Alexander McQueen | Autumn/Winter 2017 | Runway Show
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- INSPIRATION
The collection is inspired by pagan landscapes, creative communities and ancient traditions of Cornwall particularly the “Cloutie” Trees. These spiritual trees are places of pilgrimage, their branches and twigs adorned with colourful ribbons and personal treasures representing the hopes and dreams of those who tied them.
THE COLLECTION
A fluid, elongated silhouette dominates. Edges are often kept raw. Medieval armour deconstructed and reinvented in their softest incarnations. Patch and pieced work, cross-stitching and naïve embroideries of flora and fauna - curative herbs, wild strawberries, English meadow flowers, baby deer and hares make their way across pashmina weight cashmere.
Gold and silver eyelets with trailing coloured lacing, resembling the ‘Cloutie’ ribbons, are applied in a feminine way on delicate engineered knits and washed leathers. The ‘Wishing Tree’ inspired tweed is shot through with bright coloured twisted yarns and chiffon strips of fuchsia, crimson and lichen green. Tailoring and tuxedos in soft black and grey cashmere felt with a discreet leather edge or draped like blankets around the body are worn with wide-legged trousers. Exploded shearling coat and jacket studded with gold or silver biker hardware elements.
Cross-stitching in the collection inspired by medieval needlework samplers from the 16th & 17th century are embroidered on denim, tulle and cashmere voile and finished with silk trailing threads, recalling the Lady of Shallot. Gossamer silk knit and ribbed knit dresses reference Queen Guinevere’s soft armour. Some have tiered pleats with contrasting coloured tips while others are juxtaposed with knitted panels of gold metallic yarns as fine as angel hair.
Silk dresses engineered and printed in cross-stitch squares with lace borders and a richly worked jacquard with panels of medieval flowers and decorative damasks, defined by red feather stitching, explores the idea of piece and patched work.
A final sequence of silk tulle evening dresses crafted in four different embroideries includes a bullion lattice pattern with satin-stitched medieval flora and fauna motifs within and a dove lace encrusted with scattered tiny beads and sequins. This is followed by an embroidery inspired by old alchemy illustrations, druid symbols and Cornish wildlife rendered in black and silver beads and glass stones, and finally, a ‘Tree-of-Life’ embellished with glass beads, micro bugle beads and stones. They are all finished with fringes and loose threads with feathers or a metal charm at the end, evoking the magic and mysticism of the treasures of a pagan Wishing Tree.
Music:
Transformation
Written and Performed by Max Richter
Published by Mute Song Limited
Courtesy of Deutsche Grammophon 
Хобби
Ms Burton is Ms Burton ....love the dresses and the design of the platted pony hair . The way the strands fall ...very classy dresses ...love the music ...but * miss Lee xx xx xx he's the best ever ....she has been inspired by him ..x
I'm getting a Macbeth vibe from this collection. There's something very Elizabethan and regal about Burton's work, which I LOVE. Alexander McQueen remains the only real consistent excitement left in fashion these days.
Too much, too amazing...best collection I've seen in a long time! Such a clear point of view; so cohesive, and unique. Incredible artistry combined with functionality. A bit GOT at times, but don't get me wrong - I'm a fan!
Alexander mc queen, the shows always fantastic
Fantastic beautiful it's just lovely wearable pieces loves it
It's a great collection x
The obsession with forcing Ms. Burton to try and reincarnate Alexander McQueen's vision is cruel, demeaning, and unprofessional. Let her take the brand in the direction she feels is best for its survival and adaptation to a changing market.
She isn't a pony, she doesn't do tricks.
Besides, each collection is an ideological extension of the originating designers' intentions. These dissections/explorations of British/UK/Anglo-Saxon histories through clothing is exactly what Alexander McQueen did and what the brand was defined by. His silhouettes and crafts were his, these are Ms. Burton's. But, take notice -- his craft still lives on in the McQueen label. It's just not an exact replication.
Oh, and this collection is marvelous. I love seeing Cornish histories dissected, pulled apart, and re-crafted into exciting new ideas.
you said it best. i definitely feel the alexander mcqueen codes. creating something unusual out of the usual is just alexander mcqueen. Sarah does that. only it is fresh and fit for today. people do not seem to get that.
THE BEST!
I miss him .. a lot :'(
btw, thanks sarah
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But it doesn't feel like mcqueen's anymore, the label should be named as Sarah Burton not AlexanderMcQueen
Magestic!
ohh mcqueen !
Since he past away the collection is not the same tried and TACKY
meravigliosa!
7:46, 🔥🔥🔥🔥
Even though I have enjoyed Ms. Burton's shows in the past...this season feels the furthest removed from any Alexander McQueen universe. Even though Alexander is no longer with us...the shows she took over after his death still did feel very reminiscent of him in some way or another. I definitely didn't feel any McQueen components in this show in my personal opinion. The clothes are beautiful but I think we have walked into Sarah's territory now.
She has done very beautiful collections. As you said, the one she made just after he died was iconic, and also the f/w collection following that, prior to making Kate Middleton's wedding dress. I guess that sometimes she goes flat on ideas? These last collections she actually introduced new stuff that felt very McQueen, but now she seems to be very "comfortable", she needs to get back to the McQueen core again
I definitely agree with you on the aspect of her ability to not only be able to create iconic and stunning collections in his name...for which she has done. As well as her ability to channel the man she had spent fifteen years plus working with even after his tragic death. I do think however in any case of a certain designer taking the reigns at a certain fashion house...not only can their time be marked through the clothing obviously. But there is a sense of time as far as how the designer transitioned from the previous one into the current state. I feel like there is a period of time where the bridge between a pervious designer for the house and the current designer for the house is built to carry the continuing legacy smoothly. But after a certain amount of time...that does become less so when the designer has done enough shows for enough years to have formed their own identity with the house. That is just the nature of the beast...In my personal opinion however because anyone who is familiar with Alexander McQueen and what his legacy means...it is hard to imagine anyone else to be able to do what he did like he did. She definitely got us close. But after this amount of time I just feel like we have wandered into Sarah's land and more away from Alexander's. Not to say anything is wrong that...perhaps it's just with the last season...having it feel so different. It made me realize just how missed he and his work is and how missed it will continue to be.
You make a good point, there was a transition as you said, and as a designer explores and wanders and finds new ways to make fashion, she has also changed her ways to make collections running the house. She has the McQueen DNA, she has shown us that she can gives us iconic/dramatic collections, but she also has a Burton DNA, she has her own sensibility, which yes, was very close to Lee's, but its hers, at the end. Even though Lee is missed, we shouldn't complain that much about her, because trying to imitate McQueen would clearly be a disaster. I think that in these last collections Sarah has been moving from the McQueen heritage and a sensibility that is starting to feel as hers, which is a good thing for a designer in a way, but also sad, because it reminds us that Sarah is not Lee
So, then it sounds like we are saying the same thing perhaps. Also, I appreciate that you want to make room for her and there is nothing wrong with that. But I have literally never said a thing about her collections until this current season when I wrote one comment about her most recent collection. I hardly think that is grounds for stating that I or anyone "complains that much about her", as you stated. I observed and assessed and formed an opinion. Observations and complaints are not the same thing.
Vicenteii I wasnt talking about you at all. I thinl you misunderstood. I was talking in general: there are a lot of people that literally complain every single collection she makes...All I wanted to say is that we are very used to compare now in fashion. For example in Dior, now that Maria Grazia Chiuri is the creative director, everyone wants Raf Simons back, but when he did Dior everyone just kept comparing him to Galliano...every designer has an identity I guess, or at least should
This was not McQueen. The purpose of carrying on a design house is to elude a continuity and vision of its namesake designer while lending new perspective. This collection has only minimally done that.
@Stevan Hall............ You're talking out of your ass..... And by the way, you might want to look up the definition of "elude"........The "this is not McQueen" bullshit is becoming tiresome.........It says McQueen on the label.
7:59
it's pretty - yes
it's McQween - no(((( :*(((
But i like this video. because it's fashion
Nicely presented in every season and maintain the consistency of the uniqueness of her style. Enjoy watching every single piece of her works that executed in the show. :)
Same collection again and again... please leave the brand Sarah
This doesn't look like McQueen's work. Lot of his ideas but not that wow disturbing factor that says this is Alexander McQueen
McQueen is gone. Let it be and enjoy what we have left.