Just remember, the area your waxing will be more durable and more waterproof but will be less breathable. I always wax areas that you want to make more waterproof, like the shoulders, sleeves, and cuffs of a jacket, but maybe not the entire jacket. I also prefer a blow dryer when applying wax. It's just much easier in my opinion. Enjoyed the video!
It's worth mentioning that a lot of outdoor garments are 65% polyester and 35% cotton just like g-1000 and greenland wax (paraffin and beeswax) can be used on basically anything with enough cotton in it
Usually when I tell the lads not to bring the kitchen sink with them when going camping. I will now say there is an exception, ironing boards are welcome.
Instead of using an open flame, which can lead to dangerous accidents, can't you just melt down the block of wax and use a sponge to evenly apply a light coating on your jacket/trousers? You could also use a hairdryer after, to get the manufacturer's matte finish. Just like Barbour, Halley Stevensons, Orvis and others leader brands on wax garments recommend. Was surprised Ben didn't mention this way.
I've tried using the bar, a sponge and a brush. The bar goes a longer way. The sponge I find is the worst as it sucks up too much wax. I've found that brush is best but it covers a lot with one stroke and it is laid on quite thick - end up using more wax but it's fully covered. The bar method is best if you want it to last longer but needing 3+ layers will see you using more energy and time to get less coverage than the brush. The bonus of the bar is that you won't over do it and the garment will inevitably be softer than using the brush. Either way works. Great video!
Most of these wax video's seem to be on dark coloured garments, I've got a Greenland jacket in clay (light blue). I waxed it the other week and it ended up looking like it was tie died. It's not as easy as it looks.
If you’ve got a Fjallraven retail store near you im pretty sure they’ll wax it for free? If you’ve got uneven wax lines you could try tumble drying it on high heat for 20 minutes in an attempt to heat and evenly distribute the wax you’ve applied. If all else fails, add more wax, or wash (rinse) it 1-2 times. This should remove excess wax but leave enough in the material to still be effective. If you wish to completely remove the wax to start over, wash/rinse 3+ times.
The key is getting the garment to lie completely flat without any wrinkles. Ben used the end of the ironing board for tricky areas such as the hood and shoulders. The tie-die effect will fade when you use the jacket, though. Harry
Waxing is designed to help with weather resistance and durability rather than waterproofing, so unfortunately you will still get wet in them during prolonged periods of rain. But as you say, it does help them dry quicker.
Just tried this on my new, first-time washed vidda pro trousers (colour laurel). What a mess! Sure you can rub it in easy enough (tip - slightly warm the bar on a stove or it'll just flake off the bar in bits) , and then heat , with a heat gun on low setting- but it leaves dark streaks all over the trousers which look a complete mess. They'll be Ok for wearing outside in the mountains or when working, but they look like a mess and you wouldn't want to use for leisure unless you want people thinking you've an incontinence problem :) !. Darker garments may look better (less streaky) perhaps.
Oh No! Sorry to hear your first waxing experience was not what you expected. Whilst we agree that lighter colours are more challenging, you can definitely get good results with a little perseverance. Lighter layers will help build up a more even coverage of the wax to help even out the colour and hopefully avoid any accusations of trouser accidents. A light layer of wax with even pressure, heat and repeat, and you should hopefully see an improved result. The other bonus of a wax treatment like Greenland Wax is that you can simply wash it out and start again if you don't like the end result.
Thanks for the reply and the advice. I certainly took my time and applied a light layer, although I found that when the bar was cold it tended to flake, and stick in lumps, so gentle warming on stove helped with the application. Trying different degrees of application, sequentially, on various parts of the trousers, acted as a form of experimentation. Sadly, none were effective, even after some 40 minutes of persistence. Frankly, given that the whole process is such a faff for me, it doesn't represent a good use of time. I'll wash the wax out and either use a silicon spray on the lower parts and the doubled G1000 areas, or just keep them for summer. I have some Hagloffs mountain rugged pants which will have to remain my go-to winter trousers. All the best. @@trekitt
Is there video showing that the wax even works? I’ve seen several videos showing waxed pants get sprayed with water. The water “resistance” doesn’t seem to last for more than a few sprays. Also saw a video just put on DWR on G1000 and got about as good results as the wax. I’m skeptical about this whole wax adds much to the pants concept. Where’s the proof?
Depends a little on the garment. If it is predominantly a stretch softshell fabric, then we'd recommend a wash-in cleaner and proofer from Nikwax or Grangers, but if it's smaller areas then a spray may be more appropriate.
It's not an issue we've experienced, but if you have concerns you can either hand-wash your waxed garments, or run a hot wash cycle without anything in the machine to clear any potential buildup.
I'm looking at purchasing either a Singi Heater G1000 hat, or a similar non G1000 hat such as the Nordic Heater. I at first thought that the G1000 might be the best way to go, but after hearing that the wax doesn't make the fabric "Waterproof", I'm wondering if I'm better off with Fjalraven's non-G1000 fabric (which I can spray with waterproofing spray). Any thoughts as to why one fabric might be better than the other?
You can use DWR spray on G1000 as well, and still enjoy the durability aspect of the material. I'd say DWR doesn't make clothing any more waterproof than wax though.
So I have waxed one of my jacket (forest green colour). Now I have a random dark spots, streaks that looks as if it became dirty, never washed look to it. My pants are in black colour so you can't notice any spots like that. (I usually only wax my pants bottom 6~8" only to help prevent water from soaking and absorbed upward. What to do? what to do? Try applying great heat? Wash it multiples times in a HOT water and hope to remove the wax and try again?
Lighter coloured G-1000 garments will be more likely to show some colour variation when waxed, some people will consider this a patina on their clothing and carry on, but if you would prefer a more uniform look to the waxing, it can be worth washing the jacket and starting again. Be sure to follow the care label for your specific item and don't use excessive heat when washing as it may cause damage. When reapplying the wax, be sure to use multiple light layers, applying heat in between passes, hopefully achieving a more uniform look.
The wax will not make G-1000 waterproof, but will increase it's water resistance. For better overall weather resistance 3 layers of wax is a good start, heating in between each wax application to melt it into the fabric. You can add more wax, but this will also leave the fabric stiffer, less breathable and with a waxier surface finish. Good thing is though that you can wash the wax out if you don't like how it feels. We would recommend starting with 3, try it out in wet weather to see how it performs and if those 3 layers don't offer enough protection you can top up with another one.
You could, can't guarantee you'll have even melting of the Greenland Wax, but should work in theory. When we have another hot day you can give it a go and report back, we'd love to hear how it works.
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Just remember, the area your waxing will be more durable and more waterproof but will be less breathable. I always wax areas that you want to make more waterproof, like the shoulders, sleeves, and cuffs of a jacket, but maybe not the entire jacket. I also prefer a blow dryer when applying wax. It's just much easier in my opinion.
Enjoyed the video!
I got the vidda pro pants with the vents and just decided to wax the piss out of the whole garment
It's worth mentioning that a lot of outdoor garments are 65% polyester and 35% cotton just like g-1000 and greenland wax (paraffin and beeswax) can be used on basically anything with enough cotton in it
Usually when I tell the lads not to bring the kitchen sink with them when going camping. I will now say there is an exception, ironing boards are welcome.
😂
Instead of using an open flame, which can lead to dangerous accidents, can't you just melt down the block of wax and use a sponge to evenly apply a light coating on your jacket/trousers? You could also use a hairdryer after, to get the manufacturer's matte finish. Just like Barbour, Halley Stevensons, Orvis and others leader brands on wax garments recommend. Was surprised Ben didn't mention this way.
It's not a method that Fjallraven actively recommend, but that's not to say it wouldn't work! Harry
I've tried using the bar, a sponge and a brush. The bar goes a longer way. The sponge I find is the worst as it sucks up too much wax. I've found that brush is best but it covers a lot with one stroke and it is laid on quite thick - end up using more wax but it's fully covered. The bar method is best if you want it to last longer but needing 3+ layers will see you using more energy and time to get less coverage than the brush.
The bonus of the bar is that you won't over do it and the garment will inevitably be softer than using the brush.
Either way works. Great video!
Most of these wax video's seem to be on dark coloured garments, I've got a Greenland jacket in clay (light blue). I waxed it the other week and it ended up looking like it was tie died. It's not as easy as it looks.
If you’ve got a Fjallraven retail store near you im pretty sure they’ll wax it for free? If you’ve got uneven wax lines you could try tumble drying it on high heat for 20 minutes in an attempt to heat and evenly distribute the wax you’ve applied. If all else fails, add more wax, or wash (rinse) it 1-2 times. This should remove excess wax but leave enough in the material to still be effective. If you wish to completely remove the wax to start over, wash/rinse 3+ times.
The key is getting the garment to lie completely flat without any wrinkles. Ben used the end of the ironing board for tricky areas such as the hood and shoulders. The tie-die effect will fade when you use the jacket, though. Harry
hehe, you can get cup of tea as a bonus in the end, that cracked me :D
I got the Fjallraven singhi wool parka - bought greenland wax, need to do it add now before Canadian harsh winter -40C on prairies😭
... 2 years and nobody's bothered to ask if he used the greenland wax on his 'stache?
Asking the hard hitting questions here 😂
If he grows the handlebars back maybe there's a collab opportunity... 🤔
i fully waxed my Fjallraven barent pro.And they still get soaked only difference is they dry quicker.
Waxing is designed to help with weather resistance and durability rather than waterproofing, so unfortunately you will still get wet in them during prolonged periods of rain. But as you say, it does help them dry quicker.
Just tried this on my new, first-time washed vidda pro trousers (colour laurel). What a mess! Sure you can rub it in easy enough (tip - slightly warm the bar on a stove or it'll just flake off the bar in bits) , and then heat , with a heat gun on low setting- but it leaves dark streaks all over the trousers which look a complete mess. They'll be Ok for wearing outside in the mountains or when working, but they look like a mess and you wouldn't want to use for leisure unless you want people thinking you've an incontinence problem :) !. Darker garments may look better (less streaky) perhaps.
Oh No! Sorry to hear your first waxing experience was not what you expected. Whilst we agree that lighter colours are more challenging, you can definitely get good results with a little perseverance. Lighter layers will help build up a more even coverage of the wax to help even out the colour and hopefully avoid any accusations of trouser accidents. A light layer of wax with even pressure, heat and repeat, and you should hopefully see an improved result. The other bonus of a wax treatment like Greenland Wax is that you can simply wash it out and start again if you don't like the end result.
Thanks for the reply and the advice. I certainly took my time and applied a light layer, although I found that when the bar was cold it tended to flake, and stick in lumps, so gentle warming on stove helped with the application. Trying different degrees of application, sequentially, on various parts of the trousers, acted as a form of experimentation. Sadly, none were effective, even after some 40 minutes of persistence. Frankly, given that the whole process is such a faff for me, it doesn't represent a good use of time. I'll wash the wax out and either use a silicon spray on the lower parts and the doubled G1000 areas, or just keep them for summer. I have some Hagloffs mountain rugged pants which will have to remain my go-to winter trousers. All the best. @@trekitt
Quite useful, thank you!
Might I ask, what size is the Skogso jacket worn here?
Size large. Harry
Is there video showing that the wax even works? I’ve seen several videos showing waxed pants get sprayed with water. The water “resistance” doesn’t seem to last for more than a few sprays. Also saw a video just put on DWR on G1000 and got about as good results as the wax. I’m skeptical about this whole wax adds much to the pants concept. Where’s the proof?
So if I can't wax the stretchable areas, how can I make those parts more water- and wind resistant then??
Depends a little on the garment. If it is predominantly a stretch softshell fabric, then we'd recommend a wash-in cleaner and proofer from Nikwax or Grangers, but if it's smaller areas then a spray may be more appropriate.
@@trekitt thanks for the reply!
Ive damaged a zip using an iron, I only slightly but still something to be aware of..
If you wash your waxed garment in the washing machine, do you have to worry about the wax then getting on clothing in the next load?
It's not an issue we've experienced, but if you have concerns you can either hand-wash your waxed garments, or run a hot wash cycle without anything in the machine to clear any potential buildup.
I'm looking at purchasing either a Singi Heater G1000 hat, or a similar non G1000 hat such as the Nordic Heater. I at first thought that the G1000 might be the best way to go, but after hearing that the wax doesn't make the fabric "Waterproof", I'm wondering if I'm better off with Fjalraven's non-G1000 fabric (which I can spray with waterproofing spray). Any thoughts as to why one fabric might be better than the other?
You can use DWR spray on G1000 as well, and still enjoy the durability aspect of the material. I'd say DWR doesn't make clothing any more waterproof than wax though.
So I have waxed one of my jacket (forest green colour). Now I have a random dark spots, streaks that looks as if it became dirty, never washed look to it.
My pants are in black colour so you can't notice any spots like that. (I usually only wax my pants bottom 6~8" only to help prevent water from soaking and absorbed upward.
What to do? what to do? Try applying great heat? Wash it multiples times in a HOT water and hope to remove the wax and try again?
Lighter coloured G-1000 garments will be more likely to show some colour variation when waxed, some people will consider this a patina on their clothing and carry on, but if you would prefer a more uniform look to the waxing, it can be worth washing the jacket and starting again. Be sure to follow the care label for your specific item and don't use excessive heat when washing as it may cause damage. When reapplying the wax, be sure to use multiple light layers, applying heat in between passes, hopefully achieving a more uniform look.
how many times i should pass the wax bar over the zone that i want waterproof? a minimum reference
The wax will not make G-1000 waterproof, but will increase it's water resistance. For better overall weather resistance 3 layers of wax is a good start, heating in between each wax application to melt it into the fabric. You can add more wax, but this will also leave the fabric stiffer, less breathable and with a waxier surface finish. Good thing is though that you can wash the wax out if you don't like how it feels.
We would recommend starting with 3, try it out in wet weather to see how it performs and if those 3 layers don't offer enough protection you can top up with another one.
I have a Barbour wax jacket. Would the same wax and method for that work for the G-1000 material?
I don't think so. Would be better off using Barbour's own thornproof dressing.
What jacket are you wearing in this video? Thanks!
It's the Fjallraven Skogso Jacket. Harry
G1000 with Nikwax cotton is the best combo ;-) better than de fjallraven wax!
We'll have to give it a try and see what happens...
Can you use any wax or do you have to use that one in the video
I would stick to Fjallraven's own wax as it's been designed for this fabric.
Would the wax not ruin the iron?
Nope, just follow the instructions in this video and you'll be fine. Ben's Iron was safe.
What Jacket is it that you're wearing?
Fjallraven Skogso.
Why is this advert full of other adverts??
If you use a iron, doesn’t the wax destroy the iron?
It's fine on a low heat. Just make sure to wipe the remnants of wax off the iron before ironing other clothing.
@@trekittyou thought your mom would be proud of just showing ironing...
Let her see this response
Method 4. Running through an Arizona wildfire in July. Yehawww
😂
Can I apply this product to a cotton jacket?
Yes, it should work. It might be worth trying it on an inconspicuous area first just to be safe though. Harry
@@trekitt Thank you Harry, nice video by the way.
One of my favourite things to do is put in a large pot of coffee and wax my trousers and nickwax my waterproofs.. .
....not really I prefer to sleep.
The two aren't mutually exclusive 😂
Can I impregnate it in the sun when weather really hot?
You could, can't guarantee you'll have even melting of the Greenland Wax, but should work in theory. When we have another hot day you can give it a go and report back, we'd love to hear how it works.
Only after consent.
Lots of impregnation happens at the beach
Will that wax ruin my iron if I want to iron normal clothes?
Ben used his own iron for this video and it was perfectly usable after. Just follow the instructions in this video.