Thank you for sharing this information. I was really struggling with this. Did not know to look at the wheels. Your absolutely right about this information not being in the manual. Thanks again for sharing
That's not the throttle it is the Reverse. Read on the handle. It is so you can back up. MUST have tines OFF the ground when you do it. I bought one years ago and it came assembled and delivered to house. They didn't put the handle bars on right and they would slide down and up. So if yours does that you need to move those flat bars to the other side of where they are. Lowes couldn't figure it out. You can adjust them for your comfy zone if you short or tall.
What a cheap-ass way to build something!!! This makes me appreciate my old Howard Gem a lot more! But then again, they were the best rototiller ever made on the planet!!! 3 speeds forward, one in reverse with a clutch! Shift it like a car or a tractor with a gear shift lever! Never having to do anything with that lynch pin on the axle! Yes, those are lynch-pins not Cotter pins. But you could use cotter pins if you wanted to. Troy-Bilt are not that great. Sorry. You should have checked out BCS tillers . They have more attachments for gardening/farming.
You are now my hero. I did not know that about the wheels and been pushing it without moving the wheels in place. It's been killing my shoulders. I thought I had to be doing something wrong and this is the only video/article I have found that explained adjusting the wheels.
Also, for transporting to and from, just lower the drag bar and it’ll drive without digging in. It’ll still turn the tines, so be careful. No need to pin wheels every time you move it. Thank you for showing this.
THANK YOU Kevin and Dearly! I never knew this, I've been starting my tiller just so i could move it from point A to B and they move soooooo slow so it took awhile to get it to the shed... THANK you, have a blessed day!
I bought my new bronco this past spring. But it was jumping Everytime I was tilting. Now by watching your video finally figured out what was the problem. I was tilting with free wheels. Not lock in place. Tomorrow I will try to use again. I was so disappointed when I first use it. Because I have a big horse tiller , than works great. Thank you so much to show this step before you till the soil. It is a life saver. Al. M
This video was GREAT, BUT, let me share this. The FREE WHEEL thing with the pin is important. However, I have a older version of this exact tiller, and here is what is happening to me. Mine is in the wheel LOCK mode, which is suppose to control this abrupt forward JUMP or movement, as this can be VERY DANGEROUS, however with my Troy Built tiller, even when the wheels are in the locked position, they ARE NOT preventing the tiller from jumping forward, which would mean something possibly in the transmission is allowing the thrust and pull of the blades digging in the ground is OVERPOWERING THE wheels in their locked position or controlled forward position and still allowing the tiller to jump violently forward, oh hell!!!!
Thank you for sharing this video. It is a great introduction to the operation of the Super Bronco. I have just purchased this model of Troy-Bilt tiller. This video has given me the confidence that I need to operate this piece of equipment safely and with confidence. Great job!
OMG (as my daughter used to say) - I bought this tiller at Tractor Supply at a $400 discount (last years model maybe), it came with no instruction manual. I loved hearing you say it was useless! Anyway, I didn't know about the 'self propelled' mode!!! Can I send you some funding for providing your tutelage? Tell me where to send the funds and thank you (again and again)...
Excellent video. My tiller is similar. Model is 170-AUA. Not sure if your tiller has the same model #. I misplaced my manual so I can't remember what the oil capacity is? I've similar tillers with a different engine model # but those are saying 20oz. Was wondering if that's the correct capacity?
Does it come with those quick release wheel pins? My TB Mustang has bolt and nut? Also, my Mustang free wheels when placed in reverse. Is it supposed to?
On the choke...mine starts cold on the first pull when the choke is full on. I did the same as you did putting the choke in the middle for about 20 seconds. Then I put the choke to the right full off. When I have the choke completely off, it starts surging, backfiring once in awhile. If I have the choke barely off just past the slanted, it runs smooth. What would cause this? I took an air hose and blew out the fuel line, cleaned out the fuel bowl, cleaned out the float port hole with a thin wire. It still surges and backfires if I have the choke completely off. Could the spark plug be bad? Would I have to completely take the carb off and clean it? Anyone who can help, thank you in advance.
Strange when I look at the Operator's manual it explains how the wheels work on pages 8 and 9. Section 3 assemble and set up. Are you missing a page? but thanks for showing people.
first of all counter rotating tines suck, it looks like your digging a trench not tilling..i had a 90's pony till the handle bars broke..so i bought me a real machine a BCS 749
Man, I’m so glad I got a D.R. Power version of the same model, (big one) you could just switch it in neutral switch it in the reverse change the tine direction
i got mine from my son for 500.00 used maybe 4 hrs,bigger is always better,not all the time,am getting older so its small, light and does the job its meant to do,the only neg remark i have is the handle and tiller guard is to thin,handle flexes,and the guard bends and flex,before i would pay 1100.00 dollars i would shop others,but its a good simple tiller,4.5 star out of 5
I just wanted to say that I really do think she's just amazing! Entertainment personified. She should totally have her own TV show. Like I'd sit through some commercials to see what happens next! Just saying.
I've had this about four months and have found it to be an aggressive and powerful rig. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxjo0FLo5z3Y_qUcT3vSlOqpMaMdFjvsXa I've used several others in the past and the Sun Joe surpasses these, easily. I note that several people have commented that it bounces on rocky and compacted soil. I believe that would be the case with all tillers - the ground does need to be "broken", either with a larger tractor type unit or with a shovel, and rocks need to be removed. I'm living on a Pike silt loam here in the midwest and the Sun Joe turns my garden to bug dust in two quick passes. I use a technique where I do a short 2 foot run then pull it back and let it go over it again.
WOW! I was thinking about buying a new one of these, I have 2. One from the 80s, and a newer model. Both have a lever on the top to engage and disengage free wheel. My how these have changed. I don't think I want a new one now.
The older troy bilts had a disengage lever so you could free wheel...don't know why they did away with that. Also this couple needs more practice it appears on how to till correctly!
Excellent video! So there's not separate controls for the drive wheels and the tine shaft? My Ariens snow blower has one lever for the drive wheels and another lever to engage the auger. Not having separate levers on a tiller seems dangerous and inconvenient -- am I missing something?
My TB Pony has no cotter pin, only bolt and nut. The assembly direction had the wheel put in outer hole but there is a shifter which you put in neutral to move to storage.
I inherited a tiller like that. It didn't move. I could never find what is wrong with it so I soled it dirt cheap. I am now learning that I gave a way a perfectly find tiller. All I can say is shame on Troy for not highlighting this important point for their product.
You have got to be kidding me. Those design engineers should be tar and feather. I have a 40 year old troy Built horse when they were built in Troy New York and free wheeling is the easiest thing in the world.
Troy built poor design. I have a poulan put your transmission in neutral and roll wherever you want. Troy built is a much better tiller but that's a poor design point on them
I had one of those. The tines turn forward when every other tillers turn backwards. When trying to break soil, it would stand on its tines, and take off.
Using shear pins to engage the wheels are the norm on just about all rear tine tillers. It pays to keep a spare set of shear pins on hand in case you have one to shear. To the new owners of these types of tillers a suggestion. Remove the wheels and apply grease to the axle shafts before you use the tiller for the first time. At the end of the season. Remove the wheels again, clean the axle shafts and wheel hubs, apply new grease and reinstall the wheels. This will prevent the wheels from seizing to the axles and make gear box repairs much easier. A lot of time if the wheel seizes to the axle. The wheel will be destroyed when trying to remove it.
Thank you sooo much for explaining the wheels. I literally just finished reading the owners manual to my brand new Troy-Bilt 15 mins ago, and it did not tell me anything about pulling the pins! Sure appreciate you.. happy gardening. Rick
"Don't want to get in those leaves"?? Really? I haul leaves INTO my garden from the other 14 acres! Organic material is always good, provided it is small enough for the tiller to turn it into the dirt. Small twigs and sticks are alright, as long as they don't get big enough to bog the engine down, or stall it out. Manure, pine straw in limited amounts, grass clippings, kitchen vegetable scraps, sawdust, if it will compost, I turn it into the soil. I can't get enough organic material in this hot southwest Arkansas climate, located on clay/gravel land. Your north-central Virginia soil is superior to what I have to work with, but tilling organic material into the soil can never hurt!
Wow that’s great 😃 your guest really explains it very well, can’t wait to try one, only will have to get some land , since I live in an apartment in CA 😂 I used to live in Front Royal, VA long time ago, lots of yard work and loved all the seasons ❤️
What the heck. I've owned mine for 6yrs and hated it. If I go out today and find out it was self propelled, Im gonna lose it. Thx you guys so much
Thank you for sharing this information. I was really struggling with this. Did not know to look at the wheels. Your absolutely right about this information not being in the manual. Thanks again for sharing
That's not the throttle it is the Reverse. Read on the handle. It is so you can back up. MUST have tines OFF the ground when you do it. I bought one years ago and it came assembled and delivered to house. They didn't put the handle bars on right and they would slide down and up. So if yours does that you need to move those flat bars to the other side of where they are. Lowes couldn't figure it out. You can adjust them for your comfy zone if you short or tall.
What a cheap-ass way to build something!!!
This makes me appreciate my old Howard Gem a lot more! But then again, they were the best rototiller ever made on the planet!!!
3 speeds forward, one in reverse with a clutch!
Shift it like a car or a tractor with a gear shift lever!
Never having to do anything with that lynch pin on the axle!
Yes, those are lynch-pins not Cotter pins.
But you could use cotter pins if you wanted to.
Troy-Bilt are not that great.
Sorry.
You should have checked out BCS tillers .
They have more attachments for gardening/farming.
You are now my hero. I did not know that about the wheels and been pushing it without moving the wheels in place. It's been killing my shoulders. I thought I had to be doing something wrong and this is the only video/article I have found that explained adjusting the wheels.
Oh my goodness!! Thank you a million times over!! All my questions are answered!! Mine is working like a dream now!!
Also, for transporting to and from, just lower the drag bar and it’ll drive without digging in. It’ll still turn the tines, so be careful. No need to pin wheels every time you move it. Thank you for showing this.
Yes, but it sure is slower that way. Plus you are wasting gas.
It is damn well in the manual. I learned this 10 years ago when I actually read the manual for my tiller.
a little too slow explaining.
THANK YOU Kevin and Dearly! I never knew this, I've been starting my tiller just so i could move it from point A to B and they move soooooo slow so it took awhile to get it to the shed... THANK you, have a blessed day!
I bought my new bronco this past spring. But it was jumping Everytime I was tilting. Now by watching your video finally figured out what was the problem.
I was tilting with free wheels. Not lock in place. Tomorrow I will try to use again. I was so disappointed when I first use it. Because I have a big horse tiller , than works great.
Thank you so much to show this step before you till the soil.
It is a life saver.
Al. M
This video was GREAT, BUT, let me share this. The FREE WHEEL thing with the pin is important. However, I have a older version of this exact tiller, and here is what is happening to me. Mine is in the wheel LOCK mode, which is suppose to control this abrupt forward JUMP or movement, as this can be VERY DANGEROUS, however with my Troy Built tiller, even when the wheels are in the locked position, they ARE NOT preventing the tiller from jumping forward, which would mean something possibly in the transmission is allowing the thrust and pull of the blades digging in the ground is OVERPOWERING THE wheels in their locked position or controlled forward position and still allowing the tiller to jump violently forward, oh hell!!!!
Thank you so much troy 18:31 built make a good machine with no instructions
Thank you for sharing this video. It is a great introduction to the operation of the Super Bronco. I have just purchased this model of Troy-Bilt tiller. This video has given me the confidence that I need to operate this piece of equipment safely and with confidence. Great job!
Troy Built makes a 4wheeler???........I don't think so. Enjoyed the video.
Dearly & Kevin
Good To Know,
Awesome Thats Great A Easy Way To Do It & A Better Way Cool That Is Very Nice.🙋
OMG (as my daughter used to say) - I bought this tiller at Tractor Supply at a $400 discount (last years model maybe), it came with no instruction manual. I loved hearing you say it was useless! Anyway, I didn't know about the 'self propelled' mode!!! Can I send you some funding for providing your tutelage? Tell me where to send the funds and thank you (again and again)...
Excellent video. My tiller is similar. Model is 170-AUA. Not sure if your tiller has the same model #. I misplaced my manual so I can't remember what the oil capacity is? I've similar tillers with a different engine model # but those are saying 20oz. Was wondering if that's the correct capacity?
Yeah, had the same drama...some whack-a-doodle lost the pins, and put bolts in....thanks for the video!....now I Know!
Oh man that's a nice tiller my eyes are so green 😉LOL just love that y'all were able to get the tiller
Does it come with those quick release wheel pins? My TB Mustang has bolt and nut? Also, my Mustang free wheels when placed in reverse. Is it supposed to?
On the choke...mine starts cold on the first pull when the choke is full on.
I did the same as you did putting the choke in the middle for about 20 seconds.
Then I put the choke to the right full off.
When I have the choke completely off, it starts surging, backfiring once in awhile. If I have the choke barely off just past the slanted, it runs smooth. What would cause this?
I took an air hose and blew out the fuel line, cleaned out the fuel bowl, cleaned out the float port hole with a thin wire.
It still surges and backfires if I have the choke completely off.
Could the spark plug be bad?
Would I have to completely take the carb off and clean it?
Anyone who can help, thank you in advance.
Big horsepower on that ! It's a Birdseye back 40 special
He said toyytle 🐢 like bebop and rocksteady from ninja Turtles …early 90s cartoon 😂😂😂
Great tiller! For all the gardening you do,, you need it. I use a small cultivator and wouldn't want to ever be without one.
Strange when I look at the Operator's manual it explains how the wheels work on pages 8 and 9. Section 3 assemble and set up. Are you missing a page? but thanks for showing people.
first of all counter rotating tines suck, it looks like your digging a trench not tilling..i had a 90's pony till the handle bars broke..so i bought me a real machine a BCS 749
Man, I’m so glad I got a D.R. Power version of the same model, (big one) you could just switch it in neutral switch it in the reverse change the tine direction
i got mine from my son for 500.00 used maybe 4 hrs,bigger is always better,not all the time,am getting older so its small, light and does the job its meant to do,the only neg remark i have is the handle and tiller guard is to thin,handle flexes,and the guard bends and flex,before i would pay 1100.00 dollars i would shop others,but its a good simple tiller,4.5 star out of 5
I love this lady! Bless her for trying to speak English. It's a hard language to learn. But she's Fantastic! A good person.
I just wanted to say that I really do think she's just amazing! Entertainment personified. She should totally have her own TV show. Like I'd sit through some commercials to see what happens next! Just saying.
Bro she was in the vidoe for 1 minute. You are a women predator. Fuck out of here.
I've had this about four months and have found it to be an aggressive and powerful rig. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxjo0FLo5z3Y_qUcT3vSlOqpMaMdFjvsXa I've used several others in the past and the Sun Joe surpasses these, easily. I note that several people have commented that it bounces on rocky and compacted soil. I believe that would be the case with all tillers - the ground does need to be "broken", either with a larger tractor type unit or with a shovel, and rocks need to be removed. I'm living on a Pike silt loam here in the midwest and the Sun Joe turns my garden to bug dust in two quick passes. I use a technique where I do a short 2 foot run then pull it back and let it go over it again.
WOW! I was thinking about buying a new one of these, I have 2. One from the 80s, and a newer model. Both have a lever on the top to engage and disengage free wheel. My how these have changed. I don't think I want a new one now.
I inherited one of these from my Dad when he passed away. I am so glad you showed how to make the wheels move!! ❤
The older troy bilts had a disengage lever so you could free wheel...don't know why they did away with that. Also this couple needs more practice it appears on how to till correctly!
I wish people would just get to the point of a video, then they can ramble on and on and on and on and on.............
Thanks for the info ,a point of interest always in gauge the starter then pull ,don't just yank it. Cheers
Excellent video! So there's not separate controls for the drive wheels and the tine shaft? My Ariens snow blower has one lever for the drive wheels and another lever to engage the auger. Not having separate levers on a tiller seems dangerous and inconvenient -- am I missing something?
We have all of this technology available but you still gotta do/ undo self propeller mode with a cotter pin thats bs!!!!!
My TB Pony has no cotter pin, only bolt and nut. The assembly direction had the wheel put in outer hole but there is a shifter which you put in neutral to move to storage.
I inherited a tiller like that. It didn't move. I could never find what is wrong with it so I soled it dirt cheap. I am now learning that I gave a way a perfectly find tiller. All I can say is shame on Troy for not highlighting this important point for their product.
You have got to be kidding me. Those design engineers should be tar and feather. I have a 40 year old troy Built horse when they were built in Troy New York and free wheeling is the easiest thing in the world.
Thats a good tiller!! Good brand! Never have problems with it. Did he say fakebook page 🤣 🤣 🤣 I have to remember that
Troy built poor design. I have a poulan put your transmission in neutral and roll wherever you want. Troy built is a much better tiller but that's a poor design point on them
I had one of those. The tines turn forward when every other tillers turn backwards. When trying to break soil, it would stand on its tines, and take off.
Using shear pins to engage the wheels are the norm on just about all rear tine tillers. It pays to keep a spare set of shear pins on hand in case you have one to shear.
To the new owners of these types of tillers a suggestion. Remove the wheels and apply grease to the axle shafts before you use the tiller for the first time. At the end of the season. Remove the wheels again, clean the axle shafts and wheel hubs, apply new grease and reinstall the wheels.
This will prevent the wheels from seizing to the axles and make gear box repairs much easier. A lot of time if the wheel seizes to the axle. The wheel will be destroyed when trying to remove it.
If you till those leaves in its good for your soil and your plants.Makes the soil ritcher,like compost.
Thank you!!!! Wheel engagement. This is exactly what I was looking for! God bless you!!!
I have a legend force and had the same problem. Was dragging it! 🙏 thanks. I am surprise it is not in the manual.
Notice another tiller user had the tread pointing in the opposite direction. Wonder which way is better. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. You mention staying out of the leaves. Does that mean it will not till in mulch?
The one that I got still wants to launch forward even with the Wheels locked maybe I need to add some weight on there that might be my problem lol
Wow what a BEAUTIFUL Filipina
Thanks for the demonstration! I just bought one for my yard, and your demonstration are very helpful for me to start using my Troy Bilt. Thanks..
Thats a nice tiller,thank Kevin for show us how to operate it. Good job Dearly for tilling for us. Glad ur getting ur garden ready .
I know this an old vid. but thank you so much for the detailed information
Thank you sooo much for explaining the wheels. I literally just finished reading the owners manual to my brand new Troy-Bilt 15 mins ago, and it did not tell me anything about pulling the pins! Sure appreciate you.. happy gardening. Rick
this has been on rototillers for 5 decades now, but if you don't know you don't know
Thats an awesome tillerbi just repaired one the carb was dirty from sitting be sure you run the fuel out
I have that exact model and about to use today, very helpful, thanks
Great video very clear. Showing the difficult parts and the difficulty really helps. Thanks for an honest clear video appreciate it.
Pro tip. Don't use your leg to hold up the machine; use a piece of wood
I got mine in 1993. Never knew about the wheel thing.
Omg thank you for making this video
Well I think you knew you'd be helping a lot of people out when you were making this, and I'm just another to add to the pile, thank you kindly
Put weights on the front and it wont pull away so fast and dig deeper - more control
My pulley is jammed, what could be the cause?
Why not just start the engine and move the unit with the engine without the tines engaged?
Great video…..thank you 🤗
Thanks guys, great job.
There is at least another video on that free wheeling part. And also it's in the manual!
Thank you so much for this video! My husband was having a hard time controlling this machine. Until I came to this video. 🙏🏼
Thanks for taking 20 minutes to tell us the freaking info
Lou’s auctions were often last will, estate auctions
Thank you, my tiller has sat in the shed since I bought it because of this reason.
Till the leaves in as fertilizer and compost
"Don't want to get in those leaves"?? Really? I haul leaves INTO my garden from the other 14 acres! Organic material is always good, provided it is small enough for the tiller to turn it into the dirt. Small twigs and sticks are alright, as long as they don't get big enough to bog the engine down, or stall it out. Manure, pine straw in limited amounts, grass clippings, kitchen vegetable scraps, sawdust, if it will compost, I turn it into the soil. I can't get enough organic material in this hot southwest Arkansas climate, located on clay/gravel land. Your north-central Virginia soil is superior to what I have to work with, but tilling organic material into the soil can never hurt!
thanks even bigfoot could use it nothing put love
Oh hope I can buy or afford to buy that same machine
Adjust freewheel pin on the flat lawn - easier !
Great job Kuya and Ate👌🇵🇭
Thanks u dearly sweet girl
Shouldn’t that lever at the handles engage and disengage the wheels
At least it isn’t a tecumseh engine those were not good on these tillers
Thank you so much. Y'all rock.
Hi Dearly😊☺️♥️💚💛💜💙
Wow that’s great 😃 your guest really explains it very well, can’t wait to try one, only will have to get some land , since I live in an apartment in CA 😂 I used to live in Front Royal, VA long time ago, lots of yard work and loved all the seasons ❤️
Your trick about the tires is on the machine it self
Your plants are going to love it this yr. Carrots 🥕 for the bunnies!!
That's not a cotter pin, that's a linch pin.
Thank you for the teaching
Kind of silly there is no neutral on this machine.
Thank you. Only man on RUclips, I needed this.
thank you for the video
ty for the wheel thing i was about to pull my hair out with my tiller. lol.
Takes way too long to show how to put it in free wheel mode
Awesome! Thank you!!
Good point my friend you right 👍👏
Is it good for breaking new sod?
Should have read the manual before a demo!
Y'all got a good bed to till in too!!!