Just Beautiful, as always Mark. You make it look so smooth and easy!! Always impressive. You've got a regular airplane factory there! What's next, a New RV-15?? Lol
Hey Mark, I am about to start priming my fuselage, and I am prepping it, wondering about the rivets…or future rivets. Around the window reinforcement strips…just wondering if you have a fancy trick for painting the rivets after you put the window in or if you just plan on having a few unpainted rivets around the window (which is the only alternative I can think of at this point). Also, you’re the MAN. I don’t think I’d be doing this, at least with as much clarity or confidence that I can figure it out (with some trial and error, probably) without your videos and recommendations. Thank you for taking the time to share. We have such an awesome community of fellow builders, and you and our community are what is inspiring me to share my build, and little things I learn along the way, with others. Thanks for being a leader Mark.
There's a few ways you can do this. You can rivet in the windows before paint, and then mask off the windows and then you'll have painted rivets. This is what I did on my Cruzer. Secondly, you can rivet the windows after paint and then either have unpainted rivets or you can touch up the rivets with a small brush. Finally, you can do what I'll be doing on my SD - install the windows after paint and use black rivets! Double check the size you need but here's a link below. Keep in mind these are NOT structural rivets but will work great for things like windows. www.amazon.com/dp/B08KXJ1P7H?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I’m finishing a one-off scratch built carbon fiber cowl set for a Skystar Pulsar III. Was wondering how much I would have to spend on a primer, paint and clear gun. Also wondering if I should use epoxy primer. Your shared experience proves helpful once again. Thanks brother 😎🎩♠️💙
Great video. I have what’s probably a stupid question, but, would it be possible, practical to prime and paint the entire airplane prior to assembly? It seems there are very few parts which are bent during assembly.
I think what you are asking is if you could prime and paint for example a side skin, and then rivet it together. Here would be my problem with doing that-you would be riveting painted pieces. What happens after a while if the paint breaks down under the rivet? Then the rivets would become loose. I'm not sure if this would happen, but that's what I would worry about. I've never heard of anyone ever painting skins and then riveting them together. But I've never done any scientific testing to give you a definite "no".
Are you putting a primer surfacer (like a 2k primer) over the epoxy or just scuffing it and laying paint? Real curious because I've always done 2k over epoxy as a build layer and blocked it back.
G, day Mark from Sydney Australia. When you "blow, tac and static" (Robby Laten Automotive body shop UTAR) doesn't it blow up a 'dust cloud' around the workpiece, giving more particles in the air to fall onto the surface? With veneer boards, I would do the cleaning away from the spray booth. 🌏🛩️
Noticed there is some snow outside and you're wearing a hat. What do you think the temperature is inside your hangar? I am debating how long to wait this season to paint.
I keep my hangar at 68 degrees and bump it up to 70 when I paint. I pretty much wear a hat 24/7 from about September to May! Not enough hair up there to keep me warm! Lol
Hey Mark. Question: when you read the pressure at the spray gun do you have the trigger pulled as if you were painting?…as in operating pressure? Thanks.
How does the tarp situation work for the booth?? I thought I was going to have to build one or get an inflatable paint booth…I know this isn’t your first rodeo either. What would you recommend?
It works well for me but obviously the closer you can get to a full professional booth the better. (less chance of dust and better airflow and removal).
For the cabin interior, are you going to apply a finish coat such as JetFlex over the primer? I notice SPI says their epoxy primer does have some UV inhibitor so maybe you feel that's enough.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast the tech doc for SPI epoxy primer says no acid etch needed but then turns around and says to use 80 DA sandpaper before applying. yikes. How are you prepping the alclad aluminum pieces before applying the primer and have you done something like a tape pull test to ensure it's really sticking? Also, did you get ever find a direct statement from the manufacturer on the solvent/gas resistance of this primer as is (ie, bare application without applying a paint top coat)?
I just watched this a second time and caught a detail I missed on first watch. You are thinning the epoxy primer 25% (I assume this helps with fact that your spray gun has a small, 1.5 nozzle). What did you use as a thinner?
ok im dumb. gimme a like if you thought it was a plastic model kit and not a real plane.. watched it all just to atone for being stupid.. look very nice
Just Beautiful, as always Mark. You make it look so smooth and easy!! Always impressive. You've got a regular airplane factory there! What's next, a New RV-15?? Lol
Your doing a great job on the paint, Mark. Thanks for sharing.
lookin great Mark!
Beautiful work!
Looks fantastic!
The paint system provides an even, durable, corrosion resistant, colorful finish, several mils thick.❤
Hey Mark, I am about to start priming my fuselage, and I am prepping it, wondering about the rivets…or future rivets. Around the window reinforcement strips…just wondering if you have a fancy trick for painting the rivets after you put the window in or if you just plan on having a few unpainted rivets around the window (which is the only alternative I can think of at this point).
Also, you’re the MAN. I don’t think I’d be doing this, at least with as much clarity or confidence that I can figure it out (with some trial and error, probably) without your videos and recommendations. Thank you for taking the time to share. We have such an awesome community of fellow builders, and you and our community are what is inspiring me to share my build, and little things I learn along the way, with others. Thanks for being a leader Mark.
There's a few ways you can do this. You can rivet in the windows before paint, and then mask off the windows and then you'll have painted rivets. This is what I did on my Cruzer. Secondly, you can rivet the windows after paint and then either have unpainted rivets or you can touch up the rivets with a small brush. Finally, you can do what I'll be doing on my SD - install the windows after paint and use black rivets! Double check the size you need but here's a link below. Keep in mind these are NOT structural rivets but will work great for things like windows.
www.amazon.com/dp/B08KXJ1P7H?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
@@KitplaneEnthusiast thank you thank you
I’m finishing a one-off scratch built carbon fiber cowl set for a Skystar Pulsar III. Was wondering how much I would have to spend on a primer, paint and clear gun. Also wondering if I should use epoxy primer. Your shared experience proves helpful once again. Thanks brother
😎🎩♠️💙
Great video. I have what’s probably a stupid question, but, would it be possible, practical to prime and paint the entire airplane prior to assembly? It seems there are very few parts which are bent during assembly.
I think what you are asking is if you could prime and paint for example a side skin, and then rivet it together. Here would be my problem with doing that-you would be riveting painted pieces. What happens after a while if the paint breaks down under the rivet? Then the rivets would become loose. I'm not sure if this would happen, but that's what I would worry about. I've never heard of anyone ever painting skins and then riveting them together. But I've never done any scientific testing to give you a definite "no".
Are you putting a primer surfacer (like a 2k primer) over the epoxy or just scuffing it and laying paint? Real curious because I've always done 2k over epoxy as a build layer and blocked it back.
No, I let the primer cure, then scuff it with a Scotbright pad, and paint!
G, day Mark from Sydney Australia.
When you "blow, tac and static" (Robby Laten Automotive body shop UTAR) doesn't it blow up a 'dust cloud' around the workpiece, giving more particles in the air to fall onto the surface?
With veneer boards, I would do the cleaning away from the spray booth.
🌏🛩️
Noticed there is some snow outside and you're wearing a hat. What do you think the temperature is inside your hangar? I am debating how long to wait this season to paint.
I keep my hangar at 68 degrees and bump it up to 70 when I paint. I pretty much wear a hat 24/7 from about September to May! Not enough hair up there to keep me warm! Lol
How much primer do you think i need to paint cherokee 140?
Hey Mark.
Question: when you read the pressure at the spray gun do you have the trigger pulled as if you were painting?…as in operating pressure?
Thanks.
Yes.
How does the tarp situation work for the booth?? I thought I was going to have to build one or get an inflatable paint booth…I know this isn’t your first rodeo either. What would you recommend?
It works well for me but obviously the closer you can get to a full professional booth the better. (less chance of dust and better airflow and removal).
How thick should my primer be?
For the cabin interior, are you going to apply a finish coat such as JetFlex over the primer? I notice SPI says their epoxy primer does have some UV inhibitor so maybe you feel that's enough.
What you are seeing in the cabin interior is not primer, it is top coat paint.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast what are you using for the interior top coat? Are you applying it while the SPI is still drying?
@@luckymacy top coat is UTech U500. No the SPI epoxy primer is cured and scuffed before top coat is sprayed.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast the tech doc for SPI epoxy primer says no acid etch needed but then turns around and says to use 80 DA sandpaper before applying. yikes. How are you prepping the alclad aluminum pieces before applying the primer and have you done something like a tape pull test to ensure it's really sticking? Also, did you get ever find a direct statement from the manufacturer on the solvent/gas resistance of this primer as is (ie, bare application without applying a paint top coat)?
I just watched this a second time and caught a detail I missed on first watch. You are thinning the epoxy primer 25% (I assume this helps with fact that your spray gun has a small, 1.5 nozzle). What did you use as a thinner?
Use the reducer/thinner from SPI.
Funny. Amazon ad says 44 lbs. Working pressure.
Yes I know. That’s way too high.
It’s sounds that Gordon should get paid for keeping your plane in his hanger
I fully expect Gordon to pay me a mo they fee just for the honor of having the Blue Angels Cruzer in his hangar! I’m sure he will come to his senses.
ok im dumb. gimme a like if you thought it was a plastic model kit and not a real plane..
watched it all just to atone for being stupid..
look very nice
I see a second career for you as a painter...