This video is 8 years old, and I’m cracking up at your backwards cap and soul patch! I’m used to current day you-you’ve grown up nicely! And thanks for the nice board design! Going with tung oil thanks to your latest cutting board finish video!
Mark S., you ARE THE BOMB! I've followed you for years and I've taken classes from William Ng just to increase my chops! As a woodshop teacher, we've made several types of boards as projects, including end-grain boards, the kids were great and their parents were very impressed! Kudos on your magnetic/informal teaching style, it's always a pleasure! I ALWAYS learn something new when I watch your videos. Congrats, Mike
Man. Just when I thought I’ve seen most of your videos a random one pops up and it just happens to be the one I’m interested at the time. People are reenacting your old videos and going viral 🤦🏽♂️ your videos are just awesome. You go into detail on the important things. Keep it short and simple yet so informative at the same time. Lol
I have finally got to a point where I felt ready to make these. I just watched this video about 6 more times after the previous 20 times over the last few months. Am I the only one that was going nuts trying to figure how to get the boards to create the skinny strips down the middle as opposed to the outside. I finally talked myself into believing it’s two different layouts on the first process. Maybe that was the intention. Thanks for these Mark. If you only knew the inspiration you provide to us hobbyists.
I watched your video today because I am serious about getting started in making my own cutting boards. Boy am I impressed. Your video was awesome. It was very thorough and explained the entire process completely. You make the viewer very comfortable and knowledgeable at the same time. I even enjoyed your humor. Thank you very much for making this video. I can't wait to get started making my own using your valued instruction.
Great video! Easy and precise with good info! The one thing missing is telling folks how you arranged the grain in the same direction to avoid cracking and that you used the wood that you did because they are similar in the way they expand and contract.
Thanks Mark, really appreciate this video as I am just making some cutting boards. Seeing how you got the end grain and your explanation was brilliant. Keep up the good work. 👍🏾👍🏾
Amazing tutorial, thankyou. As a suggestion, that stock jazz piano sample is the go-to for so many videos and it immediately makes me associate your video (which is special) with all of the thousands of other videos with the same sample. If you need jazz piano samples I'm happy to help free of charge!
Great Video. one thing to keep in mind, when melting beeswax, use a double boiler. The flash point of beeswax is around 400 degrees Fahrenheit (200 Celsius). If you get careless, you have a fire to deal with. I enjoy the videos, keep up the good work. Now I have to get to work making my wife one of these.
If you dont have a planer you can use a drumsander which I would recommend as the planer can cause chip out and that would mean that you would have to try and salvage or start all over. There are videos showing how to make a drumsander if you cant buy one, I have been make jigs for the table saw and bandsaw, that is a great way to learn too. All the best to you I hope you come right. Btw using a sander can cause your pieces to be uneven, as a wood worker I know how disappointing that can be
10:20 rolled around and I thought I was hearing a Food Wishes video starting in another tab... LOL (GREAT job on this tutorial --- can't wait to try it out... :) )
Thanks for a nice video to explain the process. I was looking to purchase a can of Salad Bowl Varnish, and found this WARNING on the can,, "Not for actively used butcher block counter tops that are used for chopping and cutting" FYI, not for cutting or butcher block boards. Back to BEE Wax & Food Grade Mineral oil, keep the videos coming, you have a great presentation.
This is a great educational video for me. My question is your recommendation on a cross cutting blade when cutting across the end grain pieces. I had horrible chip-out on the top and bottom. As my name implies, I'm a novice at this and can't thank you enough for all your videos and tips.
+Wood Rookie If cost is a concern to you (it definitely is to me), I have found the Freud D1050X to be a very adequate all-purpose blade. It has worked well for plywood, cross-cutting, and ripping. At around $33 on Amazon, it doesn't break the bank either. If you are looking for a dedicated, expensive cross-cutting blade, I'm afraid I don't have much advice in that area.
Awesome video, thank you. Comedic elements need some polishing by I will watch every video you make. A cutting board like this could last 100 years if it's cared for.
Love your videos. I have a question about grain direction. Does it matter when making an end grain board? Opposing grain is fine? Basically is there any thing I need to worry about grain direction wise when making an End grain board? I’m only asking because I’ve gotten through the first panel glue up and cross cut all my pieces and came up with this amazing design in my eyes, I just don’t know the rules about grain direction in an in grain board. Thanks in advance Mark
Really good video Mark - Thanks. I would also recommend routing a channel about a quarter inch in from the edge of the board all round using a 6.3 mm half round cutter to collect meat juices.
Mark, Love all your videos. Made this cutting board and the pattern turns out different than yours. I have the boards the way you say but different pattern.
You can also use vegetable oil on all your wood tools in the kitchen. You use it the same as the mineral oil. I don't know about adding wax to it, I have never heard of that process. I learned this in culinary school.
I noticed that the pattern on the finished board is different than at the start of the project. I just finished making two of them and was trying to figure out why my pattern was different.
Two questions: 1) Top, bottom, and all sides for the salad bowl finish? 2) The finish that I picked up at my local Lowe's stated not to thin it. Will this be an issue or should I go ahead and thin it anyway? Beautiful boards and I have enjoyed making my 3 so far. Just gotta get the final sanding, routing and finish in place so I can finally deliver my mother's day presents. Just a tad bit behind schedule.
Many finishes say not to thin, my understanding is that this is an environmental issue. Thinners are bad for the environment, thus if you do not thin the environment is happier. Thus the government doesn't want us to thin, and so finish makers put that on their cans to make the government happy.
Hi Mark - I haave a couple questions for you. I am in the process of making this based on the directions that you have provided. However, mine are not coming out dim. like yours. When I cut the boards into 11 strips 1.250" like you suggest I only get about a 9 in x 12 in board. So I certainly am doing some thing incorrectly. Looking for some help as these are very cool boards.
Marc, I'm new to wood working and bought all the lumber. I'm looking forward to trying and make this cutting board. My question is: Once I the cool pattern, could i just clue 5 boards and 5 boards and make two cutting boards? Again, I'm new to wood working
do the size of the stripes matter? I want to build some end grain cutting board from scrap maple stripes . I have several width. For the first glue-up, do I have to resaw the stripes all the same width or would it be OK to glue together a mix of 1'' width, 2" width, 1.5" width, 3'' width? Until I reach my desired total width.
Hi Mark, Good video thanks. A question about your finish. I don't have any wiping varnish, but understand it is basically 50%varnish and 50% mineral spirits. So, for your cutting board finish, would mixing varnish on mineral spirt 1 to 1 get the same result? Regards, Sam
I have watched your video and read your article regarding finishing an end grain cutting board. I felt the technique of using the salad bowl finish would be the best bet so I tried it on my first cutting board. It seems to have sealed well but I was a little confused as too how long the odor from the finish would last. It's been 3 months and it still has the odor. I haven't tried to wash it to see if that would help with the odor. Today I tried the other method of using mineral oil and paraffin wax and I'm not too fond of this technique. I think I would rather use my first method but I don't care for the lingering odor. Do you how long it would usually take for the odor to disappear? Thanks
This video was made nine years ago and I think that Mark now realizes that the best cutting boards, according to professional chefs (who work eight hours a day), use plastic cutting boards. Both ASAHI and HASEGAWA make plastic cutting boards. They are not rubber. They are sometimes called "synthetic rubber" but they are plastic. They might respond to a knife blade like rubber would, but they are plastic. No commercial company makes rubber cutting boards. If you know of someone who makes rubber cutting boards, please respond.
Hi Mark, after you cut them into strips and started arranging with the end grain facing up, it looked like it was a different board altogether. The thin strips were in the middle, whereas after initial glue up the thin strips were close to the outside. Maybe I’m looking at it around? Regardless, this is a beautiful board!
For the sake of time savings (maybe sanity too), is it ok/possible to buy an unfinished, pre-fabbed, long grain butcher block counter top and just rip width wise and turn them 90^ and re-glue? Thanks and great video and series.
Note the difference in patterns in the two boards when they are being finished. Take care in how you arrange the boards as explained at 3:10 to achieve your desired block pattern. The pattern shown at 3:10 will yield the mineral oil finished board. While the pattern used at 6:35 will yield the varnish-finished board.
I am a beginner woodworking and absolutely loved your video. Question....You said you are using 8/4 lumber (which my reading says that is 2") but your first piece is 2 1/4"???? I purchased cutting boards from woodworking source and they are 1 3/4" so am wondering what to do.
Hi Marc I´m a huge fan of your´s i have a few questions about this cutting board, i hope you can help me (i already did this project) 1.- in this video you present 2 different designs of your boards right? after the second cut the pattern its fifferent from the first i think 2.- in the video you said that the measures will be approximately 18" L x 14" W x 1 1/4" T, but with 11 strips (thats the number you said we need after the second cut) my board have only 14" L i supose that its a mistake in the number of strips, maybe with 13 or 14 strips i will have my 18" L right? PLEASE tell me if i´m right or what was my mistake because this freaking me out Thanks and congratulations, your project, videos and channel are great
+Victor Porthos I noticed that too after putting it together. It seems that in the first part of the video, if the boards were matched up the way he mentioned, you wouldn't end up with the 3/4 inch pieces running next to each other along the middle for that thin checker pattern. I was confused when I looked at the final product I made and came back to watch a couple times to confirm.
I may be really stupid here but last I knew 8/4 is 2 inches and I can't afford the board stretcher to get 2¼ from the 8/4 boards. Little help please. I'm way late to this but am looking forward to making this board Any help appreciated
You appear to have switched patterns mid stream. At the 6:19 mark you clearly show the pattern from left to right as 2 1/4 Purple heart, 3/4 Maple, 1 3/4 Purple Heart, 1 1/4 Maple, 1 1/4 Purple Heart, 1 3/4 Maple, 3/4 Purple Heart, 2 1/4 Maple. Then at the 6:33 mark in the video suddenly the 2 1/4 Purple Heart is followed by 1 3/4 Maple. This does not agree with the original glue up as shown in the video at the 3:24 mark. I was trying to build this cutting board but could not achieve the finished pattern you show in the video. While looking for my mistake I discovered the inconsistency was in the video... I had done the initial glue up correctly so something changed in the video. Truth be known, I kind of like the pattern I get when following your initial glue up order rather than what appears in the video when sawing the 11 1 1/4 strips. Am I missing something. Oh... not to pile on... but when you turned each strip to expose the end grains for glue up, you didn't turn the last strip. Sorry if I'm knit picking.
Hey Marc, is crosscutting the board @ 6:00 safe? I was considering making myself a sled once I own a table saw. Is saving a little money and cutting it like you did advised? Thank you.
Quick question - Are you cross cutting the board with a fence around 6:20? It seems stable enough to do, but I was always under the impression that one should never cross cut wood against the fence.
Never cut with both miter AND fence. Since most crosscuts are done with the miter, it is very common to say not to crosscut with the fence. The issue is, you never want to cross the blade with your body, so when using the miter the part against the fence is unattended. Unattended, it has a higher likelihood of shifting into the blade, getting pinched between blade and fence, and kicking back. Get around this by using a stopblock before the blade area, leaving plenty of room between blade and fence so if it does shift some, it just bumps a bit and no real kickback. Now, you CAN call him on crossing the blade with his body, which is never recommended (due to the potential for kickback), but it is not the crosscut on the fence that is the issue. But I think we all end up breaking this rule, sooner or later. Familiarity and contemppt and all... LOL Also, his splitter does have anti-kickback thing-a-ma-jigs, which help.
Can you do a video describing the relationship between the thickness of the original board, the width of each cut, how you are rotating the pieces to glue, and the dimensions of the resulting board? I am confused, especially because I don't have the ability to change the thickness of my 8/4 boards, only flatten it.
You can change the thickness of 8/4 boards with sequencial runs thru the table saw, small cuts, flipping board end for end after each pass. If this does not split the board use hand saw to finish.
Is the volume of the wax (for the 25%bv) calculated before or after melting? I don't know how much the volume changes, but volume tends to change when you melt things.
Ive made 10 cutting boards in the last few weeks. half long grain and half end grain. My girlfriend cut steaks on her end grain and i just noticed, one it stained from the blood and second, it seems there are "gaps" forming. I use titebond III glue and clamped with pole clamps. WHY would this happen ?
This video is 8 years old, and I’m cracking up at your backwards cap and soul patch! I’m used to current day you-you’ve grown up nicely!
And thanks for the nice board design! Going with tung oil thanks to your latest cutting board finish video!
Mark S., you ARE THE BOMB! I've followed you for years and I've taken classes from William Ng just to increase my chops! As a woodshop teacher, we've made several types of boards as projects, including end-grain boards, the kids were great and their parents were very impressed! Kudos on your magnetic/informal teaching style, it's always a pleasure! I ALWAYS learn something new when I watch your videos. Congrats, Mike
Man. Just when I thought I’ve seen most of your videos a random one pops up and it just happens to be the one I’m interested at the time. People are reenacting your old videos and going viral 🤦🏽♂️ your videos are just awesome. You go into detail on the important things. Keep it short and simple yet so informative at the same time. Lol
I have finally got to a point where I felt ready to make these. I just watched this video about 6 more times after the previous 20 times over the last few months. Am I the only one that was going nuts trying to figure how to get the boards to create the skinny strips down the middle as opposed to the outside. I finally talked myself into believing it’s two different layouts on the first process. Maybe that was the intention. Thanks for these Mark. If you only knew the inspiration you provide to us hobbyists.
I watched your video today because I am serious about getting started in making my own cutting boards. Boy am I impressed. Your video was awesome. It was very thorough and explained the entire process completely. You make the viewer very comfortable and knowledgeable at the same time. I even enjoyed your humor. Thank you very much for making this video. I can't wait to get started making my own using your valued instruction.
ditto
Best video here for making cutting boards. Thank you!
7 years old 😁 funny to see the development you went through! Still great content to watch 😊👍🏼
An oldie but goodie!
Great video! Easy and precise with good info! The one thing missing is telling folks how you arranged the grain in the same direction to avoid cracking and that you used the wood that you did because they are similar in the way they expand and contract.
Thanks Mark, really appreciate this video as I am just making some cutting boards. Seeing how you got the end grain and your explanation was brilliant. Keep up the good work. 👍🏾👍🏾
My wood shop teacher attached this video to watch while we’re on break for corona virus, thanks Boelhauf
Boelhauf sent this to me too, are you wood 1 or wood 2 and above
Wood 16. Plebe.
Excellent video. Showing all the steps in detail and offering alternatives is always great. Thank you for all the information on waxing and safety.
Amazing tutorial, thankyou. As a suggestion, that stock jazz piano sample is the go-to for so many videos and it immediately makes me associate your video (which is special) with all of the thousands of other videos with the same sample. If you need jazz piano samples I'm happy to help free of charge!
Great Video. one thing to keep in mind, when melting beeswax, use a double boiler. The flash point of beeswax is around 400 degrees Fahrenheit (200 Celsius). If you get careless, you have a fire to deal with. I enjoy the videos, keep up the good work. Now I have to get to work making my wife one of these.
Wow some water has gone under the bridge since you made this one cheers
Great video I must have watched it 10 times over the years.
Thanks Mark.
Roland
Good job on the cutting board, something I use for a food grade finish is pure tung oil mixed with citrus solvent at equal parts.
What a beautiful job!
Glad to see someone make one without a planer. I wish I had a planer, but most of us have to sand.
If you dont have a planer you can use a drumsander which I would recommend as the planer can cause chip out and that would mean that you would have to try and salvage or start all over. There are videos showing how to make a drumsander if you cant buy one, I have been make jigs for the table saw and bandsaw, that is a great way to learn too. All the best to you I hope you come right. Btw using a sander can cause your pieces to be uneven, as a wood worker I know how disappointing that can be
Your a great teacher! Thank yoi
10:20 rolled around and I thought I was hearing a Food Wishes video starting in another tab... LOL
(GREAT job on this tutorial --- can't wait to try it out... :) )
I thought the same thing!
AHA, it was on the tip of my tongue and couldn't remember where I heard it that music from. lol
Great video. Thanks.
Thanks for a nice video to explain the process. I was looking to purchase a can of Salad Bowl Varnish, and found this WARNING on the can,, "Not for actively used butcher block counter tops that are used for chopping and cutting" FYI, not for cutting or butcher block boards. Back to BEE Wax & Food Grade Mineral oil, keep the videos coming, you have a great presentation.
Great video man; informative, helpful, and entertaining.
HI Mark,
Great video. Love the detailed explanation of each step. Beautiful board
Enjoyed this 👌 👍
Great video. To the point, detailed, great info.
Beautiful board I am gonna give this one a try great video by the way
Shellac is made from the shell of the lac beetle. M&M is one of the biggest users of this finish in the food industry.
Excellent!
Your videos are AWESOME
Thanks for the inspiration and clear explanation!
awesome tips and thanks for the videos!
This is a great educational video for me. My question is your recommendation on a cross cutting blade when cutting across the end grain pieces. I had horrible chip-out on the top and bottom. As my name implies, I'm a novice at this and can't thank you enough for all your videos and tips.
+Wood Rookie If cost is a concern to you (it definitely is to me), I have found the Freud D1050X to be a very adequate all-purpose blade. It has worked well for plywood, cross-cutting, and ripping. At around $33 on Amazon, it doesn't break the bank either. If you are looking for a dedicated, expensive cross-cutting blade, I'm afraid I don't have much advice in that area.
Food wishes anyone????
Great video, going to make one this weekend.
Awesome video, thank you. Comedic elements need some polishing by I will watch every video you make. A cutting board like this could last 100 years if it's cared for.
I just finished a maple end grain cutting board last week
Great Video !
Going to have to try it out..
Love your videos. I have a question about grain direction. Does it matter when making an end grain board? Opposing grain is fine? Basically is there any thing I need to worry about grain direction wise when making an End grain board? I’m only asking because I’ve gotten through the first panel glue up and cross cut all my pieces and came up with this amazing design in my eyes, I just don’t know the rules about grain direction in an in grain board. Thanks in advance Mark
Really good video Mark - Thanks. I would also recommend routing a channel about a quarter inch in from the edge of the board all round using a 6.3 mm half round cutter to collect meat juices.
Mark, Love all your videos. Made this cutting board and the pattern turns out different than yours. I have the boards the way you say but different pattern.
Thank you! Great video
This video has held up great over time. Much better than Marc has!! HEY OOOOHH just kidding!
You can also use vegetable oil on all your wood tools in the kitchen. You use it the same as the mineral oil. I don't know about adding wax to it, I have never heard of that process. I learned this in culinary school.
I love heating up mineral oil with beeswax... It gives a great sealcoating
Yay, new video.
not a new video... repost
Lindo trabalho, muito lindo mesmo. Parabéns
Phenomenal ! Great lesson great tips and info keep it up!!
I noticed that the pattern on the finished board is different than at the start of the project. I just finished making two of them and was trying to figure out why my pattern was different.
Great stuff Mark.
Derek
love this video might do it in woodshop- class
Memories
Thank you good upload very helpful.
Marc, at 13:11 you thin down the food safe varnish with mineral spirits. Is it still a food safe finish then? Thanks.
Nice video, very informative and made me laugh when you were washing it. definitely worth watching
The one advantage of a plastic cutting board is that you can wash it in the dishwasher.
Two questions:
1) Top, bottom, and all sides for the salad bowl finish?
2) The finish that I picked up at my local Lowe's stated not to thin it. Will this be an issue or should I go ahead and thin it anyway?
Beautiful boards and I have enjoyed making my 3 so far. Just gotta get the final sanding, routing and finish in place so I can finally deliver my mother's day presents. Just a tad bit behind schedule.
Many finishes say not to thin, my understanding is that this is an environmental issue. Thinners are bad for the environment, thus if you do not thin the environment is happier. Thus the government doesn't want us to thin, and so finish makers put that on their cans to make the government happy.
Wow 5 years ago already be looks old 😕😲 great video even in 2019
It was originally released in 2007
@@woodwhisperer ah ok makes more sense!
Great video! Any thoughts on mahogany for a cutting board?
Great video I just wish someone would give advice on how to charge for such cutting boards thank you
Great video! Thank you. I heard that purple heart can be toxic and not sutible for cutting boards.. What do you think?
Hi Mark - I haave a couple questions for you. I am in the process of making this based on the directions that you have provided. However, mine are not coming out dim. like yours. When I cut the boards into 11 strips 1.250" like you suggest I only get about a 9 in x 12 in board. So I certainly am doing some thing incorrectly. Looking for some help as these are very cool boards.
Marc, I'm new to wood working and bought all the lumber. I'm looking forward to trying and make this cutting board. My question is: Once I the cool pattern, could i just clue 5 boards and 5 boards and make two cutting boards? Again, I'm new to wood working
do the size of the stripes matter? I want to build some end grain cutting board from scrap maple stripes . I have several width. For the first glue-up, do I have to resaw the stripes all the same width or would it be OK to glue together a mix of 1'' width, 2" width, 1.5" width, 3'' width? Until I reach my desired total width.
Hi Mark, Good video thanks. A question about your finish. I don't have any wiping varnish, but understand it is basically 50%varnish and 50% mineral spirits. So, for your cutting board finish, would mixing varnish on mineral spirt 1 to 1 get the same result?
Regards, Sam
Great, again
Amazing overview
Mark, what finish would you use on a wooden mug? I want to make some and want a good food safe finish to put on them. Thanks
Me again. I'm going to re-sand and I thought I would use the salad bowl finish. Good idea ???
My board has gaps between the final pieces -- not enough glue perhaps? wondering how to fix, don't want food getting in there.
I have watched your video and read your article regarding finishing an end grain cutting board. I felt the technique of using the salad bowl finish would be the best bet so I tried it on my first cutting board. It seems to have sealed well but I was a little confused as too how long the odor from the finish would last. It's been 3 months and it still has the odor. I haven't tried to wash it to see if that would help with the odor. Today I tried the other method of using mineral oil and paraffin wax and I'm not too fond of this technique. I think I would rather use my first method but I don't care for the lingering odor. Do you how long it would usually take for the odor to disappear?
Thanks
Did you dilute the salad bowl finish with mineral spirits like he did? That helps with the finish penetrating the board and evaporating for drying.
This video was made nine years ago and I think that Mark now realizes that the best cutting boards, according to professional chefs (who work eight hours a day), use plastic cutting boards. Both ASAHI and HASEGAWA make plastic cutting boards. They are not rubber. They are sometimes called "synthetic rubber" but they are plastic. They might respond to a knife blade like rubber would, but they are plastic. No commercial company makes rubber cutting boards. If you know of someone who makes rubber cutting boards, please respond.
Hi Mark, after you cut them into strips and started arranging with the end grain facing up, it looked like it was a different board altogether. The thin strips were in the middle, whereas after initial glue up the thin strips were close to the outside. Maybe I’m looking at it around? Regardless, this is a beautiful board!
That's what I thought too. It just didn't make sense for the patterns. Did you get a response for this question?
@@acupsa unfortunately no response, but I’m sure there was more than one board when the video was made and edited
What blade are you using on your table saw? It cuts that wood like butter!
For the sake of time savings (maybe sanity too), is it ok/possible to buy an unfinished, pre-fabbed, long grain butcher block counter top and just rip width wise and turn them 90^ and re-glue? Thanks and great video and series.
Can you use mahogany boards to make a cutting board?
Note the difference in patterns in the two boards when they are being finished. Take care in how you arrange the boards as explained at 3:10 to achieve your desired block pattern. The pattern shown at 3:10 will yield the mineral oil finished board. While the pattern used at 6:35 will yield the varnish-finished board.
I am a beginner woodworking and absolutely loved your video. Question....You said you are using 8/4 lumber (which my reading says that is 2") but your first piece is 2 1/4"???? I purchased cutting boards from woodworking source and they are 1 3/4" so am wondering what to do.
2 1/4" is the width, not the thickness.
Hi Marc
I´m a huge fan of your´s
i have a few questions about this cutting board, i hope you can help me (i already did this project)
1.- in this video you present 2 different designs of your boards right? after the second cut the pattern its fifferent from the first i think
2.- in the video you said that the measures will be approximately 18" L x 14" W x 1 1/4" T, but with 11 strips (thats the number you said we need after the second cut) my board have only 14" L
i supose that its a mistake in the number of strips, maybe with 13 or 14 strips i will have my 18" L right?
PLEASE tell me if i´m right or what was my mistake because this freaking me out
Thanks and congratulations, your project, videos and channel are great
+Victor Porthos I noticed that too after putting it together. It seems that in the first part of the video, if the boards were matched up the way he mentioned, you wouldn't end up with the 3/4 inch pieces running next to each other along the middle for that thin checker pattern. I was confused when I looked at the final product I made and came back to watch a couple times to confirm.
You look so young😀
LMAO. Did anyone else think of @foodwishes with chef John at 10:20?
I love how 2014 this vid is
considering it was originally published in 2006, I'd say we were ahead of the game :)
Do you coat both sides with the varnish??
I may be really stupid here but last I knew 8/4 is 2 inches and I can't afford the board stretcher to get 2¼ from the 8/4 boards. Little help please. I'm way late to this but am looking forward to making this board Any help appreciated
Who knew 1993 Joe Rogan is quite the woodworker?
You appear to have switched patterns mid stream. At the 6:19 mark you clearly show the pattern from left to right as 2 1/4 Purple heart, 3/4 Maple, 1 3/4 Purple Heart, 1 1/4 Maple, 1 1/4 Purple Heart, 1 3/4 Maple, 3/4 Purple Heart, 2 1/4 Maple. Then at the 6:33 mark in the video suddenly the 2 1/4 Purple Heart is followed by 1 3/4 Maple. This does not agree with the original glue up as shown in the video at the 3:24 mark. I was trying to build this cutting board but could not achieve the finished pattern you show in the video. While looking for my mistake I discovered the inconsistency was in the video... I had done the initial glue up correctly so something changed in the video. Truth be known, I kind of like the pattern I get when following your initial glue up order rather than what appears in the video when sawing the 11 1 1/4 strips. Am I missing something. Oh... not to pile on... but when you turned each strip to expose the end grains for glue up, you didn't turn the last strip. Sorry if I'm knit picking.
Hey Marc, is crosscutting the board @ 6:00 safe? I was considering making myself a sled once I own a table saw. Is saving a little money and cutting it like you did advised? Thank you.
Could I make this with a Festool ts55 instead of a table saw?
Great board really excited to try, wondering how did you get a 18 in. board and the pieces are 15 in. long
Why didn't you flip the last board to expose the end grain on it?
what kind of scraper is that
Quick question - Are you cross cutting the board with a fence around 6:20? It seems stable enough to do, but I was always under the impression that one should never cross cut wood against the fence.
Never cut with both miter AND fence. Since most crosscuts are done with the miter, it is very common to say not to crosscut with the fence. The issue is, you never want to cross the blade with your body, so when using the miter the part against the fence is unattended. Unattended, it has a higher likelihood of shifting into the blade, getting pinched between blade and fence, and kicking back. Get around this by using a stopblock before the blade area, leaving plenty of room between blade and fence so if it does shift some, it just bumps a bit and no real kickback.
Now, you CAN call him on crossing the blade with his body, which is never recommended (due to the potential for kickback), but it is not the crosscut on the fence that is the issue. But I think we all end up breaking this rule, sooner or later. Familiarity and contemppt and all... LOL
Also, his splitter does have anti-kickback thing-a-ma-jigs, which help.
what kind of oil did you use to mix with the bees wax?
Can you do a video describing the relationship between the thickness of the original board, the width of each cut, how you are rotating the pieces to glue, and the dimensions of the resulting board? I am confused, especially because I don't have the ability to change the thickness of my 8/4 boards, only flatten it.
You can change the thickness of 8/4 boards with sequencial runs thru the table saw, small cuts, flipping board end for end after each pass. If this does not split the board use hand saw to finish.
Is the volume of the wax (for the 25%bv) calculated before or after melting?
I don't know how much the volume changes, but volume tends to change when you melt things.
Does using mineral spirits to dilute a food-safe varnish reduce its rating as a food safe product?
Ive made 10 cutting boards in the last few weeks. half long grain and half end grain. My girlfriend cut steaks on her end grain and i just noticed, one it stained from the blood and second, it seems there are "gaps" forming. I use titebond III glue and clamped with pole clamps. WHY would this happen ?
First time I noticed that there’s 2 different boards.