+John Ward Hey John, I was wondering how you removed the diffuser on that bulb? I want to use the 10.5 W varient in enclosed downlights which already have diffusers. I was hoping that with the diffusers removed, accumulation of heat close to the LED chips would be reduced hence lengthening their lifespan. The bulbs should even appear brighter.
+Sean Jeremiah Prised off using a screwdriver, some damage was inevitable. Also consider that many of these lamps don't have isolated power supplies, so with the front removed, live parts will be exposed.
+John Ward I see. Thanks for the pointers John. I guess prying it open while it's hot could help loosen the glue. I could try to seal the live contacts with liquid tape but I trust that no one would touch the bulbs once they're in the downlights unless they need to be replaced.
This is from the Philips CorePro range which is their economy offering. As LED lamp prices have dropped by around 70% in 4 years so has the quality. This is a good and bad thing for the consumer. LEDs are now cheaper to buy but are of inferior quality.
This is one area where the cheap Chinese designed lamps are better than the properly made branded ones... If a cheap passive component fails its generally very easy to get them going again. I guess there is some regulation against wrapping a power switcher in kapton tape and leaving it dangling inside the bulb housing :-)
Why would they bother sealing up the entire base like that? Were they trying to hide their proprietary design, back in the days when they thought it mattered?
John, we want to do some teardowns at work. What equipment do you use to record your teardowns that gives you the good depth of field all the way down to the small parts on the circuit board?
The main thing is a lot of light, so the camera aperture can be very small which will provide a much greater depth of field. Also neds a camera with adjustable aperture, such as a DSLR or camcorder, rather than a webcam or similar.
I bought the 10.5 watt Phillips LED Bulb, Slim Style Dimmable, 9-pack for less than $27 from Amazon over one year ago. I use 6 of the 9 LED's about 8 hours in the evening. The other 3 are on 24/7 because I lack a natural light source in those rooms. I have many negative comments about Phillips but I have had a good experience with their lighting products.
Going by someone else's teardown of another Philips LED lamp, you might find the driver PCB is partly wrapped in Kapton tape which makes the encapsulation a lot easier to remove.
John In the uk we have bayonet and ES LEDs at 220v 13w = 100w there are bayonet to ES adapters and using one gives a 50% chance of making the thread live in a ES LED bulb QUESTION the thread in a ES should not be live for safety but if a bayonet to ES adapter made it live would a ES LED bulb still work as it should
***** Thank you for the reply What would you say is the max watts vs heat and bulb life, would 4 LED bulbs of 11w (75w) be better than 3 of 13w (100w) would the 2w be enough of a drop to give it a longer life (i was thinking of getting a 3x or 4x bayonet to ES adapter
i suspect they die from inrush current as the DC side capacitor charges up, stressing the input fuse resistor/choke. so on/off cycles are their nemesis, not length of time/LED heat death it seems.
+John Ward | 75W actually, this Panasonic 806 lumen warm colour LED bulb packaging says 806 lumens is equivalent to a 75W incandescent. A 60W deadcandescent spotlight bulb was replaced with an 806 lumen Philips 9.5W LED bulb (no, not the same one in the video. But the ratings might be the same) a few weeks ago and I can say, the LED bulb may be a little bit too bright for the bathroom.
I have an LED lamp that failed. It was rated at 5 watts with five LEDs. The LEDs are on a metal plate which is screwed to a fairly substantual heatsink. The power supply has a transformer, transistor, IC, and electroletic capacitor. The LEDs themselves are still working and I am running them from a bench power supply.
not sure if the comments have asked yet but, is there a way to get enough information easily about the smd led's in this built to build a conversion battery powered system for it?
Doazic I wonder how many of these has been tested to see if it lasts the specified amount of hours it should? Will newer versions still last as long? Does any body remember the original CFL's that could last over 20 Years?
***** That's Ok but when every one has switched over to LED lamps in a couple of years will they still last 15000 hours, or will their life span start tp shrink the way CFL lamps did and incandescent lamps did LOL?
Coolkeys2009 CFLs may well last for the claimed number of hours but their light output will have dropped substantially. IME even branded lamps like Sylvania, GE and Philips would drop to around 2/3rds in a couple of years of dusk to bedtime use.
I purchased an LED lightbulb just like this one a super cheap brand that I will not even name here. It lasted a little over five days, and just died. The metal shell construction is identical to the Philips bulb that was shown, and I managed to remove the internal circuit board by sawing off the dome on top and the screw connector on the bottom with a hacksaw blade. I broke off all the plastic from around the metal can on the base, and shining a light inside I saw that the board was stuck to the can with a generous glob of silicone adhesive. That was why the board was resisting being pulled out of the can. I snipped off the adhesive and cut the wires connecting to the LED board. I bent back the soft aluminum with a pair of pliers, and the board just slid right out. The reason the bulb had failed so quickly? A 10 uf 50 volt capacitor on the power supply board had self destructed: it was bloated almost beyond recognition. The power supply was based on the bp2326a pfc buck converter chip. It looked surprisingly well designed and made, and if the manufacturer hadn't cheaped out and used rubbish chinese electrolytic capacitors, no doubt it would still be working today. PS I salvaged two inductors from the board that will come in handy for future projects, so it wasn't a total loss!
i got 14.5w Osram bulb that stopped working after few days, i cut open the plastic bulb and tossed it.and mine opens easily and only held by 2 pointy contacts and 2 screws(glue also but i pryed it open). one of them was loose so i bent a little the base so it can hold the pointy prong properly. it works now but its too damn bright. and is it even dangerous to use it like that? can something burn? or the plastic bulb is just for aesthetics and prevent short circuit?
Those LED are connected in series so if one goes out the rest wii not work. Putting jump wire on the bad one will make the bulb work again, slightly brighter than before.
I have a 5 watt led bulb, that gives out 55 watts of lumens, I want to make a rechrechargable battrry bank to hook it up to, solar that iis, so my questioquestion is, if the bulb iis 5 watts, and a standard 1.2v double as battery has about 3 watts in it , two should make 6 watts. Shouldnt that be enough to power the bub, its obvious thathat the bulbs resistor and capacitor are made for 120/220 current, so there may lie my problm, I thought since it consumed 5 watts a 9 volt battery would light it up , but doesn't work, so heres my question, how many 9 volt or As batteries do I need to light it up, tia
Dear John, someone asked me what type of LED is brightest in the world. I answered Cree type of LED as I know very little. I only know of types SMT, Cree brand which i think is COB type of LED . Cheers
We almost need a new DC standard for home lighting, something like 48v, then LED bulbs could literally be a bunch of LEDs in series rated to operate at that voltage standard with a current limiting resistor and that's it. You would have a redundant 48v psu/breaker panel at the electrical panel that would feed all the DC circuits. Sure, the LEDs last forever... but the cheap PSUs they put in them don't. That's how they get you.
+Red Squirrel The problem of that would be have to wire separatly just for lighting with wires much thicker than with 230V AC! This would be much more expensive, but it would be possible! Instead you could just buy LED Lamps with discrete converter(transformer)!
The power supply should be built into the lighting fixture with a standard DC voltage, then all that is needed is LEDs connected in series. The bulbs could be very cheap and last a very long time as long as they don't build crappy power supplies into the fixtures.
It probably wouldn't, 1MM T&E is rated for 16A. 16 * 48 = 768W. Let's say every light fitting has a 13W LED bulb (100W Incandescent equivalent). That would allow 59 bulbs per circuit assuming a perfect 1.0 Power Factor (which it would have if you're only using LEDs and an inrushn / current limiting resistor and no SMPS / Capacitive Dropper).
I always wondered why lamp holders have a double insulated symbol on them, yet the actual lamps do not. Surely the lamp is the appliance, and the lamp holder is just how it is connected to the electricity supply, the same as a socket.
Philips, "let's make things better" used to be their slogan, now its lets make things break after 2 years and cost 20 x as much as a 100 watt incandescent, got several of the ES in the 5.5w flavor of the identical shape in your video all dead, all leds work on external supply, all integral psu faults.
They made it so sturdy because they learned their lesson with CFL where people were getting them repaired for 0.5$ in my country and with bulk of junk parts from all those broken CFLs you could mesh up any parts to make them work. And I think they gonna remain expensive till all those CFL factories are shifted to LED production. I had both good and bad experience with Phillips LED bulbs due to pure ignorance on my part, I bought a 12W LED bulb for 10$ and it was a nice upgrade over 30 watt CFL with more brightness and following suit I bought two 7W for 14$ and when I put them in room to replace two 23 watt CFL they were less brighter and then I checked to find out its lumes were less than CFL :( I still find the Fluorescent tube lights superior to CFL , we had two of them last for more than twenty years ( avg use of 4 hrs a day, and secret sauce was a 200W incandescent bulb in series to supply mains to tube light )
Mine started flickering when if got cold outside. About 5deg C. It would stop flickering after a few minutes. I took mine apart. I had a feeling the capacitor was going bad and I was right. The bottom blew out of the capacitor.
Philips lamps will always be too expensive for most people to buy. LED lamps are now readily available at around £1 for 5 to 9 Watts in UK shops. I've been using these for over a year without any problems, pay more if you want to.
That "black gunky resin" just so happens to be silicone. And its sole purpose is to provide some shock and vibration resilience, whilst preventing moisture ingress.
I love the way the advertice those highly priced lamps, like they lasted "forever" and super green, but no one will hit its goal in hors, pure BS. They last the same as the older CFL, even when leds are supposed to "last almost "forever", they fail at in the power supply, so what the point of the marketing people, you low you bill a bit, yes, but this ones are expensive too. Who is making or saving money ????????????. Cheers
+38911bytefree The problem is that they've been shrinking these things for aesthetics, going beyond what's reasonable. Early on you would have noticed these bulbs having masses of heatsink fins to keep things cool, but to make them look like regular bulbs, obviously they've created a flawed design, even insulating the metal body with a plastic cladding. The lower watt led bulbs which don't have much chance of getting hot do last a long time.
The bulb is made this way supposedly only for the purpose of reasonably cheap manufacturing, and I'm absolutely sure it's unintentional that you can't easily take it apart to fix it. Yes, Sheldon, sarcasm.
Just for the record you can now get a Great Value 9w 800 lumen non-dimmable bulb at Walmart for $2. I cut one open and it is built better than the one in this video.
Hope ours doesn't go I bought the 6w version on the landing. If I can remember correctly it cost me £6 from toolstation about 10 month ago. It isn't used very much just for when we go upstairs when it's dark, when installed it was weird seeing a light bulb at full brightness and a very bright one haha we when through 2 fluorescent compacts both philips in 1 year the first one was a philips eco tone which when they get older the phosphor burns inside which causes the tubes to deteriorate and gets dimmer I can see this happening after ohhhh hmm about 10 years of use well that when we got the eco tones originally. I remember the price in tesco then around £12 each, (memories before led) haha So then I replaced it with the newer eco tone it was better but still needed a warm up so it got taken out and replaced with the led bulbs I tend to go with philips for my bulbs I'm affiliated with them. Even philips have a good range of street lighting luminaires such as the luma, iridium, citysoul etc I'm thinking buying a philips coreline t8 fluorescent led bulb for the shed in the next few weeks as they are very good colour rendering and excellent efficiency. Sorry for the waffle waffle mate :D Great video John keep up the great work.
Paint the base, the white plastic part, black with a sharpie, haven't lost one that I have done this to yet. Black is supposed to radiate heat away better, and it's a cheap experiment. Someone with an infrared camera should test and see if it makes them run cooler
Yes I have been very disappointed with Phillips. They used to be quality but now I avoid them as they just don't last. That lifetime they print on the box seems a big load of fantasy.
The name 'Phillips' means nothing these days. Every LED bulb I've bought from Aldi are still functioning perfectly. Even little cheapy low wattage plastic 1s I've bought years ago are STILL working!
and this is so called eco light, so many hazardous substances used to produce this, and how much energy was used to produce, can anybody calculate this? I do not believe that this is more eco friendly light source than traditional or halogen bulb, I won't be surprised to see how it turns out that tradidional low cost bulbs and renewable energy is more eco friendly.
+deviceundertest This is NOTHING compared to a CFL. I just pulled the ballast out of one to find 1 transformer, two inductors, NINE capacitors, four diodes, one zener diode, four resistors and a transistor... that doesnt include the phosphor, glass, plastic and mercury in the rest of the bulb.
*Sigh* So many LED lamp failures are caused by the LEDs being run at above their allowable operating temp. Even the "good" lamps like these are poorly designed!
+Benjamin „Ozias“ Esposti Well...the lamp industry once started a little thing called "obsolescence" when they engineered the wolfram lamp to last for exactly 1000 hours instead of 10000 or more hours! Do you think they will abandon this behavior just when a new generation of lighting techonlogy comes out? This how they made and still make huge amounts of money and grow to virulent multinational enterprises that rule the world nowadays!
People around here are saying is planed obsolescence. It's not entirely true. They made the100w bulb last 1000 ours because of cost. You can make a 100 bulb last 10000 hours if you readuce the current thru and the temperature of the filament. So let's try an analogy here. If you put 2 light bulbs in series, they will last year's, but there is a downside. Higher cost, lesser and oranger light, and also lower efficiency because you producing more heat then light. So you can make a "100 W light bulb" that last more out of 4 100w bulbs if you put 2 in series in paralel with the other 2 in series. It will draw almost the same 100w (lower filament temperature means lower resistance and higher current.. this actually means more then 100w) but this is 4 time the cost, produce less light and is less efficient. The same thing is with LED bulbs. They could make a LED bulb that last 10000 hours and have same light output. But it will have to be mutch bigger beacause will need a bigger heatsink (it can also maybe need a fan inside for cooling) and of course alot more individually LEDs. But that thing will cost like 50 pounds or more. Thats like 500 to 1000 pouns for changing all the light bulbs in a house. So it's possible to make a light bulb that last more but is not that practical. and sorry for bad English. I'm not native. and im writing this on a phone. Have a nice day everyone! :)
wondering why you only have 220 v and no 110 v , where i live we run a wire from one of the 220 v wires threw the item and then to a earth ground and get 110 v
That's another standard got ya. John what happens, the resin and rubber coating over the power supply is supposed to stop moisture ingress which will destroy the power supply, but it doesn't work, moisture will still get in eventually and the moisture now is trapped actually accelerating corrosion. Also now even more heat gets trapped around the components on the power supply causing failure. Also the constant heat cycling of the lamp actually draws in moisture. The idea of building a power supply into a led assembly is a FAIL, the correct way is to create a standard say 12v dc use nothing but a few small dropping resistors in the led arrays and use a separate power supply, all easily repairable or replaceable, including replacement of failed leds, so there is no waste.
The 'LYM ENTRY RANGE' on the LED PCB could mean it was made by this company: lymlighting.gmc.globalmarket.com/ Those five-pad footprints in the middle seem to be for another two LEDs and I wonder what the unpopulated links JP1 & 3 do.
So here we are, us, the top engineering types, (apparently) outengineered by the Chinese, reminds me a bit of those folks in WWII (a good British accent helps the imagery) , breaking open electronic boxes from downed Heinkels and Messerschmitts. I realize it is not so much the engineering, as producing stuff so cheaply that we just can't compete. We've been HAD! Because now what? anyone????
They add not to hang upside down in a contained enclosure. User error- if you vented it properly - would have gotten more life.. If a fan is there too-- + life.
kinda strange, i bought 7 bulbs for my house and they all already burned out. 1 bulb i changed 5 times now... all in all have them for 6 months. i wonder if any one knows, is 20000 and 30000 hours life estimated time is a made up number to sell us crap?
The rated hours is usually the time by which 50% of a test sample under certain conditions has failed. Actual use may be very different due to how/where they are installed, ambient temperature/humidity, how often they are switched, etc.
I see, Thank you for fast reply. i realized why they burn out so fast.(from your answer) my led bulbs are used for 14 hours every day, it's hot in my house. i guess this is what kill them off so fast. still though i jumped the hype train and covered my house with them. sadly i replace them faster than i did with CFL bulbs (not by much) and if i think about it... bulbs that survived the longest are the old tech incandescent bulbs. i used to replace them once a year or year and a half. Led bulbs i replace every 4-6 months and CFL i replaced every 8 to 10 months. (really hate the CFL bulbs they stink when they burn out.)i hope some day they invent a real 25000 hour bulb no matter the environment condition.
Cool teardown. It's cool to see what's inside and makes them tick! I review & benchmark all types of bulbs on my channel! Please stop by and let me know what you think!
This would have been a simple teardown using a dremel tool to slice the metal part open to find the culprit. Please re-do your video with this new knowledge.
Did it really need >11 minutes to say "I got it apart and found that the LEDs still work so the driver electronics (which I couldn't get at) is what failed"?
Not an actual teardown. You should have cut the base with an angle grinder and removed the "black stuff" from the PCB to analyze it. Rookie mistake and I am thinking of unsubscribing.
Always wondered what they look like on the inside. Very interesting, thanks John!
i did not expect you to give up so easily..
You would say that wouldn't you makes you feel good!
+John Ward Hey John, I was wondering how you removed the diffuser on that bulb?
I want to use the 10.5 W varient in enclosed downlights which already have diffusers. I was hoping that with the diffusers removed, accumulation of heat close to the LED chips would be reduced hence lengthening their lifespan. The bulbs should even appear brighter.
+Sean Jeremiah Prised off using a screwdriver, some damage was inevitable. Also consider that many of these lamps don't have isolated power supplies, so with the front removed, live parts will be exposed.
+John Ward I see. Thanks for the pointers John. I guess prying it open while it's hot could help loosen the glue. I could try to seal the live contacts with liquid tape but I trust that no one would touch the bulbs once they're in the downlights unless they need to be replaced.
This is from the Philips CorePro range which is their economy offering. As LED lamp prices have dropped by around 70% in 4 years so has the quality. This is a good and bad thing for the consumer.
LEDs are now cheaper to buy but are of inferior quality.
I really like the authentic color on this board, most cheap ones have this pink/red tint to them, while this actually looked like a incadescent bulb.
This is one area where the cheap Chinese designed lamps are better than the properly made branded ones... If a cheap passive component fails its generally very easy to get them going again. I guess there is some regulation against wrapping a power switcher in kapton tape and leaving it dangling inside the bulb housing :-)
Why would they bother sealing up the entire base like that? Were they trying to hide their proprietary design, back in the days when they thought it mattered?
Ovo je odlična prezentacija vrhunskog Philips-a
John, we want to do some teardowns at work. What equipment do you use to record your teardowns that gives you the good depth of field all the way down to the small parts on the circuit board?
The main thing is a lot of light, so the camera aperture can be very small which will provide a much greater depth of field. Also neds a camera with adjustable aperture, such as a DSLR or camcorder, rather than a webcam or similar.
What you recommend led home bulb ? Phillips or Osram ?
@Nidula Dulein nice !! Osram for the win
I bought the 10.5 watt Phillips LED Bulb, Slim Style Dimmable, 9-pack for less than $27 from Amazon over one year ago. I use 6 of the 9 LED's about 8 hours in the evening. The other 3 are on 24/7 because I lack a natural light source in those rooms. I have many negative comments about Phillips but I have had a good experience with their lighting products.
Going by someone else's teardown of another Philips LED lamp, you might find the driver PCB is partly wrapped in Kapton tape which makes the encapsulation a lot easier to remove.
They don't make them that good anymore looks well made thanks John
If you twisted both wires together and soldered a wire to the point in the board where you made contact would you be able to run it of ac
***** Yes. Would still need something limit the current.
***** Thank you ,that's what I thought
+MrBuck295 no leds need dc at much lower voltage
Hello , great video. You could put another power supply for this led?
What did you use to pry the diffuser off the top?
I'm kinda wondering if you could take a can opener to it? I might well have lost the plot, but that's what it seems to be asking for, to me.
John
In the uk we have bayonet and ES LEDs at 220v 13w = 100w
there are bayonet to ES adapters and using one gives a 50% chance of making the thread live in a ES LED bulb
QUESTION
the thread in a ES should not be live for safety but if a bayonet to ES adapter made it live would a ES LED bulb still work as it should
It would still work, there is no difference for AC as the current changes direction all the time anyway.
*****
Thank you for the reply
What would you say is the max watts vs heat and bulb life, would 4 LED bulbs of 11w (75w) be better than 3 of 13w (100w)
would the 2w be enough of a drop to give it a longer life
(i was thinking of getting a 3x or 4x bayonet to ES adapter
I hoped you were going to show us how the power supply was assembled, that is the part which fails rather than the leds.
i suspect they die from inrush current as the DC side capacitor charges up, stressing the input fuse resistor/choke. so on/off cycles are their nemesis, not length of time/LED heat death it seems.
I suspect this also, most of my LED failures have been during power up.
how many volts where you applying to it?
I wonder how many lumens that led board can give off? Would make a powerful torch if it wasn't for that pesky power requirement!
Knuckles the Echidna The specification for the whole thing claimed 806 lumens, or equivalent to a 60W incandescent lamp.
+John Ward | 75W actually, this Panasonic 806 lumen warm colour LED bulb packaging says 806 lumens is equivalent to a 75W incandescent. A 60W deadcandescent spotlight bulb was replaced with an 806 lumen Philips 9.5W LED bulb (no, not the same one in the video. But the ratings might be the same) a few weeks ago and I can say, the LED bulb may be a little bit too bright for the bathroom.
I have an LED lamp that failed. It was rated at 5 watts with five LEDs.
The LEDs are on a metal plate which is screwed to a fairly substantual heatsink.
The power supply has a transformer, transistor, IC, and electroletic capacitor.
The LEDs themselves are still working and I am running them from a bench power supply.
Could you take off the leds and make a larger light with the leds form the light bulb
not sure if the comments have asked yet but, is there a way to get enough information easily about the smd led's in this built to build a conversion battery powered system for it?
I had a similar looking LED globe fail and I am now running the LEDs off 12 volts at barely any current.
Aren't these advertised as working for over a decade?
Doazic I wonder how many of these has been tested to see if it lasts the specified amount of hours it should? Will newer versions still last as long? Does any body remember the original CFL's that could last over 20 Years?
I got a Cree and a Philips that have done more time than the one in this video both going strong. Philips runs hotter, not sure if it's a good thing.
Doazic 15000 hours is claimed, 10 years at 4 hours a day.
That is only an average and is usually the time by which 50% of a test sample has failed.
***** That's Ok but when every one has switched over to LED lamps in a couple of years will they still last 15000 hours, or will their life span start tp shrink the way CFL lamps did and incandescent lamps did LOL?
Coolkeys2009 CFLs may well last for the claimed number of hours but their light output will have dropped substantially. IME even branded lamps like Sylvania, GE and Philips would drop to around 2/3rds in a couple of years of dusk to bedtime use.
So the cheep ones the LED's fail and the good ones the power supply's fail. Well hell.
I purchased an LED lightbulb just like this one a super cheap brand that I will not even name here. It lasted a little over five days, and just died. The metal shell construction is identical to the Philips bulb that was shown, and I managed to remove the internal circuit board by sawing off the dome on top and the screw connector on the bottom with a hacksaw blade.
I broke off all the plastic from around the metal can on the base, and shining a light inside I saw that the board was stuck to the can with a generous glob of silicone adhesive. That was why the board was resisting being pulled out of the can. I snipped off the adhesive and cut the wires connecting to the LED board. I bent back the soft aluminum with a pair of pliers, and the board just slid right out.
The reason the bulb had failed so quickly? A 10 uf 50 volt capacitor on the power supply board had self destructed: it was bloated almost beyond recognition. The power supply was based on the bp2326a pfc buck converter chip. It looked surprisingly well designed and made, and if the manufacturer hadn't cheaped out and used rubbish chinese electrolytic capacitors, no doubt it would still be working today.
PS I salvaged two inductors from the board that will come in handy for future projects, so it wasn't a total loss!
these are the good ones!!
i got 14.5w Osram bulb that stopped working after few days, i cut open the plastic bulb and tossed it.and mine opens easily and only held by 2 pointy contacts and 2 screws(glue also but i pryed it open). one of them was loose so i bent a little the base so it can hold the pointy prong properly. it works now but its too damn bright. and is it even dangerous to use it like that? can something burn? or the plastic bulb is just for aesthetics and prevent short circuit?
Those LED are connected in series so if one goes out the rest wii not work. Putting jump wire on the bad one will make the bulb work again, slightly brighter than before.
Hi John
Can you tell me how much current does one single LED use?
volts and ampere
Typically between 2 and 3 volts. Current depends on what type, anything from around 20mA upwards.
heh i kept watching with my fingers crossed that you were going to use the grinder or vice of knowledge to get like IN there lol
Can anyone help ? I need to glow the LED when the circuit is open...
Can anyone help me out with the circuit... ?
I think if you got into the black pitch or whatever it was you're just find a capacitive dropper that seem to be standard now
where might i find one of those clamping devices ? :)
I have a 5 watt led bulb, that gives out 55 watts of lumens, I want to make a rechrechargable battrry bank to hook it up to, solar that iis, so my questioquestion is, if the bulb iis 5 watts, and a standard 1.2v double as battery has about 3 watts in it , two should make 6 watts. Shouldnt that be enough to power the bub, its obvious thathat the bulbs resistor and capacitor are made for 120/220 current, so there may lie my problm, I thought since it consumed 5 watts a 9 volt battery would light it up , but doesn't work, so heres my question, how many 9 volt or As batteries do I need to light it up, tia
If you got yourself a Dremel you could grind around the top where the LED's were fitted.
I didn't knew there was this type of "bayonet" light bulbs.
correction , run from one of the 110 v wires that make up the 220 v
Dear John, someone asked me what type of LED is brightest in the world. I answered Cree type of LED as I know very little. I only know of types SMT, Cree brand which i think is COB type of LED . Cheers
the black rubbery stuff I've heard called "potting compound"
We almost need a new DC standard for home lighting, something like 48v, then LED bulbs could literally be a bunch of LEDs in series rated to operate at that voltage standard with a current limiting resistor and that's it. You would have a redundant 48v psu/breaker panel at the electrical panel that would feed all the DC circuits. Sure, the LEDs last forever... but the cheap PSUs they put in them don't. That's how they get you.
+Red Squirrel
The problem of that would be have to wire separatly just for lighting with wires much thicker than with 230V AC!
This would be much more expensive, but it would be possible!
Instead you could just buy LED Lamps with discrete converter(transformer)!
+Animarkzero but hopefully running far lower wattages than required for traditional 230V wiring
+Animarkzero | Yep, running an LED lamp with a separate power supply is the far better option!
The power supply should be built into the lighting fixture with a standard DC voltage, then all that is needed is LEDs connected in series. The bulbs could be very cheap and last a very long time as long as they don't build crappy power supplies into the fixtures.
It probably wouldn't, 1MM T&E is rated for 16A. 16 * 48 = 768W.
Let's say every light fitting has a 13W LED bulb (100W Incandescent equivalent). That would allow 59 bulbs per circuit assuming a perfect 1.0 Power Factor (which it would have if you're only using LEDs and an inrushn / current limiting resistor and no SMPS / Capacitive Dropper).
I always wondered why lamp holders have a double insulated symbol on them, yet the actual lamps do not. Surely the lamp is the appliance, and the lamp holder is just how it is connected to the electricity supply, the same as a socket.
jayja45 Because you can get metal lamp holders?
+Mikerhodes09 you can get brass and steel lamp holders...
Philips, "let's make things better" used to be their slogan, now its lets make things break after 2 years and cost 20 x as much as a 100 watt incandescent, got several of the ES in the 5.5w flavor of the identical shape in your video all dead, all leds work on external supply, all integral psu faults.
They made it so sturdy because they learned their lesson with CFL where people were getting them repaired for 0.5$ in my country and with bulk of junk parts from all those broken CFLs you could mesh up any parts to make them work. And I think they gonna remain expensive till all those CFL factories are shifted to LED production.
I had both good and bad experience with Phillips LED bulbs due to pure ignorance on my part, I bought a 12W LED bulb for 10$ and it was a nice upgrade over 30 watt CFL with more brightness and following suit I bought two 7W for 14$ and when I put them in room to replace two 23 watt CFL they were less brighter and then I checked to find out its lumes were less than CFL :(
I still find the Fluorescent tube lights superior to CFL , we had two of them last for more than twenty years ( avg use of 4 hrs a day, and secret sauce was a 200W incandescent bulb in series to supply mains to tube light )
Mine started flickering when if got cold outside. About 5deg C. It would stop flickering after a few minutes. I took mine apart. I had a feeling the capacitor was going bad and I was right. The bottom blew out of the capacitor.
Philips lamps will always be too expensive for most people to buy. LED lamps are now readily available at around £1 for 5 to 9 Watts in UK shops. I've been using these for over a year without any problems, pay more if you want to.
What's with the Angus Deayton impression, volume emphasis on one word in a sentence?
That "black gunky resin" just so happens to be silicone. And its sole purpose is to provide some shock and vibration resilience, whilst preventing moisture ingress.
I love the way the advertice those highly priced lamps, like they lasted "forever" and super green, but no one will hit its goal in hors, pure BS. They last the same as the older CFL, even when leds are supposed to "last almost "forever", they fail at in the power supply, so what the point of the marketing people, you low you bill a bit, yes, but this ones are expensive too. Who is making or saving money ????????????. Cheers
+38911bytefree The problem is that they've been shrinking these things for aesthetics, going beyond what's reasonable. Early on you would have noticed these bulbs having masses of heatsink fins to keep things cool, but to make them look like regular bulbs, obviously they've created a flawed design, even insulating the metal body with a plastic cladding. The lower watt led bulbs which don't have much chance of getting hot do last a long time.
+wooo weee
Exactly!
They aren't designed properly. They are giving LED lighting a bad rep as well.
Thanks
The bulb is made this way supposedly only for the purpose of reasonably cheap manufacturing, and I'm absolutely sure it's unintentional that you can't easily take it apart to fix it. Yes, Sheldon, sarcasm.
Just for the record you can now get a Great Value 9w 800 lumen non-dimmable bulb at Walmart for $2. I cut one open and it is built better than the one in this video.
I bought some of these, and the light from them isn't fantastic. You are better off with the clear topped bulbs,
rather than the white ones
Hope ours doesn't go I bought the 6w version on the landing. If I can remember correctly it cost me £6 from toolstation about 10 month ago.
It isn't used very much just for when we go upstairs when it's dark, when installed it was weird seeing a light bulb at full brightness and a very bright one haha we when through 2 fluorescent compacts both philips in 1 year the first one was a philips eco tone which when they get older the phosphor burns inside which causes the tubes to deteriorate and gets dimmer I can see this happening after ohhhh hmm about 10 years of use well that when we got the eco tones originally. I remember the price in tesco then around £12 each, (memories before led) haha
So then I replaced it with the newer eco tone it was better but still needed a warm up so it got taken out and replaced with the led bulbs
I tend to go with philips for my bulbs I'm affiliated with them. Even philips have a good range of street lighting luminaires such as the luma, iridium, citysoul etc
I'm thinking buying a philips coreline t8 fluorescent led bulb for the shed in the next few weeks as they are very good colour rendering and excellent efficiency.
Sorry for the waffle waffle mate :D
Great video John keep up the great work.
Paint the base, the white plastic part, black with a sharpie, haven't lost one that I have done this to yet. Black is supposed to radiate heat away better, and it's a cheap experiment. Someone with an infrared camera should test and see if it makes them run cooler
Hi, do you believe this still has beneficial effect? I was wondering if a small matrix of mini holes to increase ventilation/ cooling would help?
Yes I have been very disappointed with Phillips. They used to be quality but now I avoid them as they just don't last. That lifetime they print on the box seems a big load of fantasy.
The name 'Phillips' means nothing these days.
Every LED bulb I've bought from Aldi are still functioning perfectly.
Even little cheapy low wattage plastic 1s I've bought years ago are STILL working!
Phillips = GIBSON!
Same. I've stopped buying Philips LED bulbs as they don't seem to last very long, but the cheaper grocery store own brand bulbs are still going.
Nice.
and this is so called eco light, so many hazardous substances used to produce this, and how much energy was used to produce, can anybody calculate this? I do not believe that this is more eco friendly light source than traditional or halogen bulb,
I won't be surprised to see how it turns out that tradidional low cost bulbs and renewable energy is more eco friendly.
It is possible for electric cars to actually make more pollution than a petrol/diesel car.
+deviceundertest This is NOTHING compared to a CFL. I just pulled the ballast out of one to find 1 transformer, two inductors, NINE capacitors, four diodes, one zener diode, four resistors and a transistor... that doesnt include the phosphor, glass, plastic and mercury in the rest of the bulb.
if this way the 70's you'd have a pot full of oozing PCBs to add to your carcinogen intake
*Sigh*
So many LED lamp failures are caused by the LEDs being run at above their allowable operating temp.
Even the "good" lamps like these are poorly designed!
+Benjamin „Ozias“ Esposti
Well...the lamp industry once started a little thing called "obsolescence" when they engineered the wolfram lamp to last for exactly 1000 hours instead of 10000 or more hours!
Do you think they will abandon this behavior just when a new generation of lighting techonlogy comes out?
This how they made and still make huge amounts of money and grow to virulent multinational enterprises that rule the world nowadays!
*****
Yes, Lelouch ... I bet you're pissed because you are no longer ruling over everyone >:P
Now you got me ;)
*****
I love Lelouch, he's one of the first characters I really got attached to. Code Geass was one of the first anime I watched :D
Watch again. The LEDs were still working fine and thus not the part overloaded. It was some part of the driver circuit hidden inside the cone.
You should have cut it trough the rectification board.
People around here are saying is planed obsolescence. It's not entirely true. They made the100w bulb last 1000 ours because of cost. You can make a 100 bulb last 10000 hours if you readuce the current thru and the temperature of the filament. So let's try an analogy here. If you put 2 light bulbs in series, they will last year's, but there is a downside. Higher cost, lesser and oranger light, and also lower efficiency because you producing more heat then light. So you can make a "100 W light bulb" that last more out of 4 100w bulbs if you put 2 in series in paralel with the other 2 in series. It will draw almost the same 100w (lower filament temperature means lower resistance and higher current.. this actually means more then 100w) but this is 4 time the cost, produce less light and is less efficient. The same thing is with LED bulbs. They could make a LED bulb that last 10000 hours and have same light output. But it will have to be mutch bigger beacause will need a bigger heatsink (it can also maybe need a fan inside for cooling) and of course alot more individually LEDs. But that thing will cost like 50 pounds or more. Thats like 500 to 1000 pouns for changing all the light bulbs in a house. So it's possible to make a light bulb that last more but is not that practical. and sorry for bad English. I'm not native. and im writing this on a phone. Have a nice day everyone! :)
wondering why you only have 220 v and no 110 v , where i live we run a wire from one of the 220 v wires threw the item and then to a earth ground and get 110 v
+carmichael moritz All UK electrical appliances are 230V, so no reason to have a dual voltage system.
that lamp must have a huge carbon foot print
Philips should refund you 90% of your purchase cost as the globe only survived 10% of its lifespan of 30,000 hours....ripped off!
Good vid 👍
That's another standard got ya. John what happens, the resin and rubber coating over the power supply is supposed to stop moisture ingress which will destroy the power supply, but it doesn't work, moisture will still get in eventually and the moisture now is trapped actually accelerating corrosion. Also now even more heat gets trapped around the components on the power supply causing failure. Also the constant heat cycling of the lamp actually draws in moisture. The idea of building a power supply into a led assembly is a FAIL, the correct way is to create a standard say 12v dc use nothing but a few small dropping resistors in the led arrays and use a separate power supply, all easily repairable or replaceable, including replacement of failed leds, so there is no waste.
I make my own led panels, all 12vdc, huge heatsinks, no failures, 7 years passed still no failures.
I BET THE LED BORD STILL WOULD HAVE WORKED
you demolished that
The 'LYM ENTRY RANGE' on the LED PCB could mean it was made by this company:
lymlighting.gmc.globalmarket.com/
Those five-pad footprints in the middle seem to be for another two LEDs and I wonder what the unpopulated links JP1 & 3 do.
Graham Langley I would guess the board can run either 24 leds in series or two parallel strings of 12 leds, for use in 110 and 220V countries.
So here we are, us, the top engineering types, (apparently) outengineered by the Chinese, reminds me a bit of those folks in WWII (a good British accent helps the imagery) , breaking open electronic boxes from downed Heinkels and Messerschmitts. I realize it is not so much the engineering, as producing stuff so cheaply that we just can't compete. We've been HAD! Because now what? anyone????
Use a dremel on it :-)
good
They add not to hang upside down in a contained enclosure. User error- if you vented it properly - would have gotten more life.. If a fan is there too-- + life.
Someone needs to give some LED panels to photonicinduction so he can blow them the fuck up. "Just how much power can they take?"
It's very unimpressive- the gold bond wires fail, it goes open circuit and you just get a tiny black dot inside the LED.
Nice video
make also Led videos
Not so different from the $1.00 Led lamps though. Mass production with lower quality.
Bought Diode bulbs of different firms 15 W, Russian lamps shine brighter than all
kinda strange, i bought 7 bulbs for my house and they all already burned out. 1 bulb i changed 5 times now... all in all have them for 6 months. i wonder if any one knows, is 20000 and 30000 hours life estimated time is a made up number to sell us crap?
The rated hours is usually the time by which 50% of a test sample under certain conditions has failed.
Actual use may be very different due to how/where they are installed, ambient temperature/humidity, how often they are switched, etc.
I see, Thank you for fast reply. i realized why they burn out so fast.(from your answer) my led bulbs are used for 14 hours every day, it's hot in my house. i guess this is what kill them off so fast. still though i jumped the hype train and covered my house with them. sadly i replace them faster than i did with CFL bulbs (not by much) and if i think about it... bulbs that survived the longest are the old tech incandescent bulbs. i used to replace them once a year or year and a half. Led bulbs i replace every 4-6 months and CFL i replaced every 8 to 10 months. (really hate the CFL bulbs they stink when they burn out.)i hope some day they invent a real 25000 hour bulb no matter the environment condition.
No wonder It was £12 ! And all the plastic !
So, the solution is: Don't buy LED bulbs... stay with incandescent bulbs or fluorescent bulbs. ??
Cool teardown. It's cool to see what's inside and makes them tick! I review & benchmark all types of bulbs on my channel! Please stop by and let me know what you think!
You sound like Q from James Bond 😂
I've never been a fan of Philips, My experience is their stuff is pretty unreliable. Almost as if its engineered to fail.
Watching the video 5 minute 45 second I think I never fixed my LED bulb
This would have been a simple teardown using a dremel tool to slice the metal part open to find the culprit. Please re-do your video with this new knowledge.
Did it really need >11 minutes to say "I got it apart and found that the LEDs still work so the driver electronics (which I couldn't get at) is what failed"?
Something made in china that's not complete crap for a change, but ...
Is that a Hammond M100?
this is real tear down ,.......buy osram, Philips don't last long,.............
Do you possess any sense of humor?
Bop
Not an actual teardown. You should have cut the base with an angle grinder and removed the "black stuff" from the PCB to analyze it. Rookie mistake and I am thinking of unsubscribing.
Has this bloke got a sense of humor , its depressing