I had the same problem with the then new powder-coated finish on my Ruby wheels (about 10 years ago), a job to get off! I too sanded off the powder-coating in the contact area, which on mine was mostly around the taper, did all 5 wheels. I sprayed the bare metal with grease from an aerosol, every time a wheel comes off, just give it a whizz, hasn't rusted and the car has been in use for over 8 years and I live by the sea, so worked a treat. The starting handle on Rubies should be at rest in the "quarter to nine" position, there is a detent in the case (inside) and the only tingling sound should be from the brass sleeve to the handle itself - it looks as if your starting handle is missing its spring, fits inside the nose cone, yours looks as if it is a bit loose, to stop the tingling of the brass sleeve, I cut a bit off a bike inner tube and slid this over the sleeve/handle at the far end and that works well. You need a rubber boot for the starter motor live feed! Does the engine rumble change when you depress the clutch pedal? Big ends are white metalled and generally give good service, if you have "run a bearing" that will be self-evident when you remove the sump & the gauze filter - there will be solder everywhere, the noise did not sound like that. Could be a broken lip to the crankcase, which would allow the front bearings to move fore & aft, or the rear bearing, which can deteriorate if the car is not used much, rust can form on the rollers making it sound rough. All the bearings are available and repairs can be done if it is the crankcase lip - mine failed last winter and in the coldest two weeks before Christmas, I took the thing apart, sent the crankcase away for repair & re-built it outside, I must have been mad! Good to see your progress and glad to hear that you have been using the car! Await news on the engine problem! Good luck!
Thank you, lots of great tips there. The engine is out now so gradually taking bits off. The starting handle does need a spring but the cone is worn inside so we have never been able to put the handle in its rest position. Maybe with the cone off we can repair that? The big ends look and feel tight so it could be the bearings? We have a very slight wobble of the flywheel but such a tiny amount. We both are learning on the job but have some helpful enthusiasts living nearby. We are in North Kent if you are every in the area and want to take a look?
Agree with all the above. Engine noise could also be a the flywheel come loose on its taper. I had to sort issues with both main bearings and the flywheel to get mine running and sounding right.
We have a very slight movement of the flywheel. It doesn't feel enough to cause the noise but I have zero experience and learning as I go. The engine is out now so maybe we will find something else?
Looks like you've got a fair amount of sealant around the head gasket - is this to prevent water leaks? I ask because after having quite a bit of work done on my 1935 Ruby I can't seem to get rid of a leak from what seems to be part of the head gasket. Any suggestions welcome!
The thrust bearing has always been noisy. Now the engine is out we can maybe fix that before putting it back. Not sure how big that job is yet. We are willing to give most things a go but only have basic tools and little knowledge.
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Cracking little Austin you have there love the colour looking forward to seeing the next update
Thank you. The engine is going to be running again soon.
I had the same problem with the then new powder-coated finish on my Ruby wheels (about 10 years ago), a job to get off! I too sanded off the powder-coating in the contact area, which on mine was mostly around the taper, did all 5 wheels. I sprayed the bare metal with grease from an aerosol, every time a wheel comes off, just give it a whizz, hasn't rusted and the car has been in use for over 8 years and I live by the sea, so worked a treat.
The starting handle on Rubies should be at rest in the "quarter to nine" position, there is a detent in the case (inside) and the only tingling sound should be from the brass sleeve to the handle itself - it looks as if your starting handle is missing its spring, fits inside the nose cone, yours looks as if it is a bit loose, to stop the tingling of the brass sleeve, I cut a bit off a bike inner tube and slid this over the sleeve/handle at the far end and that works well.
You need a rubber boot for the starter motor live feed!
Does the engine rumble change when you depress the clutch pedal?
Big ends are white metalled and generally give good service, if you have "run a bearing" that will be self-evident when you remove the sump & the gauze filter - there will be solder everywhere, the noise did not sound like that.
Could be a broken lip to the crankcase, which would allow the front bearings to move fore & aft, or the rear bearing, which can deteriorate if the car is not used much, rust can form on the rollers making it sound rough.
All the bearings are available and repairs can be done if it is the crankcase lip - mine failed last winter and in the coldest two weeks before Christmas, I took the thing apart, sent the crankcase away for repair & re-built it outside, I must have been mad!
Good to see your progress and glad to hear that you have been using the car! Await news on the engine problem! Good luck!
Thank you, lots of great tips there.
The engine is out now so gradually taking bits off.
The starting handle does need a spring but the cone is worn inside so we have never been able to put the handle in its rest position. Maybe with the cone off we can repair that?
The big ends look and feel tight so it could be the bearings? We have a very slight wobble of the flywheel but such a tiny amount.
We both are learning on the job but have some helpful enthusiasts living nearby. We are in North Kent if you are every in the area and want to take a look?
its looking very nice well done , can you tell me where you got your replaement guttering please , i need some for my 7
Our guttering came with the car. I’ve seen some at an autojumble. The A7ca.org have a list of suppliers on the home page.
thanks for that@@classicandvintagecars
Agree with all the above. Engine noise could also be a the flywheel come loose on its taper. I had to sort issues with both main bearings and the flywheel to get mine running and sounding right.
We have a very slight movement of the flywheel. It doesn't feel enough to cause the noise but I have zero experience and learning as I go. The engine is out now so maybe we will find something else?
A knock whilst the engine is under load is likely to be a big-end; a loose flywheel will knock on the over-run.@@classicandvintagecars
Looks like you've got a fair amount of sealant around the head gasket - is this to prevent water leaks? I ask because after having quite a bit of work done on my 1935 Ruby I can't seem to get rid of a leak from what seems to be part of the head gasket. Any suggestions welcome!
Most noise comes from timing gears cam shaft rumble in the car its the gearbox.
Lots of noises but a great fun car
@@classicandvintagecars Take it to the A7 national rally at Beuleiu
Why did you restart an engine that has a suspected bottom end issue!?! 😮
Does the starting handle lock at 9 oclock as it should do
No ours doesn’t the inside of the nose cone has worn away
Babbitted bearings?
Is it clutch thrust bearing noise? If you press the clutch will the noise stop?
The thrust bearing has always been noisy. Now the engine is out we can maybe fix that before putting it back. Not sure how big that job is yet. We are willing to give most things a go but only have basic tools and little knowledge.