Some of the harshness is from the cheap crossover capacitors. 1% metallized polypropylene will improve the crossover significantly. There will be more detail and neutrality compared to stock. Well done video, and the horn modifications have been around since the tractrix horn replaced the metal horns. It's a very effective mod. Without the mod, violins and other strings really resonate the horn body and color the sound.
Very true! Initially I replaced the crossover capacitors with much better capacitors (Solen. Kimber Kap amd Jantzen) and the resistors with Mills spec. The remaining harshness was solved with the horn damping. Violinssound very good and pure now. Then especially trumpets come alive in a extremely realistic sense with all micro-dynamics working out very well.
I like this mod.It works fine.It does do more than the Deang mod with the 10ohm resistor everybody talking about.I missed some of the clarity when I did the deang mod.My amp is a homemade 211 class A triode.
Yeah, I recommend to look at the inside to see if Bitumex fits. Also check the new link in the video description to the Klipsch Community Forum, where some alternatives are discussed. So far I am very pleased with the Bitumex :-)
This is awesome I just ordered my icons and would have never thought of doing what i did to my car systems body to reduce the noise by adding mass. Dynamat. Thank you.
Hi, I am actually pretty sure it will work. Try the eggspoon test as in the video to hear the own resonance frequency. Also at the Klipsch community forum as linked above I have one more positive reply on this modification on a Klipsch La Scala. But why not to check it in practise. That will at least not give a negative effect, so positive is at what remains.
Actually I am considering to built and experiment with a phase plug inside the tweeter horn, so like in many other Klipsch models. What I heard so far this sounds really good. I could make a test phase plug with 3D printing, maybe even in metal. But I would probably also need a spare horn housing, as I think I will need to do make some alternating modifications and I do not want to loose ability to run 'normal' again. Does anyone know where to get spare horns for the RF-7?
Are we to assume that the Klipsch audio Engs didn't, in some way, compensate for this somewhat obvious acoustic issue? I mean, surely they knew that the horn resonance is there ... these were expensive speakers. The RF-7 IIIs are over $3000 US.
@lyricallysikh1 Dynamat will probably give a positive effect too when taking the mat with the most weight. Adding weight will reduce the frequency and amplitude of the mass elastic system, so just select the heaviest mat available.
Do you think spraying the horn plastic enclosure with a rubbery coating like plasti-dip would give a similar effect? I know the new RF-7 III comes with rubberized horns.
Interesting thought. Guess you mean the inside of the horn. Such probably has some damping effect on higher frequency impulses. I am not sure however if such would be positive to my ears as I like the dynamics. But still, it could be worthwhile to try, especially when you have some spare horns. Please share the effect you notice if you go for that :-)
What I would do is get some fiberglass material, resin and the hardener. Mix that stuff up right with the hardener and put a coat of resin on the same area, outside of horn, then press in the material in single layer. Then brush on some more resin- let dry. Do all 4 sides with 3 layers of the fiberglass fabric, just like first one described. That will definitely stiffen up that horn 100%! This would be the sure cure to all of this issue. Yes it’s more labor intensive, but it’s worth doing it right the first time…
Great video ! one of the best Out there for a really smart solution for reducing listening fatigue due to the high pitch horns. Klipsch are very good speakers and either you like them and the horns or you don't. Klipsch to me is one of the best speaker brands out there and they have amazing products. Yeah no offense but your nails are kinda scary I was not sure if you are a man or women sorry I'm just being honest sorry.
I have the same question as Peet. I have a pair of older RB-75 bookshelf models that share the same one and three-quarter inch high frequency horn loaded driver as the RF-7's. Do you think your method would benefit the RB-75's as well? they were the smaller brother of the towers just with a single 8" woffer instead of the dual 10" i believe..
I cannot find "bitumex" anywhere in the US. Was there ever an answer if Dynamat Dynaliner 1/4" (6.35mm) work in place of the bitumex OK? They also have an 1/8" (3.175mm) thickness available also; I thought the thicker 6.35mm might be better. Any thoughts on this?
I've done this mod to every plastic horn I've ever bought. 1/8" sound deadener of pretty much any brand will work. Dynamat is fine, and so are the Q-pads that you get at the local Bumper to Bumper store.
Thanks for your reply. After a bunch of searching I found "Ballistic Speaker Kit SSSK" which seems to be a similar product. I've already received it, but haven't done this project yet to know how it sounds. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004J1WFX6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Any other tips you have would be appreciated. My speakers sound good even though my room is not great. But I like to tinker (if its reversible) to see if I like it better or not, and have the time to do it. I found the Ballistic from another site that someone used this on their RF-7s. I also saw the Dean G forum where he recommends adding the 10 ohm 10 watt resistor in parallel with a 2 ohm resistor. Those resistors are on backorder until later this month. Curious how changing the resistance on the crossover from 2 ohms to 1.67 ohms in this spot can make a difference, but folks say it does. I'll find out when I can get the resistors. Thanks again!
Adding mass to the horn wall will lower the resonance frequency. It could be very well so that 3.1mm does the job already to get such below the lower frequency of the tweeter. Just to be safe you could take 1/4". I have heard people saying that you should not deaden too much, but there I disagree. I would stiffen indefinitely. I do not like colorization of sound by structural resonance at all :-)
Hello, I own a pair of the klipsch rf-7s, the exact ones you have in this video but I cannot find "Bitumex" in the states or an online store that would ship to the U.S.I'm not sure if you're familiar with "dynamat" but I was wondering if that would work the same as the Bitumex? Thanks.
You applied the bitumex to the back (hidden) side of the horn. Do you think the same dampening effect can be achieved by applying the bitumex to the front (exposed) side?
Basically such should be possible, but then it will alter the horn shape for the sound, so impact the sound, and probably negatively due to this reshape. It will nevel look good either
Hello. Even with my bookshelf RB-81 II i feel a kind of listening fatigue that i don't have with my father's so old Kef 105/3 and this is strange koz why Klipsch engineers haven't get a solution yet ? I will try your method Shimager. PS - is BITUMEX/FG2 good ?
ma scusate se klipsch quando a inventato la tromba non l'à messo il bitume un motivo ci sarà non è che sono stupidi dopotutto non ci voleva un'ingegnere no?
I am afraid that it won't stay and fall off. But maybe if you have a very sticky one? Then it is a bit more flexibel so it might lack some stiffness. But certainly worth trying if you have it.
Shimager's recommendation is worth doing, but not for the reason he explains. Or not for just those reasons. A simple test will show why damping is needed. Touch the sides of your horn with some music playing and all you will feel is sympathetic vibrations from the woofers. The horn walls are moving wildly from the forces of the pressure waves off the back of the woofers. This is reason enough to add damping, even though damping will only reduce these vibrations, not eliminate them. They vibrations are in the range below a few hundred Hz where a lot of energy has to be absorbed to reduce movement, so I don't expect a large improvement. A refined test of this is to use a Stryke or similar test CD and see what frequencies vibrate the horn walls. You won't feel much above about 500 Hz, though at such frequencies I wonder how sensitive the human hand is. In any event the huge vibrations induced by the woofers at lower frequencies are huge would be the first reason to reinforce the horn walls (making the walls thicker would be the best solution -- or walling off the horn). I don't think harshness comes from vibrating horn walls. Harshness is a higher frequency problem, well above the 2200 Hz crossover in the RF7. At 2200 Hz there is one complete pressure wave working on the horn walls as they contain the wave. I.e., there is a half cycle about 3" long putting pressure on the wall and another similar but pulling inward on the wall. Inducing wall movement this way is much more difficult than at 1100 Hz where there would be an alternating six-inch long pressure on the wall then a six-inch long pull inward as the wave moves outward. At 4400 Hz there are two areas of pressure pushing out on the wall and two pulling in on the wall, each a half wave about 1.5" long. These are moving across the face of the wall from near the driver to the opening to the room. The area close to the driver is very rigid and unlikely to move at credible listening levels. I'm not saying that there isn't some induced wall vibration, only that it seems unlikely to be significant especially at frequencies where harshness occurs. The spoon test, I would guess, is inducing frequencies down in the few hundred Hz region, with a fundamental of about 1100 Hz which would result from depressing a six inch long wall with an impulse. Some harmonics would also occur. I.e., a six inch long depression which is a half wave at 1100 Hz. It's just not in the harsh range. I am going to order some dynamat for my RF-7's because I know the few hundred Hz vibrations from the woofers is not a good thing (that's why we build subwoofers with 1.5" thick MDF). And, it will help horn wall vibrations above 2200 Hz if they actually exist and are audible. In fact, it's more likely to absorb enough energy to be effective at the higher frequencies. On the other hand, dynamat is popular for reducing road noise from tire and that's a lower frequency problem so it will clearly help the low frequency problem some. BTW, when I got my RF-7's I was dismayed by the harshness. My solution (it took a while to figure out) was getting a better CD player. My not too cheap Sony CD player D/A was producing a huge amount of artifacts. Only when I went to a much higher quality CD player was the harshness gone. The horns in the RF-7 reproduce everything up to what? Maybe 40 kHz? That's above our hearing limits, but enough of it can mess with what we can hear. And I'm sure there was enough garbage from the cheaper D/A below 20 or even 15 kHz to create the harshness I was hearing (it was unmistakable!). I think if there was a problem with the sound from the horns exciting vibrations in the horn walls, far more reviewers would have heard it. Many did not notice it. Maybe those reviewers were using better D/A equipment. I'm off to get some dynamat.
+Mitt Zombie Right you are. I'm 74 and have tracked my hearing. I can hear 12 kHz in one ear but it's very very weak. The other is weak at 10 and nothing above. Today I might not notice the harshness in the RF-7's (from my crappy CD player) but sure could when I got them -- must have been over 10 years ago .. they were just out at the time. Or maybe the harshness extended below 10 kHz. Could be, it was pretty bad. Though interestingly it bothered me more than it bothered my wife and her hearing is better than mine (being younger helps).
Hi +Harrison Clark . Happily the equipment was not the problem here (running sources like Arcam, Musical Fidelity and Naim via LFD amplification). And the damping that needed to be done was more in the harmonics of the base frequency of the own frequency of the horn. As mentioned it worked out extremely well. How did yours work out? Curious to hear about it.
To be honest, I haven't done mine yet, but just did some roof repair on my RV with some dynamat-like stuff that is thinner but many times stickier. Way too sticky and very permanent, but two layers of it should do the job. I'll do it soon.
Hi, I guess this works on all horns that are not particulary dampened. Is the horn of the RF82 integrated in the front baffle? That will probably give slightly more work to get it off, but probably you will see the horn is completely made of plastic without dampening. Just try the eggspoon trick as in the video and listen to the resonance ;-)
Shimager Yes, it worked well. I did it at the same time as some other mods. I added bracing to the cabinet and extra damping. In sum total it sounds better.
Only now notice your comment: yes, as mentioned in the video... great difference. Sounds untroubled now... I have the loudspeakers ~8 years now and the solution ~4 years. I'm still very happy I found this solution. No urge to buy another set although I have been hearing many good stuff later...
Good idea, I ordered the RF82s, will try this mod soon. its seems like the horn overrides the other speakers on all of the Klipsch RF series, but they still have a good quality sound regardless and this mod will probably make them sound even better.
I don't think I have ever heard a horn style tweeter that sounds good. Seeing how these horns are built explains why they sound so terrible. Not sure if Klipsch has ever made anything that sounds good though... Thanks for the video, it will help me ease my suffering till I find something better. :P
Why don't they do this at the factory? I have Klipsch Synergy F3s and they sound like a tweeter is missing - REALLY. Don't care for them at all. Will switch out that horn for a real tweeter. My old shitty infinitys SM125s sound way better than the Klipsch.
Some of the harshness is from the cheap crossover capacitors. 1% metallized polypropylene will improve the crossover significantly. There will be more detail and neutrality compared to stock. Well done video, and the horn modifications have been around since the tractrix horn replaced the metal horns. It's a very effective mod. Without the mod, violins and other strings really resonate the horn body and color the sound.
Very true! Initially I replaced the crossover capacitors with much better capacitors (Solen. Kimber Kap amd Jantzen) and the resistors with Mills spec. The remaining harshness was solved with the horn damping. Violinssound very good and pure now. Then especially trumpets come alive in a extremely realistic sense with all micro-dynamics working out very well.
Great video. Wish we could hear the difference before and after.
I like this mod.It works fine.It does do more than the Deang mod with the 10ohm resistor everybody talking about.I missed some of the clarity when I did the deang mod.My amp is a homemade 211 class A triode.
Yeah, I recommend to look at the inside to see if Bitumex fits. Also check the new link in the video description to the Klipsch Community Forum, where some alternatives are discussed. So far I am very pleased with the Bitumex :-)
I tried to do this, but I had to let my fingernails grow out for 5 months before I could get it done.
They sale rubber spray at home depot is eazyer and faster.
But thank you for your idea.💡
Thanks for the comment
Welcome. Don't hesitate to inform your results. We are all eager to hear your findings.
This is awesome I just ordered my icons and would have never thought of doing what i did to my car systems body to reduce the noise by adding mass. Dynamat. Thank you.
Hi, I am actually pretty sure it will work. Try the eggspoon test as in the video to hear the own resonance frequency. Also at the Klipsch community forum as linked above I have one more positive reply on this modification on a Klipsch La Scala. But why not to check it in practise. That will at least not give a negative effect, so positive is at what remains.
Actually I am considering to built and experiment with a phase plug inside the tweeter horn, so like in many other Klipsch models. What I heard so far this sounds really good. I could make a test phase plug with 3D printing, maybe even in metal. But I would probably also need a spare horn housing, as I think I will need to do make some alternating modifications and I do not want to loose ability to run 'normal' again. Does anyone know where to get spare horns for the RF-7?
Are we to assume that the Klipsch audio Engs didn't, in some way, compensate for this somewhat obvious acoustic issue? I mean, surely they knew that the horn resonance is there ... these were expensive speakers. The RF-7 IIIs are over $3000 US.
What happens when you dampen the whole cabinet as well???
@lyricallysikh1 Dynamat will probably give a positive effect too when taking the mat with the most weight. Adding weight will reduce the frequency and amplitude of the mass elastic system, so just select the heaviest mat available.
They seem to be going this route with the RF-7 III with the "rubberized" horn material. Still have to wait until release to compare though.
Yes, indeed, well noticed. That RF-7 III will be extremely interesting indeed also with the new baffled edges and cast iron woofer support structure.
Do you think spraying the horn plastic enclosure with a rubbery coating like plasti-dip would give a similar effect? I know the new RF-7 III comes with rubberized horns.
Interesting thought. Guess you mean the inside of the horn. Such probably has some damping effect on higher frequency impulses. I am not sure however if such would be positive to my ears as I like the dynamics. But still, it could be worthwhile to try, especially when you have some spare horns. Please share the effect you notice if you go for that :-)
Sounds plausible enough for me to give it a try. Either that or..I have some relatively thick (1mm) tape.
What I would do is get some fiberglass material, resin and the hardener. Mix that stuff up right with the hardener and put a coat of resin on the same area, outside of horn, then press in the material in single layer. Then brush on some more resin- let dry. Do all 4 sides with 3 layers of the fiberglass fabric, just like first one described. That will definitely stiffen up that horn 100%! This would be the sure cure to all of this issue. Yes it’s more labor intensive, but it’s worth doing it right the first time…
I'm assuming any type of sound deadener would work such as boom mat sheets or spray?
Hi I used 4mm thick Bitumex FG4SK. The thicker the better... I ordered it on-line, but do not recall where. I will try to find.
Great video !
one of the best Out there for a really smart solution for reducing listening fatigue due to the high pitch horns.
Klipsch are very good speakers and either you like them and the horns or you don't.
Klipsch to me is one of the best speaker brands out there and they have amazing products.
Yeah no offense but your nails are kinda scary I was not sure if you are a man or women sorry I'm just being honest sorry.
Yeah, yeah, I know I do not restrict to male features only! :-)
I have the same question as Peet. I have a pair of older RB-75 bookshelf models that share the same one and three-quarter inch high frequency horn loaded driver as the RF-7's. Do you think your method would benefit the RB-75's as well? they were the smaller brother of the towers just with a single 8" woffer instead of the dual 10" i believe..
Where can i find a schematic to print cutout guide for the bitumex?
I cannot find "bitumex" anywhere in the US. Was there ever an answer if Dynamat Dynaliner 1/4" (6.35mm) work in place of the bitumex OK? They also have an 1/8" (3.175mm) thickness available also; I thought the thicker 6.35mm might be better. Any thoughts on this?
I've done this mod to every plastic horn I've ever bought. 1/8" sound deadener of pretty much any brand will work. Dynamat is fine, and so are the Q-pads that you get at the local Bumper to Bumper store.
Thanks for your reply. After a bunch of searching I found "Ballistic Speaker Kit SSSK" which seems to be a similar product. I've already received it, but haven't done this project yet to know how it sounds. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004J1WFX6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Any other tips you have would be appreciated. My speakers sound good even though my room is not great. But I like to tinker (if its reversible) to see if I like it better or not, and have the time to do it. I found the Ballistic from another site that someone used this on their RF-7s. I also saw the Dean G forum where he recommends adding the 10 ohm 10 watt resistor in parallel with a 2 ohm resistor. Those resistors are on backorder until later this month. Curious how changing the resistance on the crossover from 2 ohms to 1.67 ohms in this spot can make a difference, but folks say it does. I'll find out when I can get the resistors. Thanks again!
Adding mass to the horn wall will lower the resonance frequency. It could be very well so that 3.1mm does the job already to get such below the lower frequency of the tweeter. Just to be safe you could take 1/4". I have heard people saying that you should not deaden too much, but there I disagree. I would stiffen indefinitely. I do not like colorization of sound by structural resonance at all :-)
Use black silicone
Hello, I own a pair of the klipsch rf-7s, the exact ones you have in this video but I cannot find "Bitumex" in the states or an online store that would ship to the U.S.I'm not sure if you're familiar with "dynamat" but I was wondering if that would work the same as the Bitumex? Thanks.
You applied the bitumex to the back (hidden) side of the horn. Do you think the same dampening effect can be achieved by applying the bitumex to the front (exposed) side?
Basically such should be possible, but then it will alter the horn shape for the sound, so impact the sound, and probably negatively due to this reshape. It will nevel look good either
hi all,do you think that it is better to use the thicker bitumex fg6sk with 5,5mm thickness? thx
How to change the cross over and upgrade the internal wires of Klipsch-R-28F, because i dont find the screws with these speakers
Good question. I do not know either. I am not familiar with the R-28F
Guess so, try the eggspoon to hear what it does and draw your own conclusions. It is simple enough to try.
Hello. Even with my bookshelf RB-81 II i feel a kind of listening fatigue that i don't have with my father's so old Kef 105/3 and this is strange koz why Klipsch engineers haven't get a solution yet ? I will try your method Shimager. PS - is BITUMEX/FG2 good ?
ma scusate se klipsch quando a inventato la tromba non l'à messo il bitume un motivo ci sarà non è che sono stupidi dopotutto non ci voleva un'ingegnere no?
Great tutorial, well done...but you urgently have to cut...your... nails!
He kept his nails long for the need of the video demo can't you see that 4:55 ??
I'm sure he cut them later after the video ended .
Hi, I happened to find the source again: See RumoH - Caps, coils and speakers
How did you draw out the shapes needed beforehand? Is there a stencil or template somewhere or something?
Hi +Brandon Wood Look at 3:05! I made a drawing there that you can use....
It was really only the older Klipsch speakers with metal horns that had this problem.
+Mitt Zombie I guess not as I obtained just the difference I was hoping for :-)
Brilliant! Can you please tell me the name of the artist and album you tracked in this video though? I love it!
Please check their name at 11:11 Dan Brantigan Quartet
hi!
how many pieces of BITUMEX i need for a pair of rf7?
Would just blue-tack/Plasticine achieve the same thing?
I am afraid that it won't stay and fall off. But maybe if you have a very sticky one? Then it is a bit more flexibel so it might lack some stiffness. But certainly worth trying if you have it.
Wich type of Bitumex did you use? Where can I order this product online?
good!!
Shimager's recommendation is worth doing, but not for the reason he explains. Or not for just those reasons. A simple test will show why damping is needed. Touch the sides of your horn with some music playing and all you will feel is sympathetic vibrations from the woofers. The horn walls are moving wildly from the forces of the pressure waves off the back of the woofers. This is reason enough to add damping, even though damping will only reduce these vibrations, not eliminate them. They vibrations are in the range below a few hundred Hz where a lot of energy has to be absorbed to reduce movement, so I don't expect a large improvement. A refined test of this is to use a Stryke or similar test CD and see what frequencies vibrate the horn walls. You won't feel much above about 500 Hz, though at such frequencies I wonder how sensitive the human hand is. In any event the huge vibrations induced by the woofers at lower frequencies are huge would be the first reason to reinforce the horn walls (making the walls thicker would be the best solution -- or walling off the horn).
I don't think harshness comes from vibrating horn walls. Harshness is a higher frequency problem, well above the 2200 Hz crossover in the RF7. At 2200 Hz there is one complete pressure wave working on the horn walls as they contain the wave. I.e., there is a half cycle about 3" long putting pressure on the wall and another similar but pulling inward on the wall. Inducing wall movement this way is much more difficult than at 1100 Hz where there would be an alternating six-inch long pressure on the wall then a six-inch long pull inward as the wave moves outward. At 4400 Hz there are two areas of pressure pushing out on the wall and two pulling in on the wall, each a half wave about 1.5" long. These are moving across the face of the wall from near the driver to the opening to the room. The area close to the driver is very rigid and unlikely to move at credible listening levels. I'm not saying that there isn't some induced wall vibration, only that it seems unlikely to be significant especially at frequencies where harshness occurs.
The spoon test, I would guess, is inducing frequencies down in the few hundred Hz region, with a fundamental of about 1100 Hz which would result from depressing a six inch long wall with an impulse. Some harmonics would also occur. I.e., a six inch long depression which is a half wave at 1100 Hz. It's just not in the harsh range.
I am going to order some dynamat for my RF-7's because I know the few hundred Hz vibrations from the woofers is not a good thing (that's why we build subwoofers with 1.5" thick MDF). And, it will help horn wall vibrations above 2200 Hz if they actually exist and are audible. In fact, it's more likely to absorb enough energy to be effective at the higher frequencies. On the other hand, dynamat is popular for reducing road noise from tire and that's a lower frequency problem so it will clearly help the low frequency problem some.
BTW, when I got my RF-7's I was dismayed by the harshness. My solution (it took a while to figure out) was getting a better CD player. My not too cheap Sony CD player D/A was producing a huge amount of artifacts. Only when I went to a much higher quality CD player was the harshness gone. The horns in the RF-7 reproduce everything up to what? Maybe 40 kHz? That's above our hearing limits, but enough of it can mess with what we can hear. And I'm sure there was enough garbage from the cheaper D/A below 20 or even 15 kHz to create the harshness I was hearing (it was unmistakable!).
I think if there was a problem with the sound from the horns exciting vibrations in the horn walls, far more reviewers would have heard it. Many did not notice it. Maybe those reviewers were using better D/A equipment.
I'm off to get some dynamat.
+Harrison Clark
Somebody say 60 years old would be lucky to hear 10kHz
A majority of people can never hear above 17k their entire life.
+Mitt Zombie Right you are. I'm 74 and have tracked my hearing. I can hear 12 kHz in one ear but it's very very weak. The other is weak at 10 and nothing above. Today I might not notice the harshness in the RF-7's (from my crappy CD player) but sure could when I got them -- must have been over 10 years ago .. they were just out at the time. Or maybe the harshness extended below 10 kHz. Could be, it was pretty bad. Though interestingly it bothered me more than it bothered my wife and her hearing is better than mine (being younger helps).
Hi +Harrison Clark . Happily the equipment was not the problem here (running sources like Arcam, Musical Fidelity and Naim via LFD amplification). And the damping that needed to be done was more in the harmonics of the base frequency of the own frequency of the horn. As mentioned it worked out extremely well. How did yours work out? Curious to hear about it.
To be honest, I haven't done mine yet, but just did some roof repair on my RV with some dynamat-like stuff that is thinner but many times stickier. Way too sticky and very permanent, but two layers of it should do the job. I'll do it soon.
I wonder if will this work on the rf-82ii?
Hi, I guess this works on all horns that are not particulary dampened. Is the horn of the RF82 integrated in the front baffle? That will probably give slightly more work to get it off, but probably you will see the horn is completely made of plastic without dampening. Just try the eggspoon trick as in the video and listen to the resonance ;-)
Great for microworks :-) Like a mini plier.
Did you notice a difference in sound?
I noticed that he rapped on the second set with less force.So he got a more ull response.
Any info if this is resolved in RF-7IIs?
Rf-7 ii??
Has anyone tried rubberizing the outside of the horn?
Don’t.
great vid, i wounder if this would work with other Klipsch Reference Speaker?.
I did something similar on my RB-5
Great, and how did it turn out on those? Same great improvement?
Shimager Yes, it worked well. I did it at the same time as some other mods. I added bracing to the cabinet and extra damping. In sum total it sounds better.
can you actually hear a difference?
Only now notice your comment: yes, as mentioned in the video... great difference. Sounds untroubled now... I have the loudspeakers ~8 years now and the solution ~4 years. I'm still very happy I found this solution. No urge to buy another set although I have been hearing many good stuff later...
Good idea, I ordered the RF82s, will try this mod soon. its seems like the horn overrides the other speakers on all of the Klipsch RF series, but they still have a good quality sound regardless and this mod will probably make them sound even better.
Potrzebuje jeden głosnik niskotonowy do rf 7 mk1 ?
I don't think I have ever heard a horn style tweeter that sounds good. Seeing how these horns are built explains why they sound so terrible. Not sure if Klipsch has ever made anything that sounds good though... Thanks for the video, it will help me ease my suffering till I find something better. :P
i damped with black strong silicone.
Remove the horns from the drivers and Plast-iDip them.
Excellent video but damn dude cut those nails. Or should I say claws..
You nailed it :-) Those claws are my secret weapon. Cutting like a knife indeed. And subtle component pickers.
You're doing too much a can of undercoating will do just fine
Why don't they do this at the factory? I have Klipsch Synergy F3s and they sound like a tweeter is missing - REALLY. Don't care for them at all. Will switch out that horn for a real tweeter. My old shitty infinitys SM125s sound way better than the Klipsch.