Yes. I used copper wire attached to the rebar throughout the concrete all around the perimeter of the pool to ground. I've been in friends pools that weren't grounded and I didn't want a similar buzzing/shocking experience in our pool.
@shellydooney3720 Before answering, I feel it's worth mentioning I don't build pools for a living and this was my diy project. With that said, I felt the plumbing was fairly simple to design. All pipes are below water level when the pool is filled so there's little consideration needed for the slope of the pipes. I used sweeping turns for better water flow. My pool is not much larger than an above ground pool. Thus, I observed what size pumps and plumbing are typically used for above ground and used similar sizes. There are a few things to consider for the design. I figured out the path of the water from the pool to the pump and back again, with safety in mind. The suction of the pump can be very dangerous, easily entrapping a child at the intake if not properly designed. The water intake must have several points such that if any one point becomes blocked, water will continue to flow to the pump through another point so as to not entrap anyone. This is usually accomplished by two or more drains in the deepest part of the pool, spaced far enough apart that a single person would be unable to block all points at the same time. It's worth your time to search for and read many sources on the topic of pool entrapment and how to prevent it in your design. On the return, I found that the water jets should help "swirl" the water in the pool so as to slowly direct floating debris around the pool and eventually towards the skimmer. My design has two drains at the bottom of the pool, connected to the skimmer. So, water is drawn from the drains through the skimmer. The skimmer also draws water from near the surface, drawing in floating debris. The water then goes from the skimmer to the pump. I have a basic above ground, sand filter, pool pump. From the pump, the water is directed back to the pool to four return jets, one on each side of the pool. They're directed in a way to swirl the pool water in a counter clockwise direction. (Of course, clockwise would work just as well. The important thing is that all the jets work to move the water in the same direction.) Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
The inside dimension is 10'x20'. The tanning ledge is 2'8". The top step juts out 2'8" and is 6'8" wide. There are only five courses of cinder block and each step is about 8" high, corresponding to each row of cinder block. Thanks for watching!
I used mapei tile adhesive with added polymers. I also used mapei grout. Each of the products specified they were for submerged use. I don't have the specific product numbers handy but if I am able to track them down, I'll be sure to add another comment. This was honestly one of the most nerve-wracking decisions. I was very worried about water retention and leaking. But three years in, the water level drops so slowly over an extended amount of time, it's difficult to tell whether it's a slow leak or water loss through evaporation. Either way, I find the water retention to be satisfactory. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any more questions!
@@BradfieldsBeeYard So I watched this and the pool looks great. My concern would be the tile cracking eventually because of water penetration. I'd have suggested doing a skim coat of mortar over the block, then using Redgard or Aquadefence to create waterproof membrane layer, THEN using the mapei adhesive and grout designed for submersion.
@@stevedispensa8020 After having read your comment, I did a little reading on the subject and I will say I agree. Should anyone be watching this with intent on building a similarly constructed concrete below grade pool, invest in a layer of aqua defense or similar product. With that said, two-three years on, the pool hasn't had anything malfunction noticeably that would indicate some imminent structural failure. I do have to reapply an occasional one inch tile but I consider that general pool maintenance. I suspect the pool would last years longer with the membrane you mentioned. But I hope it lasts long enough for us to utilize it while our children are still young. Should it get to the point where we have to retile, I certainly will apply that membrane.. Thanks for watching and taking time to offer advice to others considering building their own pool!
1:17 The filling with different materials like bricks, blocks, sand and others. I guess you are in a not so aggressive weather zone. Not sure it would pass the test of time up north (expansion properties) with the freezing... when lowering the water level before winter at -40 degrees and all the way back to 100 degrees on a hot summer day.
Yes, the weather in central NC isn't that extreme. As an example, we don't have to dig several feet below grade to avoid the frost line when digging footings. Frost level is measured in inches in many areas here, not feet. One would have to make adjustments to the way they build an inground pool in considerably colder climates. Thanks for watching!
@@rebaharward7933 First, it's worth mentioning I don't build pools for a living, this was just a DIY project. With that out of the way, I'm aware your Winters are much colder, with long freezing spells. Cosmetically, you can probably build a similar pool. Structurally, you probably need more rebar as well as polymers added to the concrete and mortar to help prevent large cracks during cold, freezing months. You probably need to also be mindful to bury the water lines below the frostline in your area. Hope this helps and good luck tackling your own DIY projects. Thanks for watching!
Great pool. Great music. Who does the tunes?
In It To Win It ... FounderMusic ???
Did you bond/ground the water and pool?
Yes. I used copper wire attached to the rebar throughout the concrete all around the perimeter of the pool to ground. I've been in friends pools that weren't grounded and I didn't want a similar buzzing/shocking experience in our pool.
Concrete block is both the highest quality and cheapest construction option for pools.
You're bot-tastic. Thanks for stopping by!
What did this cost to build? I was scanning comments looking for the answer, and now suppose I might have missed that in the video lol.
We didn't keep track of all our expenses but it was in the ballpark of $6,000.
How did you figure out the plumbing?
@shellydooney3720 Before answering, I feel it's worth mentioning I don't build pools for a living and this was my diy project. With that said, I felt the plumbing was fairly simple to design. All pipes are below water level when the pool is filled so there's little consideration needed for the slope of the pipes. I used sweeping turns for better water flow. My pool is not much larger than an above ground pool. Thus, I observed what size pumps and plumbing are typically used for above ground and used similar sizes. There are a few things to consider for the design. I figured out the path of the water from the pool to the pump and back again, with safety in mind. The suction of the pump can be very dangerous, easily entrapping a child at the intake if not properly designed. The water intake must have several points such that if any one point becomes blocked, water will continue to flow to the pump through another point so as to not entrap anyone. This is usually accomplished by two or more drains in the deepest part of the pool, spaced far enough apart that a single person would be unable to block all points at the same time. It's worth your time to search for and read many sources on the topic of pool entrapment and how to prevent it in your design. On the return, I found that the water jets should help "swirl" the water in the pool so as to slowly direct floating debris around the pool and eventually towards the skimmer. My design has two drains at the bottom of the pool, connected to the skimmer. So, water is drawn from the drains through the skimmer. The skimmer also draws water from near the surface, drawing in floating debris. The water then goes from the skimmer to the pump. I have a basic above ground, sand filter, pool pump. From the pump, the water is directed back to the pool to four return jets, one on each side of the pool. They're directed in a way to swirl the pool water in a counter clockwise direction. (Of course, clockwise would work just as well. The important thing is that all the jets work to move the water in the same direction.) Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Can you give the dimensions of the pool? I love it and I want one exactly like it!
The inside dimension is 10'x20'. The tanning ledge is 2'8". The top step juts out 2'8" and is 6'8" wide. There are only five courses of cinder block and each step is about 8" high, corresponding to each row of cinder block. Thanks for watching!
@@BradfieldsBeeYard Thank you! One more question - Can you recommend a book that might help me with my DIY ciderblock pool build?
Unfortunately, no. I didn't use any books. I scavenged information from various sources online.
@@BradfieldsBeeYard Ok I’m sufficiently inspired! Thank You so much for answering questions and sharing information - you’re very kind 🤗
what did you use to waterproof?
I used mapei tile adhesive with added polymers. I also used mapei grout. Each of the products specified they were for submerged use. I don't have the specific product numbers handy but if I am able to track them down, I'll be sure to add another comment. This was honestly one of the most nerve-wracking decisions. I was very worried about water retention and leaking. But three years in, the water level drops so slowly over an extended amount of time, it's difficult to tell whether it's a slow leak or water loss through evaporation. Either way, I find the water retention to be satisfactory. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any more questions!
@@BradfieldsBeeYard So I watched this and the pool looks great. My concern would be the tile cracking eventually because of water penetration. I'd have suggested doing a skim coat of mortar over the block, then using Redgard or Aquadefence to create waterproof membrane layer, THEN using the mapei adhesive and grout designed for submersion.
@@stevedispensa8020 After having read your comment, I did a little reading on the subject and I will say I agree. Should anyone be watching this with intent on building a similarly constructed concrete below grade pool, invest in a layer of aqua defense or similar product. With that said, two-three years on, the pool hasn't had anything malfunction noticeably that would indicate some imminent structural failure. I do have to reapply an occasional one inch tile but I consider that general pool maintenance. I suspect the pool would last years longer with the membrane you mentioned. But I hope it lasts long enough for us to utilize it while our children are still young. Should it get to the point where we have to retile, I certainly will apply that membrane.. Thanks for watching and taking time to offer advice to others considering building their own pool!
1:17 The filling with different materials like bricks, blocks, sand and others. I guess you are in a not so aggressive weather zone. Not sure it would pass the test of time up north (expansion properties) with the freezing... when lowering the water level before winter at -40 degrees and all the way back to 100 degrees on a hot summer day.
Yes, the weather in central NC isn't that extreme. As an example, we don't have to dig several feet below grade to avoid the frost line when digging footings. Frost level is measured in inches in many areas here, not feet. One would have to make adjustments to the way they build an inground pool in considerably colder climates. Thanks for watching!
@@BradfieldsBeeYardwhat would you do differently for a West Virginia climate?
@@rebaharward7933 First, it's worth mentioning I don't build pools for a living, this was just a DIY project. With that out of the way, I'm aware your Winters are much colder, with long freezing spells. Cosmetically, you can probably build a similar pool. Structurally, you probably need more rebar as well as polymers added to the concrete and mortar to help prevent large cracks during cold, freezing months. You probably need to also be mindful to bury the water lines below the frostline in your area. Hope this helps and good luck tackling your own DIY projects. Thanks for watching!
I'm doing it right now I'm the block phase
Nice! Best of luck to you on your build!
The days of paying out $50k for swimming pools is over.
50k ! You wish😂 most pools are going for 65-80k with out the fixings.