Saw a great tip for contrasting IM models today - really simple but great tip - just do the black in areas first before the yellow. Makes cleaning up mistakes of black on yellow a thing of the past.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I know it's so damn simple it really annoyed me I hadn't thought of it! It's changed how I paint lighter colour models - not just Marines.
That's what I've been doing with my Iyanden troops, I paint in nearly everything else first (including highlights and shades on the yellow parts) before applying the Imperial Fists Contrast.
Imperial Fist Contrast is some absolute black magic. Stuff makes yellow not just accessible, it makes it easy! I need to make mix me up some of that marine juice. Could be really nice for painting Horus Heresy models.
You have to be one of the hardest working content creators in the hobby sphere. Your tutorials are always clear, concise and easy to follow. You’re a master of your craft.
I like it very much, it also has this light matte and dark look that I like so much with the colour combination of the Imperial Fists. My Fists have always had a black Aquila with a white skull, which darkens the model nicely, also for battledamage/dirt.
I use marine juice on all my minies now. I saw you use it about 2 years ago and it really changed my painting! It is legitimately a real life cheat code! My marines are an inverted Brazen Claw, but it just works so well on both red and blue !
Your genuine passion for this hobby is inspiring and contagious as ever, and your simple, yet efficient paint guides are some of my favourites. I'm happy there is someone like you on this platform :D
Well done!!! Someone else just did a video showing a light pink wash before doing the yellow contrast and it came out fantastic. The pink turned into a light orange shadow effect that totally rocked.
I was thinking of starting an Eldar army and painting them as Iyanden since that's what I did as a kid, I think I might copy paste this recipe over to them! Great stuff!
Your videos are a constant source of joy and information. You are, without a shadow of a doubt, the most enjoyable painting channel on youtube. Great results in an approachable manner. Thanks man
I love this kind of mini painting content and you sir are the lord and master of it all :). I have to thank you for the introduction to 'Marine Juice'. I've applied variants of it to a few projects now and it has worked a treat on all of them. So thank you :D. Also a big thank you for making these videos, you continue to inspire us all in our hobby endeavors.
I tried this exact scheme last night and the SMJ ended up quite muddy. I.e. the Space Marine Juice gave a messy shade finish. I used Lahmian + old Reikland + old Nuln. Does AP Dark Tone leave a cleaner finish or is the Reikland you are using the new formulation Reikland?
Great tutorial. I have used the Marine Juice on sand colored tanks and it works really well on them too. It is not quite as dark as Agrax Earthshade or even Dark Tone and it flows better. Thanks for sharing this.
Just started warhammer and chose imperial fist, I must have painted most of my units from reference of a different tutorial each, there all a different shade of yellow 😂 I think I like yours the best 👍🏻
I've been doing some Eldar (or Aeldari I guess, if you're not old like me) Craftworld Iyanden using the Imperial Fist Yellow contrast, and I've found that if you do the pre-highlighting and pre-shading like you showed in some of your original Contrast videos, it'll give the same highlight and shade effect when you apply the IF yellow contrast paint. Obviously that's more just tinting the highlights and shades rather than an actual "contrast" effect, and it definitely won't win any painting contests, but it works pretty well for getting stuff done quickly.
Thank you for your detailed tutorial. Subscribed. I love how the IF spacemarine looks. You just gave me the courage to jump into painting my 1st model. I went out and bought all the paints you mentioned. Would you be able to do a tutorial for ultramarine and snagga ork? It would be very much appreciated.😊
Which wouldn't tint the whole panel with the slight warmth and richness of the shade. I'm aware of the panel liner products out there, but I've done it this way for a reason.
Wish wraithbone primer would get an updated formulation - never have good luck with it. Always comes out chalky while grey seer and white scar come out perfectly.
Myself and contrast paints cannot get along smoothly. Have tried loaded brush, unloaded brush, medium, and cant quite get the knack. Thiking maybe priming some sprue and experimenting is whata next.
I've been having the same issue. I just can't seem to get the hang of the application. It turns out for me that painting the traditional way actually gives me a better result in less time.
Love this. Do you mind if I ask why you prefer Dark tone, to using agrax in marine juice. At a push yesterday I had to use agrax and was curious what the difference was? Thank you.
in regards to tha marine juice, which dark tone are you refering to? As the drpper bottle one is different to the dunking tin that army painter also produces
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I’ve not used either but wanted to be sure before grabbing any. Running low on my original marine juice mix, sadly I have to buy a whole set of washes just to get dark tone. It’s not sold separately anywhere I can see
Great tutorial! I’d really like to make some marine juice, and this is maybe a silly question, but how should I store it? I’m very new to painting so I don’t have any empty paint pots, and they’d probably be too small. What should I use?
Something that'll seal tight is important. You could always order some bottles from Amazon, I still have a huge bag of 25ml dropper bottles for when I mix up highlight colours for army projects and such!
I'd love to see your camera setup for this mate. You film your painting so very well and I know it's a difficult thing to get right. Brilliant content always, really appreciate what you do.
I love that Marine Juice, I'm going to have to start mixing that up. I'm so disapointed with the new nuln oil and earthshade formulations, why are they drying so damn glossy now?! I digress, This is a sharp looking yellow job, top tier! Cheers! 🍻
You need to shake them more - shake them like they owe you money. Maybe even give them a stir with a toothpick. Your issue is that the pigment has settled out of the medium.
Well, no, not really - that's the point in mixing up the juice to begin with. You could try Agrax Earthshade or Army Painter Soft Tone, but even then they're going to be too strongly pigmented by themselves; thinning them with medium is half of what makes the shades flow smoothly and settle easily on to power armour. There isn't really a direct alternative that'll come out looking similar.
@SonicSledgehammerStudio alrighty. I was just curious. I have an army of unpainted Imperial Fists so I was just figuring out how to tackle the painting. Think I'll still go with your tutorial. Just got to find a place that sells army painter washes
If it's equal parts Lahmian Medium/Dark Tone/Reikland and you're still getting a weird mustard colour, try adding a little more medium, see if that helps. Otherwise, try not to let it pool as heavily in areas where it's going that colour? Without seeing what you're doing it's a little hard to troubleshoot, but you can't usually go wrong with 'more medium.'
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thanks. It isn’t a massive color shift in color but does make it slight tinted brown. Three other questions. I’m curious why you use lamian medium vs contrast medium with the new shades. Also, I don’t have any army painter products. If I used nuln oil would this still work or I thought you said it wouldn’t be dark enough. I have both old and new nuln oil pots. Finally you ever considered making a video on how to do blood angels? Your IF guide is very well done.
The black ink might work, but the Contrast has a much stronger pigmentation so I have no idea how it'd work in the ratios given. The short answer is if you want the same result, pick up some Dark Tone, but there's nothing stopping you from experimenting on some spares.
What do you think is the best way to paint a Land Raider/Rhino in the imperial fist scheme? I have no problem doing the infantry and characters, but I have no idea how to go about painting big vehicles.
This looks great...and a great Vid overall. I have a few queries if anyone can help. Im using Green Stuff Master Medium rather than Lahmium. 1- Do you need more of that in there(rather than 1/1/1 mix) as it came out messy first go (I added loads more Medium and it was much better). 2- Can this be used on a Dreadnoughts flat armour plates? I imagine the IF yellow goes on ok with care but the Marine Juice? Keep up the good work.
It's not really the brightness, but the colour. Check out some colour comparisons of Contrast paints over different primers; yellow over grey will look a little sickly, almost green in some areas. Wraithbone's little bit of warmth adds to the yellow nicely. If you can't get either, then white would be preferable.
I recently started painting imperial fists and Im having a lot of trouble with applying the marine juice to the model. It makes all of the areas super dark and brown, and streaks, partially because Im trying to be so thin with it since its been so dark. The creases in the armor look good, but the flat parts are the issue. I can send you pics but was wondering if you had any suggestions for what I could be doing wrong. Im applying it straight from the pot (24 ml L medium : 18 ml dark tone: 18 ml riekland fleshshade).
If you're mixing it to the same measurements as I've used, it shouldn't need more medium. There's a couple of possibilities. Either you're not applying enough on your brush at a time and parts of the wash are drying before you've completely covered a section of the Marine, or the flip side is that you're applying too much in one area and it's pooling and being left to settle. Try working in sections at a time, applying a decent amount to each leg, arm, and torso individually using a larger brush so that it doesn't have time to dry as you're working, and anywhere you get big globs of it settling as it's applied, wick some away with a brush before it dries.
The washes also end up with the name Quickshade on some bottles and media from Army Painter; unless specifically made mention of, I'm always using the little dropper bottles of acrylic washes. The big tins of dip are gonna be a lot more obvious if they're used.
Just buying some Reikland Fleshshade for making the marine juice and is there a difference between the new and old one, because they do specify on Elementgames at lest that it is new.
The eagle is maybe the only part of the model that i would have painted before assembly ...just to have my mind at ease that its painted properly and i havent missed a spot
The fact the Imperial Fist doesn't really streak or settle with any shading in weird places should mean that it works just fine on most vehicles, if you paint a section at a time and allow them to dry flat.
That actually looks pretty good! I wonder how Ungor Flesh would look vs. Wraithbone for the drybrush step... I'll forever wonder because I'm not buying anymore marines.
Another great tutorial and interesting to see that you have ditched Nuln for dark tone. The recent batches of marine juice that I have mixed with the new formulation have come out glossy, and I'm wondering if this is me or the new formulation interacting
The new stuff definitely has a glossier finish once it's dried. In this instance it's not such an issue since I went with a semi-gloss varnish anyway, but a matt varnish will get rid of the shine from the new shades no problem.
As chance would have it, I've actually tried that before. Targor Rageshade is quite purple, and the Bloodshade is way more red by comparison. The Bloodshade miiight work on this? But I like the juice for how universally useful it's been.
Hi, loved the video. I have a couple questions if you would be so kind to answer them. Recently I've painted a couple Sisters of Battle in the Sacred Rose paint scheme following your guide/video. I'm wondering if I should be using the Marine Juice recipe you've used here and if you think this varnish used in this video would look nice on the white armor? I'm trying to find a decent enough brush on varnish.
Just found another video that uses Vallejo Glaze Medium instead of Lahmium Medium which if you use the amazon prices its nearly half the price. 60ml of Vallejo Glaze is $10.50 total or $5.25/Fl Oz vs Lahmium medium's 24ml at $7.80 or $9.63/Fl Oz. Just throwing that out there for people who count costs closely.
The fact the Imperial Fist doesn't really streak or settle with any shading in weird places should mean that it works just fine on most vehicles, if you paint a section at a time and allow them to dry flat.
From the pot of Contrast? That's weird. I've never known Imperial Fist to go orange. Try shaking it up a little more before using it, or there's a chance you've just got a bad bottle?
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I think I’ll try a new pot. I use a vortex mixer so I don’t think shaking is the issue other than that maybe I’m just using too much
So the new Contrasts don't create contrast at all, that's funny! They seem more like Vallejo model air: they are thin, give smooth and easy one coat coverage. Now, that is good for sure, but the name is a bit misleading.
Most of the new ones do, but there's three or four that're really more just extremely pigmented glazes. I wish it were a little more obvious from the bottles which was which, though!
Man, do they look good with your method. Congrats! A little bit off-topic, I'd love to see your take on the Fire Hawks colour scheme. Those bastards have a beautiful scheme but its kind of wild
Very rarely. Even for reaching chest eagles and such like that, it's not normally necessary. Just hold the miniature at a different angle and you'll usually find a way to those hard to reach places. It's extremely uncommon that a detail will be so difficult to reach that you'll still *see* it.
Unfortunately, 'horrible' doesn't really give me much to help fix. 😅 If it's your very first miniature, there's no doubt going to be a few hiccups, but that's what practice is for!
@SonicSledgehammerStudio don't worry, I'm on to my next now. I've applied the imperial fist to my imperial fist a lot lighter and it's looking a lot better. I've just dine reds. Now on to my blacks!
@SonicSledgehammerStudio this 2nd one came out better. But I really struggle with the black. Yours looks so crisp and neat. But I can't seem to get the icon dine right. Wish I opted for blank shoulders now. Transfers look easier
Marine Juice (Lahmian Medium, Reikland Fleshshade, AP Dark Tone)... Hm. Wonder if you could just make a big pot of it by buying one of those larger dropper bottles and pouring the smaller bottles in. Think Lahmian is a bigger bottle, but, yeah. 14 or 18ml x 3, get one of those 60ml bottles... Hm...
Yeah, that's pretty much what I did for my initial run of Marine Juice. Just don't jam the whole bottle of Medium in there... although at that scale you could probably get away with it.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Does Marine Juice work on all colors? Is it a catch all? I got some Blood Ravens that I normally use Agrax on that are just about at the shading step...
Do you have an email address I can share my photos with you. The space marine juice seems to still be staining my model’s yellow. I have a photo of it.
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Saw a great tip for contrasting IM models today - really simple but great tip - just do the black in areas first before the yellow. Makes cleaning up mistakes of black on yellow a thing of the past.
You're kidding. That's bloody genius! I wish I'd thought of that.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I know it's so damn simple it really annoyed me I hadn't thought of it! It's changed how I paint lighter colour models - not just Marines.
That's what I've been doing with my Iyanden troops, I paint in nearly everything else first (including highlights and shades on the yellow parts) before applying the Imperial Fists Contrast.
Ohhhh shit hahahaha
I saw the same tip - it was here: ruclips.net/video/xEcNnCYHVFM/видео.html
Imperial Fist Contrast is some absolute black magic. Stuff makes yellow not just accessible, it makes it easy!
I need to make mix me up some of that marine juice. Could be really nice for painting Horus Heresy models.
You have to be one of the hardest working content creators in the hobby sphere. Your tutorials are always clear, concise and easy to follow. You’re a master of your craft.
I like it very much, it also has this light matte and dark look that I like so much with the colour combination of the Imperial Fists. My Fists have always had a black Aquila with a white skull, which darkens the model nicely, also for battledamage/dirt.
I use marine juice on all my minies now. I saw you use it about 2 years ago and it really changed my painting!
It is legitimately a real life cheat code!
My marines are an inverted Brazen Claw, but it just works so well on both red and blue !
Your genuine passion for this hobby is inspiring and contagious as ever, and your simple, yet efficient paint guides are some of my favourites. I'm happy there is someone like you on this platform :D
marine juice tasted great, would drink again 10/10
Well done!!! Someone else just did a video showing a light pink wash before doing the yellow contrast and it came out fantastic. The pink turned into a light orange shadow effect that totally rocked.
Always love tutorials like this. Yellow, black and white are always the hardest colors to paint
Thank you , Troy .
🐺
I was thinking of starting an Eldar army and painting them as Iyanden since that's what I did as a kid, I think I might copy paste this recipe over to them! Great stuff!
That shade wash is AMAZING!
Mate, you have been killing it lately. I love your recent Space Wolves and Imperial Fists painting tutorials. Keep them coming.
Your videos are a constant source of joy and information. You are, without a shadow of a doubt, the most enjoyable painting channel on youtube. Great results in an approachable manner.
Thanks man
I love this kind of mini painting content and you sir are the lord and master of it all :). I have to thank you for the introduction to 'Marine Juice'. I've applied variants of it to a few projects now and it has worked a treat on all of them. So thank you :D. Also a big thank you for making these videos, you continue to inspire us all in our hobby endeavors.
I tried this exact scheme last night and the SMJ ended up quite muddy. I.e. the Space Marine Juice gave a messy shade finish. I used Lahmian + old Reikland + old Nuln. Does AP Dark Tone leave a cleaner finish or is the Reikland you are using the new formulation Reikland?
Great tutorial. I have used the Marine Juice on sand colored tanks and it works really well on them too. It is not quite as dark as Agrax Earthshade or even Dark Tone and it flows better. Thanks for sharing this.
Go figure! I hadn't even considered applying this to sandy tanks and such - I'll have to give it a shot now. :D
Nice work, that's put me in the mood to give that a try ... cheers
Just started warhammer and chose imperial fist, I must have painted most of my units from reference of a different tutorial each, there all a different shade of yellow 😂 I think I like yours the best 👍🏻
Very nice, I'm starting a Lamenters army and I'll definitely have to try something like this for them!
Lamenters! You're a braver soul than I. 😂 Now *that's* a striking looking army on the table!
Ah, Lamenters. When you want an army that says "Yellow is not the hardest thing I'll have to do on this mini" :D
I so love Stormvermin fur on Black Leather :> Just makes it look nicer and rubbery. Thank you for the video :D Looking so good :)
Great video! I was gonna paint the marines in Leviathan as Imperial Fists (been playing them since I started 40k). Thanks for the tips!
Fists are always a stunning army on the table! Well worth the effort. :D
Perfect timing…Might use this for a lamenters marine
Another good one sonic, impressed by the new contrast paint
Cracking video. Yellow is such a tricky colour. Could easily use this process for my Orks 👍
I've been doing some Eldar (or Aeldari I guess, if you're not old like me) Craftworld Iyanden using the Imperial Fist Yellow contrast, and I've found that if you do the pre-highlighting and pre-shading like you showed in some of your original Contrast videos, it'll give the same highlight and shade effect when you apply the IF yellow contrast paint. Obviously that's more just tinting the highlights and shades rather than an actual "contrast" effect, and it definitely won't win any painting contests, but it works pretty well for getting stuff done quickly.
Excellent as always
Another well-painted Marine! Have you tried yellow Contrast paints over a pink primer?
Awesome video, ad always. Keep it up.
That looks magnificent!
another awesome guide
Wow, that marine juice really made him pop!
Thank you for your detailed tutorial. Subscribed. I love how the IF spacemarine looks. You just gave me the courage to jump into painting my 1st model. I went out and bought all the paints you mentioned.
Would you be able to do a tutorial for ultramarine and snagga ork? It would be very much appreciated.😊
There's a fair few Ultramarine guides on the channel already! ;D
For the crevice shading try Tamiya panel liner brown
Which wouldn't tint the whole panel with the slight warmth and richness of the shade. I'm aware of the panel liner products out there, but I've done it this way for a reason.
Wish wraithbone primer would get an updated formulation - never have good luck with it. Always comes out chalky while grey seer and white scar come out perfectly.
Very clean
Awesome video !
Cool as always. 👍
Myself and contrast paints cannot get along smoothly. Have tried loaded brush, unloaded brush, medium, and cant quite get the knack. Thiking maybe priming some sprue and experimenting is whata next.
I've been having the same issue. I just can't seem to get the hang of the application. It turns out for me that painting the traditional way actually gives me a better result in less time.
Imperial Fist contrast paint is magic, i already have a growing imperial fist force
Love this.
Do you mind if I ask why you prefer Dark tone, to using agrax in marine juice.
At a push yesterday I had to use agrax and was curious what the difference was? Thank you.
i will never be brave enough to do yellow marines, but this looks great! :D
Why not try one, if you don't like it you can always strip it down again. The new contrast paint is amazingly easy to use!
in regards to tha marine juice, which dark tone are you refering to? As the drpper bottle one is different to the dunking tin that army painter also produces
The acrylic wash in the dropper bottle. If you try using the tinned stuff to mix into water-based paints, you're going to have a bad time. 😅
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I’ve not used either but wanted to be sure before grabbing any. Running low on my original marine juice mix, sadly I have to buy a whole set of washes just to get dark tone. It’s not sold separately anywhere I can see
Great tutorial! I’d really like to make some marine juice, and this is maybe a silly question, but how should I store it? I’m very new to painting so I don’t have any empty paint pots, and they’d probably be too small. What should I use?
Something that'll seal tight is important. You could always order some bottles from Amazon, I still have a huge bag of 25ml dropper bottles for when I mix up highlight colours for army projects and such!
I'd love to see your camera setup for this mate. You film your painting so very well and I know it's a difficult thing to get right. Brilliant content always, really appreciate what you do.
I love that Marine Juice, I'm going to have to start mixing that up. I'm so disapointed with the new nuln oil and earthshade formulations, why are they drying so damn glossy now?!
I digress, This is a sharp looking yellow job, top tier! Cheers! 🍻
You need to shake them more - shake them like they owe you money. Maybe even give them a stir with a toothpick. Your issue is that the pigment has settled out of the medium.
Are there any alternatives to marine juice any single paint that might be able to sort of replicate the marine juice effect?
If someone doesnt want to go through the hassle of mixing Marine Juice is there an alternate option you would recommend
Well, no, not really - that's the point in mixing up the juice to begin with. You could try Agrax Earthshade or Army Painter Soft Tone, but even then they're going to be too strongly pigmented by themselves; thinning them with medium is half of what makes the shades flow smoothly and settle easily on to power armour. There isn't really a direct alternative that'll come out looking similar.
@SonicSledgehammerStudio alrighty. I was just curious. I have an army of unpainted Imperial Fists so I was just figuring out how to tackle the painting. Think I'll still go with your tutorial. Just got to find a place that sells army painter washes
So when I use the marine juice it tints the yellow to make it more mustard/vomit. Your mini still looks very vibrant. Am I missing a step?
If it's equal parts Lahmian Medium/Dark Tone/Reikland and you're still getting a weird mustard colour, try adding a little more medium, see if that helps. Otherwise, try not to let it pool as heavily in areas where it's going that colour? Without seeing what you're doing it's a little hard to troubleshoot, but you can't usually go wrong with 'more medium.'
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thanks. It isn’t a massive color shift in color but does make it slight tinted brown.
Three other questions. I’m curious why you use lamian medium vs contrast medium with the new shades.
Also, I don’t have any army painter products. If I used nuln oil would this still work or I thought you said it wouldn’t be dark enough. I have both old and new nuln oil pots.
Finally you ever considered making a video on how to do blood angels? Your IF guide is very well done.
Is that apothecary white on the Bolter scroll and fist shoulder emblem?
I'm out of dark tone...could I use a Black ink or thinned out black contrast paint?
The black ink might work, but the Contrast has a much stronger pigmentation so I have no idea how it'd work in the ratios given. The short answer is if you want the same result, pick up some Dark Tone, but there's nothing stopping you from experimenting on some spares.
yeah I might just have to since I have a huge pile of Fists to paint
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio
Can we use nuln oil for the juice instead of the Dark tone?
Am I correct in assuming that a smudgy finish means I should add more Lahmium medium?
What do you think is the best way to paint a Land Raider/Rhino in the imperial fist scheme? I have no problem doing the infantry and characters, but I have no idea how to go about painting big vehicles.
With those flat panels..I'd airbrush or rattlecan so they stay smooth
Can I still use nuln oil for the marine juice??
This looks great...and a great Vid overall. I have a few queries if anyone can help. Im using Green Stuff Master Medium rather than Lahmium. 1- Do you need more of that in there(rather than 1/1/1 mix) as it came out messy first go (I added loads more Medium and it was much better). 2- Can this be used on a Dreadnoughts flat armour plates? I imagine the IF yellow goes on ok with care but the Marine Juice? Keep up the good work.
Do you reckon grey seer primer is bright enough ? Or should it be wraithbone?
It's not really the brightness, but the colour. Check out some colour comparisons of Contrast paints over different primers; yellow over grey will look a little sickly, almost green in some areas. Wraithbone's little bit of warmth adds to the yellow nicely. If you can't get either, then white would be preferable.
Would it work the same way using Contrast Medium instead of lahmian ?
I recently started painting imperial fists and Im having a lot of trouble with applying the marine juice to the model. It makes all of the areas super dark and brown, and streaks, partially because Im trying to be so thin with it since its been so dark. The creases in the armor look good, but the flat parts are the issue. I can send you pics but was wondering if you had any suggestions for what I could be doing wrong. Im applying it straight from the pot (24 ml L medium : 18 ml dark tone: 18 ml riekland fleshshade).
Tried the marine juice. Ended up with pretty bad coffee staining. Half the models were ruined. Was that because I wasn't using enough medium?
If you're mixing it to the same measurements as I've used, it shouldn't need more medium. There's a couple of possibilities. Either you're not applying enough on your brush at a time and parts of the wash are drying before you've completely covered a section of the Marine, or the flip side is that you're applying too much in one area and it's pooling and being left to settle. Try working in sections at a time, applying a decent amount to each leg, arm, and torso individually using a larger brush so that it doesn't have time to dry as you're working, and anywhere you get big globs of it settling as it's applied, wick some away with a brush before it dries.
Cheers. I'll give it another go!
Would Strong Tone also be an option instead of Dark Tone. I ordered all the paints and such but got the wrong one 😂
is the dark tone the wash/ink? Not the quick shade?
The washes also end up with the name Quickshade on some bottles and media from Army Painter; unless specifically made mention of, I'm always using the little dropper bottles of acrylic washes. The big tins of dip are gonna be a lot more obvious if they're used.
What is the ratios you used on the juice?
Just buying some Reikland Fleshshade for making the marine juice and is there a difference between the new and old one, because they do specify on Elementgames at lest that it is new.
The eagle is maybe the only part of the model that i would have painted before assembly ...just to have my mind at ease that its painted properly and i havent missed a spot
Thank you for this awesome work. Can we use the new reikland fleshshade for the juice recipe or do you use a old one?
Yup. The new Reikland is the same colour and intensity as the old, more or less, so it'll make a minimal difference.
Have anyone tried with zenithal priming on this one? Was the result good?
The recipe for marine juice… is it 1:1:1 bottle or volume? (I mean that the dark tone comes in a slithly smaller bottle than the gw washes).
Bottles are fine: ruclips.net/video/D5yKZ1UAIEs/видео.htmlsi=dN0_tYmqeylQZOxd
Excellent. Could you use be same with a vehicle?
The fact the Imperial Fist doesn't really streak or settle with any shading in weird places should mean that it works just fine on most vehicles, if you paint a section at a time and allow them to dry flat.
Darcy Bono demonstrated it on a Dreadnought and it looked great.
@@HeadHunterSix any links?
@@davidparker2724 ruclips.net/video/xEcNnCYHVFM/видео.html
I was wondering, if you were to do a blood angel with this method, using Baal red of course, what drybrush colour would you suggest?
Ty for that ❤
That actually looks pretty good! I wonder how Ungor Flesh would look vs. Wraithbone for the drybrush step... I'll forever wonder because I'm not buying anymore marines.
Another great tutorial and interesting to see that you have ditched Nuln for dark tone. The recent batches of marine juice that I have mixed with the new formulation have come out glossy, and I'm wondering if this is me or the new formulation interacting
The new stuff definitely has a glossier finish once it's dried. In this instance it's not such an issue since I went with a semi-gloss varnish anyway, but a matt varnish will get rid of the shine from the new shades no problem.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio phew, glad it's not just me. Yes, a few coats of lahmian medium dulls it back
Looks like you could maybe use a thinned down Torgor Rageshade or Berserker Bloodshade to get the marine juice effect.
As chance would have it, I've actually tried that before. Targor Rageshade is quite purple, and the Bloodshade is way more red by comparison. The Bloodshade miiight work on this? But I like the juice for how universally useful it's been.
does this technique transfer well to vehicles? Would love to see a rundown on something like a dreadnaught
Hi, loved the video. I have a couple questions if you would be so kind to answer them. Recently I've painted a couple Sisters of Battle in the Sacred Rose paint scheme following your guide/video. I'm wondering if I should be using the Marine Juice recipe you've used here and if you think this varnish used in this video would look nice on the white armor? I'm trying to find a decent enough brush on varnish.
Time for my Lamenter nids
Just found another video that uses Vallejo Glaze Medium instead of Lahmium Medium which if you use the amazon prices its nearly half the price. 60ml of Vallejo Glaze is $10.50 total or $5.25/Fl Oz vs Lahmium medium's 24ml at $7.80 or $9.63/Fl Oz.
Just throwing that out there for people who count costs closely.
Can you do an Contrast Blood Angels video?
Not a beaky player but he looks spot on!
Basecoat with sun yellow spray from vallejo and then follow the same steps from this tutorial. Super fast
How well would this translate to a vehicle? Think about the new dreadnaught coming out!
The fact the Imperial Fist doesn't really streak or settle with any shading in weird places should mean that it works just fine on most vehicles, if you paint a section at a time and allow them to dry flat.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Thank you, I think I'm going to do a little testing first but I'm sure it'll turn out great!
Having a hard time with imperial fist, I get these darker orange streaks a lot
From the pot of Contrast? That's weird. I've never known Imperial Fist to go orange. Try shaking it up a little more before using it, or there's a chance you've just got a bad bottle?
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I think I’ll try a new pot. I use a vortex mixer so I don’t think shaking is the issue other than that maybe I’m just using too much
So the new Contrasts don't create contrast at all, that's funny! They seem more like Vallejo model air: they are thin, give smooth and easy one coat coverage. Now, that is good for sure, but the name is a bit misleading.
Most of the new ones do, but there's three or four that're really more just extremely pigmented glazes. I wish it were a little more obvious from the bottles which was which, though!
Man, do they look good with your method. Congrats!
A little bit off-topic, I'd love to see your take on the Fire Hawks colour scheme. Those bastards have a beautiful scheme but its kind of wild
great video,do you reckon i could do this with howling griffons as well?
and using white primer
Can you make a video of how you prime miniatures? Many of us would be happy for such a video
Otherwise: keep it up 👍👍👍
glad you painted up a Son of Dorn. will you do one of their brother chapters later?
Do you ever paint parts separately?
Very rarely. Even for reaching chest eagles and such like that, it's not normally necessary. Just hold the miniature at a different angle and you'll usually find a way to those hard to reach places. It's extremely uncommon that a detail will be so difficult to reach that you'll still *see* it.
Thanks for your reply. A friend of mine is of the philosophy that if you can't see it doesn't need to be painted. @@SonicSledgehammerStudio
Blood angels next!
Apparently we got two different imperial fist contrast paints...
Just painted my first ever model like this. Came out nothing like it 😭 it came so horribly
Unfortunately, 'horrible' doesn't really give me much to help fix. 😅 If it's your very first miniature, there's no doubt going to be a few hiccups, but that's what practice is for!
@SonicSledgehammerStudio don't worry, I'm on to my next now. I've applied the imperial fist to my imperial fist a lot lighter and it's looking a lot better. I've just dine reds. Now on to my blacks!
@SonicSledgehammerStudio this 2nd one came out better. But I really struggle with the black. Yours looks so crisp and neat. But I can't seem to get the icon dine right. Wish I opted for blank shoulders now. Transfers look easier
Marine Juice (Lahmian Medium, Reikland Fleshshade, AP Dark Tone)... Hm. Wonder if you could just make a big pot of it by buying one of those larger dropper bottles and pouring the smaller bottles in. Think Lahmian is a bigger bottle, but, yeah. 14 or 18ml x 3, get one of those 60ml bottles... Hm...
Yeah, that's pretty much what I did for my initial run of Marine Juice. Just don't jam the whole bottle of Medium in there... although at that scale you could probably get away with it.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Does Marine Juice work on all colors? Is it a catch all? I got some Blood Ravens that I normally use Agrax on that are just about at the shading step...
Do you have an email address I can share my photos with you. The space marine juice seems to still be staining my model’s yellow. I have a photo of it.
Every time I've tried Demonic Yellow, and its probably 3-4 times, it sprays terribly and has an awful finish.
Good thing this doesn't use Demonic Yellow, then! ✌
What models are these? Like from what box set, thank you