Your garage looks a lot like mine haha, stuff EVERYWHERE. I get it man, I have 20 projects going all at once too. Good video by the way, straight forward and easy to understand.
Lol, that’s what separates the real mechanic’s from the posers lol 😂. Seriously though, yeah I been cleaning it up here and there which eventually I’d like to build me a garage to my liking on some land at some point, but I hear ya man. Thanks for the comment and thank you for watching, glad it was helpful to you.
did this on my '77 tbird after i rebuilt the 351w to make 425hp. Put a 2500 stall Hughes converter in and needed to firm up the shifts so make sure i dont smoke the bands now that the engine make 3 times the power
Very nice, cool car too! You don’t see those old T Birds anymore. You can also tighten the band some as well so it doesn’t have to travel as far to fully engage either, that’ll give you a nice firm shift. I did this in my 76 ford truck, made a world of difference. The factory setting is large and they did this for a smoother shift for the average person but they slide into gear like that so righting the band some takes that slag out of it. Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching.
New subscriber here. Thanks for creating & sharing this vid. I just had the transmission rebuilt on my daughter's 66 mustang 6 cylinder. The transmission seems to be working fine but shifts from first to second before I can get some decent rms and catch speed. If I turn the screw in the modulator to the right will this allow for a longer period before the shift? Trying to pick up speed after it shifted into second is rather slow in doing so. Also, being that its a straight 6 with the one barrel doesn't help with acceleration. Any tips/advice/pointers would be greatly appreciated!
That’s great! Welcome, and Thank you for being a supporter. You’re welcome, glad to help. Yes turning the modulator in, or to the right will hold each gear longer, which will delay shifts longer. Yeah those little 6 cylinder’s for cars aren’t very powerful at all, I don’t believe you have any Perth vacuum because that would generally cause later harder shifts. With that being a rebuilt transmission, it probably just needs tuning on the modulator, so I’d turn it in 1/4-1/2 turn at first and drive it and see what changes. As you turn it in it should get later on shifts so just keep turning it in a 1/4 turn at a time until you get desired shift points. It can be tedious but the end result will be worth it. Good luck and I hope this helps. If you have any other questions feel free to ask. Also very nice car, thanks for watching.
Thank you for the video. I have the FMX and it goes and drives in reverse just fine and has a hard stumble in all forward gears. Has a new modulator on it. Does it need to be adjusted upon installation?
You’re welcome, yes, sometimes they do. I would also recommend checking and making sure the fluid level is correct and also make sure you have no vacuum leaks, hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Yes absolutely it can, it can delay the shift by a lot and if you get on it alittle and let off the gas then generally it’ll shift then and it’ll shift hard because it’s shifting based of fluid pressure only. Also the motor will probably run a little rough if the line pops off because it’ll have a vacuum leak. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Yeah, so some of the factory original modulators didn’t have a screw and no way to adjust it. I guess they were trying to keep people from messing with stuff, but however you can go to an auto parts store and buy a new one and it’ll be adjustable. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
I bet you’re getting a whitish smoke out the tailpipe huh? When these go bad they will leak internally and the vacuum will pull the fluid into the engine and burn transmission fluid resulting in a white smoke and low transmission fluid with no visible signs of leakage. Hope this helps, good luck. Thanks for watching.
No that means the modulator valve is bad and fluid is leaking past and the vacuum will suck it into the engine. So just get a new one and you’ll be good to go. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.
Back of intake behind the carburetor, you can also connect it to the carburetor itself on the ported vacuum port if you have an aftermarket carburetor, but it hooks into the vacuum tree at the back of the intake. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Okay, we are new to Fords. My granddaughter just got a66 mustang with 302 and a C4. Seller said it had been sitting a long time and would not shift until 65mph. We cannot get it to shift to 3rd at all. Tranny shop wants to rebuild$$$$. I do not think there is a vac line
Nice, welcome to the wonderful world of classic fords, and nice car too by the way. Sounds to me like it’s not getting vacuum, if there is no vacuum line then that would definitely cause it not to shift. There is supposed to be a vacuum line coming out of the back of the intake behind the carburetor and down the passenger side of the transmission on a C4 and plugged into the modulator valve. So if there is no vacuum line then I’d install one and see what you get then. I doubt it’ll need a rebuild, usually they only need a rebuild if they start slipping. Hope this helps. Try that first if you need any more help just ask and I’ll do my best to help in any way that I can. Good luck and thanks for watching.
@@richardgolightly4258 no problem man, that’s what I’m here for, I’m glad to help when I can and I love seeing the comments, so thanks for commenting. Yeah I’d check to see if it leaks, which if it’s original then it would t hurt to replace it anyway, after 50 years rubber tends to get dry rotted and crack. Even if it looks solid a lot of times they get little cracks which can leak as well. Good luck.
@@moparmadman1134 well that’s a new one on me, usually they shift or they don’t, but perhaps the diaphragm is getting hard and it shifts once it warms up, idk. I’d say for no more than they cost, yeah replace it and see what happens. If it still does it then I’d say it may be a valve body issue, perhaps a piston in the valve body is sticking slightly after sitting for a while and after it warms up it gets loose and starts working again. Hope this helps, good luck. Thanks for watching.
Valuable info currently resolving no 3rd gear on my c6 replaced modulator (the factory one wasn’t adjustable) vacuum seems strong but not sure if lack of 3rd can be solved by adjusting modulator screw I guess I need to apply patience
@@TomSkyNet usually if it’s a vacuum problem Then it’ll shift once you let off the gas at a higher than average RPM. It won’t have a ton of suction but you should feel it, sounds to me that vacuum isn’t the problem. Does it shift normal from 1st to 2nd or is it delayed as well?
Going to try this out. Have a 69 f100 with c6, at 35-45 mph just cruising, when you let off the gas fully it automatically kicks down to 2nd and then any input back in the throttle goes straight back to 3rd. Ever seen this?
Nice truck, no that’s weird, I’ve seen them where they delay on shifting and you let off the gas and they shift into 2nd or 3rd but not like you’re describing. I’d try looking for any kind of vacuum leak because vacuum leaks can cause problems with the shifting pattern. Also check your kick down rod and make sure it’s not partially activated under throttle or activating too soon or just any weird things going on. Make sure it can work freely and that it’s only activated when throttle is 3/4 to fully open. Then you can try adjusting the modulator valve as well if everything else looks good but it may be a faulty modulator valve. Hope this helps, good luck. Thanks for watching.
@@FastFords289 thanks! I know it's got something to do with vacuum. No kick down linkage hooked up. And runs perfectly going through the gears from a stop up to running speeds and from running speed to a stop. it's just the lower speed curvy back road speeds I'm having the issue.
@@dwaynehunnicutt3052 no problem! Yeah I’d definitely check for vacuum and make there’s no cracks in the line or a like that. If everything looks good I’d replace the modulator valve and see if that fixes it. They don’t cost much last time I priced one. Good luck Thanks for watching.
Possibly, could also be a vacuum issue, does it downshift earlier than it should, like say you’re coming to a stop sign and it downshifts kinda hard before you get to a complete stop? If so then you could have a vacuum issue cause that could also cause it to delay in upshifting. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
@@nunya6379 ok, so it sounds like it could be a possible vacuum leak, I’d check the hose running down to the modulator valve and make sure it’s not cracked or something. You can spray it with carburetor cleaner and if the engine idle changes then you know you have a vacuum leak. Usually the modulator valve won’t cause hesitation in one gear if the other if shifting at normal speed. If you check or replace the vacuum hose and it still does it then I’d try backing off the modulator screw maybe 1/4-1/2 turn to see what it does then. Hope their helps and if you have any other questions feel free to ask. Thanks for watching.
So I have a FMX, it was rebuilt a couple years ago, and it has a drawn out shift. It doesn’t shift hard at all. Would this make it shift a little harder/quicker?
Yes it could be a possibility, another thing is what color stripe is on the modulator valve, they came with different colors depending on what engine/ type of vehicle application you had, I can’t remember which colors are which now off the top of my head but I know that either the black or green stripe was the more aggressive one and the yellow was the pretty standard one you found on most vehicles. I would try adjusting it down some to see if it changes, but remember to do it a 1/4 of a turn at a time until you get to your desired shift point. Hope this helps, if you have any other questions don’t hesitate to ask. Thanks for watching.
Авто/Мото
Good and straight forward answers to my problem. Thank You!
Much appreciated, I’m glad it was able help you out. Thanks for commenting, and thanks for watching.
Your garage looks a lot like mine haha, stuff EVERYWHERE. I get it man, I have 20 projects going all at once too. Good video by the way, straight forward and easy to understand.
Lol, that’s what separates the real mechanic’s from the posers lol 😂. Seriously though, yeah I been cleaning it up here and there which eventually I’d like to build me a garage to my liking on some land at some point, but I hear ya man. Thanks for the comment and thank you for watching, glad it was helpful to you.
This is a cool video. Thank you very much!
I appreciate that, you’re very welcome, glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
Appreciate the video thanks 👍
No problem bud, glad it was helpful, thanks for watching.
A jackstand would probably be a good idea, even if the jack is good! Lost couple friends like that! Be safe! Thanks for the info
Absolutely, I appreciate it bud. Thanks for watching.
did this on my '77 tbird after i rebuilt the 351w to make 425hp. Put a 2500 stall Hughes converter in and needed to firm up the shifts so make sure i dont smoke the bands now that the engine make 3 times the power
Very nice, cool car too! You don’t see those old T Birds anymore. You can also tighten the band some as well so it doesn’t have to travel as far to fully engage either, that’ll give you a nice firm shift. I did this in my 76 ford truck, made a world of difference. The factory setting is large and they did this for a smoother shift for the average person but they slide into gear like that so righting the band some takes that slag out of it. Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching.
Thank you.
You’re welcome, thanks for watching.
New subscriber here. Thanks for creating & sharing this vid. I just had the transmission rebuilt on my daughter's 66 mustang 6 cylinder. The transmission seems to be working fine but shifts from first to second before I can get some decent rms and catch speed. If I turn the screw in the modulator to the right will this allow for a longer period before the shift? Trying to pick up speed after it shifted into second is rather slow in doing so. Also, being that its a straight 6 with the one barrel doesn't help with acceleration. Any tips/advice/pointers would be greatly appreciated!
That’s great! Welcome, and Thank you for being a supporter. You’re welcome, glad to help. Yes turning the modulator in, or to the right will hold each gear longer, which will delay shifts longer. Yeah those little 6 cylinder’s for cars aren’t very powerful at all, I don’t believe you have any Perth vacuum because that would generally cause later harder shifts. With that being a rebuilt transmission, it probably just needs tuning on the modulator, so I’d turn it in 1/4-1/2 turn at first and drive it and see what changes. As you turn it in it should get later on shifts so just keep turning it in a 1/4 turn at a time until you get desired shift points. It can be tedious but the end result will be worth it. Good luck and I hope this helps. If you have any other questions feel free to ask. Also very nice car, thanks for watching.
Thank you for the video. I have the FMX and it goes and drives in reverse just fine and has a hard stumble in all forward gears. Has a new modulator on it. Does it need to be adjusted upon installation?
You’re welcome, yes, sometimes they do. I would also recommend checking and making sure the fluid level is correct and also make sure you have no vacuum leaks, hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Great accent he’s got
If the vacuum line pops off will if affect the trans not shifting into the next gear like 1st to 2nd? I have a 65 thunderbird that runs off vacuum.
Yes absolutely it can, it can delay the shift by a lot and if you get on it alittle and let off the gas then generally it’ll shift then and it’ll shift hard because it’s shifting based of fluid pressure only. Also the motor will probably run a little rough if the line pops off because it’ll have a vacuum leak. Hope this helps.
Thanks for watching.
I have a 1988 f150 with a C6, there is no screw in my modulator, I don't know if the transmission has been messed with or not before.
Yeah, so some of the factory original modulators didn’t have a screw and no way to adjust it. I guess they were trying to keep people from messing with stuff, but however you can go to an auto parts store and buy a new one and it’ll be adjustable. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
My shifts are very soft right now. Which way do I turn to firm up the upshifts?
Turn to the right to hold shifts longer. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
How can you tell if these go bad? I have disappearing trans fluid with No visible leaks.... 93 mustang 4cylinder
I bet you’re getting a whitish smoke out the tailpipe huh? When these go bad they will leak internally and the vacuum will pull the fluid into the engine and burn transmission fluid resulting in a white smoke and low transmission fluid with no visible signs of leakage. Hope this helps, good luck.
Thanks for watching.
Just changed mine. When I pulled the vacuum line off tranny fluid came out of the modulator. Is that normal?
No that means the modulator valve is bad and fluid is leaking past and the vacuum will suck it into the engine. So just get a new one and you’ll be good to go. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.
Need help to where is it connected to up top by the engine
Back of intake behind the carburetor, you can also connect it to the carburetor itself on the ported vacuum port if you have an aftermarket carburetor, but it hooks into the vacuum tree at the back of the intake. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Okay, we are new to Fords. My granddaughter just got a66 mustang with 302 and a C4. Seller said it had been sitting a long time and would not shift until 65mph. We cannot get it to shift to 3rd at all. Tranny shop wants to rebuild$$$$. I do not think there is a vac line
Nice, welcome to the wonderful world of classic fords, and nice car too by the way. Sounds to me like it’s not getting vacuum, if there is no vacuum line then that would definitely cause it not to shift. There is supposed to be a vacuum line coming out of the back of the intake behind the carburetor and down the passenger side of the transmission on a C4 and plugged into the modulator valve. So if there is no vacuum line then I’d install one and see what you get then. I doubt it’ll need a rebuild, usually they only need a rebuild if they start slipping. Hope this helps. Try that first if you need any more help just ask and I’ll do my best to help in any way that I can. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Thanks for the response. The vac line is on. It may have a leak. Only get to work on the car on weekends.
@@richardgolightly4258 no problem man, that’s what I’m here for, I’m glad to help when I can and I love seeing the comments, so thanks for commenting. Yeah I’d check to see if it leaks, which if it’s original then it would t hurt to replace it anyway, after 50 years rubber tends to get dry rotted and crack. Even if it looks solid a lot of times they get little cracks which can leak as well. Good luck.
My f250 won’t upshift after sitting for a few months. Do you think the modulator needs replacement
@@moparmadman1134 well that’s a new one on me, usually they shift or they don’t, but perhaps the diaphragm is getting hard and it shifts once it warms up, idk. I’d say for no more than they cost, yeah replace it and see what happens. If it still does it then I’d say it may be a valve body issue, perhaps a piston in the valve body is sticking slightly after sitting for a while and after it warms up it gets loose and starts working again. Hope this helps, good luck.
Thanks for watching.
Yes I’ll try a new modulator and fresh fluid first and see if that fixes the problem.Thanks for your help I’ll keep you posted
@@moparmadman1134 no problem, you’re very welcome, hope it works and fixes the issue.
Valuable info currently resolving no 3rd gear on my c6 replaced modulator (the factory one wasn’t adjustable) vacuum seems strong but not sure if lack of 3rd can be solved by adjusting modulator screw I guess I need to apply patience
Does it go into third at all, like if you get up enough RPM’s will it finally shift or is it just 1st and 2nd?
@@FastFords289 doesn’t go to 3rd at all i don’t wanna keep driving on high rpm to find out but reverse and 1 / 2 gear work just fine
I checked vacuum lines put my finger and feel suction on the hose just not sure how strong it should be
@@TomSkyNet usually if it’s a vacuum problem Then it’ll shift once you let off the gas at a higher than average RPM. It won’t have a ton of suction but you should feel it, sounds to me that vacuum isn’t the problem. Does it shift normal from 1st to 2nd or is it delayed as well?
@@FastFords289 thank you 🙏 it shifts perfectly smooth and firm from 1 to 2 also reverse works perfectly
Going to try this out. Have a 69 f100 with c6, at 35-45 mph just cruising, when you let off the gas fully it automatically kicks down to 2nd and then any input back in the throttle goes straight back to 3rd. Ever seen this?
Nice truck, no that’s weird, I’ve seen them where they delay on shifting and you let off the gas and they shift into 2nd or 3rd but not like you’re describing. I’d try looking for any kind of vacuum leak because vacuum leaks can cause problems with the shifting pattern. Also check your kick down rod and make sure it’s not partially activated under throttle or activating too soon or just any weird things going on. Make sure it can work freely and that it’s only activated when throttle is 3/4 to fully open. Then you can try adjusting the modulator valve as well if everything else looks good but it may be a faulty modulator valve. Hope this helps, good luck.
Thanks for watching.
@@FastFords289 thanks! I know it's got something to do with vacuum. No kick down linkage hooked up. And runs perfectly going through the gears from a stop up to running speeds and from running speed to a stop. it's just the lower speed curvy back road speeds I'm having the issue.
@@dwaynehunnicutt3052 no problem! Yeah I’d definitely check for vacuum and make there’s no cracks in the line or a like that. If everything looks good I’d replace the modulator valve and see if that fixes it. They don’t cost much last time I priced one. Good luck
Thanks for watching.
My fmx is only delayed going into 3rd but not 2nd could it be the modular
Possibly, could also be a vacuum issue, does it downshift earlier than it should, like say you’re coming to a stop sign and it downshifts kinda hard before you get to a complete stop? If so then you could have a vacuum issue cause that could also cause it to delay in upshifting. Hope this helps.
Thanks for watching.
@FastFords289 it does do that and it has a rough idle ill try check for vacuum issues thank you
@@AlexSmith-ig9up yep definitely sounds like a vacuum leak for sure. You’re welcome, glad to help, good luck. Thanks for watching.
My fmx hesitates around 30 mph will this help?
Does your transmission not shift into 3rd around 30 mph or are you driving along in 3rd at 30 mph and it has hesitation?
It shifts fine till it goes from 2nd to 3rd then it hesitates & u feel it kinda hard shift to 3rd
After that it’s fine
@@nunya6379 ok, so it sounds like it could be a possible vacuum leak, I’d check the hose running down to the modulator valve and make sure it’s not cracked or something. You can spray it with carburetor cleaner and if the engine idle changes then you know you have a vacuum leak. Usually the modulator valve won’t cause hesitation in one gear if the other if shifting at normal speed. If you check or replace the vacuum hose and it still does it then I’d try backing off the modulator screw maybe 1/4-1/2 turn to see what it does then. Hope their helps and if you have any other questions feel free to ask. Thanks for watching.
So I have a FMX, it was rebuilt a couple years ago, and it has a drawn out shift. It doesn’t shift hard at all. Would this make it shift a little harder/quicker?
Yes it could be a possibility, another thing is what color stripe is on the modulator valve, they came with different colors depending on what engine/ type of vehicle application you had, I can’t remember which colors are which now off the top of my head but I know that either the black or green stripe was the more aggressive one and the yellow was the pretty standard one you found on most vehicles. I would try adjusting it down some to see if it changes, but remember to do it a 1/4 of a turn at a time until you get to your desired shift point. Hope this helps, if you have any other questions don’t hesitate to ask. Thanks for watching.