Terrific video. I already applied 2 coats of poly with a "poly" brush and was not satisfied. Using the foam brush was great. It gave me the finish that I wanted. Also, the advice to go slowly was all important. While it is tedious to do, it ultimately is a time saver because it truly creates fewer bubbles. Thanks for making this video.
Thank you for this tutorial! I was sure my project would turn out terrible because of the streaks from the poly. I could t figure it out. But now!! 😍😍 My table looks amazing because I slowed down the brush and took my time. And I didn’t stop for holidays. ☺️
It's been a bit frustrating looking for a video that aligned with exactly what I was doing (oil based poly, foam brush, etc), a project that requires both sides to be done... I'm on coat 3 of a slab and now I fully understand I've been brushing too fast!
Dude, you're my hero. I've seen so many different videos that do things differently and that non of those didn't work out for me. I messed up mu nice butcher block countertop ao bad. And I found this video which is freaking awesome. I just applied the final coat amd hope it dries well. Dude my love to ya❤. The best video!
He said he is using Miniwax Polyurethane Quick dry. I would suggest staying away from quick dry, more bubbles work their way out the slower it drys. I use Verathane brand from Home Depot, oil base, stay away from water for quality finishes. Thats a 3” foam brush I believe, You could go to a 4” as i do. Good technique he is using. I buy a spray can polyurethane at Home Depot for the last coat, after 3-4 coats. Makes for a durable and perfect finish. Sand with a 220 grit on first few coats, and 320 grit sandpaper before the last coat for a smooth finish, no sanding needed on the last. Clean dust with tack cloth after sanding. If not smooth enough on last coat, look up video for using steel wool to smooth it out. Other meathods include wipe on with 1/2 Polyurethane and 1/2 mineral spirits, also youtube that process. I use a combination of meathods, using this with the foam brush for the first 2 coats, wipe on 1/2 and 1/2 for the 3rd and 4th, and spray can polyurethane for last coat, all oil base. I refinish table tops and have a flawless finish. But this is a Satin Finish. For gloss, look up videos, I have had mixed results, but this meathod with the foam brush and then a spray can finish has been good for me. Good luck! We all have different processes, altitudes and humidity play a part. I work in California, Nevada, and Utah. Fairly dry, very little humidity, unless its raining of course...
Maybe not the most exciting video, but very informative. I appreciate that you covered a lot of little process details that seem to get overlooked in a lot of online instructional content. Thanks for the confidence boost going into my next finish project.
When working with a flat piece on a horizontal surface you can just pour that stuff on there and spread it out with a wide foam brush. Then I start the next piece by doing the edges with what's left on the brush. It just takes some getting used to when figuring how much to pour on the piece. Sand away all bubbles with 320 grit and apply second coat.(pour a little less this time )That's how I did my stair tread's and they look beautiful.
Very expert technique you got there. Good prep is key. I put a Jet Tools air filtration unit in my shop. After making a crapload of sawdust I vacuum the shop thoroughly then run the machine overnight. The next day I brush/blow (compressed air) any dust off all my pieces outside. At that point the air in my shop is pretty much dust free and I can start staining and clear coating (my least favorite part of being a cabinetmaker). I've had good results with using a foam roller for poly as well as spraying.
I might have been distracted but I suspect the term "holiday" refers to an area that doesn't get proper coverage. I only caught that term right away because I used to work at a pipe coating company and the term was used for any part of the coating that had a hole in it.
Thanks for the excellent demo. My only criticism: the Sam Adams was way too close to the edge of the table. My heart was in my throat every time you videotaped past the bottle. 😅
He said in the beginning. Miniwax Polyurethane Quick dry. I would suggest staying away from quick dry, more bubbles work their way out the slower it drys. Thats a 3” foam brush. You could go to a 4”, i do. Good technique he is using. I buy a spray can polyurethane at Home Depot for the last coat, after 3-4 coats. Makes for a durable and perfect finish. Sand with a 220-320 grit sandpaper between coats for a smooth finish, no sanding needed on the last. Clean dust with tack cloth after sanding. If not smooth enough on last coat, look up video for using steel wool to smooth it out.
@@youhaveinfinitevalue5755 Stay away from the "quick dry", right! He did say his shop's at 65°. I do mine under a carport. From April thru sometimes as late as October 65° is out of the question here in Mississippi. I've noticed that the regular dry time clear finishes actually dry thoroughly faster than the quick dry ones. You find that out when you sand. If there's no powder from sanding then it's not dry, therefore not ready for sanding. I prefer a 320 grit for sanding between coats, but if it's on heavy then the 220 grit. MAKE SURE that the sandpaper is for wood, not black emery cloth that's for metal. And go with the 4 ought fine steel wool (marked XXXX) for sanding before the final coat. Also I prefer China bristle paint brushes or even the throw-away brushes over the foam brushes.
Do you have any photos of the lower right corner after it was completed, and got rid of all those surfaces blemishes. And what you had to do to eliminate them.
Storing oil-based finishes and varnish can be a problem. The leftovers skin over or thicken and become useless. Bloxygen is the fix! Use this inert gas and you can store leftovers for years. See www.bloxygen.com for more. Also see Bloxygen Videos at ruclips.net/video/zHMdkZcqSUY/видео.html or our 60 Second Storage Tip at ruclips.net/video/1nOINqPCt7Q/видео.html. Works every time.
Very useful information, about the most useful I've found so far. But, what about unavoidable vertical surfaces, like what I've been doing lately refinishing something like a box that is already assembled? Do you finish each face of the box one at a time?
How did you do the sanding? Did you do it dry, or wet? How did you wipe up the dust after sanding? Vacuum, rag and water, rag and mineral spirits, etc.? Thanks!
nice job good info i to have used this varinsh about 30+ years its good stuff i still use a brush but the foam one does a nice job thumbs down guys lets see you paint some thing
+Frank Diaz It is not the same as it used to be IMO. The "everything causes cancer in California" regulations have changed the formula. It lays down weird. Remember Varathane? That was the best stuff back in the day.
I am going to be using a 98" x 25" piece of butcher block (from home depot) and using it as a desk top. It has already been sanded and such, but am not sure what type of sealant I should use. A friend said I can apply a clear lacquer on it and others have said I can use Danish Oil. I am not sure what to use. I do not plan on eating or drinking at the desk, so I am not needing armor like protection for it, I am just looking for something that I do not have to treat repeatedly after I start using it. I am leaning towards brushing in the lacquer (using the technique shown in this video), but the easy of applying Danish Oil is very appealing. Anyone have any suggestions? I am totally new at this.
I just built a 10' farmhouse table. Stain is complete. do you recommend this way of applying the poly or is the table too big? I'm afraid of brush marks and noticeable overlap. I appreciate your opinion. Thank You.
+Joe Najor Use a white foam roller rated for oil base to put the poly on the table and then use a wide foam or good quality bristle brush to tip off. I avoid cheap bristle brushes because they shed. You can actually pour the poly onto the middle of the table right out of the can and move it around with the roller. The roller makes a ton of bubbles but makes sure the material is spread evenly...the brush action (light almost perpendicular even strokes from end to end) will pop the bubbles and lay it down. Practice that technique on scrap first.
I've stripped, sanded, and stained a small table with very detailed chiseling on about the top 4 inches of the vertical side paneling on each side below the top. How do you recommend getting a nice poly finish in those details? I've watched a bunch of videos on poly application, and like this one they all use perfectly flat boards or tabletops for demonstration! Thanks for your time.
I get "dry spots' using poly on table tops. I can't think of any other way to describe it. There are areas where the shine is noticeably dull and no amount of extra stain or poly brings the shine to match the rest of the top.
use naptha 50/50 for first coat, 75/25 (thicker) for next coats. The thicker the poly, the more you can put on on a single coat and the more likely you are to get streaks.
Ha, You had a thumbs down already, I counter acted it with a thumbs up. What do you figure that person came here to see? Or before I saw the notification, was there a misleading thumbnail of a naked chick? Perhaps it was previously titled "They were amazed when she showed them this one simple trick...?" ;-)
+JimsEquipmentShed He's a retread that subs my channel so he can thumb down every video I upload. Thanks to YT anonymity no one will ever know who he is...and I have a feeling we're not missing much.
Mountain Storm One of the other RUclipsrs just quit his channel over crap like that. "Geek to freak landscaping" Pretty cool guy, butt e couldn't handle the trolls, and they were starting to spill over into real life. Kinda scary.
Mountain Storm Well, at least think about it. Maybe once the trolls finally win, they will go away forever, and never bother anyone again! Do it for the whole of youtube man! (Nah, it wouldn't change a damn thing, they would just move on to the next victim.)
Probably the easiest to follow video I have seen in a long time. Thanks for keeping it simple
Terrific video. I already applied 2 coats of poly with a "poly" brush and was not satisfied. Using the foam brush was great. It gave me the finish that I wanted. Also, the advice to go slowly was all important. While it is tedious to do, it ultimately is a time saver because it truly creates fewer bubbles. Thanks for making this video.
This is as soothing as a Bob Ross video
This is a very elaborate Samuel Adams commercial
This is amazing! I have seen so many horrible advice videos about poly technique. This is by far the best one I have seen! Thank you!
Thank you for this tutorial! I was sure my project would turn out terrible because of the streaks from the poly. I could t figure it out. But now!! 😍😍 My table looks amazing because I slowed down the brush and took my time. And I didn’t stop for holidays. ☺️
It's been a bit frustrating looking for a video that aligned with exactly what I was doing (oil based poly, foam brush, etc), a project that requires both sides to be done... I'm on coat 3 of a slab and now I fully understand I've been brushing too fast!
Dude, you're my hero. I've seen so many different videos that do things differently and that non of those didn't work out for me. I messed up mu nice butcher block countertop ao bad. And I found this video which is freaking awesome. I just applied the final coat amd hope it dries well. Dude my love to ya❤. The best video!
He said he is using Miniwax Polyurethane Quick dry. I would suggest staying away from quick dry, more bubbles work their way out the slower it drys. I use Verathane brand from Home Depot, oil base, stay away from water for quality finishes. Thats a 3” foam brush I believe, You could go to a 4” as i do. Good technique he is using. I buy a spray can polyurethane at Home Depot for the last coat, after 3-4 coats. Makes for a durable and perfect finish. Sand with a 220 grit on first few coats, and 320 grit sandpaper before the last coat for a smooth finish, no sanding needed on the last. Clean dust with tack cloth after sanding. If not smooth enough on last coat, look up video for using steel wool to smooth it out. Other meathods include wipe on with 1/2 Polyurethane and 1/2 mineral spirits, also youtube that process. I use a combination of meathods, using this with the foam brush for the first 2 coats, wipe on 1/2 and 1/2 for the 3rd and 4th, and spray can polyurethane for last coat, all oil base. I refinish table tops and have a flawless finish. But this is a Satin Finish. For gloss, look up videos, I have had mixed results, but this meathod with the foam brush and then a spray can finish has been good for me. Good luck! We all have different processes, altitudes and humidity play a part. I work in California, Nevada, and Utah. Fairly dry, very little humidity, unless its raining of course...
The nail trick to support the piece.....simply brilliant!
I could watch this all day. Thank you for the tips!
Maybe not the most exciting video, but very informative. I appreciate that you covered a lot of little process details that seem to get overlooked in a lot of online instructional content. Thanks for the confidence boost going into my next finish project.
Great work, im really inexperienced with oil varnish and it’s really helpful to watch a pro do it, thanks 🙏
You kinda remind me of the Bob Ross of varnish. Love your presentation style and you have lots of good information. "Be well my friend."
You are a true artisan sir. Thank you.
I really like the nail idea. You were able to do both sides without messing up the finish. Awesome Job!
something calming about watching this.
When working with a flat piece on a horizontal surface you can just pour that stuff on there and spread it out with a wide foam brush. Then I start the next piece by doing the edges with what's left on the brush. It just takes some getting used to when figuring how much to pour on the piece. Sand away all bubbles with 320 grit and apply second coat.(pour a little less this time )That's how I did my stair tread's and they look beautiful.
I did my whole bedroom set it took me 37 days lol. Joke good job sir 👍🏻
😂😂😂🤣😅
Very expert technique you got there. Good prep is key. I put a Jet Tools air filtration unit in my shop. After making a crapload of sawdust I vacuum the shop thoroughly then run the machine overnight. The next day I brush/blow (compressed air) any dust off all my pieces outside. At that point the air in my shop is pretty much dust free and I can start staining and clear coating (my least favorite part of being a cabinetmaker). I've had good results with using a foam roller for poly as well as spraying.
most important thing for me was the nail idea,,, always used to hang the work ,, your idea is good
I might have been distracted but I suspect the term "holiday" refers to an area that doesn't get proper coverage. I only caught that term right away because I used to work at a pipe coating company and the term was used for any part of the coating that had a hole in it.
I like stroking in the shop too
This is a great video. Thanks for sharing tips and tricks.
Thanks for the excellent demo. My only criticism: the Sam Adams was way too close to the edge of the table. My heart was in my throat every time you videotaped past the bottle. 😅
NO wonder i have been getting lines in my finish I've been applying like i would paint fast and overlapping.
Yes i was doing the same, we are so lucky that this pro is showing us the way 👌
Thanks. It would be even more helpful to know the exact products you used: brush/brand where you bought it and the poly particulars.
He said in the beginning. Miniwax Polyurethane Quick dry. I would suggest staying away from quick dry, more bubbles work their way out the slower it drys. Thats a 3” foam brush. You could go to a 4”, i do. Good technique he is using. I buy a spray can polyurethane at Home Depot for the last coat, after 3-4 coats. Makes for a durable and perfect finish. Sand with a 220-320 grit sandpaper between coats for a smooth finish, no sanding needed on the last. Clean dust with tack cloth after sanding. If not smooth enough on last coat, look up video for using steel wool to smooth it out.
@@youhaveinfinitevalue5755 Stay away from the "quick dry", right! He did say his shop's at 65°. I do mine under a carport. From April thru sometimes as late as October 65° is out of the question here in Mississippi.
I've noticed that the regular dry time clear finishes actually dry thoroughly faster than the quick dry ones. You find that out when you sand. If there's no powder from sanding then it's not dry, therefore not ready for sanding.
I prefer a 320 grit for sanding between coats, but if it's on heavy then the 220 grit. MAKE SURE that the sandpaper is for wood, not black emery cloth that's for metal. And go with the 4 ought fine steel wool (marked XXXX) for sanding before the final coat. Also I prefer China bristle paint brushes or even the throw-away brushes over the foam brushes.
This is so relaxing to watch
Beautiful
Do you have any photos of the lower right corner after it was completed, and got rid of all those surfaces blemishes. And what you had to do to eliminate them.
Nice video. New support from philippine all the way
Thank you for the informative video.
Storing oil-based finishes and varnish can be a problem. The leftovers skin over or thicken and become useless. Bloxygen is the fix! Use this inert gas and you can store leftovers for years.
See www.bloxygen.com for more. Also see Bloxygen Videos at ruclips.net/video/zHMdkZcqSUY/видео.html or our 60 Second Storage Tip at ruclips.net/video/1nOINqPCt7Q/видео.html. Works every time.
Very useful information, about the most useful I've found so far. But, what about unavoidable vertical surfaces, like what I've been doing lately refinishing something like a box that is already assembled? Do you finish each face of the box one at a time?
Master at work.
Do you sand between coats?
How did you do the sanding? Did you do it dry, or wet? How did you wipe up the dust after sanding? Vacuum, rag and water, rag and mineral spirits, etc.? Thanks!
nice job good info i to have used this varinsh about 30+ years its good stuff i still use a brush but the foam one does a nice job thumbs down guys lets see you paint some thing
+Frank Diaz It is not the same as it used to be IMO. The "everything causes cancer in California" regulations have changed the formula. It lays down weird. Remember Varathane? That was the best stuff back in the day.
I am going to be using a 98" x 25" piece of butcher block (from home depot) and using it as a desk top. It has already been sanded and such, but am not sure what type of sealant I should use. A friend said I can apply a clear lacquer on it and others have said I can use Danish Oil. I am not sure what to use. I do not plan on eating or drinking at the desk, so I am not needing armor like protection for it, I am just looking for something that I do not have to treat repeatedly after I start using it. I am leaning towards brushing in the lacquer (using the technique shown in this video), but the easy of applying Danish Oil is very appealing. Anyone have any suggestions? I am totally new at this.
I just built a 10' farmhouse table. Stain is complete. do you recommend this way of applying the poly or is the table too big? I'm afraid of brush marks and noticeable overlap. I appreciate your opinion. Thank You.
+Joe Najor Use a white foam roller rated for oil base to put the poly on the table and then use a wide foam or good quality bristle brush to tip off. I avoid cheap bristle brushes because they shed. You can actually pour the poly onto the middle of the table right out of the can and move it around with the roller. The roller makes a ton of bubbles but makes sure the material is spread evenly...the brush action (light almost perpendicular even strokes from end to end) will pop the bubbles and lay it down. Practice that technique on scrap first.
Thank You.
I've stripped, sanded, and stained a small table with very detailed chiseling on about the top 4 inches of the vertical side paneling on each side below the top. How do you recommend getting a nice poly finish in those details? I've watched a bunch of videos on poly application, and like this one they all use perfectly flat boards or tabletops for demonstration! Thanks for your time.
just buy the aerosol cans and spray it on. Start thin.
I get "dry spots' using poly on table tops. I can't think of any other way to describe it. There are areas where the shine is noticeably dull and no amount of extra stain or poly brings the shine to match the rest of the top.
Sounds like you need to sand down and use a grain filler. Oops, I'm a year late. Hope you got it working alright.
Rub out the finish with a synthetic scrubbing pad, all will match and shine then
Thats because you only do one coat. After three coats it will be nice
how manu coats of poly should I use .. I did one coat and it dried and it seems as if i never applied poly at all .. I used oil based ????
If you put it on like this man, which is thin and flat, you will need about 6 coats.
looking good
looks like shit
Charles it took you all day
Your watch said 11:44 and I believe I'm the 44th person to make a comment 😇
Carey Smith and your comment got 0 likes, which is exactly 44 likes away from 44 likes!
What's a holiday?
357lockdown a missed spot
I love holidays. Some of them however I have to work!
Did you thin down the polyurethane with mineral spirits? I've seen some tutorials that recommend that practice. What do you think?
Yea ive seen that aswell. 1 parts mineral spirits i think. Think coats are always better IMO.
use naptha 50/50 for first coat, 75/25 (thicker) for next coats. The thicker the poly, the more you can put on on a single coat and the more likely you are to get streaks.
screw poly, spar urethane all the way
Why?
Ha, You had a thumbs down already, I counter acted it with a thumbs up. What do you figure that person came here to see? Or before I saw the notification, was there a misleading thumbnail of a naked chick? Perhaps it was previously titled "They were amazed when she showed them this one simple trick...?" ;-)
+JimsEquipmentShed He's a retread that subs my channel so he can thumb down every video I upload. Thanks to YT anonymity no one will ever know who he is...and I have a feeling we're not missing much.
Mountain Storm
One of the other RUclipsrs just quit his channel over crap like that. "Geek to freak landscaping" Pretty cool guy, butt e couldn't handle the trolls, and they were starting to spill over into real life. Kinda scary.
+JimsEquipmentShed This hater has no "real life" so I am not too worried about it lmao
+JimsEquipmentShed Oh wow a second thumb down. I guess I should quite RUclips now.
Mountain Storm
Well, at least think about it.
Maybe once the trolls finally win, they will go away forever, and never bother anyone again! Do it for the whole of youtube man!
(Nah, it wouldn't change a damn thing, they would just move on to the next victim.)
one dislike for the sam adams at the end
The Dude
2 seconds after hearing him I went searching the comments ha
completely wrong, waste of time !
Boooooorrrrrrrrring!