@detailjesus - Question: I know the basics but my outcome still isn’t good. Should I drop a couple bucks for a class? Or just spend the time in the garage practicing on an hood from the junk yard?
How do you do this on a RV in Florida lol. It's always hot and direct sunlight here. I can never wipe away the damn compound no matter what even when I go over it with finish and foam pad. The stuff gets super hard and not able to wipe it away.
@@John-sn4hl 3m and meguiars have gelcoat cutting compounds for boats and RV's, I rarely do them unless they are brand new so its easier to cut but we do also work indoors. I would look into those brands. just google Gelcoat cutting compound itll pop up.
Yeah had similar effect of my Nero Black Maserati, from the information I've been told, the second pass will make it look better/ clearer but it's just because the second compound is sitting ontop filling small surface imperfections and adding gloss to the compound still stuck below which is why it looks like it's been removed. When the car is exposed to a heavy rain run or a mechanical wash the top layer of polish and any sealant/ finishers on top will be removed and the haze is back. Best thing I found to work on the advice of others is after the heavy cut compound stage (one that's hard to remove) use panel wipe - kind of a degreaser. This lifted it out great for me with out adding additional polish on top but is still a bit of a pain in the ass to have to wipe down every work area to get the lacquer back to it's natural state inorder to check the work. Hope this helps 👍
I tried the alcohol wipe down this past hot and humid weekend in Florida. This time it worked and removed the stuck on compound. Sometimes it works and other times it doesn’t.
rule #1....never use Microfiber pad on soft paint....always use wool and/or foam....in this case a yellow rupes wool pad and sonax perfect finish will give excelent result in just one step.try it you will be amaze
I would have to disagree, you can use a microfiber pad on soft paint, I've done it with great success on many black cars. A wool pad is far more aggressive than microfiber and perfect finish is full of oils that generally just fill stuff in until you spray a powerful panel prep agent over it. That's why you are achieving those results with one step, just filling in as opposed to correcting.
@@Detailjesus well then you know more that the people that actually makes this products,if you ask jason rose of rupes who was the master mind of the microfiber pad you are using he said microfiber is more agressive than wool and that is a fact...they dont recomend using microfiber on soft paint because microfiber introduce a LOT of heat to the equation and that is a no no for soft paint....about perfect finish then go to Todd Cooperider of Esoteric and ask about those "fillers" you mention,ALL polish have a filling effect...ALL of them and a lot of people use perfect finish and then wipe it down with a prep spray and they dont see what you said,that is why PF cost a lot more than most polishs...because it work that well.
@@scoupemaster I install self healing coatings and use some of the strongest solvents in prep sprays and coatings, perfect finish will eventually out gas and cause issues with coating. I use only water based polishes to avoid these issues and achieve true correction results. I used to use sonax perfect finish, it does leave a great finish but then goes back to haze when sprayed down or coated over or even left alone long enough to out gas on its own regardless of how well you finish down the product. That is my experience. You are entitled to your opinion though, I am not looking to argue who knows more, I have found much of what some of product companies and youtube stars have said to be untrue or not work in every single situation. The reason for the issue I am experiencing in this video is mainly due to the temperature and humidity I am in. If I had used a compound on a foam pad maybe I would have had less sticking to the paint but I also would not have achieve the same results either, I've corrected metallic black jaguar paint on more than one occasion and it does not behave like this with a microfiber even at low speed without heating the paint up much. I appreciate your feedback though. Thank you for watching.
@@waynedharsan5288 a rotary would haze that up the same, has happened to me with rotary too. Coatings pop regardless of whether you correct a panel or not. You can clay and coat a car and from 10 feet away it’ll look better than brand new
Bro, so what is the best step to do cutting - finishing process for sticky paint? can you tell us the right order pad and compound ?? I just had honda this morning and it stressed me out 😖😖
Hi, my name's Ellie. I just bought a 2010 Nissan Juke; the paint is just kinda weathered but it's not like those old cars where the clear coat is totally gone. Low shine on the hood and the roof of the car but the rest of the car is shinier. I should add that I live in FLORIDA and even when it's overcast, I run into this problem where I can't rub off the compound. I've already bought a buttload of products (Chemical Guys Quick Synthetic Detailer, Meguiars clay bar, Meguiars Ultimate Compound, Nu Finish polish, Meguiar's Gold Class Caranuba Wax, Jay Leno's Radiant Ceramic coating, and microfiber towels and some foam applicators. Can I solve this issue of compounding sticky/soft paint with any combination of these products? I haven't attempted anything except wiping the compound off with a microfiber towel and that obviously didn't work.... I'm open to buying something else if it's going to make a big difference.
This is what is happening to me in FL. I figured I did it wrong. It’s my first time. My car needs repainting but I want to try it on my own first. If I can’t get it I guess I’ll paint it. I used the wrong type of machine first (I’m guessing) Wasn’t a cutting pad, was a microfiber bonnet I didn’t know what to do and I wanted to start over. I used chemical guys clean slate which brought me back to where I started. Now, to get the right tool - a DA. then I’ll try again. But this video helped me. Maybe I have soft paint. It’s a Buick nothing fancy.
I’m about to clean slate my car again too. I have so much haze. First I’ll try his idea on low speed. I’m also in FL with the hot and humid weather Did you get your situation corrected?
@@et5256 yes. I bought the Bauer DA. Then I purchased the 3” SETA and it came with 2” and 1” plates for the really right areas. My car was repainted at some point. Where it was repainted both of the polishers are “hopping” and grabbing”. I switched to a wool pad which made it so much easier. But I have the haze still. Hot and humid here in S Florida. To get off the dried compound I used alcohol and water and it came right off.
If you are coating the vehicle afterward correction. Using a primer polish works fantastic, especially since it’s recommended anyway. If your a ceramic pro guy the nano primer work. If not, essence by cat pro is amazing as well.
this happened to me with menzerna 400. very quickly sticks to paint. and it was the first time I used a DA machine. brand new. just my luck. I managed to resolve this two ways. one is fcking up the polish. polishing waaay longer Dustin it off, this was super easy to remove.. but. the pad and the paint suffer a lot. so no.. and then I used 3in1 by menzerna. I love that product. it's a quick wax. don't know if had fillers but man it takes all residue haze holograms off.. never used perfect finish or super finish or any of that. just polish by Meguiar's. and it's very pretty shine. also love the smell of MG. man.. so addictive. what would you recommend me buying? medium cut? and finish? 2400?. also I always used whol. is microfiber better for DA?
Once I started using Menzerna and 3D abrasives I haven't run into this issue. I remember the first Subaru I did, M205 on a soft polishing pad left a lot of da haze. I switched to Menzerna PF2500 and it removed all the swirl marks, and finished out perfectly. 3D ONE is another gem of a polish, but I'm suspect of it's finishing on soft paints. In that situation I switch to 3D ACA520 Finishing Polish.
I’m not a huge fan of 3D or menzerna. Menzerna I used for years, too oily which hides a lot. I’ve had a lot of ceramic coated vehicles from years ago I polished with menzerna come back with issues, plus if you spray a real strong panel prep agent like feynlab panel prep, it pulls all the DA haze back out. I primarily use water based polishes for this reason and since have had zero issues with coated cars and corrections. This issue I’m facing in this video is primarily due to heat and humidity. I rarely deal with it otherwise except on certain paint systems. I don’t trust 3D either, all their products were at one point chalked full of fillers and I don’t believe they’ve actually changed.
@@Detailjesus - I stay Away from coatings because I hate applying them. So I haven't had that experience. I do get better performance with Optimum Car Wax, and Opti-Seal when using Hyper Polish as a finisher. In checking the family and friends vehicles that I polished with Menzerna or 3D I have noticed no return of the defects I removed. My best friends mom has a super soft black Equinox that I use PF2500 pretty up before sealing. I always check that car whenever I see it for returned defects. They use a touchless wash, and in the years I've been detailing that car, I have never seen them return. I've heard people say the same about Meguiar's in regards to "fillers" and oils, and again never had an issue with any of that. But, I did just polish my car with Menzerna SF4000, did the panel wipe, and applied CarPro Gliss. If it fails prematurely, I'll have something to consider. Also, I've recently found M110 to out cut every other compound in the arsenal. It would be nice to switch back to Meguiar's. I started off with them in 1996, and have made a lot of money, shiny cars, and memories with them.
@@Detailjesus - And yes, heat and humidity absolutely suck. When I have holes in my schedule I do paint corrections (their guy does the coatings 😂 because I HATE them) for a local high end shop. They do a lot of preps for the Bentley, Porsche, McLaren, Lamborghini, Ferrari, etc, etc, etc That shop is climate controlled, and it makes a world of difference. My garage... Hot and humid in the summer. Luckily I haven't had paint do what it did to you! Yet, anyways.
Hello @wickedautodetailing I have the same problem but this time its with finishing polish. Am using KCX M3 with its finishing pad even at speed 1 i can't remove the residue ,its like its stick on the paint. Either using a more soft pad with same problem. This occurs only on sliver paint car's. I had to use perfect polish from angelwax to remove the sticked residue which cost me a lot of time. What do you advise me to do ? Thanks alot
IT WORKS! I was stressing out when I tried to compound my bike and it looked hazy and just completely bad I tried ur method by using polisher and it WORKED!
I just encountered the same problem yesterday and came across your video while trying to find a solution. I too ended up buffing it out with a softer foam pad. This happened even though I was using a cutting foam pad. Really frustrating. I was using 3D One and Meguiars D300
More than likely no. I've tried panel preps, really strong waterless washes, body shop grade wax and grease remover and nothing. It can actually make it worse. Best bet is use a product that is normally VERY easy to wipe off on a good day, what I mean is something that doesn't leave an "oily" film behind. HD Cut works and so does 3D One but with HD Cut, work in small sections, and with 3D One, use LESS product than what you normally would. You want to leave very little left on surface after your correcting session, otherwise there'll be a very faint haze that will be a nightmare to remove. Under normal conditions, 3D One can be awesome, but with soft black paint, less is much much better. As far as POLISHING products, HD Polish has been the best I've used but I'm not sure they make it anymore. Sonax Perfect Finish is also great but don't let it sit for long.
Hoping to save my 31 year old trucks original paint it’s never done this before with the products that we have used in the past and thankfully it’s just the hood the weather took a turn and I couldn’t do the rest but thankfully I didn’t do the rest as the hood came out hazy 😭(I think the salt on the road from the recent snow storms probably ruined the 31 year old clear coat and that’s probably why it acted like this(mind you we used to winterize it as it’s a diesel, during winter and not drive it so it’s never seen road salt till now) but here’s to hoping for the best!
I tried to compound and polish the hood on my BMW E90 LCI with jet black exterior (deep black non-metallic). Man, it sure was a bad day today 😂. I mean, I got swirl marks and the compound sticked a alot to the paint. Also, the wool pad with fine polish left too many swirls. Maybe because I used too much paste and because there were 100 degrees outside.
I'm gonna vent because I need to vent. I ran into this problem today, not the first time since I work at this dealership. It mostly happens because of the compound they carry, I carried my own compound from home and it didn't do it. To combat the problem I ended up just using corse foam for my compounds. They are so cheap, I had only one corse pad for 4 months I been there and now it's done. Today I needed a pad and ended up having to use wool and the compound would not come out. The main detailer doesn't care because he compounds, then waxes over the compound, let it dry then use a rotary to remove the dried up wax. You should see the size of the rotary, so I say ok since you not gonna buy the tools I want, at least show me the method. Says just do it.... do you bring your own tools to work or just quit the job? I swear I was gonna walk off the job then and there, luckily the buzzer went off for tje end of the day because I have a mortgage to pay. As I sip on this beer, venting helped cause I guess I just have to bring my own pads tomorrow
Yep, a damp, coarse foam pad is best for compound, try to get a thick waffled version for compound, clean the pad every small section that you do and this won't happen, you need a DA or orbital sander as well.
I was having problems with my wax this morning after compounding and polishing my black Silverado hood. I was using the CG butter wax, and wiping it off pretty quick with a mf towel. It started sticking and I grabbed the mf pad for the da. Got most of it, but will have to wait until it cools down, metal is too hot now. Never had that happen before..
One of the biggest problems, is you just arent suppose to use rubbing compound when its so hot, anything over 80 degrees is pushing it. And you wanna be in the shade if possible also.
I'm a new detailer...well semi new and I have to do this in direct sunlight and it makes me wanna not detail anymore cause I can never get the fucking streaks out bro same with windows i hate it more than anything lol
Don’t do it in direct sunlight. Only polish if they have a garage. You are just fucking peoples cars up trying to do that in direct sunlight when the paint is hot already.
Way too much polish and not working until it's clear. The high temperatures are making it even worse. The variables are endless and you can only figure it out by experimenting by yourself with a few rules that never change such as keeping a clean pad. Also keep checking results of each variable such as down pressure, amount of product, type of product, pad, dampness of the pad, temperature, arm speed... literally everything😮
I have a Xj 2011 v8 supercharged in Botanical Green pearl I live in Western Australia not humid its just a dry state and hot, the paint on this car is so soft all you need to do is look at and it will scratch, same issues with any type of polish I have tried, its bloody TERRIBLE, going to try Kochchemie finishing M3 next, Maguire, nope, Mothers, nope, Auto Glym, nope, Chemical brothers, nope. Its just the paint on these cars is as soft as cheese, tried hand, DA and rotary, honestly beautiful car, nealy 600 rear hp on mine with VAP tune stage 2 and I HATE IT!!!
@@Detailjesus , no mate just struggling with this paint since I purchased the car, am selling now and making a last effort in researching products, it literally drives me nuts, to date dealing with mine is a 2 or 3 day process, not just wax on wax off, left the circle, right the circle, disappointing paint on a 300k+$ Aud car, for me anyway. But thankyou so much for the vid, you would not believe what a relief it is for me to find the same car with professional operators actually showing my EXACT issues and how to troubleshoot
And you dont need that wool on the car your using use foam . Blue hdo lake country combo with 3done and 510 mixed one step on steroids. Work smart not hard.
Hi, I just faced the same problem. Mine is Hyundai Verna 2022, Starry Night(Dark Color), 8 months old car. I thought of using Meguiars products and bought them. I applied Meguiars Ultimate Compound with Microfibre pad by hand and buffed it off using Microfibre cloth without any issues. And, after an hour, I applied Meguiars Ultimate Polish with another microfibre pad and after 2 mins I tried buffing it. But it isn’t going off at all, I buffed it for more than 2 to 3 hrs, but could still see multiple haze spots. My query is, Can I apply the Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax on top of it? And does it remove the haze caused due to the Polish? Or let me know if you got any suggestions.
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Good video for a beginner as I - to see a problem in paint correction and how to solve it. Great work.
Awesome glad you enjoyed it!
So the answer is there’s a million variables that could make this process a huge pain in the hole. Awesome.
@@SPIN_89 yup pretty much my child.
@detailjesus - Question: I know the basics but my outcome still isn’t good. Should I drop a couple bucks for a class? Or just spend the time in the garage practicing on an hood from the junk yard?
@@SPIN_89 you should just hand it to a professional.
I found that any wax applied with a quick single pass on TOP of all the stuck polish or cutting compound will quickly lift it off the paint
Maybe on some paints. But not all
How do you do this on a RV in Florida lol. It's always hot and direct sunlight here.
I can never wipe away the damn compound no matter what even when I go over it with finish and foam pad.
The stuff gets super hard and not able to wipe it away.
Work in the shade lol. Are you using compound made for gel Coats?
@@Detailjesus Uhh didn't know I needed a special one for gel coats 😂
Which one do you recommend? I was just using some Sonax I forget the exact model.
@@John-sn4hl 3m and meguiars have gelcoat cutting compounds for boats and RV's, I rarely do them unless they are brand new so its easier to cut but we do also work indoors. I would look into those brands. just google Gelcoat cutting compound itll pop up.
had this same problem. glad i found this video. nice work
Glad it’s useful for you!
Yeah had similar effect of my Nero Black Maserati, from the information I've been told, the second pass will make it look better/ clearer but it's just because the second compound is sitting ontop filling small surface imperfections and adding gloss to the compound still stuck below which is why it looks like it's been removed. When the car is exposed to a heavy rain run or a mechanical wash the top layer of polish and any sealant/ finishers on top will be removed and the haze is back. Best thing I found to work on the advice of others is after the heavy cut compound stage (one that's hard to remove) use panel wipe - kind of a degreaser. This lifted it out great for me with out adding additional polish on top but is still a bit of a pain in the ass to have to wipe down every work area to get the lacquer back to it's natural state inorder to check the work. Hope this helps 👍
I literally explain how to fix this issue in the video but thanks 🤦🏼♂️
"heavy rain washes it all off and the haze is back" ... yeah you dont know what you're doing at all.
Excellent video. yes, I agree with the tips in this video, because I have tried them and they work. Thank you
Thank you!
What is the best to use as a degreaser in a spray bottle? Can it be regular alcohol diluted with water?
Alcohol and water
Thank you
I have to reschedule my paint correction today because of that 😅 I spend 3 hours just in the hood of a Land Rover 😢
Fairly easy to deal with once you figure it out!
If you guys want a hint use isopropyl alcohol/ paint prep comes off like butter
In this case it does not….. hence the video. But okay.
I tried that. Didn’t work.
I tried the alcohol wipe down this past hot and humid weekend in Florida. This time it worked and removed the stuck on compound. Sometimes it works and other times it doesn’t.
Alcohol defently makes you care less about the haze 😅
@@denisef1153same
rule #1....never use Microfiber pad on soft paint....always use wool and/or foam....in this case a yellow rupes wool pad and sonax perfect finish will give excelent result in just one step.try it you will be amaze
I would have to disagree, you can use a microfiber pad on soft paint, I've done it with great success on many black cars. A wool pad is far more aggressive than microfiber and perfect finish is full of oils that generally just fill stuff in until you spray a powerful panel prep agent over it. That's why you are achieving those results with one step, just filling in as opposed to correcting.
@@Detailjesus well then you know more that the people that actually makes this products,if you ask jason rose of rupes who was the master mind of the microfiber pad you are using he said microfiber is more agressive than wool and that is a fact...they dont recomend using microfiber on soft paint because microfiber introduce a LOT of heat to the equation and that is a no no for soft paint....about perfect finish then go to Todd Cooperider of Esoteric and ask about those "fillers" you mention,ALL polish have a filling effect...ALL of them and a lot of people use perfect finish and then wipe it down with a prep spray and they dont see what you said,that is why PF cost a lot more than most polishs...because it work that well.
@@Detailjesus ruclips.net/video/b4Octz-3jwk/видео.html go to 47;30 and 41;35 they will put you in the right direction smarty
@@scoupemaster I install self healing coatings and use some of the strongest solvents in prep sprays and coatings, perfect finish will eventually out gas and cause issues with coating. I use only water based polishes to avoid these issues and achieve true correction results. I used to use sonax perfect finish, it does leave a great finish but then goes back to haze when sprayed down or coated over or even left alone long enough to out gas on its own regardless of how well you finish down the product. That is my experience. You are entitled to your opinion though, I am not looking to argue who knows more, I have found much of what some of product companies and youtube stars have said to be untrue or not work in every single situation. The reason for the issue I am experiencing in this video is mainly due to the temperature and humidity I am in. If I had used a compound on a foam pad maybe I would have had less sticking to the paint but I also would not have achieve the same results either, I've corrected metallic black jaguar paint on more than one occasion and it does not behave like this with a microfiber even at low speed without heating the paint up much. I appreciate your feedback though. Thank you for watching.
Rotary cut that door use Farecla 360 dont rely on a DA to do the job ! Sps graphene pops when the panel has been corrected properly.
@@waynedharsan5288 a rotary would haze that up the same, has happened to me with rotary too. Coatings pop regardless of whether you correct a panel or not. You can clay and coat a car and from 10 feet away it’ll look better than brand new
Bro, so what is the best step to do cutting - finishing process for sticky paint? can you tell us the right order pad and compound ?? I just had honda this morning and it stressed me out 😖😖
@@KenyangNambah cut, finish and repeat until desired result
I mean what is the proper order for pads and compound to do it (on sticky paint)
compound, polish
Great tutorial. What (polish) chemical did you use once you switched over to the foam pad?
Shine supply classic polish. Thank you so much for your positive feedback
Today was 93° with 81% humidity. I used some Sonax on a older Honda paint. Later noticed white ish spots.
Honda is the wirst
Hi, my name's Ellie. I just bought a 2010 Nissan Juke; the paint is just kinda weathered but it's not like those old cars where the clear coat is totally gone. Low shine on the hood and the roof of the car but the rest of the car is shinier. I should add that I live in FLORIDA and even when it's overcast, I run into this problem where I can't rub off the compound. I've already bought a buttload of products (Chemical Guys Quick Synthetic Detailer, Meguiars clay bar, Meguiars Ultimate Compound, Nu Finish polish, Meguiar's Gold Class Caranuba Wax, Jay Leno's Radiant Ceramic coating, and microfiber towels and some foam applicators. Can I solve this issue of compounding sticky/soft paint with any combination of these products? I haven't attempted anything except wiping the compound off with a microfiber towel and that obviously didn't work.... I'm open to buying something else if it's going to make a big difference.
Sounds like you should probably go to a professional…. You are likely doing more harm to your car.
@@Detailjesus How much would this typically cost in your city? I live in Miami so I'm sure cost of living is similar to Santa Ana.
This is what is happening to me in FL. I figured I did it wrong. It’s my first time. My car needs repainting but I want to try it on my own first. If I can’t get it I guess I’ll paint it. I used the wrong type of machine first (I’m guessing) Wasn’t a cutting pad, was a microfiber bonnet
I didn’t know what to do and I wanted to start over. I used chemical guys clean slate which brought me back to where I started. Now, to get the right tool - a DA. then I’ll try again. But this video helped me. Maybe I have soft paint. It’s a Buick nothing fancy.
I’m about to clean slate my car again too. I have so much haze. First I’ll try his idea on low speed. I’m also in FL with the hot and humid weather
Did you get your situation corrected?
@Denise F harbor freight got cheap DA's to start thats what I got and still use
@@et5256 yes. I bought the Bauer DA. Then I purchased the 3” SETA and it came with 2” and 1” plates for the really right areas. My car was repainted at some point. Where it was repainted both of the polishers are “hopping” and grabbing”. I switched to a wool pad which made it so much easier. But I have the haze still. Hot and humid here in S Florida. To get off the dried compound I used alcohol and water and it came right off.
@@denisef1153 what did you use to get the polish off originally, i messed up and left some polish on my car and want to get rid of it and start over
@@desiremusic563 for me the only thing that did the job was Chemical Guys wax remover.
I’ll remember that when I move into a shop. The sun is never facing directly into the shop. It’s very rare it’s humid in SoCal
It’s pretty humid here
If you are coating the vehicle afterward correction. Using a primer polish works fantastic, especially since it’s recommended anyway. If your a ceramic pro guy the nano primer work. If not, essence by cat pro is amazing as well.
@@TheGeekedGizmo primer polish weakens the bond between paint and coating which leads to early failures.
this happened to me with menzerna 400. very quickly sticks to paint. and it was the first time I used a DA machine. brand new. just my luck. I managed to resolve this two ways. one is fcking up the polish. polishing waaay longer Dustin it off, this was super easy to remove.. but. the pad and the paint suffer a lot. so no.. and then I used 3in1 by menzerna. I love that product. it's a quick wax. don't know if had fillers but man it takes all residue haze holograms off.. never used perfect finish or super finish or any of that. just polish by Meguiar's. and it's very pretty shine. also love the smell of MG. man.. so addictive. what would you recommend me buying? medium cut? and finish? 2400?. also I always used whol. is microfiber better for DA?
I use shinesupply products only. I just use Meguiars microfiber cutting, microfiber finishing and black foam pads.
what kind of pad did you use? heavy or polish pad? also would you recommend using fine cut from koch chemie to remove the left over polish?
I don’t use Koch chemie nor am I familiar with them. I only use shine supply and then meguiars 205 can be helpful on these types of issues.
Nice tips but do you tape the car off prior to compounding or polishing?
You tape it off when the time is right
Once I started using Menzerna and 3D abrasives I haven't run into this issue.
I remember the first Subaru I did, M205 on a soft polishing pad left a lot of da haze.
I switched to Menzerna PF2500 and it removed all the swirl marks, and finished out perfectly.
3D ONE is another gem of a polish, but I'm suspect of it's finishing on soft paints. In that situation I switch to 3D ACA520 Finishing Polish.
I’m not a huge fan of 3D or menzerna. Menzerna I used for years, too oily which hides a lot. I’ve had a lot of ceramic coated vehicles from years ago I polished with menzerna come back with issues, plus if you spray a real strong panel prep agent like feynlab panel prep, it pulls all the DA haze back out. I primarily use water based polishes for this reason and since have had zero issues with coated cars and corrections. This issue I’m facing in this video is primarily due to heat and humidity. I rarely deal with it otherwise except on certain paint systems. I don’t trust 3D either, all their products were at one point chalked full of fillers and I don’t believe they’ve actually changed.
@@Detailjesus 3D One states it is water based and so does Sonax PF, so if they're water based, what causes the fillers?
@@Detailjesus - I stay Away from coatings because I hate applying them. So I haven't had that experience. I do get better performance with Optimum Car Wax, and Opti-Seal when using Hyper Polish as a finisher.
In checking the family and friends vehicles that I polished with Menzerna or 3D I have noticed no return of the defects I removed. My best friends mom has a super soft black Equinox that I use PF2500 pretty up before sealing. I always check that car whenever I see it for returned defects. They use a touchless wash, and in the years I've been detailing that car, I have never seen them return.
I've heard people say the same about Meguiar's in regards to "fillers" and oils, and again never had an issue with any of that.
But, I did just polish my car with Menzerna SF4000, did the panel wipe, and applied CarPro Gliss. If it fails prematurely, I'll have something to consider.
Also, I've recently found M110 to out cut every other compound in the arsenal. It would be nice to switch back to Meguiar's. I started off with them in 1996, and have made a lot of money, shiny cars, and memories with them.
@@Detailjesus - And yes, heat and humidity absolutely suck.
When I have holes in my schedule I do paint corrections (their guy does the coatings 😂 because I HATE them) for a local high end shop. They do a lot of preps for the Bentley, Porsche, McLaren, Lamborghini, Ferrari, etc, etc, etc
That shop is climate controlled, and it makes a world of difference. My garage... Hot and humid in the summer. Luckily I haven't had paint do what it did to you! Yet, anyways.
Brilliant thank you for the advice
No problem! Hope it helps
Hello @wickedautodetailing
I have the same problem but this time its with finishing polish.
Am using KCX M3 with its finishing pad even at speed 1 i can't remove the residue ,its like its stick on the paint. Either using a more soft pad with same problem. This occurs only on sliver paint car's. I had to use perfect polish from angelwax to remove the sticked residue which cost me a lot of time.
What do you advise me to do ?
Thanks alot
To not use angelwax
Chemical guys clean slate removes everything very easily.
Is your pad clean and damp every section?
IT WORKS!
I was stressing out when I tried to compound my bike and it looked hazy and just completely bad
I tried ur method by using polisher and it WORKED!
Oh awesome! So glad I could help!
I just encountered the same problem yesterday and came across your video while trying to find a solution. I too ended up buffing it out with a softer foam pad. This happened even though I was using a cutting foam pad. Really frustrating. I was using 3D One and Meguiars D300
Would a paint prep like CarPro Eraser help?
in this case most likely no, but you can always try. Its different in some situations
More than likely no. I've tried panel preps, really strong waterless washes, body shop grade wax and grease remover and nothing. It can actually make it worse.
Best bet is use a product that is normally VERY easy to wipe off on a good day, what I mean is something that doesn't leave an "oily" film behind.
HD Cut works and so does 3D One but with HD Cut, work in small sections, and with 3D One, use LESS product than what you normally would. You want to leave very little left on surface after your correcting session, otherwise there'll be a very faint haze that will be a nightmare to remove.
Under normal conditions, 3D One can be awesome, but with soft black paint, less is much much better.
As far as POLISHING products, HD Polish has been the best I've used but I'm not sure they make it anymore. Sonax Perfect Finish is also great but don't let it sit for long.
Hoping to save my 31 year old trucks original paint it’s never done this before with the products that we have used in the past and thankfully it’s just the hood the weather took a turn and I couldn’t do the rest but thankfully I didn’t do the rest as the hood came out hazy 😭(I think the salt on the road from the recent snow storms probably ruined the 31 year old clear coat and that’s probably why it acted like this(mind you we used to winterize it as it’s a diesel, during winter and not drive it so it’s never seen road salt till now) but here’s to hoping for the best!
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So to resolve this issue, just polish it with a fine polisher?
In some cases yes
So all you have to do is get a clean polishing sponge and go over it with that I see ok I'll try this because I have this problem
Everyone does!
@@Detailjesus so I did the soft sponge and it didn't come out I used turtle wax repair and renew and the white haze came out but now I save swirls smh
@@pavy415 it’s a never ending cycle sometimes
@@Detailjesus what should I try now
@@pavy415 well probably in 2-3 washes you’ll have swirls again so I guess just hit it with a foam pad and call it a day.
I tried to compound and polish the hood on my BMW E90 LCI with jet black exterior (deep black non-metallic). Man, it sure was a bad day today 😂. I mean, I got swirl marks and the compound sticked a alot to the paint. Also, the wool pad with fine polish left too many swirls. Maybe because I used too much paste and because there were 100 degrees outside.
Based on this paragraph I suggest you do not attempt to polish your car, hire a professional.
@@Detailjesus Will do 👍
I'm gonna vent because I need to vent. I ran into this problem today, not the first time since I work at this dealership. It mostly happens because of the compound they carry, I carried my own compound from home and it didn't do it. To combat the problem I ended up just using corse foam for my compounds. They are so cheap, I had only one corse pad for 4 months I been there and now it's done. Today I needed a pad and ended up having to use wool and the compound would not come out. The main detailer doesn't care because he compounds, then waxes over the compound, let it dry then use a rotary to remove the dried up wax. You should see the size of the rotary, so I say ok since you not gonna buy the tools I want, at least show me the method. Says just do it.... do you bring your own tools to work or just quit the job? I swear I was gonna walk off the job then and there, luckily the buzzer went off for tje end of the day because I have a mortgage to pay. As I sip on this beer, venting helped cause I guess I just have to bring my own pads tomorrow
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Yep, a damp, coarse foam pad is best for compound, try to get a thick waffled version for compound, clean the pad every small section that you do and this won't happen, you need a DA or orbital sander as well.
@@djstocks ok
I was having problems with my wax this morning after compounding and polishing my black Silverado hood.
I was using the CG butter wax, and wiping it off pretty quick with a mf towel. It started sticking and I grabbed the mf pad for the da. Got most of it, but will have to wait until it cools down, metal is too hot now. Never had that happen before..
@@randysmith1630 cg butter wax is literally one of the worst products.
@@Detailjesus
Thanks for letting me know. I have a can of pure carnauba, but is there anything you recommend that has a uv inhibitor in it?
also what speed would you recommend
Low speed
One of the biggest problems, is you just arent suppose to use rubbing compound when its so hot, anything over 80 degrees is pushing it. And you wanna be in the shade if possible also.
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Fuhkin A right Brother
I'm a new detailer...well semi new and I have to do this in direct sunlight and it makes me wanna not detail anymore cause I can never get the fucking streaks out bro same with windows i hate it more than anything lol
Don’t do it in direct sunlight. Only polish if they have a garage. You are just fucking peoples cars up trying to do that in direct sunlight when the paint is hot already.
Way too much polish and not working until it's clear. The high temperatures are making it even worse. The variables are endless and you can only figure it out by experimenting by yourself with a few rules that never change such as keeping a clean pad. Also keep checking results of each variable such as down pressure, amount of product, type of product, pad, dampness of the pad, temperature, arm speed... literally everything😮
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@@Detailjesus or just use gold standard polish and that eliminates all the bullshit
@@Rabbit.760I that is so true , I tried that gold standard polish and I was blown away by the ease of use to wipe off and left clarity…No haze …
@@robbienyc3102 it's awesome stuff
By paint do you mean clear coat
What’s the point of this comment?
I have a Xj 2011 v8 supercharged in Botanical Green pearl I live in Western Australia not humid its just a dry state and hot, the paint on this car is so soft all you need to do is look at and it will scratch, same issues with any type of polish I have tried, its bloody TERRIBLE, going to try Kochchemie finishing M3 next, Maguire, nope, Mothers, nope, Auto Glym, nope, Chemical brothers, nope. Its just the paint on these cars is as soft as cheese, tried hand, DA and rotary, honestly beautiful car, nealy 600 rear hp on mine with VAP tune stage 2 and I HATE IT!!!
Are you a professional?
@@Detailjesus , no mate just struggling with this paint since I purchased the car, am selling now and making a last effort in researching products, it literally drives me nuts, to date dealing with mine is a 2 or 3 day process, not just wax on wax off, left the circle, right the circle, disappointing paint on a 300k+$ Aud car, for me anyway.
But thankyou so much for the vid, you would not believe what a relief it is for me to find the same car with professional operators actually showing my EXACT issues and how to troubleshoot
Mix 510 with 3done
And you dont need that wool on the car your using use foam . Blue hdo lake country combo with 3done and 510 mixed one step on steroids. Work smart not hard.
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I use alcohol it work for me
Yes but not in this case…
Your not getting much cut with the compound because its drying out too fast, use a damp, coarse, foam, pad next time and clean it after every section.
That does not help on this car.
@@Detailjesus I still think your sections were to big and you were overworking it dry.
@@djstocks ok
Hi, I just faced the same problem.
Mine is Hyundai Verna 2022, Starry Night(Dark Color), 8 months old car.
I thought of using Meguiars products and bought them.
I applied Meguiars Ultimate Compound with Microfibre pad by hand and buffed it off using Microfibre cloth without any issues.
And, after an hour, I applied Meguiars Ultimate Polish with another microfibre pad and after 2 mins I tried buffing it. But it isn’t going off at all, I buffed it for more than 2 to 3 hrs, but could still see multiple haze spots.
My query is,
Can I apply the Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax on top of it? And does it remove the haze caused due to the Polish?
Or let me know if you got any suggestions.
Judging by what you’re doing, it sounds like you should hire a professional.
If this happens and you leave it can u just re cut and polish to fix lol
You use polish to remove? Like the video says
@@Detailjesus Damn dude you have such a negative attitude lol