"....parts I don't make. Yet." You just gotta love how Steve drops hints and is constantly expanding the shop's abilities. He surely is always investing in the future of engine building... 😎😎🤘🤘
I've seen Alan's Monte doing the Drag-n-Drive deal....and he's a good dude! Always seemed to be in a good mood even when things weren't going well which is a sign of a class act. Beautiful car too!
Bubbles form during cavitation. As the pressure in the pump increases, those bubbles collapse in the form of an implosion - equally as violent as an explosion. The implosion causes shockwaves to travel through the liquid and hit the impeller causing mechanical damage.
Almost there! At the trailing side of a blade you can get such an under pressure that it creates a little steam bubble. That's when the pressure is locally so low that the boiling point reaches the ambient water temperature and little steam bubbles form. When those bubbles collapse they _directly_ impinge on the trailing surface of a blade. That's what causes cavitation erosion. (It can also occur in, say, gear oil pumps. So it's not just in water, or on the low pressure side of blades. It can also happen where gear teeth in fluid separate.)
This is one of the few channels that I never fast forward the video, because I'm afraid and miss something interesting.. Thanks Steve and Kyle for educating us..
It's cavitation burns you're thinking of. The supersonic implosion of the bubbles erode the surface. Happens to propellers on powerboats sometimes as well.
The Mantis Shrimp utilizes the Cavitation/Implosion phenomena to unleash a deadly blow with its front appendages. The cavitation bubbles formed and then popped release a shockwave that can crack mollusks shells, break glass, and, apparently damage dynamometer torque absorber components.
Reminds me of the Hydrostatic water brakes we used way back in the days of me running a drilling rig here in Okla. Those things could hold back nearly 100,000 lbs or more from falling thru the rig floor when going in the hole. "Memories". LOL
Cavitation will only occur in the absorber if not enough suction pressure (feed water pressure) is maintained on it. You must keep the water in a liquid state as you add HP (heat) to it. As the absorber temp rises the supply pressure needs to rise and stay above the boiling point of the fluid. The minimum flow required can be determined by...........HP x 5.5 divided by the Allowable Temp Rise of the fluid.
Didn't they say they had plumbed compressed air into the absorber? Bubble implosion associated with cavitation is typical of a poor suction condition resulting in vaporization, but the independent introduction of air could induce the same result once it reaches the high pressure zones of the absorber.
cavitation bubbles can produce so much energy when they collapse that sometimes it emits flashes of light, called sonoluminescence, so of course it'll erode metals.
I recognize that guy from across the pond. Since I made the switch to Your Dyno, ive had zero issues from my dynocom dyno that was broke down more than it wasn't.
The amount of technical information in Steve Morris videos is wonderful. I love that you always are pushing forward, trying to make everything as perfect as possible. Keep up the grind Steve, your work ethic and technical knowledge is second to none, and the end product shows exactly that.
Tuning a PID, is why we joke about that control loop as Pain Inflicting Device. We still use a Schenk dyno with electric motors to load testing of inverters. That new dyno of yours is awesome, nice work there.
"Slow sweep" Words i never thought id hear on the morris channel. Hallelujah. Im proud of u doing all this. Max love from a long time watcher, complainer and enjoy-er of your channel.
The brake is just a simple pump. It will only boil the water if there isn't enough pressure on the water to kept it in the fluid state. Nothing wrong with the water getting hot (very hot) if enough pressure is maintained on the fluid to keep it in a fluid state (no boiling) so long as the temp is within the limits of the absorber. Refer to a publication called 'Cameron Hydraulics' to understand the pressure / tempreture curve required to keep the water in a liquid state at any tempreture or pressure.
Its hard to have a single dyno cover a huge power range. An eddy current large enough to absorb that kind of power would be huge, and it would have so much inertia start ups and shut downs would be brutal. And as you can see, a water brake designed to absorb several thousand horsepower, does not flow enough water to stay cool with engines that create "low" torque. You will know when the water in the absorber turns to steam... steam doesnt hold back any power... instant rev limiter. Also, bi-directional dynos are very commonplace in automotive engine development. First shift runs the engine on one side, second shift runs the engine on the other side... minimal downtime. Andddd, Alan's car is amazing!
The pitting that Steve is talking about is when micro bubbles form on the vanes, and when they collapse they create an ultrasonic shockwave that hits the metal so hard it begins to erode
Just an observation from one tradesman to another. I've been working with PVC for over 25 years. The swept tee at the bottom of the pipe is meant for drainage applications where there is no water pressure. The glue sockets are halve the depth of a schedule 40 fitting meant for pressure. That is defiantly the weakest point of your setup. PVC glue is supper strong it's aloud to cure, but that Tee is not meant for pressure, the plastic isn't as thick. I'd keep an eye out for cracks.
I have literature from the early 70s where Clayton recommended buying an absorber with dual inputs so in the future when engines got even more powerful you could add another absorber to handle the power. They are rated 2500ftlbs individual or 5000ft-lbs in tandem. They are awesome for steady state because they used closed water in the absorbers so the torque load can be held constant. They also use air pressure thru the vent to add dyno load as it is easier to do 1% increase in torque with air than trying to get an ounce or 2 of water into the brake
Love my your dyno stuff, works great on my 902 dyno, Question though, why not use the servo valve on the outlet side, after plumbing in adequate volume capacity, and put a variable static valve on the intake side to control the servo percentage on starting the sweep, at say 70-90%, thus keeping water pressure in the brake, and maybe keep the cavitation down a little. Just a thought. Jostien is a great guy, his customer service is second to none. Enjoy your channel, I don't know how you don't burn yourself out...lol!!
Super cool seeing the inside details of what it takes to be the best!! We know it’s time and money, first!!! But always enjoy see the details. Great video as always!!! From SME. My local hero!!
You're talking about getting more water out of the brake, but I'm wondering if the inlet is restricted causing cavitation, or maybe there is some air in the water supply somehow. Maybe use a well water pressure tank as a sort of accumulator, to insure solid air free supply water.
inertial style dyno vs load bearing dyno, there's also the Engine Dyno (in inertial vs load bearing), or the Chassis dyno, not to mention the hub dyno or the roller dyno. I'm not exact here, but I think the most accurate that I've enountered with the engine in the chassis was the 'mustang dyno' where the dyno puts the car under load of some type, which reduces the actual HP, and TQ level output. Dynojet or dynopack whateve they call it isn't under installed chassis load so its numbers are considerably higher, and likely higher to some degree. When the car is under load, it really comes down to the driver and the conditions at hand. If the card puts out too much HP, it loses traction, and loses the race if it can't get traction before the other driver does. If its perfect conditions, the track is sticky, and humidity is low - you can get very solid numbers on the track - that match the exact numbers on the dyno, but the dyno numbers never translate to skills of the driver - if the driver can't drive... they ain't gonna put the power to the track.... and probably blow up a few things in the process of proving otherwise!
cavitation is small bubbles that form when you have a low side and high side which makes microscopic implosions which makes pitting's on the low side. In your case the steam is caused by some air in the system that will cause both symptoms or the unit itself might not have the tolerances it needs.
As hot rodding gets more electronics, it's good to see open source getting used. I wish there was more open source powertrain management hardware and software.
The steam bubbles collapsing (imploding) generate BIG localized pressure spikes (This is the principle ulltrasonic cleaners use). Here they are much stronger, and do damage, similar to what detonation does to pistons.
@@steveletson6616 TBH the yourdyno guys have been around for ages. Steve has used Yourdyno ( DAQ and valves for a long time on the big engines. This absorber is a brand new concept and is under going testing (what you see here). It is not yet a consumer product. I have no doubt it will progress to the same point the control valve has (one of the best available anywhere). This kind of gear isn't developed overnight and its also extremely cheap compared to other offerings, i think pricing (when i enquired for my own shop) was around 14k for a full conversion with a billet absorber (when released) compared to 30k plus for other manufacturers. For some perspective many US / Australian companies charge 20k just for the software.. .no hardware.
@@steveletson6616 well they might not be used to bigger engins being dynoed but its normal to have some teething problems when installing a new system like he said a larger water exhaust and some minor things should fix it time will tell if steve is happy
Cavitation is actually a micro implosion that happens from a fluid pump or impeller whipping air while operating in a liquid. Had a customer with a 40 Hp irrigation pump for a golf course they couldn’t get to prime. There's 10 miles of plumbing to the sprinkler heads, and the pump sucks from a pond. They started the motor with everything wide open. Which meant there was 0 resistance on the pump that’s trying to pressurize 10 miles of plumbing. The pump sounded like it was full of gravel and got hot enough to burn the paint off the volute. I showed up, closed the outlet ball valve to 15% choked the pump off to add resistance to the impeller. Once it filled all the lines I opened the outlet ball valve up and she was silent. 👍🤘
37:00 cavitation actually hammers the metal and breaks it off atom by atom. The cavitation "bubbles" collapse to zero with a small but very intense shock. Soon you have a hole where there used to be metal.
Similar to a torque converter, but not exactly. There's no stator in the middle of that absorber to multiply the torque, so it literally is a fluid coupler. That fluid coupler is attached to something stationary which has the dynamometer reading sensors and when calculating the water flow, the absorption rate, and what the sensors are reading, you'll get a more accurate measurement. Lots of math involved.
Bigger water drain holes should help, with a big absober like that and relatively low power at high rpm there will not be much water flowing through the absorber, if your water system can maintain 60psi at full absorber capacity then bigger drains shouldn't be a problem,. If you do a test with the load valve fully open and the pipes disconnected from the absorber into a bucket it should maintain 60psi, if it doesn't you need a bigger capacity pump, I use YourDyno systems on all my dyno builds 👍
Cavitation is small bubbles imploding at the speed of sound and the bubbles eat away at the metal. Boat props can erode from cavitation at the tips of the prop.
You should have water inlet and outlet temp on the absorbers. That will tell you alot about what's happening and the health of the absorber. The absorber turns energy into heat. Also a good idea to have a flow meter on the output of the absorber. Sorry I'm an instrumentation engr and a car guy who built a dyno in college. 😂
God you never see them, but one of my all time favorite Chevy's, the 70 or 72 Monte Carlo(negative on the 71, 72 is favorite appearance wise, even though it couldn't be had with the 4spd)....a guy down the street from me when I was 13 through 17 had a gorgeous dark green, black vinyl roof, black cloth bucket, 71 Monte Carlo with the 396 Big Block ("400/402" still the damn 396 🙄😤) with a 4spd and rallies....it looked so good, I loved that thing, even if it wasn't a 72 😅
SME can now dyno food grade motors with their new unit, LOL! Those valves look like ones we used while I worked at a breakfast bar manufacturing plant.
The seats have good headrests and, additionally, the foam pads on the funny car cage is a great method of helmet containment. He has proper harnesses in the car and also notice that the bottom of the seat is modified for a proper anti-submarine belt. It's actually a pretty nice setup that looks really nice visually and is probably a lot more comfortable/less fatiguing for street driving.
@@keefershotrodshop The integrity of that seat was never meant to restrain someone in a racing harness. I have seen actual racing seats get torn apart in crashes. When that happens, you are no longer strapped in, and flop about. Additionally, there are no side bolstering on those seats, and a racing seat is not safe because it's soft, quite the opposite. It needs to keep you strapped in firmly. That is nearly impossible to do when you get strapped against something soft. That old headrest might not hold up in a crash either, so it might not support your head at all - crashing while wearing the additional weight of a helmet and nothing to support your head, that's bad. There's a reason why we use containment seats in our FIA approved GT3 and GTE race cars. This is a 200+ mph car, that governing body does not even demand a HANS. As a racing veteran, I cannot for the life of me understand how that is allowed.
@@AB-80X- At least this car actually has padding on the bars around the drivers head. I would say many, and perhaps most of the drag and drive cars with funny car cages do not have padding on those bars. Just imagine the drivers head were the car to get in an accident while the car is being driven on the street. And the driver is not wearing a helmet….
@@danmyers9372 agreed, and thats why you need a padded containment seat so your head doesnt get a lot of speed/movement and hitting the cage in case of an accident
17:00 if you right click the taskbar at the bottom of the screen and click on "taskbar settings" - click "Taskbar Behaviors" - click in the empty grey square next to "Automatically Hide the Taskbar." We dont need that black bar at the bottom do we? You just increased your screen by a bit ;) happy to help p.s. is your dynoman swedish by chance? also you got a thumbs up for the tripod style stand for the fuel :) that is art right there.
What happens with the brake is if you don't have a way to control the flow out of the brake, your fill level which is what controls the torque holding capacity is only a function of the flow of water in. The water flow rate has to match the horsepower, and the flow rate out is to some extent a function of speed and fill level as the brake does pump the water. I would expect the problem to get worse with more torque as I don't see more fill level increasing the flow rate more than proportionally to the torque, but I can see it getting better at higher RPM as the pumping efficacy of the brake should increase more than proportionally with increased speed. Ideally you want the brake's exhaust to flow too much, as it's easier to put a restrictor in there to reduce the flow so you can keep it filled rather than having the flow rate out be the limiting factor on how much power you can hold. In any case, ideally you don't want to exceed 160F for brake longevity, and with 50F input temperature that equates to a flow rate of about 1 gallon per second for every 1300 horsepower you put in.
Big diesel engines have specific coolant to combat the "cavitation" that your explaining. It will actually erode the liners from the vibration and explosion inside the cylinder and create these bubbles.
Froude makes dynos you can "stack". All the big three have test cells that have "stacked" setups. they run AVL software. water brake with a AC dyno. Been doing that for a long while...
Cavitation happens when the waters pressure drops below its vapor pressure, causing cavities to form. As these cavities collapse, shockwaves are created that erode the impellers metal surface.
The dyno absorber needs a " Boost fixes everything , or breaks everything " sticker .
"....parts I don't make. Yet."
You just gotta love how Steve drops hints and is constantly expanding the shop's abilities. He surely is always investing in the future of engine building... 😎😎🤘🤘
I've seen Alan's Monte doing the Drag-n-Drive deal....and he's a good dude! Always seemed to be in a good mood even when things weren't going well which is a sign of a class act. Beautiful car too!
“Parts that I don’t make……..yet 😎”
Bubbles form during cavitation. As the pressure in the pump increases, those bubbles collapse in the form of an implosion - equally as violent as an explosion. The implosion causes shockwaves to travel through the liquid and hit the impeller causing mechanical damage.
Almost there! At the trailing side of a blade you can get such an under pressure that it creates a little steam bubble. That's when the pressure is locally so low that the boiling point reaches the ambient water temperature and little steam bubbles form. When those bubbles collapse they _directly_ impinge on the trailing surface of a blade. That's what causes cavitation erosion.
(It can also occur in, say, gear oil pumps. So it's not just in water, or on the low pressure side of blades. It can also happen where gear teeth in fluid separate.)
Same thing that happens to ship propellers.
It happens in the coolant on the outside of an engines cylinder sleeves too
@@Hydrazine1000 Few weeks ago did see video of SBC oilpump with clear cover. Damn there was alot of bubbles and cavitation.
That Monte Carlo is an absolute sensation! :)
I love the plastic ABS Y connector among all the stainless 2000 psi braided lines...lol.
This is one of the few channels that I never fast forward the video, because I'm afraid and miss something interesting..
Thanks Steve and Kyle for educating us..
Make sure you share it 😁
Helps me out
Fast Forwarding can also over-rev the engine.
It's cavitation burns you're thinking of. The supersonic implosion of the bubbles erode the surface. Happens to propellers on powerboats sometimes as well.
Extremely high temperature when that happens too
and also, the same basic physics behind ultrasonic cleaners
The Mantis Shrimp utilizes the Cavitation/Implosion phenomena to unleash a deadly blow with its front appendages.
The cavitation bubbles formed and then popped release a shockwave that can crack mollusks shells, break glass, and, apparently damage dynamometer torque absorber components.
@@hkguitar1984 Steve really needs to follow our advice and evict the mantis shrimp from his well
@@JamesTK 🤣👍
Steve Morris presents: "The World's Loudest Water Heater"
all dyno brakes get hot
Reminds me of the Hydrostatic water brakes we used way back in the days of me running a drilling rig here in Okla. Those things could hold back nearly 100,000 lbs or more from falling thru the rig floor when going in the hole. "Memories". LOL
Cavitation will only occur in the absorber if not enough suction pressure (feed water pressure) is maintained on it. You must keep the water in a liquid state as you add HP (heat) to it. As the absorber temp rises the supply pressure needs to rise and stay above the boiling point of the fluid. The minimum flow required can be determined by...........HP x 5.5 divided by the Allowable Temp Rise of the fluid.
Didn't they say they had plumbed compressed air into the absorber? Bubble implosion associated with cavitation is typical of a poor suction condition resulting in vaporization, but the independent introduction of air could induce the same result once it reaches the high pressure zones of the absorber.
So they have low volume on the feed?
cavitation bubbles can produce so much energy when they collapse that sometimes it emits flashes of light, called sonoluminescence, so of course it'll erode metals.
I recognize that guy from across the pond. Since I made the switch to Your Dyno, ive had zero issues from my dynocom dyno that was broke down more than it wasn't.
That new absorberDyno is going to be awesome once tuned in!! Nice!!
I’ve been subscribed for years since you were at 11k subscribers have never watched one of your videos and not learned something love the videos Steve
Thanks
The amount of technical information in Steve Morris videos is wonderful. I love that you always are pushing forward, trying to make everything as perfect as possible. Keep up the grind Steve, your work ethic and technical knowledge is second to none, and the end product shows exactly that.
The damage from cavitation happens when the micro bubbles collapse and act like a hammer hitting the metal.
Like mantis shrimp swimming in there lol
@@1320wolf
Killer analogy!
Stainless steel, machined beautiful butterfly valve > Hardware store PVC Drain pipe > AN Fitting hoses. Love it!
Having been through industrial engine dyno and truck dyno issues: having on site reps is reassuring. Dynos are not without issues.
Tuning a PID, is why we joke about that control loop as Pain Inflicting Device.
We still use a Schenk dyno with electric motors to load testing of inverters.
That new dyno of yours is awesome, nice work there.
"Slow sweep" Words i never thought id hear on the morris channel. Hallelujah. Im proud of u doing all this. Max love from a long time watcher, complainer and enjoy-er of your channel.
Awesome how whilst your in reflection or assessing a scenario, an element of viewer involvement overwhelm’s my interest…🤔
Top Job Jim Bob….🛠
Fantastic stuff Steve, thanks for taking us all along.
Fingers crossed this one doesn't snap, otherwise you'll have to stop making so much power.
I’m pretty sure it was the flywheel bolts shearing that tore everything up on Hammonds engine! 🤷🤷🤷🤷
Reduce power 😱😱😱😱😱
STEVE what happened to GRETTA?
U have to replace her in the bottom left window..😂😂😂😂😂😂 🎉🎉🎉
I will
@@stevemorrisracing
Did part of the blower hit her in the head?
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
The brake is just a simple pump. It will only boil the water if there isn't enough pressure on the water to kept it in the fluid state. Nothing wrong with the water getting hot (very hot) if enough pressure is maintained on the fluid to keep it in a fluid state (no boiling) so long as the temp is within the limits of the absorber. Refer to a publication called 'Cameron Hydraulics' to understand the pressure / tempreture curve required to keep the water in a liquid state at any tempreture or pressure.
Steve i love the amount of work you put in to just making the videos for every one here on your channel.
thank you so much.
Thanks
Nothing is ever simple there’s always something that makes u scratch your head
Very nice. I see you got a new accelerator handle!!
The digital remote hanging scale on the torque arm is cool.
That monte is my literal dream car, colours and everything, 3000hp just make it that much better
I'm a bike guy and i love this channel! Thanks for all the PROFESSIONAL, awesome content Steve!
Its hard to have a single dyno cover a huge power range. An eddy current large enough to absorb that kind of power would be huge, and it would have so much inertia start ups and shut downs would be brutal. And as you can see, a water brake designed to absorb several thousand horsepower, does not flow enough water to stay cool with engines that create "low" torque. You will know when the water in the absorber turns to steam... steam doesnt hold back any power... instant rev limiter.
Also, bi-directional dynos are very commonplace in automotive engine development. First shift runs the engine on one side, second shift runs the engine on the other side... minimal downtime.
Andddd, Alan's car is amazing!
Super sweet monte carlo!
I've had a 76, 79 and an 84. Always loved the 70-72.
The pitting that Steve is talking about is when micro bubbles form on the vanes, and when they collapse they create an ultrasonic shockwave that hits the metal so hard it begins to erode
Just an observation from one tradesman to another. I've been working with PVC for over 25 years. The swept tee at the bottom of the pipe is meant for drainage applications where there is no water pressure. The glue sockets are halve the depth of a schedule 40 fitting meant for pressure. That is defiantly the weakest point of your setup. PVC glue is supper strong it's aloud to cure, but that Tee is not meant for pressure, the plastic isn't as thick. I'd keep an eye out for cracks.
Thats a beautiful Monte Carlo
only 3008 to the wheels? phhh lol my 98 sierra would take that car on the street. 280 at the crank baby
I have literature from the early 70s where Clayton recommended buying an absorber with dual inputs so in the future when engines got even more powerful you could add another absorber to handle the power. They are rated 2500ftlbs individual or 5000ft-lbs in tandem. They are awesome for steady state because they used closed water in the absorbers so the torque load can be held constant. They also use air pressure thru the vent to add dyno load as it is easier to do 1% increase in torque with air than trying to get an ounce or 2 of water into the brake
That Monte Carlo is beautiful.
Steve always on an adventure to improve everything!😄👍
Love my your dyno stuff, works great on my 902 dyno, Question though, why not use the servo valve on the outlet side, after plumbing in adequate volume capacity, and put a variable static valve on the intake side to control the servo percentage on starting the sweep, at say 70-90%, thus keeping water pressure in the brake, and maybe keep the cavitation down a little. Just a thought. Jostien is a great guy, his customer service is second to none. Enjoy your channel, I don't know how you don't burn yourself out...lol!!
I've loved that green MC since the first time I've seen it. 😍
That's is one brute of an absorber. Makes my SuperFlow 901 absorber look like a baby 👶 Can't wait to see it in action.
I ❤ the northen Norwegian accent.
That's awesome 👌 good luck on your dyno...keep living the dream ✨️
That Monte is one of the nicest, cleanest cars I had ever seen!
Super cool seeing the inside details of what it takes to be the best!!
We know it’s time and money, first!!!
But always enjoy see the details.
Great video as always!!!
From SME. My local hero!!
Very interesting dyno information. Alan's Monte Carlo is " perfection " .! Many thanks.
Thanks for bringin' us !
Darn.. I did not get a call about sugar momma.. really wanted to have it
Absolutely love your channel.
Whats best is all the information you share. Keep it up
Thanks
I love that you have Jostein there. He must be cringing as hard as i am about that dynocom piece of shit.
PID= proportional integral derivative, a equation to make predictions and adjustments. The RPM of the engine being controlled by the valve on the dyno
You're talking about getting more water out of the brake, but I'm wondering if the inlet is restricted causing cavitation, or maybe there is some air in the water supply somehow. Maybe use a well water pressure tank as a sort of accumulator, to insure solid air free supply water.
inertial style dyno vs load bearing dyno, there's also the Engine Dyno (in inertial vs load bearing), or the Chassis dyno, not to mention the hub dyno or the roller dyno.
I'm not exact here, but I think the most accurate that I've enountered with the engine in the chassis was the 'mustang dyno' where the dyno puts the car under load of some type, which reduces the actual HP, and TQ level output. Dynojet or dynopack whateve they call it isn't under installed chassis load so its numbers are considerably higher, and likely higher to some degree.
When the car is under load, it really comes down to the driver and the conditions at hand. If the card puts out too much HP, it loses traction, and loses the race if it can't get traction before the other driver does.
If its perfect conditions, the track is sticky, and humidity is low - you can get very solid numbers on the track - that match the exact numbers on the dyno, but the dyno numbers never translate to skills of the driver - if the driver can't drive... they ain't gonna put the power to the track.... and probably blow up a few things in the process of proving otherwise!
cavitation is small bubbles that form when you have a low side and high side which makes microscopic implosions which makes pitting's on the low side. In your case the steam is caused by some air in the system that will cause both symptoms or the unit itself might not have the tolerances it needs.
As hot rodding gets more electronics, it's good to see open source getting used. I wish there was more open source powertrain management hardware and software.
Where do they even run a SMX in England? I feel like that engine is too big to fit down the streets there by itself 🤣
Gotta love a K9 QC manager
You and cleetus drop at the same time. You win this one. No way I can pass up a video on the billet water brake!
The steam bubbles collapsing (imploding) generate BIG localized pressure spikes (This is the principle ulltrasonic cleaners use). Here they are much stronger, and do damage, similar to what detonation does to pistons.
wow a norwegian dyno system put into use in the states thats pretty cool
The Norwegian seemed to be providing more excuses than answers. This was with hardly any power compared to what Steve wants to use it for.
@@steveletson6616 TBH the yourdyno guys have been around for ages. Steve has used Yourdyno ( DAQ and valves for a long time on the big engines. This absorber is a brand new concept and is under going testing (what you see here). It is not yet a consumer product. I have no doubt it will progress to the same point the control valve has (one of the best available anywhere). This kind of gear isn't developed overnight and its also extremely cheap compared to other offerings, i think pricing (when i enquired for my own shop) was around 14k for a full conversion with a billet absorber (when released) compared to 30k plus for other manufacturers. For some perspective many US / Australian companies charge 20k just for the software.. .no hardware.
@@steveletson6616 well they might not be used to bigger engins being dynoed but its normal to have some teething problems when installing a new system like he said a larger water exhaust and some minor things should fix it time will tell if steve is happy
Cavitation is actually a micro implosion that happens from a fluid pump or impeller whipping air while operating in a liquid.
Had a customer with a 40 Hp irrigation pump for a golf course they couldn’t get to prime.
There's 10 miles of plumbing to the sprinkler heads, and the pump sucks from a pond.
They started the motor with everything wide open. Which meant there was 0 resistance on the pump that’s trying to pressurize 10 miles of plumbing. The pump sounded like it was full of gravel and got hot enough to burn the paint off the volute.
I showed up, closed the outlet ball valve to 15% choked the pump off to add resistance to the impeller. Once it filled all the lines I opened the outlet ball valve up and she was silent. 👍🤘
Nothing average about a 200k street car but it is absolutely beautiful. My favorite Drag/Sick Week vehicle
That Monte Carlo has lovely paint.
37:00 cavitation actually hammers the metal and breaks it off atom by atom. The cavitation "bubbles" collapse to zero with a small but very intense shock. Soon you have a hole where there used to be metal.
Similar to a torque converter, but not exactly. There's no stator in the middle of that absorber to multiply the torque, so it literally is a fluid coupler.
That fluid coupler is attached to something stationary which has the dynamometer reading sensors and when calculating the water flow, the absorption rate, and what the sensors are reading, you'll get a more accurate measurement. Lots of math involved.
Bigger water drain holes should help, with a big absober like that and relatively low power at high rpm there will not be much water flowing through the absorber, if your water system can maintain 60psi at full absorber capacity then bigger drains shouldn't be a problem,.
If you do a test with the load valve fully open and the pipes disconnected from the absorber into a bucket it should maintain 60psi, if it doesn't you need a bigger capacity pump,
I use YourDyno systems on all my dyno builds 👍
Cavitation is small bubbles imploding at the speed of sound and the bubbles eat away at the metal. Boat props can erode from cavitation at the tips of the prop.
You should have water inlet and outlet temp on the absorbers.
That will tell you alot about what's happening and the health of the absorber.
The absorber turns energy into heat.
Also a good idea to have a flow meter on the output of the absorber.
Sorry I'm an instrumentation engr and a car guy who built a dyno in college. 😂
God you never see them, but one of my all time favorite Chevy's, the 70 or 72 Monte Carlo(negative on the 71, 72 is favorite appearance wise, even though it couldn't be had with the 4spd)....a guy down the street from me when I was 13 through 17 had a gorgeous dark green, black vinyl roof, black cloth bucket, 71 Monte Carlo with the 396 Big Block ("400/402" still the damn 396 🙄😤) with a 4spd and rallies....it looked so good, I loved that thing, even if it wasn't a 72 😅
Thanks for the education Steve! Would be cool to add a Mopar Pistol Grip shifter knob to your throttle handle.
Improving is always a plus ! Hell yeah 💪🏻
SME can now dyno food grade motors with their new unit, LOL!
Those valves look like ones we used while I worked at a breakfast bar manufacturing plant.
I had him as a Swede ... Close! Cavitation is a b!tch in pumps. Great video, thanks.
That Monte is sweet, when I was a kid or neighbor had a 72 with a sweet 427, always wanted one..
Opportunity missed of "Ain't got no gas in it" lol.
I cannot wrap my head around how those seats can be race legal in something that fast and powerful. Just seems insane to me.
The seats have good headrests and, additionally, the foam pads on the funny car cage is a great method of helmet containment. He has proper harnesses in the car and also notice that the bottom of the seat is modified for a proper anti-submarine belt. It's actually a pretty nice setup that looks really nice visually and is probably a lot more comfortable/less fatiguing for street driving.
@@keefershotrodshop
The integrity of that seat was never meant to restrain someone in a racing harness. I have seen actual racing seats get torn apart in crashes. When that happens, you are no longer strapped in, and flop about. Additionally, there are no side bolstering on those seats, and a racing seat is not safe because it's soft, quite the opposite. It needs to keep you strapped in firmly. That is nearly impossible to do when you get strapped against something soft. That old headrest might not hold up in a crash either, so it might not support your head at all - crashing while wearing the additional weight of a helmet and nothing to support your head, that's bad. There's a reason why we use containment seats in our FIA approved GT3 and GTE race cars. This is a 200+ mph car, that governing body does not even demand a HANS. As a racing veteran, I cannot for the life of me understand how that is allowed.
@@AB-80X- At least this car actually has padding on the bars around the drivers head. I would say many, and perhaps most of the drag and drive cars with funny car cages do not have padding on those bars. Just imagine the drivers head were the car to get in an accident while the car is being driven on the street. And the driver is not wearing a helmet….
@@danmyers9372 agreed, and thats why you need a padded containment seat so your head doesnt get a lot of speed/movement and hitting the cage in case of an accident
17:00 if you right click the taskbar at the bottom of the screen and click on "taskbar settings" - click "Taskbar Behaviors" - click in the empty grey square next to "Automatically Hide the Taskbar."
We dont need that black bar at the bottom do we?
You just increased your screen by a bit ;) happy to help
p.s.
is your dynoman swedish by chance?
also you got a thumbs up for the tripod style stand for the fuel :) that is art right there.
That Monte Carlo is beautiful ❤❤
What happens with the brake is if you don't have a way to control the flow out of the brake, your fill level which is what controls the torque holding capacity is only a function of the flow of water in. The water flow rate has to match the horsepower, and the flow rate out is to some extent a function of speed and fill level as the brake does pump the water. I would expect the problem to get worse with more torque as I don't see more fill level increasing the flow rate more than proportionally to the torque, but I can see it getting better at higher RPM as the pumping efficacy of the brake should increase more than proportionally with increased speed. Ideally you want the brake's exhaust to flow too much, as it's easier to put a restrictor in there to reduce the flow so you can keep it filled rather than having the flow rate out be the limiting factor on how much power you can hold.
In any case, ideally you don't want to exceed 160F for brake longevity, and with 50F input temperature that equates to a flow rate of about 1 gallon per second for every 1300 horsepower you put in.
Big diesel engines have specific coolant to combat the "cavitation" that your explaining.
It will actually erode the liners from the vibration and explosion inside the cylinder and create these bubbles.
Great to see Jostein having success - if Steve Morris wants his product he must be doing (almost everything) right!
Please put the Greta sticker back on the dyno window. Makes me laugh every time I see it. 😂
I will
Froude makes dynos you can "stack". All the big three have test cells that have "stacked" setups. they run AVL software. water brake with a AC dyno. Been doing that for a long while...
We always ran double the size of the outlet as the inlet on our water breaks and didn’t have a problem with our high horse high torque engines
Have to say I'm a little surprised at the PVC Y. Nice Monte Carlo!!
Love that Monte! Beautiful car
Thanks + would like to see the shop rebuild after the blowup, what spec the new walls and glass were etc.
Cavitation happens when the waters pressure drops below its vapor pressure, causing cavities to form. As these cavities collapse,
shockwaves are created that erode the impellers metal surface.
A nice easy 3000hp😂😂
Beautiful car👊🏼
That's nuts, I hope he has some damn good brakes... especially for probably 3800-4000lbs (I'm guessing)
Open source is the way to go. This is a sign of a company with moral fiber.
Nice video ! I am thinkin you are thinking about Cavitation Erosion ! Most common on Cummins engines without proper coolant !
Wow that monte is very very nice😮
This was cool. I learned a lot about how that engine dyno actually works.
That’s the FULL MONTE all right!
Thanks Steve great content
Sounds like the dyno needs a scavenger pump on the outlet maybe.