Update: I think that the old green filter are the brightest, ( and maybe the best) then the blue green filters and the new full blue filters are the dimmest of these three.. I also prefer my blue green filter. The new full blue filter are OK but less Vivid. Some people's said that they have better contrast and darker background Nevertheless I find the blue green filter a bit better- at least for me.😉 I donT know why Lunt has change these filters? ( to last longer??)Now every scope has full blue filters, but hopefully the new telescopes ( Lunt 60 MT) can compensate that in a good way. ( also, every scope in size or whatever can work differently then another solar telescope in every way)
Noting how you need the 1 1/4” extensions so you can use the eyepieces normally, fully seated in their slip fit. Baader do a nice t-thread (48mm at 0.75 pitch thread) to 1 1/4” slip fit adapter. It’s their clicklock design. It has a depth of 32-38mm. I wonder if that was threaded on the back of the focus barrel, would that give a clean extention for the diagonal. They grip very well so should hold the diagonal with a heavy eyepiece without a likelyhood of the whole lot slipping out and falling. I should add, I used to work at a scope manufacturer/dealership in the 80’s. We used Kleenex then as we could rely on no residues left over, even if a fluid was used. Nor would they leave a snowstorm of lint and dust. Sounds like they are still up to standard. Trying other brands would often given you as much additional work in cleaning up what the tissue would deposit as it cleaned off.
1---What scope manufacturer / dealership did you work at if I may ask in the 80's? 2---Actual regular Kleenex tissues? 3---They are safe on glass coatings, won't scratch or do damage? 4---I assume the non-lotion type? That's what I buy. thanks
@@starastronomer 1) Astro Systems, Luton UK. We were the UK dealers for Celestron. Delt with Vixen, using some vixen components on the Newts we built. Later Meade as well, and a very tiny amount of Goto (as in the manufacturer). 2) the regular Kleenex, 3) yes, no additives. In fact I don’t remember Kleenex having lotion added option at that time. 4) they are safe to use for typical optics and coatings. Obviously removing any obvious dust that could be abrasive. I wouldn’t use them on something like a diffraction grating. Aluminised or silvered coatings normally have a silicone oxide coating for mirrors which is moderately hard so ok with gentle cleaning. Non coated mirrors the metal is coat is relatively soft and thin, of course that would also mean they would tarnish very quickly. I’ve messed with cleaning dielectric surfaces which seemed quite tough. However those were not for optical, bit for directing inks. On the subject of the Lunt 40mm. I’ve looked at the info given by Bresser who sell the same instrument under their name. They suggest pulling the diagonal in and out for corse focusing before using the focus knobs. I’m guessing most would end up having the diagonal at a similar position for their eyepieces each time. I wonder if using a collar around the 1 1/4” barrel would help. Even cutting a spare, snug fitting 1 1/4” female eyepiece cap
I have had a Lunt 60 since the 2nd Venus transit. I ordered it with the B1200 blocking filter and it's plenty bright. Aperture difference may account for that. Lunt recently came out with a double stack in 60 mm. They have had the 50 mm double stack for a few years but losing Aperture will definitely mean loss of brightness. Will chat with them at NEAF this year.
Hi, instead of using the 0.6 neutral density filter, if u can find another filter , i mean the filter in the b1200 at the end where you put the eyepiece and double stack it with yr b1200, you will find yr view enhanced contrast, trust me. Ive tried it.
Interesting, and we’ll done. I may have to try this on my Lunt 80 double stack. Images are plenty bright (B1800 w/ BG38) when viewing in single stack mode, definitely much dimmer in DS mode. Thanks for posting your results!
Thank you for this great review. Really appreciate the effort. I am saving to buy the 40mm in the next few months. However, I have a stupid question; in your video, I saw that you completely removed the Lunt blocking filter and replaced it with the ND and UV/IR filters. My question is: will you STILL get h alpha prominence viewing with this filters combination on any other telescope or you have to have the Lunt scope still? Many thanks again.
Apologies I forgot to mention that of course I have the ISO certified Celestron dedicated solar filter installed at the very front of the Tube's 8" mirror.
Hello @mohammadal-debsi9976 This MUST only be done with a dedicated Hydrogen-Alpha solar scope. Also, always double check with the scopes manufacturer on any modifications as I have done. Clear Skies!
I think that a plastic lens cap is best as say that you have a lapse of concentration whilst you are putting the cap on you could scratch the lense with the circular edge if it was metal.
$320 for a feather Touch is a bit steep, but I bet it won't take an aftermarket Crayford, not Crawford btw, that costs $180. I have the 50mm f/7, believe it or not, but 50mm is 50% more light gathering power than 40mm, just means I can use a little more magnification, little. Regular rules don't apply to H-Alpha viewing because of the nature of the target, you cannot use too much magnification. I'm not really interested in photography, but got the B600 anyway as it was less than $100 more. Spending near a thousand bucks the sales tax was more than the 400/600 difference.
Interesting results I have the Lunt 35 & I've always found the image to be bright so you can see the proms clearly on the edge, compared with the two Coronado PST's in Ha I have the views are a lot dimmer but still both give good detail. I also have a PST double stack but in all fairness the slightest bit of haze in the sky & you can forget using it, plus I found the image to be unevenly illuminated when using it so not completely sold. I'm really not a fan of the helical focuser used on the 35 either your upgraded focuser on the 40mm is pricey but definitely worth it. Very good review clear skies!!
@miertjestoer9525 I personally like the brighter image than provided by the original BG 38 filter. Surface detail was fine with the original filter but again I much prefer it brighter. Some may not find it better.
@RK-ed7cc I don't do imaging at this time. But, I can't imagine it would be any different than the stock setup. If someone has done so please let us know how it worked out.
Hi, one more question: are the views with the 1.25" UV/IR cosmos L cut and baader 1.25" 0.9 ND filter about 25 percent brighter in comparison with the BG 38 filter alone? Thanks.
I believe with those filters + Lunt 60 + binoviewer I will get the best of both worlds : brighter, more exiting proms - better surface detail - (and a little ) more magnification to see the details better. At least, I hope so. of course at my own risk. Tanks- take your time intil you can answer -there is no hurry.
When comparing the view in my Lunt 40 with the spectacular view in my Lunt 35 I feel the Lunt 40 is a lemon. I don't feel that performance wise the Lunt 40 is worth adding more expensive bling options like like larger blocking filter or fancy feather touch focusers. Its like half the prominence's that can be seen in the Lunt 35 disappear in the Lunt 40 view.
@chuckhunt809 I totally disagree Chuck. The 40mm is a well made and designed scope. If you didn't have the older 35 you wouldn't know the difference. As shown you can easily modify the filters at a small cost to brighten the view. I certainly wouldn't say you lose half the prominence's either. The Lunt 40mm gets you into the H-Alpha system at a very reasonable cost. I've seen the "competitors" 40 model years ago and the Lunt design is better in my opinion. Also, Lunt allows for a focuser upgrade that the "competitor" doesn't.
Update: I think that the old green filter are the brightest, ( and maybe the best) then the blue green filters and the new full blue filters are the dimmest of these three.. I also prefer my blue green filter. The new full blue filter are OK but less Vivid. Some people's said that they have better contrast and darker background Nevertheless
I find the blue green filter a bit better- at least for me.😉 I donT know why Lunt has change these filters? ( to last longer??)Now every scope has full blue filters, but hopefully the new telescopes ( Lunt 60 MT) can compensate that in a good way. ( also, every scope in size or whatever can work differently then another solar telescope in every way)
I agree.
Noting how you need the 1 1/4” extensions so you can use the eyepieces normally, fully seated in their slip fit. Baader do a nice t-thread (48mm at 0.75 pitch thread) to 1 1/4” slip fit adapter. It’s their clicklock design. It has a depth of 32-38mm. I wonder if that was threaded on the back of the focus barrel, would that give a clean extention for the diagonal. They grip very well so should hold the diagonal with a heavy eyepiece without a likelyhood of the whole lot slipping out and falling.
I should add, I used to work at a scope manufacturer/dealership in the 80’s. We used Kleenex then as we could rely on no residues left over, even if a fluid was used. Nor would they leave a snowstorm of lint and dust. Sounds like they are still up to standard. Trying other brands would often given you as much additional work in cleaning up what the tissue would deposit as it cleaned off.
1---What scope manufacturer / dealership did you work at if I may ask in the 80's?
2---Actual regular Kleenex tissues?
3---They are safe on glass coatings, won't scratch or do damage?
4---I assume the non-lotion type? That's what I buy.
thanks
@@starastronomer 1) Astro Systems, Luton UK. We were the UK dealers for Celestron. Delt with Vixen, using some vixen components on the Newts we built. Later Meade as well, and a very tiny amount of Goto (as in the manufacturer).
2) the regular Kleenex,
3) yes, no additives. In fact I don’t remember Kleenex having lotion added option at that time.
4) they are safe to use for typical optics and coatings. Obviously removing any obvious dust that could be abrasive. I wouldn’t use them on something like a diffraction grating. Aluminised or silvered coatings normally have a silicone oxide coating for mirrors which is moderately hard so ok with gentle cleaning. Non coated mirrors the metal is coat is relatively soft and thin, of course that would also mean they would tarnish very quickly. I’ve messed with cleaning dielectric surfaces which seemed quite tough. However those were not for optical, bit for directing inks.
On the subject of the Lunt 40mm. I’ve looked at the info given by Bresser who sell the same instrument under their name. They suggest pulling the diagonal in and out for corse focusing before using the focus knobs. I’m guessing most would end up having the diagonal at a similar position for their eyepieces each time. I wonder if using a collar around the 1 1/4” barrel would help. Even cutting a spare, snug fitting 1 1/4” female eyepiece cap
Thank you for the reply! I would think a collar of some type would do the trick.
I have had a Lunt 60 since the 2nd Venus transit. I ordered it with the B1200 blocking filter and it's plenty bright. Aperture difference may account for that. Lunt recently came out with a double stack in 60 mm. They have had the 50 mm double stack for a few years but losing Aperture will definitely mean loss of brightness. Will chat with them at NEAF this year.
Hello @guzzialfa Yes, that extra aperture will help with brightness.
Hi, instead of using the 0.6 neutral density filter, if u can find another filter , i mean the filter in the b1200 at the end where you put the eyepiece and double stack it with yr b1200, you will find yr view enhanced contrast, trust me. Ive tried it.
I'm very happy with my view. Don't want to spend the extra money to double stack.
Interesting, and we’ll done. I may have to try this on my Lunt 80 double stack. Images are plenty bright (B1800 w/ BG38) when viewing in single stack mode, definitely much dimmer in DS mode.
Thanks for posting your results!
Your welcome!!!
Thank you for this great review. Really appreciate the effort. I am saving to buy the 40mm in the next few months. However, I have a stupid question; in your video, I saw that you completely removed the Lunt blocking filter and replaced it with the ND and UV/IR filters. My question is: will you STILL get h alpha prominence viewing with this filters combination on any other telescope or you have to have the Lunt scope still? Many thanks again.
Apologies I forgot to mention that of course I have the ISO certified Celestron dedicated solar filter installed at the very front of the Tube's 8" mirror.
Hello @mohammadal-debsi9976 This MUST only be done with a dedicated Hydrogen-Alpha solar scope. Also, always double check with the scopes manufacturer on any modifications as I have done. Clear Skies!
Great help as I'm considering buying a solar scope, thanks!!!
Glad to be of help @kenproctor3824, you're welcome!
I think that a plastic lens cap is best as say that you have a lapse of concentration whilst you are putting the cap on you could scratch the lense with the circular edge if it was metal.
$320 for a feather Touch is a bit steep, but I bet it won't take an aftermarket Crayford, not Crawford btw, that costs $180. I have the 50mm f/7, believe it or not, but 50mm is 50% more light gathering power than 40mm, just means I can use a little more magnification, little. Regular rules don't apply to H-Alpha viewing because of the nature of the target, you cannot use too much magnification. I'm not really interested in photography, but got the B600 anyway as it was less than $100 more. Spending near a thousand bucks the sales tax was more than the 400/600 difference.
"I didn't want to spend a lot of money." So he got the upgrade focuser and BF1200 filter!
😳😉💸💰💳
Great video! Can you tell me the number stamped on the inside of your new, plastic lens cover that you replaced the original with? Thank you!
Interesting results I have the Lunt 35 & I've always found the image to be bright so you can see the proms clearly on the edge, compared with the two Coronado PST's in Ha I have the views are a lot dimmer but still both give good detail. I also have a PST double stack but in all fairness the slightest bit of haze in the sky & you can forget using it, plus I found the image to be unevenly illuminated when using it so not completely sold. I'm really not a fan of the helical focuser used on the 35 either your upgraded focuser on the 40mm is pricey but definitely worth it. Very good review clear skies!!
THANK YOU❗️ I always wondered about double stacking. Glad you mentioned that. I will keep the 40 the way it is.
Hi, I am still not sure about the surface detail and contrast. Was that better with the original BG 38 filter? Thanks for the tip.
@miertjestoer9525 I personally like the brighter image than provided by the original BG 38 filter. Surface detail was fine with the original filter but again I much prefer it brighter. Some may not find it better.
Can the adapter fit on Arca Swiss at 5:30? If not is there one? I’d like to put the Lunt on a benro Polaris to counter field rotation. Thanks
No, the one at 5:30 is for the Vixen style dovetail which is wider than the Arca Swiss. Just buy the Arca type and attach to the the bottom as I did.
@@starastronomer I just noticed that a couple of days ago that I can just screw one in. Thanks 🤙🏽
Hello, did you get around to testing the ND filters while imaging?
@RK-ed7cc I don't do imaging at this time. But, I can't imagine it would be any different than the stock setup. If someone has done so please let us know how it worked out.
supar scope! Cheers from Siberiya!
Thank you @ignatprokhoropchyuck4652 and hello to Siberiya.
Hi, one more question: are the views with the 1.25" UV/IR cosmos L cut and baader 1.25" 0.9 ND filter about 25 percent brighter in comparison with the BG 38 filter alone? Thanks.
Hard to give an actual percentage. But it is better with either the 0.6 or 0.9 in my opinion. The only way I want to use the scope.
I believe with those filters + Lunt 60 + binoviewer I will get the best of both worlds : brighter, more exiting proms - better surface detail - (and a little ) more magnification to see the details better. At least, I hope so. of course at my own risk. Tanks- take your time intil you can answer -there is no hurry.
@miertjestoer9525 I would think it would work the same for the Lunt 60 also and give brighter views.
@@starastronomer okey thanks.
When comparing the view in my Lunt 40 with the spectacular view in my Lunt 35 I feel the Lunt 40 is a lemon.
I don't feel that performance wise the Lunt 40 is worth adding more expensive bling options like like larger blocking filter or fancy feather touch focusers. Its like half the prominence's that can be seen in the Lunt 35 disappear in the Lunt 40 view.
@chuckhunt809 I totally disagree Chuck. The 40mm is a well made and designed scope. If you didn't have the older 35 you wouldn't know the difference. As shown you can easily modify the filters at a small cost to brighten the view. I certainly wouldn't say you lose half the prominence's either. The Lunt 40mm gets you into the H-Alpha system at a very reasonable cost. I've seen the "competitors" 40 model years ago and the Lunt design is better in my opinion. Also, Lunt allows for a focuser upgrade that the "competitor" doesn't.
Lemon is it mwan worst?
Hello ,
very beautiful dog and solar télescope 😎👍
from France....
Pascal.
Hello Pascal. Thank you so much!
My Cheers from Siberiya, has the Lunt 80 and used o-rings, no good
What type of money are these units state-side.
It all depends on how you buy it in the configuration you choose. Best to check their website for details and cost