Yeah, I've got a sleeping baby and had to turn this off because the transitions are ridiculous. You don't need them at all. Slightly better than the shit guitar riff from before, but just loose them entirely, they don't add anything but annoyance.
Great idea for a series, thanks. One thing I would add; keep a roll of white grip tape (not duct tape) near the metal. Mark the material I.D. on the tape, and stick it to the individual piece. I have had other marks rub off very quickly, or slowly where I use the material very infrequently. This is especially useful if you use salvage materials, with a known type, but little else to remember it by (cut up old saw blades, old plane irons, etc.). I have an old chunk of commercial paper shear... very nice, very hard, but deferentially hardened and laminated... not a steel for everything.
To this comprehensive and excellent list I would only add 5160, which I use all the time to make that one fiddly little tool I need to finish a specific part of a job.
I get most of my stock from people that are wanting to getting rid of scraps. I rarely pay for it that way because I'm helping them out and they appreciate it. 😊 Win win.
This video is awesome thanks as always Walter. Just in the finishing stages of setting up my first/new shop and this will give me a great shopping list for my first trip to the metal supply store!
It's an amazing hobby, or job if you're lucky. Be ready to throw the first few away. The learning curve can seem like a mountain but the view from the top is sweet, or so I'm told
Thanks! I’m more than ready to make several pieces of rubbish before having anything worth looking at! But, it looks like fun, and that’s the point, eh?
A suggestion/request. Can you for a video for the absolute beginner grinding/sanding their first knife? What's the order of work? Cleaning the steal, anieling, forming the shape, heat treating, quenching, grinding/sanding, normalizing the blade, handle, finish? Where do I find the anieling, heat treating and normalizing temps for 01 and D2? Hand books and papers but none provide an actual sequence. Would like learning the proper sequence from you. Thank you.
Mr. Sorrells, thanks for this; this is very informative and useful. Here are my go to suplliers: McMaster Carr, MSC, Grainger, Metal Supermarkets, you can get all you need at these places.
Is it odd to be a Metalhead who also likes to work with metal while listening to metal who also plays metal on a metal guitar? I didn't think so! Jokes aside, my favorite is 1040c steel! Another is nickel silver, I love how nice it polishes up for bolster's!
Hey Walter, i really love your content. Do you have experience in grinding the urasuki on single bevelled japanese chef knives? If you could make a video about that, that would really be useful. Greetings from germany!
I'm still kinda just getting started. but I use a angle grinder and a c clamp. I assume I will end up having to buy a belt grinder before I can really sell stuff.
You say:'' there is ton of uses for this''. (the different metals) Your experience in the different uses must be extensive, it would be nice if you gave us some examples. Really curious about them.
Every one is banging on about these cheap Chinese D2 blades atm, your views? HSS tool blanks, i take it you have to be careful grinding it so you don't take away the hardness? Great video!!!
I have a Ganzo D2 blade. It reads 60 on my hardness tester but doesn't perform the same as a spyderco in the same hardness. Their heat treat is cutting some serious corners and not allowing those carbides to form properly.
As a weld inspector my reflex reaction was 100x worse.. hes an awesome knife maker, but man dont let him near an electrode.. in all fareness he would probably say the same about my knife making.. hahah
Great content as usual. Mr. Sorrells, do you have anything to say about brass knife guards? According to the non extensive research I have done, no brass can be trusted to be lead free, even if that label is put on it. Making it yourself (melting zinc and copper) also exposes you to cadmium potentially present in all zinc alloys. My only relatively safe option seems to be to make some aluminum brass myself from pure AL and pure copper. Thanks for your channel which never stops being useful.
@@dylanholderman I am constructing a knife for myself and among the uses it will have there is food preparation. Certain manufacturers state that in normal conditions, and in solid form, brass doesn't represent a danger in terms of exposure to toxic materials, no matter the presence of certain levels of lead in the alloy, ( they do recognize the presence of this metal in brass alloy). I cannot make a wise desition on the basis of what I know, I would need advice from someone more educated on this matter, and the reason I botter to ask is because brass looks amazing on knifes in my opinion.
@@davidemmanuelsegundorubio9081 you should be fine with any lead free brass. even the leaded brass only go's up to 3.5% if it's sold as lead free brass any lead present should be in trace amounts that wont affect anything (you're probably exposed to higher lead levels just from the environment)
@@dylanholderman I think you have a point Dylan, we aren't talking about massive amounts of exposure. Thank you for taking the time to respond, I will consider all options but brass should be just fine.
good advice! I don't throw anything away unless it's small enough to be hard to pick up... cheers!
Merry Christmas! Hope that you and your family enjoy the season.
Very useful video, specially because you talk about the most common sizes.
Just an observation, the transitions are louder than the rest of the video.
I concur with this comment.
I had to continue turn up and down my volume, as not to blow out my ear drums. (ear bud user)
Yeah, I've got a sleeping baby and had to turn this off because the transitions are ridiculous. You don't need them at all. Slightly better than the shit guitar riff from before, but just loose them entirely, they don't add anything but annoyance.
always someone picking fly shit out of the pepper.
Great idea for a series, thanks. One thing I would add; keep a roll of white grip tape (not duct tape) near the metal. Mark the material I.D. on the tape, and stick it to the individual piece. I have had other marks rub off very quickly, or slowly where I use the material very infrequently. This is especially useful if you use salvage materials, with a known type, but little else to remember it by (cut up old saw blades, old plane irons, etc.). I have an old chunk of commercial paper shear... very nice, very hard, but deferentially hardened and laminated... not a steel for everything.
Great video sir...really learned the various uses of what I need in my shop
Thanks for sharing your experience and insight.
Quite handy! Very practical tips. Thanks for putting this together. Looking forward to more!
To this comprehensive and excellent list I would only add 5160, which I use all the time to make that one fiddly little tool I need to finish a specific part of a job.
I get most of my stock from people that are wanting to getting rid of scraps. I rarely pay for it that way because I'm helping them out and they appreciate it. 😊 Win win.
This video is awesome thanks as always Walter. Just in the finishing stages of setting up my first/new shop and this will give me a great shopping list for my first trip to the metal supply store!
Really useful info. Planning to make my first knife next week ...
It's an amazing hobby, or job if you're lucky. Be ready to throw the first few away. The learning curve can seem like a mountain but the view from the top is sweet, or so I'm told
Thanks!
I’m more than ready to make several pieces of rubbish before having anything worth looking at! But, it looks like fun, and that’s the point, eh?
@@seeingthepattern yes, thats the point!😁
Good luck man
👍🏻
Things like al plate, rebar, angle, can be found at metal recyclers. Not all will let you rummage through their bins, but some will.
A suggestion/request. Can you for a video for the absolute beginner grinding/sanding their first knife? What's the order of work? Cleaning the steal, anieling, forming the shape, heat treating, quenching, grinding/sanding, normalizing the blade, handle, finish? Where do I find the anieling, heat treating and normalizing temps for 01 and D2? Hand books and papers but none provide an actual sequence. Would like learning the proper sequence from you. Thank you.
I don't buy brass tube. I use .223 cases and cut the necks and bases off then chamfer the inside edges.
Thanks for the tips.
Who could dislike this?
Mr. Sorrells, thanks for this; this is very informative and useful. Here are my go to suplliers:
McMaster Carr, MSC, Grainger, Metal Supermarkets, you can get all you need at these places.
Is it odd to be a Metalhead who also likes to work with metal while listening to metal who also plays metal on a metal guitar?
I didn't think so!
Jokes aside, my favorite is 1040c steel! Another is nickel silver, I love how nice it polishes up for bolster's!
Extremely informative, thank you
Hey Walter, i really love your content.
Do you have experience in grinding the urasuki on single bevelled japanese chef knives?
If you could make a video about that, that would really be useful.
Greetings from germany!
Good stuff man, but your transitions are about twice as loud as they need to be!
It would be nice to have a small shop to start making knives.
Next week on shop hacks: turning olf t shirts into rags to reduce our dependence on paper towels.
I like paint markers for labeling steel.
Great Tutorial, Thank You. Dirk
Great tips!
This was great! Thank you 👊
Thanks Walter!
Have you ever used a 1x30 grinder for knifemaking and do you think it is worth having for a hobbyist?
I have used one but the motor bogs down very easily. Spend a little more on a 2-42 and you won't be sorry.
I'm still kinda just getting started. but I use a angle grinder and a c clamp. I assume I will end up having to buy a belt grinder before I can really sell stuff.
Thanks for sharing that
is it just me or does anyone else hear rain in the background?
I am in Seattle. It is raining hard here right now.
I just watched this the second time and realised that, yes, I can hear rain.
I was going to comment the same thing.
No, but I still hear the voices.
Please get rid of that new bullet point sound effect Walter, thanks.
Thanks for another incredibly informative video too :) x
I may be a beginner knife maker, but I have already collected that metal for building rifles.
Nice
You say:'' there is ton of uses for this''. (the different metals)
Your experience in the different uses must be extensive, it would be nice if you gave us some examples.
Really curious about them.
Thank you sir!!
Every one is banging on about these cheap Chinese D2 blades atm, your views? HSS tool blanks, i take it you have to be careful grinding it so you don't take away the hardness? Great video!!!
I have a Ganzo D2 blade. It reads 60 on my hardness tester but doesn't perform the same as a spyderco in the same hardness. Their heat treat is cutting some serious corners and not allowing those carbides to form properly.
I almost threw up when I saw those welds at 3:17 ;)
As a weld inspector my reflex reaction was 100x worse.. hes an awesome knife maker, but man dont let him near an electrode.. in all fareness he would probably say the same about my knife making.. hahah
i have trouble knowing what the material is worth. espcialy when buying from a homegamer
Great video. Transitions are way too loud though.
Great content as usual. Mr. Sorrells, do you have anything to say about brass knife guards? According to the non extensive research I have done, no brass can be trusted to be lead free, even if that label is put on it. Making it yourself (melting zinc and copper) also exposes you to cadmium potentially present in all zinc alloys. My only relatively safe option seems to be to make some aluminum brass myself from pure AL and pure copper. Thanks for your channel which never stops being useful.
what are you using it for that you're worried about the lead/cadmium?
@@dylanholderman I am constructing a knife for myself and among the uses it will have there is food preparation. Certain manufacturers state that in normal conditions, and in solid form, brass doesn't represent a danger in terms of exposure to toxic materials, no matter the presence of certain levels of lead in the alloy, ( they do recognize the presence of this metal in brass alloy). I cannot make a wise desition on the basis of what I know, I would need advice from someone more educated on this matter, and the reason I botter to ask is because brass looks amazing on knifes in my opinion.
@@davidemmanuelsegundorubio9081 you should be fine with any lead free brass. even the leaded brass only go's up to 3.5%
if it's sold as lead free brass any lead present should be in trace amounts that wont affect anything (you're probably exposed to higher lead levels just from the environment)
@@dylanholderman I think you have a point Dylan, we aren't talking about massive amounts of exposure. Thank you for taking the time to respond, I will consider all options but brass should be just fine.
How about r2 d2.
I’ll leave now. 🤪
May the schwartz be with you
Lol thought that too!
I'm glad that I'm not the only weirdo who thought this. 🤣🤣
That's hilarious LMAO
#2 REBAR a MILLION uses. He lists one. okay.
why some you tubers use white background to hurt viewers eyes with all those brightness. ???
Oops. Sorrells
You can edit your comments, you know. ;-)