Had to laugh at the "retail therapy, just keep buying them, you'll feel better" comment. You are so right Rob. Thanks for doing these videos, they are truly keeping me sane these days! Cheers!
I would put roughing planes first just because you use them first but the first 7 planes will fill almost every need you can think of. Thanks, Rob. Thumbs up!
I thought I was the only one with a 10 1/2 and the blade is an absolute pain to remove. I do like my 140 for some of our Australian timbers, that laugh at the more traditional planes. Good presentation Rob.
After watching your old video on your top ten tools, I went out and started collecting. I’ve got them all now and you have taught me to sharpen them all. Thank you Rob!!!
Thank you for your latest video. Rob certainly has opened my eyes. To what planes I need for my wood. Working bigger appreciation have just ordered a 5 and a 1/2 off eBay waiting for it to turn up
Good information! I've been contemplating getting a shoulder plane. This just pushed me over the edge. You know it must be cold when Rob is wearing JEANS!
Errr but in another video you kinda seconded the shoulder plane, where you favored using a chisel (i think) for tenons and shoulders. Now I’m confused 😂
A question if I may? I have my go to setup that tackles 90% of my work. However I have a few boards that seemingly can't be planed in the conventional sense. Example, I have a piece of cocobolo that I can only get a good surface if I scrape or use a small block plane with an 80° combined bevel. This is very uncomfortable and hard on the users hand so I'm looking to invest in a dedicated setup for this task alone. I do prefer the quality of surface on the high angle setup as opposed to any scraped surface its just very uncomfortable to use for extended periods so I'm looking for a comfortable solution. My question is... For tackling nightmare grain alone,and if money wasn't an option, would you still pick the LN no 85 scraper over say, a LN no 164 low angle converted to an 80° high angle smoother?.
Your videos are always an education~! I don't have much of a plane collection at this point. My first purchase was a Lie-Nielson #5 1/2 Low-angle Jack plane, and later I picked up a regular #4 and #5 (Stanleys) in great condition at a couple of antique malls for beans. I noticed that you didn't have a low-angle in your top 10. Not something you use much?
Rob...thank you so much for the continued excellent content. I've been following your recommendations and every one of them is spot on. Just got my LN skew block plane and while that little bugger is a challenge to set up, it does the job well. I am curious about what adjustable lamps you use? I'm unable to find a big enough one that is not garbage...the one on your bench looks large and solid. Thanks again Rob!
Thanks Rob for the education on planes, Quick word of advice if you could, I have an opportunity to purchase a #6 fore plane made by a Canadian company Ideal, also a an old Fulton #8 and also a #7 Swedish made plane Jernbolaget or anchor I believe they are referred to. all three planes are in mint condition. Are you familiar with any of these planes and is their any advice you could offer, such as their worth and practicality. Thank you
Hey there Rob and Crew. I need a Stanley No 5/7 blade. Ive checked your site and i cant tell the difference between your IBC REVIVAL and regular IBC plane blade.
noticed your skew block plane is used in your left hand, have looked on lei nelson site and they offer right and left. i considered the right as im right hand dominated and seem to make more sense to me, or is it like the right or left hand hockey stick, thought id ask before i make a purchase! Cheers!
Anthony Steventon not used by my left hand, just held so I can show the features using my right hand. If you’re right handed, get a right skew, left, get a left.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking still struggling a little im right handed and when i compare the left and right i see using the left skew makes more since , the blade angle pulling the work piece towards the fence , maybe this staying at home is giving me brain farts ,
For my shooting board I use this hand plane. www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/70926-veritas-shooting-plane. There is more surface area in contact with the shooting board. That blade is skewed to cut the end grain better too.
WOW. How did I miss this one when it was released. Watch all your vids and live shows with out fail. Great over view. I'm still missing a few of these but I'll get there eventually as the need arises.you have helped me a lot in my woodworking journey. Thank you so much. My dream vacation would be to attend one of your Purple Heart workshops some day.
If you have a 4-1/2, 5-1/2 and a 7 do you really need a 6, and what purpose would it have. I have a 6 now, and am wondering if I really need it or should I get rid of it to make room for other tools.
If you look around and find some decent second hand tools, tune then up, you can have a decent hobbyist setup that can last you years. You'd spend maybe under 1,000 max. You'd also save your ears and earn a better hand to woof satisfaction unmatched by machining wood. For me, working with hand tools are beyond priceless. I do have powertools but theyre only for milling long, wide boards down to workable sizing. A decent powertool shop with having to change blades, buy oil, clean the top, change bearings, etc etc can run in the thousands. Im talking like table saw, band saw, scroll saw, jointer, planer, etc etc. Power tools are also much more space hungry amd heavy. I can just lug my tool cabinet in a vehicle and go in one trip.
I would put roughing planes first just because you use them first but the first 7 planes will fill almost every need you can think of. Thanks, Rob. Thumbs up!
I would put roughing planes first just because you use them first but the first 7 planes will fill almost every need you can think of. Thanks, Rob. Thumbs up!
I would put roughing planes first just because you use them first but the first 7 planes will fill almost every need you can think of. Thanks, Rob. Thumbs up!
I would put roughing planes first just because you use them first but the first 7 planes will fill almost every need you can think of. Thanks, Rob. Thumbs up!
Had to laugh at the "retail therapy, just keep buying them, you'll feel better" comment. You are so right Rob. Thanks for doing these videos, they are truly keeping me sane these days! Cheers!
I would put roughing planes first just because you use them first but the first 7 planes will fill almost every need you can think of. Thanks, Rob. Thumbs up!
I thought I was the only one with a 10 1/2 and the blade is an absolute pain to remove.
I do like my 140 for some of our Australian timbers, that laugh at the more traditional planes.
Good presentation Rob.
After watching your old video on your top ten tools, I went out and started collecting. I’ve got them all now and you have taught me to sharpen them all. Thank you Rob!!!
I can handle the squirrel tail plane very good, so fun to use. Thanks for all the info Rob.
Thank you for your latest video. Rob certainly has opened my eyes. To what planes I need for my wood. Working bigger appreciation have just ordered a 5 and a 1/2 off eBay waiting for it to turn up
Good information! I've been contemplating getting a shoulder plane. This just pushed me over the edge. You know it must be cold when Rob is wearing JEANS!
a few days each winter the wind blows hard enough and the mercury drops low enough that i dust off the long pants. so confining!
Nice concise summary.
Thank you and looking forward to my order coming on Monday!
Peter
Glad you liked it and I hope your order arrives, mail has been slower than normal.
Thank u rob so much useful advice.
Been checking daily for a 5-1/2 to be in stock so I can finally get my first real quality hand plane. Looks like it’s gonna be awhile 🤦🏻♂️
Chamfer plane seems like the most useful plane. Im am going to start looking for one.
Looks sweet doesn't it!
Great discussion Rob. Thanks.
Errr but in another video you kinda seconded the shoulder plane, where you favored using a chisel (i think) for tenons and shoulders. Now I’m confused 😂
Nice review as always Rob
A question if I may?
I have my go to setup that tackles 90% of my work.
However I have a few boards that seemingly can't be planed in the conventional sense. Example, I have a piece of cocobolo that I can only get a good surface if I scrape or use a small block plane with an 80° combined bevel. This is very uncomfortable and hard on the users hand so I'm looking to invest in a dedicated setup for this task alone.
I do prefer the quality of surface on the high angle setup as opposed to any scraped surface its just very uncomfortable to use for extended periods so I'm looking for a comfortable solution.
My question is...
For tackling nightmare grain alone,and if money wasn't an option, would you still pick the LN no 85 scraper over say, a LN no 164 low angle converted to an 80° high angle smoother?.
Your videos are always an education~! I don't have much of a plane collection at this point. My first purchase was a Lie-Nielson #5 1/2 Low-angle Jack plane, and later I picked up a regular #4 and #5 (Stanleys) in great condition at a couple of antique malls for beans. I noticed that you didn't have a low-angle in your top 10. Not something you use much?
Okay, oops on my part. You did show the low-angle block plane. Just curious about a larger low-angle one. :-)
Rob...thank you so much for the continued excellent content. I've been following your recommendations and every one of them is spot on. Just got my LN skew block plane and while that little bugger is a challenge to set up, it does the job well. I am curious about what adjustable lamps you use? I'm unable to find a big enough one that is not garbage...the one on your bench looks large and solid. Thanks again Rob!
Ikea sells them. Stem that goes in the hole in the base is the weak link.
The ideal quantity of a tools in your shop is n+1, where n is a current quantity.
Thanks Rob for the education on planes, Quick word of advice if you could, I have an opportunity to purchase a #6 fore plane made by a Canadian company Ideal, also a an old Fulton #8 and also a #7 Swedish made plane Jernbolaget or anchor I believe they are referred to. all three planes are in mint condition. Are you familiar with any of these planes and is their any advice you could offer, such as their worth and practicality. Thank you
Hi Rob, the skew block plane, did you show a left or right hand version? Could you explain the difference and how to identify one from the other?
Right. The open side when held in your hand ready to use determines which it is.
Thanks Rob
Hey there Rob and Crew. I need a Stanley No 5/7 blade. Ive checked your site and i cant tell the difference between your IBC REVIVAL and regular IBC plane blade.
Revival is for the Stanley
noticed your skew block plane is used in your left hand, have looked on lei nelson site and they offer right and left. i considered the right as im right hand dominated and seem to make more sense to me, or is it like the right or left hand hockey stick, thought id ask before i make a purchase! Cheers!
Anthony Steventon not used by my left hand, just held so I can show the features using my right hand. If you’re right handed, get a right skew, left, get a left.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking still struggling a little im right handed and when i compare the left and right i see using the left skew makes more since , the blade angle pulling the work piece towards the fence , maybe this staying at home is giving me brain farts ,
Get the right skew.
For my shooting board I use this hand plane. www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/70926-veritas-shooting-plane. There is more surface area in contact with the shooting board. That blade is skewed to cut the end grain better too.
3 weeks ago I looked at my shelf, 2 crappy planes 3 weeks later I have 50. I need to slow down.
What is the Lie-Nielson model number for the scraper plane that you had as your #10 pick? You said that it was modeled after the Stanley #85.
Never mind I figured it out.
WOW. How did I miss this one when it was released. Watch all your vids and live shows with out fail. Great over view. I'm still missing a few of these but I'll get there eventually as the need arises.you have helped me a lot in my woodworking journey. Thank you so much. My dream vacation would be to attend one of your Purple Heart workshops some day.
You didn’t miss it Brian, this is a video specifically for our newsletter subscribers! Our dream is for you to come as well!
If you have a 4-1/2, 5-1/2 and a 7 do you really need a 6, and what purpose would it have. I have a 6 now, and am wondering if I really need it or should I get rid of it to make room for other tools.
5 1/2 or 6, almost interchange.
Rob, is the only real difference between a smoother and other bench planes the relatively short sole compared to the blade width? Bed angle the same?
TomFugate yeah, main difference is the length of the sole. All of the frogs should be bedded at the same angle.
Left handed shot :) Are you a winger or defenseman? Great video Rob!
Winger with my age group, D with the young guns!
Rob, what do you think of the Japanese hand planes? Do you use any of them?
Ah, I dont think if them.
Ferners!
Hand tool wood working seems to be way more expensive than power tool wood working.
if you do the math, a good table saw will cost more than outfitting your shop with 4 planes, three saws, 3 chisels, your stones and measuring tools.
If you look around and find some decent second hand tools, tune then up, you can have a decent hobbyist setup that can last you years. You'd spend maybe under 1,000 max. You'd also save your ears and earn a better hand to woof satisfaction unmatched by machining wood. For me, working with hand tools are beyond priceless. I do have powertools but theyre only for milling long, wide boards down to workable sizing. A decent powertool shop with having to change blades, buy oil, clean the top, change bearings, etc etc can run in the thousands. Im talking like table saw, band saw, scroll saw, jointer, planer, etc etc. Power tools are also much more space hungry amd heavy. I can just lug my tool cabinet in a vehicle and go in one trip.
Can anyone recommend a skew block plane or workable alternative that isn’t nearly $500?
You didn't include your own draw bottom plane
It doesn’t look like Lie-Nielsen sells those skew block planes anymore. ☹️
I would put roughing planes first just because you use them first but the first 7 planes will fill almost every need you can think of. Thanks, Rob. Thumbs up!
I would put roughing planes first just because you use them first but the first 7 planes will fill almost every need you can think of. Thanks, Rob. Thumbs up!
I would put roughing planes first just because you use them first but the first 7 planes will fill almost every need you can think of. Thanks, Rob. Thumbs up!
I would put roughing planes first just because you use them first but the first 7 planes will fill almost every need you can think of. Thanks, Rob. Thumbs up!