You should probably start using a triangle when marking scale length and pick up placement brother. That flexible ruler will come up a few mm short when flexing downwards. Shouldn't be an issue with the amount of travel on saddles but something to keep in mind when measuring stuffs.
A couple of things that might help with cutting the fret slots back out after sanding the radius. In stead of using the guide attached to the saw. You might just put a piece of tape along the blade to show the depth of cut. The second is to use a short radius block section with a 90 degree face to fret board cut and place the saw blade in the slot to be deepened then move the block parallel to the slot to help keep blade at a 90 degrees to the fret board. I have also seen people inset a couple of magnets in to the radius block to help insure the blade stays tight to the block.I know you used the slot cutting jig when you cut the slots but after sanding off so much of the fret board that some of the slot is gone it would help insure the slots where re-cut to the depth needed and stayed true.
Not bad ideas. I have tried the tape thing before. I may go back to it. I was actually contemplating replacing the black plastic guide with 1/4" clear perspex.
I personally like the depth stop but I will say that I agree with Robert on the radius block to set 90°. Also, I you tape your fret slots before you cut them to depth, it'll help with the maple wanting to blow out on the edge! Ive had the same issue and that helped a bunch. All in all, it's great brother. Don't you love the feeling that your getting now when you build? I can feel that your gaining confidence and your obviously more comfortable with all the processes! Your doing great brother. ✌️&💙
Hey mate that is starting to come together, you should be able to blend that nech with the overhang, are you going to use a shim for neck angle or leave it flat? 🤘
Awesome build brother and i actually dig your idea for dying the fretboard! That will look awesome. Great build man!✌️&💙
Thanks a ton brother!
that neck joint will look fine good solution, i was wondering how that was going to play out
Thanks!
You should probably start using a triangle when marking scale length and pick up placement brother. That flexible ruler will come up a few mm short when flexing downwards. Shouldn't be an issue with the amount of travel on saddles but something to keep in mind when measuring stuffs.
Yeah, that's why I always check it about 4 times first lol
A couple of things that might help with cutting the fret slots back out after sanding the radius. In stead of using the guide attached to the saw. You might just put a piece of tape along the blade to show the depth of cut. The second is to use a short radius block section with a 90 degree face to fret board cut and place the saw blade in the slot to be deepened then move the block parallel to the slot to help keep blade at a 90 degrees to the fret board. I have also seen people inset a couple of magnets in to the radius block to help insure the blade stays tight to the block.I know you used the slot cutting jig when you cut the slots but after sanding off so much of the fret board that some of the slot is gone it would help insure the slots where re-cut to the depth needed and stayed true.
Not bad ideas. I have tried the tape thing before. I may go back to it. I was actually contemplating replacing the black plastic guide with 1/4" clear perspex.
I personally like the depth stop but I will say that I agree with Robert on the radius block to set 90°. Also, I you tape your fret slots before you cut them to depth, it'll help with the maple wanting to blow out on the edge! Ive had the same issue and that helped a bunch. All in all, it's great brother. Don't you love the feeling that your getting now when you build? I can feel that your gaining confidence and your obviously more comfortable with all the processes! Your doing great brother. ✌️&💙
That's a great idea. Also tape might help with the depth stop smudging the board.
Hey mate that is starting to come together, you should be able to blend that nech with the overhang, are you going to use a shim for neck angle or leave it flat? 🤘
Leave it flat. Since it's a Floyd Rose, it doesn't need a neck angle