If that doesn't fix the issue check your ignition switch. The connections on the switch burn up over the years and it will stop making contact and acts just like a bad starter. I had replaced the starter, alternator, and battery before finally someone in the corvette forums told me about it. Spent over $700 for it to end up being a $30, 20 minute job...
I also tore the rest of my hair out with an intermitent electrical problem. After many dollars spent and my car sitting most of last summer, I replaced the ignition switch. The car is now fixed and running fine again. It's much easier than the starter and worth a shot.
This is one of the reasons I considered switching to a fob-based push-button start system to remove the ignition switch entirely. I heard it's fairly easy to do but it's mostly getting the relay installed properly so it acts like a physical key.
Check your clutch neutral safety switch. Dealt with this problem for 2 weeks before fixing it. It's the black rectangular switch your clutch pedal hits when it's pushed all the way out. Get a flat head screw driver and hammer to tap it out
Happened to my 92' 240sx, there's a relay way up top at the top of the clutch arm. Not sure on C5 though (I have one but I'm not crawling to look haha)
Just did mine. It's not bad at all. I just took the passenger header out (remove plugs & wires) and then it was relatively easy. If you upgrade to the HD Bosche unit, you get a long bolt to replace the short stock one so it's much easier putting things back together.
Hey dude. Start checking your grounds before replacing the starter. I think it’s a bad ground because of how you lose power when going to start the car. Good luck either way. 😊😅😊
I had this same issue with my Lexus SC400. It ended up being a fried starter ground wire. Find where the starter grounds and fix that and it should work!
I had the same problem, drove me insane. Made all the checks you did. Turned out I had a bad ground at the driver's side frame rail back by the rear wheel. I guess years of exposure to "whatever:. cleaned it up and bingo she fired up. There are MANY ground connections on the c5. This may not be your problem or even the same ground location but get a schematic and start cleaning.
My 2002 did this for a short time, and I had to jump it using my battery charger… battery was fine, but for some reason it would only start when I hit it with the 250 amp boost setting on my charger. I finally decided it must be the starter, so I ordered a new one from RockAuto. Before I had a chance to install it, the mystery problem went away, and unless the battery dies, it fires up every time. The new starter is still sitting on a shelf waiting for the day it actually needs replacing.
Get Steve to tap the starter while you try and start it something metal like a screwdriver you'll have to take the starter apart and clean the brushes on the commutator clean the commutator a low battery makes high voltage High amperage which destroys the brushes and makes it impossible to get a connection clean the commutator and brushes
I had the same issue on my Vette, took a tool and tapped on the starter and it started right up! I had the starter replaced and never had a problem since.
Diagnostics win in the long run - my bet was on a defective ignition switch not allowing the pass key to read properly. After installing the steering wheel lock bypass, I no longer get the 'pull key wait 10 second' message - as much as I love these cars, they are a PIA sometimes.
Common issue with the starter. When starter starting to die - you could just hit it with the hammer couple of times and it's very possible that it will come back to life for some time. Even better is to ask someone to start the car while you hitting the starter with the hammer.
After chasing gremlins on my 2002 C5 it came down to the ignition switch and resistor the that is installed in the key for the security system. Also C5's are notorious for not running right if the battery voltage in even a little low.
I have the same issue after disconnecting the battery, its the security. Push the key in all the way as you turn to start, also try pressing the unlock button few times on the fob.
Headers throw off a lot of heat and will eat starters alive. Something “big header” won’t mention in their advertising. In tight real estate cars like Corvette, starter replacement will become a regular thing. Consider a heat shielding solution next time you replace the starter such as header wrap.
wow my 98 vette is doing the exact same thing my mechanic removed a viper security system then it was fine for a week then no crank, so then my mechanic replaced the theft deterent relay and it started fine for 2 weeks then last saturday no crank, but today it cranked up fine... Edit: Mine is a automatic, I also put a new battery in before this problem occurred is it possible there needs to be a program relearn for a new battery?
I had to replace the crank shaft position sensor and I had to remove headers and starter. Took 1.5 hours. I would highly recommend replacing that sensor while you do this job so you don't have to do it twice like I did!!!!!!!!!
if you need to pull codes from the DIC, I highly recommend either taking a video of it cycling through the codes or take a picture every time it changes. it spits the codes out wayyy too fast to write them down or try to remember them.
Been there done that it is not that bad. It’s just placing the wires back there. You may have to go in blind and feel your way and put the wires back on.
Just went through this on my 99 c5 I did a battery and alternator still nothing tightened all ground cables and checked under seat connections finally started can’t say for certain what it was 😂
Replace the ignition switch. My brothers c5 does that and we put it in neutral and move it and then we hear a click and it will start. My trailblazer ss did the same thing and it was the ignition switch.
Do you have continuity at the clutch safety switch? Is the starter solenoid getting 12V. Your issue is either the ignition switch, clutch switch, starter solenoid or starter. If lights dim down while your trying to start it, you've got a bad starter. Got to trace everything one at the time.
If it’s not the starter , it could a anti theft pass key issue , there’s 2 tabs that read the resistor chip on the key , one of the tabs in the ignition switch broke off , I bypassed the anti theft and it started right up.
I had an issue with the battery draining, turned out the flip down sun visor spring that holds the little mirror cover shut had worn out just a little over 20+ years and would trigger the mirror light to come on but it was almost impossible to tell until one night I spotted it. Unplugged that mirror light and the issue never came back.
i had the same problem check anything related to the key and the key ignition i had to change a few pieces in order to make my vette starts if the key ignition it’s a lil damage it won’t go to the right position and it will interfere with everything else, making the car just not to start
2 days ago. Mine just totally shutdown in the center lane or rt.1 here in Lewes Delaware. I cranked and i cranked. Nothing. It came back twice for like 2 seconds. 20 mins go by. She comes back on and i get her off the road. The next day. The battery is stone dead. I charged for while at work. The battery said full when I got home. Still nothing. I put the charger on repair mode and let the Optima Red top charge. She's cranked every since. Drove her to work today no issue. I did notice my crank sensor code came on. So I have one ordered. Installing next weekend with my SLP Loud mouth
Have this same issue... After using the electric diagram and a multimeter I figured out that the Theft deterrent relay is working as it should. But I found an issue where the popup headlight motor was draining the battery. I pulled the fuses for both of them, and kept the headlights always up. I disconnected my ground and reconnected it and it starts up! Now the only issue is if I wait a while I cannot crank unless I disconnect and reconnect the battery.. UGH
"Unfortunately" in this case means that fuse 14 is NOT blown. I know how you feel. This is one of the few times where I DO want to see a blown fuse which would explain a lot.
So my 2003 does this sometimes and from my research it has something to do with the chip in the key and the factory security system. If I cycle the door locks with the key fob it seems to fix it and start. Does not always work, sometimes I have to do it several times to get it to start but it has always come around and fired up. just my .02 for what its worth.
First thing i would have done is have somebody tap the starter while i crank the ignition. If the starter magically engages then boom thats your culprit.
It’s still the starter. They just seize up. Or the silanoid is stuck? I would suggest tapping the starter with a hammer? But that looks impossible 😅. I had a Toyota truck that did the same thing bro. But I was able to give it a few taps and it worked. Eventually I had to change the starter
Hey, love your vette. Do you know if theres a company that sells glass roof for the C5 targa? I'm in France and it seems hard to come by round here. Mine has cracked and the crack is not only on the surface, it goes through (still waterproof but ugly af)
It could be worse You could be working on a Jeep
I have a 2006 Jeep LJ Wrangler. I felt that comment in my soul. 😂
Oofff
I have both...I'm F'd!
😂😂😂😂😂
If that doesn't fix the issue check your ignition switch. The connections on the switch burn up over the years and it will stop making contact and acts just like a bad starter. I had replaced the starter, alternator, and battery before finally someone in the corvette forums told me about it. Spent over $700 for it to end up being a $30, 20 minute job...
ignition switch or ground
I agree with the above
I also tore the rest of my hair out with an intermitent electrical problem. After many dollars spent and my car sitting most of last summer, I replaced the ignition switch. The car is now fixed and running fine again. It's much easier than the starter and worth a shot.
This is one of the reasons I considered switching to a fob-based push-button start system to remove the ignition switch entirely. I heard it's fairly easy to do but it's mostly getting the relay installed properly so it acts like a physical key.
I agree as well as how the head unit power is routed? I’m pretty sure it’s a common thing to route power to ig
Check your clutch neutral safety switch. Dealt with this problem for 2 weeks before fixing it. It's the black rectangular switch your clutch pedal hits when it's pushed all the way out. Get a flat head screw driver and hammer to tap it out
Happened to my 92' 240sx, there's a relay way up top at the top of the clutch arm. Not sure on C5 though (I have one but I'm not crawling to look haha)
Damn you Vette gremlins!! I'm praying for you its just the starter. God speed, my brotha!!
Just did mine. It's not bad at all. I just took the passenger header out (remove plugs & wires) and then it was relatively easy. If you upgrade to the HD Bosche unit, you get a long bolt to replace the short stock one so it's much easier putting things back together.
Hey dude.
Start checking your grounds before replacing the starter. I think it’s a bad ground because of how you lose power when going to start the car.
Good luck either way. 😊😅😊
I had this same issue with my Lexus SC400. It ended up being a fried starter ground wire. Find where the starter grounds and fix that and it should work!
You’d be surprised how many times a “ghost just fixed it” for me. 🙏
Steve is a true hero!
You should put your neighbor on retainer
I had the same problem, drove me insane. Made all the checks you did. Turned out I had a bad ground at the driver's side frame rail back by the rear wheel. I guess years of exposure to "whatever:. cleaned it up and bingo she fired up. There are MANY ground connections on the c5. This may not be your problem or even the same ground location but get a schematic and start cleaning.
My 2002 did this for a short time, and I had to jump it using my battery charger… battery was fine, but for some reason it would only start when I hit it with the 250 amp boost setting on my charger. I finally decided it must be the starter, so I ordered a new one from RockAuto.
Before I had a chance to install it, the mystery problem went away, and unless the battery dies, it fires up every time.
The new starter is still sitting on a shelf waiting for the day it actually needs replacing.
Get Steve to tap the starter while you try and start it something metal like a screwdriver you'll have to take the starter apart and clean the brushes on the commutator clean the commutator a low battery makes high voltage High amperage which destroys the brushes and makes it impossible to get a connection clean the commutator and brushes
I had the same issue on my Vette, took a tool and tapped on the starter and it started right up! I had the starter replaced and never had a problem since.
It's a stick. Push start it and drive it to a shop with a lift!
Diagnostics win in the long run - my bet was on a defective ignition switch not allowing the pass key to read properly. After installing the steering wheel lock bypass, I no longer get the 'pull key wait 10 second' message - as much as I love these cars, they are a PIA sometimes.
Common issue with the starter. When starter starting to die - you could just hit it with the hammer couple of times and it's very possible that it will come back to life for some time.
Even better is to ask someone to start the car while you hitting the starter with the hammer.
thanks for posting this vid, my 2k frc has some electric issues too that i need to work on.
I kid you not I had the same issue last month and replaced my starter. Much easier than you think, that header drops out real easy
The header heat so close to the starter is what roasted it.
You need an LMC5 before your column locks on you and kills your fuel pumps.
After chasing gremlins on my 2002 C5 it came down to the ignition switch and resistor the that is installed in the key for the security system. Also C5's are notorious for not running right if the battery voltage in even a little low.
I have the same issue after disconnecting the battery, its the security. Push the key in all the way as you turn to start, also try pressing the unlock button few times on the fob.
Clearly you didnt watch the video because he diagnosed it as the starter being stuck.
Headers throw off a lot of heat and will eat starters alive. Something “big header” won’t mention in their advertising. In tight real estate cars like Corvette, starter replacement will become a regular thing. Consider a heat shielding solution next time you replace the starter such as header wrap.
wow my 98 vette is doing the exact same thing my mechanic removed a viper security system then it was fine for a week then no crank, so then my mechanic replaced the theft deterent relay and it started fine for 2 weeks then last saturday no crank, but today it cranked up fine... Edit: Mine is a automatic, I also put a new battery in before this problem occurred is it possible there needs to be a program relearn for a new battery?
Driver's seat motor draining battery
@@jondeauxman that is why I replaced my old battery but I have had the seat unplugged ever since
I had to replace the crank shaft position sensor and I had to remove headers and starter. Took 1.5 hours. I would highly recommend replacing that sensor while you do this job so you don't have to do it twice like I did!!!!!!!!!
Thabks for taking us on this wild goose chase
if you need to pull codes from the DIC, I highly recommend either taking a video of it cycling through the codes or take a picture every time it changes. it spits the codes out wayyy too fast to write them down or try to remember them.
You can cycle through them manually…
Great video, you did a great job
I have longtube headers on my 01 camaro and took out the starter no problems. 😊😊😊
Been there done that it is not that bad. It’s just placing the wires back there. You may have to go in blind and feel your way and put the wires back on.
found out abt you yesterday already love the vids
I ran into the same issue with my C5 Corvette your not alone
Just went through this on my 99 c5 I did a battery and alternator still nothing tightened all ground cables and checked under seat connections finally started can’t say for certain what it was 😂
Mine was doing the same thing. Turns out I had to replace the ECM. No issues since
Replace the ignition switch. My brothers c5 does that and we put it in neutral and move it and then we hear a click and it will start. My trailblazer ss did the same thing and it was the ignition switch.
I replaced my batwing pan with a c6 ls3 pan, gave me a lot more room down there
Do you have continuity at the clutch safety switch? Is the starter solenoid getting 12V. Your issue is either the ignition switch, clutch switch, starter solenoid or starter. If lights dim down while your trying to start it, you've got a bad starter. Got to trace everything one at the time.
If it’s not the starter , it could a anti theft pass key issue , there’s 2 tabs that read the resistor chip on the key , one of the tabs in the ignition switch broke off , I bypassed the anti theft and it started right up.
I had an issue with the battery draining, turned out the flip down sun visor spring that holds the little mirror cover shut had worn out just a little over 20+ years and would trigger the mirror light to come on but it was almost impossible to tell until one night I spotted it. Unplugged that mirror light and the issue never came back.
How to turn a starter replacement into a long saga of 2 videos
i had the same problem
check anything related to the key and the key ignition i had to change a few pieces in order to make my vette starts
if the key ignition it’s a lil damage it won’t go to the right position and it will interfere with everything else, making the car just not to start
2 days ago. Mine just totally shutdown in the center lane or rt.1 here in Lewes Delaware. I cranked and i cranked. Nothing. It came back twice for like 2 seconds. 20 mins go by. She comes back on and i get her off the road. The next day. The battery is stone dead. I charged for while at work. The battery said full when I got home. Still nothing. I put the charger on repair mode and let the Optima Red top charge. She's cranked every since. Drove her to work today no issue. I did notice my crank sensor code came on. So I have one ordered. Installing next weekend with my SLP Loud mouth
Have this same issue... After using the electric diagram and a multimeter I figured out that the Theft deterrent relay is working as it should. But I found an issue where the popup headlight motor was draining the battery. I pulled the fuses for both of them, and kept the headlights always up.
I disconnected my ground and reconnected it and it starts up!
Now the only issue is if I wait a while I cannot crank unless I disconnect and reconnect the battery..
UGH
"Unfortunately" in this case means that fuse 14 is NOT blown. I know how you feel. This is one of the few times where I DO want to see a blown fuse which would explain a lot.
Could this be a grounding issue? I would check all grounds, these cars have issues with bad grounding
This is what I think it is.
I’ve had this happen before a couple of cars. 😊
Damn these c5’s sound like electrical nightmares from the comments 😂
So my 2003 does this sometimes and from my research it has something to do with the chip in the key and the factory security system. If I cycle the door locks with the key fob it seems to fix it and start. Does not always work, sometimes I have to do it several times to get it to start but it has always come around and fired up. just my .02 for what its worth.
First thing i would have done is have somebody tap the starter while i crank the ignition. If the starter magically engages then boom thats your culprit.
I liked this video for Steve
Sometimes, hitting the starter with a piece of wood gets it to turn.
It’s still the starter. They just seize up. Or the silanoid is stuck? I would suggest tapping the starter with a hammer? But that looks impossible 😅. I had a Toyota truck that did the same thing bro. But I was able to give it a few taps and it worked. Eventually I had to change the starter
Also try push starting it. Bump start. At least find out you can still run it. Do you know how to do that?
If you own a vette....Quickjack 5000TL
Well this happened to my c5 too. But i didnt change the starter. It was some relay thats above the fuse box.
Hey, love your vette. Do you know if theres a company that sells glass roof for the C5 targa? I'm in France and it seems hard to come by round here. Mine has cracked and the crack is not only on the surface, it goes through (still waterproof but ugly af)
In the US yes but shipping to france would be about $200 so like $1500 total
First run the codes.
Going to have to unbolt the header to get to the starter not to bad
I feel your pain
your starter is an ender.
No shame in having her towed to a mechanic.
When you try is your transmission in neutral
Ignition switch maybe
its simple: no gas duh, look at the odometer
I had to do this on my 2002 convertible
Also it’s ur starter
11.7 is too low. You have a battery draw. It's always the driver's seat motor draining the battery. Unplug it. It's happened on every C5 I've owned.
anyone notice that the starter was working ?
that was the first thing i would have look at considering you knew it wasnt working
New Hampshire 603 ?
need a new starter
Fix the c5 yet
How about Tap the starter First and make sure the Bendix aren’t stuck in the starter, causing this issue?