300 WSM brass converted into 6.8 Western, a quick overview of brass conversions and tools I use.
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- Опубликовано: 5 авг 2024
- Going over some of the tools I use and ones that will be needed for converting brass cases into what you need. In this video I am doing an overview on 300 WSM into 6.8 Western.
I use 7.62x39 for my 6.5 Grendel, 223 Remington for 222 Remington, 300 AAC/Blackout, and will be using it for 277 Wolverine in the near future, 308 WIN for 338 Federal, 7mm-08, 6.5 Creedmoor, and 6mm Creedmoor. (308 can be used for many others) Sometimes I use 234 WIN for my Creedmoor's
A lot of what I convert has more to do with price than availability. A good example would be 243 WIN into 260 Remington, one only needs to size it to 260 and in most cases the 243 is a lot cheaper than 260. Cost as well as availability may play a part in getting into brass conversions like I did.
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I picked up the trim die you recommended. Thank you! Lapua is now making 300 WSM brass so I plan to re-work some down. ADG will be releasing 6.8 Western brass too
Looking forward to seeing more about the 6.8 western. You’re video about shortening the barrel on your 6.8 western, really peaked my interest. Seems like it could be a great candidate for an all around mountain rifle.
holy smokes brother. this is great information. thank you so much!
I would be interested in your 308 to 6.5 creed conversion video. I love any reloading video
Good information. Thanks for sharing.
Outstanding!
Excellent
Do you think this would be possible using 7mm saum brass? And was also wondering if a Lee quick trim case trimmer die could be used to cut that much off. Thanks for making this video I enjoy all of them u put out!
I would have to look at the specs of the brass, if the base is the same the rest should resize. Most case trimmers will work it's just when you're trimming that much off you can't get in a hurry it digs into fast and messes up your brass.
Okay I think the base diameter is the same. Hopefully somebody will make some brass for it at some point besides Winchester. I love the 6.8 western and hope
It doesn’t die!
@@baileyayers4271 It's everything the 270 short mag should have been. I am absolutely loving it as a everything in the lower 48 gun.
I did the same conversion with 270 wsm brass. I found there is a donut shape bump around the bottom of the neck due to the increasing thickness from the shoulder. Will that affect neck tension?
I trim the necks evenly to help with that if I'm struggling with SD'S.
So after you fire this brass and want to reload it, you should just use an unmodified shell holder and 6.8 western die and shouldn't need to bump the shoulder back again using the modified shell holder, does that sound right?
Correct
@@simplemindedfella Perfect, Thank You Sir.
So I have been trying to convert 300wsm to 6.8 but it’s not working am I missing something
you have to bump the shoulder back a few ten-thousands back past standard length in order to get them to chamber for the first fringing (fire forming). Other than a shoulder crushing occasionally moving that much brass, as long as I bump the shoulder back far enough I haven't had any issues with using 270 and 300 WSM brass for my 6.8 western.
Am I missing something here? I trimmed my brass with the jig, resized with full length die and then a more accurate trim to 2.020 and the brass won’t chamber. Did I miss a step?
I chamfer and debur after every trim too
@@justinnolan9443 You have to bump the shoulder back far enough then it will chamber. I use a wet stone and shave off my shell holder to get a little more than a couple 10 thousands and then adjust with the die and keep bumping that shoulder back till it chambers smoothly.
@@justinnolan9443 You shouldn't feel any resistance when you're opening and closing the bolt. Then you'll know you've bumped that shoulder back far enough, a touch too far is not gonna hurt anything and is better than not bumping it back far enough.
Are you using a 300 WSM jig from 3D Design? I don't see it listed on their website. Also how much did you mill off the shell holder? I would like to see a video on 308 to 6.5CM... Thank you!! Great video!
Your welcome glad you enjoyed.
I milled 2 tenthousands off shell holder. The way brass flows when you're sizing/converting it you need to bump that shoulder back just a tad extra so that your headspace is correct and the case doesn't fit to tight in the chamber. I just throw the brass in my rifle and check and make sure it fits the chamber properly I don't have a headspace gauge for these.
3D Design doesn't have it listed. I asked if they did or had considered making one for this use and they didn't/hadn't so they printed me one. As far as I know I have the only one. If you email them and mention you saw it used in a video by Simple Minded Fella on RUclips they should be able to print another. If they get enough interest it may be something they list in the future.
Just remember regardless of what it is when you're cutting brass on a little cut wheel like that you don't get a perfectly straight cut, mostly because cases are tapered, leave them just a little long, you want to do a finished trim on a regular trimmer.
The jig is not necessary but really comes in handy when you're doing large batches it goes so much quicker than just sizing the brass and then using your regular trimmer to trim it that far down.
I should have a video done and uploaded sometime shortly after the 1st of the year for converting 308 win into Creedmoor. I may just do one on 6mm Creedmoor because the process is the same for 6.5 CM and I need to do another batch of 6mm CM soon.
@@simplemindedfella I have tried 308 to 6.5 CM brass conversion,, my shell holder I sanded down by .002, trimmed the cases on a Lyman universal trimmer, and resized them,,, I can get the brass into the chamber, I'm having mixed results,, I get a few the bolt will close up, slightly stiff,,,, others the bolt won't close,,, any suggestions?
@@trailboy68 You need to take a little bit more off your shell holder until the bolt closes like it should after you size the brass, you can also get a headspace gage and use that instead of your chamber. (A head space gage would be the proper way to check them) The bolt should close smoothly if it's not the shoulder still needs bumped back you may find it's closing good but when you fire it the brass still sticks a little when ejecting, ( I've only had one rifle with it still sticking a bit and bumping it back just a tad more completely eliminated that) bump that shoulder back a little bit more.
@@simplemindedfella cool thank you, I'll sand it down some more, I appreciate your help!,, once I get this figured out, I'll probably have someone mill one down so it is more concentric,,,, Do you think it makes a difference that I'm using one fired military brass?
@@trailboy68 it's not exactly the same but will still work.
If you fire form it then use an unmodified shell holder for resizing you should be all good to go.
I start load development when I am fire forming and have found in most cases it shoots just as well before fire forming. Every time you switch brass manufacturers you really should start load development over. Once I have my load and have determined fire forming is not nessary then I will skip that step with the rest of that batch of brass for the savings.
Do you have a approximate length of the cut off from the 300 case. Thanks
I cut them off at 2.020 size them into 6.8 Western the finnish trim them to length. You can cut them at 2.015 and they size to 6.8 Western trim length but I like a more precise trim at the end.
Thank you, ordering my case guide and cutter
Finally put everything together, and followed your instructions.300 wsm ,nosler brass to 6.8 western. Thank you again.
Would it be even simpler to convert from 270wsm?
yes
Hay bud I got the whole kit from 3D printers I did exactly what you said but not getting it to chamber in my gun is there a email I can message you . Any help would be most appreciated
Most likely, you need to bump the shoulder back further. Take some more off the shell holder and keep bumping the shoulder back a little bit at a time until you chamber it. (Sorry, I don't currently have access to my email and need to get that taken care of)
Thank you buddy do you have a Instagram or Facebook account were I could message once again truly appriciate all the help .
@justinllanes1999 nope. I ditched everything but the RUclips channel in 2020 and have no plans on ever doing anything with social media besides the RUclips channel. I really need to get more done with RUclips.
What sizing die do you use?
I shave two-thenthousands or so off a shell holder and go directly to a 6.8 Western die. You have to bump the shoulder back further to get it to chamber. Having a go-no go gauge is best to test.
So...... 6.8 western is basically a necked down 300wsm? Very interesting!
They basically changed the angle of the shoulder bumped it back a bit so longer heavier bullets could be used without obstructing the power as bad and made the 270WSM into what it should have been originally but they built the 270WSM around the bullets on the market and with the 6.8 Western they developed new bullets longer and heavier with much higher ballistic coefficiencies. They didn't re invent the wheel they just made it a little sleaker and more efficient. Kind of how the 300 PRC is a slightly improved 300WM and the new 7mm PRC is a slightly improved 7mm Rem Mag.
Something I haven't done here and I enjoyed the education! I run 308, 6.5 and 243. So I could size any of the 3 potentially to use as one of the other. I had heard talk of this by others but never tried.
Thank you my friend.
Keep'em coming!
This is bs i have tired resizing 270 wsm to 6.8 western many times and it just crashes the shoulders
The only 270 wsm brass I have is nickel plated winchester brass, and i've had no issues with it converting to 6.8 Western.
You can try things like annealing or running your brass through the seizer slower or quicker (my 300 wsm FC brass dose not like it when its run through the sizer slowly). Try to figure out what exactly what is causing your shoulder to crush when others aren't having that issue. Possibility its just c***** brass and you need to go with a different brand.
@@simplemindedfella I think you hit the nail on the head. The person should anneal the cases to lessen that issue and likely confirm his die set up