Old alkaline batteries contained mercury, which made them resistant to leaking. The mercury was there to absorb the hydrogen gas, which builds internal pressure when the battery is used, causing them to leak. Newer alkaline batteries don't have mercury, because it's harmful to the environment when disposed. Unfortunately, the mercury free batteries leak much sooner - many of them long before their 'use by' date, even if you've never used them. Now you've replaced the batteries, you should check the camera more frequently. The modern rechargeable Ni-mh batteries, with a low self-discharge rate, are a good alternative: less likely to leak; but they're only nominally 1.2 Volts per cell instead of 1.5 volts, so some equipment won't work with them.
It's hard to believe there isn't anything non-toxic that would work as a replacement hydrogen control. The way no-mercury alkalines leak is ridiculous and has driven me to NiMH and LFP rechargeables for everything but truly disposable uses.
That's the downfall of the adoption of rechargeables - lack of voltage. If there were more of a push to create true 1.5V rechargeables, we could finally start to see a decrease in disposable battery usage.
Because of you I dug out my mom’s clunky old Nikon from the 1970s when I was at her house and decided to give it a try. It weighs like 20 lbs but it takes beautiful pictures! But it was such a pain to learn about all the settings because I had no idea what I was doing at first.
Also dug my mom's old Zenit recently! Used a BnW film. She said the camera has some sand grain somewhere and the photos have some kind of scratch, I'll just have to wait to get the film developed.
@@maxir4k usually where that happens is on the metal pressure plate that keeps the film flat (between the back of the camera and the film). That's usually the prime suspect because it's physically pressed across the film. A dry, soft brush might dislodge a tiny piece of grit that's being dragged along the film as you advance it.
Fun to see that these batteries lasted a decade without going flat, let alone leaking Clive recently made a video about, and with, exploded alkaline batteries. funny to see these two extremes so close together
@@Alexander_l322 yeah it's weird how one creator will think of something and then a few others will think of the samething and they won't know it until they all upload. There was a video a while back that talked about how multiple versions of the same kind of movie would come out and one with die and one would blow the box office.
@@ke6gwf Most likely. Duracell ia a major brand of alkaline batteries. I would not be surprised if certain store chains had paid Duracell to put their brand labels on the batteries to be put in their stores alongside official Duracell batteries, and being cheaper than duracell batteries, but making both Duracell and those stores money at the same time. Least, I would assume such to be the case.
First off: I love your videos! I just received a T-90 for Christmas. I hadn't played with it until I saw this video. I put and some fresh batteries and sure enough, the shutter was locked. The displays showed the EEEE error. My heart sank. I really wanted to shoot some film. Thankfully, your depth-of-field preview trick worked! Now, it shoots just fine. It was so serendipitous I caught your video when I did. Keep up the good work.
Remember that the depth of field lever only works when you disengage the automatic aperture control. To to this, just avoid that the red dot on the lens and the red dot on the camera are facing. In practice: choose an aperture on the LENS itself and try to operate the lever.
I just wanted you to know that your videos on film encouraged me to get Grandpa's A-1 out and shoot some film. I'd love to see a video on camera flash technology.
My late grandfather owned and operated a camera store for most of his adult life. He could disassemble and reassemble one of those without even looking at a service manual. I mean the _whole thing_. I remember as a kid it completely blew my mind.
I'm collecting analog multimeters, and one of my units had R10 batteries with expiry date of 1989, and they were still kind of working ;) another unit had Panasonic Special AA (R6) batteries (one with a green apple logo) from 1994 and they were completely fine (unit itself was brand new in a box).
I remember those Panasonic batteries with 'apple' logo I remember getting them at the dollar store. I don't know why they had that icon on there maybe they made a bunch for Apple and then they didn't use them or maybe it was some sort of internal code.
I was given an old mutlimeter must have been from the 60's, I cant remember the model without going into the shed, but years ago I pulled out an old No412 22 and a half Volt Battery from it. It had a date written in Texta from 1980. and its dead of course but no leakage.
Man I can appreciate collecting them but I HATE analog meters. I work in a call center doing over the phone troubleshooting and having a customer tell me they have an analog meter when a difference of a quarter volt is going to change my troubleshooting drasitcally pisses me off. Is there something they're doing wrong or are digital meters just fantastically better in every way?
It's always amazing to find old, not leaking, still working batteries in devices. About a year ago I was going through some stored stuff and heard a noise. It was coming from an old toy power tool from my childhood. It had a C size Energizer battery without an expiration date that could have been installed no later than 1993 and it still has some power and hadn't leaked.
HEAVY DUTY batteries have a different chemistry, so they don’t leak like Alkaline batteries do. Unfortunately heavy duty batteries only hold Half as much energy, so you’re only buying half the lifespan .
HEAVY DUTY batteries have a different chemistry, so they don’t leak like Alkaline batteries do. Unfortunately heavy duty batteries only hold Half as much energy, so you’re only buying half the lifespan .
I was once told by an old electrical engineer that those kinds of batteries only leak when there is a low parasitic draw on them. To help prevent this from happening, he said he always put a mechanical disconnect for the power on electronics he designed which took AA batteries (assuming the person actually used it). Basically all electronics have a parasitic draw unless they have a mechanical disconnect, which is normally a switch that all the power for the device goes through.
Dunno, with online battery shopping roulette these days it hasn't been uncommon for me to get a sealed pack of batteries with a few already leaking inside
The original Gameboy has a real mechanical switch that powers it off, I'm not totally familiar with the schematics but usually the death of a Gameboy is casued by leaky batteries that were left in before it was stored away.
This camera does have a tiny parasitic draw in order to run the clock and keep the settings memory active and that might help explain why they lasted so long. I'm quite confused at which situations make alkalines leak as some devices are almost guaranteed to cause leakage while others seem protective. Two separate 2AA battery boxes that I used for a project a few years back both have physical switches to disconnect the cells from any load, yet the most negative cell in each pack leaked so badly this year that much of the metal inside is ruined. The 2nd, more "positive" battery in each box was absolutely fine and their voltages measure like new. I had to throw away the "negative" cells. Meanwhile, I've never personally had AA's leak while running an old-fashioned analog clock. They *will* leak, however, if you put the clock in storage and the cells continue discharging long after the clock stops running. Draining them past "empty" is very likely to cause a leak. I think Alkalines tend to *like* tiny loads like old wall clocks and such and I was taught that this actually reduces their self-discharge rate. In other words, alkaline cells might last longer actually running devices with tiny loads than they would sitting in a drawer. This camera might have actually *extended* the life of these cells.
My old boss at the office used to be a cheap prick with giving us AA batteries for our pagers. When he retired we cleaned out his office and to all our laughter found TONS of expired batteries, new in blister pack or box, some of them with expiration dates of 93 - 00 (this was back in 15 when he left) and many were leaking or crusty. Energizer industrial and Duracell.
So thrilled to see you geeking over these film cameras! I have my dad's old Minolta SRT-303b (aka, 202 here in the US), and this is inspiring me to load it up and shoot film again for the first time in more than 20 years (when I also used a Canon F-1).
Semi-related to the bit about the shutter, I completely forgot I used my camera for some long exposure photography (probably some light drawing), and had the shutter set to 30 seconds. I went to go take a picture a few days later and had to stand there like an absolute lemon waiting for it to cancel!
I do this all the time! I wish there was a cancel button for this stuff on DSLRs. It's why I always have the 2 second timer on when doing long exposure. If it beeps during the day I know to hit the flash button to cancel the timer and revert my settings.
I have a 1980's answering machine remote control (remember those?) from the 80's. it runs on two AAA cells. there's several buttons on it, which when pressed, it makes various beeps and tones to operate the answering machine for when you call in. I was given the answering machine (non working) and remote some time around 1995, and gutted the answering machine for parts. But the remote I kept since it was fun to press the buttons to hear the tones. Well, it's 2021 and it's STILL on the same batteries and it still works! I think the batteries are the same ones it shipped with when it was new, so they have to be 35 years old at this point.
I just repaired my T90 shutter, even though I have been exercising it monthly for years. The latest heat wave here in the west turned a rubber part in the shutter to goo. Taking it apart requires dexterity, good eyesight, thin #00 Philips screwdriver and the repair manual. Works like a champ now... Still it's getting more difficult to buy good film for reasonable prices.
I bought an old Panasonic tape recorder a few years ago that came with four very old Kodak "Supralife" Alkaline AA batteries inside with date codes of 86-05, which probably means May of 1986. I was extremely surprised when I tested the tape recorder and it ran just fine with those batteries. I just tested them again today, and they still work and are all at around 1.45 volts.
Wow that's impressive. I thought my experience with old batteries was impressive. You've got a decade on me. Earlier this year I bought the same Casio calculator I had in high school from late 90's from eBay. It had the original batteries with a date of '96 on them and had not leaked. They were Casio branded and made in Japan. And still had a small amount of charge left in them.
A few years ago I was given a box of random electronics from my old landlord, and inside them was a pair of portable powered speakers with Energizer batteries from the 80s. They were absolutely dead flat, but they hadn't leaked whatsoever. That genuinely surprised me.
Had a package of Kirkland AAA's and many of the remaining ones all swelled and leaked considerably. Beyond what I've seen in others. The AA's have been fine though. Both purchased at the same time.
@@Andyjpro plausible. Also plausible there was something different with the manufacturing of them that caused a different lifespan dispite the same manufacturer. Larger components tend to be easier to build more sturdy than small ones.
Kirkland batteries at least from 2018 have been OEM by Duracell, and recently, at least in the UK I've seen a lot of leaked ones... Personally changing everything over to "Low Self Discharge" NiMh ones for safety.
I'm so used to the length of your usual videos that these short ones leave me feeling almost abandoned! I had to rewatch your train journey one again last night to rebalance my equilibrium...
What a coincidence. This video comes 1 day after Big Clive posted a video about leaking Alkalines and why it's better to only use modern Ni-MH batteries instead.
The same thing happened when I had to use my grandmother's old camera for my photography class and it somehow still had batteries working from the 80s and continued working throughout the semester (and as far as I know, they still work)
I have a Radio Shack remote switch for the Christmas tree that I bought in 1995 or so. I've never changed the batteries and because of this video, I checked them. They are not leaking and they still work through 2021. Amazing. Thanks.
I have been trying to find batteries for my Canon FT-QL. It takes (or took) some special mercury battery that is no longer produced. I've read I can use a zinc-air battery (which lasts only months) or an adapter (which is sold out everywhere). Ah the joys of early TTL metering.
You can also try a silver oxide battery and figure out how much you need to adjust the exposure for the higher voltage. Personally I like using zinc air, a couple months of use seems like plenty to me. Alec said he uses super cheap zinc air hearing aid batteries with an adapter for his F1.
@@centurybug Yeah, the zinc-air hearing aid batteries are dirt cheap and the ones you don't use of the six-pack will last for ages unopened. I bought some for my OM-1 and didn't bother with an adapter or fiddling with the exposure controls. It works fine with them.
@@TheManFrayBentos After my current weincell gives up the ghost, I'll probably try to figure out hearing aid batteries. It seems like a pretty optimal solution!
I get your feels for the old camera. I'm stilling hanging on to an Olympus OM-1 that was already vintage when I got it (long enough ago that it would be vintage now even if it weren't then). Not merely analog, but fully mechanical with a rolling shutter that goes down to 1/1000 second. Well, _almost_ fully mechanical. The light meter needs a battery to function, but the camera can operate just fine without that battery or the light meter.
@@thecaveofthedead Indeed it is. It's a real shame that mine, which I bought second hand in the late seventies, has recently developed an odd fault where it will only work upside down (!) - I think a broken spring on the release latch. But it is aesthetically a delight, and its small size and weight compared to many SLRs of the time (and wonderful Zuiko optics) means that one day I will get around to repairing it.
@@neilbarnes3557 Beware of the sticky mirror damper foam and the foam that cushions the prism. Both can be cleaned with a strip-down, but if left, the mirror gets stuck and the prism gets ruined. Not beyond use, but it's ugly. I have an OM-1 with those faults, but it's still useable. My VF on my Mamiya 645J suffers from the same, but I wonder if I can remove the foam and re-silver the damaged areas.
Amazing. Recently I have found a few devices that still had working batteries. Although not the same type, my original PS2 from 2000 still has the functioning clock battery (CR-2032) last I checked it was still at 3V. I also have a couple SNES games with batteries that still keep the SRAM going from the 90s. It doesn't seem like they make them like that anymore.
Recently started playing on my old slimline PS2. The battery sure is done for, but instead the PS2 is still counting days from the date at which i started reusing it. Its somewhere at 7-2000 now. It also looks kinda weird when my old save files still have the right date but newer saves from now on all show xx-xx-00 instead of example: 23-05-07 (european date format). It’ll probably reset back to 1-1-2000 when i unplug it from mains.
@@tapehead-jeff I'm going to get my PlayStation 2 out for the first time in 10+ years, and today I learned there's a battery in it 😅 But your comment reassured me so much, I'll be able to do it with less anxiety, phew! Thanks!! 🌟
A+ Hanukkah content right here. A power source that was rated for a limited amount of time lasted much longer in practice. A true holiday miracle. Ramble on, good sir. Ramble on.
Most Kirkland batteries I’ve used never leaked. Most Duracells I have used never leaked either, though the Duracells leaked more than the Kirklands. I just started trying Energizers and they haven’t leaked yet, but the capacity is disappointing compared to Duracell or Kirkland. I have an Oculus Go and the remote takes one AA, EVERY battery I have put in that thing leaks. The remote always draws a significant amount of power so that kills the cells faster. My dad gave me an old AT&T phone from an elevator, I took it apart just to find two Duracells that said use by March of 2000.
Duracells changed the way they make batteries a few years ago and now they are extremely prone to leaking, while Energizer has improved. Really though, if you are that concerned about leaking get name brand "heavy duty" zinc-carbon batteries. In devices with low current use that you still use often, they are more likely to die before they leak, so you replace them before it becomes a problem. The modern ones are much better at leak resistance than the older ones, and the chemistry inside is much less corrosive than that in alkaline batteries.
I love the antique Kodak Brownie(?) on the shelf. I had one when I was 10 or 12 years old. Only 8 B&W shots, and it cost a few dollars in 1959, which is like $50 today, so you had to really be sure of what to shoot. Not like today, where bazillions of shots cost nothing. I actually took a photo of my meal once, in a dimly-lit restaurant, so I could see what I was eating. Entertaining video as always, Alex.
I've had a Brother label maker for about 25 years. I almost never use it any more and it's been on the same batteries for maybe 20 years. Still works likes new.
Manual film winding is just so satisfying. I usually use cameras with powered winders whenever I (rarely these days) shoot film, but I'll often just pick up one of my totally manual old cameras and sit there just winding on and firing the shutter with no film in, it's like a weird comforting tactile thing.
Top tip is to use Nickel Metal Hydride batteries. I know that everything says don’t use them but everything operates at 4.2V still and they never leak down side is that the battery indicator sits at 2 bars but it does that for a really long time
I'd say those batteries have deserved a spot on the background set to commemorate their honorable service. Maybe on top of a plastic storage container covered in black fabric even!
Yea, like some others here I have a somewhat similar experience. Have 2 Philips Longlife 4.5V blocks that I turned into a oversized 9V block with conductive glue for a costume. Bought those over a decade ago, best before date was 02-2018, somehow they still give 9.23V open voltage. Then again I only use them rarely and at most 4 hours in a row only running a PC-fan, but still, those Longlife cells are supposedly the Zinc-Carbon type using salmiak so how the hell that corrosive stuff keeps fine is a mystery to me.
Now, THIS is, unlike many of the main channel November ones, a real no-effort video. It was nice to watch, tough, appropriate length. Sometimes you do need shorter videos for those days you don't really have much free time.
I have a Canon AE-1 which uses a weird 4LR44 mini battery the battery went ten years with the camera stored away and it still worked. I loved film cameras but the cost of developing was insane after a while. I love digital. The way you can shoot a thousand exposures, spend five minutes copying the files off to my laptop and then I'm off shooting again.
I remember when Digital Backs for medium format cameras were a thing and I kept hoping they'd make one for the AE-1 so I could finally dig it out and use it and my old lenses. A few years ago, after using mid-range digital cameras, I finally got a Canon mirrorless interchangeable lens camera and an adapter so I could use my old FD lenses again.
@@jakeaurod I lucked into a reviewers copy of the Fuji X-E2 it was and still is an amazing camera. I just wish the glass wasn't so expensive. I've got the 18-55 and 55-200 but can't afford more.
@@Hawk1966 It's so expensive because it's so good. There isn't a single one on the lineup that isn't world class, among the best ever made. Other than the zoom lenses, those are great but not that great.
@@lobsterbark I have to disagree, and so have many reviewers. The included 18-55mm is not, like almost every other camera makers "here, have a lens." inclusion is part of their incredible lineup. The 55-200mm is actually better than it's little brother.
@@Hawk1966 That's what I meant when I said they are great. They are really good, miles better than the cheap crap other manufacturers sell with cameras so beginners have a lens to use to realize why the lens is important, but it's not world class best ever made good. Good enough they are actually worth buying full price if you bought a camera without one, even.
Thank you for all the extra content! I’ve enjoyed them all, and heck you’ve almost got me wanting to shoot on film again. I would be interested in your thoughts on modern digital from p&s to dslr.
Totally understand the preference for the older Canon camera. My Dad had an AE-1 Program when I was growing up. The film advance lever, as I recall, had that amazing tactile feel (and sound)--fidget spinner, ASMR, and tool for artistic expression combined into one!
Great Connextra! AA alkaline batteries are definitely something to check. I also am a fan of the old analog Camera. I have a Canon F1n which is the successor to the F1 you have. If memory serves the F1 used a “coin Style” battery for the light meter. They too leak and can cause irreparable damage. For that reason I never keep batteries stored in equipment. It really is not too much trouble to load batteries along with the film before using the camera.
I'll be honest with you Alec I honestly prefer the completely unscripted style videos on connextras as your regular videos are so good that you should be a show on PBS this just feels more like early RUclips to me in the best way possible. Don't get me wrong I love the regular channel as well but I just love the old style RUclips feel I get with these videos. You definitely have some of the most in-depth interesting videos on all of RUclips and I am always happy to say I learn something every time I watch your Channel
There are 30 second videos out there that I've closed almost immediately because I can't be bothered to waste that much of my life. That said, I watched every single frame of this battery swap and never even blinked :)
I have a couple of Rayovac and Eveready "C" cells that my grandpa had in his DIY Knight Universal Auto Analyzer. They are very likely from the 1970s and they have not leaked, I don't believe they are alkaline and that may be why they havent leaked. I do appreciate the message on the side of them - "If your flashlight is damaged by corrosion, leakage, or swelling of this battery, send it to us with the batteries and we will give you free a new comparable flashlight with batteries."
Kirkland batteries are made by Duracell so it's not surprising they've lasted a long time. They aren't just some cheap knock-off brand that Costco rebranded as their own.
Nice cameras and in great shape, thanks to you. My last analog camera, which I miss, and yes I still have, but has failed. I got if for nothing many years ago unusable, but I fixed it and used it for years. It was a tank.
Hy, great camera and turns out that the batteries you had in it were great as well. I also have a Canon T90 (actually had 2 of them, one that more than 15 years ago I used and sold, and one that I bought a year ago) that I have started to use constantly. I have shot about 10 rolls of B&W film this year through it and developed it manually at home (as a matter of fact your videos about analog film were a very happy surprise, as I was deeply involved in developing and enlarging in the same period :) . Anyway, on my 1st T90 years ago I also got the dreaded locked shutter and "EEEE" error, and hitting it hard (as per some of the instructions found on the internet) fixed it. The only downside of the T90 was their weird implementation of "manual" exposure features, that I could not ever understand. Basically I would have expected to be like in later EOS line of SLRs and DSLRs, by having a mode called "Manual" and once that was selected the user would be able to select the aperture and the shutter speed from the main control dial + some buttons on the camera body. But no... I guess at that time (and going up to the early 90s) Canon really thought that manual mode is on its way out. I mean, look at the controls of the other T-series camera, that lack manual modes, plus look at the weird EOS 750 camera that came later which only had an AUTO mode and that's it. You couldn't even set the DX code of the film manually. But I digress..T90 is a great camera and the thought it stop working is a scary thought, indeed.
The clicks pops and and snaps from from old School cameras does sound pretty cool. Which digital cameras doesn't have the same vibe. plus hearing all those sounds kind of remind me watching movies about journalists getting to the new site and start snapping off pictures. To get to the heart of the news story.
Chuck those alkaline batteries into the recycle bin where they belong. Put Energizer lithium or Eneloop batteries in there and never worry about leaks again. You brought back fond memories of having to advance the film with a manual lever. I started with Minolta cameras back in the 70s and stayed with them until they were no more. I'm now Canon DSLR but the old analog was mighty cool.
I miss things using standard batteries. Far too many otherwise functional electronics I've had to throw away because the manufacturer no longer made the proprietary battery.
I've been messing around with my photography stuff again ever since you started this series. I've totally made the exact same mistakes, turning on the timer, leaving the cap on, putting it in the wrong mode, etc. It did at least remind me ahead of time that I'd forgotten the all important memory card though, haha. My non-digital SLR however did not properly indicate that it still had film loaded. RIP whatever was on that :P
Yeah. Only the most recent ones had a little window on the back to show the cartridge (or empty space). With older cameras you had to be very fastidious about leaving the film box square in the holder on the back when it was loaded and remembering to remove it when you removed the film. That was really the best option you had - or a piece of masking tape doing the same job on very old cameras that didn't have the little holder for the box top.
@@lobsterbark those things both do a terrible job. On most cameras the film advance moves forward as you fire it empty. And the ISO dial simply stays on whatever you left it on.
@@thecaveofthedead Don't fire it empty without resetting it then. And yeah, the iso dial stays at what you set it at. So it will always be at whatever iso the film inside is. Unless you shoot a lot of film and use every stock on the market, knowing the ISO of the film narrows things down enough that may tell you what is loaded.
I had a similar experience with some Duracell batteries a couple months ago. I found a casette tape recorder in a plastic storage tote that I haven't opened since 2002. The AA batteries have not burst , and when I press play I was surprised to find the batteries are working perfectly.
I had a set a AA batteries that came with a Pioneer stereo receiver remote. They were a lightweight Chinese brand. They sat in that remote being used for 14 years and still worked and never leaked. It’s been about 17 years since I stopped using that setup and those batteries are still testing good. I kept them cuz it is rather incredible. Still wondering how long they will hold a charge.
That's pretty cool. I have an Energizer battery, made in 2006, expired 2011, still has a pretty good amount of charge in it. I also had it's counterpart, but that one was completely dead (not even any voltage) and is now in the trash.
A couple years ago we found the old NES my dad owned along with a collection of games including the original legend of zelda. I use to play the legend of zelda on it when I was 3 years old in 2000, and so I felt like getting the system back up and working. I had to break the copyright pin in the NES to get it to read cartridges but after that it worked perfectly and then I put in the legend of zelda and it load it up just fine. The real amazing thing though that relates to this video, was that all of my save files from 2000 were still there, the NES has no long term storage inside of it so save games were actually kept in the cartridges which required a small watch battery to be built into them to work. That battery must be 30 years old yet is working just fine today as it did 30 years ago.
I have four Varta AA zinc carbon batteries, expired in 1978. They are not leaking, and last time I measured them (around 8 years ago), they still had 1.3-1.4V in them. They are useless because of very high internal resistance, but still... Just the fact they are not leaking and still have voltage is amazing on its own. I suspect they are not leaking because the electrolite dried up. They were in a '70s Grundig 17" remote controlled TV as memory backup.
Alkaline batteries from Duracell and Energizer tend to pack a lot of power, however they do that by literally packing more stuff into the same size case. Kirkland batteries are cheaper and have less 'stuff' in them, so they are less likely to fill up the volume of the battery and leak.
YESSS!!!! The MIGHTY T-90!!!!! Occasional EEE can be cleared by simply removing the batteries. But once the problem starts happening, it usually (I think) tends to slowly get worse. Keep exercising it! The multi-spot meter makes exposing tricky slides much easier.
Another guy who just came from Big Clive's leaky battery video, here! I know that camera is basically in storage mode, but I've had good luck with Energizer Lithiums not leaking. Also, maybe as a nod to The Big One, send those dead batteries to a Joule Thief for their final discharge?
I have the game "Simon" - full size - from the 1970s. Since the 80s, it's had the same 9-volt, same D batteries. Only recently did I check and I needed to replace the 9-volt.... The Ds are still good. No leaks. From what I can tell, the 9-volt drives the game, while the Ds drive the light bulbs. So no surprise, with lack of use, that they didn't drain... but no leaks in all that time either. I would turn it on from time to time... but didn't go out of my way to do anything. I think it was Duracell 9-volt and they're Everready Ds. You're not alone in battery heroes. :)
I totally feel the neglect of a sophisticated, electronic 35mm over a mostly mechanical one. Those features were revolutionary at the time and gave you so much speed and efficiency - two things that almost no one is interested in when using a film camera today. The cameras I now use the least are technological miracles, like the magnificent Nikon F100. But they're heavier and have more to remember to use them smoothly than a mechanical (or mostly mechanical) camera which is lightweight and has so few controls to remember that there's no adjustment period on picking it up again after 18 months. And yes, the aesthetics of use become all the more important as we get further from the era of mechanical cameras.
I’ve found that Kirkland batteries, aka Duracell, are highly batch dependent. Over the years, I’ve had some packs where not a single battery leaks and some packs where over 25% of batteries leak. My most recent Costco battery purchase of AAAs had almost half leak within a year, which made me finally fully move to rechargeable
That is very impressive, I have had Duracell batteries corrode after a year... Which is why I usually buy Energizer, but may look into those batteries you are using now.
Kirkland batteries generally just seem to be white-label Duracells. Recall watching a video years ago where they compared energy density, capacity, etc... and Kirkland scored identically to Duracell. Its a store brand so they can of course change manufacturers at any time (or use multiple) but for now they seem to be the same thing.
I got one of my grandfather's old analog voltmeters after he died. It had a RadioShack brand battery from the 80s. Older than I was, hadn't leaked, and was still working.
The T90 is a tour de force of engineering, ergonomics and design. Shame it was let down by those shutter sticking issues. Both mine fell to it. Kudos for your maintenance regime. It's still the camera I judge others by. I use my AE‐1 instead. The battery in the AE-1 is at least 30 years old and still going.
I recently acquired a bunch of VHS-C tapes from my grandparents' camcorder to digitize, along with a VHS adapter to stick them in a normal VCR. I didn't know those adapters are motorized. When I first put a tape in it just to make sure nothing caught, it suddenly sprung into life and did its little whirring thing to move the tape to the front of the cassette. It caught me very much off guard and for a moment I was bewildered as to what powered it. "Is it something mechanical? Do I have to wind it?" Then I noticed the battery cover on the side. Inside it, a single AA battery. Panasonic branded, red and black, of the "special" variety whatever that means. The date stamped on it is _2002._ I'm not sure if that's the manufacture or expiry date. Either way, the thing hasn't leaked one bit and still reads over 1.5 volts.
That's amazing performance! I have an EOS 620 and the battery lasts about a week with or without use. The camera was a gift from a friend of mine a few years ago. I find the battery life very frustrating so I other cameras when I want to use film.
Kirkland/Costco really doesn't mess around with their rebrands. Those are made by Duracell and are functionally the same as similar batteries at 2/3 the cost. The loss leader hot dogs might get you in the door, but the batteries keep you in the store.
I recently moved into an old house and while looking around between the joists in the basement, I found an old "Columbia" dry cell battery from an old fashioned crank telephone. It looked to be about 100 years old. It was all still intact, no signs of any kind of leakage or damage. For the heck of it, I put my multimeter on it and was completely flabbergasted that it was showing 1.5 volts! I don't know if you could pull any significant current from it before it would go flat, but I'm curious what kind of battery chemistry they might have used that would result in such a small leakage current that it would hold its voltage for that long. I can't seem to find any info on them - any searches just turn up collector sites that confirm that they were used in phones from the 1890's and later.
I myself am always surprised and happy when batteries reach past there use by date. Energizers are a good one to do that with, and some Rayovacs as well.
I've got an EOS 1-n and it's kind of a beast. Plus I get to use a bunch of cheap EOS glass which is a bonus. Sometimes you can get something nice on a used camera without paying a lot because people assume that if the camera is cheap, the lens must be cheap. Vintage/thrift stores are really starting to catch on though.
They might be using an isolated circuit for the batteries. When the power is off the batteries are isolated from the circuit preventing voltage leak. The reason why most batteries leak is because of a constant load on the batteries even when off. In an isolated circuit the batteries are removed from the circuit stopping all electron flow out of the batteries to the device. They now only flow between themselves to self-balance each other, but because the electrons are not going anywhere there is no voltage leak and therefore no load on the batteries. Which over time would cause them to leak alkaline and corrode. When you turn the power switch off you are only turning off the positive flow, but not the negative flow.
Ah, Kirkland batteries. A suitable alternative when you don’t have any PKCELLs
A man of culture, I see
great burn
Aww my pkcell…
I understood that reference.
It’s how we know they’re thinning out the soup a bit too much…
Old alkaline batteries contained mercury, which made them resistant to leaking. The mercury was there to absorb the hydrogen gas, which builds internal pressure when the battery is used, causing them to leak. Newer alkaline batteries don't have mercury, because it's harmful to the environment when disposed. Unfortunately, the mercury free batteries leak much sooner - many of them long before their 'use by' date, even if you've never used them. Now you've replaced the batteries, you should check the camera more frequently. The modern rechargeable Ni-mh batteries, with a low self-discharge rate, are a good alternative: less likely to leak; but they're only nominally 1.2 Volts per cell instead of 1.5 volts, so some equipment won't work with them.
It's hard to believe there isn't anything non-toxic that would work as a replacement hydrogen control. The way no-mercury alkalines leak is ridiculous and has driven me to NiMH and LFP rechargeables for everything but truly disposable uses.
yeah in the video about the mechanical Canon camera, he said that it doesnt work with 1.5V batteries since the light meter is pure analog...
@@t0biascze644 there are ways to fix that.
That's the downfall of the adoption of rechargeables - lack of voltage. If there were more of a push to create true 1.5V rechargeables, we could finally start to see a decrease in disposable battery usage.
Alkaline batteries became mercury-free almost 25 years ago. These batteries aren't that old.
Because of you I dug out my mom’s clunky old Nikon from the 1970s when I was at her house and decided to give it a try. It weighs like 20 lbs but it takes beautiful pictures! But it was such a pain to learn about all the settings because I had no idea what I was doing at first.
Also dug my mom's old Zenit recently! Used a BnW film. She said the camera has some sand grain somewhere and the photos have some kind of scratch, I'll just have to wait to get the film developed.
@Lucas T what camera is it?
20 lbs?????
@@maxir4k usually where that happens is on the metal pressure plate that keeps the film flat (between the back of the camera and the film). That's usually the prime suspect because it's physically pressed across the film. A dry, soft brush might dislodge a tiny piece of grit that's being dragged along the film as you advance it.
@@thecaveofthedead hmm interesting... Thx dude! I'll have to check that out when I finish the film.
Fun to see that these batteries lasted a decade without going flat, let alone leaking
Clive recently made a video about, and with, exploded alkaline batteries.
funny to see these two extremes so close together
I commented on that video about one of these videos LOL and now I'm back here. Don't forget about the battery survey.
I saw that video too
@@Alexander_l322 yeah it's weird how one creator will think of something and then a few others will think of the samething and they won't know it until they all upload. There was a video a while back that talked about how multiple versions of the same kind of movie would come out and one with die and one would blow the box office.
And also funny is that as far as I know, Kirkland Signature is just a custom label Duracell.
@@ke6gwf Most likely. Duracell ia a major brand of alkaline batteries. I would not be surprised if certain store chains had paid Duracell to put their brand labels on the batteries to be put in their stores alongside official Duracell batteries, and being cheaper than duracell batteries, but making both Duracell and those stores money at the same time. Least, I would assume such to be the case.
Feels good to see film cameras being taken care of, especially on a temperamental shooter like the T90.
First off: I love your videos! I just received a T-90 for Christmas. I hadn't played with it until I saw this video. I put and some fresh batteries and sure enough, the shutter was locked. The displays showed the EEEE error. My heart sank. I really wanted to shoot some film. Thankfully, your depth-of-field preview trick worked! Now, it shoots just fine. It was so serendipitous I caught your video when I did. Keep up the good work.
Remember that the depth of field lever only works when you disengage the automatic aperture control. To to this, just avoid that the red dot on the lens and the red dot on the camera are facing. In practice: choose an aperture on the LENS itself and try to operate the lever.
Wow he made his CGI background interactive must be some good tracking software with real camera sounds too
Next gen machine learning ... Probably he has a lot of papers he's holding on to ☝️😌
Is this Captain Disillusion's second channel? /s
It's not a background, he showed in a previous episode that everything is rendered, including the host.
@@JonasWilms I think he was being sarcastic
@@EddSjo I think he was sarcastic as well
I'm with you on the sound of a camera... I love to shoot old Soviet era cameras... The sound of a fabric shutter is just lovely!
I just wanted you to know that your videos on film encouraged me to get Grandpa's A-1 out and shoot some film. I'd love to see a video on camera flash technology.
Oh, you make me feel so old... I bought my A1 right out of school, back in '82.
My late grandfather owned and operated a camera store for most of his adult life. He could disassemble and reassemble one of those without even looking at a service manual. I mean the _whole thing_. I remember as a kid it completely blew my mind.
This video inspired me to get a haircut🙃
Same, though my grandpa’s was a FTb
I'm collecting analog multimeters, and one of my units had R10 batteries with expiry date of 1989, and they were still kind of working ;) another unit had Panasonic Special AA (R6) batteries (one with a green apple logo) from 1994 and they were completely fine (unit itself was brand new in a box).
Being that far out of date I wouldn’t want to eat them!
I remember those Panasonic batteries with 'apple' logo I remember getting them at the dollar store. I don't know why they had that icon on there maybe they made a bunch for Apple and then they didn't use them or maybe it was some sort of internal code.
I was given an old mutlimeter must have been from the 60's, I cant remember the model without going into the shed, but years ago I pulled out an old No412 22 and a half Volt Battery from it. It had a date written in Texta from 1980. and its dead of course but no leakage.
Man I can appreciate collecting them but I HATE analog meters. I work in a call center doing over the phone troubleshooting and having a customer tell me they have an analog meter when a difference of a quarter volt is going to change my troubleshooting drasitcally pisses me off. Is there something they're doing wrong or are digital meters just fantastically better in every way?
I thought batteries in multimeters were always dead. :)
It's always amazing to find old, not leaking, still working batteries in devices. About a year ago I was going through some stored stuff and heard a noise. It was coming from an old toy power tool from my childhood. It had a C size Energizer battery without an expiration date that could have been installed no later than 1993 and it still has some power and hadn't leaked.
That could've been a mercury containing battery though
@@rkan2 Would mercury explain it still having a charge?
HEAVY DUTY batteries have a different chemistry, so they don’t leak like Alkaline batteries do. Unfortunately heavy duty batteries only hold Half as much energy, so you’re only buying half the lifespan
.
Isn't it a nice surprise when things, y'know, WORK, and work even better than we actually expect them to?
subscription based batteries
@@redstonerelic Oh god don't give them ideas
@@scythal Yeah please don't give them these kinds of ideas, they're monsters.
HEAVY DUTY batteries have a different chemistry, so they don’t leak like Alkaline batteries do. Unfortunately heavy duty batteries only hold Half as much energy, so you’re only buying half the lifespan
.
I was once told by an old electrical engineer that those kinds of batteries only leak when there is a low parasitic draw on them. To help prevent this from happening, he said he always put a mechanical disconnect for the power on electronics he designed which took AA batteries (assuming the person actually used it). Basically all electronics have a parasitic draw unless they have a mechanical disconnect, which is normally a switch that all the power for the device goes through.
Dunno, with online battery shopping roulette these days it hasn't been uncommon for me to get a sealed pack of batteries with a few already leaking inside
The original Gameboy has a real mechanical switch that powers it off, I'm not totally familiar with the schematics but usually the death of a Gameboy is casued by leaky batteries that were left in before it was stored away.
This camera does have a tiny parasitic draw in order to run the clock and keep the settings memory active and that might help explain why they lasted so long.
I'm quite confused at which situations make alkalines leak as some devices are almost guaranteed to cause leakage while others seem protective. Two separate 2AA battery boxes that I used for a project a few years back both have physical switches to disconnect the cells from any load, yet the most negative cell in each pack leaked so badly this year that much of the metal inside is ruined. The 2nd, more "positive" battery in each box was absolutely fine and their voltages measure like new. I had to throw away the "negative" cells.
Meanwhile, I've never personally had AA's leak while running an old-fashioned analog clock. They *will* leak, however, if you put the clock in storage and the cells continue discharging long after the clock stops running. Draining them past "empty" is very likely to cause a leak.
I think Alkalines tend to *like* tiny loads like old wall clocks and such and I was taught that this actually reduces their self-discharge rate. In other words, alkaline cells might last longer actually running devices with tiny loads than they would sitting in a drawer. This camera might have actually *extended* the life of these cells.
My old boss at the office used to be a cheap prick with giving us AA batteries for our pagers. When he retired we cleaned out his office and to all our laughter found TONS of expired batteries, new in blister pack or box, some of them with expiration dates of 93 - 00 (this was back in 15 when he left) and many were leaking or crusty. Energizer industrial and Duracell.
I've had alkaline batteries leak in all types of situations of being unused, and the only solution is occasionally using the batteries.
So thrilled to see you geeking over these film cameras! I have my dad's old Minolta SRT-303b (aka, 202 here in the US), and this is inspiring me to load it up and shoot film again for the first time in more than 20 years (when I also used a Canon F-1).
the start of the photo series inspired me to take some photos on a minolta camera my grandpa gave to me
Semi-related to the bit about the shutter, I completely forgot I used my camera for some long exposure photography (probably some light drawing), and had the shutter set to 30 seconds. I went to go take a picture a few days later and had to stand there like an absolute lemon waiting for it to cancel!
Heh. Did something similar recently.
I do this all the time! I wish there was a cancel button for this stuff on DSLRs. It's why I always have the 2 second timer on when doing long exposure. If it beeps during the day I know to hit the flash button to cancel the timer and revert my settings.
Man I'm sooo happy that you dive into film photography so much. It's like a dream come true
I have a 1980's answering machine remote control (remember those?) from the 80's. it runs on two AAA cells. there's several buttons on it, which when pressed, it makes various beeps and tones to operate the answering machine for when you call in. I was given the answering machine (non working) and remote some time around 1995, and gutted the answering machine for parts. But the remote I kept since it was fun to press the buttons to hear the tones. Well, it's 2021 and it's STILL on the same batteries and it still works! I think the batteries are the same ones it shipped with when it was new, so they have to be 35 years old at this point.
dont throw them out when they die lol. you need to hold on to those. that's insane.
I find this unedited and unscripted videos so relaxing, keep uploading them :)
I just repaired my T90 shutter, even though I have been exercising it monthly for years. The latest heat wave here in the west turned a rubber part in the shutter to goo. Taking it apart requires dexterity, good eyesight, thin #00 Philips screwdriver and the repair manual.
Works like a champ now... Still it's getting more difficult to buy good film for reasonable prices.
The last week of December is the real no effort November, and I love it.
I bought an old Panasonic tape recorder a few years ago that came with four very old Kodak "Supralife" Alkaline AA batteries inside with date codes of 86-05, which probably means May of 1986. I was extremely surprised when I tested the tape recorder and it ran just fine with those batteries.
I just tested them again today, and they still work and are all at around 1.45 volts.
Probably have mercury in them though - less likely to leak
Wow that's impressive. I thought my experience with old batteries was impressive. You've got a decade on me.
Earlier this year I bought the same Casio calculator I had in high school from late 90's from eBay. It had the original batteries with a date of '96 on them and had not leaked. They were Casio branded and made in Japan. And still had a small amount of charge left in them.
A few years ago I was given a box of random electronics from my old landlord, and inside them was a pair of portable powered speakers with Energizer batteries from the 80s. They were absolutely dead flat, but they hadn't leaked whatsoever. That genuinely surprised me.
Had a package of Kirkland AAA's and many of the remaining ones all swelled and leaked considerably. Beyond what I've seen in others. The AA's have been fine though. Both purchased at the same time.
I don't know of any brand that doesn't have leaking AAAs, so I just buy lithium disposable AAAs
Highly possible that the AAA and AA were contracted out to different manufacturers and highly likely that's changed over the years.
@@Andyjpro plausible. Also plausible there was something different with the manufacturing of them that caused a different lifespan dispite the same manufacturer. Larger components tend to be easier to build more sturdy than small ones.
Unlucked out with Kirkland AAs. Someday my batch will come.
These candid shows are the best and funniest. Thank you 😂
Kirkland batteries at least from 2018 have been OEM by Duracell, and recently, at least in the UK I've seen a lot of leaked ones... Personally changing everything over to "Low Self Discharge" NiMh ones for safety.
I'm so used to the length of your usual videos that these short ones leave me feeling almost abandoned! I had to rewatch your train journey one again last night to rebalance my equilibrium...
What a coincidence.
This video comes 1 day after Big Clive posted a video about leaking Alkalines and why it's better to only use modern Ni-MH batteries instead.
I love this channel, because it's often times just a whole blooper video, rather than just the blooper reel at the end on the main channel.
The same thing happened when I had to use my grandmother's old camera for my photography class and it somehow still had batteries working from the 80s and continued working throughout the semester (and as far as I know, they still work)
I have a Radio Shack remote switch for the Christmas tree that I bought in 1995 or so. I've never changed the batteries and because of this video, I checked them. They are not leaking and they still work through 2021. Amazing. Thanks.
I have been trying to find batteries for my Canon FT-QL. It takes (or took) some special mercury battery that is no longer produced. I've read I can use a zinc-air battery (which lasts only months) or an adapter (which is sold out everywhere). Ah the joys of early TTL metering.
You can also try a silver oxide battery and figure out how much you need to adjust the exposure for the higher voltage. Personally I like using zinc air, a couple months of use seems like plenty to me. Alec said he uses super cheap zinc air hearing aid batteries with an adapter for his F1.
@@centurybug Yeah, the zinc-air hearing aid batteries are dirt cheap and the ones you don't use of the six-pack will last for ages unopened. I bought some for my OM-1 and didn't bother with an adapter or fiddling with the exposure controls. It works fine with them.
@@TheManFrayBentos After my current weincell gives up the ghost, I'll probably try to figure out hearing aid batteries. It seems like a pretty optimal solution!
One of your best Connextras ever. The time spent waiting for the shutter to close was HILARIOUS
I get your feels for the old camera. I'm stilling hanging on to an Olympus OM-1 that was already vintage when I got it (long enough ago that it would be vintage now even if it weren't then).
Not merely analog, but fully mechanical with a rolling shutter that goes down to 1/1000 second. Well, _almost_ fully mechanical. The light meter needs a battery to function, but the camera can operate just fine without that battery or the light meter.
The OM1 is a perfect jewel of a camera.
@@thecaveofthedead Indeed it is. It's a real shame that mine, which I bought second hand in the late seventies, has recently developed an odd fault where it will only work upside down (!) - I think a broken spring on the release latch. But it is aesthetically a delight, and its small size and weight compared to many SLRs of the time (and wonderful Zuiko optics) means that one day I will get around to repairing it.
@@neilbarnes3557 Beware of the sticky mirror damper foam and the foam that cushions the prism. Both can be cleaned with a strip-down, but if left, the mirror gets stuck and the prism gets ruined. Not beyond use, but it's ugly. I have an OM-1 with those faults, but it's still useable. My VF on my Mamiya 645J suffers from the same, but I wonder if I can remove the foam and re-silver the damaged areas.
lol I swear you make these videos just for me. I could hear that it was slow too. I loved every second, thank you.
This is the kind of content I subscribed for all those years ago.
I appreciate how you got kirklands again to honor the old batteries' legacy :p
Amazing. Recently I have found a few devices that still had working batteries. Although not the same type, my original PS2 from 2000 still has the functioning clock battery (CR-2032) last I checked it was still at 3V. I also have a couple SNES games with batteries that still keep the SRAM going from the 90s. It doesn't seem like they make them like that anymore.
Ahhh, that darn PS2 battery. It lasts a long time but it's REALLY hard to replace.
Recently started playing on my old slimline PS2. The battery sure is done for, but instead the PS2 is still counting days from the date at which i started reusing it. Its somewhere at 7-2000 now. It also looks kinda weird when my old save files still have the right date but newer saves from now on all show xx-xx-00 instead of example: 23-05-07 (european date format).
It’ll probably reset back to 1-1-2000 when i unplug it from mains.
@@tapehead-jeff I'm going to get my PlayStation 2 out for the first time in 10+ years, and today I learned there's a battery in it 😅 But your comment reassured me so much, I'll be able to do it with less anxiety, phew! Thanks!! 🌟
Aren't those usually lithium? much less likely to leak.
@@becauseimafan the boot animation with the balls is date dependant, so it just gets stuck as the RTC doesn't run
A+ Hanukkah content right here.
A power source that was rated for a limited amount of time lasted much longer in practice. A true holiday miracle.
Ramble on, good sir. Ramble on.
Most Kirkland batteries I’ve used never leaked. Most Duracells I have used never leaked either, though the Duracells leaked more than the Kirklands. I just started trying Energizers and they haven’t leaked yet, but the capacity is disappointing compared to Duracell or Kirkland.
I have an Oculus Go and the remote takes one AA, EVERY battery I have put in that thing leaks. The remote always draws a significant amount of power so that kills the cells faster.
My dad gave me an old AT&T phone from an elevator, I took it apart just to find two Duracells that said use by March of 2000.
i just had a batch of AAA kirklands where about 7 in the pack had leaked while still in the package in the last 2 years.
@@ZE0XE0 Damn that sucks. I’ve had a Kirkland in my clock for the past two years, maybe it’s time to replace it.
Duracells changed the way they make batteries a few years ago and now they are extremely prone to leaking, while Energizer has improved.
Really though, if you are that concerned about leaking get name brand "heavy duty" zinc-carbon batteries. In devices with low current use that you still use often, they are more likely to die before they leak, so you replace them before it becomes a problem. The modern ones are much better at leak resistance than the older ones, and the chemistry inside is much less corrosive than that in alkaline batteries.
Kirkland batteries are actually made by Duracell. Costco’s CEO, Craig Jelinek, revealed that little-known secret in an interview.
I think your Oculus remote is crying for some NiMH action.
I love the antique Kodak Brownie(?) on the shelf.
I had one when I was 10 or 12 years old.
Only 8 B&W shots, and it cost a few dollars in 1959, which is like $50 today,
so you had to really be sure of what to shoot. Not like today,
where bazillions of shots cost nothing.
I actually took a photo of my meal once, in a dimly-lit restaurant,
so I could see what I was eating.
Entertaining video as always, Alex.
I've had a Brother label maker for about 25 years. I almost never use it any more and it's been on the same batteries for maybe 20 years. Still works likes new.
Manual film winding is just so satisfying. I usually use cameras with powered winders whenever I (rarely these days) shoot film, but I'll often just pick up one of my totally manual old cameras and sit there just winding on and firing the shutter with no film in, it's like a weird comforting tactile thing.
Top tip is to use Nickel Metal Hydride batteries. I know that everything says don’t use them but everything operates at 4.2V still and they never leak down side is that the battery indicator sits at 2 bars but it does that for a really long time
Love your work. Especially when you are unedited and just awesomely silly. Of course anything camera related is a win.
You may want to consider a Sights & Sounds video with your camera hardware.
I'd say those batteries have deserved a spot on the background set to commemorate their honorable service. Maybe on top of a plastic storage container covered in black fabric even!
Yea, like some others here I have a somewhat similar experience.
Have 2 Philips Longlife 4.5V blocks that I turned into a oversized 9V block with conductive glue for a costume.
Bought those over a decade ago, best before date was 02-2018, somehow they still give 9.23V open voltage.
Then again I only use them rarely and at most 4 hours in a row only running a PC-fan, but still, those Longlife cells are supposedly the Zinc-Carbon type using salmiak so how the hell that corrosive stuff keeps fine is a mystery to me.
Now, THIS is, unlike many of the main channel November ones, a real no-effort video. It was nice to watch, tough, appropriate length. Sometimes you do need shorter videos for those days you don't really have much free time.
I have a Canon AE-1 which uses a weird 4LR44 mini battery the battery went ten years with the camera stored away and it still worked. I loved film cameras but the cost of developing was insane after a while. I love digital. The way you can shoot a thousand exposures, spend five minutes copying the files off to my laptop and then I'm off shooting again.
I remember when Digital Backs for medium format cameras were a thing and I kept hoping they'd make one for the AE-1 so I could finally dig it out and use it and my old lenses. A few years ago, after using mid-range digital cameras, I finally got a Canon mirrorless interchangeable lens camera and an adapter so I could use my old FD lenses again.
@@jakeaurod I lucked into a reviewers copy of the Fuji X-E2 it was and still is an amazing camera. I just wish the glass wasn't so expensive. I've got the 18-55 and 55-200 but can't afford more.
@@Hawk1966 It's so expensive because it's so good. There isn't a single one on the lineup that isn't world class, among the best ever made. Other than the zoom lenses, those are great but not that great.
@@lobsterbark I have to disagree, and so have many reviewers. The included 18-55mm is not, like almost every other camera makers "here, have a lens." inclusion is part of their incredible lineup. The 55-200mm is actually better than it's little brother.
@@Hawk1966 That's what I meant when I said they are great. They are really good, miles better than the cheap crap other manufacturers sell with cameras so beginners have a lens to use to realize why the lens is important, but it's not world class best ever made good. Good enough they are actually worth buying full price if you bought a camera without one, even.
Thank you for all the extra content! I’ve enjoyed them all, and heck you’ve almost got me wanting to shoot on film again. I would be interested in your thoughts on modern digital from p&s to dslr.
I removed some Kirkland AAAs from a TV remote this morning and they leaked in less than a year.
Totally understand the preference for the older Canon camera. My Dad had an AE-1 Program when I was growing up. The film advance lever, as I recall, had that amazing tactile feel (and sound)--fidget spinner, ASMR, and tool for artistic expression combined into one!
Am I going to watch a ten minute long video about how some very old double A alkaline batteries didn't leak and still kind of work?
...yes. yes I am
Great Connextra! AA alkaline batteries are definitely something to check. I also am a fan of the old analog Camera. I have a Canon F1n which is the successor to the F1 you have. If memory serves the F1 used a “coin Style” battery for the light meter. They too leak and can cause irreparable damage. For that reason I never keep batteries stored in equipment. It really is not too much trouble to load batteries along with the film before using the camera.
I'll be honest with you Alec I honestly prefer the completely unscripted style videos on connextras as your regular videos are so good that you should be a show on PBS this just feels more like early RUclips to me in the best way possible.
Don't get me wrong I love the regular channel as well but I just love the old style RUclips feel I get with these videos.
You definitely have some of the most in-depth interesting videos on all of RUclips and I am always happy to say I learn something every time I watch your Channel
I love these! Digital photographer, but spent many years in my grandpa's dark room in his print shop, so old film gear is nostalgia city for me
There are 30 second videos out there that I've closed almost immediately because I can't be bothered to waste that much of my life. That said, I watched every single frame of this battery swap and never even blinked :)
Shorts are cancer, so they deserve no views anyway.
I have a couple of Rayovac and Eveready "C" cells that my grandpa had in his DIY Knight Universal Auto Analyzer. They are very likely from the 1970s and they have not leaked, I don't believe they are alkaline and that may be why they havent leaked. I do appreciate the message on the side of them -
"If your flashlight is damaged by corrosion, leakage, or swelling of this battery, send it to us with the batteries and we will give you free a new comparable flashlight with batteries."
Kirkland batteries are made by Duracell so it's not surprising they've lasted a long time. They aren't just some cheap knock-off brand that Costco rebranded as their own.
Nice cameras and in great shape, thanks to you. My last analog camera, which I miss, and yes I still have, but has failed. I got if for nothing many years ago unusable, but I fixed it and used it for years. It was a tank.
Hy, great camera and turns out that the batteries you had in it were great as well. I also have a Canon T90 (actually had 2 of them, one that more than 15 years ago I used and sold, and one that I bought a year ago) that I have started to use constantly. I have shot about 10 rolls of B&W film this year through it and developed it manually at home (as a matter of fact your videos about analog film were a very happy surprise, as I was deeply involved in developing and enlarging in the same period :) . Anyway, on my 1st T90 years ago I also got the dreaded locked shutter and "EEEE" error, and hitting it hard (as per some of the instructions found on the internet) fixed it. The only downside of the T90 was their weird implementation of "manual" exposure features, that I could not ever understand. Basically I would have expected to be like in later EOS line of SLRs and DSLRs, by having a mode called "Manual" and once that was selected the user would be able to select the aperture and the shutter speed from the main control dial + some buttons on the camera body. But no... I guess at that time (and going up to the early 90s) Canon really thought that manual mode is on its way out. I mean, look at the controls of the other T-series camera, that lack manual modes, plus look at the weird EOS 750 camera that came later which only had an AUTO mode and that's it. You couldn't even set the DX code of the film manually. But I digress..T90 is a great camera and the thought it stop working is a scary thought, indeed.
I felt Alec's reaction at 1:23 in my soul.
I wish my old Minolta camera used AA batteries, I hate those LR44 coin batteries, because not too many stores sell them anymore.
I feel the same with fully analog, mechanical cameras, the sound they make and the whole feel is just so much more satisfying
The clicks pops and and snaps from from old School cameras does sound pretty cool.
Which digital cameras doesn't have the same vibe.
plus hearing all those sounds kind of remind me watching movies about journalists getting to the new site and start snapping off pictures.
To get to the heart of the news story.
Chuck those alkaline batteries into the recycle bin where they belong. Put Energizer lithium or Eneloop batteries in there and never worry about leaks again. You brought back fond memories of having to advance the film with a manual lever. I started with Minolta cameras back in the 70s and stayed with them until they were no more. I'm now Canon DSLR but the old analog was mighty cool.
Please do a video on the short lived, APS (Kodak Advantix) Film.
I miss things using standard batteries. Far too many otherwise functional electronics I've had to throw away because the manufacturer no longer made the proprietary battery.
For sure. Expecially all these power tool companies that refuse to agree on a standard type of battery.
I've been messing around with my photography stuff again ever since you started this series. I've totally made the exact same mistakes, turning on the timer, leaving the cap on, putting it in the wrong mode, etc. It did at least remind me ahead of time that I'd forgotten the all important memory card though, haha. My non-digital SLR however did not properly indicate that it still had film loaded. RIP whatever was on that :P
Yeah. Only the most recent ones had a little window on the back to show the cartridge (or empty space). With older cameras you had to be very fastidious about leaving the film box square in the holder on the back when it was loaded and remembering to remove it when you removed the film. That was really the best option you had - or a piece of masking tape doing the same job on very old cameras that didn't have the little holder for the box top.
@@thecaveofthedead That's what the film counter is for. The iso dial also gives you a pretty good idea of what is loaded.
@@lobsterbark those things both do a terrible job. On most cameras the film advance moves forward as you fire it empty. And the ISO dial simply stays on whatever you left it on.
@@thecaveofthedead Don't fire it empty without resetting it then. And yeah, the iso dial stays at what you set it at. So it will always be at whatever iso the film inside is. Unless you shoot a lot of film and use every stock on the market, knowing the ISO of the film narrows things down enough that may tell you what is loaded.
Wow! That’s quality! I will say, let’s see how long this set will last. See ya in 10 years! Keep up the great work
I had a similar experience with some Duracell batteries a couple months ago. I found a casette tape recorder in a plastic storage tote that I haven't opened since 2002. The AA batteries have not burst , and when I press play I was surprised to find the batteries are working perfectly.
I had a set a AA batteries that came with a Pioneer stereo receiver remote. They were a lightweight Chinese brand. They sat in that remote being used for 14 years and still worked and never leaked. It’s been about 17 years since I stopped using that setup and those batteries are still testing good. I kept them cuz it is rather incredible. Still wondering how long they will hold a charge.
I appreciate the story time "we're just going to do it in 1 take, problems be damned" approach.
That's pretty cool. I have an Energizer battery, made in 2006, expired 2011, still has a pretty good amount of charge in it. I also had it's counterpart, but that one was completely dead (not even any voltage) and is now in the trash.
so far loving connextramas!! looking forward to you in the new year
A couple years ago we found the old NES my dad owned along with a collection of games including the original legend of zelda. I use to play the legend of zelda on it when I was 3 years old in 2000, and so I felt like getting the system back up and working. I had to break the copyright pin in the NES to get it to read cartridges but after that it worked perfectly and then I put in the legend of zelda and it load it up just fine. The real amazing thing though that relates to this video, was that all of my save files from 2000 were still there, the NES has no long term storage inside of it so save games were actually kept in the cartridges which required a small watch battery to be built into them to work. That battery must be 30 years old yet is working just fine today as it did 30 years ago.
I have four Varta AA zinc carbon batteries, expired in 1978. They are not leaking, and last time I measured them (around 8 years ago), they still had 1.3-1.4V in them. They are useless because of very high internal resistance, but still... Just the fact they are not leaking and still have voltage is amazing on its own. I suspect they are not leaking because the electrolite dried up. They were in a '70s Grundig 17" remote controlled TV as memory backup.
"Listen to that." That is a lovely sound. Instant nostalgia😊
3:48
Alkaline batteries from Duracell and Energizer tend to pack a lot of power, however they do that by literally packing more stuff into the same size case. Kirkland batteries are cheaper and have less 'stuff' in them, so they are less likely to fill up the volume of the battery and leak.
I really love your camera content! Would love to see some things that you've shot recently :)
YESSS!!!! The MIGHTY T-90!!!!!
Occasional EEE can be cleared by simply removing the batteries. But once the problem starts happening, it usually (I think) tends to slowly get worse. Keep exercising it!
The multi-spot meter makes exposing tricky slides much easier.
It’s like an entire blooper reel episode. LOVING IT!!!!!
Another guy who just came from Big Clive's leaky battery video, here! I know that camera is basically in storage mode, but I've had good luck with Energizer Lithiums not leaking.
Also, maybe as a nod to The Big One, send those dead batteries to a Joule Thief for their final discharge?
I have the game "Simon" - full size - from the 1970s.
Since the 80s, it's had the same 9-volt, same D batteries.
Only recently did I check and I needed to replace the 9-volt.... The Ds are still good.
No leaks.
From what I can tell, the 9-volt drives the game, while the Ds drive the light bulbs.
So no surprise, with lack of use, that they didn't drain... but no leaks in all that time either.
I would turn it on from time to time... but didn't go out of my way to do anything.
I think it was Duracell 9-volt and they're Everready Ds.
You're not alone in battery heroes. :)
I totally feel the neglect of a sophisticated, electronic 35mm over a mostly mechanical one. Those features were revolutionary at the time and gave you so much speed and efficiency - two things that almost no one is interested in when using a film camera today.
The cameras I now use the least are technological miracles, like the magnificent Nikon F100. But they're heavier and have more to remember to use them smoothly than a mechanical (or mostly mechanical) camera which is lightweight and has so few controls to remember that there's no adjustment period on picking it up again after 18 months.
And yes, the aesthetics of use become all the more important as we get further from the era of mechanical cameras.
I’ve found that Kirkland batteries, aka Duracell, are highly batch dependent. Over the years, I’ve had some packs where not a single battery leaks and some packs where over 25% of batteries leak. My most recent Costco battery purchase of AAAs had almost half leak within a year, which made me finally fully move to rechargeable
I threw out most of a set of AAAs recently because they leaked in the package. Was not impressed.
That is very impressive, I have had Duracell batteries corrode after a year... Which is why I usually buy Energizer, but may look into those batteries you are using now.
your videos are awesone, thank you so much for the effort!
Kirkland batteries generally just seem to be white-label Duracells. Recall watching a video years ago where they compared energy density, capacity, etc... and Kirkland scored identically to Duracell. Its a store brand so they can of course change manufacturers at any time (or use multiple) but for now they seem to be the same thing.
I got one of my grandfather's old analog voltmeters after he died. It had a RadioShack brand battery from the 80s. Older than I was, hadn't leaked, and was still working.
The T90 is a tour de force of engineering, ergonomics and design. Shame it was let down by those shutter sticking issues. Both mine fell to it. Kudos for your maintenance regime.
It's still the camera I judge others by. I use my AE‐1 instead. The battery in the AE-1 is at least 30 years old and still going.
I recently acquired a bunch of VHS-C tapes from my grandparents' camcorder to digitize, along with a VHS adapter to stick them in a normal VCR. I didn't know those adapters are motorized. When I first put a tape in it just to make sure nothing caught, it suddenly sprung into life and did its little whirring thing to move the tape to the front of the cassette. It caught me very much off guard and for a moment I was bewildered as to what powered it. "Is it something mechanical? Do I have to wind it?" Then I noticed the battery cover on the side. Inside it, a single AA battery. Panasonic branded, red and black, of the "special" variety whatever that means. The date stamped on it is _2002._ I'm not sure if that's the manufacture or expiry date. Either way, the thing hasn't leaked one bit and still reads over 1.5 volts.
That's amazing performance! I have an EOS 620 and the battery lasts about a week with or without use. The camera was a gift from a friend of mine a few years ago. I find the battery life very frustrating so I other cameras when I want to use film.
Whether in a case or not, I think those batteries deserve a spot somewhere in your backdrop menagerie.
Kirkland/Costco really doesn't mess around with their rebrands. Those are made by Duracell and are functionally the same as similar batteries at 2/3 the cost. The loss leader hot dogs might get you in the door, but the batteries keep you in the store.
I recently moved into an old house and while looking around between the joists in the basement, I found an old "Columbia" dry cell battery from an old fashioned crank telephone. It looked to be about 100 years old. It was all still intact, no signs of any kind of leakage or damage. For the heck of it, I put my multimeter on it and was completely flabbergasted that it was showing 1.5 volts! I don't know if you could pull any significant current from it before it would go flat, but I'm curious what kind of battery chemistry they might have used that would result in such a small leakage current that it would hold its voltage for that long. I can't seem to find any info on them - any searches just turn up collector sites that confirm that they were used in phones from the 1890's and later.
I myself am always surprised and happy when batteries reach past there use by date. Energizers are a good one to do that with, and some Rayovacs as well.
I've got an EOS 1-n and it's kind of a beast. Plus I get to use a bunch of cheap EOS glass which is a bonus. Sometimes you can get something nice on a used camera without paying a lot because people assume that if the camera is cheap, the lens must be cheap. Vintage/thrift stores are really starting to catch on though.
They might be using an isolated circuit for the batteries. When the power is off the batteries are isolated from the circuit preventing voltage leak. The reason why most batteries leak is because of a constant load on the batteries even when off. In an isolated circuit the batteries are removed from the circuit stopping all electron flow out of the batteries to the device. They now only flow between themselves to self-balance each other, but because the electrons are not going anywhere there is no voltage leak and therefore no load on the batteries. Which over time would cause them to leak alkaline and corrode.
When you turn the power switch off you are only turning off the positive flow, but not the negative flow.
Have you considered starting a third channel for Technology Connections ASMR? Those old mechanical clicks and wurrs are quite satisfying