I live in Louisiana. It’s very hot and humid here. Oil breaks down fast during the summer. I only run amsoil in my Harley’s. Change the oil every 3000 miles or less depending on how hard I ride and the color of the oil. Kevin Baxter says he sees the least amount of parts wear using amsoil.
Glad to hear you're taking good care of your motorcycle. It is always good to keep a close eye on your oil level and condition to maximize the life of your engine. , and you're right, those Louisiana summers can be brutal on your oil! Thank you for commenting! 😎 MB
I think most people running amsoil are also people who are paying attention and doing there own maintenance too. The people who just take there bike to the dealership or shop for maintenance/repair.... just get on and ride and don't really care.
Sounds like you have a system that is certainly working for you! You are getting some miles on that bike that is for sure! Thank you for sharing and for commenting! 😎 MB
I live in Toronto , Canada . I use H-D 360 20W50 and Formula + . 3 hole oil change every 2500 miles and before winter storage . 12,500 miles on my 2020 Road King and it runs great. I watch most of your videos Kevin. Thank you for sharing.
I have always changed the engine oil at 5000km - 3000 mile and do a 3 hole plus filter at 10000km - 6000 mile. Mostly ride in 60 - 80 degree weather here in new Zealand. 2010 FXST
2009 Ultra, in AZ so 20f to 120f, about to cross 100k miles. I change all our vehicles every 5k miles, and do everything every 20k (all three on the bike, trucks also get transmission and differential, you get the idea). Use HD oil when amsoil isn’t available (traveling). Only time I changed the oil early was when the bike was overheating stuck in traffic in Phoenix summer. At an engine temp of 370 (according to my Power Vision) I pulled off the highway, checked the oil level (low but still on the dipstick) added oil and hung out at a bar for an hour, then went home. Everything was still in good shape when I opened the engine up later. :)
Sounds like you're doing a great job keeping everything in top shape! Glad to hear the engine held up well after that Phoenix heat. Here is a video on a Common Sense approach to Cooling Down Your Bike - ruclips.net/video/CAcF0T-Cs3E/видео.html Here is a 2 part written report on Why & How to Cool Down Your TC & M8 that you may also find interesting/useful - www.dkcustomproducts.com/why-how-to-cool-down-the-twin-cam-engine-part-i-dk-cl-tc-dn-1.htm Part 2 www.dkcustomproducts.com/why-how-to-cool-down-your-twin-cam-engine-part-ii-dk-cl-tc-dn-2.htm Thank you for commenting! 😎MB
I use Castrol 20w-50 Vtwin full synthetic. It's been a great oil, easily available, and not overly expensive. I change at 3 to 5k or every spring. I have 3 bikes so that's a average season. I use the HD Heavy Gear in chaincase and tranny and use HD filters. Some people worship certain brands, you cannot even have a decent conversation about the subject. Good on you for sharing what you use.
Thanks for sharing your insights. It's awesome to hear you have found a system for maintenance on your bike that is working well for you. Thank you for commenting! 😎MB
Engine 5K, Primary & Transmission 10K… I’m currently running Syn3. I’m switching over to Redline 20-60 and their primary & transmission oils at my next change . Live in the desert southwest. Oil is cheaper than engines .. I don’t know 🤷♂️ why folks believe these super long intervals. Lastly , Thanks for the information you guys put out … especially for new riders/ owners
Some people simply may not know, which is exactly why we create these videos. To inform and help riders keep their bikes running smoothly for longer. I'm glad you enjoy the content and find it helpful. I truly appreciate your support. Thank you for commenting! 😎MB
I change at 5k, which happened to line up time wise with my winter storage prep this year. Thanks to the oil cooler and filter relocation kits (from DK) I installed this summer, the oil change was cleaner and easier than ever. I went Amsoil for the first time, so I won’t know firsthand if it makes a difference until next spring.
Man is that luck or what? I am glad that you are enjoying the benefits of having the Oil Filter Relo and Oil Cooler installed. I hope that your riding next year is nothing but enjoyment! Thank you for commenting! 😎MB
Say for it to make sense on my part: is if you poured hot oil down a funnel. Now pour cold oil. Say a day later with drain plug out, will you find any drips at the drain hole? So a day later, I've pored out more oil from the top end when cold, than a hot one. And the debris in the hot oil? How about the days you did not drain. Aren't they caking/settled at their lowest point already?
Thank you for the question/comment. Three of us have read it and do not know what you are asking/saying. We then asked ChatGPT if they could explain what you are asking. The following is what GPT thinks you are asking, is it correct? "This person is trying to understand how oil temperature affects oil drainage and debris settling in an engine. They are proposing a scenario where hot oil and cold oil are poured through a funnel on different days with the drain plug removed to see if oil drips out differently based on the temperature. They are curious whether cold oil would result in more oil being drained from the top end compared to hot oil. Additionally, they are asking about the behavior of debris within the oil, questioning whether it settles at the bottom and remains there on days when the oil isn't drained." KP
@@DKCustomProducts ChatGPT pretty much nailed it. I'm not asking, I'm observing the two ways to drain oil and their results. The funnel was to observe how much is left at the funnel's tip is probably the same amount left when cold. Only advantage hot is the floating debris of that time it's drained, But what about the fling of debris when the oil is not drained. Keep up to good work.
i have a metric cruiser that shares engine oil in trans.i find it insane the OEM calls for 8k mile oil change intervals on a 3.1 quart system.by 3k miles i can allready feel the shifting feel deterating due to the shearing effects of the oil from the trans.i change it every 3k.& it shifts smooth as butter again.this is an 84 model,& still runs great.so i MUST be doing something right.
Sounds like you've found what works best for your bike! Regular oil changes can definitely make a big difference in performance, especially with shared systems. Keep up the good work! Thank you for commenting! 😎MB
Harley also recommends changing oil annually if 5,000 miles internal is not reached. I store my bike in a heated garage, which is temperature controlled. I ride roughly 1500-2000 miles each year. I change my oil at the beginning of each riding season. My bike is not stored in cold temperatures. So, I am not concerned about water in the oil. I use HD branded oil 20/50. I ride in temperatures between 70-100 degrees. My oil temp has never exceeded 230* during my two years of riding this bike. So, I am convinced my oil is not breaking down prematurely due to heat. I also ride like an old man. Rarely do I ever hammer the throttle. Those days are over (LOL). I used to run Amsoil in my 2020 Freewheeler trike. The top end was always noisy with that oil. At 8,000 miles, one lifter went bad and destroyed the cam. At 8,500 miles after replacing the lifters and cam, the engine sumped and destroyed itself. Basically, a boat anchor. My 2023 Street Glide 107 with HD oil has a quiet top end and burns very little oil. So, I am sticking with it. My two cents : - )
Man that sounds like some bad luck with your previous bike, but it Sounds like you’ve found a good routine that works for your riding conditions. Sticking with HD oil and changing it annually is a solid approach, especially with lower mileage and controlled storage. It’s great that you’ve found a solution that keeps your bike running smoothly and quietly. Thanks for sharing your experience and for commenting! 😎 MB
@@DKCustomProducts I have read comments from engine builders who encourage the use of dino oil in these M8 engines... I have also read some comments from builders who are not fans of Amsoil. All I can attest to is my experience with Amsoil. Once I changed from Amsoil to HD in the trike, the top end was quiet. Who knows. Thanks for the videos and Merry Christmas : - )
Great video. Everyone always focuses on mileage. The owner’s manual on motorcycles and automobiles always have a calendar requirement also. Usually 12 months. Your thoughts on that? Low mileage riders or just we may have a busy year and ride less. I believe the engine engineers put it in there for a reason. Calendar requirements are just as important as mileage. A new Harley-Davidson bike will require an oil change at 1K then the next is 5K. The oil could sit in there for years if mileage is the only focus.
I think it's smart to pay attention to both mileage and time. If you're not hitting 5,000 miles per year, I’d recommend changing the oil at least once a year to ensure it stays fresh and effective. Even if you're not riding as much, oil can break down over time, especially with factors like heat and moisture buildup. Thank you for commenting! 😎 MB
This is my Blackstone comment on my Amsoil oil at 3000 miles with 10000 miles on my 2023 Tri-Glide. The second report for your Harley looks even better than the first! Last time, we predicted that copper would decrease as lingering wear-in material exits the system, and that's exactly what we found here. Copper is now below average, and that shows us that the brass/bronze parts in this engine are wearing normally. Other wear metals improved a little too, and look good at their current readings. No contamination turned up, insolubles remain low, and the oil's viscosity read in 20W/50 spec. If interested, the oil could see more use (assuming it's still in place). Nice report. The oil geek said that the filter you recommend will kill an engine. I have a K&P stainless filter on my bike and the test is good. One other note is that I live in SC and this oil was used in some very hot weather. In 1981 I had a BMW 320i and I did 21000-mile oil changes with Amsoil and I sold the care with 180000 miles. The inside of that motor looked new when I did valve adjustments.
Good to hear you are sending your oil into Blackstone and getting the data. Combining that data with one's ear should give you a good idea on when to change the oil. The filters we run use the same filter cartridge specs of the K&P you are running to get your results. Not sure what Oil Geek was referring to....there are thousands of folks running these filters with good results on their Harley's, including myself. I have close to half a million miles on one of them and have had no issues with it, or any of the engines it has run on. Thank you for commenting! KP
@@DKCustomProducts The filter test. I have one on my Harly and I have no problem. I have the DK relocation mount that I will be installing soon. ruclips.net/video/bVEbHTNWxoQ/видео.html
If we are going to bring up oil changes we need to be fully transparent about the filters too. The motor oil geek also did a test on these reusable oil filters like those that DK and others sell. Compared to traditional paper filters in his tests they were considerably worse than paper filters and he did not recommend using them.
I did watch the Oil Geek video and this is an apples and orange test in a lab, not representative of real world results on a Harley engine that runs for much longer than 1 hour. They are also using different paper filters and Performance filters than are used on Harley's. Thank you for commenting! 👍 MB
Back in the Shovelhead days I changed my oil every thousand miles . Now we have the synthetic expensive stuff. I change it every 3 thousand . Still a small price to pay for dependability.
Hey there Kevin...great video and very informative info. I live in Western Maryland and days I ride are mostly 60°-90°. Been using 20w-50 Amsoil Synthetic every 3,000 miles. I'm 75 on my 3rd triglide and try to ride as much as I can. Been happy with Amsoil. Heat what concerns me. Got tank lift , floorboard xtenders , external breather and PowerVision tuner all to try drop the heat. Between now and spring going order defecter wings from ya.
Those are great upgrades to help cool down your Trike! Can't wait to hear how much cooler your bike is running in the spring! You can see a full written report on Why & How to Cool Down Your TC/M8 at this link that you may find interesting/useful - www.dkcustomproducts.com/why-how-to-cool-down-the-twin-cam-engine-part-i-dk-cl-tc-dn-1.htm Part 2 www.dkcustomproducts.com/why-how-to-cool-down-your-twin-cam-engine-part-ii-dk-cl-tc-dn-2.htm Thank you for commenting! MB
KEVIN,nice work on your video & would like to add something to it. Iv’e been wrenching, rebuilding ,restoring & riding motorcycles all types inc Hd’s for over 5decades & Kevin’s rec to change the oil & filter every 3k-5k miles max with quality Motocycle specific motor oil is 100% correct imho. Iv’e tested most major brand std Dino,semi/blend & full syn bike oil in the motor,trans & prim & I now stick with Spectro oils specifically formulated & engineered for hd v-twins in all 3 holes. I run either their platinum full syn or hvy dty golden semi-blend 20w-50 in the motor changed with new filter at 3k miles,their hvy dty platinum full syn 75w-140 for the 6-speed in the trans changed at 5k miles & their hvy dty 85w prim case oil in the prim usually changed at 3k miles with motor oil,if need be in a pinch time or money wise I can push prim oil change to 5k miles when I change the trans oil. I get the Spectro oil online from ZIPPER’S PERF. Keep in mind the transmission & primary both have gears,chains etc that when under hvy load in summer heat with the motor pushing a heavy loaded bikes riding2 up or a bike that’s often hammered at high rpm thru the gears can prematurely cut/shear the trans & prim Oil’s viscosity on a molecular level in 1-2k miles like Kevin stated too. Bottom line is I rec never running an HD’s oil in all three holes past 5k miles ridden conservatively I’m not extremely heat & hilly areas loaded & at 3k miles max when often ridden fully loaded,2up,in heat & hilly dusty areas too. Also,it’s always a good idea to run a healthy 1.5oz per gal gas dose of chevron’s Techron (in blk bottle marked concentrated) in the last 1-2 tank’s of fuel just prior to each motor oil & filter change too. This will ensure the fuel injectors & stay clean & carbon buildup in comb chambers is Kerry at a minimum too. Lastly,don’t forget to chk the air filter at each motor oil change to clean or replace as required too esp if you haven’t DK’s EBS yet & you air filter & motor have to ingest all the hot oil mist laiden fumes coming from the crankcase that prematurely carbon up the pistons,valves etc. Happy motoring & hope you guys/gals at DKKUSTOMS keep up the good work you do for all of us in the HD community,I/we really appreciate what you do & offer us as solutions to issues with our HD’s. Scott
I am glad you find the videos helpful! Thanks for sharing your extensive experience and recommendations, Scott! Great info on oil changes and the additional tips for keeping things running smoothly. Appreciate the support and kind words! Safe riding! Thank you for your support and for commenting! MB
I’ve had four H-D’s over the years a ‘98 EVO, a’99 TC, a ‘14 TC, and a ‘17 M8. I used Red Line and then Amsoil in the 98&99’s. I live in a mild climate in western Washington and taken some long trips through the western states whe we rode for a few days in ‘90-100 temps. Always 20/50 VIS oils. The EVO wore out the rings at 100k. And I put new S&S jugs and pistons/rings in it and it is still running good. Only engine mods were a new better mild cam that helped that engine breath so I could pass a truck on the interstate with it. The ‘99 TC had S&S 510 Cams gear drive kit put in @ 15k as a preventative maintenance item because of all of the problems folks were having with the tensioners at the time. I sold that bike @ 105k to my nephew who is still riding it. It has 115k on it now. I took it on a 3000k trip @ 98k and it used a 1/2 pint of oil. The engine has never been apart and runs great. The other two bikes don’t have enough miles on them to know how they will be for the long term but I either use Mobil 1 or Amsoil in them and have always changed the oil every 2500 miles or 12 months whichever come first. I never start my bikes unless I’m going for at least a 10 mile ride. I have always used H-D OE filters.
Sounds like you have a solid oil change schedule that has worked well for you over the years! Thanks for sharing your experience and for commenting! 😎MB
Blackstone, or other lab testing for the win here! It is cheap, and easy. With all of my vehicles, I get through the break in. After the first 3K miles, a sample goes to Blackstone. I think it costs $35 for the standard analysis test, so not that expensive. I stick with "high quality synthetic" for whatever that is worth. I don't own a car yet that didn't show significant breakdown at the 5K mile test, and my motorcycles range from 4-7K on the breakdowns. This results in cars getting oil changes at 4K miles, and the bikes anywhere between 3K and 6K depending on how the testing went. These intervals are significantly shorter than the equipment manufacturer or oil company actually recommends.
I ride year round. I don’t own a car. I change my oil every 5,000. I do about 4-6 oil changes a year, plus 2-3 transmission and primary changes a year. I’m running Mobile 1 20W-50. Never any issues.
Hot engine oil holds contaminants suspended in the oil that will be removed as the oil is drained. I run AMSOIL 20W50 synthetic engine oil, changed 5K miles or yearly. I run a Jeggs 10 row oil cooler with thermostat, and a P&K cleanable oil filter. 2007 Fatboy Custom Trike. Also run a DK Customs Catch Can.
It’s great to hear you’re taking a proactive approach to your maintenance with all those mods and have found a system that works for you! Thank you for your business and for commenting! 👍😎👍MB
Another thing to be aware of is fuel contamination. If you have blow by, the fuel getting in the oil will break down the oil additives first. Changing the oil more often is good advice. I was told by a mechanic, "never seen engine failure because the oil was change too often". I change it at or just before 5K, i don't ride hard and on pavement. I use Spectro HD 20W50 conventional oil. Tried different synthetics and they all seem to make the motor noisier.
For colder temperatures and shorter rides oil doesn’t get the chance to fully circulate and reach optimal operating temperature, which can lead to increased contamination. In those conditions, changing the oil more frequently helps maintain engine health. Thank you for commenting! MB
I have run any where between 4000 and 8000 miles on my oil I do oil samples through a reputable company and they always come back with no concerns !!!! just a side note my wife bike is a 103 electraglide we bought it with 1100 miles this summer it turned 115k the only thing I have done to this motor is I put a different cam in it and with that I put an updated oil pump the upper end has never been touch!!!! I can send you a copy of a oil sample if you like
That's really interesting! I am sure Kevin would like to look at those oil sample results if you're willing to share. Glad that your system has been working for you! Thank you for commenting! 🙂 MB
@@DKCustomProducts Kevin, Like Randy, I too have been managing to go about 6500 miles per season. I change out the oil and Filter at the beginning of the season. I run typically 20 W50 as the bike is air-cooled, 10W50 if my dealer has it. At the end of the season. top up the gas tank, take it for a good ride, park it to cool down the exhaust, and then put the cover on it, and then ... "leave it alone". Come spring, cover is off, wipe off any cobwebs, lol, and start it up..... then change the oil and Filter. You want to use a paper-core style filter, not the K&N style filter here. paper gives better filtration of the oil. All my Bikes have lived outside, and have never had issues with this procedure. And even though last winter the temps dropped down to -37C.... The Bike started up without issue in Early April with out the need for a battery tender on it. Stay Safe.
I live in Louisiana also. I change all my fluids every 2500 miles or every 12 months. It’s cheap insurance and it gets hot and humid down here. I use vr1 conventional in the engine, valvoline 85-140 conventional gear oil in the tranny, valvoline type f atf conventional in the primary. I also use a flo reusable oil filter.
That's a great suggestion! Sending your oil to Blackstone can provide a clear picture of its condition and help you determine the best oil change interval based on your specific riding conditions. It’s a more personalized approach and can give you peace of mind knowing exactly when your oil needs changing. Thanks for the tip and for commenting! 😎 MB
I live in Tennessee. My first Harley (103 street Glide Ultra Limited stage 4) I traded in was air cooled with 103000 miles. Motor was clean as a whistle inside with great compression still. My second is a CVO Road Glide Ultra Limited 117 liquid cooled with 89,000 miles. For both bikes I run Mobil 1 20-50 every 5000 miles (can still read the dip-stick through the oil), my primary once a year with mobile 1 20-50 and my transmission fluid once a year with Bel=Ray 80-140 (still bright red). I average 21,000 to 25, 000 a year. Bike runs so good I just had it professionally converted to a trike rather then buying a new one. The only thing I don't do is change my oil before winter. You said it yourself, if you get the motor hot, you burn out all the condensation so there's nothing to worry about till spring if you pull it in and leave it till spring. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!! LOL!
I appreciate you sharing your experience! Sounds like you have a system that is working great for you! That’s quite a few miles you’ve put on those bikes! Thank you for commenting! 👍 MB
I run Amsoil in my trike ,cars, and lawnmowers .I change my Tri Glide all three holes once a year no matter how many miles are on it . I only have 400 miles on it in 2 years due to health issues and changed it twice. It is cheap insurance on a 41,000 dollar Trike
That’s a smart approach! Even with low mileage, changing the oil annually helps protect your investment and ensures everything stays in top shape. Thank you for commenting! 👍😎👍 MB
I spent many years working in the Merchant Marine. We never changed the oil on the larger Sulzer 6 or EMD 645 10 to 20 cylinder engines. The only time the oil was changed on those when they were torn down for overhaul. We only added oil as needed, and they held a hell of a lot of oil. We did change the filters religiously along with the turbocharger filters. The Detroit's and Caterpillars we did change at regular service hour intervals. Now my Harleys, on the other hand, from my 1949 all the way up to my 2012, I change the oil religiously at 3,000 mi. My Russian Ural Gear-Up I change at 2500.
That's a really interesting perspective from your time in the Merchant Marine. Glad you have found a system for your Harley's that works for you! Thank you for commenting! 👍 MB
I use mobile 1 20-50 in the engine. Change every 5k, about. I also use it in the transmission. Change every 10k, about. I use harley 80 in the primary, Change every 10k, about. I live in Texas, ride year round. Traveling western and nothorthern states. What's your thoughts? Thanks for the videos
For your varied riding temps, the 20-50 is fine for the engine. I would run gear oil in the transmission, but tens of thousands run engine oil in the gearbox and never have an issue. I do not know what Harley 80 is. In the primary I have tried a lot of different fluids. I like the syn3 in there. Here's a video you may find interesting where we talk about different fluids in the 3 holes. ruclips.net/video/bNHgNThrqQo/видео.html Thank you for commenting! 👍😎👍 KP
It’s hard for me to wrap my mind around air cooled engines can go 5000 miles between oil changes. But I’m still stuck on the Dino oil thinking. I’m still going to do 3k mile/yearly oil changes. It’s not that expensive when I do it myself. With Texas heat, I suspect the oil is baked by 3k miles.
You're smart to prioritize what works best for your bike in your riding conditions! Yeah, it gets hot in Texas so changing every 3k miles is probably a good routine to follow. Thank you for commenting! 👍😎 MB
You mentioned in minute 18:58 that "your engine doesn't warm up in 15 miles; what's the data behind that? Does time riding then becomes a better factor; let's say riding for 30 minutes...? BTW I am using Castrol part synthetic and change it every six months regardless of mikes. Used straight 50 (live in Fl.) and my mpg went down to 35!
We get that information from monitoring engine and oil temperature hundreds of times, The engine and the engine oil do not get up to full operating temps until 30 to 60 minutes of riding....depending on how one is riding and the ambient temperature. Time does matter because if you are making a lot of short rides and not getting your bike up to operating temps you are going to have condensation and that will effect the oil. Riding your bike with your oil getting too hot is also a factor in breaking down your oil. Sounds like you have a found an oil and system of changing your oil that works for you. Thank you for commenting! 😎MB
When Scott Speed talks about oil i listen. But honestly I do 3000 mile intervals, whether it's my air cooled Harleys or my diesel or my 340000 mile Toyota.
I am the same way with my car. Manual says every 6k miles, but all the cars I had before this was 3k so I will stick to 3k. Thank you for commenting! 😎👍 MB
I have always ran Amsoil and here in South Central Tx it is horrible hot. I change my oil every 3k, that said this year Im running 20-50 up until July and switching to 60W. In Nov it is still in the high 80's and 90's. Im still not a fan of the wire mesh filter but trying to come around to it. Thanks
That sounds like a solid plan for the extreme heat in South Central TX! Switching to 60W in the hotter months should help with better oil protection. Thanks for sharing your approach! Stay cool out there! 😎 MB
I pay a little more and get the TBN tested. It actually tells you the condition of the oil. So you get engine wear and oil condition checked for $30 or $40.
Sending your oil to be tested can provide a clear picture of its condition and help you determine the best oil change interval based on your specific riding conditions. It’s a more personalized approach and can give you peace of mind knowing exactly when your oil needs changing. Thanks for the tip and for commenting! 😎 MB
Hi Kevin, Thanks for all the great videos! Can you confirm are you recommending conventional (automotive) Castrol GTX and not the Go motorcycle version? I have a noisy TC88 and would like to give it a try. Thank you!
I am not recommending/nor recommending any Castrol. I mentioned that I like Castrol GTX (I like it in general, but not for HD engines) and that it was very quiet for the first 1000 miles or so, but then it broke down enough in only 1000 miles to start getting some top end clatter. If you are having top end clatter, the Rocker Lockers at the following link may be a permanent (and less expensive) way to get rid of that clatter. www.dkcustomproducts.com/rocker-lockers-for-harley-davidson-twin-cam-motors-dk-rl-tc.htm Here is a fun video about oil, and what I prefer, and why I prefer what I do. ruclips.net/video/bNHgNThrqQo/видео.html Another thing to make sure of to avoid a noisy engine is to make sure it is running at optimum temperatures. You can see a playlist on this subject at this link- ruclips.net/p/PLb3bvZgbH92_3s-2vv63QggFJ3nteFd_C Always feel free to email or call with any questions: Support@DKCustomProducts.com 662-252-8828 KP
I don’t care where you live or what coast you live. Always change your 3 holes every 3 thousand miles. . If you live on the east coast check the brake fluid every year for moisture.
While changing the oil every 3,000 miles is a solid routine for many riders, Changing the transmission and primary oil every 3k miles is generally unnecessary unless you're noticing performance issues. Most bikes can go longer between oil changes for these components, but regular checks are a good idea to ensure they're in good condition. Regularly checking fluids, like brake fluid, is always a good idea, especially for moisture buildup, which can affect performance. Adjusting based on your riding conditions is key to keeping everything in top shape! Thank you for commenting! 😎 MB
I use redline in my transmission and amsoil in my motor and amsoil primarily fluid in my primary I change my engine oil every 3k and the trans and primary every 5k. I recently did a 2800 mile road trip changed fluids before and after the ride. It’s a cheap price to pay to keep the bike running. I do all my own work so I save a lot of $$$$
The dealerships should have straight 50w or 60w, but as long as your oil is lubricating, staying at or below operating temps and you are running the correct viscosity oil for the ambient temperature it is being ridden in, it doesn't not matter what oil you use! Thank you for commenting! MB
I live in Rochester ny area Drive 70 miles round trip to work hot rod roadglide stock roadglide both carb 2012 dyna switchback stock.. except pipe and ignition 20 50 syn3 all 3 holes 5000 miles cam tensioners at 40,000 miles All run great or did… 72 shovel 96” motor rigid straight 50 valvoline racing oil… no problem every 3000 miles
Glad you like the videos! I am sorry if you find the video hard to hear. We do have good mics and the audio sounds great to me. I will look into making the audio louder in the future. Thank you for your feedback and for commenting! MB
Bought my FXSTC new in 2009 Dealer is right at 100 freeway miles to house non stop Salesman/Tech for many years recommended Keep speed around 60mph. Change from 6th to 5th to vary engine rpm’s She runs great at 50k plus miles The local dealer here had oil change special So hey I got it changed at around 350 miles. Any metals left by factory was cleaned out early That’s my opinion on buying any new V-Twin Change oil early money well spent
Do any riders out there, ever tried putting a small amount of the marvel oil in the fuel tank for extra top end lubrication? - Thanks for oil change information...🏍️
@@DKCustomProducts Nope... Nada .... just the usual gas treatment additive at the end of the season. Never thought about it as my Cylinders aren't sleeved.... they are ceramic-coated aluminum pots....So the ID of the cylinders and the OD of the pistons stay consistent to each other as the engine temp varies. Any oil residual in the cylinders should stay on top of the rings and be there when the engine turns over, and be good for start up in the spring.
As long as your oil is lubricating, staying at or below operating temps and you are running the correct viscosity oil for the ambient temperature it is being ridden in, it doesn't not matter what oil you use! Here is another video on oil that we made that you may find useful/interesting - ruclips.net/video/bNHgNThrqQo/видео.html Thank you for commenting! MB
I tried a friend's recommendation and used Mobile 1. Road a xmas parade that I have done before and before I could get to the final turn I started to lose oil pressure due to oil breaking down "viscosity" from heat. I never had an issue in the past when I ran Bel-Ray , so the moral of this is it mobile one sucks and BelRay is the top notch. .
It sounds like you had a close call, glad you were able to get it sorted out and have found an oil that does work for you. Here is a link to a video on 10 Low to No Cost ways to Cool Down Your Bike - ruclips.net/video/o3T3yA9BKwE/видео.html Here is a 2 part written report on Why & How to Cool Down Your TC & M8 that you may also find interesting/useful - www.dkcustomproducts.com/why-how-to-cool-down-the-twin-cam-engine-part-i-dk-cl-tc-dn-1.htm Part 2 www.dkcustomproducts.com/why-how-to-cool-down-your-twin-cam-engine-part-ii-dk-cl-tc-dn-2.htm Thank you for commenting! 😎MB
My good friend had a 2006 heritage that had 120k miles on it when he traded it off in 2020 with no major work done to the bike. He used automotive valvoline at the recommended milages. He was the only owner of that bike. Changing on time may be more important than oil quality.
Kevin I believe you are a living Harley Davidson.Now its other on RUclips but you bring passion brother when it comes down to taken care of a Harley go hard, and one more thing if there was a motorcycle oil that you could get a reliable 7000 miles out of I would call it Kevin oils
About 3000 miles 5000k I use penrite .. I do change primary and box oil too. Box oil in box. Primary or 15/50 penrite in primary .. on my interstate bike I run straight 50 due to a 5000 mile /8000k ride in a day . And the oil is 4 stroke mc50. And use mineral. As I change it often enough. The only bike I’m not happy with 20/50 in is my 95ci gear drive dyna. I think the gear drive works the oil a bit harder. And here in Australia my oil gets hotter than 230* on acaisions with an oil cooler. But they ar 103ci. Cammed and 10/1 comp
i have been taking care of my fathers 18 tri glide ultra for him since he had it. i change the oil every 2000 to 2500 miles and primary and trans. every other oil change so 4 to 5k miles and it ran perfect for 100k miles to he passed away third weekend i went riding that 10 lobe oil pump and a sumping issue entire motor had to be rebuilt but heads and engine case needed replacing. Thank god was still under warrenty. I would never do 5 to 7k change dont even do that in a car im from the 70s and 2k miles i usually start thinking when i can do the oil change. Maybe i change it to often but no harm in that but the wallet some but good maintance is cheaper then a big repair bill. The oil was always syn3 for engine and primary the harley dealer sells redline for transmission after watching dk video of oils that he used in his i tried it stayed with it. My father always believed in buying the stuff from dealer incase something ever happened it be on record in comp when stuff was bought and when motor went the guy tommy the service writer had to prove oil changes where done on bike they tried to get out of the warrenty work.
I'm sorry to hear about your experience but it sounds like you were doing everything right. I am glad that you were able to get the Tri Glide fixed under warranty! Thank you for sharing your story and for commenting! 😎 MB
I was told to change the oil every 1,000 miles. Maybe because I live in Florida. Plus there is a difference between city driving and highway driving. If you do more city driving than highway driving, should change your oil more frequent.
City driving can definitely lead to more frequent oil changes. City riding can certainly cause the bike to run hotter and can be harder on the engine. Thank you for commenting! MB
Using Schaeffer 20x50 and changing oil in my RoadGlide and TriGlide usually at about 5000 miles. Used to run Amsoil , so far so good. What are your thoughts on oil changes if not running 5000 miles per year.
If you're not hitting 5,000 miles per year, I’d recommend changing the oil at least once a year to ensure it stays fresh and effective. Even if you're not riding as much, oil can break down over time, especially with factors like heat and moisture buildup. Thank you for commenting! 😎 MB
Probably a stupid question but if you pull your oil tank cap off for a few minutes after a ride think it might allow some of the condensation to be released?
Not a stupid question at all! Removing the oil tank cap briefly after a ride can help release some condensation, but it's best to ride your bike until fully warmed up to allow moisture to evaporate properly. Thank you for commenting! 😎👍 MB
Good info. I didn't know about runnin straight 50 if you ride in over 60 mostly. Off topic what is the best highflow air filter DK sells for a 107 m8? I don't care about looks?
All of our Air Cleaners work the same. Our most popular for touring model bikes are the 606 seen at this link - www.dkcustomproducts.com/twin-cam-model-hiflow-606-air-cleaners-complete-systems-c643-298.htm or the 828 seen at this link - www.dkcustomproducts.com/twin-cam-outlaw-hiflow-828-air-cleaner-complete-systems-99.htm Either one will give you more than enough air for your bike. Here is a report that may help you make the best decision on which air cleaner you want for your bike and riding - www.dkcustomproducts.com/differences-between-outlaw-hiflow-air-cleaner-systems-dk-faq-acs.htm Please feel free to contact us with any questions or concerns: Support@DKCustomProducts.com 662-252-8828 Thank you for commenting! 😎 MB
I have experienced bad results running synthetic oil in my Harley. Therefore I run conventional HD 360 but change it every 2,000 miles. I run synthetic in every other engine I own but these are plain bearing engines. Synthetic oil is already broken down in the manufacturing process making the molecules all the same size, but smaller. Great for plain bearing engines but not Harley roller bearing engines. I was a Manufacturing Engineer at 3 engine plants including Harley. 4 master techs and engineers agree with my analysis. Even Amsoil did not dispute my claim. With all that said, why people will spend the extra money for synthetic and get cheap about regular oil change intervals is beyond me. Folks will spend $100 or more on a night out and think nothing about it but get cheap about this? Some folks treat their Harley like a Ferrari when in reality they are still an old line push rod twin. All oils will become contaminated and essentially wear out. Nothing is forever!
I appreciate you sharing your insight and expertise! It’s important to choose the right oil and follow proper maintenance for your bike! Thank you for commenting! 👍 MB
We use the Permanent High Performance Oil Filters. You can see video on it at them link - ruclips.net/video/__WbuX1IT1c/видео.html You can see the Filter at this link - www.dkcustomproducts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=permanent+oil+filter Thank you for commenting! MB
Fortnine ran a test on those fancy filters. Unless you have the capacity to actually test, I will stick with the proven and reliable paper filter (the winner) and continue to keep to my schedule of 5k on all holes. Peace!
I had the oil on my 2014 ultra classic analyzed at 5000…..7500……and 10,000 miles. The oil (Amsoil) showed that it was actually still good. That’s having it professionally analyzed. I started changing it at 7500 just because I don’t always ride the same.
Thanks for sharing your experience! It's great to hear that your oil analysis showed good results. Your bike must be running at great temps! Thank you for commenting! MB
Oil changes are Cheap ! Cheap insurance that your engine can keep running for a long time. It's not about how good the oil is, it's about contamination and viscosity breakdown. If you keep the oil clean and uncontaminated you might get 5-6 thousand miles between oil changes. However, oil changes are cheap and oil filters are not designed to keep your oil clean for 10,000 miles despite what they claim. It is virtually impossible to keep the oil clean unless you have a separate filter unit like the Amzoil bypass filter. Run the oil viscosity recommended by the manufacturer and do not add any additives to that oil. Valvoline is my go to oil for any of my vehicles.
Great point! Regular oil changes are definitely a cost-effective way to protect your engine. I agree that keeping the oil clean is key, and sticking to the manufacturer's recommended viscosity is important for long engine life. Thank you for sharing and for commenting! MB
even expensive oils are cheap compared to an engine, primary or transmission. I use Amsoil and I still change all three components every 3000 miles. I find it to be cheap insurance.
I have 1hr commute and my oil never gets over 200 degrees, often never getting over 190, with ultra cool cooler and flo oil filter. I still try to never go over 3000 miles between changing. 07 road king classic
Keeping the oil temperature in check is key to engine health, and changing the oil every 3,000 miles, even with low temperatures, is a solid preventative measure. Sounds like your Road King Classic is in good hands! Thank you for commenting! 👍 MB
@@DKCustomProducts I should also add that my original engine took a huge dump after 52,000 miles of always running hot as hell. It was rebuilt with 107 big bore, high flow pump, woods 777 cams, true dual exhaust, and oil cooler. I don't know the exact temp it was reaching as stock, but I'm willing to bet it spent a lot of time over 230. It was trashed inside.
@jeffdent4619, what ambient temps are you riding in, that your oil won't go > 190 in a 1 hr. ride? I was skeptical of the video's claim that 15 miles wasn't sufficient to reach operating temp., but 1 hr? Just curious.
@joekubesch8558 60 degree mornings oil won't go above 190. Cooler mornings it won't even hit 190. I need the cover for my oil cooler in cold temps. On a 90 degree day the fans won't even kick on as long as I'm on the highway. Even in stop and go traffic 210 is the highest temp I've seen.
Changing the transmission and primary oil every 5k miles is generally unnecessary unless specified by the manufacturer or if you're noticing performance issues. Most bikes can go longer between oil changes for these components, but regular checks are a good idea to ensure they're in good condition. Thank you for commenting! 😎 MB
Last time I ordered oil, I accidentally ordered 20w60 (redline synthetic) other than potential cold weather starts, do you see any issue running this ? Every 3 holes 5k
It is optimum to use the viscosity oil recommended by HD, as shown in the video. However, as long as you are not riding in very cold temps (below 40 F), the oil you got will lubricate fine. Thank you for commenting! 👍KP
The Thought of 15 K miles on (ANY ) Engine Oil Change to save an $ 150 - 300 on 3 Oil changes to only spend 5 k +++ way up on another Replacement Engine is totally ridiculous might add Amsoil sin 2050 or 50 - 60 st wt here in middle GA it get hot here lot 80 - 90 + days & rarely under 30 degrees for more than a few weeks total
I hear you about those scorching days in Georgia. I'm glad you're taking preventative measures and always paying attention to your engine. Yeah, shorter interval oil changes is much less expensive than replacing an engine. Thank you for commenting! MB
I got work done to my bike and the mechanic put full synthetic oil in the engine, when harley recoments 60 weight where I am in midwest Australia and our sumer can get to 50c and always over 27c, Why would he put synthetic in a 2007 ultra? oh and the engine is a heap louder'
There is a straight 60w synthetic oil. I can not speak for why your mechanic would put that oil in your bike, but if the engine is noticeably louder, and you do not feel like it is the best oil for your bike you may look into a better oil and change it. Thank you for commenting! 👍MB
You're absolutely right that water contamination, especially from internal condensation, is a major issue. However, heat also plays a significant role in oil breakdown, as it can cause the additives to degrade and accelerate contamination. Both heat and moisture can impact the oil's effectiveness, which is why regular oil changes and proper maintenance are crucial. Thank you for commenting!👍 MB
I watch Scottie to Kevin. But I wish they had a oil that you could get a reliable 7,000 mile before change, it seems that 3000 miles comes fast and I change my own oil
To true oil cheaper then rebuild i run synthetic in my turbo shovelhead 20w60 as daily ride it in city open highway in Australia heat aslo good to get ya oil hot sometimes to burn out the contaminants
Especially on any air cooled motor you are nuts going more than 3K miles if you plan on keeping that bike for any length of time . These motorcycle oils reach 250-300 degrees during their life !
Great point! Oil temps are definitely something to be aware of, and changing your oil more frequently can definitely help keep your engine running smoothly for years to come! That's why we put so much focus on cooling your engine and oil. Thanks for commenting. MB😎
You make a valid point. The push for environmental regulations does influence vehicle design, and some aspects of modern vehicles may seem focused on limiting environmental impact, sometimes at the cost of longevity. Thank you for commenting! 😎 MB
That sounds frustrating! If you're having persistent issues, it might be worth checking for leaks or other maintenance needs. Hopefully, things smooth out for you soon! If you are wanting to check the health of your motor or see if you have a real issue doing a Leak Down Test or Compression Test will give you answers. Here is a video on Compression vs Leak Down that you may find interesting - ruclips.net/video/uIDxZdRB1kA/видео.html Thank you for commenting! 😎MB
Removing the CAT will not decrease engine heat very much, but it will reduce Felt heat tremendously. Here is a report on Why and How to Cool Down a TC & M8 that you may find interesting/useful if you are worried about your bike running hot - www.dkcustomproducts.com/why-how-to-cool-down-your-twin-cam-engine-part-ii-dk-cl-tc-dn-2.htm Thank you for commenting! MB
Oil threads are like,”How many licks does it take to get to the tootsie roll center of a tootsie roll pop?” I don’t know…Ask Mr. Owl…😂 My Harley: Syn3 20-50w first 20,000 miles every 2500. After20,000 every 5000. 63,000 miles of smiles My 49 yr.old Yamaha every 2000 miles 20-50 regular Spectro 4. 72,000 miles of smiles My 14 yr. Old Ural: Every 1,550. miles regular 20-50 Spectro 4 . 71,000 miles of smiles. Life is good….
It’s great to hear you’re getting so many miles out of your bikes! Sounds like you’ve found a maintenance schedule that works for you. Wishing you many more miles of smiles! Thank you for commenting! 😎 👍 MB
That’s an interesting perspective, but unfortunately, adding oil doesn’t replace the need for regular oil changes. Over time, oil breaks down and loses its effectiveness, even if it’s topped off. Regular oil changes help keep the engine running smoothly and protect it from wear. It might be worth having a conversation with your friend about the importance of oil changes! Thank you for commenting! MB
Sounds like you are taking a proactive approach for the longevity of your motor. Glad you have found a system that works for you! Thank you for commenting!😎 MB
You're absolutely right! Heat is a major factor in breaking down the additives in oil. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, and thank you for commenting! 👍 MB
I have access to low cost oil analysis since August with my new job(catapillar)I have been using 20w50 motul 7100 in a new bike since june(Suzuki 800de) at 5000km sample its sheered to a 10w40, at 7000km end of season change, still a 10w40 and wear metals are low. I'll have to start sampling my 2000 95" fxdwg. And i might change to putting amsoil 20w50 in everything and see what the lab says about that oil. Absolutely do not run a metal screen reusable filter.... this is trash advice!
Thanks for your comment. Very nice that you have access to that low cost analysis. Interesting that the viscosity modifiers has already broken down at 5000km. Curious why you kept running it when it had dropped in viscosity rating? Also an interesting comment about a metal screen reusable filter. Not sure what you are referring to. We have used Performance, Reusable Oil Filters, as seen at the link below, for almost 2 decades. We also have hundreds of Customers that have used them for millions of miles. Never had a single report of anyone using them that has had any trouble. I personally have close to half a million miles on one of them and have had no issues with it, or any of the engines it has run on. Perhaps you are talking about something different, the one at this link uses a stainless-steel micronic cloth, not a metal screen. www.dkcustomproducts.com/outlaw-high-performance-cleanable-oil-filter-in-polished-finish-dk-ocof-crm.htm KP
You can leave your oil in as long as you like, but guess what? Whatever happens is on you! For example, you can buy automotive oil that says it’s good for 15,000 km but if you look in your owners manual, it will tell you that that is too long of an interval so whatever happens to your engine is on you. Oil is cheap engines are not. Why Take a chance and push the limits with your engine oil. It does not make any sense to me. Also the oil in an air cool engine is working harder and is going to break down faster compared to something that is liquid cooled especially if you live in a hot climate.
You're absolutely right! Knowledge gained through research and experience goes a long way in understanding maintenance and care. It’s always good to stay informed and make decisions based on both experience and reliable information. Thank you for commenting! 😎MB
I live in Louisiana. It’s very hot and humid here. Oil breaks down fast during the summer. I only run amsoil in my Harley’s. Change the oil every 3000 miles or less depending on how hard I ride and the color of the oil. Kevin Baxter says he sees the least amount of parts wear using amsoil.
Glad to hear you're taking good care of your motorcycle. It is always good to keep a close eye on your oil level and condition to maximize the life of your engine. , and you're right, those Louisiana summers can be brutal on your oil! Thank you for commenting! 😎 MB
I think most people running amsoil are also people who are paying attention and doing there own maintenance too. The people who just take there bike to the dealership or shop for maintenance/repair.... just get on and ride and don't really care.
I’ve always used Amsoil in my bike. I agree I think it’s got to be one of the best.
I used Amsoil for a long time, but I found Bel Ray is even a better grade.
I’ve heard of bel ray. Where do I find the proof that bel ray is better than amsoil? Or is that something you just personally think?
Project Farmer does a great job on testing motor oils..very thorough!!!
Awesome! I will have to check them out. Thank you for sharing and for commenting! 😎MB
@@DKCustomProductsProject Farm, not farmer.
HD conventional. 3000mi changes. I am on my second bike with 120,000+ miles,no issues.
Sounds like you have a system that is certainly working for you! You are getting some miles on that bike that is for sure! Thank you for sharing and for commenting! 😎 MB
Yeah, that's what I run. Get it free, with credit card rewards. Never had a problem, in 25 years. I even run it in my Panhead, 60w.
I live in Toronto , Canada .
I use H-D 360 20W50 and Formula + .
3 hole oil change every 2500 miles and before winter storage .
12,500 miles on my 2020 Road King and it runs great.
I watch most of your videos Kevin. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for sharing your experience, that's a lot of miles on your Road King! Ride Safe Ride Free!!! Thank you for commenting! 😎 MB
I have always changed the engine oil at 5000km - 3000 mile and do a 3 hole plus filter at 10000km - 6000 mile. Mostly ride in 60 - 80 degree weather here in new Zealand. 2010 FXST
Thanks for the input, I'm glad that you've found a schedule that works well for you! Thank you for commenting! 😎 MB
2009 Ultra, in AZ so 20f to 120f, about to cross 100k miles.
I change all our vehicles every 5k miles, and do everything every 20k (all three on the bike, trucks also get transmission and differential, you get the idea).
Use HD oil when amsoil isn’t available (traveling).
Only time I changed the oil early was when the bike was overheating stuck in traffic in Phoenix summer. At an engine temp of 370 (according to my Power Vision) I pulled off the highway, checked the oil level (low but still on the dipstick) added oil and hung out at a bar for an hour, then went home.
Everything was still in good shape when I opened the engine up later. :)
Sounds like you're doing a great job keeping everything in top shape! Glad to hear the engine held up well after that Phoenix heat.
Here is a video on a Common Sense approach to Cooling Down Your Bike - ruclips.net/video/CAcF0T-Cs3E/видео.html
Here is a 2 part written report on Why & How to Cool Down Your TC & M8 that you may also find interesting/useful - www.dkcustomproducts.com/why-how-to-cool-down-the-twin-cam-engine-part-i-dk-cl-tc-dn-1.htm
Part 2
www.dkcustomproducts.com/why-how-to-cool-down-your-twin-cam-engine-part-ii-dk-cl-tc-dn-2.htm
Thank you for commenting! 😎MB
I use Castrol 20w-50 Vtwin full synthetic. It's been a great oil, easily available, and not overly expensive. I change at 3 to 5k or every spring. I have 3 bikes so that's a average season. I use the HD Heavy Gear in chaincase and tranny and use HD filters. Some people worship certain brands, you cannot even have a decent conversation about the subject. Good on you for sharing what you use.
Thanks for sharing your insights. It's awesome to hear you have found a system for maintenance on your bike that is working well for you. Thank you for commenting! 😎MB
Engine 5K, Primary & Transmission 10K… I’m currently running Syn3. I’m switching over to Redline 20-60 and their primary & transmission oils at my next change . Live in the desert southwest. Oil is cheaper than engines .. I don’t know 🤷♂️ why folks believe these super long intervals. Lastly , Thanks for the information you guys put out … especially for new riders/ owners
Some people simply may not know, which is exactly why we create these videos. To inform and help riders keep their bikes running smoothly for longer. I'm glad you enjoy the content and find it helpful. I truly appreciate your support. Thank you for commenting! 😎MB
I'd say don't start up unless you are going to get it up to operating temperature.
That is a good practice! Thank you for commenting! MB
I change at 5k, which happened to line up time wise with my winter storage prep this year. Thanks to the oil cooler and filter relocation kits (from DK) I installed this summer, the oil change was cleaner and easier than ever. I went Amsoil for the first time, so I won’t know firsthand if it makes a difference until next spring.
Man is that luck or what? I am glad that you are enjoying the benefits of having the Oil Filter Relo and Oil Cooler installed. I hope that your riding next year is nothing but enjoyment! Thank you for commenting! 😎MB
Say for it to make sense on my part: is if you poured hot oil down a funnel. Now pour cold oil. Say a day later with drain plug out, will you find any drips at the drain hole? So a day later, I've pored out more oil from the top end when cold, than a hot one. And the debris in the hot oil? How about the days you did not drain. Aren't they caking/settled at their lowest point already?
Thank you for the question/comment. Three of us have read it and do not know what you are asking/saying.
We then asked ChatGPT if they could explain what you are asking. The following is what GPT thinks you are asking, is it correct?
"This person is trying to understand how oil temperature affects oil drainage and debris settling in an engine. They are proposing a scenario where hot oil and cold oil are poured through a funnel on different days with the drain plug removed to see if oil drips out differently based on the temperature. They are curious whether cold oil would result in more oil being drained from the top end compared to hot oil. Additionally, they are asking about the behavior of debris within the oil, questioning whether it settles at the bottom and remains there on days when the oil isn't drained."
KP
@@DKCustomProducts ChatGPT pretty much nailed it. I'm not asking, I'm observing the two ways to drain oil and their results. The funnel was to observe how much is left at the funnel's tip is probably the same amount left when cold. Only advantage hot is the floating debris of that time it's drained, But what about the fling of debris when the oil is not drained. Keep up to good work.
i have a metric cruiser that shares engine oil in trans.i find it insane the OEM calls for 8k mile oil change intervals on a 3.1 quart system.by 3k miles i can allready feel the shifting feel deterating due to the shearing effects of the oil from the trans.i change it every 3k.& it shifts smooth as butter again.this is an 84 model,& still runs great.so i MUST be doing something right.
Sounds like you've found what works best for your bike! Regular oil changes can definitely make a big difference in performance, especially with shared systems. Keep up the good work! Thank you for commenting! 😎MB
Harley also recommends changing oil annually if 5,000 miles internal is not reached. I store my bike in a heated garage, which is temperature controlled. I ride roughly 1500-2000 miles each year. I change my oil at the beginning of each riding season. My bike is not stored in cold temperatures. So, I am not concerned about water in the oil. I use HD branded oil 20/50. I ride in temperatures between 70-100 degrees. My oil temp has never exceeded 230* during my two years of riding this bike. So, I am convinced my oil is not breaking down prematurely due to heat. I also ride like an old man. Rarely do I ever hammer the throttle. Those days are over (LOL). I used to run Amsoil in my 2020 Freewheeler trike. The top end was always noisy with that oil. At 8,000 miles, one lifter went bad and destroyed the cam. At 8,500 miles after replacing the lifters and cam, the engine sumped and destroyed itself. Basically, a boat anchor. My 2023 Street Glide 107 with HD oil has a quiet top end and burns very little oil. So, I am sticking with it. My two cents : - )
Man that sounds like some bad luck with your previous bike, but it Sounds like you’ve found a good routine that works for your riding conditions. Sticking with HD oil and changing it annually is a solid approach, especially with lower mileage and controlled storage. It’s great that you’ve found a solution that keeps your bike running smoothly and quietly. Thanks for sharing your experience and for commenting! 😎 MB
@@DKCustomProducts I have read comments from engine builders who encourage the use of dino oil in these M8 engines... I have also read some comments from builders who are not fans of Amsoil. All I can attest to is my experience with Amsoil. Once I changed from Amsoil to HD in the trike, the top end was quiet. Who knows. Thanks for the videos and Merry Christmas : - )
Glad you found an oil that works for you! Thank you for commenting! MB
Great video. Everyone always focuses on mileage. The owner’s manual on motorcycles and automobiles always have a calendar requirement also. Usually 12 months. Your thoughts on that? Low mileage riders or just we may have a busy year and ride less. I believe the engine engineers put it in there for a reason. Calendar requirements are just as important as mileage. A new Harley-Davidson bike will require an oil change at 1K then the next is 5K. The oil could sit in there for years if mileage is the only focus.
I think it's smart to pay attention to both mileage and time. If you're not hitting 5,000 miles per year, I’d recommend changing the oil at least once a year to ensure it stays fresh and effective. Even if you're not riding as much, oil can break down over time, especially with factors like heat and moisture buildup. Thank you for commenting! 😎 MB
This is my Blackstone comment on my Amsoil oil at 3000 miles with 10000 miles on my 2023 Tri-Glide. The second report for your Harley looks even better than the first! Last time, we predicted that copper would decrease as lingering wear-in material exits the system, and that's exactly what we found
here. Copper is now below average, and that shows us that the brass/bronze parts in this engine are
wearing normally. Other wear metals improved a little too, and look good at their current readings. No
contamination turned up, insolubles remain low, and the oil's viscosity read in 20W/50 spec. If interested,
the oil could see more use (assuming it's still in place). Nice report. The oil geek said that the filter you recommend will kill an engine. I have a K&P stainless filter on my bike and the test is good. One other note is that I live in SC and this oil was used in some very hot weather. In 1981 I had a BMW 320i and I did 21000-mile oil changes with Amsoil and I sold the care with 180000 miles. The inside of that motor looked new when I did valve adjustments.
I do all 3 holes at 10k using amsoil. I have for many years with no problems. What was the issue with the oil filter?
Good to hear you are sending your oil into Blackstone and getting the data. Combining that data with one's ear should give you a good idea on when to change the oil.
The filters we run use the same filter cartridge specs of the K&P you are running to get your results.
Not sure what Oil Geek was referring to....there are thousands of folks running these filters with good results on their Harley's, including myself. I have close to half a million miles on one of them and have had no issues with it, or any of the engines it has run on.
Thank you for commenting! KP
@@DKCustomProducts The filter test.
I have one on my Harly and I have no problem. I have the DK relocation mount that I will be installing soon.
ruclips.net/video/bVEbHTNWxoQ/видео.html
@@DKCustomProducts the filter test. ruclips.net/video/bVEbHTNWxoQ/видео.html
try the mobil 1 15w-50 full synthetic it has impressed me
Awesome, I will look into that. I am glad that you have found an oil that works well for you. Thank you for sharing and for commenting! 👍MB
If we are going to bring up oil changes we need to be fully transparent about the filters too. The motor oil geek also did a test on these reusable oil filters like those that DK and others sell. Compared to traditional paper filters in his tests they were considerably worse than paper filters and he did not recommend using them.
I did watch the Oil Geek video and this is an apples and orange test in a lab, not representative of real world results on a Harley engine that runs for much longer than 1 hour. They are also using different paper filters and Performance filters than are used on Harley's. Thank you for commenting! 👍 MB
Back in the Shovelhead days I changed my oil every thousand miles . Now we have the synthetic expensive stuff. I change it every 3 thousand . Still a small price to pay for dependability.
Maintenance is certainly cheaper than an engine build. Thank you for commenting! MB
Hey there Kevin...great video and very informative info. I live in Western Maryland and days I ride are mostly 60°-90°. Been using 20w-50 Amsoil Synthetic every 3,000 miles. I'm 75 on my 3rd triglide and try to ride as much as I can. Been happy with Amsoil. Heat what concerns me. Got tank lift , floorboard xtenders , external breather and PowerVision tuner all to try drop the heat. Between now and spring going order defecter wings from ya.
Those are great upgrades to help cool down your Trike! Can't wait to hear how much cooler your bike is running in the spring!
You can see a full written report on Why & How to Cool Down Your TC/M8 at this link that you may find interesting/useful - www.dkcustomproducts.com/why-how-to-cool-down-the-twin-cam-engine-part-i-dk-cl-tc-dn-1.htm
Part 2
www.dkcustomproducts.com/why-how-to-cool-down-your-twin-cam-engine-part-ii-dk-cl-tc-dn-2.htm
Thank you for commenting! MB
KEVIN,nice work on your video & would like to add something to it.
Iv’e been wrenching, rebuilding ,restoring & riding motorcycles all types inc Hd’s for over 5decades & Kevin’s rec to change the oil & filter every 3k-5k miles max with quality Motocycle specific motor oil is 100% correct imho.
Iv’e tested most major brand std Dino,semi/blend & full syn bike oil in the motor,trans & prim & I now stick with Spectro oils specifically formulated & engineered for hd v-twins in all 3 holes.
I run either their platinum full syn or hvy dty golden semi-blend 20w-50 in the motor changed with new filter at 3k miles,their hvy dty platinum full syn 75w-140 for the 6-speed in the trans changed at 5k miles & their hvy dty 85w prim case oil in the prim usually changed at 3k miles with motor oil,if need be in a pinch time or money wise I can push prim oil change to 5k miles when I change the trans oil. I get the Spectro oil online from ZIPPER’S PERF. Keep in mind the transmission & primary both have gears,chains etc that when under hvy load in summer heat with the motor pushing a heavy loaded bikes riding2 up or a bike that’s often hammered at high rpm thru the gears can prematurely cut/shear the trans & prim Oil’s viscosity on a molecular level in 1-2k miles like Kevin stated too.
Bottom line is I rec never running an HD’s oil in all three holes past 5k miles ridden conservatively I’m not extremely heat & hilly areas loaded & at 3k miles max when often ridden fully loaded,2up,in heat & hilly dusty areas too.
Also,it’s always a good idea to run a healthy 1.5oz per gal gas dose of chevron’s Techron (in blk bottle marked concentrated) in the last 1-2 tank’s of fuel just prior to each motor oil & filter change too. This will ensure the fuel injectors & stay clean & carbon buildup in comb chambers is Kerry at a minimum too.
Lastly,don’t forget to chk the air filter at each motor oil change to clean or replace as required too esp if you haven’t DK’s EBS yet & you air filter & motor have to ingest all the hot oil mist laiden fumes coming from the crankcase that prematurely carbon up the pistons,valves etc.
Happy motoring & hope you guys/gals at DKKUSTOMS keep up the good work you do for all of us in the HD community,I/we really appreciate what you do & offer us as solutions to issues with our HD’s.
Scott
I am glad you find the videos helpful! Thanks for sharing your extensive experience and recommendations, Scott! Great info on oil changes and the additional tips for keeping things running smoothly. Appreciate the support and kind words! Safe riding! Thank you for your support and for commenting! MB
I’ve had four H-D’s over the years a ‘98 EVO, a’99 TC, a ‘14 TC, and a ‘17 M8. I used Red Line and then Amsoil in the 98&99’s. I live in a mild climate in western Washington and taken some long trips through the western states whe we rode for a few days in ‘90-100 temps. Always 20/50 VIS oils. The EVO wore out the rings at 100k. And I put new S&S jugs and pistons/rings in it and it is still running good. Only engine mods were a new better mild cam that helped that engine breath so I could pass a truck on the interstate with it. The ‘99 TC had S&S 510 Cams gear drive kit put in @ 15k as a preventative maintenance item because of all of the problems folks were having with the tensioners at the time. I sold that bike @ 105k to my nephew who is still riding it. It has 115k on it now. I took it on a 3000k trip @ 98k and it used a 1/2 pint of oil. The engine has never been apart and runs great. The other two bikes don’t have enough miles on them to know how they will be for the long term but I either use Mobil 1 or Amsoil in them and have always changed the oil every 2500 miles or 12 months whichever come first. I never start my bikes unless I’m going for at least a 10 mile ride. I have always used H-D OE filters.
Sounds like you have a solid oil change schedule that has worked well for you over the years! Thanks for sharing your experience and for commenting! 😎MB
Blackstone, or other lab testing for the win here! It is cheap, and easy. With all of my vehicles, I get through the break in. After the first 3K miles, a sample goes to Blackstone. I think it costs $35 for the standard analysis test, so not that expensive. I stick with "high quality synthetic" for whatever that is worth. I don't own a car yet that didn't show significant breakdown at the 5K mile test, and my motorcycles range from 4-7K on the breakdowns. This results in cars getting oil changes at 4K miles, and the bikes anywhere between 3K and 6K depending on how the testing went. These intervals are significantly shorter than the equipment manufacturer or oil company actually recommends.
Glad to hear you're taking a proactive approach to your oil changes! Thank you for sharing the information about Blackstone and for commenting!👍 MB
I ride year round. I don’t own a car. I change my oil every 5,000. I do about 4-6 oil changes a year, plus 2-3 transmission and primary changes a year. I’m running Mobile 1 20W-50. Never any issues.
Glad to hear you've found a system that works for you! Ride Safe Ride Free!!! Thank you for commenting! 👍 MB
Hot engine oil holds contaminants suspended in the oil that will be removed as the oil is drained. I run AMSOIL 20W50 synthetic engine oil, changed 5K miles or yearly. I run a Jeggs 10 row oil cooler with thermostat, and a P&K cleanable oil filter. 2007 Fatboy Custom Trike. Also run a DK Customs Catch Can.
It’s great to hear you’re taking a proactive approach to your maintenance with all those mods and have found a system that works for you! Thank you for your business and for commenting! 👍😎👍MB
Another thing to be aware of is fuel contamination. If you have blow by, the fuel getting in the oil will break down the oil additives first. Changing the oil more often is good advice. I was told by a mechanic, "never seen engine failure because the oil was change too often". I change it at or just before 5K, i don't ride hard and on pavement. I use Spectro HD 20W50 conventional oil. Tried different synthetics and they all seem to make the motor noisier.
I appreciate your insights and sharing your experience with oil changes! Thank you for commenting! 👍 MB
The m8 softail book says in cold ambient temperatures 60 degrees or less and ride 15 miles or less per ride, oil change interval is 1,500 miles.
For colder temperatures and shorter rides oil doesn’t get the chance to fully circulate and reach optimal operating temperature, which can lead to increased contamination. In those conditions, changing the oil more frequently helps maintain engine health. Thank you for commenting! MB
I have run any where between 4000 and 8000 miles on my oil
I do oil samples through a reputable company
and they always come back with no concerns !!!!
just a side note my wife bike is a 103 electraglide
we bought it with 1100 miles
this summer it turned 115k
the only thing I have done to this motor
is I put a different cam in it and with that I put an updated oil pump
the upper end has never been touch!!!!
I can send you a copy of a oil sample if you like
That's really interesting! I am sure Kevin would like to look at those oil sample results if you're willing to share. Glad that your system has been working for you! Thank you for commenting! 🙂 MB
@@DKCustomProducts Kevin, Like Randy, I too have been managing to go about 6500 miles per season. I change out the oil and Filter at the beginning of the season. I run typically 20 W50 as the bike is air-cooled, 10W50 if my dealer has it. At the end of the season. top up the gas tank, take it for a good ride, park it to cool down the exhaust, and then put the cover on it, and then ... "leave it alone". Come spring, cover is off, wipe off any cobwebs, lol, and start it up..... then change the oil and Filter. You want to use a paper-core style filter, not the K&N style filter here. paper gives better filtration of the oil. All my Bikes have lived outside, and have never had issues with this procedure. And even though last winter the temps dropped down to -37C.... The Bike started up without issue in Early April with out the need for a battery tender on it.
Stay Safe.
I live in Louisiana also. I change all my fluids every 2500 miles or every 12 months. It’s cheap insurance and it gets hot and humid down here. I use vr1 conventional in the engine, valvoline 85-140 conventional gear oil in the tranny, valvoline type f atf conventional in the primary. I also use a flo reusable oil filter.
I agree with you, regular fluid changes are important, especially in hot and humid climates! Thank you for commenting! 👍 MB
Send your oil to Blackstone to determine how often you need to change it.
That's a great suggestion! Sending your oil to Blackstone can provide a clear picture of its condition and help you determine the best oil change interval based on your specific riding conditions. It’s a more personalized approach and can give you peace of mind knowing exactly when your oil needs changing. Thanks for the tip and for commenting! 😎 MB
Very interesting! Cheers mate, regards from Australia 😊
Cheers, good to hear from down under! Glad you like the video! Thank you for commenting! MB
I live in Tennessee. My first Harley (103 street Glide Ultra Limited stage 4) I traded in was air cooled with 103000 miles. Motor was clean as a whistle inside with great compression still. My second is a CVO Road Glide Ultra Limited 117 liquid cooled with 89,000 miles. For both bikes I run Mobil 1 20-50 every 5000 miles (can still read the dip-stick through the oil), my primary once a year with mobile 1 20-50 and my transmission fluid once a year with Bel=Ray 80-140 (still bright red). I average 21,000 to 25, 000 a year. Bike runs so good I just had it professionally converted to a trike rather then buying a new one. The only thing I don't do is change my oil before winter. You said it yourself, if you get the motor hot, you burn out all the condensation so there's nothing to worry about till spring if you pull it in and leave it till spring. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!! LOL!
I appreciate you sharing your experience! Sounds like you have a system that is working great for you! That’s quite a few miles you’ve put on those bikes! Thank you for commenting! 👍 MB
I run Amsoil in my trike ,cars, and lawnmowers .I change my Tri Glide all three holes once a year no matter how many miles are on it . I only have 400 miles on it in 2 years due to health issues and changed it twice. It is cheap insurance on a 41,000 dollar Trike
That’s a smart approach! Even with low mileage, changing the oil annually helps protect your investment and ensures everything stays in top shape. Thank you for commenting! 👍😎👍 MB
I spent many years working in the Merchant Marine. We never changed the oil on the larger Sulzer 6 or EMD 645 10 to 20 cylinder engines. The only time the oil was changed on those when they were torn down for overhaul. We only added oil as needed, and they held a hell of a lot of oil. We did change the filters religiously along with the turbocharger filters. The Detroit's and Caterpillars we did change at regular service hour intervals. Now my Harleys, on the other hand, from my 1949 all the way up to my 2012, I change the oil religiously at 3,000 mi. My Russian Ural Gear-Up I change at 2500.
That's a really interesting perspective from your time in the Merchant Marine. Glad you have found a system for your Harley's that works for you! Thank you for commenting! 👍 MB
Great information. Thanks!
I am glad you found it useful! Thank you for commenting!👍 MB
Live in Grand Junction, Colorado have pretty nice winters but it does get cold. I change my motor oil every 2500 miles.
That's a smart move, especially in colder climates where oil doesn't warm up as quickly! Thanks for commenting! 👍 MB
I use mobile 1 20-50 in the engine. Change every 5k, about. I also use it in the transmission. Change every 10k, about. I use harley 80 in the primary, Change every 10k, about. I live in Texas, ride year round. Traveling western and nothorthern states. What's your thoughts? Thanks for the videos
For your varied riding temps, the 20-50 is fine for the engine. I would run gear oil in the transmission, but tens of thousands run engine oil in the gearbox and never have an issue.
I do not know what Harley 80 is. In the primary I have tried a lot of different fluids. I like the syn3 in there.
Here's a video you may find interesting where we talk about different fluids in the 3 holes.
ruclips.net/video/bNHgNThrqQo/видео.html
Thank you for commenting! 👍😎👍 KP
Thank you... It's Harley-Davidson 80-140 gear oil
I just watched that video. You said you use the syn3 20-50 oil in the primary?.. And I meant 80-140, not just 80
Just remember: no filter in the trans or primary.
It’s hard for me to wrap my mind around air cooled engines can go 5000 miles between oil changes. But I’m still stuck on the Dino oil thinking.
I’m still going to do 3k mile/yearly oil changes. It’s not that expensive when I do it myself. With Texas heat, I suspect the oil is baked by 3k miles.
You're smart to prioritize what works best for your bike in your riding conditions! Yeah, it gets hot in Texas so changing every 3k miles is probably a good routine to follow. Thank you for commenting! 👍😎 MB
I use Klotz 25w60 and change every 2500 miles. It works well in the Louisiana heat.
Glad you've found a system and oil that works for you! Louisiana heat is no joke! Thank you for commenting! 👍 MB
You mentioned in minute 18:58 that "your engine doesn't warm up in 15 miles; what's the data behind that? Does time riding then becomes a better factor; let's say riding for 30 minutes...? BTW I am using Castrol part synthetic and change it every six months regardless of mikes. Used straight 50 (live in Fl.) and my mpg went down to 35!
We get that information from monitoring engine and oil temperature hundreds of times, The engine and the engine oil do not get up to full operating temps until 30 to 60 minutes of riding....depending on how one is riding and the ambient temperature. Time does matter because if you are making a lot of short rides and not getting your bike up to operating temps you are going to have condensation and that will effect the oil. Riding your bike with your oil getting too hot is also a factor in breaking down your oil. Sounds like you have a found an oil and system of changing your oil that works for you. Thank you for commenting! 😎MB
When Scott Speed talks about oil i listen. But honestly I do 3000 mile intervals, whether it's my air cooled Harleys or my diesel or my 340000 mile Toyota.
I am the same way with my car. Manual says every 6k miles, but all the cars I had before this was 3k so I will stick to 3k. Thank you for commenting! 😎👍 MB
Lake speed jr. Lol
I have always ran Amsoil and here in South Central Tx it is horrible hot. I change my oil every 3k, that said this year Im running 20-50 up until July and switching to 60W. In Nov it is still in the high 80's and 90's. Im still not a fan of the wire mesh filter but trying to come around to it. Thanks
That sounds like a solid plan for the extreme heat in South Central TX! Switching to 60W in the hotter months should help with better oil protection. Thanks for sharing your approach! Stay cool out there! 😎 MB
I pay a little more and get the TBN tested. It actually tells you the condition of the oil. So you get engine wear and oil condition checked for $30 or $40.
Sending your oil to be tested can provide a clear picture of its condition and help you determine the best oil change interval based on your specific riding conditions. It’s a more personalized approach and can give you peace of mind knowing exactly when your oil needs changing. Thanks for the tip and for commenting! 😎 MB
Hi Kevin,
Thanks for all the great videos!
Can you confirm are you recommending conventional (automotive) Castrol GTX and not the Go motorcycle version?
I have a noisy TC88 and would like to give it a try.
Thank you!
I am not recommending/nor recommending any Castrol. I mentioned that I like Castrol GTX (I like it in general, but not for HD engines) and that it was very quiet for the first 1000 miles or so, but then it broke down enough in only 1000 miles to start getting some top end clatter.
If you are having top end clatter, the Rocker Lockers at the following link may be a permanent (and less expensive) way to get rid of that clatter.
www.dkcustomproducts.com/rocker-lockers-for-harley-davidson-twin-cam-motors-dk-rl-tc.htm
Here is a fun video about oil, and what I prefer, and why I prefer what I do.
ruclips.net/video/bNHgNThrqQo/видео.html
Another thing to make sure of to avoid a noisy engine is to make sure it is running at optimum temperatures. You can see a playlist on this subject at this link- ruclips.net/p/PLb3bvZgbH92_3s-2vv63QggFJ3nteFd_C
Always feel free to email or call with any questions:
Support@DKCustomProducts.com
662-252-8828
KP
Thanks for the video little buddy!
You're very welcome! Thank you for commenting!👍 MB
I don’t care where you live or what coast you live. Always change your 3 holes every 3 thousand miles. . If you live on the east coast check the brake fluid every year for moisture.
While changing the oil every 3,000 miles is a solid routine for many riders, Changing the transmission and primary oil every 3k miles is generally unnecessary unless you're noticing performance issues. Most bikes can go longer between oil changes for these components, but regular checks are a good idea to ensure they're in good condition. Regularly checking fluids, like brake fluid, is always a good idea, especially for moisture buildup, which can affect performance. Adjusting based on your riding conditions is key to keeping everything in top shape! Thank you for commenting! 😎 MB
I use redline in my transmission and amsoil in my motor and amsoil primarily fluid in my primary I change my engine oil every 3k and the trans and primary every 5k. I recently did a 2800 mile road trip changed fluids before and after the ride. It’s a cheap price to pay to keep the bike running. I do all my own work so I save a lot of $$$$
Sounds like you are taking a proactive approach to keeping your bike running smoothly! Thank you for sharing and for commenting! 😎 MB
I don’t recall seeing straight 50w or 60w oil at the dealership. Might be because i’m not looking. But i’ve been using 10w40 in PA and I ride hard 😵💫
The dealerships should have straight 50w or 60w, but as long as your oil is lubricating, staying at or below operating temps and you are running the correct viscosity oil for the ambient temperature it is being ridden in, it doesn't not matter what oil you use! Thank you for commenting! MB
I live in Rochester ny area
Drive 70 miles round trip to work hot rod roadglide stock roadglide both carb
2012 dyna switchback stock.. except pipe and ignition 20 50 syn3 all 3 holes 5000 miles cam tensioners at 40,000 miles
All run great or did… 72 shovel 96” motor rigid straight 50 valvoline racing oil… no problem every 3000 miles
Sounds like you have found a system that works great for you. Thank you for commenting! MB
Love the videos just wish you guys wore better mics ..always have to turn my volume all the way and still can barely hear you
Glad you like the videos! I am sorry if you find the video hard to hear. We do have good mics and the audio sounds great to me. I will look into making the audio louder in the future. Thank you for your feedback and for commenting! MB
I run BG MOA oil additive my bike always run great
It is great to hear the additives are helping your bike run great! Thank you for sharing and for commenting! MB
Bought my FXSTC new in 2009
Dealer is right at 100 freeway miles to house non stop
Salesman/Tech for many years recommended
Keep speed around 60mph. Change from 6th to 5th to vary engine rpm’s
She runs great at 50k plus miles
The local dealer here had oil change special
So hey I got it changed at around 350 miles. Any metals left by factory was cleaned out early
That’s my opinion on buying any new V-Twin
Change oil early money well spent
I appreciate your perspective on oil changes and your bike's longevity! Thank you for commenting! 👍MB
Do any riders out there, ever tried putting a small amount of the marvel oil in the fuel tank for extra top end lubrication? - Thanks for oil change information...🏍️
Yes that Marvel Mystery oil is great stuff
Put it in your gas to clean and provide upper cylinder lubricant
We have not done any experimenting with that. However, hopefully others have and will chime in. Thank you for commenting! 😎 KP
@@DKCustomProducts Nope... Nada .... just the usual gas treatment additive at the end of the season. Never thought about it as my Cylinders aren't sleeved.... they are ceramic-coated aluminum pots....So the ID of the cylinders and the OD of the pistons stay consistent to each other as the engine temp varies. Any oil residual in the cylinders should stay on top of the rings and be there when the engine turns over, and be good for start up in the spring.
I am new to Harley's. I have a 06 Sportster. The previous owner was using synthetic 20W-50. Is it important to use synthetic over standard?
As long as your oil is lubricating, staying at or below operating temps and you are running the correct viscosity oil for the ambient temperature it is being ridden in, it doesn't not matter what oil you use!
Here is another video on oil that we made that you may find useful/interesting - ruclips.net/video/bNHgNThrqQo/видео.html
Thank you for commenting! MB
I tried a friend's recommendation and used Mobile 1. Road a xmas parade that I have done before and before I could get to the final turn I started to lose oil pressure due to oil breaking down "viscosity" from heat. I never had an issue in the past when I ran Bel-Ray , so the moral of this is it mobile one sucks and BelRay is the top notch. .
It sounds like you had a close call, glad you were able to get it sorted out and have found an oil that does work for you.
Here is a link to a video on 10 Low to No Cost ways to Cool Down Your Bike - ruclips.net/video/o3T3yA9BKwE/видео.html
Here is a 2 part written report on Why & How to Cool Down Your TC & M8 that you may also find interesting/useful - www.dkcustomproducts.com/why-how-to-cool-down-the-twin-cam-engine-part-i-dk-cl-tc-dn-1.htm
Part 2
www.dkcustomproducts.com/why-how-to-cool-down-your-twin-cam-engine-part-ii-dk-cl-tc-dn-2.htm
Thank you for commenting! 😎MB
My good friend had a 2006 heritage that had 120k miles on it when he traded it off in 2020 with no major work done to the bike. He used automotive valvoline at the recommended milages. He was the only owner of that bike. Changing on time may be more important than oil quality.
It's definitely good to be on top of your maintenance and change your oil regularly. Thank you for commenting! 😎 MB
Kevin I believe you are a living Harley Davidson.Now its other on RUclips but you bring passion brother when it comes down to taken care of a Harley go hard, and one more thing if there was a motorcycle oil that you could get a reliable 7000 miles out of I would call it Kevin oils
Haha, I love that! Maybe one day, 'Kevin Oil' will be a thing. 7000 miles of pure Harley passion! Thanks for the kind words and for commenting! 😎👍 MB
About 3000 miles 5000k I use penrite .. I do change primary and box oil too. Box oil in box. Primary or 15/50 penrite in primary .. on my interstate bike I run straight 50 due to a 5000 mile /8000k ride in a day . And the oil is 4 stroke mc50. And use mineral. As I change it often enough. The only bike I’m not happy with 20/50 in is my 95ci gear drive dyna. I think the gear drive works the oil a bit harder. And here in Australia my oil gets hotter than 230* on acaisions with an oil cooler. But they ar 103ci. Cammed and 10/1 comp
Thanks for sharing your experience with different oils and change intervals! 👍😎MB
i have been taking care of my fathers 18 tri glide ultra for him since he had it. i change the oil every 2000 to 2500 miles and primary and trans. every other oil change so 4 to 5k miles and it ran perfect for 100k miles to he passed away third weekend i went riding that 10 lobe oil pump and a sumping issue entire motor had to be rebuilt but heads and engine case needed replacing. Thank god was still under warrenty. I would never do 5 to 7k change dont even do that in a car im from the 70s and 2k miles i usually start thinking when i can do the oil change. Maybe i change it to often but no harm in that but the wallet some but good maintance is cheaper then a big repair bill. The oil was always syn3 for engine and primary the harley dealer sells redline for transmission after watching dk video of oils that he used in his i tried it stayed with it. My father always believed in buying the stuff from dealer incase something ever happened it be on record in comp when stuff was bought and when motor went the guy tommy the service writer had to prove oil changes where done on bike they tried to get out of the warrenty work.
I'm sorry to hear about your experience but it sounds like you were doing everything right. I am glad that you were able to get the Tri Glide fixed under warranty! Thank you for sharing your story and for commenting! 😎 MB
I do the 5000 and hd syntec. 70k miles on my 2019 Deluxe
Awesome! I am glad you have found an oil and schedule that works for you! Thank you for commenting! 😎MB
I was told to change the oil every 1,000 miles. Maybe because I live in Florida. Plus there is a difference between city driving and highway driving. If you do more city driving than highway driving, should change your oil more frequent.
City driving can definitely lead to more frequent oil changes. City riding can certainly cause the bike to run hotter and can be harder on the engine. Thank you for commenting! MB
Using Schaeffer 20x50 and changing oil in my RoadGlide and TriGlide usually at about 5000 miles. Used to run Amsoil , so far so good. What are your thoughts on oil changes if not running 5000 miles per year.
If you're not hitting 5,000 miles per year, I’d recommend changing the oil at least once a year to ensure it stays fresh and effective. Even if you're not riding as much, oil can break down over time, especially with factors like heat and moisture buildup. Thank you for commenting! 😎 MB
Probably a stupid question but if you pull your oil tank cap off for a few minutes after a ride think it might allow some of the condensation to be released?
Not a stupid question at all! Removing the oil tank cap briefly after a ride can help release some condensation, but it's best to ride your bike until fully warmed up to allow moisture to evaporate properly. Thank you for commenting! 😎👍 MB
Good info. I didn't know about runnin straight 50 if you ride in over 60 mostly. Off topic what is the best highflow air filter DK sells for a 107 m8? I don't care about looks?
All of our Air Cleaners work the same.
Our most popular for touring model bikes are the 606 seen at this link - www.dkcustomproducts.com/twin-cam-model-hiflow-606-air-cleaners-complete-systems-c643-298.htm
or
the 828 seen at this link - www.dkcustomproducts.com/twin-cam-outlaw-hiflow-828-air-cleaner-complete-systems-99.htm
Either one will give you more than enough air for your bike.
Here is a report that may help you make the best decision on which air cleaner you want for your bike and riding - www.dkcustomproducts.com/differences-between-outlaw-hiflow-air-cleaner-systems-dk-faq-acs.htm
Please feel free to contact us with any questions or concerns:
Support@DKCustomProducts.com
662-252-8828
Thank you for commenting! 😎 MB
I have experienced bad results running synthetic oil in my Harley. Therefore I run conventional HD 360 but change it every 2,000 miles. I run synthetic in every other engine I own but these are plain bearing engines. Synthetic oil is already broken down in the manufacturing process making the molecules all the same size, but smaller. Great for plain bearing engines but not Harley roller bearing engines. I was a Manufacturing Engineer at 3 engine plants including Harley. 4 master techs and engineers agree with my analysis. Even Amsoil did not dispute my claim. With all that said, why people will spend the extra money for synthetic and get cheap about regular oil change intervals is beyond me. Folks will spend $100 or more on a night out and think nothing about it but get cheap about this? Some folks treat their Harley like a Ferrari when in reality they are still an old line push rod twin. All oils will become contaminated and essentially wear out. Nothing is forever!
I appreciate you sharing your insight and expertise! It’s important to choose the right oil and follow proper maintenance for your bike! Thank you for commenting! 👍 MB
and nobody talks about M8 piston jet sprayers clogging up due to contaminated oil that should have been changed more frequently
I hope dewan is ok haven't seen him in a while
Dwayne no longer works with us. He moved on to other passions, but he is doing well and I will tell him he is missed! Thank you for commenting! 😎👍 MB
What’s a good performance oil filter ? I have a 2011 FLHR.
We use the Permanent High Performance Oil Filters. You can see video on it at them link - ruclips.net/video/__WbuX1IT1c/видео.html
You can see the Filter at this link - www.dkcustomproducts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=permanent+oil+filter
Thank you for commenting! MB
@ thanks!
You are most welcome! MB
Fortnine ran a test on those fancy filters. Unless you have the capacity to actually test, I will stick with the proven and reliable paper filter (the winner) and continue to keep to my schedule of 5k on all holes.
Peace!
Thank you for sharing your perspective! It is important to do what works for you. 👍 MB
I had the oil on my 2014 ultra classic analyzed at 5000…..7500……and 10,000 miles. The oil (Amsoil) showed that it was actually still good. That’s having it professionally analyzed. I started changing it at 7500 just because I don’t always ride the same.
Thanks for sharing your experience! It's great to hear that your oil analysis showed good results. Your bike must be running at great temps! Thank you for commenting! MB
I run 20/50 year round and change between 3,000 and 3,500 on both my twin cams. Run straight 50 or 60 on my shovelhead.
Glad you have found a system that works for you! Thank you for sharing and for commenting! 😎MB
Oil changes are Cheap ! Cheap insurance that your engine can keep running for a long time. It's not about how good the oil is, it's about contamination and viscosity breakdown. If you keep the oil clean and uncontaminated you might get 5-6 thousand miles between oil changes. However, oil changes are cheap and oil filters are not designed to keep your oil clean for 10,000 miles despite what they claim. It is virtually impossible to keep the oil clean unless you have a separate filter unit like the Amzoil bypass filter. Run the oil viscosity recommended by the manufacturer and do not add any additives to that oil. Valvoline is my go to oil for any of my vehicles.
Great point! Regular oil changes are definitely a cost-effective way to protect your engine. I agree that keeping the oil clean is key, and sticking to the manufacturer's recommended viscosity is important for long engine life. Thank you for sharing and for commenting! MB
even expensive oils are cheap compared to an engine, primary or transmission. I use Amsoil and I still change all three components every 3000 miles. I find it to be cheap insurance.
That is a great way to look at it, preventative maintenance is always the best approach! Thank you for commenting! 👍😎 MB
I have 1hr commute and my oil never gets over 200 degrees, often never getting over 190, with ultra cool cooler and flo oil filter. I still try to never go over 3000 miles between changing. 07 road king classic
Keeping the oil temperature in check is key to engine health, and changing the oil every 3,000 miles, even with low temperatures, is a solid preventative measure. Sounds like your Road King Classic is in good hands! Thank you for commenting! 👍 MB
@@DKCustomProducts I should also add that my original engine took a huge dump after 52,000 miles of always running hot as hell. It was rebuilt with 107 big bore, high flow pump, woods 777 cams, true dual exhaust, and oil cooler. I don't know the exact temp it was reaching as stock, but I'm willing to bet it spent a lot of time over 230. It was trashed inside.
@jeffdent4619, what ambient temps are you riding in, that your oil won't go > 190 in a 1 hr. ride? I was skeptical of the video's claim that 15 miles wasn't sufficient to reach operating temp., but 1 hr? Just curious.
@joekubesch8558 60 degree mornings oil won't go above 190. Cooler mornings it won't even hit 190. I need the cover for my oil cooler in cold temps. On a 90 degree day the fans won't even kick on as long as I'm on the highway. Even in stop and go traffic 210 is the highest temp I've seen.
So changing the oil every 5k is good. Is there any benefit to changing the trans and primary oil every 5k or is that wasting money?
Changing the transmission and primary oil every 5k miles is generally unnecessary unless specified by the manufacturer or if you're noticing performance issues. Most bikes can go longer between oil changes for these components, but regular checks are a good idea to ensure they're in good condition. Thank you for commenting! 😎 MB
Last time I ordered oil, I accidentally ordered 20w60 (redline synthetic) other than potential cold weather starts, do you see any issue running this ? Every 3 holes 5k
It is optimum to use the viscosity oil recommended by HD, as shown in the video.
However, as long as you are not riding in very cold temps (below 40 F), the oil you got will lubricate fine. Thank you for commenting! 👍KP
I’m out here in southern California heat and I change ave 2500 miles max 3k. I’v rebuilt to many engines car n bike. Not taking the chances.
I hear you! I’d much rather focus on maintenance than deal with a full engine rebuild. Thanks for commenting! 👍 MB
I change all 3 oils nearly every time. At least I change the oil and primary every 3000, the transmission every other change.
Sounds like a solid plan! Thank you for sharing and for commenting! 😎 MB
The Thought of 15 K miles on (ANY ) Engine Oil Change to save an $ 150 - 300 on 3 Oil changes to only spend 5 k +++ way up on another Replacement Engine is totally ridiculous might add Amsoil sin 2050 or 50 - 60 st wt here in middle GA it get hot here lot 80 - 90 + days & rarely under 30 degrees for more than a few weeks total
I hear you about those scorching days in Georgia. I'm glad you're taking preventative measures and always paying attention to your engine. Yeah, shorter interval oil changes is much less expensive than replacing an engine. Thank you for commenting! MB
I run Mobil 1 20-50. I change every 3-4k my twin cam 88 gets very hot.
Glad you have a system that is working for you! Thank you for commenting! 😎👍 MB
I got work done to my bike and the mechanic put full synthetic oil in the engine, when harley recoments 60 weight where I am in midwest Australia and our sumer can get to 50c and always over 27c, Why would he put synthetic in a 2007 ultra? oh and the engine is a heap louder'
There is a straight 60w synthetic oil. I can not speak for why your mechanic would put that oil in your bike, but if the engine is noticeably louder, and you do not feel like it is the best oil for your bike you may look into a better oil and change it. Thank you for commenting! 👍MB
Does matter how good the oil is, it's the matter of water contamination, mainly from internal condensation. Water is the biggest problem.
You're absolutely right that water contamination, especially from internal condensation, is a major issue. However, heat also plays a significant role in oil breakdown, as it can cause the additives to degrade and accelerate contamination. Both heat and moisture can impact the oil's effectiveness, which is why regular oil changes and proper maintenance are crucial. Thank you for commenting!👍 MB
I watch Scottie to Kevin. But I wish they had a oil that you could get a reliable 7,000 mile before change, it seems that 3000 miles comes fast and I change my own oil
Yeah, that would be nice. We change our on oil too and it does come way to often. lol Thank you for commenting! 👍MB
To true oil cheaper then rebuild i run synthetic in my turbo shovelhead 20w60 as daily ride it in city open highway in Australia heat aslo good to get ya oil hot sometimes to burn out the contaminants
I hear you! It's always a good idea to heat up the engine and burn out those contaminants.
Thank you for commenting! 😎 MB
My old Kawasaki Vulcan manual said to change every 7000 miles, I still did it at no more than 5000.
I am glad that you have a system that is working for you and your bike! Thank you for commenting! 👍MB
Especially on any air cooled motor you are nuts going more than 3K miles if you plan on keeping that bike for any length of time .
These motorcycle oils reach 250-300 degrees during their life !
Great point! Oil temps are definitely something to be aware of, and changing your oil more frequently can definitely help keep your engine running smoothly for years to come! That's why we put so much focus on cooling your engine and oil. Thanks for commenting. MB😎
EPA pushing manufacturers to limit environmental impact for credits. Designed obsolescence in modern vehicles.
You make a valid point. The push for environmental regulations does influence vehicle design, and some aspects of modern vehicles may seem focused on limiting environmental impact, sometimes at the cost of longevity. Thank you for commenting! 😎 MB
I normally ride about 3000 mi. or less a year, so I change the oil every year. Even if it's only 2000 mi or less.
That's a great practice, especially since you're not racking up high mileage. Thank you for commenting!👍😎 MB
amsoil only change every 5 thou miles with an oil cooler never had a problem. thru all seasons never had an engine problem 40 years riding
It sounds like you've found a system that works for you! Thank you for commenting! 😎 MB
Kevin love your videos! Please check out the Motor Oil geek guys video on reusable oil filters! Very interesting!
I’ll be sure to check it out, thanks for the recommendation! 👍 MB
I run amsoil now .15 -60 vtwin . Oil pressure way better
Glad to hear you're seeing positive results with your oil choice! Thank you for commenting! 😎👍 MB
@@DKCustomProducts lots less heat
Great to hear! MB
On my harley I change all 3hole every 3000 mile and my oil filter every 1500 mile
Sounds like you have a system that is working for you. Thank you for commenting! MB
Mine's so bad, I fill the oil and check the petrol before every ride :(
That sounds frustrating! If you're having persistent issues, it might be worth checking for leaks or other maintenance needs. Hopefully, things smooth out for you soon!
If you are wanting to check the health of your motor or see if you have a real issue doing a Leak Down Test or Compression Test will give you answers.
Here is a video on Compression vs Leak Down that you may find interesting - ruclips.net/video/uIDxZdRB1kA/видео.html
Thank you for commenting! 😎MB
Running with cats in the exhaust has to be cooking the oil and the engines. Gotta run straight 60 weight oil all the time.
Removing the CAT will not decrease engine heat very much, but it will reduce Felt heat tremendously.
Here is a report on Why and How to Cool Down a TC & M8 that you may find interesting/useful if you are worried about your bike running hot - www.dkcustomproducts.com/why-how-to-cool-down-your-twin-cam-engine-part-ii-dk-cl-tc-dn-2.htm
Thank you for commenting! MB
Oil threads are like,”How many licks does it take to get to the tootsie roll center of a tootsie roll pop?”
I don’t know…Ask Mr. Owl…😂
My Harley: Syn3 20-50w first 20,000 miles every 2500. After20,000 every 5000.
63,000 miles of smiles
My 49 yr.old Yamaha every 2000 miles 20-50 regular Spectro 4. 72,000 miles of smiles
My 14 yr. Old Ural: Every 1,550. miles regular 20-50 Spectro 4 .
71,000 miles of smiles.
Life is good….
It’s great to hear you’re getting so many miles out of your bikes! Sounds like you’ve found a maintenance schedule that works for you. Wishing you many more miles of smiles! Thank you for commenting! 😎 👍 MB
I have a very stupid friend who insists that, because he had to add a quart of oil a month he never has to change his oil.
That’s an interesting perspective, but unfortunately, adding oil doesn’t replace the need for regular oil changes. Over time, oil breaks down and loses its effectiveness, even if it’s topped off. Regular oil changes help keep the engine running smoothly and protect it from wear. It might be worth having a conversation with your friend about the importance of oil changes! Thank you for commenting! MB
I change oil every 3000 if I end up riding in a 90 degree day I will come home and change just the oil then do the filter at 3000
Sounds like you are taking a proactive approach for the longevity of your motor. Glad you have found a system that works for you! Thank you for commenting!😎 MB
Heat is the enemy. No matter what the oil is, heat breaks down the additives. Harleys get hotter than most due to being air cooled.
You're absolutely right! Heat is a major factor in breaking down the additives in oil. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, and thank you for commenting! 👍 MB
I’m in the SF bay area and it’s always between 50-70 . All year long
That's awesome! The mild climate in the SF Bay Area must make riding year-round pretty enjoyable. Thank you for commenting! MB
I have access to low cost oil analysis since August with my new job(catapillar)I have been using 20w50 motul 7100 in a new bike since june(Suzuki 800de) at 5000km sample its sheered to a 10w40, at 7000km end of season change, still a 10w40 and wear metals are low. I'll have to start sampling my 2000 95" fxdwg. And i might change to putting amsoil 20w50 in everything and see what the lab says about that oil.
Absolutely do not run a metal screen reusable filter.... this is trash advice!
Thanks for your comment. Very nice that you have access to that low cost analysis. Interesting that the viscosity modifiers has already broken down at 5000km. Curious why you kept running it when it had dropped in viscosity rating?
Also an interesting comment about a metal screen reusable filter. Not sure what you are referring to.
We have used Performance, Reusable Oil Filters, as seen at the link below, for almost 2 decades. We also have hundreds of Customers that have used them for millions of miles. Never had a single report of anyone using them that has had any trouble. I personally have close to half a million miles on one of them and have had no issues with it, or any of the engines it has run on.
Perhaps you are talking about something different, the one at this link uses a stainless-steel micronic cloth, not a metal screen. www.dkcustomproducts.com/outlaw-high-performance-cleanable-oil-filter-in-polished-finish-dk-ocof-crm.htm
KP
You can leave your oil in as long as you like, but guess what? Whatever happens is on you! For example, you can buy automotive oil that says it’s good for 15,000 km but if you look in your owners manual, it will tell you that that is too long of an interval so whatever happens to your engine is on you. Oil is cheap engines are not. Why Take a chance and push the limits with your engine oil. It does not make any sense to me. Also the oil in an air cool engine is working harder and is going to break down faster compared to something that is liquid cooled especially if you live in a hot climate.
It’s important to be proactive about maintenance, especially when it comes to something as important as your engine. Thank you for commenting! 😎 MB
@ yes ! As a mechanic I know better ! If anything I change my oils early and run AMSOIL in my Harleys 😎
If one has common sence, or growen olderand aquiredsomeknolage thru resurch.
You're absolutely right! Knowledge gained through research and experience goes a long way in understanding maintenance and care. It’s always good to stay informed and make decisions based on both experience and reliable information. Thank you for commenting! 😎MB