His patience is off the charts. There’s no way Ivan doesn’t shut the camera off every now and then, and start punching holes in the walls of that shop.
I had a customer with a car full of issues, she didn't understand and started yelling saying everyday your saying something new. She end up going to a shop without telling me and later text me saying the shop day bad engine needs a swap. I didn't even bother to help.
Ivan, Given all these issues I would inspect the engine and engine computer harnesses for damage or crusty connections. Also check for a bad ground connection. It is also possible that something in the Engine Computer is starting to fail, like bad capacitors.
This is the most "stumped" I have seen Ivan but know he will eventually solve this mystery. Never have I seen a more determined automotive diagnostician. He seems to take every job as a challenge rather than just a chance to make some money. Do any of you know a mechanic that would spend this much diagnostic time on any one vehicle? I don't.
Halfway thru part 4 and this may be the best Christmas special yet. And by best, I mean, “most frustrating”! Incredible saga, can’t wait for the resolution…
At this point, just a few minutes in, and with the previous video data, I’ve gotta think this is fuel related in some form. Purge valve effecting fuel delivery from tank maybe? Combo daily double issue with injector stuck and fuel or purge issue? It being random is another layer too. It’s the gift that keeps on giving folks! Thanks Ivan!
@@htownblue11 So much going on with this thing I’m just gonna revert back to my tried and true method of waiting till the end and say” That’s what I figured it was”, probably a few times. 😅
@@brianw8963 At my old shop every time I did a diag, the exhaust guy up front would ask what was it. I would tell him and he would always say, yea I thought so. Ok Tommy, go back to hacking mufflers off, lol.
Hi Ivan, at 16:12, you can go direct to obd on Fords with Launch based diag machines using 'obd function' tab. Much easier and quicker when your flicking between Ford dedicated and obd.
@@porky7753 I wouldn't call them "hackshops"... They just have a more traditional business model that doesn't allow for deep-dive diagnostics, which is precisely what the Pastry Van needs to get fixed 😉
Ivan firing the parts canon, a Christmas miracle! P.s. check the gastank on these ecobeast, they are known to collapse and cause irregular fuel flow. The problem will be noticeably visible when looking at the tank.
In the UK we had a swath of these after a well known supermarket chain sold a load of duff fuel at their retail forecourts check with the owner where he buys his fuel from but in the meantime I would slop a few gallons of the good stuff in it to cover your arse.
This is good advice. Given the history on the vehicle many shops may just turn down the repair, which is one of the reasons why Ivan has it. But, a more experienced shop, estimating diagnostic testing and knowing the vehicle history, would have swapped the fuel. The problem is when you give the customer the costs for the up front procedures before diagnostics, many times they just take the car else where. For example, with the Ford van in the video, the diagnostic estimate would probably be four hours up front in addition to all the preliminary work. Which in the salt belt where Ivan lives, for the age of the vehicle, usually requires some electrical repairs.
I’m glad I’m not the only one that runs into these demon vehicles, though I am not nearly as smart as Ivan. I probably take much longer to figure it out. I learn a ton from this channel.
I can’t wait for part 5. This crap almost bankrupts my shop all the time. At part 4 I got a notebook and started documenting all this, now my jaw is clenching slightly from the stress.
I know this van was having you climbing the walls in frustration Ivan. The last one I did was the same year, make and model. But owned by a mobile lock smith. It felt like it turned into a never-ending project. I spent months undoing all the butchery that it went through by someone else trying to keep this thing on the road. And after its last round of repairs, I had it running beautifully and all systems finally working perfectly once again. Then after just a few days of trouble-free driving, my glorious victory comes to a bitter end when I get word from its owner that the van got hit by a public transit bus and was deemed totaled by the insurance company.
As a kid , I did all 4 wheels with drum brakes . I only had a sissor jack and a 4 way lug wrench . The guy paid me . A week later , I see it abandoned on a major expressway and partially stripped of tires , etc. He said " it stopped running " !
I'm thinking that this either has to be (a) bad ground(s) or a PCM that goes haywire after heating up. This van has you playing "Whack-a-Mole" and I don't think that the parts canon is the solution. Very compelling and educational series, Ivan.
Wow! I would be lost on this one..... But I know your track record. You always come through! I can see how some aren't feasible to repair, especially at the dealer. Can't wait to see the next chapter!
Our world Ivan, best way to find out what else is wrong with a vehicle is to fix something on it. I have done a bunch of Purge assemblies and Fuel pumps on these, lol. Curious to see what else you find.
Hey Ivan, I worked as a network engineer and supported computer controlled data communication exchanges. When you were going through the diagnosis, I was shouting to reset the memory as it looked like a memory corruption error to me. I’ve seen all sorts of weird stuff happen from corrupted memory in modules. If the problem keeps happening, I would think a reflash of the ECM might also be something worth trying as Inhave seen computers with corrupted BIOS that would work but cause random errors with peripherals. To me, it is fascinating that these issues don’t come up more often with the number of networked modules on modern cars.
After watching this series and working on cars I am placing my bet on intermittent stuck open or closed fuel injectors that are electrically ok. good luck
Ivan I would pull off high pressure fuel pump and look at the pumps push rod and use mirror to check cam lobe for wear, common ford known problem,that throw solenoid wacky.
ivan, we really appreciate your videos.im hoping this dont turn into last years audi from hell.am glad your business is so successful & your enjoying the carreer you love so much.
With all these weird cases you take on, you might want to consider getting some sort of multi channel data logger. I.E. kind of like an oscilloscope but with more channels, where some channels have way lower performance. You don't need MHz bandwidths for things like O2 sensors, MAP sensors and whatnot. And also you don't need high resolution for the exact voltage for things like cam and crank sensors. With a data logger with enough channels, you could measure more or less all sensors at the same time, signals to injectors and ignition modules and other actuators, and you could also add your own known-good sensors (for example MAF on the intake between the air filter and the throttle body, and an O2 sensor somewhere). Not sure if it would help in this particular case, but it would probably be good to have a full log of more or less all signals, maybe also in combination with video of scan tool graphs of what the engine computer thinks various sensor values are. P.S. I also think that a tool that "everyone" is missing is a simple VCO, i.e. voltage controlled oscillator, that just emits a tone from a simple speaker where the pitch correlates to input voltage. This makes it easy both to "read" a signal value while paying attention to traffic, but also the human senses is way better at detecting small variations in pitch, and in particular react to it immediately, as compared to looking at a display of some sort. A tool like this would cost say $20 or so even when produced in small quantities, and could be used to for example monitor O2 and MAF/MAP sensors and whatnot.
WAY too early in the morning for me to be shaking my head this much.. lol ! I did think about the KAM. However, at this point all I'll say is I'm staying tuned! :)
KAM and similar resets are key when working on fuel trims. I chased a Volvo after replacing an AFR sensor. Fuel trims were way off because of a failed sensor. I replaced, but the PCM remembered the previously biased fuel trim numbers. The fuel trims would begin to correct, but would set a code before enough trim could be removed. Which would then stop any trim adjustment. I continually cleared codes getting~10% correction each time closer to 0 before I realized I never reset the trims. Resetting the trims instantly corrected my issue.
Thank you for taking us along on these troubleshooting journeys, I'm retired and really enjoy these videos to keep the Grey Matter engaged, I also enjoy seeing how nice your weather is as we are deep into winter here in central Canada. Now how I spent most of my Summer. I own a Ford F150 and often ask myself why I do. ;), As I only use this truck occasionally so fixing it isn't a high priority. After months and months of cleaning, swapping and replacing parts I finally swapped my recently rebuilt alternator after another battery went dead after sitting overnight, it is just another intermittent issue which only occasionally was an issue, could go months with no problem, and wouldn't you know it it now runs great as well as hasn't gone dead since, so weird, can a defective alternator cause all those issues? Jeez, enough to make you want to take the bus. Lol
I remember seeing some oily connectors. I also remember that that was in the code description as one of the possible causes. I would check that. And I also would fill her up with premium fuel and check the alcohol content setting.
I had a 2016 non-turbo transit connect as a work vehicle and the foot wells used to collect so much snow and slush i had to periodically use a mop to dry the area. One day i started it up and only made it a 100 yards or so and the instrument cluster went crazy and the van stalled. Could'nt get it to restart. Mechanics said you know where your feet go? well theres wires under there. It was water intrusion into the harness that took down the van! After that i had to make sure the footwell stayed dry but its a bad design, similar to the ford flex where the area is like stepping into a tub.
If that's the wet belt engine we call them eco booms here in the UK, the cambelt runs in oil, degrades and blocks filters etc over time causing all kinds of problems and results in a new engine being needed.
Happy holidays PHAD Family & may u all Have a Merry Christmas 🎄 & A Fun New Year '25 🎉 Best wishes from New Jersey....keep up with da great work & videos...
Seasons Greetings Ivan, nice to see you working on a vehicle we also get in the UK. Can't help thinking "Ecoboost" is Fords description for junk. Eagerly awaiting the conclusion, thanks so much for another years education and entertainment.
Whenever I got an intermittent, I would make a written list of what needed to be tested and go from there. Even like fuel quality, alternator ripple(does it run better with a battery charger?), loose or bad grounds? What about camshaft damage from the HP fuel pump? What about fluids in the plug in connectors? Try moving connectors with the engine running.
I have a F150. My purge valve got stuck open when the truck hit 1 year old. It's now 8 years old and the replacement is still going strong. It's also the easiest part on the truck to replace. Right on top of the engine where it's easy to get to. By the way, if you don't like blowing and sucking on the valve, idle the engine and disconnect the hose. Put your finger over the hole. If there's suction, it's bad.
I just replaced one of those purge solenoids last week on a Ford Escape. I used the kit rather than replacing the entire assembly. Worked like a charm. ;)
I fo remember older words to hard reset we use to remove battery cable and short the cable to the battery and or push brake pedal and turn ignition in to crank position to wipe out the memory. I do remember fighting several with idle stability issues and this was the only fix and then driving to relearn.
I had made comment on the first video about possible oil wicking to the ECU from the oil contaminated sensor plugs. Not totally uncommon in the euro cars originating from fouled cam sensor plugs. They even make pigtails to isolate the harness plugs from the sensors. The extent of oil wicking can be shocking in how far it can get, can ruin an entire harness and ECU. May want to verify harness is clean, the wicking could have gotten to the O2s, evap, etc. Just something to check.
Crazy failure cause! I also, noticed the first P2196 cause: water in the connector. Hmmmm. Ivan did find oil in a coolant sensor, pretty unusual. I think oil acts like an insulator and coolant or salty water is a pretty good conductor (before it promotes oxidation and contact failure as an open). The way the faults appear suggests to me an electrical failure. Just glad I'm not in Ivan's garage with this ;-)
Purge system or EVAP systems live a hard life and always fail. This vehicle is at that age and mileage to start there with tank pressure and purge valve.
Getting weirder by the day, Ivan! As if certain codes mask other codes, until they are solved, and then the masked codes appear. Resetting the KAM solved the problems? I guess we will have to wait until Christmas Eve, to get a present from Santa 🙂 On to Part 5!
I put in a high pressure pump that had failed in one, (low and erratic pressure) and it was 3 times the desired fuel pressure, clear codes reset KAM and drive it 20 minutes before it finally started bringing the fuel pressure down to what it said it desired.
Have you checked that ignition coil on cylinder 3 yet? It could be seen sparking to the wiring harness in one of the previous videos. That will cause the misfire and rich condition at times.
One of my friends installed a starter on a vehicle and actually shorted the main power to ground for just a second. Lots of codes came up and they were plenty of bad sensors afterwards, but the crazy fuel trims like that ended up being a bad catalytic converter. The gas is weren't able to pass through that converter very easily so they gathered up at the upstream O2 sensor and showed Rich so the computer was trying to reduce fuel so much that it was bottoming out at -25%
Ivan something that doesn’t cost but time; 1) Check each spark plug for color or wet 2) remove battery power- let it sit for an hour 3) clean that one way vacuum valve
l always enjoy your videos even though most of the electronics confuses me. i really felt bad for you with all the headaches this car gave you. i couldnt wait for you to find the problem
Rule out ethanol sensor fail by taking a fuel sample to test and verify alcohol percentage, if ok try reflashing ECU and see if any improvement updates available, last is replace ECU.
My Volvo V70 P2 had similar issues where it would have intermittent short term fuel trims of +/- 30%. At times it would drive just fine then randomly idle horribly and misfire. I replaced a few sensors, but it ended up being a semi-clogged PCV system.. One of the hoses was completely clogged.
Glad you didn't reveal it yet but taking a stab at it.....its the pcm. Thought that from the last video. Had a similar issue on a jeep where codes were not setting when they should have (ie sensors unplugged) and unexplainable fuel trims
I remember resetting the kam on the old tortis ,freestar, expeditions after replacing the fuel filter. I believe the fuel pump driver module needed it to be cleared to relearn new fuel trims that aren’t skewed by a clogged fuel filter. Obviously not the case with this one but I’m almost thinking of a randomly failing frp sensor or something with the timing of the hpfp? Cool case study so far!
Every Ford I've had with these problems has had a bad body ground next to the battery that needed cleaning or the large body to frame ground strap needed replacement. Even had the battery to engine block with 3 volts of voltage drop as the bolt was corroded and had to relocate that body strap. Low voltage on the O2 is lean, so thats why I mentioned it. Usually, when I have this many random codes, it's the computer.
They're good engines, it's everything around them with the Ford Logo on it... That absolutely suck! The 2.0-2.3 Ecoboost was designed by Mazda not Ford and Mazda has it in the MazdaSpeed 3 one of the most reliable engines they ever made! But Ford! Stepped in and the first thing Ford did? Cheap everything in true American Corporate fashion! Lowered the quality to make more money! if you got an Ecoboost from 2016-2020 you will have a cylinder crack from Piston 2 that will leak coolant. Is not "if" but "when"..
My guess would be on air leak pressure or vacume making the calculated values incorrect. Causing the lambda sensor to compensate. And when its way out of spec the ecu shuts down the fuel to try to save engine from damage. I've seen this happen first hand. Not on a Ford though. But my guess on the air leak is based on the sound. It literally sounds to me like the boost is leaking out. What you can try is let the car idle for a very long time. My guess is that this only shows after throttle on or off. If it stays steady my theory is that the ecu compensates. But the swing from lean to rich is so much that the ecu tries to up the fuel pressure when it's lean. And then it overshoots and shuts down. That's my train of thought. This is going to be fun to follow and see what it ens up being.
When you rev it fuel pressure spikes up to over 1700 psi. Is that normal? Others have said cam follower for fuel pump can have issues. To satisfy myself, I would remove fuel pump and inspect all parts/surfaces. If clear that rules out that side of fuel pump. Otherwise this has me stumped as well. Will be curious as to what you find is the issue with this troublesome vehicle. Retired mechanic/machinist in Australia.
I’m wondering if we should make shirts that say what would Scotty do!!!!rev up your engines. I had a eco boost basically a no start loosened in take manifold it would start impeller wheel on turbo axle sheared.
If it's taking that much fuel away without missing it's getting fuel from somewhere. EVAP or PCV probably where I'd look 1st. My 4Runner had a rich condition at idle due to leaking aftermarket injectors.
Checking connections in the area of the connections that did have contamination would be a good idea. Does this Ford use common grounds or reference supply that is being randomly skewed or causing errors on the sensor signal? Similarly a flaky solenoid (purge, timing, fuel pressure, injector, EGR, etc) could be the issue..... A fun one for the viewers and a hair puller for Ivan.
Is there a way to bypass the purge valve and keep the ecu happy? After that, do we check injector leak down? Im not sure how you would on a high pressure system...@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics That's the million dollar question isn't it. The problem with oil contamination is perfectly good sensors will give you random false readings. Simply replacing them won't fix the issue. You'll never stop chasing your tail (sounds familiar). It comes down to, is the vehicle worth the cost and effort to eliminate that variable? If you don't, you could end up spending more replacing perfectly good parts.
Unplug ECU connector and look for oil contamination from oil in wiring harness, seen it before on this era fords. Causes chaos and hard to pinpoint.
His patience is off the charts. There’s no way Ivan doesn’t shut the camera off every now and then, and start punching holes in the walls of that shop.
@@combobulater His walls are 1/2” plywood, that’d be hard on the knuckles. 😅
Haha this van was definitely a Rollercoaster of "are we done yet"? 😂
My boss would be getting impatient lol 😂 . Need to bill it out . 😮
Ivan swears like a sailor off camera with cars like this.
It’s not often we see a Pine Hollow video that “Sucks” or “Blows” 🤣. Good job Ivan.
Next thing I would check is the resale value
LOL
The blue oval in front screws up resale
Ditto 🥴🙃🙂
😆😆
You got a Ford van, for delivering pastries, you better be in the dough 💰
Booo
AWESOME! KEKW!
I see what you did there:)
Ivan is the freaking man at figuring out this crap. Love these videos
I had a customer with a car full of issues, she didn't understand and started yelling saying everyday your saying something new. She end up going to a shop without telling me and later text me saying the shop day bad engine needs a swap. I didn't even bother to help.
@@dcomputers This new crap they sell has gotten way past old !!!
Ivan, Given all these issues I would inspect the engine and engine computer harnesses for damage or crusty connections. Also check for a bad ground connection. It is also possible that something in the Engine Computer is starting to fail, like bad capacitors.
Couger, meowwww
This is the most "stumped" I have seen Ivan but know he will eventually solve this mystery. Never have I seen a more determined automotive diagnostician. He seems to take every job as a challenge rather than just a chance to make some money.
Do any of you know a mechanic that would spend this much diagnostic time on any one vehicle? I don't.
Maybe Eric O at SMA.
Halfway thru part 4 and this may be the best Christmas special yet. And by best, I mean, “most frustrating”! Incredible saga, can’t wait for the resolution…
At this point, just a few minutes in, and with the previous video data, I’ve gotta think this is fuel related in some form. Purge valve effecting fuel delivery from tank maybe? Combo daily double issue with injector stuck and fuel or purge issue? It being random is another layer too. It’s the gift that keeps on giving folks! Thanks Ivan!
DI injector
Agree, almost like when the fuel pressure spikes high one or more injectors leak by. Guess we'll find out in a future part!
@@htownblue11 So much going on with this thing I’m just gonna revert back to my tried and true method of waiting till the end and say” That’s what I figured it was”, probably a few times. 😅
@@brianw8963 At my old shop every time I did a diag, the exhaust guy up front would ask what was it. I would tell him and he would always say, yea I thought so. Ok Tommy, go back to hacking mufflers off, lol.
@@stevestadnik9206 😅😅👍
Hi Ivan, at 16:12, you can go direct to obd on Fords with Launch based diag machines using 'obd function' tab. Much easier and quicker when your flicking between Ford dedicated and obd.
This where most shops give up but Ivan keeps going. That's what separates Ivan from the hackshops.
@@porky7753 I wouldn't call them "hackshops"... They just have a more traditional business model that doesn't allow for deep-dive diagnostics, which is precisely what the Pastry Van needs to get fixed 😉
That's pretty F'd up. Nice series on the pastry van.
No more popcorn for me, switching to warm apple pie and ice cream.
Ivan firing the parts canon, a Christmas miracle!
P.s. check the gastank on these ecobeast, they are known to collapse and cause irregular fuel flow. The problem will be noticeably visible when looking at the tank.
In the UK we had a swath of these after a well known supermarket chain sold a load of duff fuel at their retail forecourts check with the owner where he buys his fuel from but in the meantime I would slop a few gallons of the good stuff in it to cover your arse.
Every little helps. 😂
Never thought of bad gas.😊
@@edwardtabor77 Funny, every time my outboard engines acted badly my buddy would say "probably bad gas". It never was.
@@robertheim352 I’ve had the same thing. Now on snowblowers I’ve seen dozens with water in the fuel👍
This is good advice. Given the history on the vehicle many shops may just turn down the repair, which is one of the reasons why Ivan has it. But, a more experienced shop, estimating diagnostic testing and knowing the vehicle history, would have swapped the fuel. The problem is when you give the customer the costs for the up front procedures before diagnostics, many times they just take the car else where. For example, with the Ford van in the video, the diagnostic estimate would probably be four hours up front in addition to all the preliminary work. Which in the salt belt where Ivan lives, for the age of the vehicle, usually requires some electrical repairs.
I’m glad I’m not the only one that runs into these demon vehicles, though I am not nearly as smart as Ivan. I probably take much longer to figure it out. I learn a ton from this channel.
This Pastry Van takes the cake for "demon vehicle"... No pun intended 😂
Average DIY guys and tech students must take the time to view this series. It’s hard to believe the history of automobiles has led us to this era.
I can’t wait for part 5. This crap almost bankrupts my shop all the time.
At part 4 I got a notebook and started documenting all this, now my jaw is clenching slightly from the stress.
Just wait until part 10 when he finally finds the fault.
I would check if the PCM connector is oily.
I know this van was having you climbing the walls in frustration Ivan. The last one I did was the same year, make and model. But owned by a mobile lock smith. It felt like it turned into a never-ending project. I spent months undoing all the butchery that it went through by someone else trying to keep this thing on the road. And after its last round of repairs, I had it running beautifully and all systems finally working perfectly once again. Then after just a few days of trouble-free driving, my glorious victory comes to a bitter end when I get word from its owner that the van got hit by a public transit bus and was deemed totaled by the insurance company.
As a kid , I did all 4 wheels with drum brakes . I only had a sissor jack and a 4 way lug wrench . The guy paid me . A week later , I see it abandoned on a major expressway and partially stripped of tires , etc. He said " it stopped running " !
The irony of that story sums up this junker (the same/similar may happen.)If I owned it as soon as Ivan has it running good sell the blasted headache.
What was the mileage of the van when you started to work on it?
@@windward2818 I can't remember exactly but it was just north of 200k.
@@windward2818 I would not be much more now the bloody thing keeps crapping it's self It can not get out of it's .own road😂
I'm thinking that this either has to be (a) bad ground(s) or a PCM that goes haywire after heating up. This van has you playing "Whack-a-Mole" and I don't think that the parts canon is the solution. Very compelling and educational series, Ivan.
Or an intermittent short in the sensor circuitry.
Just put some milk and cookies under the hood and Santa Claus will fix it.😅
This van is going to drive you to drink😂🤣
Wow! I would be lost on this one..... But I know your track record. You always come through! I can see how some aren't feasible to repair, especially at the dealer. Can't wait to see the next chapter!
Our world Ivan, best way to find out what else is wrong with a vehicle is to fix something on it.
I have done a bunch of Purge assemblies and Fuel pumps on these, lol.
Curious to see what else you find.
It’s literally the gift that keeps on giving the whole way
Thars a Booger under that hood 😮. Should have been a Halloween special. 😂🎉 Great video and merry Christmas y'all
Hey Ivan, I worked as a network engineer and supported computer controlled data communication exchanges. When you were going through the diagnosis, I was shouting to reset the memory as it looked like a memory corruption error to me. I’ve seen all sorts of weird stuff happen from corrupted memory in modules. If the problem keeps happening, I would think a reflash of the ECM might also be something worth trying as Inhave seen computers with corrupted BIOS that would work but cause random errors with peripherals. To me, it is fascinating that these issues don’t come up more often with the number of networked modules on modern cars.
Living up to it's name, Fix Or Repair Daily.
Excellent diagnostic.
After watching this series and working on cars I am placing my bet on intermittent stuck open or closed fuel injectors that are electrically ok. good luck
Ivan I would pull off high pressure fuel pump and look at the pumps push rod and use mirror to check cam lobe for wear, common ford known problem,that throw solenoid wacky.
ivan, we really appreciate your videos.im hoping this dont turn into last years audi from hell.am glad your business is so successful & your enjoying the carreer you love so much.
With all these weird cases you take on, you might want to consider getting some sort of multi channel data logger.
I.E. kind of like an oscilloscope but with more channels, where some channels have way lower performance. You don't need MHz bandwidths for things like O2 sensors, MAP sensors and whatnot. And also you don't need high resolution for the exact voltage for things like cam and crank sensors.
With a data logger with enough channels, you could measure more or less all sensors at the same time, signals to injectors and ignition modules and other actuators, and you could also add your own known-good sensors (for example MAF on the intake between the air filter and the throttle body, and an O2 sensor somewhere).
Not sure if it would help in this particular case, but it would probably be good to have a full log of more or less all signals, maybe also in combination with video of scan tool graphs of what the engine computer thinks various sensor values are.
P.S. I also think that a tool that "everyone" is missing is a simple VCO, i.e. voltage controlled oscillator, that just emits a tone from a simple speaker where the pitch correlates to input voltage. This makes it easy both to "read" a signal value while paying attention to traffic, but also the human senses is way better at detecting small variations in pitch, and in particular react to it immediately, as compared to looking at a display of some sort. A tool like this would cost say $20 or so even when produced in small quantities, and could be used to for example monitor O2 and MAF/MAP sensors and whatnot.
WAY too early in the morning for me to be shaking my head this much.. lol ! I did think about the KAM. However, at this point all I'll say is I'm staying tuned! :)
Ivan, Good to know that even you have questions some time! Great job.
KAM and similar resets are key when working on fuel trims. I chased a Volvo after replacing an AFR sensor. Fuel trims were way off because of a failed sensor. I replaced, but the PCM remembered the previously biased fuel trim numbers. The fuel trims would begin to correct, but would set a code before enough trim could be removed. Which would then stop any trim adjustment. I continually cleared codes getting~10% correction each time closer to 0 before I realized I never reset the trims. Resetting the trims instantly corrected my issue.
As far as Ford is concerned this van has done its job and time for a new van.
Since it is a FORD it is either Fix Or Repair Daily or Found On Road Dead
@@85rx7se That is the F.O.R.D. mantra for sure (I hate Fords & turbos.)
This series just keeps getting better and better all the time! Ivan is starting to go crazy, you can see it in his eyes! Lack of sleep etc....
@@TheVespap200e it's going to get much "weirder" 😱🤯
Thank you for taking us along on these troubleshooting journeys, I'm retired and really enjoy these videos to keep the Grey Matter engaged, I also enjoy seeing how nice your weather is as we are deep into winter here in central Canada. Now how I spent most of my Summer. I own a Ford F150 and often ask myself why I do. ;), As I only use this truck occasionally so fixing it isn't a high priority. After months and months of cleaning, swapping and replacing parts I finally swapped my recently rebuilt alternator after another battery went dead after sitting overnight, it is just another intermittent issue which only occasionally was an issue, could go months with no problem, and wouldn't you know it it now runs great as well as hasn't gone dead since, so weird, can a defective alternator cause all those issues? Jeez, enough to make you want to take the bus. Lol
Pinch off the purge line & see if the fuel trims stabilize.
PartsCannon..☄️☄️..u got this Ivan..
I remember seeing some oily connectors. I also remember that that was in the code description as one of the possible causes. I would check that. And I also would fill her up with premium fuel and check the alcohol content setting.
Oil in ECU connector.
This van is something else.
I had a 2016 non-turbo transit connect as a work vehicle and the foot wells used to collect so much snow and slush i had to periodically use a mop to dry the area. One day i started it up and only made it a 100 yards or so and the instrument cluster went crazy and the van stalled. Could'nt get it to restart. Mechanics said you know where your feet go? well theres wires under there. It was water intrusion into the harness that took down the van! After that i had to make sure the footwell stayed dry but its a bad design, similar to the ford flex where the area is like stepping into a tub.
If that's the wet belt engine we call them eco booms here in the UK, the cambelt runs in oil, degrades and blocks filters etc over time causing all kinds of problems and results in a new engine being needed.
Happy holidays PHAD Family & may u all Have a Merry Christmas 🎄 & A Fun New Year '25 🎉 Best wishes from New Jersey....keep up with da great work & videos...
Seasons Greetings Ivan, nice to see you working on a vehicle we also get in the UK. Can't help thinking "Ecoboost" is Fords description for junk. Eagerly awaiting the conclusion, thanks so much for another years education and entertainment.
See you next year I love this type of shop
Whenever I got an intermittent, I would make a written list of what needed to be tested and go from there. Even like fuel quality, alternator ripple(does it run better with a battery charger?), loose or bad grounds? What about camshaft damage from the HP fuel pump? What about fluids in the plug in connectors? Try moving connectors with the engine running.
Reckon it'll be boxing day before we get to the bottom of this one.
Have a good Christmas Ivan & family.
I have a F150. My purge valve got stuck open when the truck hit 1 year old. It's now 8 years old and the replacement is still going strong. It's also the easiest part on the truck to replace. Right on top of the engine where it's easy to get to. By the way, if you don't like blowing and sucking on the valve, idle the engine and disconnect the hose. Put your finger over the hole. If there's suction, it's bad.
I just replaced one of those purge solenoids last week on a Ford Escape. I used the kit rather than replacing the entire assembly. Worked like a charm. ;)
Living up to the name
Fix
Or
Repair
Daily
Found On Road Dead
As Eric O would say -----> SEND IT TO THE CRUSHER !!
Computer
Confusion...
What a mess !
Love this multi part series.
Probably should have saved it for
Halloween 😂
I fo remember older words to hard reset we use to remove battery cable and short the cable to the battery and or push brake pedal and turn ignition in to crank position to wipe out the memory. I do remember fighting several with idle stability issues and this was the only fix and then driving to relearn.
It's a Ford, the Christmas gift that keeps on giving, and giving, and giving! Ready for PT 5.....🤑 Don't let it whoop you!
I had made comment on the first video about possible oil wicking to the ECU from the oil contaminated sensor plugs. Not totally uncommon in the euro cars originating from fouled cam sensor plugs. They even make pigtails to isolate the harness plugs from the sensors.
The extent of oil wicking can be shocking in how far it can get, can ruin an entire harness and ECU. May want to verify harness is clean, the wicking could have gotten to the O2s, evap, etc.
Just something to check.
Crazy failure cause! I also, noticed the first P2196 cause: water in the connector. Hmmmm. Ivan did find oil in a coolant sensor, pretty unusual. I think oil acts like an insulator and coolant or salty water is a pretty good conductor (before it promotes oxidation and contact failure as an open). The way the faults appear suggests to me an electrical failure. Just glad I'm not in Ivan's garage with this ;-)
In the late 90's GM spider poppet (junk) injectors would leak fuel and wick all the way back to ECM. Have pulled an ECM apart dripping with gasoline.
Ivan, Ford had a better idea don't you know. Feeling your pain. Thanks for Sharing! 🙃🙂
as soon as a i saw the rich code, i knew it was the purge solenoid. Replace a lot of them, most of the time it has a fuel tank lack of pressure code
Purge system or EVAP systems live a hard life and always fail. This vehicle is at that age and mileage to start there with tank pressure and purge valve.
Getting weirder by the day, Ivan! As if certain codes mask other codes, until they are solved, and then the masked codes appear. Resetting the KAM solved the problems? I guess we will have to wait until Christmas Eve, to get a present from Santa 🙂 On to Part 5!
I put in a high pressure pump that had failed in one, (low and erratic pressure) and it was 3 times the desired fuel pressure, clear codes reset KAM and drive it 20 minutes before it finally started bringing the fuel pressure down to what it said it desired.
I'm getting a horse and buggy for Christmas !
Merry Christmas!
Have you checked that ignition coil on cylinder 3 yet?
It could be seen sparking to the wiring harness in one of the previous videos.
That will cause the misfire and rich condition at times.
One of my friends installed a starter on a vehicle and actually shorted the main power to ground for just a second. Lots of codes came up and they were plenty of bad sensors afterwards, but the crazy fuel trims like that ended up being a bad catalytic converter. The gas is weren't able to pass through that converter very easily so they gathered up at the upstream O2 sensor and showed Rich so the computer was trying to reduce fuel so much that it was bottoming out at -25%
Ivan something that doesn’t cost but time;
1) Check each spark plug for color or wet
2) remove battery power- let it sit for an hour
3) clean that one way vacuum valve
l always enjoy your videos even though most of the electronics confuses me. i really felt bad for you with all the headaches this car gave you. i couldnt wait for you to find the problem
Hi Ivan, time to get out the scope and check to see if the cams are where they are supposed to be. maybe sticking
Yes we need some real scope action on this patient. Maybe an 8 channel scope, lol.
give it the basil treatment Basil's Car Gets A "Damn Good Thrashing" | Fawlty Towers
This ecoboost from hell is turning into a PHAD mini series. Looks like the pastries are never gonna get delivered😂
They be stale for sure 🤣
Rule out ethanol sensor fail by taking a fuel sample to test and verify alcohol percentage, if ok try reflashing ECU and see if any improvement updates available, last is replace ECU.
My Volvo V70 P2 had similar issues where it would have intermittent short term fuel trims of +/- 30%. At times it would drive just fine then randomly idle horribly and misfire. I replaced a few sensors, but it ended up being a semi-clogged PCV system.. One of the hoses was completely clogged.
Glad you didn't reveal it yet but taking a stab at it.....its the pcm. Thought that from the last video. Had a similar issue on a jeep where codes were not setting when they should have (ie sensors unplugged) and unexplainable fuel trims
This for van just likes you a lot better than the owner.
Super diagnoses, and no parts cannon
I remember resetting the kam on the old tortis ,freestar, expeditions after replacing the fuel filter. I believe the fuel pump driver module needed it to be cleared to relearn new fuel trims that aren’t skewed by a clogged fuel filter. Obviously not the case with this one but I’m almost thinking of a randomly failing frp sensor or something with the timing of the hpfp? Cool case study so far!
Merry Christmas happy holidays
Every Ford I've had with these problems has had a bad body ground next to the battery that needed cleaning or the large body to frame ground strap needed replacement. Even had the battery to engine block with 3 volts of voltage drop as the bolt was corroded and had to relocate that body strap. Low voltage on the O2 is lean, so thats why I mentioned it. Usually, when I have this many random codes, it's the computer.
If it's not too difficult I would suggest inspecting the ECU, especially after finding oil in the harness.
Direct injection turbo. Has it got carbon build up in inlet or egr
Thanks Ivan!
Ivan looks like a complete rebuild? Lemon.
We can't always get Motorcraft branded part but the Standard motor parts unit is re-boxed OE part which we have been able to get consistently
This EcoBroke is a nightmare. I'm glad my 16 F150 has a 5.0 engine
They're good engines, it's everything around them with the Ford Logo on it... That absolutely suck! The 2.0-2.3 Ecoboost was designed by Mazda not Ford and Mazda has it in the MazdaSpeed 3 one of the most reliable engines they ever made! But Ford! Stepped in and the first thing Ford did? Cheap everything in true American Corporate fashion! Lowered the quality to make more money! if you got an Ecoboost from 2016-2020 you will have a cylinder crack from Piston 2 that will leak coolant. Is not "if" but "when"..
My guess would be on air leak pressure or vacume making the calculated values incorrect. Causing the lambda sensor to compensate. And when its way out of spec the ecu shuts down the fuel to try to save engine from damage.
I've seen this happen first hand. Not on a Ford though. But my guess on the air leak is based on the sound. It literally sounds to me like the boost is leaking out.
What you can try is let the car idle for a very long time. My guess is that this only shows after throttle on or off. If it stays steady my theory is that the ecu compensates. But the swing from lean to rich is so much that the ecu tries to up the fuel pressure when it's lean. And then it overshoots and shuts down.
That's my train of thought. This is going to be fun to follow and see what it ens up being.
I had the same thought. These things do not have a traditional blow of valve, so you should not hear the boost.
Yeah,not surprising I mean it's a Ford!:)
When you rev it fuel pressure spikes up to over 1700 psi. Is that normal? Others have said cam follower for fuel pump can have issues. To satisfy myself, I would remove fuel pump and inspect all parts/surfaces. If clear that rules out that side of fuel pump. Otherwise this has me stumped as well. Will be curious as to what you find is the issue with this troublesome vehicle. Retired mechanic/machinist in Australia.
I’m wondering if we should make shirts that say what would Scotty do!!!!rev up your engines. I had a eco boost basically a no start loosened in take manifold it would start impeller wheel on turbo axle sheared.
I would go back to basics at this point, plugs , coils , injector drop test
If it's taking that much fuel away without missing it's getting fuel from somewhere. EVAP or PCV probably where I'd look 1st. My 4Runner had a rich condition at idle due to leaking aftermarket injectors.
This would’ve been a perfect one to call Eric O & have him come down for another collaboration video… 2 good heads are better than 1 as they say.
That was a funny sound ❤
I know someone who had a lot of commercial Ford vehicles. Never kept them over 100K
Good morning
Thanks for sharing
With the Cl and open loop, and the erratic stalling, smells like a PCM, and you are sure all the powers and grounds can hole the load,
You can scope the HP fuel pump connector to see if it’s commanded the way it’s behaving.
Hmm .. ECU .. volatile memory failing? .. powers and grounds?
I'm sticking with oil contaminated sensor wires causing all these issues.
I'll stick £10 on that one.
@@matthewmcmaster2731 which sensor should I check next?
Checking connections in the area of the connections that did have contamination would be a good idea. Does this Ford use common grounds or reference supply that is being randomly skewed or causing errors on the sensor signal? Similarly a flaky solenoid (purge, timing, fuel pressure, injector, EGR, etc) could be the issue..... A fun one for the viewers and a hair puller for Ivan.
Is there a way to bypass the purge valve and keep the ecu happy? After that, do we check injector leak down? Im not sure how you would on a high pressure system...@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics That's the million dollar question isn't it. The problem with oil contamination is perfectly good sensors will give you random false readings. Simply replacing them won't fix the issue. You'll never stop chasing your tail (sounds familiar). It comes down to, is the vehicle worth the cost and effort to eliminate that variable? If you don't, you could end up spending more replacing perfectly good parts.
ivan there is a ford bulletin regarding bad splices in the harness causing that map code to set and same driveability problems you are having
It will go In open loop fault on some cars when trims max out