for cheap.
When your buying windows/doors make sure you look at the performance data for each one. In this instance you would want pay attention to the air infiltration rating. Higher cost doesn’t always mean you are getting a better performing window, but generally speaking higher performance = more expensive. Before you make a purchase do about 30 mins of reading on the ratings and how they work and it’ll really help you make a decision.
Good lesson.
Do you cover bathroom exhaust registers for a test like this?
I know in my home, every time I open or close the bathroom door, the cat door swings from the air pressure. The other rooms are tight enough this doesn't happen, but the bathroom door is like a giant diaphragm here.
Matt I really like what you are doing with the construction and building industry. I like listening to what you are saying but the music and audio really impact the message you are trying to get across. Recently there has been a bit of a downturn. Thanks for all the information you are putting out there!
Chris, Sorry to hear that. I occasionally shoot my videos myself without my camera crew and this was one of those videos. Hang with me. My video Friday is top notch on audio and video. Thanks for watching the Build Show! Matt
Matt Risinger, I just had a blower door test on a house I am about to renovate. We scored a 14.3 ACH/50...
Any suggestions? New windows and doors for sure, but what else?
No I’m not Matt but I’d love to respond lol.
That score is definitely high and normal if we think about it. What that says is you need to find where those leaks are coming from and see if some major Reno-I’m talking down to the studs is needed.
If you’re going to change the siding, this is a good time to do so as you can then look into windows if needed.
As far as interior sealing, there are products like DAP’s AirStop, which is a fluid-applied like substance you can even use a spray gun with that can address between the studs and sheathing and maybe bottom plates and sills for stopping air leaks.
Anyway those are my thoughts. Matt has provided a lot of info through the channel and resources to help think through what’s the most cost-effective approach for your project.
I hope all is well and kudos to your reno.
Is there a pull down attic ladder to an unconditioned attic? If so, building an airtight box (with hinged door) up into your attic space will cut down a lot on leakage.
what are your thougths on using the aerobarrier system to fill and seal in all those cracks that weren't sealed on the first round through?
Look out for a “Building Science Podcast “ on the subject this December! Jordan Lane-Miller
@@DesignBuildDoug Awesome! I'm building a home in Colorado and I'm really impressed and intrigued by your zip R method and potentially the aerobarrier as well. Love your honesty and dedication to your craft. Keep it up!!!
What is the accepted air-change-per-hour number you wouldn't want to go below so carbon dioxide levels don't stand a chance of getting dangerously high in case, say, a family of 5 with pets gets stuck indoors during a snow storm?
An ERV is critical to maintaining the air quality of these tight buildings.
@@paulcopeland9035 Ah thanks. I see he has a video on that too.
Crack open a window and let some fresh air in. Yes, even in a snow storm.
@@OU81TWO Ever hear of the frog in boiling water syndrome? If it can happen (a window not being opened), it's probably been planned for. In other words, all they have to do is NOT open a window for there to be a potential problem. I'm sure there's an answer to my question. These guys are smart; they're not trying to hermetically seal a living space. I'm simply asking where that boundary lies out of pure curiosity.
You have to have an air exchanger otherwise exhaust fans wouldn't work, etc.
Always good to see Doug! I like that Zip-R system!
What brand are these windows and doors?
I haven't gone through all of the comments....sorry if this is redundant.
Great stuff, but can a "high performance" house be built without taking out a jumbo loan?
Yes, smaller house. You don't need 5 bedrooms and 3000 sqft
Yes, smaller
And a simple traditional design
A lot of these homes have hectic shapes that cost $ to get right
Can over sealing a house cause a sick house .Even with an expensive heat recovery system and air cleaners .The long run cost may be great but the short term price of the house .To many homes in foreclosure these days .I bought a modular house back in 2004 and had it over built for southside VA .8 foot ceilings and 2x6 studs and triple pane windows .Yes I have 2 sets of sliders and no real big difference .Attic is over insulated with blown in insulation and heat pump is a lennox 16 seer 4 ton unit and I still think heat pumps are garbage .I came here from NJ to up on a hill in VA with lots of wind .We have only electric or propane where I live and that sucks also .My floors are insulated and slab and walls of my basement were insulated .Are we making houses just to tight these days .Here it is the cost of a build so that is the reason for my modular ,One set price no over runs and no wet house while it is being built and faster build time and I had to move fast because my house in NJ sold sight unseen .Would this be worth it here ,NO ,where houses sell for less than 30 or 40 thousand
Yup sliding windows and doors are pretty terrible.
*NO NEED FOR FOAM* if you seal every joint from the outside! This is a massive discovery.
Matt Risinger consider OKNA windows, their casement windows are so good.
Okna and windows are the same thing if you know both English and Russian
Any good videos from this years Hot & Humid climate conference? I wonder how hard it would be to get all the local architects and builders in SW FL to assemble in one place to do a live video stream conference with some out of state experts that know what they are doing?
Lift and Slide doors!
Matt, with all of the spots being a window seam of some sorts creating a lot of the air leaks, would they be able to caulk them and seal them up a bit?
The issue with the windows is not in their connection to the framing but the windows own gaskets. So you could caulk them shut I guess... But that would defeat the purpose of a sliding glass door :)
@@MandoFettOG lol I know that. I thought they were taping over seams in the frames of the windows. I figured if that was the case, they can caulk them a bit.
@@mikecampanella1990 oh haha gotcha sorry for the sarcasm I couldn't resist
Time is money for most builders, so why not just do traditional on the outside then AeroBarrier the entire house from the inside before the insulation gets put on?
I was personally involved on this project and learned (the hard way) that it is much easier to completely seal the exterior of the home vs the inside.
Time is money and completely sealing the exterior first can save a tremendous amount of time and money.
@@colinspradlin there's definitely more than one way to achieve the same results. Perhaps do an entire fluid applied on the outside then aerobarrier on the inside. Eliminates lots of man hours, IMHO
Aerobarrier seems to be a great system, but it costs around 5k for a 3000 ft house. if you can save this much money in labor cost, it may be an option. $5000 divided by $25 / hr = 200 man hours. minus sealant and supplies.
Probably those crap Marwin windows. I have never seen so bad gaps and fitment on windows straight from the factory.
so what kind of windows are they?
Milgard
and sliders ... sliders/hung windows are horrible. Im from Europe and we dont have that overthere. All houses use a type of casement with like triple seals in different axis. pretty standard and cheap.
There, RUclips. I finally watched this video!
Pioneer? Pretty sure I've seen liquid flashing on zip before that video.
Does anyone make a device that can measure the BTU loss of a house?
Bryan Hensley You have to hire an energy consultant service that runs a simulation based on r-value, house construction, air tightness, etc...
Electricity and/or gas meter? Seriously, you can do a "coheating" test, but it's not a trivial test to do...
Manual J
How much does a project like this cost? What's the ROI on an investment like this?
Homes are an asset that generally appreciates. Building a well-built, durable, and efficient home is always a better investment. You get one chance to insulate and air seal a home till it gets a significant remodel 50-100+ years down the line. Now is the time to Build better!
@@buildshow A house historically appreciates at 3% (keeps up with inflation) - for comparison, the stock market appreciates at 9%. Traditionally, an asset is something that pays you money; A house does not pay you anything, in fact a paid off house has a lot of expenses with maintenance, taxes, HOA's, etc. In anycase, how does this system compare to a traditional build? Is it 50% more expensive? 70% more expensive?
I only ask as we're looking to renovate, and love the building science concepts. We are tied to a budget, but would like to get an idea on what something like this would cost us.
I would generally expect to pay a 10-20% premium for a well built home with durability and efficiency and comfort as a goal. You can of course spend more. See my video Friday for some exact cost data on some of these components.
What are some decent replacement windows that don’t cost an arm & leg? I have a 1961 brick ranch style house that desperately needs new windows. I’m in Charlotte NC. Are triple pane windows overkill? The house also has no shade. Hot in the summer. Freezing in the winter. Great video!
Really depends. One thing to be wary of is most North American triple pane windows perform not much better than their double pane counterparts, because instead of installing them in frames meant for triple pane, they just squeeze another sheet of glass inside a double pane window frame. Look at whole assembly u-factors in order to compare windows.
I have a 1980 house, CMU in SW FL. Door to door window salesman trying to get me to replace my original single pane. I always tell them if I was going to spend the money I would be better off replacing my old ductwork and adding more insulation to the attic first.
My house was built in 1956 by people whose intelligence was outpaced by chimps. I had a company come and pressurize my house Unfortunately they didn't have enough pressure to make that happen air was leaking all over the place.
I know this guy he's got a 1-inch piece of rigid and a fat wife
houses for rich people, houses built to these standards will cost so much that most of the population cannot afford. People want windows and doors that open, triple glass will not be any tighter, it's the sliding and closing edges that leak, and while a high end window might give good numbers to the builder what will they do in five years? And if you bring in exotic windows from elsewhere what happens when they break and the owner can't find a replacement? add to that the complications of the air handling equipment to supply conditioned make up air and needed exchanges to overcome the fartbox problem.
Looking at the bigger picture, new building represents less than 1% of the overall stock annually. Probably about half of our units are 100 years old or more, most uninsulated, and with leaky windows, doors, and whatever. And with heating system dating to the stone age. Landlords are not going to make investment in bringing things up to code, if that can actually be done, without big increases in rents and the big dislocation that will cause. Even units that are relatively young, built in the 70s and 80s fall short. What saddens me is seeing the older homes being updated with vinyl to replace the hardwood windows and plastic siding over the original and still good clapboard that only needed painting. The future for the working class is either mobile homes or tents.
So... would you say you are a “glass half empty” or “glass half full” kind of guy? Just curious
Been thinking about this for a while now and there’s no easy answer. Sure the benefits of health and pocketbook are phenomenal, but the costs can be something that prevent people (especially landlords) from making these adjustments to existing homes.
At the same time there could be advocacy for some type of credit to those who upgrade existing homes to offset costs.
The bottom line for me isn’t money but people. We can all be more creative to make this movement happen a lot smoother. The amount of existing houses is the biggest deal as they aren’t going to be torn down (and don’t need to) to get new standards on new builds.
For me, instead of the front runner being SFRs, businesses need to adopt these practices ASAP. If by building these phenomenal structures save energy costs and help benefit employee health, the savings show up in businesses putting more money into R&D, income, etc. instead of the overhead of holding a brick & mortar.
That’s where more of the advocacy needs to lie as we continue to stretch out for making these homes what they need to be.
when did i ever heard that my window needed some WD-40 for the gasket.... never
I thought windows and doors where and are one of the most important parts.. Why buy cheep windows?
Pop what if quiz!
House is air tight.... power goes out, how much time before a family of five suffocate?
Depends on size of the house, dummy.
how tight is too tight , with out gassing , I like some fresh air
Use materials which you will not have to worry about gassing
And use an E/HRV to get your fresh air.
The Risinger way is to go 200% on all the exterior weather proofing to ensure NO water. Then to use systems to bring the air into the home and condition it (humidity, filter, temperature). Obviously there's risks in going so tight on everything because moisture can't get out if it gets in, but there really are good products out there to really take the exterior water-proofing to that 200%. Joe Lstiburek is a straight shooter building scientist that really laid it out for me.
Active air system
It can't be too tight. You don't want to rely on leaks in the house to provide your fresh air. Mechanical ventilation is key.
window and door manufacturer??
Purposely left their name out of the video.
@@buildshow yes I understand you don't want to offend. But can you tell us type of windows to stay away from?
Generally speaking swinging doors are better than sliders and casement windows are better than single or double hungs.
Okay? With a house sealed that tightly, are you putting a fresh air intake in the hvac system?
Looks like your just asking to get sick without the air changing in your home.
Commercial buildings need to have a certain amount of fresh air as to not get EVERYONE sick when one gets sick.
I'd rather have a breeze than being sick all the time.
Show me all that liquid flash in 35 to 75 years.
Chances are high it will still be there and even if not, didn’t you benefit for 30-70 years?
It’s not like the wrap membranes are any better; sure it’s there but torn ones, or ones that have holes aren’t better.
The monolithic approach is a better bet imo than one that can fail simply because someone wasn’t on their A-game that day.
If A/C units didn’t come around, we may not even be having this conversation.
ONCE AGAIN!!!
#buildingexcellance
Depressurize
Asinine..... Let's make a house tight A/F and then install an ERV to allow air back in and out. Dumbest current trend in building today. You WANT your house to breathe. smh.
If you were talking non-A/C setups then you might be right. But the tech for home A/C is relatively new in world history and them + breathing house isn’t great. Nor is air-conditioned space going anywhere.
I’ve seen builds that are tight and don’t have A/C not an ERV or anything like it, but use windows and updraft and a dehumidifier as their fresh intake system.
Those folks living in that though don’t have a lot of sensitivities with regards to air quality like a lot of people do.
As businesses adopt these practices, their operation costs will go down, hopefully that means better-paid employees and the overall costs will diminish.
Even microwaves when first introduced were only for the “wealthy” and now we can get one for like $30 new.