Sometimes it's the details along the way: I made up a set of copper-pipe jaw shields for my (small) 4-jaw a while back and was having trouble with them springing out of place and generally not conforming well to the jaws. After seeing this I hit them with the propane and son-of-a-gun, a little light hammer-forming brought them into close-fitting, custom shape! That annealed copper is like a whole different material. Thanks Tom! :)
Making the purely precision pleasing to touch, and to the eye is an added benefit to the senses, and may engender more than pragmatic use to more frequent use, like that favorite bit of clothing we all favor over others in our wardrobe. A precision piece of art!!
I've got an excellent performing flycutter that uses the round tips. Learned something in this one that will help while using it when I want an inside radius between a vertical and horizontal surface and getting it without chatter. Thanks very much.
WOW... first time on your channel. This is awesome. I can learn so much from you. I’m new to machining, only about six months and I’m hooked at 59 years young. Tom K at Hilltop Machine said I should see your channel. Your newest sub. 👍Thanks for what you are sharing. Ron...
When you were using the boring bar to face the shoulder feeding in towards the center. That's a LOT safer than feeding out then cutting the shoulder after. I just learned a trick, thank you
I have a lot of drops that are around that size of 8620/ 9310//4140/ 4340/1045 great material for your project squareness...never thought of annealed copper shims. Thanks for the video!
VERY nice. Thank you for the wonderful explanation and demo. Now I want to turn some stuff too (ok, I always want to... but I feel the need for a radius turning like you did...) machining is so much FUN... - I'd call it precision art
Never one to miss an opportunity to be a putz I complained about not enough machining content and that I'd have to unsubscribe, waah, waah, waah and then...this. Such is life.
I am surprised you didnt leave a square transition to the shoulder and get an assortment of files and file the radius in with your head phones in! lol Good one Tom
The drilling portion of this with the big drill is a testament to how much movement you get out of a drilled hole, you can watch that big ass drill flex back and forth
Yeah, I was scared when I saw that. It's gotta put some stress on a tail stock to go that big almost immediately. Just me but I would've worked it up in more steps
there's a formula for your pilot hole, something like 1/3 the diameter of your big drill, more steps is more time and harder on the bits, as long as it's big enough for the flutes to engage
It's been 20 some years since I was a lathe operator at a metal spinning shop. I get homesick watching lathe operations on here. We had an old Italian lathe in our shop that had a saddle that moved the opposite way of any other lathe. To travel toward the head stock you turned clockwise. lol
As I watched your vid when you used the round insert I recall may times exactly what your talking about ... "chatter" at the shoulder ..... also it occurred to me that another approach may or may not be helpful .... Tubalcains "shear tool" approach ..... BUT .....create a tool holder that will allow the round insert to be angled .....this will allow you to have the full radius or angle it to create a shear tool affect, it seems this might help reduce chatter ..
Wanted to thank you for all those boring videos on accuracy . I've had this INCA planer/joiner for some 20 years and could never really get it to cut smoothly. If I was really lucky I could get a 90 degree corner. After watching your thinking through various problems (which started out with leveling a lathe) I started to apply such thoughts to other things like that (*^(*&%&^( INCA. I'm making a vibration isolator for a turn table for a friend of mine and needed accurate cutting of very dense wood. After staring at that INCA for a while, I put together a plan and it worked perfectly. I now have flat and parallel surfaces in wood. And now I know how to use that INCA and it turned out to be not that bad of an investment.
@ Oxtoolco I've notice here and in a lot of other video's. As a drill enters a work piece it shifts slightly to one side or another (5:10 ish) Is that just and indication of the drill finding center? it seems to me if there is a shift the tailstock or something isn't quite lines up correctly? am I just overthinking this or is there something else going on? WOW the large drill bit is looking like a piece of wet spaghetti.
I think in this case, the surface of the drill's cutting edge is not sliding smoothly across the surface. The work piece is giving up little bits of metal in fits and chunks. The drill has to flex to compensate.
To use copper tubes between jaw and work is a great idea. However I always used sudden cooling to make copper for gaskets. Are there different coppers requiring different heat treatments? Thanks, interesting video.
If you are annealing copper by heating to about 400 C or so, it doesn't require quenching (rapid cooling). I just usually dunk it in water so I don't burn my fingers while waiting for it to cool :)
Do the pieces that you're measuring and the instrument have to be clamped down to the surface plate, because unless I'm misunderstanding something if you bump it a little bit you have to start the sweeping again?
When your working on the surface plate not much is bolted down anyway. You take multiple readings and move carefully. No worse than sweeping a surface with a surface gage using a sensitive indicator. Cheers. Tom
Hey Tom, great video as always! Question: Shouldn't the indicator mount be keyed onto the vertical post of the squareness comparator? If you inadvertently rotate the indicator around the post slightly, won't that cause a false indication of out of squareness? If the indicator mount was keyed to the comparator shaft, then you would rotate the entire comparator on its base to find the highest reading; then you would slide the indicator up and down, relying on the weight of the entire squareness comparator to prevent any rotation.
Hi Joe. The idea is to sweep horizontally with the traveling part and leave the base stationary. You are not trying to track a perfectly straight line vertically. Hope that makes sense. Cheers. Tom
HEY TOM ! You should be able to drill 1 1/2" in your lathe without the need for a pilot hole. I've drilled diameter 75mm into bisalloy & mild steel without using a pilot in a radial arm drill & 2"-2 1/2" in the lathe with the drill properly sharpened.The drill web needs to be sharpened to a point much like a spade drill. It is easy to do even with a small type pedestal grinder, a boss I had years ago showed me howto sharpen larger drills to do this Flooded with coolant at low RPM so there's no mess.
Nice...a little slow in your feeds ...especially in your first roughing cuts...why copper used on hot rolled surface..I'm for getting the job done lol.? Hint...you can quench copper in water to prevent oxidation/scaling=speed...no need cleaning.
A malleable surface improves your grip on irregular surfaces and aids in bumping short stock into rough alignment without resorting to extreme clamping forces.
Hi I wondered too :-) Wikipedia, and other sites, have a nice explanation and even adds some uncertainty to keep it interesting. In a nutshell it means something like: "all done and that was easy". Comes from Arthur Balfour getting a cushy political gig in England many years ago. Many thought he got it because his "Uncle Bob" was the Prime Minister!! vic
A clever design.........but too big for the average user.........perhaps a smaller one would still do the trick using some linear rail for the vertical column.
The 8620 alloy steel Tom used is fully heat treatable. Tom has a connection to a professional heat treating service. He'll grind the part, after hardening and tempering, "dead nuts".
Have you ever noticed that you have a nervous habit of starting 75% of your sentences with the word "So"? I'm not sure why you have picked up this habit as you're a very effective speaker in general. You communicate your thoughts well and help us understand a lot. Just an observation.
Did you have the volume turned on? He specifically said, "... You can see it vibrating there." The but was wiggling/vibrating before it was guilty engaged in the cut. That's why you don't use a drill for the finish diameter or for any hole that needs to be even the slightest bit accurate.
Eli Douek That is the drill. Cutting forces on large twist drills tend to try to un twist the drill causing the flutes to cut at different rates, even factory sharpened drills. This flexing and pulling tends to stabilize after the drill margins come into engagement.
Showing the finished part at the beginning is a great idea. It helps us understand where we are going as you make the part. Please keep doing that.
Sometimes it's the details along the way: I made up a set of copper-pipe jaw shields for my (small) 4-jaw a while back and was having trouble with them springing out of place and generally not conforming well to the jaws. After seeing this I hit them with the propane and son-of-a-gun, a little light hammer-forming brought them into close-fitting, custom shape! That annealed copper is like a whole different material. Thanks Tom! :)
Must be a cool feeling to know you can create just about anything you want. 👍
Clever shot of the drill breaking through the backside of that chunk of steel. I've never seen that view before. Very cool.
A big, heavy, horking tool to do a delicate task, yet stay true. Love the tool makers task. Thank you Tom.
Making the purely precision pleasing to touch, and to the eye is an added benefit to the senses, and may engender more than pragmatic use to more frequent use, like that favorite bit of clothing we all favor over others in our wardrobe. A precision piece of art!!
SUPER cool. What a great tool and loved the radius cutting. Thank you!!
Oh, how I've missed your lathe and mill work. I hung onto every minute of it.
Nice close up photography! Man that Drill was moving!!
I've got an excellent performing flycutter that uses the round tips. Learned something in this one that will help while using it when I want an inside radius between a vertical and horizontal surface and getting it without chatter. Thanks very much.
Nice touch on the radius to avoid chatter, well done. Thanks for the video.
👍really like the grip design. reeks of craftsmanship as always with you.
Gone through all the vids so far. Much improved! At this point a real step above anything else on here.
WOW... first time on your channel. This is awesome. I can learn so much from you. I’m new to machining, only about six months and I’m hooked at 59 years young. Tom K at Hilltop Machine said I should see your channel. Your newest sub. 👍Thanks for what you are sharing. Ron...
When you were using the boring bar to face the shoulder feeding in towards the center. That's a LOT safer than feeding out then cutting the shoulder after. I just learned a trick, thank you
Wow!!! Once again Tom, you got me, in all my years I never saw/did that one!
I have a lot of drops that are around that size of 8620/ 9310//4140/ 4340/1045 great material for your project squareness...never thought of annealed copper shims. Thanks for the video!
Great work, really nice close up shots Tom, thanks for sharing!
Wow Tom, that was pretty slick on the 4 jaw!!!!!
Loving the close up shots and camera work. Looking forward to part 2. -Bruce
Good close up shot's and camera work & looking for part 2........T Q ................ Srihari
Love these videos , not seen the trick with copper tube before
Anyone can buy copper tube. Sourcing any other copper stock is more tricky.
By traveling I thought you meant it was ready to travel here to do some HBM squareness with the world testing. :-)
Looking good Tom! Waiting for part 2
ATB, Robin
VERY nice. Thank you for the wonderful explanation and demo. Now I want to turn some stuff too (ok, I always want to... but I feel the need for a radius turning like you did...) machining is so much FUN... - I'd call it precision art
Never one to miss an opportunity to be a putz I complained about not enough machining content and that I'd have to unsubscribe, waah, waah, waah and then...this. Such is life.
Great video, got me following along waiting for the next installment.
Nice work as always Tom. Going to be a cool tool.
Great video. Thanks Tom.
I am surprised you didnt leave a square transition to the shoulder and get an assortment of files and file the radius in with your head phones in! lol Good one Tom
Nice job Tom.
Thanks Mr. Wizzard !!! Thats What i Call A Stand-Up Project ! Really Cool .
I love the Traveling Squareness Idea . Great Video , excellent camera work.
Like they say in Italy -- asta la pasta -- Baby
Love those big twist drill chips. They always remind me of Port Jackson Shark eggs
hey tom, it's me; the guy the complained about the aliasing
it's gone now and it looks fantastic
The drilling portion of this with the big drill is a testament to how much movement you get out of a drilled hole, you can watch that big ass drill flex back and forth
Yeah she was a wiggling.
Yeah, I was scared when I saw that. It's gotta put some stress on a tail stock to go that big almost immediately. Just me but I would've worked it up in more steps
there's a formula for your pilot hole, something like 1/3 the diameter of your big drill, more steps is more time and harder on the bits, as long as it's big enough for the flutes to engage
understood. The chips are pretty awesome once he gets going
It's been 20 some years since I was a lathe operator at a metal spinning shop. I get homesick watching lathe operations on here. We had an old Italian lathe in our shop that had a saddle that moved the opposite way of any other lathe. To travel toward the head stock you turned clockwise. lol
As I watched your vid when you used the round insert I recall may times exactly what your talking about ... "chatter" at the shoulder ..... also it occurred to me that another approach may or may not be helpful .... Tubalcains "shear tool" approach ..... BUT .....create a tool holder that will allow the round insert to be angled .....this will allow you to have the full radius or angle it to create a shear tool affect, it seems this might help reduce chatter ..
Wanted to thank you for all those boring videos on accuracy . I've had this INCA planer/joiner for some 20 years and could never really get it to cut smoothly. If I was really lucky I could get a 90 degree corner. After watching your thinking through various problems (which started out with leveling a lathe) I started to apply such thoughts to other things like that (*^(*&%&^( INCA. I'm making a vibration isolator for a turn table for a friend of mine and needed accurate cutting of very dense wood. After staring at that INCA for a while, I put together a plan and it worked perfectly. I now have flat and parallel surfaces in wood. And now I know how to use that INCA and it turned out to be not that bad of an investment.
Four jaw dead soft copper inserts will probably come in handy it's one of those i know what I got for that kinda thing good work good to see ya
Thanks Tom - great video. Cheers!
@ Oxtoolco I've notice here and in a lot of other video's. As a drill enters a work piece it shifts slightly to one side or another (5:10 ish) Is that just and indication of the drill finding center? it seems to me if there is a shift the tailstock or something isn't quite lines up correctly? am I just overthinking this or is there something else going on?
WOW the large drill bit is looking like a piece of wet spaghetti.
I also need an answer to that question :)
I think in this case, the surface of the drill's cutting edge is not sliding smoothly across the surface. The work piece is giving up little bits of metal in fits and chunks. The drill has to flex to compensate.
Great Stuff Tom!!!
To use copper tubes between jaw and work is a great idea. However I always used sudden cooling to make copper for gaskets. Are there different coppers requiring different heat treatments? Thanks, interesting video.
If you are annealing copper by heating to about 400 C or so, it doesn't require quenching (rapid cooling). I just usually dunk it in water so I don't burn my fingers while waiting for it to cool :)
It’s gorgeous.
Most excellent.
The sisterhood of the traveling squareness comparator
Do the pieces that you're measuring and the instrument have to be clamped down to the surface plate, because unless I'm misunderstanding something if you bump it a little bit you have to start the sweeping again?
When your working on the surface plate not much is bolted down anyway. You take multiple readings and move carefully. No worse than sweeping a surface with a surface gage using a sensitive indicator. Cheers. Tom
Hey Tom, great video as always!
Question: Shouldn't the indicator mount be keyed onto the vertical post of the squareness comparator?
If you inadvertently rotate the indicator around the post slightly, won't that cause a false indication of out of squareness?
If the indicator mount was keyed to the comparator shaft, then you would rotate the entire comparator on its base to find the highest reading; then you would slide the indicator up and down, relying on the weight of the entire squareness comparator to prevent any rotation.
Hi Joe. The idea is to sweep horizontally with the traveling part and leave the base stationary. You are not trying to track a perfectly straight line vertically. Hope that makes sense. Cheers. Tom
Enjoyed Tom , Thanks man ! great work..
"no need to go Abom on this" :-) :-)
HEY TOM ! You should be able to drill 1 1/2" in your lathe without the need for a pilot hole. I've drilled diameter 75mm into bisalloy & mild steel without using a pilot in a radial arm drill & 2"-2 1/2" in the lathe with the drill properly sharpened.The drill web needs to be sharpened to a point much like a spade drill. It is easy to do even with a small type pedestal grinder, a boss I had years ago showed me howto sharpen larger drills to do this Flooded with coolant at low RPM so there's no mess.
Hey Peter, I don't have the horsepower in my arms any more. Cheers. Tom
It's not very kind to the tailstock quill nut either
Whatever happened to the etching press?
I was just going to ask the same question.
Wife is prolly happy.
I think he only works on it when the wife is mad at him.
Nice...a little slow in your feeds ...especially in your first roughing cuts...why copper used on hot rolled surface..I'm for getting the job done lol.? Hint...you can quench copper in water to prevent oxidation/scaling=speed...no need cleaning.
its good to see chips again. more!
inspired me ive had a 8" cutoff fot 15 yrs. use it for boring weight on xslide
Was expecting a track off side two of Dylan's Nashville Skyline :)
very cool , thanks for the video,,
Who doesn't love large drills and lathes. Its nearly as exciting as boring.
What is the point of the copper pieces when you hold hot rolled stock ?
Minimise wear on chuck due to oxide coating?
I wondered the same thing and that makes sense. I didn't think there was a concern of marring the surface of the rough stock piece.
Probably also to increase the holding area of the chuck jaws against the irregular surface.
A malleable surface improves your grip on irregular surfaces and aids in bumping short stock into rough alignment without resorting to extreme clamping forces.
It helps with the grip.
7:15 awesome cam shot
"Bob's your uncle", i love that expression, even though i have no idea what it means LOL
Hi I wondered too :-) Wikipedia, and other sites, have a nice explanation and even adds some uncertainty to keep it interesting. In a nutshell it means something like: "all done and that was easy". Comes from Arthur Balfour getting a cushy political gig in England many years ago. Many thought he got it because his "Uncle Bob" was the Prime Minister!!
vic
always a pleasure :)
A clever design.........but too big for the average user.........perhaps a smaller one would still do the trick using some linear rail for the vertical column.
for some reason I thought that the base would have been made of granite. Big chunk with a nice bore hole to take the shaft.
When you mentioned hardening, Do you mean case hardening?
The 8620 alloy steel Tom used is fully heat treatable. Tom has a connection to a professional heat treating service. He'll grind the part, after hardening and tempering, "dead nuts".
_"I don't want to go Abom"_ lol!
The shot at 7:15 is quite hard on the eyes.
New camera Tom??
Have you ever noticed that you have a nervous habit of starting 75% of your sentences with the word "So"? I'm not sure why you have picked up this habit as you're a very effective speaker in general. You communicate your thoughts well and help us understand a lot. Just an observation.
Gee Thanks for bringing that up, now I will be aware of it so it can bother me too.
Your center looks like it walked, which carried through the whole drill cycle.
Doesn't matter even if it did.
Just for reference to others, this was in Monday Meatloaf 116 P2. ruclips.net/video/4WQqHbjemSY/видео.html
i turn stuff just to watch the chips and smoke all the time :)
What insert type are you using in that boring bar? Looks like a positive rake trigon, which I didn't know existed.
Iscar WNMG with a PP chipbreaker. Makes it positive but with six cutting edges. Cheers. Tom
Or I know how to make a copper soft jaw. Sweet!
why 8620?
If I'm not wrong, Tom has talked about this stuff before, and just seems to like it as a tough general purpose material
@6:30 That's what she said. Sorry.
Woody Woodrow
What did you use to pack the air bearing?
6:29 is all that wiggling in the drill actually the drill or is it the camera being affected by the vibrations?
Did you have the volume turned on? He specifically said, "... You can see it vibrating there." The but was wiggling/vibrating before it was guilty engaged in the cut. That's why you don't use a drill for the finish diameter or for any hole that needs to be even the slightest bit accurate.
Eli Douek That is the drill. Cutting forces on large twist drills tend to try to un twist the drill causing the flutes to cut at different rates, even factory sharpened drills. This flexing and pulling tends to stabilize after the drill margins come into engagement.
One reason why that large drill wanders around is because of the pilot hole, as in it has no point to center to until it is fully in the material.
Tom,