My mini surface plate was a piece of hard bronze with a steel plate bolted on. Used my surface gage and indicator for the sane thing. Also had a T6061 aluminium plate that was 1.5" thick for use on the big electro magnetic chucks on surface grinders and Blanchard. Keep up the good work, I wish that I had a way to pass on my knowledge and experiences of 40+ years of bookmarking and job shops
A lot of memories in this video for me. As a young pup in the McDonnell Douglas tool shop, I used pretty much everything you had in the video from the tool chits to the surface grinder. We even had a much larger optical rotary table. We never used it on a machine and in fact it sat on a dedicated surface plate. From memory the plate was about 6 foot square and a good 2 plus feet thick. It sat on a low stand and the table surface was about 3 feet from the floor. We used it for calibration of an internal navigation optical tool, similar to a transit but much more accurate, sensitive and fragile. There were monuments anchored out in the shop, very well anchored and the rotary table was calibrated with them. We would place the nav tool on the rotary table then aim at the monuments with the nav tool to check that it still gave accurate reading to it's own scale. Again from memory the monuments were out about 50 feet in each direction. At that distance you can see how far off the tool was while watching the arc second scales. Sadly as a young pup and apprentice I never operated the table to calibrate the tool but it was a rather involved process if I remember correctly. This was back in the 70s . The shop was a wonderful place to do G jobs, we had many skilled trades in one building and for the most part we knew most of each other. I was in the Jig and fixture shop but we also had machine shop, grind shop, tool and die shop with supporting welding shop and wood shop all in one building. I have been retired for more than 2 years now since they shut the Long Beach plant down. From 1984 to retirement I worked on the C 17 cargo aircraft. I was tooling inspection since '87 and source tooling inspection for the last 7 years. Good times! I sure miss blue line drawings. I have a few stashed away just because you never see them anymore! On my channel I have made random attempts to pass on a little of my shop time to benefit those who will never get the chance to work in a shop like that.
red wrinkle finish paint, that brown and sharpe grinder is F-ing awesome. and I got a lot out of that angular indexing section the dual optical path thing pretty simple really thanks tom I always look forward to your videos
Nice calendar. I have some old tool tags from Lockheed that I discovered at my father's home after he passed. They date from the early '50's, and I remember playing with them when I was young. One now hangs on my keychain. It's made of a fiberboard material.
Hello there Tom Good to have U out of hibernation. But then Your winter' only starting out now, if that was any reason !!! And U have indeed been busy with some precision like exotic tools. Boggles the mind what was even available decades ago. I like Blue which hides the welds best on that square and as an alternate will pick Satin Red to liven up the shop. Beautiful colours with a great mock up done by Sharklops. Looking forward to seeing more interesting things U up to. ATB for now aRM
Hey a new comment on an old video. Live your videos, you give me ideas. But I noticed the chips. Still have a set from my next to last job, plant shut down, spent next 14 years playing mechanic. Now I am back in the tool and die shop. Love the sound of punch presses, even the cnc punches. Made in America baby, yah. Then you got out a set of magnetic parallels, I have a pair with the cylinders in brass or bronze I know are from the 1940s, have another newer set that are laminated strips of brass and steel. Since I am more active in the trade now, always have had a shop at home I am digging through my boxes of tricks, finding special stuff. Sifting through your videos, you mentioned and showed a magnetic cylinder square. I need one. More than one way I could whip one up. Hard base or soft, how to orient magnets. Should I use Thompsons or a long dowel pin. Hey I love your windyhill indicating square btw. Currently my squareness standards are a set of 246 blocks. Seem to be within less than a tenth. As one old guy I used to work with would say, good enough for the girls I go with. Ha. He was a crusty old rascal.
Does the 1127 Orange look to anyone else like it is Red? The work that Tom placed into the planning is so well impressive. Whether done for himself to take the time to consider which is very orderly or if the diffent colors are for us to feel a part of I like it. Good.
I almost forgot what meatloaf tasted like.......Its great for breakfast on a monday morning, sliced, fried with an egg on top. Pleasant surprise, Thanks Tom.
That's a top of the line Newbould indexer you found. Thanks for sharing those web sites. Looking forward to receiving my new Standridge-oxtoolco mini surface plate for Christmas!
I was one of the last classes that they taught manual drafting to back in 2009. We had a hybrid course that focused on CAD and architecture but I enjoyed the manual machining drawings so much more. There's a real art to doing a good drawing which I found to be very satisfying once complete.
That Newbold indexer is incredible, and the Gurley Unisec even more so- I need one of those (toolmaker horologist). So many really rare exotic tools in one video, this is basically tool porn for me. So glad guys like you are out there revealing the mere existence of some of this stuff
Sounds like you understand perfectly clear to me.... it's been a while but, from what i can recall u usually have something that holds the part or test samples etc. Usually likr a small clamp and u can check angles and all. Now what we used them for normally we were using overlays which were just a revision based clear scale marker/map for checking tolerance or whatever but many times we used them to point features on machining components or products....inserts, thread/seal molds.... parts whatever... dispositioning questionable features like lips on counter bores or more commonly threads...especially smaller designed threads for certain premium connections with critical areas....radiused corners on multiple features would very often show a undesirable chamfered looking corner as if i remember right it was worn inserts usually... nkw we didn't use comparotors or molds for 80 years them we started so, i mean haha yeah... but we scrapped a whole lot of expensive fkn shit with it i can tell u that much... one of urs has a turntable for different things, yeah they come with a lot of shit... if i would've known then what i know about how things work now i really would have a few stashed with plenty other stuff....hahaha...😐
I picked up a Browne & Sharpe Micromaster yesterday. Free from my friend who also got it free and never used it. I didn't get my order in quick enough on the little surface plates to get one from the first batch. By the time the second batch arrives I should be just about finished going over my grinder.
I was an ammonia breather for many years in a diazo shop. Thank you for bringing those memories back. (There is no paper cut quite like the ones that waxed linen originals give you.)
Definitely let me know when the next order of mini surface plates come in I would love to get one awesome little idea there. Thanks again for another great video tom. Merry Christmas and happy holidays.
Drew, I started a toolmaking apprenticeship at Ford UK in 1969, and worked at Ford Research / Product Development until retiring early in 2004. I am now retired, but spend half my week doing the same thing at the local Menz Shed (I live in New Zealand now). There is something very addictive about making things, and doing so with reasonable accuracy. I spend a lot of time watching RUclips channels from people like Tom, Mr Pete, This Old Tony, Adam at Abom79 etc. and I think that someone like yourself, just getting into it, has such an incredible resource by way of the years of experience and knowledge these channels provide. There's barely a day goes by when I don't learn something new, that I wish I'd known when I was still working. Tom mentioned his scraping course with Keith Rucker in one of his Meatloaf videos, and said how sad it will be for the world to lose the amazing knowledge bank and experience on scraping and machine alignment when Keith has gone (He is not that old, so no panic). That's just a for instance, but we can follow Keith's channel and do our bit to perpetuate that knowledge base. I wish you luck in your new career.
Was wondering when or if there would be any more servings of the most tasty meatloaf It's been pleasure to partake of! It was well worth the wait.My best wishes and felicitations to your entire family during this holiday season
On the plastic gear bit, I used to work for an avionics company and had some involvement with an autopilot servo. The unit could supply around 90 ft-lbs of torque as it pulled directly on the control lines to rudder and elevator control surfaces. In the middle of the servo was a pair of gears very reminiscent to the ones you showed which was sandwiched together by an electromagnet solenoid mechanism, which was used to disconnect the output from the gear drive...in which that clutch stack took the entire 90 ft-lbs of torque directly. So yeah, those plastic gears do handle plenty of torque.
Those stops on the indexer work real good for making blood shoot out from under your fingernails. I always keep the o-ring belt or the stops in the box. I don’t use them both at the same time anymore.
@oxtoolco (With the Gurley instrument) I suspect one is supposed to use a autocollimator and a mirror mounted on the table. So I think the seconds adjustment moves one of the scales (maybe) but the rotation is set to null / close the angle using an autocollimator. What happens when you lightly apply the brake and use the arc second adjustment. Some older surveying instruments use a Vernier on the right hand scale (kind of thing). I might dig about in the patent literature... Looks like the instrument would mount a prism or mirror etc. ? / Or telescope etc. ?
Hey Tom, thanks for the video. Sadly, RJ passed on July 6th of this year. I always enjoyed reading his posts on Practical Machinist. Thanks again as always.
Hi Tom. The display on the turn table looks to work on a similar principal to one the Wild (now Leica) theodolites. I us one called a T2 which reads to 1" and has display broken up similar to your. the degrees and tens of minutes a read of 1 scale and a minutes units and seconds read off a second by adjusting the micrometer dial to align some marks on the scale. Maybe some one in the surveying meteorology area might be of some help.
I had a look at the patent. I believe the way it's read is by adjusting the fine (second) scale until the lines on the main scale line up. The patent states that "The reading is taken when the prisms have been set to cause register of the graduations in the two images." Also figures 8 and 9 of the patent seen here: patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/pages/US2363877-2.png show two example readings corresponding to 0' 55", and 1, 31' 12.8", both of which show the coarse scale graduations aligned. All the fine scale mechanism does is move a prism which shifts the two main scales in opposite directions (the same rotational direction). When they are aligned, the minutes and seconds are read off the fine scale. Moving the 'rotary table' exactly one arc second might be very difficult, because this measurement mechanism was designed for a theodolite which is first aligned to a target, and then the angle read off rather than moving to a specific angle like you'd want for a rotary table.
Hi Tom the Gurley Gage reminded of the circular geometry machines I sold when I worked in field sales for Federal Gage. Some advise if you put a cylindrical part on the chuck and want to align it with the Gage rotation. first center the part at a lower point. Then move the indicator to a upper surface point to adjust the chuck tilt. If you try to adjust both at the same time, it will drive you nuts. I would call this squeezing out setup error, and based on manually setting up thousands of parts. When I worked in the die shop we used the small granite plated to condition surfaces scratches. Really like the idea of using as a indicator base, " Nice Gaging Tip ". Love the gate your wife made for the shop. From my DoAll Field sales days, on setup of a new grinder we would first level the grinder. Then we would grind in the chuck pad surface till it sparked out. Then we would then set the chuck top face down and grind in the bottom mount surface, clean the pad & chuck spray the rust preservative and mount the mag chuck. At this point I would let the shop guys grind in the chuck top surface. This was a killer on a manual 6" X 18" but it made a huge accuracy difference. Thank You for all the great videos, Wishing you and your Family Merry Christmas & Happy New Year. Bill B Naperville IL
I'd go for the French Blue on the square. It has good visibilty, is not too flamboyant and most importantly: It's a nice, soothing colour for when you are about to lose your mind during metrology. Also I'd love to purchase a granite mini surface plate. Make More! i wasn't aware of those before watching this video.
Thanks for showing as usual. I´d second picking a color from the oxtoolco logo. Of course books are always better than searching for keywords to get an overview or insight into a topic. OTOH the point of your meatloaf section has quite a similar approach, thus i enjoy your presentations as well (and i happen to own one of your books).
I would use a light color just to have it easy to see when it is dirty. It is a precision instrument so it should stay spotless! Any of the White ones would be my pick.
For paint, I think a wrinkle black would look nice. . .like old Starrett mics and squares. VHT Wrinkle Plus would work well, and be fairly solvent resistant. Or, maybe a hammertone grey and black, like Mitutoyo.
I’m going to take a guess at how that rotter table works. The arc second adjuster offsets the marks relative to the duel angle reading. It probably does this by adjusting the optics. You would the use the worn to readjust the the table to line up the lines on the main readout. Curious to know if this is in fact how it works. Looking forward to being corrected.
Move to closest minute, add the seconds, then re align the minutes back to the arrows? Or move 1 minute past subtract seconds etc. Something about mis aligning the large scale then re aligning?
On that "Gurley" you would level first then center (which locks that top face down). After centering and locking, you would be unable to adjust the level.
The Newbould indexer has a motor, and the rubber belt is fairly loose, when using the indexer, is the motor run continuously and belt slips when it hits the divisions? Or is it turned on and off per division? Also, thank you for the awesome videos and your unending knowledge.
Hi Tom, I used to use brass tags for clocking in at the start of a shift and out at the end, hand the tag to time Clarke who noted you number and time in a ledger. Worked in a UK railway drawing office in the late 70's the printing was quite pungent
Brit Crim Still has my vote. Reminds me of an old safe or steam engine. September is always the best month of every calendar! Let me know when you decide to part with the Taft Peirce, I’d be interested if I can afford it.
I don´t know if I come late with this info. The dividing table with optical sights you have there we call it in Germany : "Rundtisch mit optischer Einstellung" Put this into "google" and you have more info ---- in german ! This device is used normally with a measurement microscope , or sight put on top. You measure the angle between two faces of a tool for example. Put the tool for examination , for example a shaper tool with its tip right in the middle and look from the top with yout microscope (with reticulation , of course). then align one of the faces of the tool with the microscope line. Take the first measurement or set to zero. Then rotate the table to put the other face of the tool in line with the microscope and you take the second measurement. That way for example you can measure the cutting angle of a tool with absolute precision. The main question is that you need a Microscope with crosshair looking from the top on the table to use this device.
Meatloaf is best served intermittently... you chose a good name for your segment. Adam's things are special, John's are nightcaps therefore you need at least 2, every sunday, to be able to face mondays.... and yours is something that needs to be looked forward to and really enjoyed when it happens! :D
As far as paint goes, if you want black (or silver), and want something other than gloss, hammer tone or wrinkle, you could use Harley-Davidson engine paint. It gives a texture about like a part cast in fine-grained sand, applies nicely and blends well. And being H-D, you may arguably find a better can of spray paint, but you'll be hard pressed to pay more for it! And regarding books, I make use of the searchability of the Internet all the time, but find much more enjoyment in perusing a book. Especially an antique auto or motorcycle manual where I can tell by the greasy thumbprints that somebody else had faced the same jobs as myself, and (hopefully) found the needed guidance there. Having started my work life at twelve years old in 1979, cutting electric motor commutators on an old manual lathe, I grew up with blue line prints, and vellum. Although I've studied CAD, and spent my last year as a draughtsman using CadKey v.6 (a while ago!), I guess I was introduced to them too late in life for solid models and computer fonts to stir my soul. Really enjoyed this particular serving of meatloaf; amazing how precise some of that old school equipment was!
Tom, great meatloaf episode; good stuff all around. First, yeah I’d be interested in a mini surface plate. How do I go about signing up for it? Second: books are the way to go if you are serious. Internet is great but books make the information your own. Third, as a diemaker, two particular surface grinders have been my favorites: the Taft Pierce you happen to have in your shop right now, and that particular B&S hydraulic 6x18 you show in this video. I do a lot of finished die work on both. Many memories. Keep it up!
I believe you set your degree then adjust minutes and seconds then reset the degree scale to your original degree alignment. Kind of the reverse of reading a vernier scale.
I think I have a copy of the Fundamentals of Engineering Drawing somewhere in my house, from my days as a Mechanical Engineering student in the late '60s and early '70s. Probably in a box that hasn't been opened in 25 years since my last move.
What ho young Tom, Thinking of surface grinders, that thread grinding jig I showed you won an award at SMEE over the weekend. Shows how easily impressed some folks can be.:>) As for colour, if it was in my engineerium it would have to be brown, so the rust didn't show. BOGC and merry christmas c
Put a laser pointer on the top of that second arc seconds dealie and have the wall as many feet away as possible... then turn that small dial and see if the laser dot moves on the wall.
My mini surface plate was a piece of hard bronze with a steel plate bolted on. Used my surface gage and indicator for the sane thing. Also had a T6061 aluminium plate that was 1.5" thick for use on the big electro magnetic chucks on surface grinders and Blanchard. Keep up the good work, I wish that I had a way to pass on my knowledge and experiences of 40+ years of bookmarking and job shops
I enjoyed catching up with you Tom. Thanks for continuing to share your knowledge.
A lot of memories in this video for me. As a young pup in the McDonnell Douglas tool shop, I used pretty much everything you had in the video from the tool chits to the surface grinder.
We even had a much larger optical rotary table. We never used it on a machine and in fact it sat on a dedicated surface plate. From memory the plate was about 6 foot square and a good 2 plus feet thick. It sat on a low stand and the table surface was about 3 feet from the floor. We used it for calibration of an internal navigation optical tool, similar to a transit but much more accurate, sensitive and fragile. There were monuments anchored out in the shop, very well anchored and the rotary table was calibrated with them. We would place the nav tool on the rotary table then aim at the monuments with the nav tool to check that it still gave accurate reading to it's own scale. Again from memory the monuments were out about 50 feet in each direction. At that distance you can see how far off the tool was while watching the arc second scales. Sadly as a young pup and apprentice I never operated the table to calibrate the tool but it was a rather involved process if I remember correctly.
This was back in the 70s . The shop was a wonderful place to do G jobs, we had many skilled trades in one building and for the most part we knew most of each other. I was in the Jig and fixture shop but we also had machine shop, grind shop, tool and die shop with supporting welding shop and wood shop all in one building. I have been retired for more than 2 years now since they shut the Long Beach plant down.
From 1984 to retirement I worked on the C 17 cargo aircraft. I was tooling inspection since '87 and source tooling inspection for the last 7 years. Good times! I sure miss blue line drawings. I have a few stashed away just because you never see them anymore! On my channel I have made random attempts to pass on a little of my shop time to benefit those who will never get the chance to work in a shop like that.
Tom, Many thanks for this video. I will look up Newbould's Channel. All the best for the New Year. Kind regards and greetings from Africa.
I’m happy to see the square again, I made my own following your plans and it has been working great.
red wrinkle finish paint, that brown and sharpe grinder is F-ing awesome. and I got a lot out of that angular indexing section the dual optical path thing pretty simple really thanks tom I always look forward to your videos
Those are good grinders. The weak link is the o-rings they use as the spindle drive belts and the cross feed nut.
Nice calendar. I have some old tool tags from Lockheed that I discovered at my father's home after he passed. They date from the early '50's, and I remember playing with them when I was young. One now hangs on my keychain. It's made of a fiberboard material.
Got more books in the library now. Thanks for sharing and have a great holiday!
Nice, love the new grinder and the spindexer!
Hello there Tom
Good to have U out of hibernation. But then Your winter' only starting out now, if that was any reason !!! And U have indeed been busy with some precision like exotic tools. Boggles the mind what was even available decades ago.
I like Blue which hides the welds best on that square and as an alternate will pick Satin Red to liven up the shop. Beautiful colours with a great mock up done by Sharklops.
Looking forward to seeing more interesting things U up to.
ATB for now
aRM
Hey a new comment on an old video. Live your videos, you give me ideas. But I noticed the chips. Still have a set from my next to last job, plant shut down, spent next 14 years playing mechanic. Now I am back in the tool and die shop. Love the sound of punch presses, even the cnc punches. Made in America baby, yah. Then you got out a set of magnetic parallels, I have a pair with the cylinders in brass or bronze I know are from the 1940s, have another newer set that are laminated strips of brass and steel. Since I am more active in the trade now, always have had a shop at home I am digging through my boxes of tricks, finding special stuff. Sifting through your videos, you mentioned and showed a magnetic cylinder square. I need one. More than one way I could whip one up. Hard base or soft, how to orient magnets. Should I use Thompsons or a long dowel pin. Hey I love your windyhill indicating square btw. Currently my squareness standards are a set of 246 blocks. Seem to be within less than a tenth. As one old guy I used to work with would say, good enough for the girls I go with. Ha. He was a crusty old rascal.
Does the 1127 Orange look to anyone else like it is Red? The work that Tom placed into the planning is so well impressive. Whether done for himself to take the time to consider which is very orderly or if the diffent colors are for us to feel a part of I like it. Good.
I almost forgot what meatloaf tasted like.......Its great for breakfast on a monday morning, sliced, fried with an egg on top.
Pleasant surprise, Thanks Tom.
Wow, I never thought my Dad's tool room chits would be so cool now. Thanks Tom, always learn from your videos, thanks! Joe
Those mini surface plates are awesome! I'd definitely be interested in buying one!
That's a top of the line Newbould indexer you found. Thanks for sharing those web sites. Looking forward to receiving my new Standridge-oxtoolco mini surface plate for Christmas!
I was one of the last classes that they taught manual drafting to back in 2009. We had a hybrid course that focused on CAD and architecture but I enjoyed the manual machining drawings so much more. There's a real art to doing a good drawing which I found to be very satisfying once complete.
That Newbold indexer is incredible, and the Gurley Unisec even more so- I need one of those (toolmaker horologist). So many really rare exotic tools in one video, this is basically tool porn for me. So glad guys like you are out there revealing the mere existence of some of this stuff
Sounds like you understand perfectly clear to me.... it's been a while but, from what i can recall u usually have something that holds the part or test samples etc. Usually likr a small clamp and u can check angles and all. Now what we used them for normally we were using overlays which were just a revision based clear scale marker/map for checking tolerance or whatever but many times we used them to point features on machining components or products....inserts, thread/seal molds.... parts whatever... dispositioning questionable features like lips on counter bores or more commonly threads...especially smaller designed threads for certain premium connections with critical areas....radiused corners on multiple features would very often show a undesirable chamfered looking corner as if i remember right it was worn inserts usually... nkw we didn't use comparotors or molds for 80 years them we started so, i mean haha yeah... but we scrapped a whole lot of expensive fkn shit with it i can tell u that much... one of urs has a turntable for different things, yeah they come with a lot of shit... if i would've known then what i know about how things work now i really would have a few stashed with plenty other stuff....hahaha...😐
I picked up a Browne & Sharpe Micromaster yesterday. Free from my friend who also got it free and never used it. I didn't get my order in quick enough on the little surface plates to get one from the first batch. By the time the second batch arrives I should be just about finished going over my grinder.
I was an ammonia breather for many years in a diazo shop. Thank you for bringing those memories back.
(There is no paper cut quite like the ones that waxed linen originals give you.)
Blue lines. Still moist and aromatic from the printer and delivered to your workbench by the woman in the blue smock. There's a memory for me.
Definitely let me know when the next order of mini surface plates come in I would love to get one awesome little idea there. Thanks again for another great video tom. Merry Christmas and happy holidays.
GOOD TO SEE YOU AGAIN, we have been missing you .. MERRY CHRISTMAS . thanks for the video..
Tom, today was my first day as a professional machinist and I blame you.
Sorry about that. I can assure you that was all part of my evil plan.
All the best,
Tom
Drew, I started a toolmaking apprenticeship at Ford UK in 1969, and worked at Ford Research / Product Development until retiring early in 2004. I am now retired, but spend half my week doing the same thing at the local Menz Shed (I live in New Zealand now). There is something very addictive about making things, and doing so with reasonable accuracy. I spend a lot of time watching RUclips channels from people like Tom, Mr Pete, This Old Tony, Adam at Abom79 etc. and I think that someone like yourself, just getting into it, has such an incredible resource by way of the years of experience and knowledge these channels provide. There's barely a day goes by when I don't learn something new, that I wish I'd known when I was still working. Tom mentioned his scraping course with Keith Rucker in one of his Meatloaf videos, and said how sad it will be for the world to lose the amazing knowledge bank and experience on scraping and machine alignment when Keith has gone (He is not that old, so no panic). That's just a for instance, but we can follow Keith's channel and do our bit to perpetuate that knowledge base. I wish you luck in your new career.
Was wondering when or if there would be any more servings of the most tasty meatloaf It's been pleasure to partake of! It was well worth the wait.My best wishes and felicitations to your entire family during this holiday season
On the plastic gear bit, I used to work for an avionics company and had some involvement with an autopilot servo. The unit could supply around 90 ft-lbs of torque as it pulled directly on the control lines to rudder and elevator control surfaces. In the middle of the servo was a pair of gears very reminiscent to the ones you showed which was sandwiched together by an electromagnet solenoid mechanism, which was used to disconnect the output from the gear drive...in which that clutch stack took the entire 90 ft-lbs of torque directly. So yeah, those plastic gears do handle plenty of torque.
I like the 1103 red. Make it easier to find in the shop. You seem to have so many metrology tools, make it easy to find this one...
Those stops on the indexer work real good for making blood shoot out from under your fingernails. I always keep the o-ring belt or the stops in the box. I don’t use them both at the same time anymore.
Ahhhh the smell of the "blue" print room!!! Great memories and cool stuff. Thanks for the video.
Black wrinkle finish, nice indexer, I wish you and yours a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
Another great video- thanks Tom! I am also very interested in the mini surface plate!
@oxtoolco (With the Gurley instrument) I suspect one is supposed to use a autocollimator and a mirror mounted on the table. So I think the seconds adjustment moves one of the scales (maybe) but the rotation is set to null / close the angle using an autocollimator. What happens when you lightly apply the brake and use the arc second adjustment. Some older surveying instruments use a Vernier on the right hand scale (kind of thing). I might dig about in the patent literature... Looks like the instrument would mount a prism or mirror etc. ? / Or telescope etc. ?
Hello Tom
I would choose for the Composite square a black wrinkle paint
and a brass oxtool tag.
I wish you happy Holidays
with kind regards Peter
A bunch more thumbs up, glad to see you here.
Hey Tom, thanks for the video. Sadly, RJ passed on July 6th of this year. I always enjoyed reading his posts on Practical Machinist. Thanks again as always.
Hi Tom.
The display on the turn table looks to work on a similar principal to one the Wild (now Leica) theodolites. I us one called a T2 which reads to 1" and has display broken up similar to your. the degrees and tens of minutes a read of 1 scale and a minutes units and seconds read off a second by adjusting the micrometer dial to align some marks on the scale.
Maybe some one in the surveying meteorology area might be of some help.
I had a look at the patent. I believe the way it's read is by adjusting the fine (second) scale until the lines on the main scale line up. The patent states that "The reading is taken when the prisms have been set to cause register of the graduations in the two images." Also figures 8 and 9 of the patent seen here: patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/pages/US2363877-2.png show two example readings corresponding to 0' 55", and 1, 31' 12.8", both of which show the coarse scale graduations aligned. All the fine scale mechanism does is move a prism which shifts the two main scales in opposite directions (the same rotational direction). When they are aligned, the minutes and seconds are read off the fine scale. Moving the 'rotary table' exactly one arc second might be very difficult, because this measurement mechanism was designed for a theodolite which is first aligned to a target, and then the angle read off rather than moving to a specific angle like you'd want for a rotary table.
Robby Stokoe I was going along with the he same thought. Defiantly reminds me of a base for an old analog/mechanical theodolite.
Hands down the green on the far right side of the sample plate. It gives an old-age industrial look. Very cool.
1144 Gold is the color for the square. Swiss Gressel used to paint their machine vices in a gold color back when, and they look really cool
Got An Early Christmas Gift This Year , A Large Helping Of MEATLOAF ..Thank You Mr. Lipton !Green Would My First Choice...
Hi Tom the Gurley Gage reminded of the circular geometry machines I sold when I worked in field sales for Federal Gage. Some advise if you put a cylindrical part on the chuck and want to align it with the Gage rotation. first center the part at a lower point. Then move the indicator to a upper surface point to adjust the chuck tilt. If you try to adjust both at the same time, it will drive you nuts. I would call this squeezing out setup error, and based on manually setting up thousands of parts. When I worked in the die shop we used the small granite plated to condition surfaces scratches. Really like the idea of using as a indicator base, " Nice Gaging Tip ".
Love the gate your wife made for the shop. From my DoAll Field sales days, on setup of a new grinder we would first level the grinder. Then we would grind in the chuck pad surface till it sparked out. Then we would then set the chuck top face down and grind in the bottom mount surface, clean the pad & chuck spray the rust preservative and mount the mag chuck. At this point I would let the shop guys grind in the chuck top surface. This was a killer on a manual 6" X 18" but it made a huge accuracy difference. Thank You for all the great videos, Wishing you and your Family Merry Christmas & Happy New Year. Bill B Naperville IL
I'd go for the French Blue on the square. It has good visibilty, is not too flamboyant and most importantly: It's a nice, soothing colour for when you are about to lose your mind during metrology.
Also I'd love to purchase a granite mini surface plate. Make More! i wasn't aware of those before watching this video.
Gisatan Anything french is too flamboyant...
Thanks for showing as usual. I´d second picking a color from the oxtoolco logo. Of course books are always better than searching for keywords to get an overview or insight into a topic. OTOH the point of your meatloaf section has quite a similar approach, thus i enjoy your presentations as well (and i happen to own one of your books).
Good to see you and thanks for the video.
Tom, those Mini surface plates do sound good for an idea. No wonder they went fast. Please give me a sign for how much your letting them go.
Can't wait to get my surface plate! Thanks Tom!!
I would use a light color just to have it easy to see when it is dirty. It is a precision instrument so it should stay spotless! Any of the White ones would be my pick.
Good to see you back. interesting loaf. Leaning towards one of the darker greens for the paint..dunno why..just seems right. ;-)
Jappanning finish is my favorite. Either the Stanley black or the old Mitutoyo green.
Tom, Merry Christmas to you, the wife, and Mr. Bozo!
Hope to see more press videos in the new year.
For paint, I think a wrinkle black would look nice. . .like old Starrett mics and squares. VHT Wrinkle Plus would work well, and be fairly solvent resistant. Or, maybe a hammertone grey and black, like Mitutoyo.
I’m going to take a guess at how that rotter table works. The arc second adjuster offsets the marks relative to the duel angle reading. It probably does this by adjusting the optics. You would the use the worn to readjust the the table to line up the lines on the main readout. Curious to know if this is in fact how it works. Looking forward to being corrected.
HimTom! What about the Ezching Press videos? Project stopped? I miss them really...
Move to closest minute, add the seconds, then re align the minutes back to the arrows? Or move 1 minute past subtract seconds etc. Something about mis aligning the large scale then re aligning?
Hi tom, good to see a new meatloaf. Im interested in one of those micro surface plates
Hi Tom, I've been looking for some good meatloaf, thanks for cooking tonight. My color vote, 111 Blue. Have some Happy Holidays!!
1124 green, all equipment I rebuild for my shop is green, thanks for the vids.
French Blue for the classic look (-8 -- SUPER cool project!
The face of the indexer also has holes tapped to accept a 4" buck chuck., these indexers are handy .
On that "Gurley" you would level first then center (which locks that top face down). After centering and locking, you would be unable to adjust the level.
Re the Gurley, if you go over the patent there's a very good chance it explains the use of the device. Just a thought.
Hi! Tom, I am interested in your next batch of mini surface plates. Great vid!
Brit Crim I think for the color. Also Tom put me on the list to buy one of the little surface plates when you have Standridge make some more. Thanks
It looks like you set the arc secs to your desired destination and then move the table to bring the major marks back into alignment.
The Newbould indexer has a motor, and the rubber belt is fairly loose, when using the indexer, is the motor run continuously and belt slips when it hits the divisions? Or is it turned on and off per division? Also, thank you for the awesome videos and your unending knowledge.
Nevermind, I saw the Newbould's Perj using it on surface grinder and fully understand.
A mossy green. Very accurate machine-shop things should be a quiet, reserved colour.
Hi Tom, I used to use brass tags for clocking in at the start of a shift and out at the end, hand the tag to time Clarke who noted you number and time in a ledger.
Worked in a UK railway drawing office in the late 70's the printing was quite pungent
Plastic RFID at Alstom depot, prefer brass anytime!
beautiful blue
The dark green is nice. Has the "British Racing Green" feel to it.
RJ Newbould passed in July of this year. He was active on Practical Machinist 'til the end. Certainly a bright and clever toolmaker.
Brit Crim Still has my vote. Reminds me of an old safe or steam engine. September is always the best month of every calendar! Let me know when you decide to part with the Taft Peirce, I’d be interested if I can afford it.
I don´t know if I come late with this info.
The dividing table with optical sights you have there we call it in Germany :
"Rundtisch mit optischer Einstellung"
Put this into "google" and you have more info ---- in german !
This device is used normally with a measurement microscope , or sight put on top. You measure the angle between two faces of a tool for example.
Put the tool for examination , for example a shaper tool with its tip right in the middle and look from the top with yout microscope (with reticulation , of course). then align one of the faces of the tool with the microscope line. Take the first measurement or set to zero. Then rotate the table to put the other face of the tool in line with the microscope and you take the second measurement.
That way for example you can measure the cutting angle of a tool with absolute precision.
The main question is that you need a Microscope with crosshair looking from the top on the table to use this device.
I totally want one of the tiny surface plate
Enjoyed....happy holidays Tom
I'm interested in one of the small surface plates, Very Awesome!
Nice Meatloaf Tom! Have a Merry Christmas and A Happy New Year. Matt C
I agree with the Pearl White, as for use in a clean room
I'd love to have one of those mini surface plates!
Meatloaf is best served intermittently... you chose a good name for your segment. Adam's things are special, John's are nightcaps therefore you need at least 2, every sunday, to be able to face mondays.... and yours is something that needs to be looked forward to and really enjoyed when it happens! :D
If i'm missing any engineering segments from tues to fri inclusive, please tell me :D
Hi Tom, are you making more? Please would like to order 2.
As far as paint goes, if you want black (or silver), and want something other than gloss, hammer tone or wrinkle, you could use Harley-Davidson engine paint. It gives a texture about like a part cast in fine-grained sand, applies nicely and blends well. And being H-D, you may arguably find a better can of spray paint, but you'll be hard pressed to pay more for it!
And regarding books, I make use of the searchability of the Internet all the time, but find much more enjoyment in perusing a book. Especially an antique auto or motorcycle manual where I can tell by the greasy thumbprints that somebody else had faced the same jobs as myself, and (hopefully) found the needed guidance there.
Having started my work life at twelve years old in 1979, cutting electric motor commutators on an old manual lathe, I grew up with blue line prints, and vellum. Although I've studied CAD, and spent my last year as a draughtsman using CadKey v.6 (a while ago!), I guess I was introduced to them too late in life for solid models and computer fonts to stir my soul.
Really enjoyed this particular serving of meatloaf; amazing how precise some of that old school equipment was!
I would be interested in one of those little surface plates.
Not sure about the color for the Master Square..
But the mini surface plates are cute, would love to get one
Very tasty Tom, the B&S is Looking good!
ATB, Robin
ROBRENZ are you still posting videos?
As soon as I saw the mini surface plates I thought of your kelvin clip series. They're perfect for scraping parts that tiny flat!
Tom, great meatloaf episode; good stuff all around. First, yeah I’d be interested in a mini surface plate. How do I go about signing up for it? Second: books are the way to go if you are serious. Internet is great but books make the information your own. Third, as a diemaker, two particular surface grinders have been my favorites: the Taft Pierce you happen to have in your shop right now, and that particular B&S hydraulic 6x18 you show in this video. I do a lot of finished die work on both. Many memories. Keep it up!
This is probably too little too late, but I would be interested in surface plate from your second run. Thanks for the great videos.
Hey Tom, I'm interested in buy one of those mini surface plate when you have the next batch in.
Aren't there any larhe chucks with both runnout and planar compensation?
Maybe you should make one?
Thanks for sharing!
Would greatly appreciate info in how to get one of those scale surface plates. Thx Tom
I believe you set your degree then adjust minutes and seconds then reset the degree scale to your original degree alignment. Kind of the reverse of reading a vernier scale.
I think I have a copy of the Fundamentals of Engineering Drawing somewhere in my house, from my days as a Mechanical Engineering student in the late '60s and early '70s. Probably in a box that hasn't been opened in 25 years since my last move.
I'd go with french blue, as it will make dirt and dust stick out like a sore thumb! :-)
I still not understanding the mechanism behind the indexer and how the minutes and seconds wheels work.
If you attach a laser pointer perpendicular to the chuck, then you should be able to resolve its accuracy.
What ho young Tom,
Thinking of surface grinders, that thread grinding jig I showed you won an award at SMEE over the weekend. Shows how easily impressed some folks can be.:>)
As for colour, if it was in my engineerium it would have to be brown, so the rust didn't show.
BOGC and merry christmas
c
Really interested in one of the granite plates. Might need to have a bigger batch made.
Hey Tom, I would be interested in a mini surface plate next time you have a run of those.
where did you acquire the lube metering orifices
Put a laser pointer on the top of that second arc seconds dealie and have the wall as many feet away as possible... then turn that small dial and see if the laser dot moves on the wall.