How to add risers to existing stairs
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- Опубликовано: 4 мар 2020
- Do your stairs have open risers (the part under each tread)? My basement stairs did, and that made the stairs inconvenient (when you drop things, they fall under the stairs) and dangerous (my smallest child could fit right through the staircase!).
In this video, I demonstrate cutting a 1x8" board to size, pre-drilling three pocket holes and three regular holes, then screwing it into the treads. This should work for any staircase with wood treads and a little bit of a 'nose' or overhang on each tread.
Mentioned in the video - Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System: amzn.to/2VPz7n8 (though you can fasten the boards another way if you don't want to use pocket holes!). 
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Thank you, I think this tutorial is just what I need. I'm so tired of dust and stuff from our shoes falling and getting all over the stuff I have stored under the stair case.
Thanks. This vid is exactly what I wss looking for.
Jeff, you have a great YT channel! Thanks for your work here. david
Thanks this helped me a lot!
Thanks! Needed this video!
Thank you. Excellent information and instructions. Felt overwhelmed with project - after your video - feel confident I can do this...
Hope the project goes (or went!) well!
Me toooooo! Omg this is the best video
Thanks, just what I was looking for. I wonder also if it’s code compliant, but also wonder if after putting some simple risers in, it would be easy to put some “cap-a-tread” or similar system to make it look oretty
Thank you so much !
Thanks. I like the pocket screw. One question though. How are you going to screw in the last few bottom steps?
I wonder if there could be a code compliance issue with the risers being attached between the stringers instead of on the face like they’re usually done originally. Also I wonder if another way to fasten the risers would be to add blocking to the stringers, and then nail the risers to the blocks.
Thank u so much
This video looks exactly like my basement right now with the kids mini trampoline in the background! Lol
Found another parent, lol!
It would have been better to sink screws through the stair treads unto the riser rather than using pocket screws. Also, on a span that wide to use 4 screws. Finally, 2 or 3 triangular blocks on the underside of each tread and riser to tie them together should minimise any future squeaking and creeking in the years to come.
Where did you get those safety glasses?
Great video, Jeff! I need to do the same thing. What length/size of wood screws did you use?
I believe I was using 1.5" for the horizontal screws (straight through the back), and 2" for the pocket hole screws. I just wanted to make sure they were long enough to get enough holding power (I've accidentally kicked some of these risers pretty hard and they don't budge!), but not so long the tips poke through the tread, causing major ouchies when going up and down the stairs!
Thanks Jeff!
Help do they squeak at all or sound normal when walk up and down?
Thanks 😁
You're welcome!
hi jeff question,
can you also glue the top instead of screws, omsat that moss can touch the stairs?
Glue would likely work okay, but I like physical fasteners anywhere feet are involved... I've accidentally kicked the risers a few times since installing and I'm not sure only glue would hold up over a long period of time, especially since wood stairs are slightly flexible as you use them.
What size screw for the pocketholes?
What was the estimated cost of doing this yourself? Thanks! Excellent vid
I think all-in it was about $120 at the time (for the wood, the box of screws, and the Kreg Jig (got it half off on sale).
The wood is probably a bit more expensive now, and that price assumes you already have a drill and tape measure!
I’d like to understand how to use that pocket jig
No flexible glue/kit on the top of the board to prevent creaks? Just a question, as I am going to close my stairs soon as well.
It's not too bad, actually-a few years later only one of the stairs really creaks, and it was one that did so before! Since the stairs are so old and bent out of shape anyway, they don't line up perfectly anywhere, so not a lot of long surfaces that are aligned that could squeak as much.
I would probably glue too, if I were building this into a nicer set of stairs. Someday I hope to redo the whole flight once I finish more of the basement, though.
Thanks, McLovin
I just moved into this house and the stairs were just done but are left unfinished which is no problem! What IS a problem is that the risers don’t meet every tread. Should I just caulk the 1/2” gaps before painting and staining?
1/2" is a bit much; if it's that wide I might consider tacking in thin strips of wood so the caulk doesn't have to try filling such a wide chasm!
@@JeffGeerling I was thinking of concealing the monstrosities with coving 🤮 that’s a much better suggestion and hecka fast! Impressed you replied honestly! Thank you and have a great night! 😁
@@JeffGeerling or I guess cove nosing 🙈
@@heresjohnny23.7 That could work too, though you'd have to have a pretty thin strip so it doesn't interfere with the nose of the treads! You have a great night too 😆
Never thought Tom Green would be showing me how to install risers..
Someone called me Tom green once
That was me, just now…
@@timange124 I had a goaty and was younger. See Tom Green feeds a snake.
@@hannesRSA oh I know about Tim Green feeding a snake lol
Why not just temporarily remove the treads and put in full height caps on the face, then put the treads back? That is how it would have been done had they put caps on it to begin with, would have taken much less time and would not be so susceptible to getting knocked out by an errant foot in a large boot.
always scares me when people use heavy machinery/power drills in deck shoes or flip-flops, you only get one body, spare parts are obsolete from manufacturer
You could have made a sliding jig for a perfect measurement and no need for cork
CAVERN1234 the jig is a good idea. I always seem to be too addicted to the tape measure on some projects... next time :)