Nice colors- it doesn't look "digital" to me either. Though I think that is a funny critique because pictures taken on a digital camera are edited in so many different ways, including to look like different film stocks, so in that sense, the same critique could be given to any film stock today.
The new Ektachrome is absolutely beautiful. I have plenty on hand and will continue to shoot it as much as I can. I pay for processing only and view it on my projector after I mount the slides at home.
Glad to see you back shooting man! Those first few shots with the contrast of the reds and the blues of the sky/smoke stack were excellent! Would love to see some prints of them!
I quite like the blue cast in the shadows. I guess just cos it makes a difference from the green cast you often get in cheaper stocks (particularly Fuji, in my experience). Maybe also because in movies, night scenes are often lit with a similar blue hue? I'm not sure, but it's quite pleasing to me
Definitely agree with your metering for highlights on those smokestack pics, gives it a very distinct feel and really brings out the richness in the highlights that look unique to slide film. I'm off to the Albanian Alps next week with a Pentax LX and some Ektar and Ektachrome, and hadn't shot any film for 20+ years until last month. Couple of useful tips for me there - bracket and meter more for highlights than the Ektar. Thanks! btw, did you use polarizing filters for any of those shots? I'm guessing not with the low light shots?
I can understand why some might call this a "digital" look. Much of what is perceived as film photography's character is the highlight shoulder that results from exposing for shadows and as a consequence slightly blowing highlights in negative film. Shooting on slide film as you have, deliberately stays away from this part of the film's tonal range so we are left with more subtle cues of the film's character, which people might have more difficulty picking up.
If you're shooting the same scene on one roll, instead of bracketing, clip test the film when it's processed. This was normal practice back in the day. The processor cuts off a 2-3 inch piece of the film and processes it normally. Then you judge the result and can then push or pull the remaining film in the process. Admittedly, this was used more with 120 but there's no reason why you can't do it with 35mm. It doesn't tolerate big pushes and pulls, but if it's an important shot, just a 1/3 or 1/2 stop tweak can make a big difference.
Matt - You probably know this, but just putting it out there: Slide film was meant to be projected with a tungsten-bulb projector, which would make the image appear warmer than you're seeing in the scans. Getting prints from positives was almost never a thing. The proper way to do it was with a Cibachrome (now Ilfochrome) process, which was painfully expensive, or the 'cheap' way was to do a contact-exposure of the slide film onto regular negative film which ruined the color, grain, and sharpness in the resulting prints. Kodachrome was the warm-tone slide film (known for intense red/orange/yellow reproduction) but the reason Ektachrome was popular with hobbyists was that you could do the E-6 process for it pretty easily as long as you controlled the temperature tightly, but the K-14 process for Kodachrome was a pain in the ass and not really suitable for home processing.
I bought 7 rolls but haven’t felt inspired to shoot with them yet. I am usually tightly bound to shoot bw film and it’s hard for me to visualize the world in color. Nevertheless I am keeping these in my fridge for a special day. Thanks to Matt and others i already have some idea of how the film behaves. So I don’t have to experiment myself.. the rolls are expensive and I am holding off shooing for some unique experiences.
I use Ektachrome almost exclusively now! What I realized is that with slide film I pay for developing only $11.50/roll and I cut, mount and scan myself since that is super easy with slide film and therefore that is cheaper than developing and lab scanning C41 which I don't want to scan myself since it's a PITA. For me ektachrome is a winner.
Great video and great photos. I wasn't going to try Ektachrome because of some negative reviews I've seen, but after seeing your results, I've got a roll on order and look forward to trying it out. Thanks Matt
I would like to get a hold of a few rolls in the future, but unfortunately I can't get mail right now as I am living in a hotel while I rebuild my life after the fires in Northern California, I was waiting for a few rolls of Gold 200 but I haven't figured out how to get that shipped to the hotel. I only have three 35mm cameras with me unfortunately but they should be enough to capture a few shots while I am in limbo. Thinking of accumulating enough images to maybe create a photo book of this whole ordeal. Anyway great video as usual Matt really like how you approached shooting slide film. -Shane
I've got five rolls finally shipping out to me, now that it's closer to winter the light should be more suitable for slide film. It really is it's best in morning/evening light or in cloudy and overcast conditions (most of the year is harsh sun here)
@@thememoryguardians if the light is nice the film will be happy. The national geographic photographers used to shoot slide and would do most of their photographing outside at dawn or dusk and not much during the day
I really like your videos, your content but, mainly, your tone. It is relaxing to hear you speaking so calmly and didactically. In a world of youtubers screaming for attention, with quick mounts, sound effects and almost epileptic images, your channel is a space of calm and good content. Congratulations, man. =)
I have shot just one roll of the new Ektachrome and had it developed by the best lab in this area. I thought the results were excellent. I don't have a Leica, but do you a very nice Olympus OM2n that I have owned since new that meters quite well. For slide film over the last couple of years I have mostly used Velvia 50 & 100. My experience from only one roll, so not a lot of use yet, is that Ektachrome is a much more versatile film than V 50 in that the Ektachrome people skin shots was very good. And the landscape shots I took where the color popped showed up on the film with just outstanding results. However, Velvia 50 in some landscape instances is just an over the top blast of color that gives you results that cannot be got any other way. The V 100 is just OK to me. Ektachrome is 13 bucks as is Provia and V100. Velvia 50 is 17 bucks on the web today. This combined with 4 extra bucks to develop and you have about $10 full dollars more than using Ektar or Portra. I had hoped that Ektachrome would come in at more like $8-10 a roll. But I am sure Kodak spent lots of money coming up with this new formulation and need to get some of it back. But it does put to total price of buying the film and develop - scanning up there. This compared with Fuji 200 at $4.00 a roll and very good develop and scan by George's Camera locally at $13 puts you at $17 total. You can even add a set of prints for +$2.00. So half what Ektacrhome will cost. If money was no object I would shoot a lot of Ektachrome. I still have 7 more rolls to shoot. I got very good results in full mid day sun. So take this film with you on your next trip to a National Park along with some Ektar.
My mother went to art school (painting, I think) and graduated around 1950-51. When she traveled, she would always shoot slides; she loved shooting slides. I remember looking at slides in our living room on a slide projector. Now, decades later, I'm a beginning amateur photographer using my mom's old Pentax K1000. Today when people shoot slides, do they get the slides printed out like a photograph, or do they get them saved to a digital format, or do they show them to friends on old slide projectors (I would ask my mother but she has long since passed).
What's interesting is I don't necessarily like the look of the film when scanned, but I love the idea of having film strips that appear as they were shot.
Use Tetenal E6 instead of Fuji C6R, I shall suggest. With a detailed comparison, the Tetenal chemical brings the most out of Ektachrome, while Fuji chemical makes the image looks underexposed.
Hey Matt, thanks for the Video! I'm really looking forward to see see the results of ektachrome myself. I just packed my bag for an upcoming trip to south korea and put some rolls of ektachrome in my camera bag as well. My go to films are Portra 400 and HP5 but as you said, it is very important to support Kodak with their decision to bring back a film stock. greetings and much love from europe
Little trick to soften skin tones in the 80's for fashion on this film was to reverse process it (as a color negative). Seems to work well to soften highlights too in my experience (I have used C41).
Thanks Matt, great video and pics. I recently shot my first slide & Ektachrome roll ever, and the slides look great. I also scanned them via Epson v600 w/Vuescan and even bought a light box to lead my Lightroom/Photoshop edit along with the real slides, since scans look awful and, of course, a bit out of focus. It would be interesting then if you could do a video about the scanning process of those slides, to see if we can really achieve the slide results - I actually like the fact that with slides you have a real colors reference! Thanks
Great video Matt as usual, love the results especially in those scenes 4:35 on wards. I just shot a roll today alongside my M8 for a bit of fun, looking forward to comparing the results.
I am using the same lens, great to see how it renders ektachrome, thank you for that. I can see that you like to shoot wide open but lately my sweet spot is at f2 but I understand that its a 100 speed film so that 1.4 became really useful. Can't wait for you next video. I love watching your videos, it is like coffee, for my photography, you know what I mean :D.
My local shop has run out twice I think. I'm not sure I'm good enough of a film photographer yet to do this film justice, but I'd love to try if I can find any soon. Beautiful shots as always, Matt. Thanks for sharing.
I just found your channel, awesome stuff, nee work! Did you ever do a video on how you meter and select ISO. I recently started shooting film and would like to learn about how you meter and expose. Thanks!
Thanks and liked the pictures. Just a thought. Wonder if you could shoot side by side with a Fuji Provia or still better Velvia. I guess Velvia will sparkle in the dull weather.
My local place still hasn't got Ektachrome because of a problem with their distributor. I only shoot slides for colour so the hype is real. PS : Use an 81A,B or even C filter if you want to remove the blue tendency, i shoot slides through an 81A , always.
man that is one dope film! and really hope to try this one soon! really enjoyed this, hope to see more. and thanks for sharing all this super dope content with us
I think slide film is always best viewed with a projector and unless you send it away for professional scanning. I've always preferred scanning negatives rather than slide because the scan better imho with home scanners. I have an Epson v600 and Plustek 8200i. I won't shoot slide any more it's just not for me. I'll stick with Portra for my colour film and Hp5 or Kentmere for black and white. Also have some cheap Fujicolor c200 and Kodak colorplus for days when I want to shoot with my Olympus Trip 35 just for fun. Good to see Kodak bringing back this film though, just not for me.
I'd say there is probably at least another ½ stop or more that could have been had on the upper end, which would have brought the shadows up a ½ or more as well. But if this is the desired look then it works. Dmax is Dmax, no matter if it's in E100 or Portra 400. It's just that E100 is more like an Italian sports car, while Portra is more like a Chevy Suburban. E100 goes from 0 to a Dmax of about 3.8 in about 9 EV (2.8 LOG lux-secs) flat, whereas Portra 400 goes from 0 to a lesser 3.0 Dmax over about 13 EV (3.8 LOG lux-secs). This is also why slide film is more contrasty or "punchy", while color negs have a more washed-out look (IMHO) but also have higher exposure forgiveness. The Suburban is more forgiving than the Ferrari. But the Ferrari looks better. When shooting chromes, much of what you end up with comes after development, in the "digital darkroom" scanning process. Not sure about the V850 scanner, but the Nikon 5000ED/9000ED scanners have adjustable LED brightness, allowing the scanning software (e.g. Silverfast in my case) to do a multiple pass scan with increased exposure during the 2nd pass. This can dig more original detail out of the shadows even if they are approaching the Dmax end of the characteristic curve. Your mileage may vary though, depending on the Dmax of your scanner, light source noise, etc. I have found that lab scans never get to this level of care, as the scan techs are working on a scans per hour basis, not a quality per image basis. If you want it scanned right, you'll have to either do it yourself or pay someone else to do it for you. P.S. If you want a Nikon Coolscan _DO NOT_ purchase the 4000ED/8000ED models. These had faulty mechanisms that caused banding in most units. This was eliminated in the redesigned 5000ED/9000ED models. This is also why a 9000ED may be listed on eBay for 3x that of an 8000ED, for example. If you only have 135 strips/slides, go for the 5000ED. Its size, feature set, and accessories are optimized around 135. The 9000ED will do both 120 and 135, but it costs more and is not as convenient for 135 scanning--the 9000ED is really geared toward 120. There is also a Coolscan V-ED model. I don't know much about it, except that it's an older model that was eventually replaced by the 5000ED.
Is it the Leica's excellent lens or the pro lab? Your photos look so clean. I can't get this quality out of my homedeveloped and scanned film. Would love to see some of your "go and shoot" moments in form of videos. Your instagram story is so much fun!
Another very informative video Matt. I have just caught with your channel after being recommended by Travis Mortz. While watching an old video about scanning with the epson v600 and the problems with the software going to sleep, if he is still watching your channel I would like to thank marcelobpereiras for his solution. Thanks Matt and keep them coming.
Matt, great video on Ektachrome! I wonder if warming filters would help with the blue cast in the shadows? I think there’s one in the 85 series but maybe 82 series for warming up a scene? Some folks swear by a Skylight or 1A filter (very very slightly pink) for color films in daylight.
Thanks for the insights, Matt. Would you recommend the new Ektachrome for portraits? The portrait shot you've included in your video looks really really good, skin tones are great in my eyes and on my screen. Slide films tend to produce sometimes weird skin tones (too red, too green etc.), whats your opinion on using Ektachrome for shooting portraits?
Nice video. I definitely want to shoot some, but I’ll wait for 120 as I prefer shooting MF for film. Hopefully this film is successful enough that they bring out 120 soon
I’d say most contemporary slide ‘looks like digital’ because it’s very fine grain and detailed but the way slide reacts to light and colours will always be completely different to digital. I’d expect that flat lighting to look exactly like you show it, when unedited, on digital. of course you could make it look close to the Ektachrome, but that’s not the point!
Glad to see you're doing so well!. why is traveling to Chillicoffee, Ohio so expensive? guess you put your hometown on the map and all the Hotels are fleecing the tourists.
Did he neglect to mention which one was the ektachrome one and which was the iPhone? I think it's pretty obvious but it's probably worth mentioning for people who are less knowledgeable.
Unless you watched with your eyes closed up to that point you could easily tell which is which. The green is really distinctive and the aspect ratio is different too.
Way back in "the day" when I took a college photography class, we required to shoot slide film. Because what you shot was what you got. Because is NOT forgiving slide film can make you a better photographer.
Those first shots are brilliant! Unless it was just for the purpose of this informative video Im puzzled why youd shoot slide to digitize it, because what makes it special is it's a physical, tangible medium. You can make digital photos look like film for a lot less money and hassle. Nice video though!
It seems that the blue and green color cast for these images is due to the subjects rather than the film stock. Would you see the same for neutral subjects?
Hi, I also noticed you seem to always be shooting with a rangefinder camera. Is there a reason you prefer this to an SLR or have I just not watched enough of you videos yet?
No surprise at all that a daylight balanced film yields "blue shadows". This is not a defect of the film. A Kelvin meter would show you the same. Unlike a digital camera set on AWB, or color negative film that has the color channels tweaked during the scan, slide film is one shot, no post-processing. If you want to skew the results, you have to apply CC filters to the lens.
![[Limbus Company - PV] Chapter.7 - Oblivion](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VUpkXPkvoxU/mqdefault.jpg)
I really bought 60 rolls of ektachrome after watching this video. 10/10 recommend. I even bought 60 Leica m6's for every roll! THANKS MATT!
Price of 60 rolls can afford a Leica M body already, wow
Joe Hsu He sold all the prints from each roll to afford his Leica fetish.
@DIEGO AVALOS Nah... Just random ID tho 😂
Andrervizu might I have one when you finished some rolls?
So... watcha gonna do with 3600 Leica M6's?
Ive been shooting this in 120 and wow, its just so amazing to get a 6x6 image you can hold up to the light. And of course, the colors are fantastic
I’m hoping Ektachrome will come out for 120 someday...
It will, it has been anounced by Kodak at Photokina earlier this year
I had a roll of it from the 80's.
J Mathews YES
It is and for sheet
I’ve got good news for you bub
That first image of the barn. Killer shot. I used Ektachome the last time it was out, but will pick it up again after watching this.
Nice colors- it doesn't look "digital" to me either. Though I think that is a funny critique because pictures taken on a digital camera are edited in so many different ways, including to look like different film stocks, so in that sense, the same critique could be given to any film stock today.
The portrait at the end really sells it.
My favourite images in this video are,
3:31 smoke stack reflection in shadow
6:24 cassette tapes and records in low light
Both are truly beautiful!
The new Ektachrome is absolutely beautiful. I have plenty on hand and will continue to shoot it as much as I can. I pay for processing only and view it on my projector after I mount the slides at home.
Try stereo camera and stereo slide viewer
I don’t remember see Matt this close in any video over the years lol the head shot vid! 👍
Glad to see you back shooting man! Those first few shots with the contrast of the reds and the blues of the sky/smoke stack were excellent! Would love to see some prints of them!
I quite like the blue cast in the shadows. I guess just cos it makes a difference from the green cast you often get in cheaper stocks (particularly Fuji, in my experience). Maybe also because in movies, night scenes are often lit with a similar blue hue? I'm not sure, but it's quite pleasing to me
The photo at 6:43 is outstanding. If that doesn't sell E100, I don't know what will.
Definitely agree with your metering for highlights on those smokestack pics, gives it a very distinct feel and really brings out the richness in the highlights that look unique to slide film. I'm off to the Albanian Alps next week with a Pentax LX and some Ektar and Ektachrome, and hadn't shot any film for 20+ years until last month. Couple of useful tips for me there - bracket and meter more for highlights than the Ektar. Thanks! btw, did you use polarizing filters for any of those shots? I'm guessing not with the low light shots?
I can understand why some might call this a "digital" look. Much of what is perceived as film photography's character is the highlight shoulder that results from exposing for shadows and as a consequence slightly blowing highlights in negative film. Shooting on slide film as you have, deliberately stays away from this part of the film's tonal range so we are left with more subtle cues of the film's character, which people might have more difficulty picking up.
you should try projecting the slides! It's magical
If you're shooting the same scene on one roll, instead of bracketing, clip test the film when it's processed. This was normal practice back in the day. The processor cuts off a 2-3 inch piece of the film and processes it normally. Then you judge the result and can then push or pull the remaining film in the process. Admittedly, this was used more with 120 but there's no reason why you can't do it with 35mm. It doesn't tolerate big pushes and pulls, but if it's an important shot, just a 1/3 or 1/2 stop tweak can make a big difference.
Lovely work Matt. I've been pondering 35mm lenses for my M2 and I've so far discounted the 1.4, but these results are making me reconsider.
Matt - You probably know this, but just putting it out there: Slide film was meant to be projected with a tungsten-bulb projector, which would make the image appear warmer than you're seeing in the scans. Getting prints from positives was almost never a thing. The proper way to do it was with a Cibachrome (now Ilfochrome) process, which was painfully expensive, or the 'cheap' way was to do a contact-exposure of the slide film onto regular negative film which ruined the color, grain, and sharpness in the resulting prints. Kodachrome was the warm-tone slide film (known for intense red/orange/yellow reproduction) but the reason Ektachrome was popular with hobbyists was that you could do the E-6 process for it pretty easily as long as you controlled the temperature tightly, but the K-14 process for Kodachrome was a pain in the ass and not really suitable for home processing.
Nice Photos! Love the look of the film, the colours are just so nice!
well this was perfect timing... I just bought 8 rolls of ektachrome for my Leica while i'm on a trip to London!
Do you put them later on instagram or somewhere? I would love to see them.
I bought 7 rolls but haven’t felt inspired to shoot with them yet. I am usually tightly bound to shoot bw film and it’s hard for me to visualize the world in color. Nevertheless I am keeping these in my fridge for a special day. Thanks to Matt and others i already have some idea of how the film behaves. So I don’t have to experiment myself.. the rolls are expensive and I am holding off shooing for some unique experiences.
@@23bogyo definitely. @alecilstrup on instagram
Got some on order, should be arriving in the next couple of days. Looking forward to trying it.
I use Ektachrome almost exclusively now! What I realized is that with slide film I pay for developing only $11.50/roll and I cut, mount and scan myself since that is super easy with slide film and therefore that is cheaper than developing and lab scanning C41 which I don't want to scan myself since it's a PITA. For me ektachrome is a winner.
Great video and great photos. I wasn't going to try Ektachrome because of some negative reviews I've seen, but after seeing your results, I've got a roll on order and look forward to trying it out. Thanks Matt
I would like to get a hold of a few rolls in the future, but unfortunately I can't get mail right now as I am living in a hotel while I rebuild my life after the fires in Northern California, I was waiting for a few rolls of Gold 200 but I haven't figured out how to get that shipped to the hotel. I only have three 35mm cameras with me unfortunately but they should be enough to capture a few shots while I am in limbo. Thinking of accumulating enough images to maybe create a photo book of this whole ordeal. Anyway great video as usual Matt really like how you approached shooting slide film. -Shane
I've got five rolls finally shipping out to me, now that it's closer to winter the light should be more suitable for slide film. It really is it's best in morning/evening light or in cloudy and overcast conditions (most of the year is harsh sun here)
Interesting point. I live on the Gold Coast in Australia which means it's basically summer all year round. Not sure how I'd go with it....
@@thememoryguardians if the light is nice the film will be happy. The national geographic photographers used to shoot slide and would do most of their photographing outside at dawn or dusk and not much during the day
Your video was so well done! I enjoyed all of your explanations for the shots. The pictures themselves are also very good.
The tones in your barn shot are epic!
Yesss! I love Ektachrome! You’re looking great man!
I really like your videos, your content but, mainly, your tone.
It is relaxing to hear you speaking so calmly and didactically.
In a world of youtubers screaming for attention, with quick mounts, sound effects and almost epileptic images, your channel is a space of calm and good content.
Congratulations, man. =)
Awesome to see you return to the videos Matt :D
Chillicothe the paper city? Try Scranton Pennsylvania haha sweet video can't wait to shoot me some new ektachrome
I still can’t get over how tiny that voigtlander is
Try the Leica original M35/1.4 Summilux 😏
Don’t tempt me! As far as I’m aware my 35L is about as small as it gets at 1.4 for Canon full frame..
That's what your mom said!
Uhhh, wait, no...
I have shot just one roll of the new Ektachrome and had it developed by the best lab in this area. I thought the results were excellent. I don't have a Leica, but do you a very nice Olympus OM2n that I have owned since new that meters quite well. For slide film over the last couple of years I have mostly used Velvia 50 & 100. My experience from only one roll, so not a lot of use yet, is that Ektachrome is a much more versatile film than V 50 in that the Ektachrome people skin shots was very good. And the landscape shots I took where the color popped showed up on the film with just outstanding results. However, Velvia 50 in some landscape instances is just an over the top blast of color that gives you results that cannot be got any other way. The V 100 is just OK to me.
Ektachrome is 13 bucks as is Provia and V100. Velvia 50 is 17 bucks on the web today. This combined with 4 extra bucks to develop and you have about $10 full dollars more than using Ektar or Portra. I had hoped that Ektachrome would come in at more like $8-10 a roll. But I am sure Kodak spent lots of money coming up with this new formulation and need to get some of it back. But it does put to total price of buying the film and develop - scanning up there. This compared with Fuji 200 at $4.00 a roll and very good develop and scan by George's Camera locally at $13 puts you at $17 total. You can even add a set of prints for +$2.00. So half what Ektacrhome will cost. If money was no object I would shoot a lot of Ektachrome. I still have 7 more rolls to shoot.
I got very good results in full mid day sun. So take this film with you on your next trip to a National Park along with some Ektar.
I just picked up an M2 and the same lens! I love it!
My mother went to art school (painting, I think) and graduated around 1950-51. When she traveled, she would always shoot slides; she loved shooting slides. I remember looking at slides in our living room on a slide projector. Now, decades later, I'm a beginning amateur photographer using my mom's old Pentax K1000. Today when people shoot slides, do they get the slides printed out like a photograph, or do they get them saved to a digital format, or do they show them to friends on old slide projectors (I would ask my mother but she has long since passed).
What's interesting is I don't necessarily like the look of the film when scanned, but I love the idea of having film strips that appear as they were shot.
Girl Behind the Red Door i agree. Slide film is fantastic as a physical medium and I wish I had more ways to easily show it
I like the slides better too. Once it's scanned then you see all the flaws.
If you see the slides projected on a screen, there’s really nothing like it.
@@ArrowTop or when you hold one up to the light with your naked eye. The detail....
Use Tetenal E6 instead of Fuji C6R, I shall suggest. With a detailed comparison, the Tetenal chemical brings the most out of Ektachrome, while Fuji chemical makes the image looks underexposed.
Good video Matt. I still shoot film occasionally and I think I will give Ektachrome a try after watching this.
that shot of the leaves is particularly nice
Your images look great on Ektachrome. Nice change from the ever popular Portra.
I think the colors are really great!
Great test... the colors look amazing! Can't wait to try this film :)
Wonderful. Please do more videos with the Voigtlander 35mm f1.4.
Hey Matt,
thanks for the Video! I'm really looking forward to see see the results of ektachrome myself. I just packed my bag for an upcoming trip to south korea and put some rolls of ektachrome in my camera bag as well. My go to films are Portra 400 and HP5 but as you said, it is very important to support Kodak with their decision to bring back a film stock.
greetings and much love from europe
Those flat light shots are gorgeous. Going to have to try out a roll here :)
Little trick to soften skin tones in the 80's for fashion on this film was to reverse process it (as a color negative). Seems to work well to soften highlights too in my experience (I have used C41).
Thanks Matt, great video and pics. I recently shot my first slide & Ektachrome roll ever, and the slides look great. I also scanned them via Epson v600 w/Vuescan and even bought a light box to lead my Lightroom/Photoshop edit along with the real slides, since scans look awful and, of course, a bit out of focus. It would be interesting then if you could do a video about the scanning process of those slides, to see if we can really achieve the slide results - I actually like the fact that with slides you have a real colors reference! Thanks
Great video Matt as usual, love the results especially in those scenes 4:35 on wards. I just shot a roll today alongside my M8 for a bit of fun, looking forward to comparing the results.
Awesome Matt, Looking forward to putting some Ektachrome through my Nikon F4, Sweet leica by the way. Thanks mate.
Great images Matt. Perfect use of this film. It's sold out everywhere. Eager to get my hands on some. Back order is placed
Hey Matt, great video as usual! Could you also do a video on how to care/clean for the exterior of your camera?
I am using the same lens, great to see how it renders ektachrome, thank you for that. I can see that you like to shoot wide open but lately my sweet spot is at f2 but I understand that its a 100 speed film so that 1.4 became really useful. Can't wait for you next video. I love watching your videos, it is like coffee, for my photography, you know what I mean :D.
Wow the skin tones look beautiful
My local shop has run out twice I think. I'm not sure I'm good enough of a film photographer yet to do this film justice, but I'd love to try if I can find any soon.
Beautiful shots as always, Matt. Thanks for sharing.
I just found your channel, awesome stuff, nee work! Did you ever do a video on how you meter and select ISO. I recently started shooting film and would like to learn about how you meter and expose.
Thanks!
Thanks and liked the pictures. Just a thought. Wonder if you could shoot side by side with a Fuji Provia or still better Velvia. I guess Velvia will sparkle in the dull weather.
really great video. I was waiting for you to do a review of Ektachrome specifically, doesnt seem to be many good reviews on it yet.
You had some really nice compositions in there, nice work man
My local place still hasn't got Ektachrome because of a problem with their distributor.
I only shoot slides for colour so the hype is real.
PS : Use an 81A,B or even C filter if you want to remove the blue tendency, i shoot slides through an 81A , always.
Great video/review as always! I’m waiting for the 120 version of Ektachrome. Until then I’m enjoying others work with it :)
Great video Matt, rad photos!!!
man that is one dope film! and really hope to try this one soon!
really enjoyed this, hope to see more.
and thanks for sharing all this super dope content with us
I think slide film is always best viewed with a projector and unless you send it away for professional scanning. I've always preferred scanning negatives rather than slide because the scan better imho with home scanners. I have an Epson v600 and Plustek 8200i.
I won't shoot slide any more it's just not for me. I'll stick with Portra for my colour film and Hp5 or Kentmere for black and white. Also have some cheap Fujicolor c200 and Kodak colorplus for days when I want to shoot with my Olympus Trip 35 just for fun.
Good to see Kodak bringing back this film though, just not for me.
That's very nice colour coming from that film.
Thanks for the review. Great job.
Seems to me you gave the film a fair shake. I love slide film. This has made my year. I think I will to return to photography. As in film that is.
Glad to see you back Matt :-) Crackin vid too. I'll be investing in a few rolls :-)
Been waiting for a video from you on the new Ektachrome!
HI Mat, Google, says its I-phone is the most popular camera on flicker & more popular than Canon/Nikon combined. Great vid by the way.
I'd say there is probably at least another ½ stop or more that could have been had on the upper end, which would have brought the shadows up a ½ or more as well. But if this is the desired look then it works. Dmax is Dmax, no matter if it's in E100 or Portra 400. It's just that E100 is more like an Italian sports car, while Portra is more like a Chevy Suburban. E100 goes from 0 to a Dmax of about 3.8 in about 9 EV (2.8 LOG lux-secs) flat, whereas Portra 400 goes from 0 to a lesser 3.0 Dmax over about 13 EV (3.8 LOG lux-secs). This is also why slide film is more contrasty or "punchy", while color negs have a more washed-out look (IMHO) but also have higher exposure forgiveness. The Suburban is more forgiving than the Ferrari. But the Ferrari looks better.
When shooting chromes, much of what you end up with comes after development, in the "digital darkroom" scanning process. Not sure about the V850 scanner, but the Nikon 5000ED/9000ED scanners have adjustable LED brightness, allowing the scanning software (e.g. Silverfast in my case) to do a multiple pass scan with increased exposure during the 2nd pass. This can dig more original detail out of the shadows even if they are approaching the Dmax end of the characteristic curve. Your mileage may vary though, depending on the Dmax of your scanner, light source noise, etc. I have found that lab scans never get to this level of care, as the scan techs are working on a scans per hour basis, not a quality per image basis. If you want it scanned right, you'll have to either do it yourself or pay someone else to do it for you.
P.S. If you want a Nikon Coolscan _DO NOT_ purchase the 4000ED/8000ED models. These had faulty mechanisms that caused banding in most units. This was eliminated in the redesigned 5000ED/9000ED models. This is also why a 9000ED may be listed on eBay for 3x that of an 8000ED, for example. If you only have 135 strips/slides, go for the 5000ED. Its size, feature set, and accessories are optimized around 135. The 9000ED will do both 120 and 135, but it costs more and is not as convenient for 135 scanning--the 9000ED is really geared toward 120. There is also a Coolscan V-ED model. I don't know much about it, except that it's an older model that was eventually replaced by the 5000ED.
Is it the Leica's excellent lens or the pro lab? Your photos look so clean. I can't get this quality out of my homedeveloped and scanned film.
Would love to see some of your "go and shoot" moments in form of videos. Your instagram story is so much fun!
I‘m looking forward to a review of the lens. Mine is mounted on my Bessa R2A and actually exposes Streetpan 400
Those shots are great!
Another very informative video Matt. I have just caught with your channel after being recommended by Travis Mortz. While watching an old video about scanning with the epson v600 and the problems with the software going to sleep, if he is still watching your channel I would like to thank marcelobpereiras for his solution. Thanks Matt and keep them coming.
I hope Provia isn’t discontinued just yet. Ektachrome is somehow even more expensive.
Even so the retailer did rise up the price of RDP&RVP, sad tho...
They gotta recoup the costs from the massive investment that was bringing it back!
the price of Provia is nowadays in 35mm is £17 and £13 for Ektachrome
wow, 135 RDP at £17? It is still £8.4 in China... @@girmonsproductions
that green color cast has to do smth extra in the bright sunlight conditions... would be nice to see your take on well light scenes
you should try a slide projector. its a joy to use. the quality of scans is very limited.
Matt, great video on Ektachrome! I wonder if warming filters would help with the blue cast in the shadows? I think there’s one in the 85 series but maybe 82 series for warming up a scene? Some folks swear by a Skylight or 1A filter (very very slightly pink) for color films in daylight.
Thanks for the insights, Matt. Would you recommend the new Ektachrome for portraits? The portrait shot you've included in your video looks really really good, skin tones are great in my eyes and on my screen. Slide films tend to produce sometimes weird skin tones (too red, too green etc.), whats your opinion on using Ektachrome for shooting portraits?
Kodachrome was better for portraits since it was very warm. Ektachrome was more for landscapes.
Nice video. I definitely want to shoot some, but I’ll wait for 120 as I prefer shooting MF for film. Hopefully this film is successful enough that they bring out 120 soon
Great video man! Production level is top notch 👌
I’d say most contemporary slide ‘looks like digital’ because it’s very fine grain and detailed but the way slide reacts to light and colours will always be completely different to digital. I’d expect that flat lighting to look exactly like you show it, when unedited, on digital. of course you could make it look close to the Ektachrome, but that’s not the point!
You’re from Chillicothe? Awesome! I’m from Dayton
The new film handles browns quite well, but no so much greens. Fuji Pro160 and Velvia 50 for greens.
Glad to see you're doing so well!. why is traveling to Chillicoffee, Ohio so expensive? guess you put your hometown on the map and all the Hotels are fleecing the tourists.
that photo of the record shop is the shit.
Did he neglect to mention which one was the ektachrome one and which was the iPhone? I think it's pretty obvious but it's probably worth mentioning for people who are less knowledgeable.
Unless you watched with your eyes closed up to that point you could easily tell which is which. The green is really distinctive and the aspect ratio is different too.
James van der Moezel The blue one is the Ektachrome. :p
Way back in "the day" when I took a college photography class, we required to shoot slide film. Because what you shot was what you got. Because is NOT forgiving slide film can make you a better photographer.
You know, the blues in the pictures make me think of Maxfield Parrish...
Try an 81EF filter to warm up those bluish shadows. :-)
Those first shots are brilliant! Unless it was just for the purpose of this informative video Im puzzled why youd shoot slide to digitize it, because what makes it special is it's a physical, tangible medium. You can make digital photos look like film for a lot less money and hassle. Nice video though!
It seems that the blue and green color cast for these images is due to the subjects rather than the film stock. Would you see the same for neutral subjects?
I assume that the E100 image was the more colorful one compared to the iPhone image?
Make the whole other video about developing e-6 color slide film!!
Those chimney photos, omg...
Really hoping for them to make some of this in 120
Amazing video!May I ask What sense where you using ?
Hi, I also noticed you seem to always be shooting with a rangefinder camera. Is there a reason you prefer this to an SLR or have I just not watched enough of you videos yet?
No surprise at all that a daylight balanced film yields "blue shadows". This is not a defect of the film. A Kelvin meter would show you the same. Unlike a digital camera set on AWB, or color negative film that has the color channels tweaked during the scan, slide film is one shot, no post-processing. If you want to skew the results, you have to apply CC filters to the lens.
yeay! Chillicothe mentioned! Go BUCKS!