What you have shown in this video should significantly help all future builders who will be doing what you did with wig-wags/marker lights. Your tips are invaluable. Thanks.
My CH750 - suggestion. I had a wire from my wigwag come out on the inboard side of the Slat mount, with a connector. I had the power supply come out of the wing in the same place, with a connector. The connection is made and tie wrapped to the slat attachment, inboard, and out of sight.
That is why we in networking, always put in a service loop on new wire runs just in case you run into your slat light issue. Keep up the good work your plane is outstanding.
Just in case you ever changed your mind and would like to make the slat lights adjustable, you could drill a small hole in the lens over each adjustment screw head just big enough to accommodate a screwdriver shaft. You could then plug the small holes with rubber plugs (look like a grommet but doesn't have a hole in the center). The plugs wouldn't obstruct or affect the lights at all since the screws are not in the "line of sight" of the light pattern. It's one of those things that would be easier to do now rather than later.
Hello Mark, another great video. 👍 We are currently in the process of building the right wing of our 701 and have the exact same kit from Zenith/AERO LED for the landing lights. We had already thought a lot about how best to connect the landing lights so that we could easily remove the slats. Your idea with the rear access and the cover is very clever! 👍 We'll probably do it that way.
You might want to secure those connectors with tie wrap that are in the slat. the weight of the 2 connectors slinging around in the moving surface may be enough to fatigue the wire.
If the connector inside the wing will be considered a permanent installation, then it will be most reliable if you delete the connector and simply extend the cable by splicing an extension, then use the second method shown in the video to connect to the light pigtail. It's not a great idea to have connectors in places that are not accessible. If there's corrosion between a pin/socket, or a terminal backs out of a connector housing, it becomes a nightmare to fix.
How did you cut the access holes? They look perfect. Are you worried about water finding its way around the lens, or did you seal them somehow? Looking reaaly nice.
I draw a box, then use a step-drill (or unibit) to drill about a 1/2" hole in each corner. Then I use a Dremel with a thin grinding wheel to connect the dots! Then clean it up with a file and sandpaper. I have shown this procedure before in other videos, but I have no idea which video. Maybe look back at the older Cruzer build videos.
I've been watching these STOL competitions and it makes me want to see the Super Duty fly. Not to think it was meant to compete at the highest level but still anxious to get it in the air. As I watch these shows it seems they are making planes that are more specific to the competition. They are planes not likely to be used for much else. I don't know much about the STOL competitions but it seems to me they ought to have competitions based on plane characteristics. If someone wants to compete with a plane that's a little heavier or more suited to daily flight they should have a class for that. They may have it and I am just not aware of it. I do know that at least one pilot was lost recently by flying a plane not well suited to the demonstration they were flying. If I had a Super Duty I would like to compete but I would also like to use all the pleasantries of the plane.
I've always thought that I'd like to do the competitions but ONLY for fun. I literally would not care if I finished in last place. I think the competitions would be a great way meet some pretty awesome people.
National Stol does have different classes. Touring class sees stock 150's and 182's along with an occasional low wing Piper. Viking won 1st place in one of the unlimited class events with a modified Super Duty.
Hello Mark. What impact does the trailing length of wire between the wing and the slat have on the fit of the slat to the wing when closed? It would seem that the wire will be trapped between the two surfaces and might cause the outer end of each slat to look slightly distorted when closed, also how are you dealing with the wires at the point they emerge from the wing and slat to avoid chafing and possibility of excessive bend radius?
The slats on the Zenith airplanes are fixed in position. So, they do not slide in and out. The wires will have a rubber grommet where they exit the slat and the wing.
That is true. But the lens is sandwiched between the light frame and the inside of the skin so the only way to remove the lens is to drill out all 16 rivets holding the frame in! I k ow this because I had to do it! I noticed the large screw on the top that adjusts the light was poking on the lens, which would eventually lead to the lens cracking. So I removed the rib, drilled out all the rivets, and removed the plastic washer I had behind the screw! Really the o lot was to get to the light to adjust it is to mount the lens on the outside of the slat.
I formed it over the outside of the slat. The material is so thin that it's not going to be any different if you formed it inside or outside the skin. And forming it on the inside would be pretty difficult to do.
They are fixed in place. I know people with 701's and 750 STOL's have flown without the slats, but I haven't of any one taking them off the Super Duty. I've heard those people can gain and extra 10 mph without the slats.
I don't know. I installed a switch in the panel for a landing light because I thought I could put one in the cowl. At this point in the project I just want it done so I may skip the landing light for now. I don't fly at night anyway so I really don't need it.
They are Molex connectors and they do come with the AeroLED lights. You can also buy them on Amazon. A lot of people give me grief about these connectors, but in 20+ years I've never had one break, come disconnected, or fail. I have no issue using them.
What you have shown in this video should significantly help all future builders who will be doing what you did with wig-wags/marker lights. Your tips are invaluable. Thanks.
My CH750 - suggestion. I had a wire from my wigwag come out on the inboard side of the Slat mount, with a connector. I had the power supply come out of the wing in the same place, with a connector. The connection is made and tie wrapped to the slat attachment, inboard, and out of sight.
I wondered about a wire " free floating" between wing and slat over time. You approach seems better.
That is why we in networking, always put in a service loop on new wire runs just in case you run into your slat light issue. Keep up the good work your plane is outstanding.
NOW you tell me! LOL
Enjoy amount of detail items are explained. Thanks
Looks great! I'd be tempted to fly it right now if it wasn't 10 degrees outside.
Just in case you ever changed your mind and would like to make the slat lights adjustable, you could drill a small hole in the lens over each adjustment screw head just big enough to accommodate a screwdriver shaft. You could then plug the small holes with rubber plugs (look like a grommet but doesn't have a hole in the center). The plugs wouldn't obstruct or affect the lights at all since the screws are not in the "line of sight" of the light pattern. It's one of those things that would be easier to do now rather than later.
Mark!! What did I just see on Barnstormers!? It can't be true!!! 🤯
Hello Mark, another great video. 👍
We are currently in the process of building the right wing of our 701 and have the exact same kit from Zenith/AERO LED for the landing lights.
We had already thought a lot about how best to connect the landing lights so that we could easily remove the slats.
Your idea with the rear access and the cover is very clever! 👍
We'll probably do it that way.
Great video! Aside from adjustability of the lights; what about maintenance of the lights? Are we talking drilling rivets to change an L.E.D.?
Looking forward to seeing how the slats are going to be finished. ?Green or more checkers.
What's wrong with pink with purple polka-dots??
Now that would draw some attention for sure!
@@KitplaneEnthusiast
You might want to secure those connectors with tie wrap that are in the slat. the weight of the 2 connectors slinging around in the moving surface may be enough to fatigue the wire.
Sounds like Gordon should get paid for all the work he’s done
If Gordon paid me for all the damage he's done over here I could finance a whole new airplane!
If the connector inside the wing will be considered a permanent installation, then it will be most reliable if you delete the connector and simply extend the cable by splicing an extension, then use the second method shown in the video to connect to the light pigtail. It's not a great idea to have connectors in places that are not accessible. If there's corrosion between a pin/socket, or a terminal backs out of a connector housing, it becomes a nightmare to fix.
How did you cut the access holes? They look perfect. Are you worried about water finding its way around the lens, or did you seal them somehow? Looking reaaly nice.
I draw a box, then use a step-drill (or unibit) to drill about a 1/2" hole in each corner. Then I use a Dremel with a thin grinding wheel to connect the dots! Then clean it up with a file and sandpaper. I have shown this procedure before in other videos, but I have no idea which video. Maybe look back at the older Cruzer build videos.
I've been watching these STOL competitions and it makes me want to see the Super Duty fly. Not to think it was meant to compete at the highest level but still anxious to get it in the air. As I watch these shows it seems they are making planes that are more specific to the competition. They are planes not likely to be used for much else. I don't know much about the STOL competitions but it seems to me they ought to have competitions based on plane characteristics. If someone wants to compete with a plane that's a little heavier or more suited to daily flight they should have a class for that. They may have it and I am just not aware of it. I do know that at least one pilot was lost recently by flying a plane not well suited to the demonstration they were flying. If I had a Super Duty I would like to compete but I would also like to use all the pleasantries of the plane.
I've always thought that I'd like to do the competitions but ONLY for fun. I literally would not care if I finished in last place. I think the competitions would be a great way meet some pretty awesome people.
National Stol does have different classes. Touring class sees stock 150's and 182's along with an occasional low wing Piper. Viking won 1st place in one of the unlimited class events with a modified Super Duty.
Hello Mark. What impact does the trailing length of wire between the wing and the slat have on the fit of the slat to the wing when closed? It would seem that the wire will be trapped between the two surfaces and might cause the outer end of each slat to look slightly distorted when closed, also how are you dealing with the wires at the point they emerge from the wing and slat to avoid chafing and possibility of excessive bend radius?
The slats on the Zenith airplanes are fixed in position. So, they do not slide in and out. The wires will have a rubber grommet where they exit the slat and the wing.
on that outside rib in the slat, could you have put nut plates on the rib and attached it with screws? Then it would be removable.
That is true. But the lens is sandwiched between the light frame and the inside of the skin so the only way to remove the lens is to drill out all 16 rivets holding the frame in! I k ow this because I had to do it! I noticed the large screw on the top that adjusts the light was poking on the lens, which would eventually lead to the lens cracking. So I removed the rib, drilled out all the rivets, and removed the plastic washer I had behind the screw! Really the o lot was to get to the light to adjust it is to mount the lens on the outside of the slat.
did you form the clear lens cover by forming it on the outside or inside the slat?
I formed it over the outside of the slat. The material is so thin that it's not going to be any different if you formed it inside or outside the skin. And forming it on the inside would be pretty difficult to do.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Thank you very much.
So the slat are fixed? Don’t move on how slow or fast you’re going. So if on a long flight you could take them off?
They are fixed in place. I know people with 701's and 750 STOL's have flown without the slats, but I haven't of any one taking them off the Super Duty. I've heard those people can gain and extra 10 mph without the slats.
Will you have a landing light as well as the recon. lights?
I don't know. I installed a switch in the panel for a landing light because I thought I could put one in the cowl. At this point in the project I just want it done so I may skip the landing light for now. I don't fly at night anyway so I really don't need it.
Are the connectors from Aero LED's or are they just a generic connector from A/C Spruce? I have to order some.
They are Molex connectors and they do come with the AeroLED lights. You can also buy them on Amazon. A lot of people give me grief about these connectors, but in 20+ years I've never had one break, come disconnected, or fail. I have no issue using them.
Is there any sealant on the lens?
Sealant goes on after paint.
Just use Bluetooth wire 😂