7 years later they have not changed the machine at all. Great video and awesome to see you letting your kids be kids instead of worrying about the audio. Thanks.
Got myself a 1978 TroyBilt Horse I tiller, 7hp Kohler. Thing is an absolute beast. Guy tossed it at a local recycling yard, flooded the engine! Dad picked it up and we cleaned it up. I've given her a new carb, new tines and new shaft seals. New ones may be good, but they don't build 'em like my old beast anymore.
I have had a Pony for over 35 yrs. Put on some new tines and replaced a belt, but other wise runs great. Nothing compares to a Troy Bilt. I have the handlebars on mine so when i do final tilling i run it from the side. i can till deep enough that i can have the rear tine guard smoothing the dirt from the back. You are making me wish i had a bigger model like yours.
Texarkana area here. You mention the hay with the runner root system. I'm tilling a garden area that has been neglected ~15 years. Brand new, out of the box, my tiller would dig in, then just sit there, doing nothing. I rocked it back and forth, it would do a little jumping, go ahead, and hang again. Finally figured out, the root system was wadding up under the machine, basically high-centering the tiller. Put it in reverse, walk to the front, kick the wad of vegetation onto already tilled ground, and go on. Let those root masses dry in the sun for a day or five, come back for another pass, and it all tills in. I hope that tip helps someone! I was on the verge of calling this Super Bronco a piece of junk, before I figured that out!
Your reply caught my eye because I live 90 miles east of you. Haven't bought one yet but trying to decide. Have similar ground to till. Thanks for your input
Great video. I was lucky to have bought my Troy Bilt Super Bronco at Home Base in Copperas Cove, TX already assembled. I just tiller a small 12 x 14 space and it was so easy. I looked up in the manual on how to turn it off, and did not find it. So you video showed me. Thanks
Is 6" all the deeper it will till? Curtis Stone was talking about how he prepares a bed with invasive grasses. He tills and rakes out the beds once a week for several weeks to keep the grass from re-establishing.
6" is the max for this model. We will put a border (possibly treated timber) around the edges to help mitigate re-entrance from the edges. We will see if any re-sprout in the beds themselves. TBD
Thanks for sharing. I got a similiar, but older troybilt and it always wants to run away from me. I got heavy clay soil too. I guess I need to just do a little bit at a time and make sure the ground aint too wet?
Bummer to read your updated thoughts on the tiller. I used a troybilt as a kid and it seems they just aren't the same tiller as they used to be. Thanks for the vid none-the-less
before running tiller it would be a good idea to remove wheels and apply anti - sieze to the axle to prevent wheel from rusting to axle then having to heat with a torch to remove!
@bfarm44 I don't think so there is no movement between the wheel and axle. They both turn together. The wheels being seized is the biggest pain when working on old tiller
I actually wouldn't buy this one. While it has performed just fine, the frame is weak. The handles bend, the faring over the tines is bent, etc. The metal is thin and the wheels are too small. In hindsight, I would save my money and move up to a BCS or similar.
How do you change the Driving pins to where the tiller moves in free wheel mode cause, I have just been taking the driving pins out put the tires fall off at a point so idk how to move it without the engine being on
pull the pin, push the wheel all the way in toward the axle, replace the pin. The wheel should spin freely. When ready to drive..pull the pin, align the holes on the wheel with the holes on the axle, replace pin, drive.
I just purchased a Super Bronco but I'm having a problem with the depth adjustment. I understand the concept of the adjustment but mine will not budge an inch. I've tried WD-40 as well as slightly loosen a nut or two. This is my second Troy-Bilt tiller. My first was purchased in 1993; it still does a great job but I have transmission problems. No one will work on it since Troy-Bilt was sold to MTD and there are no parts available.
@@CountryLivingExperience The problem is the depth adjustment is locked in a "deep cut" position. I need to unfreeze the handle to have the ability to till just the surface also.
My handles also broke because i loaned it out and they push down hard trying to dig down. Thing i found out was the way the blades rotate they dont cut into hard dirt. So i flipped them the other way and wow what a difference i can till hard dirt now! Try it youll be amazed
I am a 63 year old woman who wants to help weed and till the garden. Never tilled before. Would this be a good tiller to just turn up the soil between rows for me?
@@CountryLivingExperience mine bounces a good bit I've been watching videos and it seems like the times are going opposite in reverse the wheels are pulling forward but the times are running in reverse
Great question. I think it is a bit small for most tilling jobs. The tires are set too low and when tilling deep it tends to mound up in front of the tiller making forward progress impossible under the power of the tiller. The tires just dig into the ground and spin. Additionally, the handles are not as strong as they should be. I have to push the tiller hard to get it through the soil and the handles bend and twist. Runs like a champ, tills like a champ. I would not get this model again but a larger one.
Troy- Built tillers are not built as well as they were before 2001. The company went bankrupt and another company bought them out. There just not the same as they were years ago. Used to be where you could only buy them from the factory but now the box stores sell them. If your wanting a good serious tiller then maybe check out BCS tillers.
I know. Mine is surely not as good as the one my Dad had in the 80's. BCS, while great, is not even in the same league as they cost 2.5 times what I paid for the Troy Built. BCS price puts them out of the hands of most.
@@CountryLivingExperience yes. BCS tillers are very expensive but if your going to be using it year after year then it's probably worth the money. I personally would like a small Kubota tractor with a 3 point hookup to plow up the ground then go over it with the Troy - Built that I have. I don't like being beat to death trying to bust up hard ground. Rear tine tillers tend to TAKE OFF if they hit hard ground or take off if you try to get them to dig down faster than normal. Gardening is a PASSION of mine but, I try to find the path of least resistance but then again I don't have a pile of money laying around either!
I just purchased this tiller at Tractor Supply. Price was ~800, shipping ~120, add in taxes, total invoice was $1006. The price hasn't changed in almost 5 years.
Хобби
7 years later they have not changed the machine at all. Great video and awesome to see you letting your kids be kids instead of worrying about the audio. Thanks.
Got myself a 1978 TroyBilt Horse I tiller, 7hp Kohler. Thing is an absolute beast. Guy tossed it at a local recycling yard, flooded the engine! Dad picked it up and we cleaned it up. I've given her a new carb, new tines and new shaft seals. New ones may be good, but they don't build 'em like my old beast anymore.
That is awesome. You found a gem. I wish I could find an old one like that. This one has not held up very well over these couple of years.
I have had a Pony for over 35 yrs. Put on some new tines and replaced a belt, but other wise runs great. Nothing compares to a Troy Bilt. I have the handlebars on mine so when i do final tilling i run it from the side. i can till deep enough that i can have the rear tine guard smoothing the dirt from the back. You are making me wish i had a bigger model like yours.
Mine is ok. They aren’t built as solid as the old ones.
Texarkana area here. You mention the hay with the runner root system. I'm tilling a garden area that has been neglected ~15 years. Brand new, out of the box, my tiller would dig in, then just sit there, doing nothing. I rocked it back and forth, it would do a little jumping, go ahead, and hang again. Finally figured out, the root system was wadding up under the machine, basically high-centering the tiller. Put it in reverse, walk to the front, kick the wad of vegetation onto already tilled ground, and go on. Let those root masses dry in the sun for a day or five, come back for another pass, and it all tills in.
I hope that tip helps someone! I was on the verge of calling this Super Bronco a piece of junk, before I figured that out!
Your reply caught my eye because I live 90 miles east of you. Haven't bought one yet but trying to decide. Have similar ground to till. Thanks for your input
Awesome. Great review. Mine is due today! Not being very tech minded, this was very reassuring!
Cool. Glad it was helpful.
Very nice tiller! Hope everything goes as planned for you! Good luck!
Thank you Edwin
Thanks! Great review. Very helpful.
You're welcome. Glad it helped.
Great video. I was lucky to have bought my Troy Bilt Super Bronco at Home Base in Copperas Cove, TX already assembled. I just tiller a small 12 x 14 space and it was so easy. I looked up in the manual on how to turn it off, and did not find it. So you video showed me. Thanks
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
Thank you very much for the review.. going to Home depot right now
You're welcome.
Is 6" all the deeper it will till? Curtis Stone was talking about how he prepares a bed with invasive grasses. He tills and rakes out the beds once a week for several weeks to keep the grass from re-establishing.
6" is the max for this model. We will put a border (possibly treated timber) around the edges to help mitigate re-entrance from the edges. We will see if any re-sprout in the beds themselves. TBD
Thanks for sharing. I got a similiar, but older troybilt and it always wants to run away from me. I got heavy clay soil too. I guess I need to just do a little bit at a time and make sure the ground aint too wet?
Clay is tough. Set the depth very shallow to start and then gradually increase it.
Bummer to read your updated thoughts on the tiller. I used a troybilt as a kid and it seems they just aren't the same tiller as they used to be. Thanks for the vid none-the-less
You're welcome. Yes, i was bummed at the difference between the one my dad had when I was a kid and this one. It still runs fine though.
before running tiller it would be a good idea to remove wheels and apply anti - sieze to the axle to prevent wheel from rusting to axle then having to heat with a torch to remove!
Do not do that dirt will get into the never seize and turn it into pasty sandpaper. That will wear down the axles and wheel hubs. Do not do this.
@bfarm44 I don't think so there is no movement between the wheel and axle. They both turn together. The wheels being seized is the biggest pain when working on old tiller
If buying all over again would you buy this same tiller? If not, what exactly would you get? Moving up in grade appears to triple the expense.
I actually wouldn't buy this one. While it has performed just fine, the frame is weak. The handles bend, the faring over the tines is bent, etc. The metal is thin and the wheels are too small. In hindsight, I would save my money and move up to a BCS or similar.
How do you change the Driving pins to where the tiller moves in free wheel mode cause, I have just been taking the driving pins out put the tires fall off at a point so idk how to move it without the engine being on
pull the pin, push the wheel all the way in toward the axle, replace the pin. The wheel should spin freely. When ready to drive..pull the pin, align the holes on the wheel with the holes on the axle, replace pin, drive.
I just purchased a Super Bronco but I'm having a problem with the depth adjustment. I understand the concept of the adjustment but mine will not budge an inch. I've tried WD-40 as well as slightly loosen a nut or two. This is my second Troy-Bilt tiller. My first was purchased in 1993; it still does a great job but I have transmission problems. No one will work on it since Troy-Bilt was sold to MTD and there are no parts available.
The depth adjustment is difficult with this one. I just shove it forward and push down hard.
@@CountryLivingExperience The problem is the depth adjustment is locked in a "deep cut" position. I need to unfreeze the handle to have the ability to till just the surface also.
@@wa4chm Did you check if bolt is tightened without spacer?
I just got a Troy Bilt bronco used. I can’t get the depth adjustment deeper than 3 notches on the adjustment bar sticking up. Is this normal?
It is a common problem. I have to really jam mine forward to change the depth.
I love mine. I'm on my second one.
Awesome
My handles also broke because i loaned it out and they push down hard trying to dig down. Thing i found out was the way the blades rotate they dont cut into hard dirt. So i flipped them the other way and wow what a difference i can till hard dirt now! Try it youll be amazed
I haven’t had that problem
Best to let it dig itself, others doesn't appreciate ones items.
How is the tiller running? I'm looking into buying one. Is it worth the money?
It runs great and tills just fine. I do wish the handles were a bit stronger. They flex a lot when in use.
Great thank you for getting back to me.
I am a 63 year old woman who wants to help weed and till the garden. Never tilled before. Would this be a good tiller to just turn up the soil between rows for me?
This tiller May be more than you can handle. I would just get a really small one like a Mantis. That will not till too deep but is much easier manage.
The mantis is real good for maintenance of already tilled soil. Before buying anything try renting first.
How is it holding up? How often do you use it?
It is working well. I use it about 6 to 8 times per year.
Can you explain this Garden Eden thing? I've never heard of it
Sure. It is a method of deep mulching a raised garden bed. I did a video on the construction of one here: ruclips.net/video/Zyc1-pGCxAQ/видео.html
@@CountryLivingExperience Thanks
It's a strong tiller but I can't keep it from skipping real harsh jump's clean out of your hands how do I prevent it from doing this please help
Mine only does that when I hit a rock. This model does not weigh much so it bounces a bit.
@@CountryLivingExperience mine bounces a good bit I've been watching videos and it seems like the times are going opposite in reverse the wheels are pulling forward but the times are running in reverse
Would you recommend this tiller now that its 3 years later? Thank you Sir.
Great question. I think it is a bit small for most tilling jobs. The tires are set too low and when tilling deep it tends to mound up in front of the tiller making forward progress impossible under the power of the tiller. The tires just dig into the ground and spin. Additionally, the handles are not as strong as they should be. I have to push the tiller hard to get it through the soil and the handles bend and twist. Runs like a champ, tills like a champ. I would not get this model again but a larger one.
@@CountryLivingExperience thank you so much for the honest review! I am grateful for it. God bless you and your family.
@@johnnymedina946 You're welcome. God bless brother!
Thx budd
You're welcome
Hi i am john from jamaica can u tell me the for the tiller
Base price $850
My used Troy wheels won’t turn.... if any, it turns very slowly...
Bummer
rake out the vines and burn them. Small pieces will make another run. Nice machine!
Troy- Built tillers are not built as well as they were before 2001. The company went bankrupt and another company bought them out. There just not the same as they were years ago. Used to be where you could only buy them from the factory but now the box stores sell them. If your wanting a good serious tiller then maybe check out BCS tillers.
I know. Mine is surely not as good as the one my Dad had in the 80's. BCS, while great, is not even in the same league as they cost 2.5 times what I paid for the Troy Built. BCS price puts them out of the hands of most.
@@CountryLivingExperience yes. BCS tillers are very expensive but if your going to be using it year after year then it's probably worth the money. I personally would like a small Kubota tractor with a 3 point hookup to plow up the ground then go over it with the Troy - Built that I have. I don't like being beat to death trying to bust up hard ground. Rear tine tillers tend to TAKE OFF if they hit hard ground or take off if you try to get them to dig down faster than normal. Gardening is a PASSION of mine but, I try to find the path of least resistance but then again I don't have a pile of money laying around either!
what is the price?
It was $799 when I bought it 4+ years ago. I am not sure if the price has changed. We got it at Lowes.
I just purchased this tiller at Tractor Supply. Price was ~800, shipping ~120, add in taxes, total invoice was $1006. The price hasn't changed in almost 5 years.
B
I just picked one up, the handle is cheaply made… feels like a toy
Yep. The one my dad had was indestructible.
Sorry i mean the price for troy tiiĺer.
No problem. This model is $800
I'm transitioning to . From male to female.