Thanks for watching my video! For more info on this printer, please check out the JGAurora wiki: jgaurorawiki.com/a5 For help and support, please join us on the forum: jgauroraforum.com
If JGAurora continues to refuse to supply the firmware source to its customers, it will only hurt them in the end. Customers know when they see Marlin that they are entitled to the source code, and it only angers customers when vendors flout their obligations under the GPL. The Marlin project roundly condemns all vendors that refuse to supply the source code to their customers. Our response is to recommend that customers who want a properly-calibrated set of configurations and a more modern version of Marlin use the upcoming release (1.1.9) or one of the current "nightly" bug-fix branches, which includes a set of configurations for the JGAurora supplied by Telli Mantelli, Kris Waclawski, Michael Gilardi, and Samuel Pinches. In the meantime, we in the Marlin project will continue to speak out about JGAurora and other vendors who are inconsiderate to their customers and the open source community.
Their support really sucks, I'm regretting buying one. Going on 4 days and they haven't shipped it yet, might have to request a refund, that will take another Month!. :(
My MAJOR complaint with JGAurora is their customer support. It really sucks as they always ask a question when answering. It almost feels like they are trying to avoid the warranty. I will not be buying another printer from them as I am trying to set up a farm. Thank you Samuel for what you have done for the community.
Hi Sam and yes they did cut corners. Out the box it works fine but parts soon start to ware and go wrong which is made worse by the JGAurora help desk who have trouble reading English when it suites them and waiting six weeks for parts to arrive is not what you call fun. I don't need to tell you why you would not stick a new bed glass on top of the old one which is what JGAurora wants you to do (Saves them money) after the black diamond coating pulls off the old bed and you wait six weeks for the glass to arrive, minus the separate bed only to find the new part is a factory reject and has hairs stuck under the black coating. Being an electrical engineer myself I can see that many of the parts were produced on a low budget but from a distance the JG did look sexy to the eye, hence my mistake
Dear Samuel you are one of the best reviewers of 3d printers that I have ever seen .... Wow you know your stuff very good ... What a great review and analysis you have made.. Thanks you are the best .... Very Very informative !!!!
Great review Sam, thank you !! Would you suggest the Creality CR-10S or the JGAurora A5 to a first time buyer like myself? I'm looking for reliability and good quality prints. Yes the Creality is more expensive, but I'd rather spend a bit more if it means it is a much better choice. Would appreciate your professional opinion.
Great review, I can appreciate the detail you went into here. Also having the front panels off and exposing those beautiful components was a huge help for me. There were a few criticisms I had though. Would make a list of things I liked about your review, but I do not think you would care. Let me know if you wanted both I guess. When you talk about aluminum extrusion biased printers being quieter, you fail to mention that they require far more maintenance. Also if you are going in to this detail, then you should check if the Y rails are greased and aligned properly. Especially after you saw the wonderfully machined components, clearly something is worth investigating there and is not something that should be just written-off The big gripe I had was when you talked about the missing metal making the frame weaker. Take a good look at where that material is missing from, it is outside the plane of the forces that part of the frame is exposed to. Though I would have rather seen perforations there instead of one big hole. Then you could get away with a thin sheet of that light diffuser material. Even throw in some extra colors for the customer to customize. Hey, it would kill some of the rattling. Please be careful before you name drop a printer you have not yet reviewed. How would you feel if someone bought a printer because you mentioned an advantage it had and they had a horrible experience? Would have been nice if you mentioned that the MKS Gen L is a 2650 mega board. Linking your other video on modding the firmware there would be nice too. Also would have been cool if you mentioned that you will have to disconnect the touch display before flashing to a MKS Gen L as it uses the only COM port.
Anyone700 thanks for your comments - all excellent comments, and I’ll take that feedback onboard. I just want to mention specifically that this model is different to the newer model A5S, even though this printer appears almost the same. They added reinforcements to the XZ gantry in particular which improved the rigidity where this one was lacking. Sadly, the machined components were only on the first generation of the A5, they quickly moved to injection moulding on all future machines. I do take reasonable care when mentioning other printers, as I have other friends who own those machines, and we talk openly about their strengths and weaknesses. The LCD firmware issue was not something we discovered until months after this review. If I was going to do this review again, I would have been far more critical of the MKS LCD TFT28 module as it is unreliable and a source of much grief in some cases.
The Z axis can not be adjusted if you have a glass heated bed. You need to replace the plastic limit switch holder. The plastic cooling fan doesn't work well enough, everyone replaced a few parts near it The stepper drivers could need more cooling The top of rods are wobbling and could be better with a guide Tension isn't user-friendly to adjust on the X axis strap, there are 3d printable parts that can help. In the 1st revision of the A3S and A5, the 24v red wire of the heated bed can break apart, melt, is a fire hazard, the plastic chain should be removed. You could add a cheap 8-pin external SD Card glued underneath the machine for easier access. Not sure if the stepper drivers are properly adjusted, especially after replacing them cause they don't last forever. If you can fix all that on every machine, it's good enough to be used in a shop 24/7/365.
But the A5 comes with a glass heated bed? The stepper drivers are fine, unless you go for TMC then they definitely will require fan cooling. Top of rods should be loose, this is by design to avoid z-banding. The wiring issues are certainly frustrating and the overall design is very poor for servicing and maintenance.
I found the quality of the prints to be just fine but the JGAurora soon falls to bits once you start using it more than once a week and the help deck is useless and dare I say, tells lies as you find out six weeks later when parts don;t arrive and the guarantee from AliExpress is not worth the paper it's printed on so save your money, this is not a printer i would recommend to anyone.
Well I want to buy my first printer, I liked this one but I also saw other videos and everyone agrees that it always has some defect and that is what discourages me from buying it. For $400 or $500 which printer would you recommend? I am looking for nothing complicated to take out of the box and print, a printer with printing measures of 200 mm * 200 mm or 300 mm. greetings from argentina.
Hi I am new to 3d printer and after your review of this printer I did get one just arrived 3 days ago. And I think it's the updated version. 1st I try it with stock leveling and try to print a small 10CM piece with the included filament with jgaurora a5 and it was fine. Then I installed Marlin 1.1.8V and and changed the filament to PLA black color and do a leveling bed .. and when I try to print the filament will not stick to bed at all . I try different temperatures on nozzle and bed but still no luck. I am getting crazy about it . What wrong did I do here. Please help me
Saeed Al-Amri hi, we have created a few community resources including a FAQ page. There is a page there all about how to make prints stick: jgaurorawiki.com/a5/faq#problemmy-prints-will-not-stick-to-the-bed Let me know how you go. You can join our forum too if you want: jgauroraforum.com
Sam, sorry to keep bothering you on this but I have other questions about the spacers.... Are the spacers supposed to stay on top of the y-axis mount holes? Or do they sink in the holes? Second, how tight are you supposed to tighten the leveling screws? When I home the printer, the nozzle pushes down on the bed quite a bit. And I can’t tighten the leveling screws anymore. Thanks!
Your custom firmware is giving me all sorts of gyp. I downloaded it just now and it wouldn't even compile... something about removing all the #includes from the config files. So I downloaded it again from a link I found in a elsewhere (possibly on one of your other vids) and it compiled and uploaded ok but now the X and Y axis are reversed and the printer won't even home. Why the need for messing about with arduino in the first place why not just make a hex file available ?
I too had the same compile problem as seafax. I noticed that commenting out the line in Conditionals.h the compile completed. Not sure if this is the real fix or is there something else we need to do? By the way i'm using your latest custom firmware and Arduino IDE 1.8.5.
Okay, okay, I will give it to you when it comes to the metric system... but I will damned if I ever have to say aluminium. Nice video, I am still trying to decide between this and the creality3d cr10.
Samuel Pinches I'm a tinkerer, a lot of my planned projects include printing parts for custom pc's. A large bed is pretty ideal for some of the parts I have In mind. I am leaning towards the CR10 I think.
Awesome, thank you for the quick response! I hear this printer only gets up to 250 or 260 celsius? I am new to 3d printing but I hear those kinds of materials require an all metal hot end plus at least 260 celsius minimum nozzle temp.
im currently looking to buy my first printer and need something that can handle pc and nylon. Apparently the cr-10 can handle pc at 265 celsius after a couple slight modifications.
Cool thanks for the recommendations! Do you know what the highest nozzle temp is on the A5 out of the box? Like what's the highest the firmware will let you set it to? I was looking at the x5s but it seems alot of people can't get it to print decently without doing a ton of mods. My only option would be to order such mods through the mail as this would be my first 3d printer and I'm not sure if the x5s is even capable of printing mods straight out of the box. I guess the frame is flimsy and the heated doesn't even match the voltage on the motherboard or something like that, but perhaps they've fixed this on the x5sa and/or the newer x5s machines idk.
Thanks for watching my video! For more info on this printer, please check out the JGAurora wiki: jgaurorawiki.com/a5
For help and support, please join us on the forum: jgauroraforum.com
Hey Samuel. You're review is one of the best 3d printer reviews on RUclips and I wish you had more reviews of other popular printers.
Wow, thank you David, I'm glad you found it helpful! I do have other 3D printer reviews planned for the not-too-distant future!
If JGAurora continues to refuse to supply the firmware source to its customers, it will only hurt them in the end. Customers know when they see Marlin that they are entitled to the source code, and it only angers customers when vendors flout their obligations under the GPL. The Marlin project roundly condemns all vendors that refuse to supply the source code to their customers.
Our response is to recommend that customers who want a properly-calibrated set of configurations and a more modern version of Marlin use the upcoming release (1.1.9) or one of the current "nightly" bug-fix branches, which includes a set of configurations for the JGAurora supplied by Telli Mantelli, Kris Waclawski, Michael Gilardi, and Samuel Pinches.
In the meantime, we in the Marlin project will continue to speak out about JGAurora and other vendors who are inconsiderate to their customers and the open source community.
Their support really sucks, I'm regretting buying one. Going on 4 days and they haven't shipped it yet, might have to request a refund, that will take another Month!. :(
Heyy they have released it now
My MAJOR complaint with JGAurora is their customer support. It really sucks as they always ask a question when answering. It almost feels like they are trying to avoid the warranty. I will not be buying another printer from them as I am trying to set up a farm.
Thank you Samuel for what you have done for the community.
wow, thanks for going into so much detail. that's unique compared to the other vids for this printer.
Hi Sam and yes they did cut corners.
Out the box it works fine but parts soon start to ware and go wrong which is made worse by the JGAurora help desk who have trouble reading English when it suites them and waiting six weeks for parts to arrive is not what you call fun.
I don't need to tell you why you would not stick a new bed glass on top of the old one which is what JGAurora wants you to do (Saves them money) after the black diamond coating pulls off the old bed and you wait six weeks for the glass to arrive, minus the separate bed only to find the new part is a factory reject and has hairs stuck under the black coating.
Being an electrical engineer myself I can see that many of the parts were produced on a low budget but from a distance the JG did look sexy to the eye, hence my mistake
Hello Sam, Thanks for your help, when I did not get any further, you had the right answers for me! Many thanks .... Kurt
Dear Samuel you are one of the best reviewers of 3d printers that I have ever seen .... Wow you know your stuff very good ... What a great review and analysis you have made.. Thanks you are the best .... Very Very informative !!!!
Great Review! And thanks for the link to my Mesh Bed Leveling Tutorial.
Thank you for this super detailed and technical review!
Great review Sam, thank you !! Would you suggest the Creality CR-10S or the JGAurora A5 to a first time buyer like myself? I'm looking for reliability and good quality prints. Yes the Creality is more expensive, but I'd rather spend a bit more if it means it is a much better choice. Would appreciate your professional opinion.
Had both of those..dont bother and get the Anycubic I3 Mega. Solid Prusa clone!
Great review, I can appreciate the detail you went into here. Also having the front panels off and exposing those beautiful components was a huge help for me. There were a few criticisms I had though. Would make a list of things I liked about your review, but I do not think you would care. Let me know if you wanted both I guess.
When you talk about aluminum extrusion biased printers being quieter, you fail to mention that they require far more maintenance. Also if you are going in to this detail, then you should check if the Y rails are greased and aligned properly. Especially after you saw the wonderfully machined components, clearly something is worth investigating there and is not something that should be just written-off
The big gripe I had was when you talked about the missing metal making the frame weaker. Take a good look at where that material is missing from, it is outside the plane of the forces that part of the frame is exposed to. Though I would have rather seen perforations there instead of one big hole. Then you could get away with a thin sheet of that light diffuser material. Even throw in some extra colors for the customer to customize. Hey, it would kill some of the rattling.
Please be careful before you name drop a printer you have not yet reviewed. How would you feel if someone bought a printer because you mentioned an advantage it had and they had a horrible experience?
Would have been nice if you mentioned that the MKS Gen L is a 2650 mega board. Linking your other video on modding the firmware there would be nice too. Also would have been cool if you mentioned that you will have to disconnect the touch display before flashing to a MKS Gen L as it uses the only COM port.
Anyone700 thanks for your comments - all excellent comments, and I’ll take that feedback onboard. I just want to mention specifically that this model is different to the newer model A5S, even though this printer appears almost the same. They added reinforcements to the XZ gantry in particular which improved the rigidity where this one was lacking. Sadly, the machined components were only on the first generation of the A5, they quickly moved to injection moulding on all future machines.
I do take reasonable care when mentioning other printers, as I have other friends who own those machines, and we talk openly about their strengths and weaknesses.
The LCD firmware issue was not something we discovered until months after this review. If I was going to do this review again, I would have been far more critical of the MKS LCD TFT28 module as it is unreliable and a source of much grief in some cases.
The Z axis can not be adjusted if you have a glass heated bed.
You need to replace the plastic limit switch holder.
The plastic cooling fan doesn't work well enough, everyone replaced a few parts near it
The stepper drivers could need more cooling
The top of rods are wobbling and could be better with a guide
Tension isn't user-friendly to adjust on the X axis strap, there are 3d printable parts that can help.
In the 1st revision of the A3S and A5, the 24v red wire of the heated bed can break apart, melt, is a fire hazard, the plastic chain should be removed.
You could add a cheap 8-pin external SD Card glued underneath the machine for easier access.
Not sure if the stepper drivers are properly adjusted, especially after replacing them cause they don't last forever.
If you can fix all that on every machine, it's good enough to be used in a shop 24/7/365.
But the A5 comes with a glass heated bed?
The stepper drivers are fine, unless you go for TMC then they definitely will require fan cooling.
Top of rods should be loose, this is by design to avoid z-banding.
The wiring issues are certainly frustrating and the overall design is very poor for servicing and maintenance.
Good review. Can you provide a link for the bed leveling probe? Thanks.
very tempted to get this but a little concerned about the issue regarding failed 3D printed parts I saw in the Nexitech review
I found the quality of the prints to be just fine but the JGAurora soon falls to bits once you start using it more than once a week and the help deck is useless and dare I say, tells lies as you find out six weeks later when parts don;t arrive and the guarantee from AliExpress is not worth the paper it's printed on so save your money, this is not a printer i would recommend to anyone.
I am undecided, do you recommend this printer or not? and in case you don't which one you recommend similar to this one or any for the price.
Well I want to buy my first printer, I liked this one but I also saw other videos and everyone agrees that it always has some defect and that is what discourages me from buying it. For $400 or $500 which printer would you recommend? I am looking for nothing complicated to take out of the box and print, a printer with printing measures of 200 mm * 200 mm or 300 mm. greetings from argentina.
Should the mesh bed leveling be done with a hot bed? Does the auto leveling sensor do the setup with a hot bed prior to start of print?
Great review
What was the minimum size of spacers you ended up using/recomend?
so, that's why i have a warped bed.. because when i level the corners, the fifth point is loose. so IR sensor is good for override this?
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
Hi
I am new to 3d printer and after your review of this printer I did get one just arrived 3 days ago. And I think it's the updated version.
1st I try it with stock leveling and try to print a small 10CM piece with the included filament with jgaurora a5 and it was fine.
Then I installed Marlin 1.1.8V and and changed the filament to PLA black color and do a leveling bed ..
and when I try to print the filament will not stick to bed at all .
I try different temperatures on nozzle and bed but still no luck.
I am getting crazy about it . What wrong did I do here.
Please help me
Saeed Al-Amri hi, we have created a few community resources including a FAQ page. There is a page there all about how to make prints stick: jgaurorawiki.com/a5/faq#problemmy-prints-will-not-stick-to-the-bed
Let me know how you go. You can join our forum too if you want: jgauroraforum.com
@@SamPinchesMakerShop
ruclips.net/video/ACjESHlEY4w/видео.html
pls any one can help with this issue
I hope this review is good because I've bought one and it's on its way. No bad pls.PS I have a Cr-10 mini all ready.
Ok sounds like I might be in for an adventure.
Sam, what is the length of the nylon spacers you use to replace the bed springs with?
You’re right! You used 2 spacers per corner or just 2 in total?
I figured. Thanks!
Sam, sorry to keep bothering you on this but I have other questions about the spacers.... Are the spacers supposed to stay on top of the y-axis mount holes? Or do they sink in the holes? Second, how tight are you supposed to tighten the leveling screws? When I home the printer, the nozzle pushes down on the bed quite a bit. And I can’t tighten the leveling screws anymore. Thanks!
That makes sense! Sorry, I’m new at this. Thanks for the help!
Thanks. I’m on the Facebook group.
Your custom firmware is giving me all sorts of gyp. I downloaded it just now and it wouldn't even compile... something about removing all the #includes from the config files. So I downloaded it again from a link I found in a elsewhere (possibly on one of your other vids) and it compiled and uploaded ok but now the X and Y axis are reversed and the printer won't even home. Why the need for messing about with arduino in the first place why not just make a hex file available ?
I too had the same compile problem as seafax. I noticed that commenting out the line in Conditionals.h the compile completed. Not sure if this is the real fix or is there something else we need to do? By the way i'm using your latest custom firmware and Arduino IDE 1.8.5.
Okay, okay, I will give it to you when it comes to the metric system... but I will damned if I ever have to say aluminium.
Nice video, I am still trying to decide between this and the creality3d cr10.
Samuel Pinches since I have your ear, do you have any opinion or input on the anycubic I3 mega?
Samuel Pinches thanks for the input. Maybe I will just put a picture of all the printers I have been considering on a noteboard and throw a dart 😅
Samuel Pinches I'm a tinkerer, a lot of my planned projects include printing parts for custom pc's. A large bed is pretty ideal for some of the parts I have In mind. I am leaning towards the CR10 I think.
Samuel Pinches thanks a bunch for your input. I will surely subscribe.
They have to listen because my bed is attached with metal clips instead of glue.... Bought my printer last week.
Yes, in most cases they have tried to continuously improve this printer over time, which is good.
will it print nylon and pc?
Awesome, thank you for the quick response! I hear this printer only gets up to 250 or 260 celsius? I am new to 3d printing but I hear those kinds of materials require an all metal hot end plus at least 260 celsius minimum nozzle temp.
im currently looking to buy my first printer and need something that can handle pc and nylon. Apparently the cr-10 can handle pc at 265 celsius after a couple slight modifications.
Cool thanks for the recommendations! Do you know what the highest nozzle temp is on the A5 out of the box? Like what's the highest the firmware will let you set it to? I was looking at the x5s but it seems alot of people can't get it to print decently without doing a ton of mods. My only option would be to order such mods through the mail as this would be my first 3d printer and I'm not sure if the x5s is even capable of printing mods straight out of the box. I guess the frame is flimsy and the heated doesn't even match the voltage on the motherboard or something like that, but perhaps they've fixed this on the x5sa and/or the newer x5s machines idk.