This is one of the few channels that I never fast forward the video, because I'm afraid and miss something interesting.. Thanks Steve and Kyle for educating us..
I've seen Alan's Monte doing the Drag-n-Drive deal....and he's a good dude! Always seemed to be in a good mood even when things weren't going well which is a sign of a class act. Beautiful car too!
Steve, this video was just awesome . I was 100% engaged the entire time. I could've watched another hour of it easily . This is how you make great content to a target audience . Perfection.
cavitation bubbles can produce so much energy when they collapse that sometimes it emits flashes of light, called sonoluminescence, so of course it'll erode metals.
Bubbles form during cavitation. As the pressure in the pump increases, those bubbles collapse in the form of an implosion - equally as violent as an explosion. The implosion causes shockwaves to travel through the liquid and hit the impeller causing mechanical damage.
Almost there! At the trailing side of a blade you can get such an under pressure that it creates a little steam bubble. That's when the pressure is locally so low that the boiling point reaches the ambient water temperature and little steam bubbles form. When those bubbles collapse they _directly_ impinge on the trailing surface of a blade. That's what causes cavitation erosion. (It can also occur in, say, gear oil pumps. So it's not just in water, or on the low pressure side of blades. It can also happen where gear teeth in fluid separate.)
Cavitation will only occur in the absorber if not enough suction pressure (feed water pressure) is maintained on it. You must keep the water in a liquid state as you add HP (heat) to it. As the absorber temp rises the supply pressure needs to rise and stay above the boiling point of the fluid. The minimum flow required can be determined by...........HP x 5.5 divided by the Allowable Temp Rise of the fluid.
Didn't they say they had plumbed compressed air into the absorber? Bubble implosion associated with cavitation is typical of a poor suction condition resulting in vaporization, but the independent introduction of air could induce the same result once it reaches the high pressure zones of the absorber.
It's cavitation burns you're thinking of. The supersonic implosion of the bubbles erode the surface. Happens to propellers on powerboats sometimes as well.
The Mantis Shrimp utilizes the Cavitation/Implosion phenomena to unleash a deadly blow with its front appendages. The cavitation bubbles formed and then popped release a shockwave that can crack mollusks shells, break glass, and, apparently damage dynamometer torque absorber components.
"....parts I don't make. Yet." You just gotta love how Steve drops hints and is constantly expanding the shop's abilities. He surely is always investing in the future of engine building... 😎😎🤘🤘
The amount of technical information in Steve Morris videos is wonderful. I love that you always are pushing forward, trying to make everything as perfect as possible. Keep up the grind Steve, your work ethic and technical knowledge is second to none, and the end product shows exactly that.
The brake is just a simple pump. It will only boil the water if there isn't enough pressure on the water to kept it in the fluid state. Nothing wrong with the water getting hot (very hot) if enough pressure is maintained on the fluid to keep it in a fluid state (no boiling) so long as the temp is within the limits of the absorber. Refer to a publication called 'Cameron Hydraulics' to understand the pressure / tempreture curve required to keep the water in a liquid state at any tempreture or pressure.
We had that problem with water ring vacuum pumps. The end plates would get scalded from cavitation that by outgassing of the water that created bubbles that would cut into the end plates and rotors. We installed water vapor gas eliminators on the top of the end-plates, and it eliminated the problem. By allowing small amounts of air into the end-plates it passed the bubbles through and out the exhaust side of the pump.
The big block that was in my 68 Camaro was out of a 72 SE Monte... Very cool car. I like em. The 402 they came with was only a 2 bolt main but it took a nice beefy cam and heads, and also took a small shot on the bottle. Made wheel stands possible on a 10" Bias Ply back in the day.
"Slow sweep" Words i never thought id hear on the morris channel. Hallelujah. Im proud of u doing all this. Max love from a long time watcher, complainer and enjoy-er of your channel.
Just an observation from one tradesman to another. I've been working with PVC for over 25 years. The swept tee at the bottom of the pipe is meant for drainage applications where there is no water pressure. The glue sockets are halve the depth of a schedule 40 fitting meant for pressure. That is defiantly the weakest point of your setup. PVC glue is supper strong it's aloud to cure, but that Tee is not meant for pressure, the plastic isn't as thick. I'd keep an eye out for cracks.
I recognize that guy from across the pond. Since I made the switch to Your Dyno, ive had zero issues from my dynocom dyno that was broke down more than it wasn't.
Its hard to have a single dyno cover a huge power range. An eddy current large enough to absorb that kind of power would be huge, and it would have so much inertia start ups and shut downs would be brutal. And as you can see, a water brake designed to absorb several thousand horsepower, does not flow enough water to stay cool with engines that create "low" torque. You will know when the water in the absorber turns to steam... steam doesnt hold back any power... instant rev limiter. Also, bi-directional dynos are very commonplace in automotive engine development. First shift runs the engine on one side, second shift runs the engine on the other side... minimal downtime. Andddd, Alan's car is amazing!
Alan's Monte Is an absolute monster And super super clean I'd hate to say what my 1st car was .....a 500 dollar RX3 with a rotary Yeah I beat it like a rented mule
Steve is the type of guy you want working and building your shit. It doesn't matter what he's doing his brain is just churning data and info. Him hypothesizing with the dyno guy was fun to listen to. Crazy knowledge and you can tell he just loves to figure out and know exactly how each little thing works.
I have literature from the early 70s where Clayton recommended buying an absorber with dual inputs so in the future when engines got even more powerful you could add another absorber to handle the power. They are rated 2500ftlbs individual or 5000ft-lbs in tandem. They are awesome for steady state because they used closed water in the absorbers so the torque load can be held constant. They also use air pressure thru the vent to add dyno load as it is easier to do 1% increase in torque with air than trying to get an ounce or 2 of water into the brake
Super cool seeing the inside details of what it takes to be the best!! We know it’s time and money, first!!! But always enjoy see the details. Great video as always!!! From SME. My local hero!!
Steve, What is your opinion on electric brake based dynos such as your hub dyno? Was there an option to convert to an E brake type? And if so, why did you stick to the water brake type? I assume cost and possibly ease as you are already plumbed for water anyways
The steam bubbles collapsing (imploding) generate BIG localized pressure spikes (This is the principle ulltrasonic cleaners use). Here they are much stronger, and do damage, similar to what detonation does to pistons.
Tuning a PID, is why we joke about that control loop as Pain Inflicting Device. We still use a Schenk dyno with electric motors to load testing of inverters. That new dyno of yours is awesome, nice work there.
Similar to a torque converter, but not exactly. There's no stator in the middle of that absorber to multiply the torque, so it literally is a fluid coupler. That fluid coupler is attached to something stationary which has the dynamometer reading sensors and when calculating the water flow, the absorption rate, and what the sensors are reading, you'll get a more accurate measurement. Lots of math involved.
29:25. THAT VENTS TO GET AIR OUT SO ITS ALL WATER TO ABSORB TEMP. YOU CANT PUT AIR INTO THE VENT YOUR GONNA HOT SPOT THE INSIDES. ALSO YOU CAN COMPRESS AIR THATS WHY ITS ALL VENTED OUT. YOU CAN NOT HAVE AIR IN A WATER COMPRESSING APRATURE
Alan’s car is so dang good! I love that thing, so clean, so put together, and a beast, ridiculously beautiful car! What if you chilled the absorber? Like an MRI machine?
Big diesel engines have specific coolant to combat the "cavitation" that your explaining. It will actually erode the liners from the vibration and explosion inside the cylinder and create these bubbles.
37:00 cavitation actually hammers the metal and breaks it off atom by atom. The cavitation "bubbles" collapse to zero with a small but very intense shock. Soon you have a hole where there used to be metal.
I'm learning instrument controls now. PIDs can be a mofo to get but when you get em it gets easier. I work in a brewery so that valve looks very familiar. We use PIDs for tank levels, temperatures and pressures. When I was asked in my interview what a PID does I related it to a turbo waste gate system.
Love my your dyno stuff, works great on my 902 dyno, Question though, why not use the servo valve on the outlet side, after plumbing in adequate volume capacity, and put a variable static valve on the intake side to control the servo percentage on starting the sweep, at say 70-90%, thus keeping water pressure in the brake, and maybe keep the cavitation down a little. Just a thought. Jostien is a great guy, his customer service is second to none. Enjoy your channel, I don't know how you don't burn yourself out...lol!!
from a fluid dynamics point of view it seems like the water is becoming turbulent/introducing air to give the heat spike your seeing between those certain rmp ranges
So cool! Was anyone watching upstairs where the tank & pumps are to see what’s going on? It doesn’t seem like it’s getting enough supply, which I know you have huge tanks & pumps? Also what was the RPM #? Next to the load dial doing? Big RPM dial said 7500, number next to load percentage dial said 8355? We had issues with an old superflow years back! We had water restrictions because of the iron in the water up here! We used some clear lines to find issues! Good luck man! You don’t need anymore issues! It was nice to see it run 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻! You sure put a whoopin on the ol mule 🫏🫏🫏🫏😜😜😜😜! Making Steam 😜😜😜😜!
That's what I love about BBC because when you floor it you can actually watch your gas gauge move towards empty. It's a thirsty beast at wide open throttle.
cavitation is small bubbles that form when you have a low side and high side which makes microscopic implosions which makes pitting's on the low side. In your case the steam is caused by some air in the system that will cause both symptoms or the unit itself might not have the tolerances it needs.
inertial style dyno vs load bearing dyno, there's also the Engine Dyno (in inertial vs load bearing), or the Chassis dyno, not to mention the hub dyno or the roller dyno. I'm not exact here, but I think the most accurate that I've enountered with the engine in the chassis was the 'mustang dyno' where the dyno puts the car under load of some type, which reduces the actual HP, and TQ level output. Dynojet or dynopack whateve they call it isn't under installed chassis load so its numbers are considerably higher, and likely higher to some degree. When the car is under load, it really comes down to the driver and the conditions at hand. If the card puts out too much HP, it loses traction, and loses the race if it can't get traction before the other driver does. If its perfect conditions, the track is sticky, and humidity is low - you can get very solid numbers on the track - that match the exact numbers on the dyno, but the dyno numbers never translate to skills of the driver - if the driver can't drive... they ain't gonna put the power to the track.... and probably blow up a few things in the process of proving otherwise!
Was the old modulating valve 2 inch? Might need to make it 2 1/2 or 3 inch and increase the size of the outlet line's use thin walled piping instead of small id rubber hoses for more flow and avoid 90s probably shut off the air thats not helping the cavitation making sonic booms creating tiny stars hotter than the sun that will eat that billet up quick are the feed pumps on frequency drives if they are i would check and see if they are running at 60 hertz if they have frequency drives they should have a pid increase the derivative to make it ramp up faster
i was watching a video about the USS New Jersey they explained the cavitation damage on the propellers they said when the bubbles pop near on the prop they damage the props
Reminds me of the Hydrostatic water brakes we used way back in the days of me running a drilling rig here in Okla. Those things could hold back nearly 100,000 lbs or more from falling thru the rig floor when going in the hole. "Memories". LOL
Is the water pressure always at 60psi (4 bars) inside the brake ? If so, it can handle a lot higher temperatures than 190, since it won't boil unless it hits 280-290 fahrenheit. So when it exits the water pressure is "normal", but the drop doesn't change it's temperature. Meaning that if it boils upon exiting doesn't mean that it's too hot inside the brake. There it would be hot, of course, but not even close to boiling.
Cavitation is actually a micro implosion that happens from a fluid pump or impeller whipping air while operating in a liquid. Had a customer with a 40 Hp irrigation pump for a golf course they couldn’t get to prime. There's 10 miles of plumbing to the sprinkler heads, and the pump sucks from a pond. They started the motor with everything wide open. Which meant there was 0 resistance on the pump that’s trying to pressurize 10 miles of plumbing. The pump sounded like it was full of gravel and got hot enough to burn the paint off the volute. I showed up, closed the outlet ball valve to 15% choked the pump off to add resistance to the impeller. Once it filled all the lines I opened the outlet ball valve up and she was silent. 👍🤘
As hot rodding gets more electronics, it's good to see open source getting used. I wish there was more open source powertrain management hardware and software.
This is one of the few channels that I never fast forward the video, because I'm afraid and miss something interesting..
Thanks Steve and Kyle for educating us..
Make sure you share it 😁
Helps me out
Fast Forwarding can also over-rev the engine.
I've seen Alan's Monte doing the Drag-n-Drive deal....and he's a good dude! Always seemed to be in a good mood even when things weren't going well which is a sign of a class act. Beautiful car too!
Steve, this video was just awesome . I was 100% engaged the entire time. I could've watched another hour of it easily . This is how you make great content to a target audience . Perfection.
Make sure you share it 😁
That Monte Carlo is gorgeous.
zero doubt about it!
It’s the coolest car!
Congrats to whoever won sugar momma! Man thats life changing!
I love the plastic ABS Y connector among all the stainless 2000 psi braided lines...lol.
cavitation bubbles can produce so much energy when they collapse that sometimes it emits flashes of light, called sonoluminescence, so of course it'll erode metals.
Bubbles form during cavitation. As the pressure in the pump increases, those bubbles collapse in the form of an implosion - equally as violent as an explosion. The implosion causes shockwaves to travel through the liquid and hit the impeller causing mechanical damage.
Almost there! At the trailing side of a blade you can get such an under pressure that it creates a little steam bubble. That's when the pressure is locally so low that the boiling point reaches the ambient water temperature and little steam bubbles form. When those bubbles collapse they _directly_ impinge on the trailing surface of a blade. That's what causes cavitation erosion.
(It can also occur in, say, gear oil pumps. So it's not just in water, or on the low pressure side of blades. It can also happen where gear teeth in fluid separate.)
Same thing that happens to ship propellers.
It happens in the coolant on the outside of an engines cylinder sleeves too
@@Hydrazine1000 Few weeks ago did see video of SBC oilpump with clear cover. Damn there was alot of bubbles and cavitation.
Cavitation will only occur in the absorber if not enough suction pressure (feed water pressure) is maintained on it. You must keep the water in a liquid state as you add HP (heat) to it. As the absorber temp rises the supply pressure needs to rise and stay above the boiling point of the fluid. The minimum flow required can be determined by...........HP x 5.5 divided by the Allowable Temp Rise of the fluid.
Didn't they say they had plumbed compressed air into the absorber? Bubble implosion associated with cavitation is typical of a poor suction condition resulting in vaporization, but the independent introduction of air could induce the same result once it reaches the high pressure zones of the absorber.
So they have low volume on the feed?
It's cavitation burns you're thinking of. The supersonic implosion of the bubbles erode the surface. Happens to propellers on powerboats sometimes as well.
Extremely high temperature when that happens too
and also, the same basic physics behind ultrasonic cleaners
The Mantis Shrimp utilizes the Cavitation/Implosion phenomena to unleash a deadly blow with its front appendages.
The cavitation bubbles formed and then popped release a shockwave that can crack mollusks shells, break glass, and, apparently damage dynamometer torque absorber components.
@@hkguitar1984 Steve really needs to follow our advice and evict the mantis shrimp from his well
@@JamesTK 🤣👍
That new absorberDyno is going to be awesome once tuned in!! Nice!!
That Monte Carlo is stunning! What an absolute beaut
"....parts I don't make. Yet."
You just gotta love how Steve drops hints and is constantly expanding the shop's abilities. He surely is always investing in the future of engine building... 😎😎🤘🤘
Stainless steel, machined beautiful butterfly valve > Hardware store PVC Drain pipe > AN Fitting hoses. Love it!
That Monte Carlo is an absolute sensation! :)
I’ve been subscribed for years since you were at 11k subscribers have never watched one of your videos and not learned something love the videos Steve
Thanks
The amount of technical information in Steve Morris videos is wonderful. I love that you always are pushing forward, trying to make everything as perfect as possible. Keep up the grind Steve, your work ethic and technical knowledge is second to none, and the end product shows exactly that.
“Parts that I don’t make……..yet 😎”
Fantastic stuff Steve, thanks for taking us all along.
Normally we see Steve testing an engine with a Dyno, today we see Steve test a Dyno with an Engine. Honestly though, it's not the first time.. XP
He's testing your dyno with an engine too so it's even better. Too bad we can't take it home...
It's backwards day🙂
old dyno give away!
I would love just to have your dyno motor as my motor.
The brake is just a simple pump. It will only boil the water if there isn't enough pressure on the water to kept it in the fluid state. Nothing wrong with the water getting hot (very hot) if enough pressure is maintained on the fluid to keep it in a fluid state (no boiling) so long as the temp is within the limits of the absorber. Refer to a publication called 'Cameron Hydraulics' to understand the pressure / tempreture curve required to keep the water in a liquid state at any tempreture or pressure.
The dyno absorber needs a " Boost fixes everything , or breaks everything " sticker .
We had that problem with water ring vacuum pumps. The end plates would get scalded from cavitation that by outgassing of the water that created bubbles that would cut into the end plates and rotors.
We installed water vapor gas eliminators on the top of the end-plates, and it eliminated the problem. By allowing small amounts of air into the end-plates it passed the bubbles through and out the exhaust side of the pump.
Allan's Monte Carlo is one sweet ride with power to boot... 😊
The big block that was in my 68 Camaro was out of a 72 SE Monte... Very cool car. I like em. The 402 they came with was only a 2 bolt main but it took a nice beefy cam and heads, and also took a small shot on the bottle. Made wheel stands possible on a 10" Bias Ply back in the day.
"Slow sweep" Words i never thought id hear on the morris channel. Hallelujah. Im proud of u doing all this. Max love from a long time watcher, complainer and enjoy-er of your channel.
Having been through industrial engine dyno and truck dyno issues: having on site reps is reassuring. Dynos are not without issues.
Awesome how whilst your in reflection or assessing a scenario, an element of viewer involvement overwhelm’s my interest…🤔
Top Job Jim Bob….🛠
Just an observation from one tradesman to another. I've been working with PVC for over 25 years. The swept tee at the bottom of the pipe is meant for drainage applications where there is no water pressure. The glue sockets are halve the depth of a schedule 40 fitting meant for pressure. That is defiantly the weakest point of your setup. PVC glue is supper strong it's aloud to cure, but that Tee is not meant for pressure, the plastic isn't as thick. I'd keep an eye out for cracks.
Thank you Steve, Val , Kyle and the rest of the employees at SME for all you do for me and the rest of your customers. ❤
I'm sure that you'll get it figured out. I haven't seen you not do so yet. As Always, May God Bless you and yours! 😇
The digital remote hanging scale on the torque arm is cool.
I recognize that guy from across the pond. Since I made the switch to Your Dyno, ive had zero issues from my dynocom dyno that was broke down more than it wasn't.
The damage from cavitation happens when the micro bubbles collapse and act like a hammer hitting the metal.
Like mantis shrimp swimming in there lol
@@1320wolf
Killer analogy!
Steve i love the amount of work you put in to just making the videos for every one here on your channel.
thank you so much.
Thanks
Very nice. I see you got a new accelerator handle!!
That monte is my literal dream car, colours and everything, 3000hp just make it that much better
Its hard to have a single dyno cover a huge power range. An eddy current large enough to absorb that kind of power would be huge, and it would have so much inertia start ups and shut downs would be brutal. And as you can see, a water brake designed to absorb several thousand horsepower, does not flow enough water to stay cool with engines that create "low" torque. You will know when the water in the absorber turns to steam... steam doesnt hold back any power... instant rev limiter.
Also, bi-directional dynos are very commonplace in automotive engine development. First shift runs the engine on one side, second shift runs the engine on the other side... minimal downtime.
Andddd, Alan's car is amazing!
We call the dyno mule a master. It’s the good unit or control. I run and maintain a transmission dyno
Absolutely love your channel.
Whats best is all the information you share. Keep it up
Thanks
Alan's Monte
Is an absolute monster
And super super clean
I'd hate to say what my 1st car was
.....a 500 dollar RX3 with a rotary
Yeah
I beat it like a rented mule
RX3 worth megabux now. Be proud of that first car its one of the best cars ever.
I had a 1993 Nissan D21 with a ka24e. Miss that little truck, most reliable thing I ever managed blowing up. 😂
I love both of you guys! I use Your Dyno stuff as well and its amazing. Such a great product with such great support!
Steve is the type of guy you want working and building your shit. It doesn't matter what he's doing his brain is just churning data and info. Him hypothesizing with the dyno guy was fun to listen to. Crazy knowledge and you can tell he just loves to figure out and know exactly how each little thing works.
Thanks for bringin' us !
That Monte is one of the nicest, cleanest cars I had ever seen!
He is the man! Set up my Dyno ect and helped me threw all the crap
Thanks Steve great content
I have literature from the early 70s where Clayton recommended buying an absorber with dual inputs so in the future when engines got even more powerful you could add another absorber to handle the power. They are rated 2500ftlbs individual or 5000ft-lbs in tandem. They are awesome for steady state because they used closed water in the absorbers so the torque load can be held constant. They also use air pressure thru the vent to add dyno load as it is easier to do 1% increase in torque with air than trying to get an ounce or 2 of water into the brake
Super cool seeing the inside details of what it takes to be the best!!
We know it’s time and money, first!!!
But always enjoy see the details.
Great video as always!!!
From SME. My local hero!!
That's awesome 👌 good luck on your dyno...keep living the dream ✨️
Steve always on an adventure to improve everything!😄👍
Very interesting dyno information. Alan's Monte Carlo is " perfection " .! Many thanks.
Thats a beautiful Monte Carlo
That Monte Carlo is a beautiful machine. Wow. Rowdy too. Big time.
I'm a bike guy and i love this channel! Thanks for all the PROFESSIONAL, awesome content Steve!
Steve, What is your opinion on electric brake based dynos such as your hub dyno? Was there an option to convert to an E brake type? And if so, why did you stick to the water brake type? I assume cost and possibly ease as you are already plumbed for water anyways
Problem, so far going eddy currents
Maybe someday
@@stevemorrisracing, So you are saying the e brake types are not as good yet? Or is it just too big for now? hence the use in hub dynos
The steam bubbles collapsing (imploding) generate BIG localized pressure spikes (This is the principle ulltrasonic cleaners use). Here they are much stronger, and do damage, similar to what detonation does to pistons.
Awesome Thanks for sharing, love it can't wait to see more.
Tuning a PID, is why we joke about that control loop as Pain Inflicting Device.
We still use a Schenk dyno with electric motors to load testing of inverters.
That new dyno of yours is awesome, nice work there.
Improving is always a plus ! Hell yeah 💪🏻
Similar to a torque converter, but not exactly. There's no stator in the middle of that absorber to multiply the torque, so it literally is a fluid coupler.
That fluid coupler is attached to something stationary which has the dynamometer reading sensors and when calculating the water flow, the absorption rate, and what the sensors are reading, you'll get a more accurate measurement. Lots of math involved.
Really gorgeous car, Alan. Very well done👍🏻👍🏻
Super sweet monte carlo!
I've had a 76, 79 and an 84. Always loved the 70-72.
Thanks for the education Steve! Would be cool to add a Mopar Pistol Grip shifter knob to your throttle handle.
Nice video ! I am thinkin you are thinking about Cavitation Erosion ! Most common on Cummins engines without proper coolant !
29:25. THAT VENTS TO GET AIR OUT SO ITS ALL WATER TO ABSORB TEMP. YOU CANT PUT AIR INTO THE VENT YOUR GONNA HOT SPOT THE INSIDES. ALSO YOU CAN COMPRESS AIR THATS WHY ITS ALL VENTED OUT. YOU CAN NOT HAVE AIR IN A WATER COMPRESSING APRATURE
Alan’s car is so dang good! I love that thing, so clean, so put together, and a beast, ridiculously beautiful car! What if you chilled the absorber? Like an MRI machine?
Big diesel engines have specific coolant to combat the "cavitation" that your explaining.
It will actually erode the liners from the vibration and explosion inside the cylinder and create these bubbles.
37:00 cavitation actually hammers the metal and breaks it off atom by atom. The cavitation "bubbles" collapse to zero with a small but very intense shock. Soon you have a hole where there used to be metal.
I'm learning instrument controls now. PIDs can be a mofo to get but when you get em it gets easier.
I work in a brewery so that valve looks very familiar. We use PIDs for tank levels, temperatures and pressures.
When I was asked in my interview what a PID does I related it to a turbo waste gate system.
STEVE what happened to GRETTA?
U have to replace her in the bottom left window..😂😂😂😂😂😂 🎉🎉🎉
I will
@@stevemorrisracing
Did part of the blower hit her in the head?
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Love that Monte! Beautiful car
Love my your dyno stuff, works great on my 902 dyno, Question though, why not use the servo valve on the outlet side, after plumbing in adequate volume capacity, and put a variable static valve on the intake side to control the servo percentage on starting the sweep, at say 70-90%, thus keeping water pressure in the brake, and maybe keep the cavitation down a little. Just a thought. Jostien is a great guy, his customer service is second to none. Enjoy your channel, I don't know how you don't burn yourself out...lol!!
It’s the same thing that happens to propellers on boats, it’s called cavitation, and they are mini explosions that break down the tips
Nothing is ever simple there’s always something that makes u scratch your head
I'm all about this particular segment! KUDO'S Steve!
Respectfully, Seth
from a fluid dynamics point of view it seems like the water is becoming turbulent/introducing air to give the heat spike your seeing between those certain rmp ranges
only 3008 to the wheels? phhh lol my 98 sierra would take that car on the street. 280 at the crank baby
Slow the water down so it has time to absorb the heat.
Fast water or pressured water cools less than slower, Hence thermostats the other way !
That Monte is sweet, when I was a kid or neighbor had a 72 with a sweet 427, always wanted one..
So cool! Was anyone watching upstairs where the tank & pumps are to see what’s going on? It doesn’t seem like it’s getting enough supply, which I know you have huge tanks & pumps? Also what was the RPM #? Next to the load dial doing? Big RPM dial said 7500, number next to load percentage dial said 8355? We had issues with an old superflow years back! We had water restrictions because of the iron in the water up here! We used some clear lines to find issues! Good luck man! You don’t need anymore issues! It was nice to see it run 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻! You sure put a whoopin on the ol mule 🫏🫏🫏🫏😜😜😜😜! Making Steam 😜😜😜😜!
That's what I love about BBC because when you floor it you can actually watch your gas gauge move towards empty. It's a thirsty beast at wide open throttle.
That dyno valve is Alfa Laval with Tri clover fittings
cavitation is small bubbles that form when you have a low side and high side which makes microscopic implosions which makes pitting's on the low side. In your case the steam is caused by some air in the system that will cause both symptoms or the unit itself might not have the tolerances it needs.
I ❤ the northen Norwegian accent.
Thanks for showing us
What about injecting glycerine into the coolant as it get to boiling or mixing it into the water before the absorber just a thought great video.
inertial style dyno vs load bearing dyno, there's also the Engine Dyno (in inertial vs load bearing), or the Chassis dyno, not to mention the hub dyno or the roller dyno.
I'm not exact here, but I think the most accurate that I've enountered with the engine in the chassis was the 'mustang dyno' where the dyno puts the car under load of some type, which reduces the actual HP, and TQ level output. Dynojet or dynopack whateve they call it isn't under installed chassis load so its numbers are considerably higher, and likely higher to some degree.
When the car is under load, it really comes down to the driver and the conditions at hand. If the card puts out too much HP, it loses traction, and loses the race if it can't get traction before the other driver does.
If its perfect conditions, the track is sticky, and humidity is low - you can get very solid numbers on the track - that match the exact numbers on the dyno, but the dyno numbers never translate to skills of the driver - if the driver can't drive... they ain't gonna put the power to the track.... and probably blow up a few things in the process of proving otherwise!
PID= proportional integral derivative, a equation to make predictions and adjustments. The RPM of the engine being controlled by the valve on the dyno
Was the old modulating valve 2 inch? Might need to make it 2 1/2 or 3 inch and increase the size of the outlet line's use thin walled piping instead of small id rubber hoses for more flow and avoid 90s probably shut off the air thats not helping the cavitation making sonic booms creating tiny stars hotter than the sun that will eat that billet up quick are the feed pumps on frequency drives if they are i would check and see if they are running at 60 hertz if they have frequency drives they should have a pid increase the derivative to make it ramp up faster
i was watching a video about the USS New Jersey they explained the cavitation damage on the propellers they said when the bubbles pop near on the prop they damage the props
Steve Morris presents: "The World's Loudest Water Heater"
all dyno brakes get hot
Reminds me of the Hydrostatic water brakes we used way back in the days of me running a drilling rig here in Okla. Those things could hold back nearly 100,000 lbs or more from falling thru the rig floor when going in the hole. "Memories". LOL
Is the water pressure always at 60psi (4 bars) inside the brake ? If so, it can handle a lot higher temperatures than 190, since it won't boil unless it hits 280-290 fahrenheit. So when it exits the water pressure is "normal", but the drop doesn't change it's temperature. Meaning that if it boils upon exiting doesn't mean that it's too hot inside the brake. There it would be hot, of course, but not even close to boiling.
The Monte Carlo is beautiful even if you don't like them.
Cavitation is actually a micro implosion that happens from a fluid pump or impeller whipping air while operating in a liquid.
Had a customer with a 40 Hp irrigation pump for a golf course they couldn’t get to prime.
There's 10 miles of plumbing to the sprinkler heads, and the pump sucks from a pond.
They started the motor with everything wide open. Which meant there was 0 resistance on the pump that’s trying to pressurize 10 miles of plumbing. The pump sounded like it was full of gravel and got hot enough to burn the paint off the volute.
I showed up, closed the outlet ball valve to 15% choked the pump off to add resistance to the impeller. Once it filled all the lines I opened the outlet ball valve up and she was silent. 👍🤘
Fingers crossed this one doesn't snap, otherwise you'll have to stop making so much power.
I’m pretty sure it was the flywheel bolts shearing that tore everything up on Hammonds engine! 🤷🤷🤷🤷
Reduce power 😱😱😱😱😱
The effect is cavitation and that creates micro bubbles of plasma that are hot enough to erode Aluminum or in the case of Props brass.
That Monte Carlo is beautiful.
Thanks + would like to see the shop rebuild after the blowup, what spec the new walls and glass were etc.
As hot rodding gets more electronics, it's good to see open source getting used. I wish there was more open source powertrain management hardware and software.