When we talked on messager a while back, the way I interpreted it was- draw a line from tip to pivot/centerling of the knife ( at least that's the way I see it on a PM2, might be different with different blades )
It’s basically the same thing. Just with different knives the center pivots can cause the line to be off. So just worrying about the tip gives less for me to think about
Yea that was just the way it finally clicked for my brain, lol. After I REALLY got what you're saying I was like "oh, well I guess that wont always work, but at least I can figure it out now"
@@GunnysSharptalk all I knew is when I did the heel to tip line, it didnt work so I though "I should consult an expert before I ruin my brand new K390 PM2" lol
I appreciate the video clarification. It was just a difference in terminology I guess... I think I understand it now but I think of it as "leading edge of clamp parallel to line bisecting tip and centerline of blade".... but if I said that sentence to someone else they'd probably look at me like I was speaking french! Lol
I'm sorry, unfortunately I still don't fully understand the approach. What is the reference point for the imaginary tip line? Is it the pivot screw, the middle of the blade height or a line 90 ° to the heel of the blade?
@@GunnysSharptalk thank you for your reply. I believe, we talk past each other. I basically understand your approach. My problem is that I don't quite understand how a tip (a dot) can be parallel to the front of the clamp (a line). Surely, I could roughly align it so that it is roughly parallel. However, this would not make it reproducible, which will certainly get me into trouble in future grinding work. In order to make the whole thing reproducible, a reproducible, exact tip line would be needed. At least I think so. To get such a line, one needs a starting (tip) and end point (???). My question now is, what is the end point for this (tip) line (pivot screw, middle of blade height, 90° of heel)?
@@GunnysSharptalk I'm sorry, but what do you mean with "corner point"? Is this a blade shape specific thing? What would be the corner point of a benchmade bugout for exampel?
Can you clarify what the second point is from the tip? Ie two points in a line. I’m seeing or guessing from tip straight back to the line that forms off the grind where they put the steel name. Then you keep that imaginary line parallel to the clamp jaw line?
Actually better than I had expected. I will do a video after about a month or so in the pocket everyday and we shall see. At this point I really like it for a work knife.
Hey good morning Gunny my names Ben you probably don’t remember me bc we met along time in a sharping group. But have question i want to ask you about an issue I’m having with my pm2, so please message me back when you get a chance.
@@GunnysSharptalk thanks man it’s gonna be hard to explain, but i took it apart and took a couple pictures and a short video of the issue. So if you have an email address i could send it to for you to look at it would be a lot easier. But I bought a Pm2 in S35vn probably a year ago. And i never noticed this bc i had it put up (i have 4 pm2’s) anyway the other day i was checking it out and. The part of the blade that meets the liner when it’s open, has a little piece of steel missing on the side/front of the tang and im just wanting to know if you think it’s gonna be an issue, but like i say you’ll have to see it to see what I’m talking about.
Thanks for clarifying.
When we talked on messager a while back, the way I interpreted it was- draw a line from tip to pivot/centerling of the knife ( at least that's the way I see it on a PM2, might be different with different blades )
It’s basically the same thing. Just with different knives the center pivots can cause the line to be off. So just worrying about the tip gives less for me to think about
Yea that was just the way it finally clicked for my brain, lol. After I REALLY got what you're saying I was like "oh, well I guess that wont always work, but at least I can figure it out now"
Nathen Wallis Right. I’m not even sure when I started doing that. I didn’t really think about it until someone asked
@@GunnysSharptalk all I knew is when I did the heel to tip line, it didnt work so I though "I should consult an expert before I ruin my brand new K390 PM2" lol
I appreciate the video clarification. It was just a difference in terminology I guess... I think I understand it now but I think of it as "leading edge of clamp parallel to line bisecting tip and centerline of blade".... but if I said that sentence to someone else they'd probably look at me like I was speaking french! Lol
I'm sorry, unfortunately I still don't fully understand the approach. What is the reference point for the imaginary tip line? Is it the pivot screw, the middle of the blade height or a line 90 ° to the heel of the blade?
The tip and the front line of the clamp. The tip needs to be parallel or pointed in the same direction or on the same line as the front of the clamp.
@@GunnysSharptalk thank you for your reply. I believe, we talk past each other. I basically understand your approach. My problem is that I don't quite understand how a tip (a dot) can be parallel to the front of the clamp (a line). Surely, I could roughly align it so that it is roughly parallel. However, this would not make it reproducible, which will certainly get me into trouble in future grinding work. In order to make the whole thing reproducible, a reproducible, exact tip line would be needed. At least I think so. To get such a line, one needs a starting (tip) and end point (???). My question now is, what is the end point for this (tip) line (pivot screw, middle of blade height, 90° of heel)?
@@crucii5 OK. Use the tip as a starting point for your line and use the corner point as your end point.
@@GunnysSharptalk I'm sorry, but what do you mean with "corner point"? Is this a blade shape specific thing? What would be the corner point of a benchmade bugout for exampel?
@@crucii5 as soon as I get a chance I will make another video to attempt to illustrate what I am talking about
Can you clarify what the second point is from the tip? Ie two points in a line.
I’m seeing or guessing from tip straight back to the line that forms off the grind where they put the steel name.
Then you keep that imaginary line parallel to the clamp jaw line?
Draw an imaginary line from the tip to the pivot
Does depth play a part at all in how far back the knife is in the clamp?
How’s the s45 holding up?
Actually better than I had expected. I will do a video after about a month or so in the pocket everyday and we shall see. At this point I really like it for a work knife.
Hey good morning Gunny my names Ben you probably don’t remember me bc we met along time in a sharping group. But have question i want to ask you about an issue I’m having with my pm2, so please message me back when you get a chance.
What’s your question sir? I will be on and offline, but I will answer your question as soon as I am back on.
@@GunnysSharptalk thanks man it’s gonna be hard to explain, but i took it apart and took a couple pictures and a short video of the issue. So if you have an email address i could send it to for you to look at it would be a lot easier. But I bought a Pm2 in S35vn probably a year ago. And i never noticed this bc i had it put up (i have 4 pm2’s) anyway the other day i was checking it out and. The part of the blade that meets the liner when it’s open, has a little piece of steel missing on the side/front of the tang and im just wanting to know if you think it’s gonna be an issue, but like i say you’ll have to see it to see what I’m talking about.
@@brodyberry6253 message me the video in FB messenger if you can under Scott Gunn. Emails get buried really fast.