A friend of mine literally had the same problem and I told him to leave the radio without the battery for a couple of hours because I heard that the internal capacitors could discharge then. It worked for him. I don’t know if you tried this but I think it’s worth a try
@@FPVDiverBomber hmm, I've never dealt with anything other than my qx7 and it was a couple years back. If I recall, I watched and read a few posts, sometimes you find something good on old forum posts or such. I then tried every method and then started throwing in things like holding the bootloader buttons before plugging in or after, and also just trying to force an update.
You might not have fixed this transmitter, but I fixed my broken Taranis X-Lite Pro off of your tips here. Although I was able to gain access to DFU, normal mode did just like the transmitter in JB's video. Black screen, and a hizzing noice in the speaker. firmware update fixed access to nex level, screen showed Splashscreen, but never finished loading. After removing the battery and inserting it again, everything worked. Thanks for this trick with the battery JB !!
My radio would go into bootloader mode but wouldn't turn on. I pulled out the button cell battery and put it back in and it fixed it. Thanks for the video!
The 'after market' switch means this is an X9D Plus 2019 model. It does look very aftermarkety, I don't understand the thought processes that we're involved with putting it there. Replacing the main board you'd probably find the buttons just come away with the board, leaving the actuators in place, no soldering required. With all my screens I cut a replacement screen protector the correct size (if I can't buy a ready made one) out of some old iPad protectors I have, then peel, savour the moment, and replace with the new one, which is much more durable. Then I place the original film into my album of screen film protectors, together with the date, name of the equipment, and any other pertinent facts, like if it was raining, or I could smell someone baking a pie. Every now and then I take it out, close my eyes and give the pages a quiet flip. Sometimes I'll look through it and get lost in all those wonderful memories of film peeling moments. Sometimes I'll even have a box of tissues handy 😂
Hey I know this was posted last year but I found a video that seems to help. I thought I just bricked my X9D Plus 2019 while updating the firmware for ELRS and this fixed it and my radio was doing the exact same thing in your video. Search "How To Fix an FrSky Taranis That Won't Turn On (Bricked)" by Steve Tahoe. Gave myself a heart attack but happy now. Cheers.
For problems like this where the usual battery in/out type fixes don't work, it may be the STM32 microcontroller has corrupted data and doesn't know what to do with all the hardware around it. Just try flashing it with Companion via USB. Although nothing may come on, as long as windows can see it, then the STM32 can be powered and programmed directly bypassing all the bootloader stuff. I program a lot of STM32 devices via the ST-Link programmers, it works in similar way. The ST-Link programmer just powers the micro controller, none of the other associated circuitry, and programs the chip. When repowering, the STM32 now knows what to do with the all the other hardware.
Thank you for this. It helped me fix my taranis x9 lite S. I tried everything before, but my radio woukd only boot in bootloader mode. I tried various firmwares. Eeprom restore. Then I watched your video and I learned about that little battery inside. I thought, no way its going to make a difference, but I pulled the battery to check its voltage and it worked fine after putting it back on!
no visual check of the board? might be dust/dirt on the usb data lines and/or other places. a short burst of compressed air across spots which might have accumulated dirt might help and takes not much effort. spilled fluids might be visible as well.
Looks to me like someone screwed up hardware while custom painting this thing. Friend of mine had same problem, what I did - disassembled completely and assembled again. Problem was - dude installed custom strap holder that shorted power button... Reseat ribbons, remove custom switch ...
You are amazing! More wonderful tips. You have saved my bacon again. Truly you have videos for everything drone related and I am very grateful for that - as is my 14 year old son. Thank you again.
Hello Joshua! You can fix it when you solder a new microcontroler on the board. I have repair my taranis qx7 with a new ic. A little Bit tricky;) Regards, Klaus
Just had this exact issue. Was about to scrap the damn thing...it wouldn't power up normally (would just give tiny "pop" when hitting switch), wouldn't enter bootload, wasn't recognized by the PC in device manager, everything seen in the video. I tried everything in the video. After hours of screwing with it, I blindly tried to flash OpenTX from the Companion, even though Companion couldn't read anything from the TX. Weirdly, when flashing, it then could read the bootloader status, reflashed everything, and now it seems to work. So, try doing this if everything in the video doesn't work for you.
0:47 sounds like the cost of fixing it. Edit -- this reminds me of an issue I had a few years ago where the battery voltage wasn't enough. It didn't present itself as a voltage issue, but more of a hardware issue. There was some sort of odd issue with the firmware boot option that caused it to look similar to what you are seeing. I can't remember the details very well, but this seems very familiar.
My Taranis X9 Lite has the internal power cable inverted ! just turn the 18650 in the opposite direction, and that will power up ! Quality control almost ok :-)
Ah, I had the exact same problem yesterday. And, I solved it! Perhaps your friend unplugged the cable without selecting EXIT on the transmitter while connecting to your computer via USB in boot loader mode? If so, try connecting to your computer via USB again, then power on in boot loader mode way, and press the EXIT button, and repeat this some times.
3:30 the newer revision of the radiomaster T16S has a speaker and (i believe) the vibrator motor in the back cover! Nothing difficult to deal with, as it's just two wires to unplug, but there still is something there ;)
My radio master t16 won’t go into bootloader mode. Won’t turn on nothing. I was using those magnetic coupler cords you showed a few months ago . I posted this problem in fpv t16 group and one guy said turning it off while leaving a usb plugged in can make this happen. Any idea for a fix? So far I did everything you said accept open it and disconnect internal battery, should I do that next?
Thought I bricked a brand new FrSky XD+ a couple weeks ago by flashing the latest OpenTX right out of the box. Went round and round with yours and others OpenTX flashing tutorials and nothing worked. It went through the motions and showed flash but wouldn't turn on. Only turned on in bootloader mode, which didn't show the version I flashed but rather the one installed from factory. Think I eventually clicked flash from SD card via the buttons on the transmitter rather than the OpenTX app on the PC.
Are you still fiddling with it or did you give up on this one ? Do you recommend swapping out the coin cells just like you swap out the sd card on a new radio? Do you know the size battery for the tx16s? (Coin cell)
What bothers me is that the message about the descriptor failed was shown before you plugged the radio for a second and third time. Maybe it bugged in Windows and reassigned the radio to another com and you were looking at the old bugged one?
Also I know that the radio has similar behavior when powered just by usb, maybe try a new battery or power it via the power supply? Just remember to get the voltage right.
i Have had one of these radios for a few years and never even got it to talk to a receiver, it bricked like this playing lift off, can we just be honest here, the X9D was a disaster of a TX,
I have the problem that my X9D doesnt charge the frsky NiMh Battery with the original Power Supply. I didnt use the Taranis for a long time and the Battery was ~ 6.8V low. I have read that NiMH Batteries should be charged with just 1/10 C so with the FrSky Battery with 2000mAh its just 0.2A. This is how I charged it with my SkyRC D100. DPeak sensitivity was set to 4mV. I had to restart the charging process 2 times because I had the Safety timer set to 240min. But I monitored the mAh the charger was pumping into the battery after ~10h the voltage was at 8.79 but the total mAh where already over 2000mAh. Than I have found an article that stated that charging at very low amps of NiMH Batteries is bad because charging at that low amps the charger cant detect the DPeak voltage diffs when the battery is full. "With voltage changes of only about 5mV at full charge rates, the smaller changes arising for a slow charge are virtually impossible to detect." Thats when I panicked and removed the batterie from the charger because I didnt want to overcharge. Altough it seems a bit strange to me that the Taranis Batterie is 2000mAh because that would mean that each cell of the six is a 333.33 mAh cell. I never saw a NiMH Battery with this capacity. So maybe the charger wasnt doing anything wrong at this low charging current. I hope you can help me with that or even make a video on how to properly charge NiMH batteries? Is it fine to charge the Taranis 2000mAh NiMH Battrie (7.2v) with 0.2 amps or at which charge rate should I charge it? I cant find any information from FrSky on how to charge it with an external charger. BTW this is the mentioned article: www.electronics-notes.com/articles/electronic_components/battery-technology/nimh-nickel-metal-hydride-charging.php
That's not how series battery packs work! Each cell will be 2000mah @1.2v (nominal). When you put them in series, the voltage increases, and the capacity remains the same. Its when you put batteries in parallel that the capacity changes and the voltage stays the same. It will be perfectly fine/safe to change that battery at 1A (I. E. 0.5C), and is the lowest/preferred rate I change most AA nimh batteries. Anything lower is likely to give false readings.
@@pfeerick Thanks for your explanation 👍. I should have known that with the capacity. I have read another article that tests how far you can go until no dv/dt is measurable. It states that you should never go below 0.3c. I think the safest low current would be 700mA. Here is the article: lygte-info.dk/info/batteryChargingNiMH%20UK.html
Josh can you clear the smoke for me please. My TX is a frsky taranis x9d plus. I know the receiver has to be compatable and i have a list. However, for the flight controller and power distribution board, and fpv camera board. Does it mateer which i choose as far as compatability To the TX? My plan is to use a stack and 4 in 1 esc. So i need to know what works with my TX please. Can you point me to info or just tell me please. Im confused on what has to pair to my TX.
Looks like a "Pawel Spychalski Problem". I had to flash a bootloader on my IRangeX Multiprotocol module (STM32 Chip) with an Adapter (FTDI?) to get the USB port work. Unfortunately I don't know how, I followed the instructions I found somewhere and it worked 🤷🏼♀️🙊 Or perhaps the ribbon cable from the back to the front is faulty 🙄
Forgive my intrusive comments but I’m thinking of a satisfying way of getting my own back on my 10express. Basically I couldn’t bind the militant thingy to any thing so I tried to upload it with open Tx. After deceiving myself into thinking i was capable of what apparently is a simple process…. I’ve got a useless lump of plastic I want revenge on. I’ve spent days on trying to get it working again and all I get is a sd config message. It doesn’t even laugh at me. Part of me wants to take it skyward alight, and drop it from 400 ft on my DJI fpv onto the local church with a curse. Please help 😢 Kind regards James
I had the same thing happen last with with my X9D, same error. I had 2 problems. Problem #1, the battery was actually dead. I had to charge the battery, It would try to boot and spazz out. That fixed the booting. Problem #2 was the unknown descriptor: the problem was the USB Port! For some reason my teranis didnt like my USB 3.0 ports in the front of my PC. I changed to a different port and it worked.
Good tips. I did check the battery voltage. And I tried two different USB ports also. The USB 2.0 port is a good tip that I didn't think of, although I have had that hit me in the past. I just tried it but it didn't work there either :-/
Once the Jumper T16 connects to PC with USB, two windows pop up. First one, with only 2 folders and a second one with the SD contents. My friend deleted these two folders instead of deleting the SD Contents folder. Do you or anyone here know to get back these two folders. Thanks
Similar happened to my qx7s when I left it connected via usb while using my PC for other work and I corrupted the firmware somehow, tried loading it and all the tricks many times and one time it just took, can't remember what it was I happened to do correctly.
In "open world" you can try connect ST-Link to SWD port on the STM32 microprocessor and flash new bootloader and maybe opentx also... It is advanced workaround, but it works pretty well... Not only for transmitters, but also for other applications based on STM32 processors.... But FrSky uses custom encrypted bootloader, so no-one have the file :-(
The chip's gotta decrypt the bootloader though, and the key has to be on the device. If not main bank then at worst hidden somewhere in RTC or other peripheral memory. Still, what would be the point of having the bootloader assembly when JTAG dumping the entire flash and burning onto a fresh chip should work, right? Are they doing anything crazy like signing their bootloader against the MCU serial number?
There is no DRM protection or encryption on this chip's bootloader. The chips are totally open as far as I know. Hmm. Maybe for an ACCESS radio they might try such a thing. I'm not sure about that.
I'm not sure about that.... It's possible to use the MCU-ID to lock the firmware... But I don't have any FrSky radio to test it.... Maybe JB, if you have two radios with this same type and STlink interface, you can dump firmware from working radio and flash it to this one... Maybe it will work again... If there is no HW problem of course and no protection....
@@cheetahfpv6476 yes u are right.... The STM32F205/215 devices cover from 128 Kbytes to 1 MByte of Flash + it also can be in external Flash / EEPROM... I don't have access to this board so I cannot say exactly.... But I think the bootloader is in the internal Flash of STM32.... Also you can update the bootloader, so it's is not in the ROM (read only memory)...
1:00 oh my god yes peal the plastic!! Hahaha. I hear ya... It drives me nuts haha. I usually ask people first I guess "umm can I peal the plastic off your microwave?"... You shoulda phoned him straight away. A condition of fixing it lol
@@JoshuaBardwell Interesting, I ended up just having to let the transmitter discharge for a few days, and then it worked fine again. Thank you for the response!
The battery being dead won't change whether DFU works. When using DFU mode, the chip gets power from the USB cable. You don't need an external battery. But I did check the battery is not dead :-)
I peeled mine and wish I hadn’t. I went to wipe in with a SOFT cloth and it fogged it up with micro scratches. I’m going to have to apply a clear coat of something.
FrSky must be slacking on build quality. The lens on my X7S I bought used in 2018 has been super resilient and still looks brand new. I can't say the same for the ISDT charger I got that looked like a hockey rink after 6 months of sitting on a table at home.
You can polish out scratches in plastic with brasso/aluminum polish . It's a fine abrasive in fluid or paste, so apply with soft cloth, rub in/polish then buff off with soft cloth . mind you don't get it into crevices, so maybe mask off the cracks..
Always be sketchy about someone asking you to fix something that's missing half it's screws. It's a sure sign someone has poked around that shouldn't have.
Conclusion to the video. If you are going to get an Frsky radio, definitely don't get an ACCESS version. Get the ACCST version.
3 года назад+1
My ACCST X9D+ looks like it has the same fault...I replaced the power switch and that solved it for a few days. Currently it only powers on when I plug in the battery while the switch is in ON Position.
The plastic peeling moral dilemma was hysterical..... I can totally relate.
And I respect your restraint JB!
Take the plastic protector off the screen. That will fix it for sure! :)
NEVER PEEL THE PLASTIC! You will lose that wonderful "new radio smell" :-D
Something tells me the magic "new radio smell" was released a while ago on this unit.
hahahaha, knew that you would be here to set him straight Bruce! 👍
A friend of mine literally had the same problem and I told him to leave the radio without the battery for a couple of hours because I heard that the internal capacitors could discharge then. It worked for him.
I don’t know if you tried this but I think it’s worth a try
Hmm, I hope , I’ll try
Ok so imagine having to go through this as your first time radio into fpv. And no Joshua bardwell video to go see until now yeah thanks frsky.
FrSky actually makes killer radios in comparison to most similar priced radios on the market. I’ve actually never seen one die lol until now lol
@@zfpv7211 Completely agree, haven't seen one die before either.
I figured mine out, through perseverance. I went from bricked to fixed, but I tried a lot of things before I got it.
@@M.TTT. my t16 is bricked like this, what do I try next.?
@@FPVDiverBomber hmm, I've never dealt with anything other than my qx7 and it was a couple years back. If I recall, I watched and read a few posts, sometimes you find something good on old forum posts or such. I then tried every method and then started throwing in things like holding the bootloader buttons before plugging in or after, and also just trying to force an update.
My poor radio. Never even got to use it. But not worries. I use a RadioMaster now anyways and freaking like it a lot.
You might not have fixed this transmitter, but I fixed my broken Taranis X-Lite Pro off of your tips here.
Although I was able to gain access to DFU, normal mode did just like the transmitter in JB's video. Black screen, and a hizzing noice in the speaker.
firmware update fixed access to nex level, screen showed Splashscreen, but never finished loading. After removing the battery and inserting it again, everything worked.
Thanks for this trick with the battery JB !!
True life saver right here. You have revived my X9 lite with the coin cell thing. Huge thanks!!
My radio would go into bootloader mode but wouldn't turn on. I pulled out the button cell battery and put it back in and it fixed it. Thanks for the video!
Thanks JB - The X9D lives another day! didn't have to go the nuclear SD card out and it fired up.
The 'after market' switch means this is an X9D Plus 2019 model. It does look very aftermarkety, I don't understand the thought processes that we're involved with putting it there.
Replacing the main board you'd probably find the buttons just come away with the board, leaving the actuators in place, no soldering required.
With all my screens I cut a replacement screen protector the correct size (if I can't buy a ready made one) out of some old iPad protectors I have, then peel, savour the moment, and replace with the new one, which is much more durable. Then I place the original film into my album of screen film protectors, together with the date, name of the equipment, and any other pertinent facts, like if it was raining, or I could smell someone baking a pie. Every now and then I take it out, close my eyes and give the pages a quiet flip. Sometimes I'll look through it and get lost in all those wonderful memories of film peeling moments. Sometimes I'll even have a box of tissues handy 😂
Hey I know this was posted last year but I found a video that seems to help. I thought I just bricked my X9D Plus 2019 while updating the firmware for ELRS and this fixed it and my radio was doing the exact same thing in your video.
Search "How To Fix an FrSky Taranis That Won't Turn On (Bricked)" by Steve Tahoe.
Gave myself a heart attack but happy now.
Cheers.
THAT SUCKS. Your honesty is well appreciated. Glad to be a Patrion. More content please. How could you NOT peal the plastic! Seriously.
Your buddy may be bummed but mine is now on. You're a better man then me Gungadin. I would have peeled it in a New York Minute
For problems like this where the usual battery in/out type fixes don't work, it may be the STM32 microcontroller has corrupted data and doesn't know what to do with all the hardware around it. Just try flashing it with Companion via USB. Although nothing may come on, as long as windows can see it, then the STM32 can be powered and programmed directly bypassing all the bootloader stuff. I program a lot of STM32 devices via the ST-Link programmers, it works in similar way. The ST-Link programmer just powers the micro controller, none of the other associated circuitry, and programs the chip. When repowering, the STM32 now knows what to do with the all the other hardware.
I skipped the coin cell thing and went straight to the bootloader with the trim switches, worked! thank you
Thanks! My baby dropped the radio and I was unable to turn it on. The trick with the battery helped me!
Have heard of that problem being fixed by reseating the ribbon cables, esp the one going to the switch.
HOLY SHIT MY BRICK WAS FIXED BY THE TINY COIN BATTERY 😂😂😂 I also have not removed that plastic. JB saves my life AGAIN!
Life saver! After I have rmoved the coin cell, I was able to get in the boot loader which did not work before.
Thank you for this. It helped me fix my taranis x9 lite S. I tried everything before, but my radio woukd only boot in bootloader mode. I tried various firmwares. Eeprom restore. Then I watched your video and I learned about that little battery inside. I thought, no way its going to make a difference, but I pulled the battery to check its voltage and it worked fine after putting it back on!
Thank you very much josh, I removed the battery of X7 from the board, problem solved, I'm realy thankful, without you, fpv community is in trouble
If you take out the storage battery cell it is always a good idea to measure its voltage prior to reinstallation.
no visual check of the board? might be dust/dirt on the usb data lines and/or other places. a short burst of compressed air across spots which might have accumulated dirt might help and takes not much effort. spilled fluids might be visible as well.
6:17 LOL. I always have to search for my MiniUSB cable!
Thanks for the video.
Looks to me like someone screwed up hardware while custom painting this thing. Friend of mine had same problem, what I did - disassembled completely and assembled again. Problem was - dude installed custom strap holder that shorted power button... Reseat ribbons, remove custom switch ...
You are amazing! More wonderful tips. You have saved my bacon again. Truly you have videos for everything drone related and I am very grateful for that - as is my 14 year old son. Thank you again.
Taranis is one of the best radio in the market.
Hello Joshua! You can fix it when you solder a new microcontroler on the board. I have repair my taranis qx7 with a new ic. A little Bit tricky;) Regards, Klaus
I love how you have your Radiomaster TX16s prominently on display in the background! Go Radiomaster! :)
Just had this exact issue. Was about to scrap the damn thing...it wouldn't power up normally (would just give tiny "pop" when hitting switch), wouldn't enter bootload, wasn't recognized by the PC in device manager, everything seen in the video. I tried everything in the video. After hours of screwing with it, I blindly tried to flash OpenTX from the Companion, even though Companion couldn't read anything from the TX. Weirdly, when flashing, it then could read the bootloader status, reflashed everything, and now it seems to work. So, try doing this if everything in the video doesn't work for you.
0:47 sounds like the cost of fixing it. Edit -- this reminds me of an issue I had a few years ago where the battery voltage wasn't enough. It didn't present itself as a voltage issue, but more of a hardware issue. There was some sort of odd issue with the firmware boot option that caused it to look similar to what you are seeing. I can't remember the details very well, but this seems very familiar.
My Taranis X9 Lite has the internal power cable inverted ! just turn the 18650 in the opposite direction, and that will power up ! Quality control almost ok :-)
Oh, and that "aftermarket" momentary switch is actually stock on the 2019 X9D.
thank you, 5:59 solved my problem...
Ah, I had the exact same problem yesterday. And, I solved it!
Perhaps your friend unplugged the cable without selecting EXIT on the transmitter while connecting to your computer via USB in boot loader mode?
If so, try connecting to your computer via USB again, then power on in boot loader mode way, and press the EXIT button, and repeat this some times.
Good SD card advise JB. I gonna back mine up tomorrow.
I got the same sort of problem with an x9 lite would I use the same procces to try and fix it?
That X9D battery cover is a pain to remove.
Thanks! Solved my X9D issue.
@Joshua Bardwell, did you try the ImpulseRC dfu driver fixer? That has solved this same exact error for me once!🙃
Isn’t the coincell battery just for the RTC?
Your willpower is stronger than mine, i would have just peeled it haha
3:30 the newer revision of the radiomaster T16S has a speaker and (i believe) the vibrator motor in the back cover! Nothing difficult to deal with, as it's just two wires to unplug, but there still is something there ;)
My radio master t16 won’t go into bootloader mode. Won’t turn on nothing. I was using those magnetic coupler cords you showed a few months ago . I posted this problem in fpv t16 group and one guy said turning it off while leaving a usb plugged in can make this happen. Any idea for a fix? So far I did everything you said accept open it and disconnect internal battery, should I do that next?
Wow Joshua I think I learned more than something today. Lots of good tips
That is a fantastic color on that radio shell
Thought I bricked a brand new FrSky XD+ a couple weeks ago by flashing the latest OpenTX right out of the box. Went round and round with yours and others OpenTX flashing tutorials and nothing worked. It went through the motions and showed flash but wouldn't turn on. Only turned on in bootloader mode, which didn't show the version I flashed but rather the one installed from factory. Think I eventually clicked flash from SD card via the buttons on the transmitter rather than the OpenTX app on the PC.
Are you still fiddling with it or did you give up on this one ?
Do you recommend swapping out the coin cells just like you swap out the sd card on a new radio? Do you know the size battery for the tx16s? (Coin cell)
Still a nice try to fix it, a lot of good tips too. Thanks Joshua
What bothers me is that the message about the descriptor failed was shown before you plugged the radio for a second and third time.
Maybe it bugged in Windows and reassigned the radio to another com and you were looking at the old bugged one?
Also I know that the radio has similar behavior when powered just by usb, maybe try a new battery or power it via the power supply?
Just remember to get the voltage right.
Peel it , peel it ,.peel it ! 🤣
thank-you so much! Your the best. I've used so many of your videos
Thanks for showing us what you are doing in between the time when you are actually producing the content. LOL
i Have had one of these radios for a few years and never even got it to talk to a receiver, it bricked like this playing lift off, can we just be honest here, the X9D was a disaster of a TX,
Very useful information. Thanks Joshua. 🤓
I have the problem that my X9D doesnt charge the frsky NiMh Battery with the original Power Supply. I didnt use the Taranis for a long time and the Battery was ~ 6.8V low. I have read that NiMH Batteries should be charged with just 1/10 C so with the FrSky Battery with 2000mAh its just 0.2A. This is how I charged it with my SkyRC D100. DPeak sensitivity was set to 4mV. I had to restart the charging process 2 times because I had the Safety timer set to 240min. But I monitored the mAh the charger was pumping into the battery after ~10h the voltage was at 8.79 but the total mAh where already over 2000mAh. Than I have found an article that stated that charging at very low amps of NiMH Batteries is bad because charging at that low amps the charger cant detect the DPeak voltage diffs when the battery is full. "With voltage changes of only about 5mV at full charge rates, the smaller changes arising for a slow charge are virtually impossible to detect." Thats when I panicked and removed the batterie from the charger because I didnt want to overcharge. Altough it seems a bit strange to me that the Taranis Batterie is 2000mAh because that would mean that each cell of the six is a 333.33 mAh cell. I never saw a NiMH Battery with this capacity. So maybe the charger wasnt doing anything wrong at this low charging current. I hope you can help me with that or even make a video on how to properly charge NiMH batteries? Is it fine to charge the Taranis 2000mAh NiMH Battrie (7.2v) with 0.2 amps or at which charge rate should I charge it? I cant find any information from FrSky on how to charge it with an external charger. BTW this is the mentioned article: www.electronics-notes.com/articles/electronic_components/battery-technology/nimh-nickel-metal-hydride-charging.php
That's not how series battery packs work! Each cell will be 2000mah @1.2v (nominal). When you put them in series, the voltage increases, and the capacity remains the same. Its when you put batteries in parallel that the capacity changes and the voltage stays the same. It will be perfectly fine/safe to change that battery at 1A (I. E. 0.5C), and is the lowest/preferred rate I change most AA nimh batteries. Anything lower is likely to give false readings.
@@pfeerick Thanks for your explanation 👍. I should have known that with the capacity. I have read another article that tests how far you can go until no dv/dt is measurable. It states that you should never go below 0.3c. I think the safest low current would be 700mA. Here is the article:
lygte-info.dk/info/batteryChargingNiMH%20UK.html
Josh can you clear the smoke for me please. My TX is a frsky taranis x9d plus. I know the receiver has to be compatable and i have a list. However, for the flight controller and power distribution board, and fpv camera board. Does it mateer which i choose as far as compatability To the TX?
My plan is to use a stack and 4 in 1 esc. So i need to know what works with my TX please. Can you point me to info or just tell me please. Im confused on what has to pair to my TX.
Any modern FC can work with any FrSky RX. You're fine there. The ESC and PDB don't relate to the RX choice. I would get the FrSky RXSR.
Looks like a "Pawel Spychalski Problem". I had to flash a bootloader on my IRangeX Multiprotocol module (STM32 Chip) with an Adapter (FTDI?) to get the USB port work. Unfortunately I don't know how, I followed the instructions I found somewhere and it worked 🤷🏼♀️🙊
Or perhaps the ribbon cable from the back to the front is faulty 🙄
Forgive my intrusive comments but I’m thinking of a satisfying way of getting my own back on my 10express. Basically I couldn’t bind the militant thingy to any thing so I tried to upload it with open Tx.
After deceiving myself into thinking i was capable of what apparently is a simple process…. I’ve got a useless lump of plastic I want revenge on. I’ve spent days on trying to get it working again and all I get is a sd config message. It doesn’t even laugh at me.
Part of me wants to take it skyward alight, and drop it from 400 ft on my DJI fpv onto the local church with a curse.
Please help 😢
Kind regards James
You got my hopes up. I think I fried it by not disconnecting battery when reinstalling the ribbon cable. Mine wont even show anything in windows.
Change the battery while you can the case open?
Could burning a bootloader directly via an ISP (an arduino eg) to the mc be an option?
I’m surprised you didn’t at least take a meter to both batteries.
I did. I just didn't put it on camera. The DFU mode doesn't need an external battery anyway--it gets power from USB cable.
Plug the radio in the USB then run the impulse RC driver fixer to activate dfu mode
I had the same thing happen last with with my X9D, same error.
I had 2 problems.
Problem #1, the battery was actually dead. I had to charge the battery, It would try to boot and spazz out. That fixed the booting.
Problem #2 was the unknown descriptor: the problem was the USB Port! For some reason my teranis didnt like my USB 3.0 ports in the front of my PC. I changed to a different port and it worked.
Good tips. I did check the battery voltage. And I tried two different USB ports also. The USB 2.0 port is a good tip that I didn't think of, although I have had that hit me in the past. I just tried it but it didn't work there either :-/
Once the Jumper T16 connects to PC with USB, two windows pop up. First one, with only 2 folders and a second one with the SD contents. My friend deleted these two folders instead of deleting the SD Contents folder. Do you or anyone here know to get back these two folders. Thanks
Similar happened to my qx7s when I left it connected via usb while using my PC for other work and I corrupted the firmware somehow, tried loading it and all the tricks many times and one time it just took, can't remember what it was I happened to do correctly.
Did you try another battery?
Hey u try it thats why always stay to the end most of the time u find a solution lol great video thank u
Frsky 2019 use only 2s battery not same like old frsky can work with 3s battery
Try ImpulseRC driver fixer
Won't fix device descriptor request failed.
Oh, well... You tried, Joshua.
F
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
May need re flashing the boot loader using a arduino or cheap programmer.
So this person has plastic protector on the screen still but forgot to put all but 2 screws back in????
I've never been more angry
Thats my radio. And thats window tint. Didn't go on very well. Oh well..
What do I know, but I would have unplugged and reseated every cable and ribbon cable that I could find !
Now we replace the main board with a Jumper T16...
i have tx taranis x9d plus brand new
but after i turned on
come sound like zzzzooooommmmm from the tx
thanks brooowww
Would using Zadig to reinstall the USB Drivers work?
I don't think so. Device Descriptor Request Failed I think is a more fundamental issue than bad driver.
In "open world" you can try connect ST-Link to SWD port on the STM32 microprocessor and flash new bootloader and maybe opentx also... It is advanced workaround, but it works pretty well... Not only for transmitters, but also for other applications based on STM32 processors.... But FrSky uses custom encrypted bootloader, so no-one have the file :-(
The chip's gotta decrypt the bootloader though, and the key has to be on the device. If not main bank then at worst hidden somewhere in RTC or other peripheral memory. Still, what would be the point of having the bootloader assembly when JTAG dumping the entire flash and burning onto a fresh chip should work, right? Are they doing anything crazy like signing their bootloader against the MCU serial number?
There is no DRM protection or encryption on this chip's bootloader. The chips are totally open as far as I know. Hmm. Maybe for an ACCESS radio they might try such a thing. I'm not sure about that.
I dont know how stm32 works, but bootloaders are usually in a ROM to prevent it from being overwritten
I'm not sure about that.... It's possible to use the MCU-ID to lock the firmware... But I don't have any FrSky radio to test it.... Maybe JB, if you have two radios with this same type and STlink interface, you can dump firmware from working radio and flash it to this one... Maybe it will work again... If there is no HW problem of course and no protection....
@@cheetahfpv6476 yes u are right.... The STM32F205/215 devices cover from 128 Kbytes to 1 MByte of Flash + it also can be in external Flash / EEPROM... I don't have access to this board so I cannot say exactly.... But I think the bootloader is in the internal Flash of STM32.... Also you can update the bootloader, so it's is not in the ROM (read only memory)...
Been there, saved by Bardwell!
1:00 oh my god yes peal the plastic!! Hahaha. I hear ya... It drives me nuts haha. I usually ask people first I guess "umm can I peal the plastic off your microwave?"... You shoulda phoned him straight away. A condition of fixing it lol
NO! Usually it means bad USB cable :)
What do I do if I can get into bootloader mode, but nothing else?
Re flash it using bootloader mode.
@@JoshuaBardwell Interesting, I ended up just having to let the transmitter discharge for a few days, and then it worked fine again. Thank you for the response!
Спасибо!
I have the opposite problem, my X9D wont turn off.
same here , stamped on it in the end and bought a new one
I like mini usb better. It doesn't seem to break like the micro usb ones do.
What size is the watch battery inside? I need to replace mine it says low bat when I turn mine on.
Its a cr1220
@@qugzque9110 sweet thank you so much I really appreciate!!!!
The sd card is crap. Mine was DOA. Tossed it, put in a quality one, never looked back.
Just had to ask. Is the battery dead??
The battery being dead won't change whether DFU works. When using DFU mode, the chip gets power from the USB cable. You don't need an external battery. But I did check the battery is not dead :-)
I peeled mine and wish I hadn’t. I went to wipe in with a SOFT cloth and it fogged it up with micro scratches. I’m going to have to apply a clear coat of something.
FrSky must be slacking on build quality. The lens on my X7S I bought used in 2018 has been super resilient and still looks brand new. I can't say the same for the ISDT charger I got that looked like a hockey rink after 6 months of sitting on a table at home.
You can polish out scratches in plastic with brasso/aluminum polish . It's a fine abrasive in fluid or paste, so apply with soft cloth, rub in/polish then buff off with soft cloth . mind you don't get it into crevices, so maybe mask off the cracks..
@@thomasnorton8390 Awesome! Thanks man!
Saving this, just in case
The problem is the radio color. Paint it black or grey and it will work again 😆
🤣🤣🤣
Hahahaha, that plastic thing is SOOOOOO true.....
Please can somebody peel the plastic!
Always be sketchy about someone asking you to fix something that's missing half it's screws. It's a sure sign someone has poked around that shouldn't have.
Thx
Conclusion to the video.
If you are going to get an Frsky radio, definitely don't get an ACCESS version. Get the ACCST version.
My ACCST X9D+ looks like it has the same fault...I replaced the power switch and that solved it for a few days. Currently it only powers on when I plug in the battery while the switch is in ON Position.
dont know how many times ive flashed betaflight onto my radio and turned it into a vibrator
do you need any help?