I see a lot of this model of jointer for sale on the web ,and some of them are extremely rusted . This one looks to be in very good condition which makes a restoration much easier . Great job on this project.
I came by one of these a few years ago. MIssing the stand, motor, fence and the guard is broken, Broke it out and started cleaning. Having a stand fabricated, and bought a new motor and pulley. Will mimic your steps for polishing the table. Hope I can locate a fence assembly!
"18 minutes? No way I am going to watch this whole thing. I'll watch like 2 minutes worth skipping through..." (18 minutes and 40 seconds later) "Totally worth it!"
Great video. Any chance you give me some more details on your rust removal process for the cast iron top. Can you walk me through the steps from about 6:30 to 9:30? I have the exact same jointer and am hoping to restore it.
He appears to be using this www.lowes.com/pd/blaster-11-oz-pb16/1268993?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tah-_-google-_-lia-_--_-tools-lubricants-_-1268993-_-0&kpid&store_code=3104&k_clickID=go_625706834_34613749750_111132558550_pla-258966219319_t_9026808&gclid=CjwKCAiAy-_iBRAaEiwAYhSlA0Ja9a2y6MjWNg5DvUgWIjFzd2r3JsbSHtKVKoGKSJmuu67t7IBX-hoCWfsQAvD_BwE
@@mld962 I think that is barkeeper's friend www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend-Powdered-12-Ounces/dp/B000V72992/ref=sr_1_10?hvadid=241602131960&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9030029&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=12899538183437638985&hvtargid=kwd-362147755&keywords=barkeepers%2Bfriend&qid=1552521258&s=gateway&sr=8-10&tag=googhydr-20&th=1
I'm getting ready to do the same on mine. Was hoping to see the cutter head removed from the bearings. Didn't see you clean it up in the video, did you leave the rust on it?
My father inlaw gifted me this exact model. Trying to learn and understand how to use it now. I need to find the guard as he made one out of wood. it works but not ideal.
Your restoration came out amazing! I have a slightly older model that I need to clean up the same way. What type and color paint did you use? It looks like it’s almost an exact match.
I recently did a similar restoration on a little older model. I found out that the out feed table had a small lip at the cutter head which had to be ground down. Took the opportunity to remove the cutting tool marks. I may have over done it a bit though - the out feed table almost has a mirror finish now. Great job, though I do wish you had some sort of narrative -- or maybe some music to help with the 18 minutes.
Yeah, I have noticed that the wood will sometimes catch on the outfeed table despite it being level with the cutterhead. Maybe I need to grind a bevel on it. This was my first video so narration was above my skill level at the time :) Thanks for your feedback though.
Great job... but with no commentary whatsoever in the video and lots of questions in the comment section with no replies, this video doesn't really help me. I have more questions than answers
Yeah it might be a little big. I might try and get something smaller. Maybe 1 1/2 might be good. I want to have something that won`t bog down on the work. Thanks for the reply.!!!!
Awesome! I've had the same model for a while now. I only spent time re-furbing the top and fence. Hey, did you ever try finding a helical cutter head for this model?
@@GeminiWoodworks Good advice! I have my jointer tuned perfectly resulting in absolutely 0 snipe and I suppose the knives on these are dirt cheap so there's no good reason to go HH! Thanks
Looks good! I just picked up one of these jointers on Craigslist and this video has really helped me out. Did you need to replace the belt or the blades on this?
Both actually. The blades were dull and rusty, and the belt sat still for so long it was warped. A new belt reduces vibration so I'd recommend for sure.
Search Amazon for HSS Jointer Blades 6 1/8". Readily available. Mine were made by Powertec, but any brand will do. It's probably the most common size on a very popular jointer.
Like he said, PowerTec are great, they're 6 1/8 and recommended on Sear's site for replacements (since Sears no longer makes them). I spent a couple of hours replacing/fine-tuning mine last night. Mostly reading, re-reading, and 80% of the time on the first knife :P.
Is PB blaster better than WD 40? Also, does the motor need lubing? I guess I'll check the manual on that one. I just picked one up from a swap meet for 25$ Its a 4 inch Craftsman and runs pretty good. Same issues with rust though. Looks like its 40 years old and weighs a ton!
+Slap Stick They are the same thing essentially...so use what you have. It helps break down rust, and keeps your scotch brite from clogging up. Turn the motor on, and if it's reasonably quiet you probably don't need to do anything to it.
This might sound odd, but do you have a video of normal speed for this? I have the exact same joiner as you and I am missing a TON of hardware. Im new to working and really kind of confused on what to do/what I need. I acquired it at an estate sale and it looks like someone who had no idea, like me, tried to put it back together again with some non original hardware...any help would be much appreciated brother. Thanks.
I don't unfortunately. I would suggest googling the manual. It breaks it down into all the parts you need. If you see a part you need you can search Amazon. It's a very common jointer so parts are easy to get.
I got the same jointer from my brother who got it from an estate sale. I don`t have the stand and I bought a motor for it. How much power is your motor and what is the RPM? The motor I bought is a 3460RPM and 3hp.
+Gemini Woodworks I did a restore on the same model a few years ago. As far as motor size, I dropped a 1/2 hp in and toasted that one pretty quick. Tough to fined a 1750 rpm sometimes but did buy one from Grizzly and its a 3/4 hp on the second try. Works perfect. If you want more speed, change the pulleys. Suggest after all the clean up work on the table beds, wax it with car wax to prevent the surface rust from coming back. Especially in a damp basement shop.
Meh, it was about 2-3 hours of work. I sold it for $275 (more than double what I paid), and it was good practice for the other tools I've restored with no real risk.
Nice job! Could you tell my the specs on the motor? I just purchased the same model without the motor and I want to replace it with something comparable.
+Andluth I have since sold it (for over 2 times what I bought it for) because it was tuned up and worked great. Solid entry level jointer, but not sufficient for what I want. I just saw an opportunity to buy a cheap rusty tool and fix it up and sell it to somebody who needed one. Was a great value for the person who bought it compared to buying new...
You didn't show replacing the 50+ year old dried up bearings. Or cleaning, inspecting and repacking them. A rust stop primer paint would help stop the rust and keep the topcoat stuck in place. Otherwise it looks good, but not really a restored jointer.
Folks, I don't see an answer from the author, so I am going to hazard an educated guess: it looks like he is using Bar Keepers Friend powder in conjunction with a Scotch-Brite pad under his random orbit sander. I have done the same to bring old table saws back to life. You can see he also applies some sort of Loctite product, probably a silicone spray lube to slick it up and prevent corrosion. Happy restoring!
That's one of the worst jointers a hobbyist can own.The outfeed table is not adjustable the gibs that hold the knife are prone to letting go and throwing knifes.For a jointer to cut right the knives need to be set a hair about the outfeed table.Soon after that's done they will loose their edge and need to be reset.I really wonder why craftsman made that machine?Don't ever buy a jointer without a adjustable outfeed.
I inherited one of these and, so far, haven't experienced any of the problems you describe (doesn't mean I won't). Could the problem be solved with custom-cut knives that are a bit longer from the edge to the back of the knife, to compensate for the lack of outfeed adjustability? I realize you'd likely have to go to a mill work shop that makes custom knives/profiles, but it seems a flat jointer blade ... relative to their custom profiles ... shouldn't cost too much.
Just bought a set of knives no problem but adjusting in feed table and getting it to stay accurate not so much don’t think it’s worth the trouble these were never a good jointer
I see a lot of this model of jointer for sale on the web ,and some of them are extremely rusted . This one looks to be in very good condition which makes a restoration much easier . Great job on this project.
I came by one of these a few years ago. MIssing the stand, motor, fence and the guard is broken, Broke it out and started cleaning. Having a stand fabricated, and bought a new motor and pulley. Will mimic your steps for polishing the table. Hope I can locate a fence assembly!
I just picked one of these up for $150, about the same starting condition. Great job
its awesome seeing someone showing their tools some love! take care of your tools and they will take care of you. Great work man!
nice! which powder/sand paper or pad you used to remove the rust please?
Man u did a great job! Just bought one like yours, seems like a solid machine! Again great job!!!!
I just bought the same model. I’m excited to clean it up.
Just bought one and your restoration is awesome!!
"18 minutes? No way I am going to watch this whole thing. I'll watch like 2 minutes worth skipping through..." (18 minutes and 40 seconds later) "Totally worth it!"
Barkeeps Friend, that's what I like for my cutterhead bearings!
This is actually a pretty nice tool for the home workshop, nice restoration.
Yes it is. I've bought 3 of these over the years. I always restore and sell only to buy another one lol. They are everywhere.
Great video. Any chance you give me some more details on your rust removal process for the cast iron top. Can you walk me through the steps from about 6:30 to 9:30? I have the exact same jointer and am hoping to restore it.
Seriously, thats the only part i cant figure out for myself.
He used Lubricant (like WD40) and baking soda
He appears to be using this www.lowes.com/pd/blaster-11-oz-pb16/1268993?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tah-_-google-_-lia-_--_-tools-lubricants-_-1268993-_-0&kpid&store_code=3104&k_clickID=go_625706834_34613749750_111132558550_pla-258966219319_t_9026808&gclid=CjwKCAiAy-_iBRAaEiwAYhSlA0Ja9a2y6MjWNg5DvUgWIjFzd2r3JsbSHtKVKoGKSJmuu67t7IBX-hoCWfsQAvD_BwE
@@mld962 I think that is barkeeper's friend www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend-Powdered-12-Ounces/dp/B000V72992/ref=sr_1_10?hvadid=241602131960&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9030029&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=12899538183437638985&hvtargid=kwd-362147755&keywords=barkeepers%2Bfriend&qid=1552521258&s=gateway&sr=8-10&tag=googhydr-20&th=1
@@wordhomiegdog I think it was just Ajax
Looks great, I have the same model. I am tempted to spruce it up like this...
I'm getting ready to do the same on mine. Was hoping to see the cutter head removed from the bearings. Didn't see you clean it up in the video, did you leave the rust on it?
My father inlaw gifted me this exact model. Trying to learn and understand how to use it now. I need to find the guard as he made one out of wood. it works but not ideal.
Your restoration came out amazing! I have a slightly older model that I need to clean up the same way. What type and color paint did you use? It looks like it’s almost an exact match.
Veeps' Garage I would like to know that too
I would have liked you to show the leveling of the bed. And checking and correcting if not 90 degrees to fence. But, thank you for the video.
Looks brand new. Great job!
I recently did a similar restoration on a little older model. I found out that the out feed table had a small lip at the cutter head which had to be ground down. Took the opportunity to remove the cutting tool marks. I may have over done it a bit though - the out feed table almost has a mirror finish now. Great job, though I do wish you had some sort of narrative -- or maybe some music to help with the 18 minutes.
Yeah, I have noticed that the wood will sometimes catch on the outfeed table despite it being level with the cutterhead. Maybe I need to grind a bevel on it.
This was my first video so narration was above my skill level at the time :) Thanks for your feedback though.
It does that if your knives aren't high enough (.03, sheet of paper height above the outfeed table). Too high and it'll gouge at the end of the work.
Great job... but with no commentary whatsoever in the video and lots of questions in the comment section with no replies, this video doesn't really help me. I have more questions than answers
Was it the table surface or the fence that has a dip in it?
Well done, that last for ever
Great vid. I'm looking to get a similar model, do you happen to know how long is the infeed and outfeed table?
Yeah it might be a little big. I might try and get something smaller. Maybe 1 1/2 might be good. I want to have something that won`t bog down on the work. Thanks for the reply.!!!!
Awesome video great work
Comet and scotch pad make a nice couple..
What was the powder all about? what about the plane? Was that just to make it flat again?
The powder was for polishing. It was actually bar keeper's friend. The plane was to apply downward force that was perfectly flat.
Awesome! I've had the same model for a while now. I only spent time re-furbing the top and fence. Hey, did you ever try finding a helical cutter head for this model?
Do not waste your money on a HH cutter for this jointer...find a better jointer and then upgrade that.
@@GeminiWoodworks Good advice! I have my jointer tuned perfectly resulting in absolutely 0 snipe and I suppose the knives on these are dirt cheap so there's no good reason to go HH! Thanks
Would you mind listing what products you used on the bed?
Did you take the cutterhead out??????????? You don't show that in the video...
This guy does...ruclips.net/video/B_ShblSlV04/видео.html
Could you please do something about the sound track.
Looks good! I just picked up one of these jointers on Craigslist and this video has really helped me out. Did you need to replace the belt or the blades on this?
Both actually. The blades were dull and rusty, and the belt sat still for so long it was warped. A new belt reduces vibration so I'd recommend for sure.
Gemini Woodworks Do you get any 6 inch jointer blades or did you get a specific type?
Search Amazon for HSS Jointer Blades 6 1/8". Readily available. Mine were made by Powertec, but any brand will do. It's probably the most common size on a very popular jointer.
Like he said, PowerTec are great, they're 6 1/8 and recommended on Sear's site for replacements (since Sears no longer makes them).
I spent a couple of hours replacing/fine-tuning mine last night. Mostly reading, re-reading, and 80% of the time on the first knife :P.
Ps. They're about $15 online for a set of 3 HSS also, not sure on carbides.
What was the spray and powder used? What sandpaper grit?
Is PB blaster better than WD 40? Also, does the motor need lubing? I guess I'll check the manual on that one. I just picked one up from a swap meet for 25$ Its a 4 inch Craftsman and runs pretty good. Same issues with rust though. Looks like its 40 years old and weighs a ton!
+Slap Stick They are the same thing essentially...so use what you have. It helps break down rust, and keeps your scotch brite from clogging up. Turn the motor on, and if it's reasonably quiet you probably don't need to do anything to it.
Gemini Woodworks Cool beans. Thanks.
This might sound odd, but do you have a video of normal speed for this? I have the exact same joiner as you and I am missing a TON of hardware. Im new to working and really kind of confused on what to do/what I need. I acquired it at an estate sale and it looks like someone who had no idea, like me, tried to put it back together again with some non original hardware...any help would be much appreciated brother. Thanks.
I don't unfortunately. I would suggest googling the manual. It breaks it down into all the parts you need. If you see a part you need you can search Amazon. It's a very common jointer so parts are easy to get.
what kinda grit sand paper did you use does any
body know
Hi Milton, In earlier comments and replies, he said he used 220 grit.
Which paint color/brand did you go with for the "grey"
How did you remove the blades im having hell with mine
What grit did you sand the base with? time 1:30
He dont say what he used to remove the rust but i think is W-40 and baking soda
where did you get the new blades having trouble finding some for mine? thanks
Search Amazon for HSS Jointer Blades 6 1/8". Readily available. Mine were made by Powertec.
Thank you
Clean job
Mine needs a new belt. Got any specs on a new one?
1904- Just go to your settings, you can play this at 1/4 speed if you want.
Nice job you’re doing, can you give me the specs on the motor? I have one without a motor.
Late for you, but might help someone else:
Model 113.12161
HP 1/2 Continuous
RPM 3450
Frame C56Z
What did you spray the top with? The video was so fast I couldn’t see what it was
WD-40
I got the same jointer from my brother who got it from an estate sale. I don`t have the stand and I bought a motor for it. How much power is your motor and what is the RPM? The motor I bought is a 3460RPM and 3hp.
+michael leblanc That motor is way bigger than necessary for a jointer this small. Mine is 1750 RPM and 3/4 HP.
+Gemini Woodworks I did a restore on the same model a few years ago. As far as motor size, I dropped a 1/2 hp in and toasted that one pretty quick. Tough to fined a 1750 rpm sometimes but did buy one from Grizzly and its a 3/4 hp on the second try. Works perfect. If you want more speed, change the pulleys. Suggest after all the clean up work on the table beds, wax it with car wax to prevent the surface rust from coming back. Especially in a damp basement shop.
I have one just like it that I’m working on Nice job but was it worth it on a jointer that wasn’t very good when it was new
Meh, it was about 2-3 hours of work. I sold it for $275 (more than double what I paid), and it was good practice for the other tools I've restored with no real risk.
@@GeminiWoodworks I no I get it . I’d feel bad selling mine to someone who doesn’t no
Nice job! Could you tell my the specs on the motor? I just purchased the same model without the motor and I want to replace it with something comparable.
1750 RPM and 3/4 HP
Thanks!
Model 113.12161
HP 1/2 Continuous
RPM 3450
Frame C56Z
This from the original motor.
What are your over opinions of it now that you have it restored?
+Andluth I have since sold it (for over 2 times what I bought it for) because it was tuned up and worked great. Solid entry level jointer, but not sufficient for what I want. I just saw an opportunity to buy a cheap rusty tool and fix it up and sell it to somebody who needed one. Was a great value for the person who bought it compared to buying new...
is it for sale,i am looking for one of these.
Go Tribe!!!
great job cleaning up the bed. But not a restoration. There was still old electrical tape on the power cord for cryin' out loud!
I just got an older jointer that looks similar. I would like to know what you used to remove the rust. Thanks.
A combination of PB blaster, bar keepers friend, scotch brite pad, and 220 grit sand paper. Oh, and lots of elbow grease.
Thanks!
You didn't show replacing the 50+ year old dried up bearings. Or cleaning, inspecting and repacking them.
A rust stop primer paint would help stop the rust and keep the topcoat stuck in place.
Otherwise it looks good, but not really a restored jointer.
When someone paints their house, do you also ask them why they didn't replace the plumbing? Lol...
Realy cool
What is the powder in the can?
Folks, I don't see an answer from the author, so I am going to hazard an educated guess: it looks like he is using Bar Keepers Friend powder in conjunction with a Scotch-Brite pad under his random orbit sander. I have done the same to bring old table saws back to life. You can see he also applies some sort of Loctite product, probably a silicone spray lube to slick it up and prevent corrosion. Happy restoring!
@@j.stribling2565 that can has an opening like Ajax
Have to watch this muted, because the sped up music affects my sensory perceptions…
That's one of the worst jointers a hobbyist can own.The outfeed table is not adjustable the gibs that hold the knife are prone to letting go and throwing knifes.For a jointer to cut right the knives need to be set a hair about the outfeed table.Soon after that's done they will loose their edge and need to be reset.I really wonder why craftsman made that machine?Don't ever buy a jointer without a adjustable outfeed.
I inherited one of these and, so far, haven't experienced any of the problems you describe (doesn't mean I won't). Could the problem be solved with custom-cut knives that are a bit longer from the edge to the back of the knife, to compensate for the lack of outfeed adjustability? I realize you'd likely have to go to a mill work shop that makes custom knives/profiles, but it seems a flat jointer blade ... relative to their custom profiles ... shouldn't cost too much.
Just bought a set of knives no problem but adjusting in feed table and getting it to stay accurate not so much don’t think it’s worth the trouble these were never a good jointer
Very. Boring
Why bother showing the solvents you used when you speed up the video and can't see them? Useless! 👎👎👎
What color paint did you use?
+Austin Lewis www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Painter-s-Touch-2X-12-oz-Dark-Gray-Gloss-General-Purpose-Spray-Paint-6-Pack-249115/202058696
It was pretty close to the original color...but not exact.